EP2802940A1

EP2802940A1 - Winding mass

Info

Publication number: EP2802940A1
Application number: EP13700115.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Mathieu Jamin; Vincent Lepoultier; Etienne Lebreton
Original assignee: Christian Dior Couture SA
Current assignee: Christian Dior Couture SA
Priority date: 2012-01-13
Filing date: 2013-01-10
Publication date: 2014-11-19
Anticipated expiration: 2033-01-10
Also published as: JP6162720B2; JP2015504165A; EP2802940B1; CH706000B1; CN104487904A; CN104487904B; US20150003216A1; US9104179B2; CH706000A1; WO2013104732A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a winding mass (10) for a watch movement, comprising a geometric rotation axis (100), a peripheral portion (10) and a connecting portion (13) between the peripheral portion (10) and the rotation axis (100), the density and the mass of the peripheral portion being greater than those of the connecting portion. The connecting portion (13) is moved by means of bird feather-like portions (20).

Description

Winding mass

Technical area

The present invention relates to winding masses for automatic watches.

State of the art

[0001] Beautiful mechanical watches exert a fascination

especially due to the observation of the movement of tiny mechanical parts. The observation of the displacement of mechanical parts is however only possible in the case of skeleton watches

devoid of a dial, or at least watches with openings through the dial or the bottom. Moreover, most mechanical parts are animated by a very slow movement, almost invisible, and only the oscillating mass, the seconds hand and the regulating organ are generally animated with a movement fast enough to be perceptible.

In order to animate the dial of watches that do not show the movement, so we know watches with animations above the dial, that is to say moving mechanical parts above the dial. dial. These animations can also be used as additional animations with watches that allow to see the movement.

[0003] There are known, for example, in the state of the art, watches comprising diamonds or other objects that move freely above the dial under the effect of gravity and accelerations.

Also known are watches in which the oscillating mass is placed in front of the dial to make it more visible and create an animation while moving, while reloading the

automatic movement. An example is described in WO2009 / 056498.

An oscillating mass, however, occupies a large portion of the dial which can make it monotonous. CH695394 describes a watch with an oscillating weight whose appeal is increased by a decorative element visible on the surface of the mass, for example a diamond or a stone that reflects light. A diamond, although it allows to attract the eye, remains nevertheless motionless compared to the mass.

To further animate the watch, it is also known to equip the oscillating mass of elements or moving objects relative to this mass. For example, WO2010 / 081500 discloses a watch in which part of the movement mechanism is mounted on a visible oscillating weight on the front face.

[0007] CH993971 describes a clock face whose bottom is constituted by bird feather barbs. This document also describes the method of manufacturing this dial, which comprises the following steps: fixing a bird's feather on the dial plate, the pen having dimensions greater than that of the dial, deposit on the pen of a transparent varnish, to hold together the beards and finally cut the part of the feather overflowing the dial plate. The final shape of the pen is linked to that of the dial plate.

[0008] DE19924775 describes another method of manufacturing a dial comprising bird feather barbs, in particular of a falque, in which the feather parts that protrude from the dial are cut with a scalpel or heating wire.

In these last two documents (CH993971 and DE19924775) the feathers are glued on the entire surface used and cut. They are therefore used as covering surfaces. In addition, they remain motionless relative to the watch. The mechanism necessary to drive moving elements on an oscillating mass in front of the dial is however complex and delicate. Moreover, even if the oscillating weight constitutes an unbalance in order to oscillate under the effect of gravitation, it is preferable to distribute its mass homogeneously at the periphery, in order to avoid unbalancing it and creating a significant effort. on the central axis of rotation of the oscillating mass. In other words, the movable elements that equip the oscillating mass must be light, and if possible evenly distributed over different angular sectors constituting the oscillating mass. It is also desirable to provide the oscillating mass of animated elements by taking a minimum of energy from the movement of the watch, so as not to reduce the power reserve.

