EP3396037B1 - Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle raschel - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle raschel Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3396037B1
EP3396037B1 EP18168577.7A EP18168577A EP3396037B1 EP 3396037 B1 EP3396037 B1 EP 3396037B1 EP 18168577 A EP18168577 A EP 18168577A EP 3396037 B1 EP3396037 B1 EP 3396037B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
chain stitch
knitted fabric
raschel
knitting
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EP18168577.7A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3396037A1 (fr
Inventor
Yasuhiko Motoya
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Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
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Miyagi Lace Co Ltd
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Publication of EP3396037A1 publication Critical patent/EP3396037A1/fr
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04CBRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/02Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof made from particular materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B23/00Flat warp knitting machines
    • D04B23/16Flat warp knitting machines specially adapted for producing fabrics, or article blanks, of particular form or configuration
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a Raschel lace knitted fabric, which obtains the Raschel lace knitted fabric by executing a knitting step of knitting a Raschel knitted fabric by feeding a plurality of chain stitch yarns each forming a chain stitch weave extending in a knitting direction, a weft passage yarn which is knitted in a knitted fabric weft direction between a plurality of chain stitch weaves formed by the chain stitch yarns, and a thermal melting yarn exhibiting weldability by being partially or entirely melted by being heated, to a Raschel knitting machine, and a heat treatment step of heat-treating the Raschel knitted fabric which is obtained through the knitting step.
  • Patent Document 1 A method of manufacturing a Raschel lace knitted fabric which is difficult to be frayed, by executing such a knitting step and a heat treatment step of heat-treating a Raschel knitted fabric which is obtained through the knitting step, is disclosed in Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, Patent Document 3, and Patent Document 4.
  • a so-called covering yarn is used in the former three patent documents.
  • a chain stitch weave itself is knitted from two yarns.
  • the covering yarn is knitted into a scallop portion.
  • the covering yarn is composed of a core yarn having thermal meltability and a cover yarn (also referred to as a sheath yarn) which is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn, and after knitting, a lace knitted fabric is heated, whereby a part of the core yarn is melted, a melted material exudes from between the cover yarns, and the melted material is bonded to another yarn adjacent thereto and solidified.
  • a cover yarn also referred to as a sheath yarn
  • a lace knitted fabric is heated, whereby a part of the core yarn is melted, a melted material exudes from between the cover yarns, and the melted material is bonded to another yarn adjacent thereto and solidified.
  • Patent Document 2 is to obtain a Raschel stretch lace by using a covering yarn for a chain stitch yarn itself in order to eliminate inconsistency in aesthetic appearance and a feel in the scallop portion and the other portions in the technique disclosed in Patent Document 1.
  • Patent Document 3 a lace knitted fabric 120 after knitting is heated to a temperature lower than the melting temperature of a chain stitch yarns 21 and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of an insertion yarns 23, whereby a part of the insertion yarn 23 which is a covering yarn is partially melted (in Patent Document 3, this melting is referred to as dissolution). A part of the melted portion sticks to the chain stitch yarn 21 and a weft passage yarn 22. Accordingly, the connected state of each of the yarns 21 to 23 is maintained, and thus fraying of the yarn is prevented. Further, a welded portion 100 is formed by fracturing the insertion yarn 23.
  • each of the chain stitch weaves is composed of two yarns, in which one of the two yarns is a low melting point yarn, and the low melting point yarns are bonded to each other at a contact portion between the yarns in a state of forming the chain stitch weave.
  • the low melting point yarn nylon (specifically, nylon 6, nylon 66, or nylon 12) is adopted, and this yarn is a yarn which does not substantially have stretchability,
  • the core yarn of the covering yarn is a melting yarn, and therefore, it is necessary to expose the core yarn from between the cover yarns (the sheath yarns), and thus it is difficult to control tension during heat treatment.
  • Patent Document 3 a yarn having a relatively high melting point, such as nylon, is adopted for the chain stitch yarn, a relatively thin polyester-based thermoplastic polyurethane elastic yarn is inserted, as the insertion yarn, into the chain stitch weave which is formed by the chain stitch yarn, and the subsequent heat treatment step is executed.
  • Patent Document 3 it is described that in this way, it is possible to obtain a knitted lace (the Raschel lace knitted fabric in the present invention) in which it is possible to prevent fraying of a yarn.
  • bonding between the chain stitch yarn and the thermal welding yarn which configure the chain stitch weave did not occur sufficiently, and thus there was room for improvement.
  • the low melting point yarns which are yarns on one side of the yarns configuring the chain stitch weave are welded to each other at a contact portion where they come into contact with each other, and therefore, the knitted fabric itself becomes very rigid and is not practical. Further, nylon is adopted as the low melting point yarn, and therefore, from this point as well, the knitted fabric becomes hard and stretchability cannot be imparted to the knitted fabric.
  • a main object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing a Raschel lace knitted fabric, in which it is possible to effectively solve a fraying problem and it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric having stretchability.
  • a single chain stitch weave is knitted to be provided with both the first chain stitch portion and the second chain stitch portion.
  • the insertion yarn made of the same type of material as the meltable material forming the first chain stitch portion is inserted into the chain stitch weave.
  • the material of the first chain stitch portion is set to be thermally weldable polyurethane, and the material of the insertion yarn is set to be polyurethane.
  • the first chain stitch portion is used with the surface thereof exposed.
  • a Raschel knitted fabric (a raw fabric) is obtained in the knitting step, and the Raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step.
  • the heat treatment is performed for a treatment time in which the poorly-meltable yarn portion and the weft passage yarn remain as yarns, at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperatures of the poorly-meltable material and the weft passage yarn and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the meltable material.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric is in a tensioned state where tension is applied thereto. In this tensioned state, the close portion between the first chain stitch portion and the insertion yarn becomes a contact portion.
  • the first chain stitch portion configuring the chain stitch weave and the insertion yarn which is inserted into the chain stitch weave are composed of the same type of material and are in contact with each other at the contact portion in the tensioned state, and therefore, the first chain stitch portion and the insertion yarn are reliably melted and welded to each other. Further, a welded portion between the insertion yarn and the second chain stitch portion or the weft passage yarn is also formed. Further, polyurethane is used as the material configuring each of the first chain stitch portion and the insertion yarn, and therefore, stretchability can be imparted to the knitted fabric.
