EP3325704B1

EP3325704B1 - Machine for the production of footwear

Info

Publication number: EP3325704B1
Application number: EP16766358.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Massimo Centanni Fiorini
Original assignee: Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
Current assignee: Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
Priority date: 2015-07-20
Filing date: 2016-07-19
Publication date: 2018-11-14
Anticipated expiration: 2036-07-19
Also published as: PT3325704T; MX2018000865A; CN107075765B; WO2017013580A1; BR112018001143B1; TR201901488T4; ES2710790T3; ITUB20152321A1; CN107075765A; EP3325704A1; BR112018001143A2

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention belongs to the technical field related to the production of footwear. More particularly, the invention pertains to a machine for the production of footwear.

DESCRIPTION OF THE KNOWN ART

A bottom for a footwear of a known type, for example, is the one suitable for a footwear of the type "ballet flat". Such a footwear type includes an open-type upper and a thin bottom, usually without heel, to which the upper is stitched.
Particularly, the perimeter edge of that kind of bottom forms a step developing along all the profile of the bottom itself. Moreover, the bottom includes a cut originating on the relative upper surface and penetrating obliquely the thickness of the bottom itself, in order to extend towards the perimeter edge. That cut (known in the field as "channel"), develops as a closed loop side by side with respect to the perimeter edge.
In order to form a footwear, the upper is placed with the related lower perimeter edge at the mentioned step.
Thus, the upper and the bottom are joined by means of a stitching affecting the lower perimeter edge of the upper, the step of the perimeter edge of the bottom and the cut.
Once completed the stitching, the upper is turned inside out: in that way, the stitching itself is not visible either form the outside nor from the inside of the footwear. Moreover, following the stitching procedure, from the outside of the footwear only a minimal portion of the mentioned step is still visible.
In order to perform the stitching operations for the above-mentioned footwear, it can be used a machine including: a support for the bottom; retractor means, constituted by two protuberances being insertable in the first cut, to separate their adjacent hems; a gathering presser foot, placed upstream from the needle with respect to the stitching direction, to push the edge of the upper causing its increased advancing with respect to the one caused by the advancing of a stitching pitch, so that the upper follows the profile of the bottom.
However, the above-described bottom for a footwear and machine are arranged only to obtain a footwear of the "ballet flat" kind, or however to obtain a footwear whose bottom is almost invisible from the outside.
WO 2012/017413 A2 discloses a machine that performs sewing elements to a bottom for shoes.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a machine to realise footwear as specified in claim 1. Preferred embodiments are specified in the dependent claims. An object of the invention is to propose a machine for the production of footwear including a bottom for footwear being alternative with respect to the above-described one, namely such to allow the production of footwear being alternative to the above-mentioned one, where the thickness of the bottom itself is visible.
Another object of the invention is to propose an extremely versatile and functional machine.
Those objects are achieved according to the content of the claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Specific embodiments of the invention will be specified in the present invention, with particular reference to the attached drawings, where:

Figure 1A shows a top view of a bottom for footwear being used in the machine of the present invention;
Figure 1B shows a cross-section of the bottom of figure 1A, according to an enlarged and schematic view;
Figure 1C shows a partial and enlarged view of figure 1B, in a different operating condition;
Figure 2 shows a perspective view of a footwear including a bottom of the previous figures, in a particular operating step following the stitching of the same bottom to an upper;
Figures 3A and 3B show two partial cross-sections of the bottom of figure 1A during the production of a footwear, in two different operating situations;
Figures 4A and 4B show the machine according to the invention, according to as many lateral, partial and partially cross-sectioned views, in two different operating situations;
Figure 5 shows a perspective view of the machine shown in the figures 4A, 4B;
Figures 6A, 6B show the details X, Y of figure 5 in an enlarged scale;
Figure 6C shows the front view of the mentioned details X, Y in the operating condition.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

