EP3325704B1 - Machine for the production of footwear - Google Patents

Machine for the production of footwear Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3325704B1
EP3325704B1 EP16766358.2A EP16766358A EP3325704B1 EP 3325704 B1 EP3325704 B1 EP 3325704B1 EP 16766358 A EP16766358 A EP 16766358A EP 3325704 B1 EP3325704 B1 EP 3325704B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cut
needle
footwear
stitching
machine
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP16766358.2A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3325704A1 (en
Inventor
Massimo Centanni Fiorini
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
Original Assignee
Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL filed Critical Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
Publication of EP3325704A1 publication Critical patent/EP3325704A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3325704B1 publication Critical patent/EP3325704B1/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/02—Footwear stitched or nailed through
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/08—Turned footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the technical field related to the production of footwear. More particularly, the invention pertains to a machine for the production of footwear.
  • a bottom for a footwear of a known type is the one suitable for a footwear of the type "ballet flat".
  • a footwear type includes an open-type upper and a thin bottom, usually without heel, to which the upper is stitched.
  • the perimeter edge of that kind of bottom forms a step developing along all the profile of the bottom itself.
  • the bottom includes a cut originating on the relative upper surface and penetrating obliquely the thickness of the bottom itself, in order to extend towards the perimeter edge. That cut (known in the field as "channel"), develops as a closed loop side by side with respect to the perimeter edge.
  • the upper is placed with the related lower perimeter edge at the mentioned step.
  • the upper and the bottom are joined by means of a stitching affecting the lower perimeter edge of the upper, the step of the perimeter edge of the bottom and the cut.
  • the upper is turned inside out: in that way, the stitching itself is not visible either form the outside nor from the inside of the footwear. Moreover, following the stitching procedure, from the outside of the footwear only a minimal portion of the mentioned step is still visible.
  • a machine including: a support for the bottom; retractor means, constituted by two protuberances being insertable in the first cut, to separate their adjacent hems; a gathering presser foot, placed upstream from the needle with respect to the stitching direction, to push the edge of the upper causing its increased advancing with respect to the one caused by the advancing of a stitching pitch, so that the upper follows the profile of the bottom.
  • the above-described bottom for a footwear and machine are arranged only to obtain a footwear of the "ballet flat” kind, or however to obtain a footwear whose bottom is almost invisible from the outside.
  • WO 2012/017413 A2 discloses a machine that performs sewing elements to a bottom for shoes.
  • An object of the invention is to propose a machine for the production of footwear including a bottom for footwear being alternative with respect to the above-described one, namely such to allow the production of footwear being alternative to the above-mentioned one, where the thickness of the bottom itself is visible.
  • Another object of the invention is to propose an extremely versatile and functional machine.
  • the bottom (1) includes: a body (11), in turn including a lower surface (3), intended to face the ground when the bottom (1) is used; an upper surface (4); and a perimeter edge (2), having a given profile (P) (in particular see figures 1A and 1B ).
  • the bottom (1) includes a first cut (5) (known in the field as "channel"), originating from the upper surface (4) towards the lower surface (3), penetrating the body (11), and developing along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
  • a first cut (5) (known in the field as "channel")
  • the bottom (1) includes a second cut (6), originating from the upper surface (4) towards the lower surface (3), penetrating the body (11), developing along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2) and being interposed between the first cut (5) and the perimeter edge (2).
  • the bottom (1) can remain visible once produced the corresponding footwear.
  • the proposed bottom (1) does not provide for any step, but instead it provides for the second cut (6), being realized starting from the upper surface (4) towards the inside of the body (11). Therefore, all the thickness of the bottom (1) could be visible once produced a footwear.
  • the first cut (5) and the second cut (6) divide the corresponding hems (50, 51, 60, 61) of the body (11), in that way identifying a portion (10) of the body itself therebetween.
  • the considered bottom (1) allows producing a male footwear.
  • the second cut (6) extends obliquely toward the first cut (5).
  • the first cut (5) extends obliquely towards the second cut (6).
  • first cut (5) and second cut (6) can extend in any way, namely they can penetrate the body (11) having any angle and any depth with respect to the latter.
  • each of the first cut (5) and/or the second cut (6) identifies a closed loop.
  • this allows applying a stitching line shaped as a closed loop.
  • a further bottom for footwear can be used, including: a body in turn including a lower surface intended to face the ground when the bottom is used, an upper surface, and a perimeter edge, having a given profile.
  • the bottom includes a first cut, originating from the upper surface and extending towards the lower surface, penetrating the body, and developing along a path following the profile of the perimeter edge.
  • the bottom includes a second cut, at least partially affecting the perimeter edge, penetrating the body, and developing along a path following the profile of the perimeter edge.
  • the second cut entirely or partially, affects the lateral wall of the body.
  • the considered bottom allows remaining visible once produced the corresponding footwear.
  • that bottom similarly to the previously described variation, does not provide any step, but instead provides the second cut, being realized starting from the perimeter edge towards the inside of the body. Depending on the positioning of the second cut, the bottom will be more or less visible from the outside of the footwear.
  • second cut could have any angle and any depth.
  • first cut and second cut divide the corresponding hems of the body, in that way identifying a portion of the body itself therebetween. Therefore, a stitching could be executed involving the mentioned portion.
  • the proposed bottom advantageously, allows producing a male footwear.