  • a portion in which the first chain stitch yarn is welded to the insertion yarn ca be reliably formed by knitting a Raschel knitted fabric by using the first chain stitch yarn, the second chain stitch yarn, and the insertion yarn, and performing appropriate heat treatment on the obtained Raschel knitted fabric. Further, by allowing the insertion yarn to remain in the heat treatment, it is possible to obtain a Raschel lace knitted fabric having stretchability.
  • the melting of the first chain stitch yarn is advanced, and the first chain stitch yarn can be favorably welded to the insertion yarn.
  • the first chain stitch yarn which is made of the meltable material and is a filament yarn and a second chain stitch yarn made of the poorly-meltable material are fed from different beams to individual reeds, and a first chain stitch portion and a second chain stitch portion are knitted in the same chain stitch weave by the first chain stitch yarn and the second chain stitch yarn, respectively, and
  • a single chain stitch weave is knitted with both the first chain stitch yarn which is a filament yarn and the second chain stitch yarn made of a poorly-meltable material.
  • the first chain stitch yarn is set to be a filament yarn, whereby it becomes possible to easily perform knitting.
  • the insertion yarn is inserted into the chain stitch weave.
  • the reason for using the individual reeds for the first chain stitch yarn and the second chain stitch yarn in the knitting of the knitted fabric is for favorably advancing knitting by independently performing the feeding of each yarn in a yarn feeding state of being suitable for each yarn, because these yarns have different physical properties.
  • a Raschel knitted fabric (a raw fabric) is obtained in the knitting step, and the Raschel knitted fabric is heat-treated in the heat treatment step.
  • the heat treatment is performed at a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperatures of the second chain stitch yarn and the weft passage yarn and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the first chain stitch yarn.
  • the treatment time is set to be a treatment time in which the second chain stitch yarn and the weft passage yarn remain as yarns.
  • the first chain stitch yarn and the insertion yarn be in a state of being favorably welded to each other at the contact portion, in a form in which the second chain stitch yarn and the weft passage yarn which configure the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric remain as yarns retaining the knitted fabric form.
  • the first chain stitch yarn is a yarn that is thinner than the insertion yarn, a surface of the insertion yarn is melted in the heat treatment in the heat treatment step, and the first chain stitch yarn is welded to the surface of the insertion yarn.
  • the melting of the first chain stitch yarn is advanced, and the first chain stitch yarn can be favorably welded to the insertion yarn.
  • the first chain stitch yarn is thinner than the insertion yarn.
  • a first reed to which the first chain stitch yarn is fed is located further on the front side than a second reed to which the second chain stitch yarn is fed, in a front-back direction of the Raschel knitting machine.
  • the second chain stitch yarn is a yarn which remains in the Raschel lace knitted fabric even after the heat treatment step, and is a relatively thick and highly visually recognizable yarn.
  • the first chain stitch yarn is relatively thin and poor in visibility, because the functional purpose thereof is welding.
  • the first reed is made to be on the machine front side with respect to the second reed, and therefore, for example, even if trouble such as cutting of the first chain stitch yarn which is relatively thin and poor in visibility occurs during knitting, a worker can easily perform the treatment of the first chain stitch yarn from the front of the Raschel knitting machine.
  • the second chain stitch yarn is a nylon yarn.
  • a thermally weldable polyurethane yarn is used as the first chain stitch yarn, whereby the welding of this yarn can be assured.
  • a fraying problem can be solved.
  • a nylon yarn is used for the second chain stitch yarn, whereby the Raschel lace knitted fabric can exhibit a beautiful aesthetic feeling of a lace pattern with a waist and can be made durable.
  • a first chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism which adjusts yarn feeding tension by adjusting a yarn feeding amount in a first chain stitch yarn feeding part from a beam for feeding the first chain stitch yarn to a first reed is provided, and a second chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism which adjusts yarn feeding tension by adjusting a yarn feeding amount in a second chain stitch yarn feeding part from a beam for feeding the second chain stitch yarn to a second reed is provided.
  • a yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism is provided in each of the yarn feeding parts of the first chain stitch yarn and the second chain stitch yarn, and by adjusting yarn feeding tension by adjusting a yarn feeding amount, it is possible to favorably knit the chain stitch weave composed of both the yarns by feeding the yarns having different physical properties to different reeds, respectively.
  • the first chain stitch yarn is a thermally weldable polyurethane yarn having a thickness in a range of 17 to 156 dtex and a melting temperature in a range of 150°C to 180°C
  • the second chain stitch yarn is a nylon yarn having a thickness in a range of 33 to 78 dtex and a melting temperature of 200°C
  • the insertion yarn is a polyurethane yarn having a thickness in a range of 156 to 310 dtex and a melting temperature in a range of 190°C to 220°C
  • the Raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step is heat-treated for a time in a range of 30 to 90 seconds at a temperature within a heating temperature range of 190°C or more and 200°C or less.
  • a portion in which the first chain stitch yarn is welded to the insertion yarn can be reliably formed by knitting a Raschel knitted fabric by using the first chain stitch yarn, the second chain stitch yarn, and the insertion yarn, and performing appropriate heat treatment on the obtained Raschel knitted fabric. Further, by allowing the insertion yarn to remain in the heat treatment, it is possible to obtain a Raschel lace knitted fabric having stretchability.
  • the patent also describes the case wherein, in the knitting step, a conjugate yarn having the meltable yarn portion and the poorly-meltable yarn portion in a single yarn is fed to a single reed to be knitted into a chain stitch weave having the first chain stitch portion and the second chain stitch portion, and the insertion yarn is inserted into the chain stitch weave, thereby knitting the Raschel knitted fabric.
  • a chain stitch weave is knitted using the conjugate yarn as a chain stitch yarn.
