EP3651856A1 - Produits cosmétiques résistant à l'eau pour la modification temporaire de la couleur de matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Produits cosmétiques résistant à l'eau pour la modification temporaire de la couleur de matières kératiniques

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Publication number
EP3651856A1
EP3651856A1 EP18742418.9A EP18742418A EP3651856A1 EP 3651856 A1 EP3651856 A1 EP 3651856A1 EP 18742418 A EP18742418 A EP 18742418A EP 3651856 A1 EP3651856 A1 EP 3651856A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
structural unit
formula
alkyl group
cosmetic
group
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18742418.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstantin Goutsis
Daniela Kessler-Becker
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3651856A1 publication Critical patent/EP3651856A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8188—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bonds, and at least one being terminated by a bond to sulfur or by a hertocyclic ring containing sulfur; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5428—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge amphoteric or zwitterionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/621—Coated by inorganic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651—The particulate/core comprising inorganic material

Definitions

  • the application relates to the technical field of water-resistant temporary color change of keratin-containing materials, in particular human skin and / or human hair.
  • the application relates to cosmetic compositions containing at least one anionic polymer A based on acrylic acid and acrylates, at least one amphoteric polymer B and at least one pigment.
  • the subject of the present application are processes for the temporary coloring of keratin fibers and the skin using these agents as well as the use of a combination of anionic polymer A and amphoteric polymer B in pigment-containing cosmetic products to improve the water resistance of these agents.
  • Oxidation dye precursors so-called developer components and coupler components, which under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, among themselves form the actual dyes.
  • Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting dyeing results.
  • the tanning of the skin may, for example, be done using dyes that penetrate the skin layers and cause prolonged browning.
  • active ingredients are used which penetrate the skin and decompose the age-related melanin accumulations. Again, a long-lasting change the skin color, which is difficult or impossible to remove by cleaning the skin can be achieved.
  • Color pigments known. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation before and are deposited only from the outside on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can be removed without residue by a single wash with surfactant-containing cleaning agents. Under the name hair mascara, various products of this type are available on the market.
  • the hair mascaras can be removed by shampooing, they are usually designed as "leave-on" products, and it is of particular benefit to the user of a "leave-on” product if, at the same time as the temporary color change a slight temporary shaping of the hair can make.
  • a temporary shapes for example, designs such as curl, smoothing, Toup réelle or consolidation in question.
  • Temporary shapes can be achieved, for example, by styling agents such as hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair fixatives, hair waving, styling sprays, etc.
  • the temporary shaping is also referred to as hair styling or styling, shaping agents are also referred to as styling agents.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide a versatile mascara product, which allows the temporary color change of hair and / or the skin.
  • the product should be ready to be applied by means of a sponge, a brush or a spray application.
  • the color change should be easy and
  • the product on the keratin surface should be opposite to the outer one
  • Oxidizing dyes and direct dyes or bleaching with oxidizing agents only to a temporary coloration of the keratinic surfaces, especially the skin and / or hair.
  • a first subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one anionic polymer A comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of
  • R 1, R 3 and R 5 in each case independently of one another, are hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 2 is a branched saturated C 6 -C 12 -alkyl group
  • R4 represents a branched saturated C 2 -C 8 -alkyl group
  • R 6 represents hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl group, and A and X, in each case independently of one another, represent oxygen, sulfur or an NH group,
  • At least one amphoteric polymer B comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (IV) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V)
  • R 7 and R 9 in each case independently of one another, are hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • Rs is a linear saturated C 1 -C 30 -alkyl group
  • R 10 and R 11 are a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and c) at least one pigment.
  • an atomic bond preferably proceeds in each case from the positions of the structural fragments marked with the symbol "*" to further structural fragments
  • anionic polymers is understood to mean those polymers which carry in a protic solvent under standard conditions at least one structural unit having permanently anionic groups, the anionic groups having to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality Groups fall according to the invention in particular carboxyl groups.
  • amphoteric polymers are understood as meaning those polymers which carry in a protic solvent under standard conditions at least one permanently anionic and at least one permanently cationic group Group may be within the same structural unit or in different
  • Structural units of the polymer are located.
  • Preferred amphoteric groups are alkylamine oxides.
  • Total weight of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention wherein the sum of all ingredients of the inventive compositions 100 wt .-% results. If the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one propellant, the term% by weight refers to the total weight of the cosmetic agent including the propellant present.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains at least one anionic polymer A comprising at least one structural unit of the formulas (I) to (III).