It is also desirable to achieve a winding mass with a moment of inertia as important as possible, but without making it too heavy so as not to burden the watch more than necessary. For this purpose, it is desirable to have a large mass near the periphery, to increase the moment of inertia, and as light as possible between this periphery and the center, to lighten the watch.

EP2230570 relates to a timepiece, for example an oscillating mass which is lightened by means of triangular recesses. The center of gravity of the oscillating mass thus obtained is displaced towards the periphery while keeping the rigidity of the part.

A winding mass generally comprises a solid circular ring-shaped peripheral ring and connecting elements, for example arms or spokes, connecting the peripheral ring to the pivot center of the mass. These arms define openings allowing to see at least partially the elements behind and / or in front of the oscillating weight, while lightening its mass. These connecting elements are often made of the same metal as the peripheral ring made of heavy metal, and must be

sufficiently massive and rigid to transmit large torques without deforming. They are therefore often considered unsightly, especially in the case of luxury watches.

In order to overcome these disadvantages, there are in the state of the art various means that can hide or dress these arms so as to improve their aesthetic appearance. There is therefore a need for solutions to hide these arms, without weighing them down. In addition, it is desirable to dress or cover these arms without concealing the dial or hands, or other elements of the movement behind the oscillating mass.

A solution to this problem, which has been proposed by the

Applicant, provides an oscillating mass in which the connecting element is set with a plurality of stones, including diamonds.

Stones, including precious stones, have been used for a long time in luxury watchmaking, and their use is legitimate on an oscillating weight. However, the mass of stones is no

negligible, which affects the quality of the watch. In addition, the thickness of the stones is added to that of the mass, so that this solution is not suitable for ultra-thin watches.

There is therefore a need for a solution that allows to hide the arms of an oscillating weight or other elements of the watch, without unduly heaving the mass or the decorated piece. In particular, there is a need for a solution for hiding or wrapping the arms of an oscillating mass using materials compatible with positioning in the world of luxury and that may surprise

the user. The oscillating mass must be able to move with a minimum of resistance to rotation. Even if the oscillating mass moves

slowly, some of the resistance is nevertheless due to the friction of the air. Therefore, in order to increase the power reserve, it is also desirable to maintain a sufficiently aerodynamic surface of the oscillating mass and to avoid animations on the oscillating mass which slow down the penetration into the air of the oscillating mass. Moreover, in order to make the watch immediately identifiable and unique, it is also desirable to use noble and unexpected materials to meet these different objectives.

An object of the present invention is therefore to provide an oscillating weight that combines these different objectives, while providing a

new and unexpected aesthetics.

According to the invention, these objects are achieved in particular by means of an oscillating mass which has the features of claim 1 and by means of a method for manufacturing winding mass according to claim 12. [0020] The use of bird feather portions as part of the linkage element between the axis and the periphery of the mass enables the oscillating mass to be animated by the feather portions that move perceptibly as the mass moves. The mass of feather portions is very small, so that they do not unbalance the oscillating weight even if they are irregularly distributed, and they do not weigh down the watch. On the other hand, their aerodynamics are optimal.

Advantageously each feather portion is obtained by stamping a bird's feather and comprises a portion of the spine of the bird's feather. In this context the word "rachis" (or solid stem) refers to the central axis of the feathers of the birds, which bears the beards. The lower part of the spine and not made up of dead cells is the calamus (or hollow stem). The spine consists essentially of keratin, which has a high elasticity to folding and is very resistant. In a feather in general the diameter of the rachis is gradually being refined from the base of the feather to the end. On the other hand, the angle between the beards and the spine also becomes smaller and smaller.

In a preferred embodiment, the feather portion is in the form of a full feather. The feathers are mounted on the winding mass which is a movable element relative to the dial and / or the watch case. In another variant these feathers are mounted on any type of element of a watch that is movable relative to the dial and / or the watch case, for example and without limitation a needle, a roller, a rotor, a meter, a wheel, etc.

