Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A43—FOOTWEAR
  • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
  • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
  • A43B9/02—Footwear stitched or nailed through
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A43—FOOTWEAR
  • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
  • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
  • A43B9/08—Turned footwear
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
  • D05B—SEWING
  • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
  • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines

Definitions

• the present invention belongs to the technical field related to the production of footwear. More particularly, the invention pertains to a machine for the production of footwear.
• a bottom for a footwear of a known type is the one suitable for a footwear of the type "ballet flat".
• a footwear type includes an open-type upper and a thin bottom, usually without heel, to which the upper is stitched.
• the perimeter edge of that kind of bottom forms a step developing along all the profile of the bottom itself.
• the bottom includes a cut originating on the relative upper surface and penetrating obliquely the thickness of the bottom itself, in order to extend towards the perimeter edge. That cut (known in the field as "channel”), develops as a closed loop side by side with respect to the perimeter edge.
• the upper is placed with the related lower perimeter edge at the mentioned step.
• the upper and the bottom are joined by means of a stitching affecting the lower perimeter edge of the upper, the step of the perimeter edge of the bottom and the cut.
• the upper is turned inside out: in that way, the stitching, itself is not visible either form the outside nor from the inside of the footwear. Moreover, following the stitching procedure, from the outside of the footwear only a minimal portion of the mentioned step is still visible.
• a machine including: a support for the bottom; retractor means, constituted by two protuberances being insertable in the first cut, to separate their adjacent hems; a gathering presser foot, placed upstream from the needle with respect to the stitching direction, to push the edge of the upper causing its increased advancing with respect to the one caused by the advancing of a stitching pitch, so that the upper follows the profile of the bottom.
• the above-described bottom for a footwear and machine are arranged only to obtain a footwear of the "ballet flat” kind, or however to obtain a footwear whose bottom is almost invisible from the outside.
• An object of the invention is to propose a machine for the production of footwear including a bottom for footwear being alternative with respect to the above-described one, namely such to allow the production of footwear being alternative to the above-mentioned one, where the thickness of the bottom itself is visible.
• Another object of the invention is to propose an extremely versatile and functional machine.
• FIG. 1A shows a top view of a bottom for footwear being used in the machine of the present invention
• FIG. 1 B shows a cross-section of the bottom of figure 1 A, according to an enlarged and schematic view
• FIG. 1 C shows a partial and enlarged view of figure 1 B, in a different operating condition
• - Figure 2 shows a perspective view of a footwear including a bottom of the previous figures, in a particular operating step following the stitching of the same bottom to an upper;
• FIGS. 3A and 3B show two partial cross-sections of the bottom of figure 1A during the production of a footwear, in two different operating situations;
• FIG. 4A and 4B show the machine according to the invention, according to as many lateral, partial and partially cross-sectioned views, in two different operating situations;
• FIG. 5 shows a perspective view of the machine shown in the figures 4A, 4B;
• FIG. 6A, 6B show the details X, Y of figure 5 in an enlarged scale
• FIG. 6C shows the front view of the mentioned details X, Y in the operating condition.
• the bottom (1) includes: a body (1 1), in turn including a lower surface (3), intended to face the ground when the bottom (1) is used; an upper surface (4); and a perimeter edge (2), having a given profile (P) (in particular see figures 1A and 1 B).
• the bottom (1) includes a first cut (5) (known in the field as "channel"), originating from the upper surface (4) towards the lower surface (3), penetrating the body (11), and developing along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
• the bottom (1) includes a second cut (6), originating from the upper surface (4) towards the lower surface (3), penetrating the body (11), developing along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2) and being interposed between the first cut (5) and the perimeter edge (2).
• the bottom (1) can remain visible once produced the corresponding footwear.
• the proposed bottom (1) does not provide for any step, but instead it provides for the second cut (6), being realized starting from the upper surface (4) towards the inside of the body (11). Therefore, all the thickness of the bottom (1) could be visible once produced a footwear.