  • the radicals R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 may be C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups. Examples of such groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl groups.
  • Structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) are branched C2-Ci2-alkyl groups. Such groups are for example tert-butyl, isobutyl and 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl.
  • the radical R6 in the structural formula (III) may represent a C 2 -C 8 hydroxyalkyl group. Such groups include, for example, 2-hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl and hydroxypentyl groups.
  • radicals R 1, R 3 and R 5 in the formulas (I) to (III) are preferred for certain groups. Preferred embodiments of this
  • Subject matter of the invention are therefore characterized in that in the structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) the radicals R 1 and R 3, in each case independently of one another, represent a methyl group and that in the structural unit of the formula (III) the radical R 5 is hydrogen. Therefore, preference is given to using anionic polymers based on methacrylates, methacrylamides, acrylic acid and acrylates. The use of such anionic polymers in combination with the amphoteric polymer B leads to a particularly high water resistance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the radical R 2 in the structural unit of the formula (I) represents certain groups. It is therefore preferred that in the structural unit of the formula (I), the radical R 2 is a branched saturated C 6 -C 10 -alkyl group, in particular a * -C (CH 3) 2-CH 2 -C (CH 2) 3 group.
  • the * symbol indicates the linkage of the radical R 2 with the group A of the structural unit of the formula (I).
  • the radical R 2 is thus bonded via the CH 2 group to the group A of the structural unit of the formula (I).
  • A is in each case an NH group.
  • Preferred anionic polymers therefore contain acrylamides and methacrylamides.
  • Methacrylamides in combination with the amphoteric polymer B leads to an improved resistance to external environmental influences, without, however, negatively influencing the washability with surfactant-containing cleaning agents.
  • the group X in the structural unit of the formula (III) is an oxygen atom. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if X in the structural unit of the formula (III) is an oxygen atom.
  • the anionic polymer A therefore preferably contains as structural unit of the formula (III) acrylic acid and its esters or methacrylic acid and esters thereof.
  • the radical R4 in the structural unit of the formula (II) represents a branched saturated C 2 -C 5 -alkyl group. However, it is preferred according to the invention, when the radical R4 is certain branched saturated C2-Cs-Alkly phenomenon. Preferred embodiments of the first
  • the radical R4 is a branched saturated C 2 -C 5 -alkyl group, in particular a * -C (CH 3) 3 group.
  • the * symbol indicates the linkage of the radical R4 with the group A of the structural unit of the formula (II).
  • the radical R4 is thus bonded via the tertiary carbon atom to the group A of the structural unit of the formula (II).
  • the structural units of the formula (III) are preferably acrylic acid or
  • the anionic polymer A contains further structural units based on acrylates and methacrylates.
  • Preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention are therefore characterized in that the anionic polymer A additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (IIIa),
  • R5 ' is hydrogen or a methyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R6 ' represents a methyl group contains.
  • anionic polymers A which in addition to the structural units of the formulas (I) to (III) additionally a further structural unit of the formula (IIIa) based on acrylates and
  • Containing methacrylates, in combination with the at least one amphoteric polymer B has proven to be particularly advantageous in terms of water resistance of the cosmetic compositions, but without negatively affecting the complete removability with surfactant-containing cleaning agents.
  • the anionic polymer A further comprises a structural unit (IIIb) based on 2-hydroxypropyl acrylates and / or 2 - contains hydroxypropyl methacrylates. It is therefore particularly preferred according to the invention if the anionic polymer A additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (IIIb)
  • R5 is hydrogen or a methyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R6 "represents a 2-hydroxypropyl group contains.
  • anionic polymers A which in addition to the structural units of the formulas (I) to (III) and (IIIa) additionally contains a further structural unit of the formula (IIIb) based on 2-hydroxypropyl acrylates and / or 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylates, has been described in Combination with the at least one amphoteric polymer B is particularly advantageous with respect to
  • anionic polymers A which are the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the same as the
  • Structural units (I) to (III) and (IIIa) and (IIIb) contain.
  • anionic polymers A are therefore used with particular advantage which contain at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III), at least one structural unit of the formula (IIIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIIb)
  • R5 and R6, each independently of one another, are hydrogen
  • R5 'and R5 " each independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R 2 is a * -C (CH 3 ) 2-CH 2 -C (CH 2) 3 group
  • R4 is a * -C (CH3) 3 group
  • A is an NH group
  • R6 ' represents a methyl group
  • R6 "represents a 2-hydroxypropyl group.