In a preferred variant, the feather portions are oriented in a plane normal to the axis of rotation of the movable member, thus making it possible to avoid hindering the movement of the movable member by friction of the air. Advantageously and surprisingly feather portions can move on a plane parallel to the dial of the watch, and therefore in a direction perpendicular to that of their movement in kind, which is generally perpendicular to the dial of the watch.

Advantageously the feather portion used is obtained by stamping a natural bird's feather, which may or may not be artificially colored. In a variant the feather portion may coincide with the entire pen used.

The composition of natural feathers b-keratin provides imputrescibilité under conditions of low humidity of the dressing of a waterproof watch and the flexibility necessary for handling during the phases of work and gluing.

The feathers used are preferably rémiges, or portions of rémige stamped in the blade around the spine. They can comprise a rod oriented radially between said axis of rotation and the periphery, and barbs.

Various tests and tests were made by the plaintiff to select pens adapted to be stamped for use in a watch, including a luxury watch. Indeed only some feathers are suitable for this use. First, the diameter of the spine at the upper end of the pen must be sufficiently thin to allow the dial, hands, oscillating mass and feathers to be stacked without interfering with the operation of the watch. For example, the diameter of the spine should be less than 0.5 mm.

Secondly, the angular aperture between the spine and the barbs must be sufficient for the oscillating mass to be sufficiently covered.

The winding mass may comprise two levels of superimposed feathers to sufficiently hide the dial behind the feathers and the rigid connecting elements. The feathers can be semi-transparent, so that the level of the back feather can be observed in transparency.

The winding mass may comprise one or more rigid radii between the axis of rotation and the periphery, the spokes being at least partially covered by said feathers. These rays make it possible to transmit the forces and displacements between the weighted periphery of the winding mass and the central axis. The use of spokes between the center and the periphery makes it possible to lighten the oscillating weight. The use of a continuous peripheral portion with a density higher than that of the connecting portion increases the moment of inertia of the winding mass.

The spokes constituting the connecting portion between the center and the periphery may be radial. They can be non-radial, for example in the form of a grid. The periphery can be linked to the central axis by a single radius, for example an annular segment plate covered by the feathers. The rays can be metallic. They can be transparent, for example in sapphire. The rays can all be covered by the feathers. Some rays can be covered by feathers. Some rays may be visible. The mass may comprise different rays of different shape, color, materials or orientation.

The rays may have a different color of the color of the feathers. The rays may have the same color as the dial behind the rays. The feathers are mounted on a perforated element to enhance the transparency of the pen relative to the elements behind the oscillating mass, or on the dial. In fact, the network formed by the barbules and the barbs of a feather is not totally covering: a feather therefore always retains a certain transparency. For example, the end of the feathers can partially hide stones, for example diamonds, located in the outer periphery of the oscillating mass, thus offering a brightness and iridescent effects unpublished.

The feathers can be glued to the winding mass by the end of their rod only. The blade may be free, so as to allow the barbs or the end of at least some barbs to float and move when the winding mass moves.

The end of the shaft of each feather can be glued to a ring near the axis of rotation of the winding mass.

In a preferred embodiment each feather portion is bonded only to both ends of the spine, leaving the barbs and barbules free and allows them to move in a limited manner, for example when the oscillating mass moves. The feather print is therefore more realistic than when the pen is fully glued to a blanket. This collage, made for example with an invisible glue, also allows to fix the pen on its most wettable elements (calamus and rachis) and not on the barbs and barbules.

The feathers can be whole feathers. As discussed, preferably, the feathers are feather-shaped portions stamped in whole feathers, for example in feathers, to give them all the shape and size desired. They can be die-cut with precise geometrical control of their geometric shape. The feathers can have all the same shape and size. Feathers can be obtained by stamping a small, feather-shaped portion into the blade of a much larger selected feather. Each stamped portion may include a portion of the spine of the original feather. The stamped portion may be stamped near the end of the original feather. Different feathers can be stamped voluntarily at different distances from different feathers, in order to obtain feathers with more or less large and more or less free and soft beards.