• the first cut (5) and the second cut (6) divide the corresponding hems (50, 51 , 60, 61) of the body (11), in that way identifying a portion (10) of. the body itself therebetween.
• the considered bottom (1 ) allows producing a male footwear.
• the second cut (6) extends obliquely toward the first cut (5).
• the first cut (5) extends obliquely towards the second cut (6).
• first cut (5) and second cut (6) can extend in any way, namely they can penetrate the body (1 ) having any angle and any depth with respect to the latter.
• each of the first cut (5) and/or the second cut (6) identifies a closed loop.
• this allows applying a stitching line shaped as a closed loop.
• a further bottom for footwear (not shown) can be used, including: a body in turn including a lower surface intended to face the ground when the bottom is used, an upper surface, and a perimeter edge, having a given profile.
• the bottom includes a first cut, originating from the upper surface and extending towards the lower surface, penetrating the body, and developing along a path following the profile of the perimeter edge.
• the bottom includes a second cut, at least partially affecting the perimeter edge, penetrating the body, and developing along a path following the profile of the perimeter edge.
• the second cut entirely or partially, affects the lateral wall of the body.
• the considered bottom allows remaining visible once produced the corresponding footwear.
• that bottom similarly to the previously described variation, does not provide any step, but instead provides the second cut, being realized starting from the perimeter edge towards the inside of the body. Depending on the positioning of the second cut, the bottom will be more or less visible from the outside of the footwear.
• second cut could have any angle and any depth.
• first cut and second cut divide the corresponding hems of the body, in that way identifying a portion of the body itself therebetween. Therefore, a stitching could be executed involving the mentioned portion.
• the proposed bottom advantageously, allows producing a male footwear.
• the second cut forms a closed loop including a first end portion and a second end portion, being opposite to each other.
• the second cut develops on a plane that is tilted with respect to the upper surface, so that the first end portion of the closed loop is proximal with respect to the upper surface, and the second end portion of the closed loop is distal with respect to the upper surface.
• the closed loop formed by the second cut is arranged tilted with respect to the upper surface.
• the footwear (W) shown in figure 2 includes: an open-type upper (U) including a lower edge (L), an above-described bottom (1 ) and a stitching (S) developing as a closed loop along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2), in order to join the bottom (1) to the upper (U).
• the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is arranged at the second cut (6) of the bottom (1), in order to be in contact at least with a related hem (60) separated therefrom.
• the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is in contact with both the hems (60, 61 ) separated by the second cut (6).
• the mentioned stitching (S) affects the portion (10) of the body (11) of the bottom (1) identified between the first cut (5) and the second cut (6) (particular reference can be made to figures 3A and 3B).
• the stitching (S) penetrates the hems (60, 50) identified by the second cut (6) and the first cut (5) being proximal to each other.
• the stitching affected the step being provided in the bottom, besides the cut being made in the upper surface of the bottom itself.
• the considered footwear (W) has a bottom (1) that remains visible from the outside of the same.
• the machine being object of the present invention is shown in the figures 4A, 4B, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C; using that machine the footwear W is produced including the mentioned bottom 1 and the mentioned open-type upper U whose lower edge is marked with the reference (L) (clearly the footwear (W) can include other elements too).
• the machine (M) in a way known per se, includes a head in which the movement means intended to actuate the stitching parts are housed.
• a longitudinal shaft that, in a known way, protrudes from the front of the head and has a radial arm (not shown in ⁇ the figures) being force fitted at the free end of which a needle (7) is fixed developing along a circle segment whose center coincides with the longitudinal shaft axis.
• the longitudinal shaft is adapted to be actuated with a oscillating alternating motion in order to move the needle (7) between two end positions, respectively retracted (R) (figure 4A) and advanced A (figure 4B) along a curved trajectory concentrically with the radius of curvature of the needle (7) itself and arranged on a vertical plane.
• the needle (7) In the forward travel, between the retracted position R and the advanced one A, the needle (7) is intended to meet and pierce the material to be stitched, being supported and placed in a way that will be described in the following.