  • anionic polymers A has proven in combination with the amphoteric polymer B to be particularly advantageous in terms of resistance to external environmental influences on the one hand and the washability of the cosmetic compositions of the invention by surfactant-containing cleaning agents on the other hand. Therefore, the use of such anionic polymers A in combination with amphoteric polymers B in pigment-containing cosmetics results in a water-resistant temporary coloring of keratinic surfaces, which can be removed by a single use of surfactant-containing cleaning agents. In addition, a high and flexible hairstyle hold, which does not stick together when exposed to moisture and therefore leaves an unnatural impression, can be achieved with this polymer combination.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise the at least one anionic polymer A in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1, 0 to 5.5% by weight. -%, In particular from 1, 0 to 2.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the use of these amounts of the anionic polymer A in combination with the amphoteric polymer B results in high durability against external environmental influences, but without adversely affecting the applicability of these agents and the storage stability.
  • these amounts of polymer in means for simultaneous temporary color and shape change of hair is in addition to a
  • water-resistant coloring also allows a high and flexible hairstyle hold.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains at least one amphoteric polymer B which contains at least one structural unit of the formulas (IV) and (V).
  • the radical Rs may be a linear C 1 -C 30 -alkyl group. Examples of such groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, capryl, caprine, lauryl, myristyl and stearyl groups.
  • Formulas (IV) and (V) for certain groups Preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention are therefore characterized in that in the structural units of the formulas (IV) and (V) the radicals R 7 and R 9, in each case independently of one another, are a methyl group. Preferred are therefore amphoteric polymers B based on methacrylates and
  • Methacrylaminoxiden used.
  • amphoteric polymers B used in combination with the above-mentioned anionic polymers A leads to a particularly high
  • radical Rs in the structural unit of the formula (IV) represents certain groups. It is therefore preferred that in the structural unit of the formula (IV) the radical Rs is a methyl group.
  • amphoteric polymers B, which contain methyl methacrylate, in combination with the preferred anionic polymers A has proven to be particularly advantageous with respect to
  • amphoteric polymers B therefore contain at least one structural unit based on methacrylamine oxides.
  • amphoteric polymers B based on methacrylamines leads in combination with the above-mentioned anionic polymers A to an improved resistance to external environmental influences, but without negatively influencing the leachability with surfactant-containing cleaning agents.
  • amphoteric polymer B contains further structural units based on methacrylates. if the amphoteric polymer B additionally at least one
  • R7 ' represents a methyl group
  • Rs' is a linear saturated cis-alkyl group contains.
  • amphoteric polymers B which in addition to the structural units of the formulas (IV) and (V) additionally contains a further structural unit of the formula (IVa) based on stearyl methacrylate, has been found to be particularly advantageous in combination with the at least one anionic polymer A mentioned above proven advantageous in terms of water resistance of the cosmetic products, but without adversely affecting the complete removability surfactant-containing detergents.
  • Amphoteric polymers B which contain at least one structural unit of the formula (IV), at least one structural unit of the formula (IVa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) are accordingly particularly advantageously used
  • R7, R7 'and Rs each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • Rs' represents a linear saturated cis-alkyl group
  • amphoteric polymers B based on methyl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate and Ethylaminoxidmethacrylat has in combination with the aforementioned anionic
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise the at least one amphoteric polymer B in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1, 0 to 5.5% by weight. -%, In particular from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the
  • water-resistant coloring also allows a high and flexible hairstyle hold.
  • the anionic polymer A and the amphoteric polymer B are used in certain weight ratios.
  • Preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention are therefore characterized in that the cosmetic agent has a weight ratio of the at least one anionic polymer A to the at least one amphoteric polymer B of 4: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 1, in particular of 1: 0.75.
  • the above-mentioned weight ratio refers here to the total amounts of polymer A and polymer B.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. Pigments in the context of the present invention are colored
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention should preferably lead to a temporary coloration in the form of "metallic” effects, which is why the white pigments do not fall under the definition of the color pigment
  • White pigments are non-aqueous inorganic pigments with a high level of color
  • Refractive index i.d.R greater than 1, 8
  • White pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide are therefore explicitly excluded from the definition of the color pigment.
  • the color pigments are present in the form of small undissolved particles which do not diffuse into the keratinic surface, but which accumulate in the polymer film formed by component b) on the outside of the keratinic surface.