  • the conjugate yarn which is used here is a yarn in which a single yarn is configured to be provided with both a meltable yarn portion and a poorly-meltable yarn portion, and the meltable yarn portion is melted by the heat treatment which is executed in the heat treatment step, and exhibits weldability.
  • the first chain stitch portion of the conjugate yarn comes into contact with the insertion yarn at a loop portion of the chain stitch weave.
  • the first chain stitch portion and the insertion yarn of the chain stitch weave enter a state of being favorably welded to each other at the contact portion thereof, in a form in which the poorly-meltable yarn portion and the weft passage yarn which configure the basic structure of the lace knitted fabric remain as yarns retaining the knitted fabric form.
  • a chain stitch weave having the first chain stitch portion, the second chain stitch portion, and the insertion yarn is knitted to be provided on the entire Raschel knitted fabric.
  • a yarn different from the insertion yarn is inserted into the chain stitch weave which is formed by the first chain stitch portion and the second chain stitch portion, as a floating insertion yarn in a knitted form in which a part of the yarn floats on a back surface of the Raschel knitted fabric.
  • a cotton yarn, a rayon yarn, a polyester multifilament yarn, or the like is preferable.
  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a Raschel lace knitted fabric, and a manufacturing process thereof includes, as main steps, a knitting step s 1 and a heat treatment step s2 of heat-treating a Raschel knitted fabric 20 obtained through the knitting step s1, as shown in Fig. 8 .
  • the heat treatment step s2 is a step which is also referred to as a heat setting step.
  • a dyeing step s3 of dyeing a Raschel lace knitted fabric and a resin treatment and drying step s4 of performing resin treatment are executed, and in a cutting and sewing step s5, cutting and sewing are performed so as to satisfy the required use, whereby a product can be obtained.
  • An example of the product is woman's clothing.
  • a feature of the embodiment described below is that in the knitting step s1, the Raschel knitted fabric 20 is knitted by using a unique Raschel knitting machine 200 which is now improved by the inventors of the present invention and the Raschel knitted fabric 20 is subjected to at least heat treatment.
  • Fig. 1 shows one of a number of chain stitch weaves 19 configuring the Raschel knitted fabric 20 in this embodiment and shows a knitted state of main yarns (a first chain stitch yarn 21a, a second chain stitch yarn 21b, a weft passage yarn 22, and an insertion yarn 23 configuring the chain stitch weave 19.
  • main yarns a first chain stitch yarn 21a, a second chain stitch yarn 21b, a weft passage yarn 22, and an insertion yarn 23 configuring the chain stitch weave 19.
  • Fig. 2 is a diagram showing the relationship between a chain stitch yarn 21 configuring such a knitted fabric weave and the insertion yarn 23 forming a pair with the chain stitch yarn 21 in the present invention.
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the second chain stitch yarn 21b form the chain stitch weave 19 with the same operation, and therefore, in this drawing, one of them is omitted (the same in Fig. 7A ).
  • other yarns except for the chain stitch yarn 21 configuring the chain stitch weave 19 and the insertion yarn 23 which is inserted into the chain stitch weave 19 are also omitted.
  • Figs. 7A and 7B show the positional relationships between the respective yarns (the chain stitch yarn 21 and the insertion yarn 23) and a knitting needle 72 in a knitting operation, in a case of knitting the Raschel knitted fabric 20 having this chain stitch weave.
  • a lateral arrow corresponds to the movement of a reed (in the case of Fig. 7A , a ground reed 65, and in the case of Fig. 7B , a reed for an insertion yarn 61) with respect to each needle 72.
  • the respective chain stitch weaves 19 are knitted weaves that are independent of each other. However, in fact, a large number of weft passage yarns 22 (refer to Fig. 1 ) are knitted between the chain stitch weaves 19, so that the Raschel knitted fabric 20 is formed.
  • a feature of the Raschel knitted fabric 20 which is knitted through the knitting step s1 is that the chain stitch yarn 21 which forms the chain stitch weave 19 is composed of two types of yarns 21a and 21b and the insertion yarn 23 is inserted along a knitting direction C (a knitted fabric warp direction) into the chain stitch weave 19 formed in this way.
  • one yarn 21a of the chain stitch yarn 21 is set to be a thermal melting yarn made of a thermally meltable material.
  • the thermal melting yarn 21a is also referred to as a thermal welding yarn.
  • the yarn 21a has thermoplasticity and is melted by being heated to a temperature equal to or higher than a predetermined temperature to be welded to the insertion yarn 23 which is made of the same material as the thermal melting yarn 21a and is in contact with the thermal melting yarn 21a.
  • the other yarn 21b of the chain stitch yarn 21 is set to be a yarn made of a poorly-meltable material having a higher melting temperature than the meltable material.
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a becomes a first chain stitch yarn portion made of a meltable material
  • the second chain stitch yarn 21b becomes a second chain stitch yarn portion made of a poorly-meltable material
  • the two types of yarns 21a and 21b are independent yarns, and therefore, the surface of the thermal melting yarn 21a (the first chain stitch yarn portion) is naturally exposed.
  • Fig. 1 only one chain stitch weave 19 is shown. However, in this embodiment, all the chain stitch weaves 19 (all wales) forming the Raschel knitted fabric 20 have the above configuration.
  • the thermal melting yarn 21a configuring a part of the chain stitch weave 19 is welded to at least the insertion yarn 23, so that a Raschel lace product in which fraying does not occur regardless of a portion at which the Raschel lace knitted fabric is cut and a way of cutting the Raschel lace knitted fabric can be obtained.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 is configured to be provided with the plurality of chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b each configuring the chain stitch weave 19 extending in the knitting direction C, the weft passage yarn 22 which is knitted in a knitted fabric weft direction W between the chain stitch weaves 19 formed by the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b, and the insertion yarn 23 which is inserted into each course (actually into a loop-shaped portion r3 (a sinker loop) of the chain stitch weave 19) along the knitting direction C in the chain stitch weave 19.
  • the chain stitch yarn 21 which is a thermal melting yarn, and the second chain stitch yarn 21b having a higher melting temperature than the thermal melting yarn 21a are fed from different beams B1 and B2 into individual reeds 64a and 64b, whereby the chain stitch weave 19 is knitted.
