EP3209269A1 - Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques - Google Patents

Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques

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Publication number
EP3209269A1
EP3209269A1 EP15766531.6A EP15766531A EP3209269A1 EP 3209269 A1 EP3209269 A1 EP 3209269A1 EP 15766531 A EP15766531 A EP 15766531A EP 3209269 A1 EP3209269 A1 EP 3209269A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
composition according
weight
mica
pigments
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP15766531.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstantin Goutsis
Gabriele Weser
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3209269A1 publication Critical patent/EP3209269A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • the present application relates to agents for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which are based on an aqueous-alcoholic carrier and which contain color pigments and zwitterionic polymers. Characteristic of these agents is their low content of fatty substances. Another object of this application is a method for color change and styling of the hair, wherein a corresponding agent is sprayed on the hair and the hair are laid at the same time to the hairstyle.
  • oxidation colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents, for example hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long lasting staining results.
  • Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation before; These particles are only attached to the hair fiber from the outside. There they remain until the next hair wash and can be removed without residue by shampooing. Under the name hair mascara, various products of this type are available on the market.
  • hair mascaras As the removal of hair mascaras is possible by shampooing, they are usually designed as "leave-on" products, and it is particularly beneficial for the user of a "leave-on” product to do so simultaneously with the temporary color change a slight temporary Shaping the hair can make.
  • a temporary shapes for example, designs such as curl, smoothing, Toup réelle or consolidation in question.
  • Temporary shapes can be achieved, for example, by styling agents such as hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair fixatives, hair waving, styling sprays, etc.
  • the temporary shaping is also referred to as hair styling or styling, shaping agents are also referred to as styling agents.
  • WO 99/20230 A2 describes hair mascara products which contain pigments together with non-ionic polymers and high-melting waxes.
  • WO 2014/146818 A1 also discloses styling agents with pigments which are distinguished by the presence of solid fatty alcohols and waxes.
  • the fat and wax components contained in these products are usually used to set a certain drying time, through which the consumer experiences the feel of dry hair, but the mascara applied to the hair retains a residual moisture, through which the hairstyle remains malleable and combable.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide a versatile hair mascara product, which allows the temporary color change of hair.
  • the hair mascara should be ready to be applied by means of a sponge, a brush and also by means of a spray application.
  • the color change should be done easily and without damage and be removed by a wash again without residue of the hair.
  • the product on the hair should be highly resistant to external influences, i. neither by abrasion on textiles nor by combing should a color loss or other detachment of the product become visible.
  • the color-changed hair should have a soft touch, not be weighted, not feel hard or greasy, and visually not leave the impression of greasy hair.
  • a first object of the present invention is a means for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier (A) at least one aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms
  • the total amount of the fatty substances contained in the average (d) - based on the total weight of the composition - is below 2.5 wt .-%.
  • Keratinic fibers, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for lightening and dyeing keratin fibers, in principle, there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.
  • temporary color change is understood to mean a temporary coloring of the hair which can be completely or almost completely removed by shampooing (with a commercial shampoo) oxidative coloration carried out with oxidation dyes is also not covered by the term temporary color change caused by the use of an oxidizing lightening, bleaching or
  • the agents contain the essential ingredients of the invention in each case in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
  • aqueous cosmetic carrier may be, for example, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as, for example, shampoos, sprayable solutions, foam aerosols or foam formulations.
  • the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohol having 2 to 8 C atoms.
  • Aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohols having 2 to 8 C atoms are compounds which have 2 to 8 C atoms, are aliphatic and / or aromatic in nature and carry one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the alcohols (a) for the purposes of the present invention do not carry any oxygen
  • heteroatoms may include an ether moiety but, moreover, have no functional groups other than the hydroxy group (i.e., monoethanolamine, alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, dihydroxyacetone, etc. are not alcohols in the sense of the present invention).
  • Suitable aliphatic alcohols are, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol and glycerin.
  • Suitable aromatic alcohols are, for example, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol.
  • an agent according to the invention for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers is characterized in that it comprises one or more alcohols (a) from the Group ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol , Glycerol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol.