  • the second cut forms a closed loop including a first end portion and a second end portion, being opposite to each other.
  • the second cut develops on a plane that is tilted with respect to the upper surface, so that the first end portion of the closed loop is proximal with respect to the upper surface, and the second end portion of the closed loop is distal with respect to the upper surface.
  • the closed loop formed by the second cut is arranged tilted with respect to the upper surface.
  • the footwear (W) shown in figure 2 includes: an open-type upper (U) including a lower edge (L), an above-described bottom (1) and a stitching (S) developing as a closed loop along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2), in order to join the bottom (1) to the upper (U).
  • the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is arranged at the second cut (6) of the bottom (1), in order to be in contact at least with a related hem (60) separated therefrom.
  • the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is in contact with both the hems (60, 61) separated by the second cut (6).
  • the mentioned stitching (S) affects the portion (10) of the body (11) of the bottom (1) identified between the first cut (5) and the second cut (6) (particular reference can be made to figures 3A and 3B ).
  • the stitching (S) penetrates the hems (60, 50) identified by the second cut (6) and the first cut (5) being proximal to each other.
  • the stitching affected the step being provided in the bottom, besides the cut being made in the upper surface of the bottom itself.
  • the considered footwear (W) has a bottom (1) that remains visible from the outside of the same.
  • the machine being object of the present invention is shown in the figures 4A , 4B , 5, 6A, 6B, 6C ; using that machine the footwear W is produced including the mentioned bottom 1 and the mentioned open-type upper U whose lower edge is marked with the reference (L) (clearly the footwear (W) can include other elements too).
  • the machine (M) in a way known per se, includes a head in which the movement means intended to actuate the stitching parts are housed.
  • a longitudinal shaft that, in a known way, protrudes from the front of the head and has a radial arm (not shown in the figures) being force fitted at the free end of which a needle (7) is fixed developing along a circle segment whose center coincides with the longitudinal shaft axis.
  • the longitudinal shaft is adapted to be actuated with a oscillating alternating motion in order to move the needle (7) between two end positions, respectively retracted (R) ( figure 4A ) and advanced A ( figure 4B ) along a curved trajectory concentrically with the radius of curvature of the needle (7) itself and arranged on a vertical plane.
  • the needle (7) In the forward travel, between the retracted position R and the advanced one A, the needle (7) is intended to meet and pierce the material to be stitched, being supported and placed in a way that will be described in the following.
  • the machine M in one variation not shown, is provided with a straight needle, axially actuated in order to define the respective retracted and advanced positions, and subjected to parts being able to translate it perpendicularly to the related axis in order to obtain the travels corresponding to the stitching pitch.
  • the machine (M) includes first retractor means (8), adapted to be inserted in the first cut (5) to keep the corresponding hems (50, 51) separated during the stitching operations.
  • first retractor means for example, include two protuberances (8A, 8B) entering the first cut (5), originating from a body (90) fixed to the structure of the machine (M) ( figure 6B ); those protuberances are arranged on both sides with respect to a slot (8B) adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
  • the machine (M) includes second retractor means (9), adapted to be inserted in the second cut (6) to keep the corresponding hems (60, 61) separated during the stitching operations.
  • the second retractor means (9) include ( figure 6B, 6C ) a protuberance 9A, entering the second cut (6), originating from a dividing device (80) being fastened to a body (81) carried by the structure of the machine; in that device (80), next to the protuberance 9A, a slot 9B is provided adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
  • the body (81) carries an abutment (82), being height adjustable, whose end (82A) facing downwards is the stop for the lower end (L) of the upper (U).
  • the function of the dividing device (80) is to keep the lower end (L) of the upper and the bottom (1) separated from each other, upstream from the stitching.
  • the machine (M), thanks to the first and second retractor means (8, 9) allows realizing the stitching (S) in order to join the bottom (1) and the upper (U).
  • the first retractor means (8) are inserted in the first cut (8), the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is placed at the second cut (6), whose related hems (60, 61) are kept divided by the second retractor means (9).
  • the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) for example, can be kept in position by the mentioned abutment (82A) being provided in the machine (M), which abuts one of its side (for example, see figure 4A ).
  • the needle (7) can be actuated to cooperate with the crochet in order to realize the stitching (S) (see figure 4B ).
  • the needle (7) successively pierces first the lower edge (L) of the upper (U), then the mentioned portion (10) of the body (11), passing through the hems (60, 61, 50, 51) of the second cut (6) and of the first cut (5). Thus, it arrives in the crochet to realize a stitch (S).
  • the machine (M) can further include a gathering presser foot (12), being placed upstream from the needle (7) with respect to the mentioned stitching direction, to act on the edge of the upper (U) so that the latter follows the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
  • a gathering presser foot (12) being placed upstream from the needle (7) with respect to the mentioned stitching direction, to act on the edge of the upper (U) so that the latter follows the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
  • the gathering presser foot (12) causes an increased advancing of the upper (U) with respect to the one caused by the advancing of the so-called mentioned “stitching pitch", to prepare the upper (U) in advance for the action of the needle (7).
  • the function of the dividing device (80), which keeps the lower edge (L) of the upper separated form the bottom (1), upstream from the stitching, is extremely advantageous in that it allows the gathering device (18) to optimally carry out its function.
  • the fact that the second retractor means (9) are carried by the dividing device (80) neither creates hindrances nor complicates the structure of the machine (M).

