Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
  • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
  • D06M10/02—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements ultrasonic or sonic; Corona discharge
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
  • D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
  • D06M10/08—Organic compounds
  • D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
  • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
  • D06M2200/45—Shrinking resistance, anti-felting properties

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn or fabric, preferably a thin yarn or fabric made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, used at pure state or blended together
• weaving shall be intended to cover both warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving.
• Thin yarns of the above mentioned type are known to be difficult to weave together, due to their thinness which makes them prone to breaking during weaving.
• a weaving technique is known in the art, e.g. from WO 2013/057723 , which includes the steps of applying a reinforcement solution comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of the yarn, crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, e.g. by exposure to UV radiation and a desizing step, for removing the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, as well as a partial and calibrated desizing step for removal of both the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof after crosslinking.
• chitosan and/or its derivatives are easily removed because chitosan and/or its derivatives are soluble under appropriate conditions, such removal being simply obtained by submitting the yarn or fabric to a washing step or one of the usual finishing steps, e.g. a dyeing step obtained by immersing the fibers in a suitable dyeing solution at temperatures above 60°C.
• crosslinked chitosan and/or crosslinked chitosan derivatives generate a water-insoluble crosslinked polymer which remains permanently anchored to the fibers even after a number of successive washing steps with hot and/or soapy water or after a hot-dyeing step.
• crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof can increase cohesion thereof to the fibers of the yarns.
• the crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is applied to the treated fibers in substantially undissolvable and durable fashion.
• the presence of this crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof can:
• the amount of such crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof on the fibers shall not exceed the amount that is strictly sufficient to obtain the required benefits.
• any excess of such crosslinked polymer on the fibers will cause the drawback that the yarns and fabrics will exhibit a high resistance but also excessive rigidity.
• Such desizing step may be:
• the invention also relates to the use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as defined in claim 15.
• the yarn which is preferably a fine yarn, comprises natural animal fibers and/or vegetable fibers, and/or man-made natural polymer fibers and/or man-made natural crosslinked polymer fibers, used at pure state or blended together.
• a process of the invention for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together comprises the steps of:
• the above mentioned desizing step e), for partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is carried out by mechanical means.
• the yarn obtained by the above described process steps b), c), d) and e) is a yarn having improved mechanical strength, remarkable sanitizing, antibacterial and antifelting properties and an excellent finish affinity (e.g. dye and print affinity), partial and calibrated desizing for removal of the crosslinked polymer being advantageously obtained simply and quickly by mechanical means.
• a process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a fabric or knit comprising yarns made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together, comprising a step of warp-and-weft weaving of said yarns or a step of knitting of said yarns, wherein at least one or both of the warp and weft yarns, preferably the warp yarn only, used in this weaving step or a yarn used in said knitting step, is a yarn that undergoes the following process steps:
• the yarn undergoes a step f) of warp-and-weft weaving of said yarns or a step of knitting of said yarns, wherein one or both of the warp and weft yarns, preferably the warp yarn only, used in this weaving step or in said knitting step, is a yarn that undergoes said process steps b), c) and d).
• the fabric or knit so obtained undergo a desizing step g) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, from the fibers of the fabric or knit.
• the above mentioned desizing step g) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is at least partially carried out by acting upon said fibers by mechanical means.
• a process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a fabric, knit or garment comprising at least one yarnmade from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together. This process comprises the steps of:
• the above mentioned desizing step m) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment is at least partially carried out by acting upon said fibers by mechanical means.
• the partial and calibrated desizing step i.e. a sizing step that does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers
• the partial and calibrated desizing step is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
• said mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces.
• These rigid surfaces may consist of the dent and slaying surfaces of a reed, eye holes, namely healds or Jacquard heddles, through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during weaving, bristles of a brush, and others.
• These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
• the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers of the yarn or fabric or knit may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers of the yarn, fabric or knit immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
• the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a step of washing the fibers or knit or during a dyeing step.
• the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step may be carried out in addition to a chemical or an enzymatic desizing step.
• the partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a partial and calibrated chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
• the step of crosslinking the chitosan and/or its derivatives is preceded by a a step of drying the fibers of the yarn, fabric or knit and the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer applied to the fibers of the yarn, fabric or knit, to thereby facilitate the later chitosan crosslinking step.
• the chitosan crosslinking step is carried out by a step of UV exposure of the fibers of the yarn, fabric, knit or garment, chemical crosslinking being also possibly provided.
• the step of sizing said finished fabric, knit or garment is carried out by foularding and/or impregnation of the finished fabric, knit or garment in the sizing solution.
• the chitosan in use has a low molecular weight, e.g. of the order of 150,000 Da.
• it is a chitosan with 75 ⁇ 85% degree of deacetylation; 20 ⁇ 200 cps viscosity at a concentration range of 0.5 ⁇ 10% w/v, preferably 0.8 ⁇ 3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
• said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5 ⁇ 3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8 ⁇ 2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
• said step of sizing the fibers of the yarn, fabric, knit or garment with said sizing solution is carried out with a bath ratio ranging from 1 ⁇ 7 to 1 ⁇ 35, preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1 ⁇ 10 to 1 ⁇ 30, more preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1 ⁇ 16 to 1 ⁇ 24.
• said step of sizing said finished fabric, knit or garment with said sizing solution is carried out with a bath ratio ranging from 1 ⁇ 7 to 1 ⁇ 35, preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1 ⁇ 10 to 1 ⁇ 30, more preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1 ⁇ 16 to 1 ⁇ 24.
• this desizing step with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforced polymer from the fibers of said yarn, leaves said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on the fibers of said yarn subjected to said sizing step, in an amount of 0.3 ⁇ 9 % w/w based on the dry weight of the yarn after said sizing step.
• the yarn which is preferably a thin yarn, may also comprise a doubled yarn with a monofilament or multifilament yarn containing chitosan or be doubled with a yarn made of discontinuous fibers, containing chitosan.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
• Plasma & Fusion (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (2)

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Family Applications (1)

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• 2015
  • 2015-04-17 KR KR1020167030453A patent/KR20160145053A/ko unknown
  • 2015-04-17 JP JP2016562207A patent/JP6667451B2/ja active Active
  • 2015-04-17 US US15/304,329 patent/US20170044711A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2015-04-17 WO PCT/IB2015/052809 patent/WO2015159262A1/en active Application Filing
  • 2015-04-17 DK DK15726697.4T patent/DK3132086T3/en active
  • 2015-04-17 CN CN201580022866.5A patent/CN106460307B/zh active Active
  • 2015-04-17 EP EP15726697.4A patent/EP3132086B1/en active Active

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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