  • alcohols (a) from the Group ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexan
  • the alcohols (a) according to the invention are organic solvents which contribute to the dissolution of the zwitterionic polymers (c) and, after application of the agent to the keratinic fiber, speed of film formation of zwitterionic polymers (c)
  • Total amount of all alcohols (a) according to the invention which is related to the total weight of the composition in relation.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - one or more alcohols (a) in one
  • the alcohols from group (a) are compounds which have different boiling points and different degrees of volatility. It has been found that ethanol has the best suitability within this group. If the agents contain significant amounts of ethanol, the pigments deposited on the keratin fiber are enclosed by a polymer film of the zwitterionic polymers (c), which is designed such that the pigments adhere particularly well to the keratin fiber. In this case, the color result is particularly uniform and the abrasion of the pigments caused by friction with textiles is minimized.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, at least 15.0% by weight, preferably at least 25.0% by weight, more preferably at least 35.0% by weight. % and most preferably at least 45.0 wt .-% ethanol.
  • the properties described above can be further improved if a smaller amount of polyhydric alcohol, for example 1, 2-propanediol or glycerol, is added to the ethanol in lesser amounts.
  • polyhydric alcohol for example 1, 2-propanediol or glycerol
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that, based on its total weight, 1,2-propanediol and / or glycerol are present in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.0% by weight, preferably 0 , 5 to 5.5 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 to 3.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1, 5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-%.
  • the agents according to the invention contain all essential constituents in an aqueous carrier. Due to the water content of the agent, the deposition of the pigments on the keratin fibers and the film formation of the zwitterionic polymers (c) can also be influenced.
  • the water content stated in% by weight refers to the amount of water which is contained in the total weight of the composition.
  • a temporary color change agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that, based on its total weight, it has a water content between 20 and 60% by weight, preferably between 24 and 54% by weight, more preferably between 28 and 50 wt .-% and particularly preferably between 32 and 42 wt .-% has.
  • Color change at least one color pigment (b).
  • a pigment is understood to mean a coloring compound which has a solubility of less than 0.1 g / l at 20 ° C. in water.
  • the following method can be used to determine the water solubility of the pigment: 0.1 g of the pigment is weighed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. It is then made up to 1 l with distilled water (20 ° C.). It is stirred for an hour. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.1 g / l.
  • White pigments are non-colored inorganic pigments with a high refractive index (usually greater than 1, 8), which are usually produced synthetically and, above all, under the definition of color pigments for the production of optical whiteness in paints or as a filler in, for example, plastics, white pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide are explicitly excluded from the definition of a colored pigment.
  • the color pigments are present in the form of small undissolved particles which do not diffuse into the hair fiber, but are deposited on the outer wall of the keratin fiber under the influence of the zwitterionic polymer (c) and held there by the polymer film.
  • Suitable color pigments may be organic and / or inorganic origin.
  • the preferred average particle size of the - preferably inorganic - color pigments is 0.1 ⁇ to 1 mm, more preferably from 0.5 ⁇ to 750 ⁇ and in particular 10 ⁇ to 500 ⁇ .
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from inorganic pigments, which may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin may be, for example, chalk, ocher, umber, green soil, terraced terraza or graphite getting produced.
  • black pigments such as inorganic color pigments
  • B. iron oxide black colored pigments such. As ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or Phosphoreszenzpigmente be used.
  • Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdate.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29),
  • Chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or Carmine
  • Color pigments which are particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491 , Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29),
  • Chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • Mica belongs to the layer silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the abovementioned metal oxides.
  • the color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as color pigment (b) at least one inorganic color pigment which is selected from colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or of colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as color pigment (b) at least one colored pigment based on mica or mica, which contains one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (Sodium aluminosulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultra
  • pigments are commercially available, for example under the trade names Rona ®, Colorona® ®, Dichrona® ® and Timiron ® from Merck, ariable ® and Unipure ® by the company Sensient, Prestige ® by the company Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ® from available from Sunstar.
  • color pigments with tradename Unipure ® are for example:
  • the color pigment or pigments (b) can be used in different amounts. The more pigment used, the higher the amount of color change in general. From a certain
  • the agents according to the invention can therefore contain the color pigments (b) in a total amount of from 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 7.0 to 18.0% by weight .-% and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 15.5 wt .-%.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it - based on its total weight - one or more
  • Color pigments (b) in a total amount of 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably 7.0 to 18.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 15.5% by weight.