• the machine M in one variation not shown, is provided with a straight needle, axially actuated in order to define the respective retracted and advanced positions, and subjected to parts being able to translate it perpendicularly to the related axis in order to obtain the travels corresponding to the stitching pitch.
• the machine (M) includes first retractor means (8), adapted to be inserted in the first cut (5) to keep the corresponding hems (50, 51) separated during the stitching operations.
• first retractor means for example, include two protuberances (8A, 8B) entering the first cut (5), originating from a body (90) fixed to the structure of the machine (M) (figure 6B); those protuberances are arranged on both sides with respect to a slot (8B) adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
• the machine (M) includes second retractor means (9), adapted to be inserted in the second cut (6) to keep the corresponding hems (60, 61) separated during the stitching operations.
• the second retractor means (9) include (figure 6B, 6C) a protuberance 9A, entering the second cut (6), originating from a dividing device (80) being fastened to a body (81) carried by the structure of the machine; in that device (80), next to the protuberance 9A, a slot 9B is provided adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
• the body (81) carries an abutment (82), being height adjustable, whose end (82A) facing downwards is the stop for the lower end (L) of the upper (U).
• the function of the dividing device (80) is to keep the lower end (L) of the upper and the bottom (1) separated from each other, upstream from the stitching.
• the machine (M), thanks to the first and second retractor means (8, 9) allows realizing the stitching (S) in order to join the bottom (1) and the upper (U).
• the first retractor means (8) are inserted in the first cut (8), the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is placed at the second cut (6), whose related hems (60, 61) are kept divided by the second retractor means (9).
• the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) for example, can be kept in position by the mentioned abutment (82A) being provided in the machine (M), which abuts one of its side (for example, see figure 4A).
• the needle (7) can be actuated to cooperate with the crochet in order to realize the stitching (S) (see figure 4B).
• the needle (7) successively pierces first the lower edge (L) of the upper (U), then the mentioned portion (10) of the body (11 ), passing through the hems (60, 61 , 50, 51) of the second cut (6) and of the first cut (5). Thus, it arrives in the crochet to realize a stitch (S).
• the machine (M) can further include a gathering presser foot (12), being placed upstream from the needle (7) with respect to the mentioned stitching direction, to act on the edge of the upper (U) so that the latter follows the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
• a gathering presser foot (12) being placed upstream from the needle (7) with respect to the mentioned stitching direction, to act on the edge of the upper (U) so that the latter follows the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
• the gathering presser foot (12) causes an increased advancing of the upper (U) with respect to the one caused by the advancing of the so-called mentioned “stitching pitch", to prepare the upper (U) in advance for the action of the needle (7).
• the function of the dividing device (80), which keeps the lower edge (L) of the upper separated form the bottom (1), upstream from the stitching, is extremely advantageous in that it allows the gathering device (18) to optimally carry out its function.
• the fact that the second retractor means (9) are carried by the dividing device (80) neither creates hindrances nor complicates the structure of the machine (M).

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
• Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Priority Applications (5)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

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Family Applications (1)

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Cited By (2)

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Citations (4)

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• 2015
  • 2015-07-20 IT ITUB2015A002321A patent/ITUB20152321A1/it unknown
• 2016
  • 2016-07-19 CN CN201680003612.3A patent/CN107075765B/zh active Active
  • 2016-07-19 ES ES16766358T patent/ES2710790T3/es active Active
  • 2016-07-19 MX MX2018000865A patent/MX2018000865A/es active IP Right Grant
  • 2016-07-19 PT PT16766358T patent/PT3325704T/pt unknown
  • 2016-07-19 EP EP16766358.2A patent/EP3325704B1/en active Active
  • 2016-07-19 BR BR112018001143-6A patent/BR112018001143B1/pt active IP Right Grant
  • 2016-07-19 WO PCT/IB2016/054283 patent/WO2017013580A1/en active Application Filing
  • 2016-07-19 TR TR2019/01488T patent/TR201901488T4/tr unknown

Patent Citations (4)

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