  • Suitable color pigments may be organic and / or inorganic origin. Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be prepared, for example, from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, baked Terra di Siena or graphite. Furthermore, as inorganic color pigments black pigments such. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. As ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or Phosphoreszenzpigmente be used.
  • the cosmetic agent contains, as color pigment (b), at least one inorganic color pigment selected from (i) colored metal oxides, (ii) metal hydroxides, (iii) metal oxide hydrates, (iv) silicates, (v) metal sulfides, (vi) complex metal cyanides, (vii)
  • Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdate.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or Carmine (Cochineal).
  • Color pigments which are particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and may be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layer silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides may also be used as pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the abovementioned metal oxides.
  • the color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • the at least one pigment is a mica or mica-based colored pigment which is combined with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492 ), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or Iron Blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510) is coated.
  • titanium dioxide CI 77891
  • black iron oxide CI 77499
  • yellow iron oxide CI 77492
  • red and / or brown iron oxide Cl 77491, Cl 77499
  • manganese violet Cl 77742
  • ultramarines sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29
  • Further particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are, for example:
  • color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
  • Color pigments whose surface has been rendered hydrophobic, particularly suitable. It has been found that these pigments are particularly useful in the
  • Suitable hydrophobizing agents are, for example, silicones.
  • Hydrophobic surface-treated color pigments are described, for example, in DE 102009051 171, the contents of which are expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the pigments used have a certain particle size.
  • this particle size leads to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the polymer film formed and, on the other hand, avoids a rough hair or skin feeling after the application of the cosmetic product.
  • the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of from 1.0 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably from 5.0 to 45 ⁇ m, preferably from 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular from 14 to 30 ⁇ m ,
  • the average particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
  • the at least one color pigment c) can be used in different amounts.
  • the more color pigment used the higher the amount of color change in general. From a certain amount of use, however, the adhesion of the pigments to the keratin fiber runs against one Limit from which it is no longer possible to increase the extent of color change by further increasing the amount of pigment used.
  • the at least one pigment is present in a total amount of from 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0 to 18.0% by weight, in particular from 8.5 to 15.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic product is included.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment in the context of the first subject of the invention are therefore cosmetic compositions for the temporary deformation of keratinous fibers containing
  • At least one anionic polymer A comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IIIa) and at least one
  • R5 and R6, each independently of one another, are hydrogen
  • R5 'and R5 " each independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R 2 is a * -C (CH 3 ) 2-CH 2 -C (CH 2) 3 group
  • R4 is a * -C (CH3) 3 group
  • A is an NH group
  • R6 ' represents a methyl group
  • R6 represents a 2-hydroxypropyl group
  • at least one amphoteric polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (IV), at least one structural unit of the formula (IVa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V)
  • R7, R7 'and Rs each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • Rs' represents a linear saturated cis-alkyl group
  • metal oxides selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sul
  • Such cosmetic agents have a high resistance to external environmental influences, such as rain, sweat, abrasion through textiles and combs, and can still be removed without residue by a single application of surfactant-containing cleaning agents.
  • surfactant-containing cleaning agents When applied to keratinic fibers, especially hair, an excellent degree of hold and high moisture resistance is also achieved.
  • the high moisture resistance avoids sticking of the hair when exposed to moisture.
  • these agents When applied to the skin, these agents have good cosmetic properties and do not result in dry or oily skin.
  • the agents according to the invention contain all the essential constituents in a carrier.
  • aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic and alcoholic carriers can be used as carriers.
  • Particular preference is given to using alcoholic carriers.
  • Such carriers contain at least one aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms in one
  • Total amount of 40 to 98 wt .-% preferably from 50 to 95 wt .-%, preferably from 60 to 90 wt .-%, in particular from 70 to 90 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is advantageous according to the invention if certain aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohols are used as the carrier.
  • the aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms is selected from the group ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3 Propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol,
  • Ethanol is particularly preferably used as alcoholic carrier. It has been found that the use of ethanol leads to a particularly good film formation and thus to a particularly high adhesion of the pigments on the keratinic surface. In this case that is
  • ethanol is used in a total amount of from 40 to 98% by weight, preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, in particular from 70 to 90% by weight, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
  • the properties described above can be improved even further by adding to the ethanol another polyhydric alcohol of lower volatility, for example 1, 2-propanediol or glycerol.