  • Color change of keratin fibers at least one zwitterionic polymer.
  • polymers are meant macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, more preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
  • the zwitterionic polymers of the present invention are synthetically produced polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer type or by polymerization of various, structurally different from each other monomer types are produced. If the polymer is prepared by polymerization of a monomer type, one speaks of homo-polymers. If structurally different monomer types are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the cationic polymer (d) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
  • Zwitterionic polymers carry both cationic and anionic charges in the polymer chain or in the polymer backbone. If the polymer contains cationic and anionic structural units in equal molar equivalents, the charge balance can be effected exclusively by these charges in the polymer.
  • the zwitterionic polymer contains more cationic moieties than anionic moieties, then the excess cationic charges will be replaced by the presence
  • anions such as chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, acetate or sulfate neutralized.
  • the zwitterionic polymer contains more anionic moieties than cationic moieties, then the excess anionic charges will be replaced by the presence
  • cations such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, ammonium and / or trimethylammonium cations, neutralized.
  • zwitterionic polymers proved, if they contain at least one structural unit of the general formula ( ⁇ ),
  • radical R ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a
  • n is an integer from 2 to 8, preferably 2 or 3, more preferably 3.
  • the neutralization of the positive charge of the structural unit of the formula ( ⁇ ) can be carried out either by a negatively charged structural unit contained in the zwitterionic polymer. But it is also possible that the neutralization of the positive charge of the structural unit of formula ( ⁇ ) by the presence of a counterion X- takes place, wherein X - may stand for a physiologically acceptable anion from the group chloride, bromide, acetate, hydrogen sulfate, V sulfate.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the zwitterionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the general formula (I),
  • radical R 'in stands for a hydrogen atom or for a methyl group, preferably for a
  • n is an integer from 2 to 8, preferably 2 or 3, more preferably 3, and
  • V sulfate Hydrogen sulfate
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the zwitterionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the general formula (I),
  • Structural units of the general formula (I) are formed, for example, when one or more monomers from the group consisting of N, N, N-trimethyl-3 - [(1-oxo-2-) are used in the polymerization to prepare the zwitterionic polymer (c). propenyl) amino] -1-propanaminium chloride or ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1 -ethanaminium chloride. Furthermore, the color pigments (b) adhere well to the keratinic fiber, especially when the zwitterionic polymers (c) used to form the film have at least one
  • the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom
  • the radical M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation of sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.
  • the zwitterionic polymer (c) also contain at least one structural unit of the general formula ( ⁇ )
  • the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.
  • Neutralization of the anionic unit of the formula (II) in the zwitterionic polymer (c) can be effected by the presence of corresponding cationically charged structural units, such as, for example, a structural unit of the formula (II).
  • Structural units of the general formula (II) bwz. ( ⁇ ) form, for example, when in the polymerization for the preparation of the zwitterionic polymer (c) one or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or its salts (such as the sodium salt of (meth) acrylic acid, or the potassium salt of ( Meth) acrylic acid) can be used.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the zwitterionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the general formula (II),
  • the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom
  • the radical M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation of sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the zwitterionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the general formula (II),
  • radical R is a hydrogen atom
  • the radical M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation of sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.
  • the zwitterionic polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the general formula (I) (or ( ⁇ )) and / or at least one structural unit of the general formula (II) (or (II ')) are particularly preferred. The best results were with
  • the structural units of the formula (I) bwz. of the formula (II) represent the repeating units of the polymer, i.
  • a polymer according to the invention therefore contains the structural units of the formula (I) or of the formula (II) not only once but repeatedly.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains a zwitterionic polymer (c) which is at least 20 mol%, preferably at least 30 mol%, more preferably at least 40 mol% and particularly preferably contains at least 50 mol% of structural units of the formula (I).
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains a zwitterionic polymer (c) which is at least 20 mol%, preferably at least 30 mol%, more preferably at least 40 mol% and particularly preferably contains at least 50 mol% of structural units of the formula (II).
  • a polymer with the CAS number 154245-39-3 is prepared by reaction of the two monomers sodium acrylate (sodium salt of acrylic acid) and trimethylammoniopropylacrylamide chlorides (alternative name: N, N, N-trimethyl-3 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanaminium chlorides).