  • the insertion yarn 23 is fed from a beam B4 to a reed for an insertion yarn 61 to be inserted into the chain stitch weave 19 which is formed by the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the second chain stitch yarn 21b.
  • the chain stitch weave 19 is formed by the first and second chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b, the weft passage yarn 22 is knitted by transversely passing between the chain stitch weaves 19, and the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into each of the chain stitch weaves 19.
  • the weft passage yarn 22 includes a net yarn which forms a base of the Raschel knitted fabric 20 and a pattern yarn, and the net yarn configures a basic net of the Raschel knitted fabric 20 together with the chain stitch yarn 21.
  • the pattern yarn is a large number of yarns which are knitted in order to determine a lace pattern, and the lace pattern is determined according to the type of the yarn and a weft passage aspect.
  • a large number of lattices are formed by each of the yarns 21a, 21b, 22, and 23, a through hole surrounded by each lattice is formed, and the lace pattern is determined by the shape of each lattice (the shape of the through hole) and the arrangement of the lattices.
  • a portion in which the amount of yarn which is disposed per unit area is dense is referred to as a pattern portion
  • a portion in which the amount of yarn which is disposed per unit area is sparse is referred to as a ground portion (including the basic net described above)
  • a pattern is also determined by the shapes and arrangement of the pattern portion and the ground portion.
  • the chain stitch yarn 21 As the chain stitch yarn 21, the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the second chain stitch yarn 21b are used.
  • each of the chain stitch weaves 19 is configured to be independently provided with two yarns (the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the second chain stitch yarn 21b).
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a for example, polyester-based polyurethane (trade name: Mobilon, manufactured by Nisshinbo Textile Inc.) is used.
  • the yarn 21a has a relatively thin thickness in a range of 17 to 56 dtex.
  • This yarn is a thermally weldable polyurethane yarn which is melted by heat treatment and welded to a yarn being in contact with the yarn, and at the same time, and is also a single fiber yarn (a filament yarn) made of a material having stretchability.
  • a filament yarn made of a material having stretchability.
  • the melting temperature of the yarn 21a is in a range of 150°C to 180°C.
  • the second chain stitch yarn 21b a long fiber yarn (a filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of synthetic resin is used.
  • the second chain stitch yarn 21b is made of polyamide (trade name: nylon), rayon, polyester, or the like, and the thickness thereof is in a range of about 33 to 56 dtex.
  • the yarn 21b is a yarn that forms the chain stitch weave 19 alone in a stretch Raschel lace of the related art.
  • the melting temperature of the second chain stitch yarn 21b is about 200°C.
  • the weft passage yarn 22 a long fiber yarn (a filament yarn) composed of a plurality of long fibers made of synthetic resin is used.
  • the weft passage yarn 22 is made of polyamide (trade name: nylon), rayon, polyester, or the like, and the thickness thereof is in a range of about 33 to 78 dtex.
  • the yarn 22 becomes a net yarn and a pattern yarn in the Raschel lace knitted fabric.
  • the melting temperature of the yarn 22 is also about 200°C.
  • the yarn 23 for example, polyester-based polyurethane is used.
  • the yarn 23 has a thickness in a range of 156 to 310 dtex and is thicker than the first chain stitch yarn 21a described above.
  • this yarn is the same type of material as the thermal melting yarn 21a.
  • this yarn since this yarn has a higher melting temperature and is thicker, the yarn remains even after the heat treatment step. Then, this yarn has strong stretchability, and therefore, after knitting, the yarn imparts stretchability to the Raschel knitted fabric 20.
  • the melting temperature of the yarn 23 is about 210°C.
  • the thermal melting yarn 21a is substantially melted and at least a part of the surface of the insertion yarn 23 is melted, so that a favorable welded state is obtained.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 which is used in the present invention can be knitted by, for example, a back jacquard Raschel knitting machine.
  • the back jacquard Raschel knitting machine 200 (hereinafter simply referred to as a knitted machine) has yarn guide means (specifically, reeds 61, 62, 63, 64a, and 64b) for guiding the chain stitch yarns 21 (21a and 21b), the weft passage yarns 22, and the insertion yarns 23 toward a knitting part 201 which is provided in the vicinity of the knitting needle 72.
  • the reeds 64a and 64b for guiding the chain stitch yarns 21 toward the knitting part 201 are located further on the machine front side (the right side in Fig. 3 , stated as a "machine front side" in the same drawing) than the other reeds 61, 62, and 63), and the reed 64a is located further on the machine front side than the reed 64b.
  • the reed 61 for guiding the insertion yarn 23 toward the knitting part 201 is disposed further on the knitting machine rear side (the left side in Fig. 3 , stated as a "machine rear side" in the same drawing) than the reeds 62 and 63 for guiding the weft passage yarn 22 toward the knitting part 201.
  • the knitting machine rear side is the direction toward a hook portion from the back face of the knitting needle 72.
  • the reed 62 for guiding the weft passage yarn 22 toward the knitting part 201 may be provided between the reeds 64b and 63.
  • the knitting machine 200 is realized by the reed for an insertion yarn 61, a jacquard bar 62 which is a jacquard reed, a large number of pattern reeds 63, and a pair of ground reeds 64a and 64b.
  • the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b are respectively threaded into the ground reeds 64a and 64b, and the weft passage yarn 22 is threaded into the jacquard bar 62 with respect to the net yarn and threaded into the pattern reed 63 with respect to the pattern yarn.
  • the insertion yarn 23 is threaded into the reed for an insertion yarn 61.
  • the respective reeds 61 to 64a and 64b are radially arranged toward the knitting part 201 in which the knitting needle 72 catches the chain stitch yarn 21, and are disposed in the order of the ground reeds 64a and 64b, the plurality of pattern reeds 63, the jacquard bar 62, and the reed for an insertion yarn 61 as it goes toward the knitting machine rear side which is the direction in which the knitting needle 72 catches the chain stitch yarn 21. Therefore, the respective yarns are arranged in the order of the chain stitch yarns 21 (21a and 21b), the plurality of pattern yarns 22, the net yarn 22, and the insertion yarn 23 in the front-back direction of the knitting machine from a knitting position which is determined in advance.