With reference to the attached figures, with (1) it is shown a bottom (1) for footwear.
It should be pointed out that in the following description with footwear it is meant the whole including a bottom and an open-type upper, to which clearly further parts can be added.
The bottom (1) includes: a body (11), in turn including a lower surface (3), intended to face the ground when the bottom (1) is used; an upper surface (4); and a perimeter edge (2), having a given profile (P) (in particular see figures 1A and 1B).
Moreover, the bottom (1) includes a first cut (5) (known in the field as "channel"), originating from the upper surface (4) towards the lower surface (3), penetrating the body (11), and developing along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
Particularly, the bottom (1) includes a second cut (6), originating from the upper surface (4) towards the lower surface (3), penetrating the body (11), developing along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2) and being interposed between the first cut (5) and the perimeter edge (2).
Advantageously, the bottom (1) can remain visible once produced the corresponding footwear. Actually, contrary to a bottom of the known art, where a step along the relative perimeter edge was provided for, the proposed bottom (1) does not provide for any step, but instead it provides for the second cut (6), being realized starting from the upper surface (4) towards the inside of the body (11). Therefore, all the thickness of the bottom (1) could be visible once produced a footwear.
Practically, the first cut (5) and the second cut (6) divide the corresponding hems (50, 51, 60, 61) of the body (11), in that way identifying a portion (10) of the body itself therebetween.
Therefore, as it will be clarified in the following, a stitching (S) could be executed involving the mentioned portion (10).
For example, advantageously, the considered bottom (1) allows producing a male footwear.
According to one embodiment, the second cut (6) extends obliquely toward the first cut (5).
According to one embodiment, the first cut (5) extends obliquely towards the second cut (6).
Clearly, first cut (5) and second cut (6) can extend in any way, namely they can penetrate the body (11) having any angle and any depth with respect to the latter.
Preferably, each of the first cut (5) and/or the second cut (6) identifies a closed loop. Clearly, this allows applying a stitching line shaped as a closed loop.
A further bottom for footwear (not shown) can be used, including: a body in turn including a lower surface intended to face the ground when the bottom is used, an upper surface, and a perimeter edge, having a given profile.
Moreover, the bottom includes a first cut, originating from the upper surface and extending towards the lower surface, penetrating the body, and developing along a path following the profile of the perimeter edge.
Particularly, the bottom includes a second cut, at least partially affecting the perimeter edge, penetrating the body, and developing along a path following the profile of the perimeter edge. In other words, the second cut, entirely or partially, affects the lateral wall of the body.
Advantageously, the considered bottom allows remaining visible once produced the corresponding footwear. Actually, that bottom, similarly to the previously described variation, does not provide any step, but instead provides the second cut, being realized starting from the perimeter edge towards the inside of the body. Depending on the positioning of the second cut, the bottom will be more or less visible from the outside of the footwear.
Clearly, that second cut could have any angle and any depth.
Also in that case, first cut and second cut divide the corresponding hems of the body, in that way identifying a portion of the body itself therebetween. Therefore, a stitching could be executed involving the mentioned portion.
For example, the proposed bottom, advantageously, allows producing a male footwear.
According to one further embodiment, the second cut forms a closed loop including a first end portion and a second end portion, being opposite to each other. Particularly, the second cut develops on a plane that is tilted with respect to the upper surface, so that the first end portion of the closed loop is proximal with respect to the upper surface, and the second end portion of the closed loop is distal with respect to the upper surface. In other words, the closed loop formed by the second cut is arranged tilted with respect to the upper surface.
In this way, once produced a footwear with the just described bottom, the latter, as seen from the outside, will have a thickness having an increasing height starting from the front of the footwear towards the back of the footwear. Clearly, that tilt can be selected depending on the needs.
The footwear (W) shown in figure 2 includes: an open-type upper (U) including a lower edge (L), an above-described bottom (1) and a stitching (S) developing as a closed loop along a path following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2), in order to join the bottom (1) to the upper (U).
Particularly, the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is arranged at the second cut (6) of the bottom (1), in order to be in contact at least with a related hem (60) separated therefrom. Practically, the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is in contact with both the hems (60, 61) separated by the second cut (6).
Moreover, the mentioned stitching (S) affects the portion (10) of the body (11) of the bottom (1) identified between the first cut (5) and the second cut (6) (particular reference can be made to figures 3A and 3B).
In other words, the stitching (S) penetrates the hems (60, 50) identified by the second cut (6) and the first cut (5) being proximal to each other.
On the contrary, in the known art the stitching affected the step being provided in the bottom, besides the cut being made in the upper surface of the bottom itself.
Advantageously, the considered footwear (W) has a bottom (1) that remains visible from the outside of the same.
The machine being object of the present invention is shown in the figures 4A, 4B, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C; using that machine the footwear W is produced including the mentioned bottom 1 and the mentioned open-type upper U whose lower edge is marked with the reference (L) (clearly the footwear (W) can include other elements too).
The machine (M), in a way known per se, includes a head in which the movement means intended to actuate the stitching parts are housed.
Among said movement means there is a longitudinal shaft that, in a known way, protrudes from the front of the head and has a radial arm (not shown in the figures) being force fitted at the free end of which a needle (7) is fixed developing along a circle segment whose center coincides with the longitudinal shaft axis.
The longitudinal shaft is adapted to be actuated with a oscillating alternating motion in order to move the needle (7) between two end positions, respectively retracted (R) (figure 4A) and advanced A (figure 4B) along a curved trajectory concentrically with the radius of curvature of the needle (7) itself and arranged on a vertical plane.
In the forward travel, between the retracted position R and the advanced one A, the needle (7) is intended to meet and pierce the material to be stitched, being supported and placed in a way that will be described in the following.
When the needle (7) is in its advance position, its tip is inside a rotating hook device (70), the so-called "crochet", with which it cooperates, in a known way, in order to realize the stitches (with two knotted threads) along a stitching direction.
It is in the state of the art to make the mentioned longitudinal shaft axially translatable with an alternating motion according to travels having a prefixed amplitude, synchronously with the crochet 70 and with a proper phase relationship with the oscillation of the needle (7), in order to impart to the latter a movement perpendicular to the related oscillation plane, equal to a preset stitching pitch.
The machine M, in one variation not shown, is provided with a straight needle, axially actuated in order to define the respective retracted and advanced positions, and subjected to parts being able to translate it perpendicularly to the related axis in order to obtain the travels corresponding to the stitching pitch.
Moreover, the machine (M) includes first retractor means (8), adapted to be inserted in the first cut (5) to keep the corresponding hems (50, 51) separated during the stitching operations.
Those first retractor means, for example, include two protuberances (8A, 8B) entering the first cut (5), originating from a body (90) fixed to the structure of the machine (M) (figure 6B); those protuberances are arranged on both sides with respect to a slot (8B) adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
Particularly, the machine (M) includes second retractor means (9), adapted to be inserted in the second cut (6) to keep the corresponding hems (60, 61) separated during the stitching operations.
The second retractor means (9) include (figure 6B, 6C) a protuberance 9A, entering the second cut (6), originating from a dividing device (80) being fastened to a body (81) carried by the structure of the machine; in that device (80), next to the protuberance 9A, a slot 9B is provided adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
The body (81) carries an abutment (82), being height adjustable, whose end (82A) facing downwards is the stop for the lower end (L) of the upper (U). The function of the dividing device (80) is to keep the lower end (L) of the upper and the bottom (1) separated from each other, upstream from the stitching.
Advantageously, the machine (M), thanks to the first and second retractor means (8, 9) allows realizing the stitching (S) in order to join the bottom (1) and the upper (U).
In details, in order to produce the footwear (W), the first retractor means (8) are inserted in the first cut (8), the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) is placed at the second cut (6), whose related hems (60, 61) are kept divided by the second retractor means (9). The lower edge (L) of the upper (U), for example, can be kept in position by the mentioned abutment (82A) being provided in the machine (M), which abuts one of its side (for example, see figure 4A).
Once placed the bottom (1) and the upper (U) as mentioned above, the needle (7) can be actuated to cooperate with the crochet in order to realize the stitching (S) (see figure 4B).
Once actuated, the needle (7) successively pierces first the lower edge (L) of the upper (U), then the mentioned portion (10) of the body (11), passing through the hems (60, 61, 50, 51) of the second cut (6) and of the first cut (5). Thus, it arrives in the crochet to realize a stitch (S).
Clearly once ended the stitching, the upper (U) will be turned inside out (refer to figure 2 and figure 3B).
Referring to figures 4A and 4B, the machine (M) can further include a gathering presser foot (12), being placed upstream from the needle (7) with respect to the mentioned stitching direction, to act on the edge of the upper (U) so that the latter follows the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2).
As known, the gathering presser foot (12) causes an increased advancing of the upper (U) with respect to the one caused by the advancing of the so-called mentioned "stitching pitch", to prepare the upper (U) in advance for the action of the needle (7).
The function of the dividing device (80), which keeps the lower edge (L) of the upper separated form the bottom (1), upstream from the stitching, is extremely advantageous in that it allows the gathering device (18) to optimally carry out its function.
Advantageously, the fact that the second retractor means (9) are carried by the dividing device (80) neither creates hindrances nor complicates the structure of the machine (M).
It should be understood that the above has been described by way of nonlimiting example, therefore any architectural variation is intended to fall within the scope of protection of the present claims.