  • the polymer is sold commercially, for example, under the trade name Product W 37194 by Bozzetto GmbH.
  • keratinic fibers could be dyed in metallic shiny colors, which were characterized by particularly good rub fastnesses.
  • Chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510) is coated and
  • the total amount of the fatty substances contained in the average (d) - based on the total weight of the composition - is below 2.5 wt .-%.
  • the agents according to the invention usually contain the zwitterionic polymer (s) (c) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 1, 4 to 2.6 wt .-%.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, one or more zwitterionic polymers (c) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 1, 4 to 2.6 wt .-%.
  • the amounts of color pigments (b) and zwitterionic polymers (c) are advantageously matched to one another.
  • color pigments (b) and zwitterionic polymers (c) are used in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 6.0, the majority of the pigments can be effectively bound via the polymer film and immobilized on the fiber in this way.
  • the average total amount of the pigments (b) is related to the total amount of zwitterionic polymers (c) contained in the average.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the weight ratio of all colorant-containing color pigments (b) to all zwitterionic (c) agents present in the composition (c), i. the weight ratio (b) / (c) at a value of 1.0 to 6.0, preferably 2.0 to 5.5, more preferably 2.5 to 5.0, and particularly preferably 3.0 to 4.5 is located.
  • the known from the prior art hair mascara products usually contain fatty substances; these fatty substances form a film on the keratin fibers, which protects the pigments from abrasion after use.
  • the main disadvantage of the fatty substances is that they produce a little favorable feel on the keratin fiber, which manifests itself in particular in a feeling of hardness and greasy hair sensation.
  • the keratin fibers have a heavy weight and visually give the impression of greasy hair.
  • the total amount of fatty substances (d) present on the average, based on the total weight of the composition is less than 2.5% by weight.
  • fatty substances are organic compounds having a solubility in water at room temperature (22 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • Fat ingredients are explicitly only uncharged (i.e., nonionic) compounds. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not understood as a fat ingredient. Fats have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms.
  • the molecular weight of the fat constituents is at most 5000 g / mol, preferably at most 2500 g / mol and more preferably at a maximum of 1000 g / mol.
  • Fat constituents are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated
  • Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having 12 to 30 carbon atoms act.
  • Examples of C 12 -C 30 -fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecane-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol , Stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl (docosan-1-ol).
  • branched fatty alcohols examples include 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
  • fatty substances (d) are also Ci2-C3o fatty acid triglycerides.
  • a Ci2-C3o-fatty acid triglyceride is understood to mean the triester of the trivalent alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule in the ester formations.
  • the fatty substances also include C12-C30 fatty acid diglycerides.
  • Ci2-C3o fatty acid diglyceride is understood as meaning the diester of the trivalent alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a diglyceride molecule can be involved in the ester formation.
  • the fatty substances also include C12-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides.
  • a C12-C30 fatty acid monoglyceride is understood as meaning the monoester of the trivalent alcohol Glyceirn with one equivalent of fatty acid.
  • the diesters also comprise one equivalent of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol) with two equivalents of fatty acid (ethylene glycol difatty acid ester). Both structurally identical and different fatty acids can be involved in the ester bonds with the ethylene glycol.
  • the fatty substances (d) also include waxes.
  • Waxing means the esters of C12-C30 fatty acids with C12-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty substances (d) also include hydrocarbons having at least 12 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrocarbons are exclusively compounds consisting of the atoms carbon and hydrogen. Examples of hydrocarbons are mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g.
  • Paraffinium Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum Paraffinum Perliquidum
  • isoparaffin oils semi-solid paraffin oils
  • paraffin waxes paraffin waxes
  • hard paraffin Paraffinum Solidum
  • Vaseline Polydecene
  • Silicones are not included in the definition of fatty substances.
  • According to the invention therefore is a means for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • Hydrocarbons at a value below 2.5 wt .-% is.
  • the total amount of the fatty substances (d) on average at a value below 2.0 wt .-%, preferably below 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably below 0.5 wt .-% and more preferably below 0.1% by weight.