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
EP16766358.2A 2015-07-20 2016-07-19 Machine for the production of footwear Active EP3325704B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITUB2015A002321A ITUB20152321A1 (it) 2015-07-20 2015-07-20 Fondo per calzature, calzatura comprendente tale fondo e macchina per la realizzazione di una calzatura comprendente tale fondo
PCT/IB2016/054283 WO2017013580A1 (en) 2015-07-20 2016-07-19 Machine for the production of footwear

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3325704A1 EP3325704A1 (en) 2018-05-30
EP3325704B1 true EP3325704B1 (en) 2018-11-14

Family

ID=54329904

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16766358.2A Active EP3325704B1 (en) 2015-07-20 2016-07-19 Machine for the production of footwear

Country Status (9)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3325704B1 (tr)
CN (1) CN107075765B (tr)
BR (1) BR112018001143B1 (tr)
ES (1) ES2710790T3 (tr)
IT (1) ITUB20152321A1 (tr)
MX (1) MX2018000865A (tr)
PT (1) PT3325704T (tr)
TR (1) TR201901488T4 (tr)
WO (1) WO2017013580A1 (tr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT201700115759A1 (it) * 2017-10-13 2019-04-13 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Macchina da cucire per realizzare una cucitura norvegese
CN108251976B (zh) * 2018-03-19 2019-02-01 中山市志捷鞋业技术服务有限公司 一种自动加工鞋底线的缝纫机
CN111733541B (zh) * 2020-07-28 2024-04-02 上海博岙机电制造有限公司 一种制鞋用自动模板折垂机

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT1299967B1 (it) * 1998-04-09 2000-04-04 Mario Ciucani Macchina per la cucitura di una tomaia a un relativo fondo per calzatura.
ITBO20040665A1 (it) * 2004-10-27 2005-01-27 Mario Ciucani Macchina per la cucitura di articoli vari, in particolare una tomaia aperta ad un elemento sagomato associato ad un fondo di una calzatura
CN101220545A (zh) * 2007-01-11 2008-07-16 翔大机械股份有限公司 全方位车缝机
IT1394827B1 (it) * 2009-07-01 2012-07-20 Eredi Di Ciucani Mocassino Machinery Di Ciucani Mario Macchina per la cucitura di una tomaia ad un fondo per calzatura
IT1401264B1 (it) * 2010-08-06 2013-07-18 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Macchina per la cucitura di elementi ad un fondo per calzatura
ITBO20110113A1 (it) * 2011-03-09 2012-09-10 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Metodo e macchina cucitrice per la realizzazione di un semi-lavorato da utilizzare nella costruzione di una calzatura
ITBO20120548A1 (it) * 2012-10-08 2014-04-09 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Macchina cucitrice per la realizzazione di un semilavorato per una calzatura

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
None *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN107075765B (zh) 2019-02-26
MX2018000865A (es) 2018-08-15
EP3325704A1 (en) 2018-05-30
CN107075765A (zh) 2017-08-18
TR201901488T4 (tr) 2019-02-21
PT3325704T (pt) 2019-02-14
BR112018001143A2 (pt) 2018-09-11
ITUB20152321A1 (it) 2017-01-20
WO2017013580A1 (en) 2017-01-26
ES2710790T3 (es) 2019-04-26
BR112018001143B1 (pt) 2022-05-03

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