  • the water content of the carrier also influences the deposition of the pigments on the keratinic surfaces and the film formation of the anionic polymer A and amphoteric polymer B. If the water content is too high, there is a risk that the product will not dry sufficiently quickly. In particular, when the agents are adjusted to a lower viscosity (for example, because they are to be sprayed), the color result may be uneven. It is therefore preferred according to the invention, when the cosmetic agent in a water
  • the cosmetic agents of the present invention can be used for the simultaneous temporary color and shape change of keratinic fibers, especially hair.
  • these agents can be used for temporary color change of the skin.
  • they can be made up in customary forms, for example as gel, spray, foam or wax. Preference is given to the preparation as a spray.
  • Such sprays may be in the form of aerosols and non-aerosols and sprayed from containers known to those skilled in the art. If the agents are formulated as aerosols, at least one propellant is additionally contained.
  • Propellants which are suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2, air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Very particular preference is given to using dimethyl ether as blowing agent.
  • the present invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.
  • blowing agents are preferably contained in a total amount of 30 to 70 wt .-%, preferably from 35 to 75 wt .-%, in particular from 40 to 60 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the known from the prior art mascara products usually contain fatty substances. These fatty substances may also form a film on the keratinic surfaces which will protect the pigments from abrasion or washing off with water after use.
  • the main disadvantage of the fatty substances is that they produce a less favorable feel on the keratinic surface, which manifests itself in particular in a feeling of hardness and greasy feeling.
  • the keratinous surface is weighted and visually gives a greasy impression.
  • the cosmetic products contain only a small proportion of fatty substances.
  • Preferred embodiments of the first subject of the invention are therefore characterized in that the cosmetic agent fatty substances in a total amount of 0 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0 to 1, 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0 to 0.5 wt. -%, more preferably from 0 to 0.1 wt .-%, in particular of 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • fatty substances are organic compounds having a solubility in water at room temperature (22 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the definition of fat constituents explicitly includes only uncharged (ie nonionic) compounds, and charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered to be
  • fatty substances have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having at least 12 carbon atoms. If the fatty substances contain an unsaturated alkyl group, this may have one or more double bonds.
  • the molecular weight of the fat constituents is at most 5000 g / mol, preferably at most 2500 g / mol and more preferably at a maximum of 1000 g / mol.
  • the fat components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds. Therefore, fatty alcohols or fatty acids, which are esterified or etherified with at least two oxyalkyl groups or with at least two glycerol units, not under the definition of the fatty substances.
  • Fatty substances which are preferably contained in a total amount of at most 2.5 wt .-%, are selected from the group of (i) Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols; (ii) C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides; (iii) diesters of one equivalent of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol) with two equivalents of fatty acid (ethylene glycol difatty acid ester); (iv) waxes; (v) hydrocarbons having at least 12 C atoms; and (vi) their mixtures.
  • Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of such Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol
  • Palmityl alcohol octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
  • Examples of branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
  • Ci2-C3o fatty acid triglycerides are understood as meaning mono-, di- and triesters of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid.
  • Waxes are understood to mean the esters of C 12 -30 fatty acids with C 12 -30 fatty alcohols.
  • hydrocarbons are compounds which are
  • Hydrocarbons are mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., Paraffinum Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, Paraffin Solidum, Vaseline and Polydecene. Silicones, on the other hand, are not included in the definition of fatty substances.
  • the fatty substances which are not included or in the abovementioned quantitative ranges are therefore preferably selected from the group of C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, ethylene glycol difatty acid ester, waxes, hydrocarbons and their mixtures.
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 2) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Pigment c 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Anionic polymer A 5 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 6 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 7) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 3 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 3 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 4) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric polymer B 2 > 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Anionic polymer A 5 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric polymer B 2 > 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 6 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric polymer B 7 > 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c 1.0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 4) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 2) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1.0 to 5.5 1.0 to 2.0 Pigment c) 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic Carrier 9 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 5 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 2) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic Carrier 9 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric polymer B 6 > 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric polymer B 7 > 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 2) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 4) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 2) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 > 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Anionic polymer A 5 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.5
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 2 2) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 > 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 6 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • Amphoteric Polymer B 7) 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 8.0 1, 0 to 5.5 1, 0 to 2.0
  • Pigment c) 8 > 1, 0 to 25 5.0 to 20 7.0 to 18 8.5 to 15.5
  • Cosmetic carrier 9) Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100
  • R2 branched saturated C6-Ci2-alkyl group
  • R4 branched saturated C2-C5-alkyl group
  • R6 Is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl group
  • R s linear saturated C 1 -C 30 -alkyl group
  • Manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510) are coated,
  • the embodiments AF 1 to AF80 contain 0 wt .-% fatty substances selected from the group of Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols, the Ci2-C3o-fatty acid triglycerides, Ci2-C3o fatty acid diglycerides, the C12-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, the ethylene glycol difatty acid ester, waxes, hydrocarbons and their mixtures. Furthermore, these embodiments contain water in one
  • Polymer combination for a high hold and high flexibility of the polymer film formed When applying these funds on the hair is therefore achieved in addition to a temporary color change at the same time a high and moisture-resistant hold.