  • the ground reed 64a for the first chain stitch yarn 21a is located on the front side with respect to the ground reed 64b for the second chain stitch yarn 21b, and the first chain stitch yarn 21a is arranged in the front row of the knitting machine 200, and thus the handling of the first chain stitch yarn 21a by a worker becomes easy.
  • a large number of knitting needles 72 are arranged in a direction (a front-to-back direction of the plane in Figs. 3 and 4 ) orthogonal to the front-back direction of the knitting machine (the right-left direction in Figs. 3 and 4 ), and fixed to a needle bar 69 serving as holding means for holding each knitting needle 72.
  • the needle bar 69 moves each knitting needle 72 up and down. Further, the needle bar 69 is operated, so that each yarn which is guided by each of the reeds 61 to 64a and 64b is led to the knitting position which is determined in advance.
  • Each of the reeds 61 to 64a and 64b performs overlapping (stitch knitting motion) to move each of the corresponding yarns 23, 22, 21a, and 21b in the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged, in a space on the knitting machine rear side with respect the knitting needle 72, in synchronism with the moving-up and -down motion of the knitting needle 72, and underlapping (insertion motion) to move each of the corresponding yarns 23, 22, 21a, and 21b in the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged, in a space on the knitting machine front side with respect the knitting needle 72, in synchronism with the moving-up and -down motion of the knitting needle 72.
  • a so-called swing in which the reed moves in the direction orthogonal to the direction in which the knitting needles 72 are arranged is performed. Specifically, there are two swing motions.
  • each of the corresponding yarns 23, 22, 21a, and 21b moves to pass the side of the knitting needle 72 from the space on the knitting machine rear side with respect the knitting needle 72 to the space on the knitting machine front side with respect the knitting needle 72.
  • a swing-out (front swing) motion which is the second swing motion
  • each of the corresponding yarns moves to pass the side of the knitting needle 72 from the space on the knitting machine front side with respect the knitting needle 72 to the space on the knitting machine rear side with respect the knitting needle 72.
  • a guide mounted on each of the reeds 61 to 64a and 64b operates, whereby each of the corresponding yarns passes around the knitting needle 72 along a path which is determined in advance, and thus the Raschel knitted fabric 20 which includes the corresponding respective yarns 23, 22, 21a and 21b is formed.
  • the operating positional relationship of the chain stitch yarn 21 with respect to each knitting needle 72 is shown in Fig. 7A
  • the operating positional relationship of the insertion yarn 23 with respect to each knitting needle 72 is shown in Fig. 7B .
  • the Raschel knitting machine 200 for knitting the Raschel knitted fabric 20 according to the present invention is provided with a first chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism TC1 which adjusts yarn feeding tension by adjusting the yarn feeding amount in a first chain stitch yarn feeding part b1 from the beam B1 for feeding the first chain stitch yarn 21a to the ground reed 64a (a first reed).
  • the Raschel knitting machine 200 is also provided with a second chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism TC2 which adjusts yarn feeding tension by adjusting the yarn feeding amount in a second chain stitch yarn feeding part b2 from the beam B2 for feeding the second chain stitch yarn 21b to the ground reed 64b (a second reed).
  • TC2 second chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism
  • the knitting part 201 is provided with a stitch comb bar 71, a trick plate bar 68, and a tongue bar 70.
  • a plurality of tongues corresponding to the respective knitting needles 72 are formed at a tip portion of the tongue bar 70.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 described above is knitted by the operations of the reeds 61 to 64a and 64b and the needle bar 69. Then, the knitted Raschel knitted fabric 20 is supplementarily knitted by the knitting assisting operation of the stitch comb bar 71 and passed through the trick plate bar 68, and the Raschel knitted fabric 20 is taken up by a take-up part provided in the vicinity of the knitting part 201.
  • Figs. 5A to 5E are schematic sectional views for describing the movements of the knitting needle 72 and the ground reeds 64a and 64b in a chain stitch portion, and the knitting work of the chain stitch portion of the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b proceeds in the order of Fig. 5A to Fig. 5E .
  • a hook portion 50 for locking the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b is formed at a tip portion
  • a knitting needle stem 51 is formed at a base end portion.
  • a tongue 52 for opening and closing an opening which is formed by the hook portion 50 is formed at a tip portion of the tongue bar 70 shown in Fig. 4 .
  • the knitting needle 72 and the tongue 52 are formed so as to be individually movable up and down with respect to the ground reeds 64a and 64b.
  • the hook portion 50 hooks a new preceding loop-shaped portion r1 (a needle loop) which is formed by the chain stitch yarn 21, and the tongue 52 closes the opening of the hook portion 50.
  • the knitting needle 72 moves up toward the ground reeds 64a and 64b with respect to the tongue 52. In this way, the opening of the hook portion 50 is opened, and the preceding loop-shaped portion r1 of the chain stitch yarn 21 hooked by the hook portion 50 comes out from the hook portion 50 and moves to the knitting needle stem 51.
  • the ground reeds 64a and 64b perform back swing with respect to the knitting needle 72.
  • the ground reeds 64a and 64b overlap, and the front swing is then performed, as shown in Fig. 5D .
  • the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b which are guided to the ground reeds 64a and 64b move so as to wind around the knitting needle 72, thereby forming a new loop-shaped portion r2 (a needle loop).
  • the new loop-shaped portion r2 is hooked by the hook portion 50.
  • the tongue 52 moves up toward the hook portion 50 and closes the opening of the hook portion 50.
  • the preceding loop-shaped portion r1 which is formed on the knitting needle stem 51 and the new loop-shaped portion r2 which the hook portion 50 locks are formed on the knitting needle 72.
  • the hook portion 50 hooks the new loop-shaped portion r2 which is formed by the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b, and thus substantially the same state as Fig. 5A is created.