  • Weight data refers to the total amount of all fatty substances (d), which is related to the total weight of the agent.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the total amount of all fatty substances (d) present in the middle, in particular the fatty substances from the group of C 12 -30 fatty alcohols, C 12 -30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12-C 30 fatty acid diglycerides, C 12-C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, ethylene glycol difatty acid esters, waxes and hydrocarbons at a value below 2.0% by weight, preferably below 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably below 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably below 0.1 wt .-%.
  • an agent for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier is particularly preferred.
  • Hydrocarbons at a value below 0.5 wt .-% is.
  • Hydrocarbons at a value below 0.5 wt .-% is.
  • the agents are provided as aqueous-alcoholic preparations. If appropriate, the agents may additionally be admixed with a further surface-active substance, such surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant and / or one cationic surfactant. The use of anionic surfactants has proved to be of little advantage.
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having good properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol which have been reacted with at least 2 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • the nonionic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, ie surface-active compounds, each having one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Usually, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, wherein the hydrophobic part usually consists of a hydrocarbon skeleton (eg consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are examples of cationic surfactants.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry as hydrophobic radicals one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms
  • the cationic charge may also be in the form of an onium structure as part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring).
  • the cationic surfactant may also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case with esterquats, for example.
  • the cationic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • anionic surfactants has been found to be negative in terms of the abrasion resistance of the pigments on the keratin fibers. For this reason, it is preferred not to use anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Anionic surfactants are surfactants with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding counter cation).
  • anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 12 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the total amount of all anionic surfactants present in the composition is below 2.5% by weight, preferably below 1.5% by weight, more preferably below 0, 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably below 0.1 wt .-% - wherein all quantities are based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant.
  • Suitable zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a variety of forms. When applied over a sponge or a small brush very uniform color effects and rubbed dyeings can be achieved. Likewise, however, it is also possible to formulate the compositions according to the invention as a spray. In particular, the dyeings obtained by the spray application are characterized by a very high uniformity.
  • the agents according to the invention are adjusted to a specific viscosity. This is usually done by using one or more thickeners. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • Suitable thickening agents are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives (other than the celluloses of the invention) such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickening agents, in particular phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite.
  • naturally occurring thickeners such
  • the viscosity of the compositions can be adjusted particularly easily and reproducibly by polysaccharides, in particular polysaccharides from the group of the carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl celluloses, the hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkyl celluloses, the alginic acids and / or xanthan gum.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains as thickener at least one polysaccharide from the group of the carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl-celluloses, the hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses, the alginic acids and / or Contains xanthan gum.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains as thickener at least one polysaccharide from the group of hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses.
  • the thickener or thickeners may in the inventive compositions in a total amount of 0.1 to 4.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.15 to 3.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent - are used.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain one or more of
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the desired pH values can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids and inorganic alkalizing agents such as (earth) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal metasilicates, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and ( Earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more acids. Suitable acids include, for example, organic acids such as alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids or inorganic acids.
  • the agents may contain one or more nonionic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF). Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, respectively
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone as sold for example under the name Luviskol® (BASF).
  • agents (V) and / or (F) one or more polymers from the group
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, linear cationic polymers, such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallyl- ammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylamino-ethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (other than the zwitterionic polymers of the invention); anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective compositions.
  • the products according to the invention can be formulated, for example, in the form of a gel, a spray, an aerosol or a pump foam. Depending on the application, they are therefore preferably filled in a tube, a container, a bottle, a can, a pressure vessel or in a container with pump spray applicator.
  • the pigments can be applied evenly to the keratin fibers.
  • the preparation as an aerosol or as a pump spray is therefore very particularly preferred.
  • the product according to the invention comprises a pressure vessel.
  • pressurized gas containers come vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, tin), protected or non-splitterndem plastic or glass, which is coated with plastic on the outside, in their selection pressure and fracture resistance, corrosion resistance, easy fillability as well as aesthetic aspects, handiness, printability etc. play a role.
  • Special internal protective lacquers can guarantee corrosion resistance to the preparation contained in the pressure vessel.
  • the agents additionally contain at least one propellant from the group of propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, air, Nitrogen, argon, N2O and / or CO2.
  • the permanent gases air, nitrogen, argon, N2O and / or CO2 are preferred, most preferably nitrogen, argon and / or CO2.