Claims

A machine to realize a footwear, the latter including an open-type upper (U) and a bottom (1), including a first and second cut (5, 6), from the inside of the related upper surface (4) out respectively, which correspondingly penetrate the body (11) of the bottom itself and develop along related paths following the profile (P) of the perimeter edge 2 of the same bottom (1); said machine further including: first retractor means (8), adapted to be inserted in the first cut (5) to open wide the hems (50, 51) of the latter; second retractor means (9), adapted to be inserted in the second cut (6) to open wide the related hems (60, 61); a needle (7) mobile between a retracted position (R) and an advanced one (A), and vice versa, being adapted to successively penetrate the lower edge (L) of the upper (U) and the portion (10) of the bottom (1) located between said cuts (5, 6) and to enter in a rotating hook device (70) provided to cooperate with the needle itself in order to realize stiches; means adapted to synchronously translate said needle (7) and rotating hook device (70) with an alternating motion according to travels having an amplitude equal to a preset stitching pitch.
The machine according to the previous claim, characterized by including a dividing device (80) adapted to keep the lower edge (L) of said upper (U) and the mentioned bottom (1) separated, upstream from said stitching.
The machine according to the previous claim, characterized in that the mentioned dividing device (80), in the related lower part, forms the mentioned second retractor means (9).
The machine according to any of the previous claim, characterized by including an abutment (82), having an adjustable height, with one end (82A) defining a stop for the lower end (L) of said upper (U).
The machine according to claim 1, characterized in that the first retractor means (8) include two protuberances (8A, 8B) and a slot (8C), interposed therebetween, being adapted to be passed through by the needle (7).
The machine according to claim 1 or 3, characterized in that the mentioned second retractor means (9) include at least one protuberance (9A) and a slot (9B) being adapted to be passed through by the needle (8).
The machine according to claim 2, characterized by further including a gathering presser foot (12), operating upstream from said stitching, adapted to act on the edge of the upper (U) so that the latter follows the profile (P) of the perimeter edge (2) of said bottom (1).