  • the chain stitch weave 19 is sequentially formed in which the loop-shaped portions r1 and r2 are sequentially formed and a loop-shaped portion r3 (a sinker loop) connecting the loop-shaped portions r1 and r2 is sequentially formed.
  • the weft passage yarn 22 and the insertion yarn 23 are knitted into the chain stitch weave 19 while performing such work of knitting the chain stitch weave 19, whereby the Raschel knitted fabric 20 of this embodiment can be knitted.
  • Figs. 6A to 6C are schematic sectional views for describing the movements of the jacquard bar 62 and the reed for an insertion yarn 61, and the operation proceeds in the order of Fig. 6A to Fig. 6C .
  • Fig. 6A, Fig. 6B, and Fig. 6C correspond to Fig. 5C, Fig. 5D, and Fig. 5E , respectively, and are drawings additionally showing the jacquard bar 62 and the reed for an insertion yarn 61.
  • the jacquard bar 62 is disposed further on the knitting machine rear side than the ground reeds 64a and 64b that guide the chain stitch yarns 21.
  • the reed for an insertion yarn 61 is disposed further on the knitting machine rear side than the jacquard bar 62.
  • the jacquard bar 62 and the reed for an insertion yarn 61 are also disposed on the knitting machine rear side with respect to the knitting needle 72.
  • the jacquard bar 62 and the reed for an insertion yarn 61 are also disposed in front of the knitting needle 72.
  • the jacquard bar 62 and the reed for an insertion yarn 61 perform underlapping, whereby the insertion yarn 23 and the weft passage yarn 22 which are guided straddle the chain stitch yarn 21.
  • the insertion yarn 23 and the weft passage yarn 22 are knitted into the course.
  • the reed for an insertion yarn 61 and the jacquard bar 62 operate in synchronization with the swing motion of the ground reeds 64a and 64b.
  • the jacquard bar 62 is disposed further on the knitting machine front side than the reed for an insertion yarn 61. Accordingly, in a case where the insertion yarn 23 and the weft passage yarn 22 are knitted into the chain stitch portion which is formed by the ground reeds 64a and 64b, the insertion yarn 23 which is guided to the knitting position is located further on the knitting machine rear side than the weft passage yarn 22 which is guided to the knitting position, and the weft passage yarn 22 is located further on the knitted fabric front and back surface side of the Raschel knitted fabric 20 than the insertion yarn 23.
  • the above is the configuration of the facility for knitting the Raschel knitted fabric 20 according to the present invention and the knitting progress state.
  • the preparation of the knitting step s1 is performed. That is, the selection of each of the yarns 21a, 21b, 22, and 23 which are used for the knitting of the Raschel knitted fabric 20, the determination of a pattern to be formed in the Raschel knitted fabric 20, the design of a knitted fabric for forming a desired knitting weave, and the like are completed, whereby the preparation of the knitted fabric knitting is completed.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 having a large number of chain stitch weaves 19 shown in Fig. 1 in the knitted fabric weft direction W is knitted by knitting each of the yarns 21a, 21b, 22, and 23 such as the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b and the insertion yarn 23 according to a knitting order designed in advance.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 has a structure in which the chain stitch weave 19 is formed by both the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the second chain stitch yarn 21b and the insertion yarn 23 is inserted into the chain stitch weave 19. As described previously, as the insertion yarn 23, a relatively thick polyurethane yarn is inserted, and therefore, the knitted fabric 20 has stretchability.
  • the Raschel knitting machine 200 performs knitting in a state where the insertion yarn 23 is stretched (a state where a certain degree of tension is applied thereto).
  • the first chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism TC1 which adjusts yarn feeding tension by adjusting the yarn feeding amount in the first chain stitch yarn feeding part b1 from the beam B1 for feeding the first chain stitch yarn 21a to the ground reed 64a (the first reed)
  • the second chain stitch yarn feeding amount adjustment mechanism TC2 which adjusts yarn feeding tension by adjusting the yarn feeding amount in the second chain stitch yarn feeding part b2 from the beam B2 for feeding the second chain stitch yarn 21b to the ground reed 64b (the second reed) are provided, whereby in the knitting, a good yarn feeding balance between the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the second chain stitch yarn 21b is taken.
  • the Raschel knitting machine 200 was set such that one rack is equal to 4800 rpm, and the yarn feeding amount of each yarn was set as follows.
  • First chain stitch yarn 21a 100 to 140 cm
  • Second chain stitch yarn 21b 100 to 140 cm
  • Weft passage yarn 22 20 to 80 cm
  • Insertion yarn 23 5 to 55 cm
  • each chain stitch weave 19 is knitted to be provided with two polyurethane yarns 21a and 23.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 knitted in the knitting step s1 is heated to a temperature (for example, 200°C.) which is equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the first chain stitch yarn 21a and equal to or lower than the melting temperatures of the other yarns 21b, 22, and 23. That is, heat setting is performed, for example, for one minute at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting temperature (maximum 180°C) of the first chain stitch yarn 21a and equal to or lower than the melting temperatures (minimum 200°C) of the second chain stitch yarn 21b and the weft passage yarn 22.
  • a temperature for example, 200°C.
  • This heat treatment time is a time in which the first chain stitch yarn 21a melts and exhibits weldability and each of the second chain stitch yarn 21b, the weft passage yarn 22, and the insertion yarn 23 maintains the form of a yarn (remains as a yarn).
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a can be melted and welded to the yarn which is in contact with the first chain stitch yarn 21a, while maintaining the pattern as a Raschel lace.
  • the welding of the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 occurs favorably.
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a is welded to the insertion yarn 23 at a contact portion Y between at least the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23, shown in Fig. 1 .
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a is partially welded to the other yarns 21b and 22 as well.
  • the portion Y is the strongest.
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 are different in melting temperature (here, a temperature at which the yarns completely melt).
  • both the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 are made of polyester-based polyurethane, and therefore, they are strongly welded to each other.
  • the second chain stitch yarn 21b is made of polyamide and the weft passage yarn 22 is made of polyamide, rayon, or the like, the degree of welding is lower than in the first chain stitch yarn 21a.