  • these agents have good cosmetic properties after their application to the skin and hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain other ingredients.
  • the group of these other ingredients includes, in particular, cosmetically-effective auxiliaries and additives, such as surfactants, conditioners, thickeners and pH regulators.
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid proved. Preparations having good properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol which have been reacted with at least 2 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • the nonionic surfactants are used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, ie surface-active compounds, each having one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Usually, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, wherein the hydrophobic part usually consists of a hydrocarbon skeleton (eg consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are examples of cationic surfactants.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds which as hydrophobic radicals can carry one or two alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms,
  • quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms or
  • the cationic charge may also be in the form of an onium structure as part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring).
  • the cationic surfactant may also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with esterquats.
  • the cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • anionic surfactants has been found to be negative in terms of the abrasion resistance of the pigments on the keratin fibers. For this reason, it is preferable in the
  • inventive agents do not use anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactants surfactants with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a
  • agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain anionic surfactants in a total amount of from 0 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 0.5% by weight. -%, more preferably from 0 to 0.1 wt .-%, in particular of 0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition containing.
  • the agents according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant.
  • Suitable zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. used.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized by a very high
  • the agents according to the invention are adjusted to a specific viscosity. This is usually done by using one or more thickeners. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • Suitable thickeners are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners, such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, such as
  • Methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses include butylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickening agents, in particular phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite.
  • the viscosity of the compositions can be adjusted in a particularly simple and reproducible manner by polysaccharides, in particular polysaccharides from the group of the carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl celluloses, the hydroxy-C 2 -C -alkyl celluloses, the alginic acids and / or xanthan gum.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains as thickener at least one polysaccharide from the group of the carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkylcelluloses, the hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses, the alginic acids and / or Contains xanthan gum.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains as thickener at least one polysaccharide from the group of hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses.
  • the thickener or thickeners may in the inventive compositions in a total amount of 0.1 to 4.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.15 to 3.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent - are used.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain one or more of
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the desired pH values can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids and inorganic alkalizing agents such as (earth) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal metasilicates, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more acids. Suitable acids are, for example, organic acids such as alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids or inorganic acids.
  • the agents may contain one or more nonionic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: Vinylpyrrolidone vinyl ester copolymers,
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example linear cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (other than the polymers of the invention); anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, lecithin and cephalins; Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and
  • linear cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, diethyl s
  • cyclodextrins fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; Dyes for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolysates on animal and / or vegetable basis, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; Sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidin
  • the choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents.
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the user can spray the compositions according to the invention directly onto the dry hair or the skin and in this way produce the desired temporary color change.
  • the user can first - for example, by combing, Toupieren, or by the application of a curling iron - bring his hairstyle in the form and then spray the agent of the invention. It is also possible first to spray the composition of the invention and then or in the meantime to bring the hairstyle by the aforementioned methods in the form.
  • a second object of the present invention is therefore a method for temporary
  • a cosmetic agent according to the invention in the form of a gel, a pump spray or an aerosol spray,
  • step b) applying, in particular spraying, the cosmetic agent provided in step a) to the keratinic fibers,
  • step b) distributing the applied in step b) cosmetic agent on the keratinic fibers and deformation of the keratinic fibers in the desired shape.
  • Angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them are human hairs.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • a third aspect of the present invention is a process for the temporary coloring of the skin, the process comprising the following process steps:
  • a cosmetic agent according to the invention in the form of a gel, a pump spray or an aerosol spray,
  • step b) applying, in particular spraying, the cosmetic agent provided in step a) to the skin,
  • step b) cosmetic agent distributing the applied in step b) cosmetic agent on the skin.