  • agents according to the invention can also be applied in the form of a pump spray.
  • Suitable containers with pump or squeeze mechanism are commercially available from Rexam SMT or Seaquist, for example.
  • the user can spray the compositions according to the invention directly onto the dry hair and in this way produce the desired temporary color change.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the temporary color and shape change of hair, wherein an agent of the first subject of the invention, which is formulated in the form of a pump spray or aerosol spray, is sprayed onto the dry hair and the hair is pre-formed or during the application to the hairstyle is placed.
  • the formulation was applied to a dry lock of hair (Kerlinggnablond) by means of a sponge. It was obtained a uniformly colored strand with golden shimmer.
  • the formulation was applied to a dry strand of hair (Kerling MUSTblond) with a small brush. It was obtained a uniformly colored strand with golden shimmer.
  • the formulation was placed in a pump-spray nebulizer and sprayed on a dry strand of hair (Kerling Sprintblond). It was obtained a uniformly colored strand with golden shimmer.

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Abstract

L'invention a pour objet un agent pour modifier temporairement la couleur de fibres kératiniques, notamment de cheveux humains, contenant dans un support cosmétique aqueux : (a) au moins un alcool aliphatique et/ou aromatique comprenant de 2 à 8 atomes de C ; (b) au moins un pigment de couleur ; et (c) au moins un polymère zwitterionique, la quantité totale des corps gras (d) contenus dans l'agent prenant une valeur - rapportée au poids total de l'agent - inférieure à 2,5 % en poids.
EP15766531.6A 2014-10-23 2015-09-22 Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques Ceased EP3209269A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102014221535.8A DE102014221535A1 (de) 2014-10-23 2014-10-23 Temporäre Farbveränderung von Haaren mit Pigmenten, Alkoholen und zwitterionischen Polymeren
PCT/EP2015/071725 WO2016062485A1 (fr) 2014-10-23 2015-09-22 Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques

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EP3209269A1 true EP3209269A1 (fr) 2017-08-30

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US (1) US10105308B2 (fr)
EP (1) EP3209269A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102014221535A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016062485A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3087653B1 (fr) 2018-10-25 2020-10-09 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant au moins un copolymere acrylique silicone et au moins un pigment
FR3087654B1 (fr) * 2018-10-25 2020-10-09 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant au moins un copolymere acrylique cationique et au moins un pigment
DE102019208907A1 (de) * 2019-06-19 2020-12-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material mit Aminosilikonen und Pigmenten in speziellen Gewichtsverhältnissen

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JP2837196B2 (ja) * 1989-10-26 1998-12-14 三菱化学株式会社 毛髪用一時着色料組成物
JPH0769849A (ja) * 1993-09-01 1995-03-14 Mitsubishi Pencil Co Ltd 染毛料
US5679114A (en) * 1995-09-22 1997-10-21 Redmond Products, Inc. Methods of temporarily coloring the hair with compositions which contain a polymer and a metal containing pigment
TW505521B (en) * 1997-06-25 2002-10-11 Kao Corp Hair cosmetics
JPH11124319A (ja) * 1997-10-20 1999-05-11 Shiseido Co Ltd カラー毛髪化粧料
DE19746468A1 (de) 1997-10-21 1999-04-22 Henkel Kgaa Haar-Masara
US20050142084A1 (en) 2003-12-29 2005-06-30 Sanjoy Ganguly Cosmetic compositions containing nacreous pigments of large sized synthetic mica
JP2005239626A (ja) * 2004-02-26 2005-09-08 Kanebo Cosmetics Inc ジェル状一時染毛料組成物
JP5243708B2 (ja) * 2006-09-05 2013-07-24 株式会社トキワ 一時染毛料
JP4963581B2 (ja) * 2006-09-05 2012-06-27 花王株式会社 一時染毛料の製造方法
DE102010003263A1 (de) * 2010-03-25 2011-09-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verdickende Oxidationszubereitungen
DE102013204685A1 (de) 2013-03-18 2014-10-02 Beiersdorf Ag Haarstylingemulsion

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DE102014221535A1 (de) 2016-04-28
US10105308B2 (en) 2018-10-23
US20170216184A1 (en) 2017-08-03

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