  • the knitted fabric 20 In heating the Raschel knitted fabric 20, the knitted fabric 20 is stretched, and thus the insertion yarn 23 maintains a state of being stretched to some extent (a tensioned state). Accordingly, as described previously, the welding between the polyurethane yarns is favorably generated and the Raschel lace knitted fabric subjected to this step retains stretchability due to shrinkage of the insertion yarn 23.
  • the Raschel knitted fabric 20 is heated, whereby the contact portion Y between the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 is welded and the chain stitch yarns 21 are loosely welded to each other, whereby a Raschel lace knitted fabric is formed, and the process proceeds to the dyeing step s3.
  • the formed Raschel lace knitted fabric is scoured or dyed.
  • the resin treatment and drying step s4 is a step of applying a softener and can impart pliability to the Raschel lace knitted fabric.
  • the Raschel lace knitted fabric is dried with hot air of about 160°C for 30 seconds.
  • the knitted fabric is cut into a predetermined shape according to the use of the Raschel lace knitted fabric and sewn.
  • the insertion yarn 23 having stretchability is knitted into the chain stitch weave 19, so that stretchability is provided to the chain stitch weave 19, and thus the Raschel lace knitted fabric having stretchability is realized. Further, a part of the contact portion Y between the first chain stitch yarn 21a and the insertion yarn 23 is bonded. Accordingly, the positional deviation between the chain stitch weave 19 and the insertion yarn 23 and the positional deviation between the chain stitch yarns 21a and 21b are prevented, and thus distortion of the lattice is prevented.
  • the insertion yarn 23 is bonded and the chain stitch yarns 21 are also partially bonded together, and therefore, it is not a configuration in which partially different yarns are used, visual and tactile consistency is obtained, and aesthetic appearance and a feel are not impaired.
  • the patent also describes a Raschel knitted fabric being knitted with the chain stitch weave 19 in which instead of using two yarns 21a and 21b as described above, a thermally weldable conjugate yarn 210 is adopted as a chain stitch yarn and one chain stitch weave 19 is composed of a first chain stitch portion as a meltable yarn portion 210a made of a meltable material, and a second chain stitch portion as a poorly-meltable yarn portion 210b made of a poorly-meltable material.
  • FIG. 9 Another example not forming part of the invention is shown in Fig. 9 .
  • the thermally weldable conjugate yarn is obtained by simultaneously spinning a plurality of (in the case shown in Fig. 9 , two) different components and has a structure in which these components are stuck to each other continuously in a length direction.
  • this type of conjugate yarn as the configuration thereof, a sheath-core type, a laminated type (a side-by-side type), or the like is known. However, in Fig. 9 , a side-by-side type is shown.
  • the meltable yarn portion 210a Since it is necessary to form a contact portion between the meltable yarn portion 210a and the insertion yarn 23, the meltable yarn portion 210a has a structure being exposed to the surface.
  • the sheath side is set to be the meltable yarn portion 210a and the core side is set to be the poorly-meltable yarn portion 210b.
  • the laminated type a part of at least the meltable yarn portion 210a is set to be exposed on the yarn surface.
  • the patent also describes the use of a thermally weldable conjugate yarn using polyester-based polyurethane (having a melting temperature in a range of 150°C to 180°C) which is a meltable material, and nylon which is regarded as a poorly-meltable material.
  • bonding of the poorly-meltable yarn portion 210b and the insertion yarn 23 is realized according to the melting of the meltable yarn portion 210a.
  • a Raschel lace knitted fabric can be obtained by executing, in the heat treatment step, heat treatment to heat the Raschel knitted fabric obtained through the knitting step to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting temperatures of the poorly-meltable material and the weft passage yarn and equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the meltable material, in the knitted fabric tensioned state, for a treatment time in which the poorly-meltable yarn portion 210b and the weft passage yarn 22 remain as yarns.
  • a first chain stitch portion is formed by the first chain stitch yarn 21a and a second chain stitch portion is formed by the second chain stitch yarn 21b.
  • the first chain stitch yarn 21a a yarn having a thickness in a range of 17 to 56 dtex is used.
  • a yarn having a thickness thinner than the thickness of the insertion yarn 23 specifically, a yarn having a thickness of 156 dtex.
  • the second chain stitch yarn 21b in a case of using nylon or polyester, a yarn having a thickness of 33, 40, 44, 56, or 78 dtex can be adopted.
  • the weft passage yarn 22 in a case of using nylon or polyester, a yarn having a thickness of 33, 40, 44, 56, or 78 dtex can be adopted.
  • the heat treatment temperature in the heat treatment step s2 is set to be equal to or higher than the melting temperature of the first chain stitch yarn 21a which is specifically used, and equal to or lower than the temperature on the low temperature side out of the melting temperatures of the second chain stitch yarn 21b and the weft passage yarn 22, and it is possible to perform treatment only for a time in which the second chain stitch yarn 21b and the weft passage yarn 22 remain as yarns in this heat treatment.
  • the heat treatment temperature can be set to be 180°C or more and 200°C or less (preferably 190°C or more and 200°C or less).