During the cutting process, it is possible either to leave intact the ends of the barbs at the end of the pen, or to equalize the limit thereof in the desired form. It is also possible to accurately determine the length of the pen.

The slight unevenness of the feather is controlled by gluing the two ends of the feathers. Finally, the slight curvature of the barbs is also taken into account in the proximity of the pen to the needles. Feathers can be chemically treated to keep them. Feathers can be treated with preservatives, pesticides, agents to prevent discoloration. They can be tinted. They can be covered with a varnish to hold the beards and protect them. They can be treated with ozone. They can be treated with ultraviolet light. They can be treated to protect them from ultraviolet light.

The use in the state of the art of feathers in

the clockwork was until now reduced to the decorative aspect covering, plan and immobile in the dressing. The present invention exploits for the first time and in an unexpected way the partial transparency of the feathers, their freedom of movement, their natural geometry, the functions of hooking between barbules and natural cutting and the different levels of wettability of the feathers following its subparts (calamus, rachis, beard, barbules).

In addition, their arrangement on a mobile element such as an oscillating weight has no negative functional impact on the watch because of their orientation. Advantageously, the different levels of wettability of the parts of a feather with the glues have been taken into account to maximize the reliability of the oscillating mass. Finally, the method of cutting the feather portions makes it possible to use natural ends of the feathers while maintaining the geometric control of their shape.

Brief description of the figures

Examples of implementation of the invention are indicated in the description illustrated by the accompanying figures in which: [0047] Figure 1 illustrates a top view of the oscillating weight before mounting the feathers.

[0048] Figure 2 illustrates a top view of the winding mass after mounting feathers.

Figure 3 schematically illustrates an example of the feather stamping process. [0050] Figure 4 schematically illustrates another example of the feather stamping process.

Figure 5 illustrates a sectional diagram of a feather portion according to the invention. Figures 6A and 6B illustrate two examples of feather portion according to the invention.

Example (s) of embodiment of the invention

[0053] Figure 1 illustrates a front view of a winding mass 1 for equipping a mechanical watch to raise the barrel and / or animate the front face. In this application, we call "winding mass" any oscillating mass under the effect of gravity, even if this mass is decorative and does not necessarily act on the reassembly of the movement.

The winding mass 1 is advantageously arranged for mounting on the front of the watch, for example above the dial. However, it is also possible to use an oscillating mass according to the invention to equip the rear of the movement.

The oscillating mass 1 comprises in this example a peripheral portion 10 annular segment, for example a segment covering an angle between 120 and 180 °, preferably approximately 180 °. The peripheral portion 10 is advantageously made of high density material, for example in a precious metal such as gold or platinum, or steel. A large part of the mass of the assembly 1 is concentrated at the level of the peripheral ring 10, so that the center of gravity of the oscillating mass is as far as possible from the geometric axis of rotation 100. A connecting portion 13 with spokes 130 connects this peripheral portion 10 to an inner annular portion 1 1, 12 having a ring 1 1 forming the means of the mass, and a decorative portion 12. The connecting portion may be made of the same material as the peripheral portion, for example of precious metal or steel, or in a different material. Each spoke 130 connects a point of the inner annular portion 12 to a point of the peripheral ring 10. The kinetic energy caused by the oscillations of the peripheral portion 10 is transmitted to the inner bearing 1 1 through this connecting portion 13 which must be rigid enough, but light enough not to weigh down the watch and to save the amount of metal. The space between the spokes 130 is sufficient to see the dial or the movement behind the winding mass, at least when this mass is not equipped with feathers. In a preferred embodiment, the connecting portion 13 has the same color as the dial of the watch (not shown) behind the oscillating mass, so as to be as little visible as possible. Other elements may be implemented to connect the peripheral portion 10 to the inner annular portion 11, 12; for example, non-radial arms may be employed, arms intersecting, a grid, concentric arms, a plate with or without openings, etc. The symmetrical arrangement around a vertical axis of symmetry in the figure provides a good balance of the mass. The connecting portion 13 may be made of metal, for example stainless steel or precious metal. The connecting portion 13 may also be transparent, for example sapphire. The inner annular portion 1 1, 12 comprises cornices 14, 1 5 which extend radially opposite each spoke 130. In this example, the winding mass 1 comprises an alternation of large cornices 14 and small cornices 1 5. Stones, for example diamonds, can equip at least some of these cornices 14, 1 5. The cornices make it possible to better conceal the end of the feathers that would not be covered by the feathers 20, and to fix the stem 200 of the feathers 20. In one embodiment, a first level of feathers is fixed by gluing the end 202 of the shaft 200 of each feather 20 of this first level to a cornice 14, 15, and a second level of feathers. 20 is fixed by sticking the end 202 of the stem 200 of each feather of this second level in a gap 16 between a large cornice 14 and a small cornice 1 5. In this way, the feathers of the second level are placed alternately between the feathers of a first level, with a partial recovery.