  • At least one anionic polymer A comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III)
  • R 1, R 3 and R 5 in each case independently of one another, are hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 2 is a branched saturated C 6 -C 12 -alkyl group
  • R4 represents a branched saturated C 2 -C 8 -alkyl group
  • R 6 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, and A is oxygen, sulfur or NH,
  • At least one amphoteric polymer B comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (IV and at least one structural unit of the formula (V)
  • R7 and R9 are hydrogen or a Ci-C4-alkyl group
  • Rs is a linear saturated Ci-C3o-alkyl group
  • R10 and R11 each independently, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • At least one anionic polymer A comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one
  • R5 and R6, each independently of one another, are hydrogen
  • R5 'and R5 " each independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R 2 is a * -C (CH 3 ) 2-CH 2 -C (CH 2) 3 group
  • R4 is a * -C (CH3) 3 group
  • A is an NH group
  • R6 ' represents a methyl group
  • R6 "represents a 2-hydroxypropyl group
  • At least one amphoteric polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (IV), at least one structural unit of the formula (IVa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V)
  • R7, R7 'and Rs each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • Rs' represents a linear saturated cis-alkyl group and Rio and R11, each independently, represent a methyl group.
  • the cosmetic was obtained by mixing the above ingredients and applied to a strand of hair (Kerling 6-0, light brown). After drying, a uniform dark purple color with metallic luster was obtained. Then the tress was washed with water. Here, no influence on the coloration was found. However, the dyeing could be removed without residue with a surfactant cleaning composition (shampoo).
  • a surfactant cleaning composition shampoo

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des produits cosmétiques pour la modification temporaire de la couleur de surfaces kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux humains et de la peau humaine, qui contiennent une combinaison d'un polymère anionique A et d'un polymère amphotère B ainsi qu'au moins un pigment. Ces produits cosmétiques présentent une très bonne résistance à l'eau, mais peuvent être éliminés sans laisser de résidus lors de l'utilisation unique de produits nettoyants contenant des tensioactifs. La présente invention concerne en outre des procédés de coloration temporaire de fibres kératiniques et de la peau à l'aide de ces produits. Enfin, la présente invention concerne l'utilisation d'une combinaison d'un polymère anionique A et d'un polymère amphotère B dans des produits cosmétiques contenant des pigments pour améliorer la résistance à l'eau de ces produits.
EP18742418.9A 2017-07-11 2018-07-02 Produits cosmétiques résistant à l'eau pour la modification temporaire de la couleur de matières kératiniques Withdrawn EP3651856A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102017211852.0A DE102017211852A1 (de) 2017-07-11 2017-07-11 Wasserbeständige kosmetische Mittel zur temporären Farbveränderung von keratinhaltigen Materialien II
PCT/EP2018/067834 WO2019011701A1 (fr) 2017-07-11 2018-07-02 Produits cosmétiques résistant à l'eau pour la modification temporaire de la couleur de matières kératiniques

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3651856A1 true EP3651856A1 (fr) 2020-05-20

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EP18742418.9A Withdrawn EP3651856A1 (fr) 2017-07-11 2018-07-02 Produits cosmétiques résistant à l'eau pour la modification temporaire de la couleur de matières kératiniques

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US20200163863A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3651856A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2020526548A (fr)
CN (1) CN111050852A (fr)
DE (1) DE102017211852A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2019011701A1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5747017A (en) * 1995-05-15 1998-05-05 Lip-Ink International Lip cosmetic
JP2005075737A (ja) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-24 Mitsubishi Chemicals Corp 毛髪用一時着色料組成物
ES2330644T3 (es) * 2003-12-09 2009-12-14 Basf Se Copolimeros anionicos anfoliticos.
JP2005239626A (ja) * 2004-02-26 2005-09-08 Kanebo Cosmetics Inc ジェル状一時染毛料組成物
DE102006051729A1 (de) * 2006-10-30 2008-05-08 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetisches Mittel
DE102009028054A1 (de) * 2009-07-28 2011-02-10 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetisches Mittel
DE102009051171A1 (de) 2009-10-29 2011-05-05 Merck Patent Gmbh Pigmente

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DE102017211852A1 (de) 2019-01-17
WO2019011701A1 (fr) 2019-01-17
CN111050852A (zh) 2020-04-21
US20200163863A1 (en) 2020-05-28
JP2020526548A (ja) 2020-08-31

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