  • the heat treatment time is set to be in a range of about 30 to 90 seconds. Since this treatment time is very short, the second chain stitch yarn 21b, the weft passage yarn 22, and the insertion yarn 23 remain as yarns.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)

Claims (5)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel (20) comprenant :
    une étape de tricotage pour tricoter un tissu en tricot Rachel en alimentant une pluralité de fils de chaînette (21) formant chacun une armure de fils de chaînette s'étendant dans une direction de tricotage, un fil de passage de trame (22) qui est tricoté dans une direction de trame de tissu tricoté entre une pluralité d'armures de chaînette formées par les fils de chaînette, et un fil de fusion thermique (21a) présentant une soudabilité en étant partiellement ou complètement fondu en étant chauffé, sur un métier Rachel (200), et
    une étape de traitement thermique pour traiter thermiquement le tissu en tricot Rachel qui est obtenu à l'étape de tricotage,
    dans lequel à l'étape de tricotage,
    on tricote une pluralité d'armures de chaînette (19), dans lesquelles un fil fusible (21a) réalisé à partir de polyuréthane thermosoudable qui est un matériau fusible partiellement ou entièrement fondu en étant chauffé, est déterminé pour être un premier fil de chaînette, un fil faiblement fusible (21b) réalisé avec un matériau faiblement fusible ayant une température de fusion supérieure au matériau fusible, est déterminé pour être un second fil de chaînette, le premier fil de chaînette et le second fil de chaînette sont prévus dans la même armure de chaînette, et une surface du premier fil de chaînette est dans un état exposé ; et
    on tricote un tissu en tricot Rachel (20), dans lequel le fil de passage de trame (22) est déterminé pour être un fil faiblement fusible réalisé avec un matériau faiblement fusible ayant une température de fusion supérieure au matériau fusible, et un fil d'insertion réalisé avec un matériau polyuréthane est inséré dans l'armure de chaînette, et
    à l'étape de traitement thermique :
    le traitement thermique pour chauffer le tissu en tricot Rachel obtenu par le biais de l'étape de tricotage, à une température égale ou inférieure aux températures de fusion du matériau faiblement fusible et au fil de passage de trame (22) et égale ou supérieure à une température de fusion du matériau fusible dans un état tendu de tissu tricoté, où une partie de contact entre le premier fil de chaînette et le fil d'insertion (23) est formée, ledit traitement thermique étant exécuté pendant un temps de traitement pendant lequel chacun parmi le fil faiblement fusible (21b), le fil de passage de trame (22) et le fil d'insertion (23) reste comme un fil, de sorte qu'un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel (20) dans lequel le fil d'insertion est soudé sur l'armure de chaînette est obtenu,
    dans lequel le premier fil de chaînette (21a) qui est réalisé avec le matériau fusible et est un fil de filament et le second fil de chaînette (21b) réalisé avec le matériau faiblement fusible, sont alimentés à partir de différentes ensouples à des peignes (64a, 64b) individuels, et une première partie de chaînette et une seconde partie de chaînette sont tricotées dans la même armure de chaînette par le premier fil de chaînette (21a) et le second fil de chaînette, respectivement, et
    le fil d'insertion (23) est inséré dans l'armure de chaînette qui est formée par le premier fil de chaînette et le second fil de chaînette, de sorte que le tissu en tricot Rachel (20) est tricoté, et
    à l'étape de traitement thermique,
    le traitement thermique pour chauffer le tissu en tricot Rachel obtenu par le biais de l'étape de tricotage à une température égale ou inférieure aux températures de fusion du second fil de chaînette (21b) et du fil de passage de trame (22) et égale ou supérieure à la température de fusion du premier fil de chaînette (21a) est exécuté pendant un temps de traitement pendant lequel chacun parmi le second fil de chaînette (21b), le fil de passage de trame (22) et le fil d'insertion (23) reste en tant que fil, obtenant ainsi un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel (20),
    dans lequel le premier fil de chaînette (21a) est un fil de polyuréthane thermosoudable ayant une épaisseur dans une plage de 17 à 156 dtex et une température de fusion dans une plage de 150°C à 180°C,
    le second fil de chaînette (21b) est un fil en nylon ayant une épaisseur dans une plage de 33 à78 dtex et une température de fusion de 200°C,
    le fil d'insertion (23) est un fil de polyuréthane ayant une épaisseur dans une plage de 156 à 310 dtex et une température de fusion dans une plage de 190°C à 220°C, et
    à l'étape de traitement thermique, le tissu en tricot Rachel obtenu par le biais de l'étape de tricotage, est traité thermiquement pendant un moment dans une plage de 30 à 90 secondes à une température dans une plage de température de chauffage de 190°C ou plus et 200°C ou moins,
    dans lequel le premier fil de chaînette (21a) est un fil qui est plus fin que le fil d'insertion (23),
    une surface du fil d'insertion (23) est fondue lors du traitement thermique à l'étape de traitement thermique, et
    le premier fil de chaînette (21a) est soudé sur la surface du fil d'insertion (23).
  2. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel selon la revendication 1, dans lequel un premier peigne (64a) auquel le premier fil de chaînette (21a) est amené, est positionné davantage du côté avant qu'un second peigne (64b) auquel le second fil de chaînette (21b) est amené, dans une direction avant-arrière du métier Rachel (200).
  3. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel selon les revendications 1 ou 2,
    dans lequel un mécanisme d'ajustement de quantité d'alimentation de premier fil de chaînette (TC1) qui ajuste la tension d'alimentation du fil en ajustant une quantité d'alimentation de fil dans une partie d'alimentation de premier fil de chaînette (b1) à partir d'une ensouple (B1) pour amener le premier fil de chaînette (21a) à un premier peigne (64a), est prévu, et
    un mécanisme d'ajustement de quantité d'alimentation de second fil de chaînette (TC2) qui ajuste la tension d'alimentation du fil en ajustant une quantité d'alimentation de fil dans une partie d'alimentation de second fil de chaînette (b2) à partir d'une ensouple (B2) pour amener le second fil de chaînette (21b) à un second peigne (64b), est prévu.
  4. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3,
    dans lequel à l'étape de tricotage,
    une armure de chaînette ayant le premier fil de chaînette, le second fil de chaînette et le fil d'insertion (23) est tricotée sur tout le tissu en tricot Rachel.
  5. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté en dentelle Rachel selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4,
    dans lequel à l'étape de tricotage,
    un fil différent du fil d'insertion (23) est inséré dans l'armure de chaînette qui est formée par le premier fil de chaînette et le second fil de chaînette, en tant que fil d'insertion flottant dans une forme tricotée dans laquelle une partie du fil flotte sur une surface arrière du tissu en tricot Rachel.
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HK1256537A1 (zh) 2019-09-27
US20180305848A1 (en) 2018-10-25
JP2018184672A (ja) 2018-11-22
JP6295358B1 (ja) 2018-03-14
CN108729009B (zh) 2020-10-23
EP3396037A1 (fr) 2018-10-31
ES2902681T3 (es) 2022-03-29
CN108729009A (zh) 2018-11-02

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