The peripheral portion 10 also includes a plurality of stones 19 crimped, thus contributing to enhance its appearance.

The annular portion 1 1, 12 comprises a bearing 1 1 which allows to pivotally connect the winding mass 1 to a movement of an automatic watch. In a variant, the winding mass 1 is connected to the movement by the periphery, for example through a rack.

The spokes 130 of the connecting portion 13 have a non-optimal aerodynamic coefficient. Moreover, even if this winding mass moves on the front of the watch, the animation is limited. Therefore, in order to further animate this mass of

winding while improving its aerodynamics, the front of the connecting portion is covered with feathers fixed so as to move slightly with the oscillations of the mass. The weight of the feathers being extremely limited, it is possible to arrange them in a slightly asymmetrical manner, or to use feathers of variable size and weight, without unbalancing the winding mass 1.

Figure 2 illustrates the winding mass of the invention on which a level of feathers 20 is glued. In this example, the first level of feathers 20 comprises feathers arranged radially, a feather being placed on each spoke 130 so as to cover it totally or almost completely. The lower end 202 of the rod 200 of each pen 20 is disposed on the inner annular portion 1 1, 12, for example on each cornice 14, 1 5. This end can be glued by means of an invisible glue, and / or fixed by means mechanical. A second level of feathers (not shown) may be glued over this first level, for example with feathers alternating with those of the first level, for example by gluing and / or mechanically fixing the lower end of each feather in a interstice 16 between two cornices 14.1 5. The width of the feathers of the second level is preferably sufficiently limited to allow at least a portion of the feathers to be seen on a first level; moreover, the feathers of the second level are preferably sufficiently transparent to distinguish the feathers of the first level. The feathers used are preferably rooster feathers carefully selected for their color and condition. Since it is difficult to obtain a large number of feathers with the desired size and shape, and edges in good condition, the feathers used are preferably obtained by stamping a feather-shaped portion from the blade. a feather 20 'selected much larger. The stamped shape comprises a portion 200 of the spine of the base feather, that is to say a portion of the solid rod, as well as shortened barbs 201. Some feathers may be stamped near the upper end of the base feather, in order to have thinner beards 201, less hooked to each other. Other feathers, for example those used for the lower level, can be stamped closer to the lower end of the stem (calamus), in order to have the barbs 201 steeper, better hooked, more perpendicular to the stem.

The feathers 20 are preferably glued or fixed by the end 202 of the rod only. In a variant, at least some feathers are glued at different points of their rods on the corresponding radius. In a preferred embodiment the feather portions 20 are glued to the spokes 130 by their upper end 204 and by their lower end 202. In both cases, the barbs are free to move when the winding mass moves. [0064] Figure 4 schematically illustrates another example of the feather stamping process. In this case the feather portion 20 is stamped near the upper end of the base pen 20 ', in order to have barbs 201 thinner, less hooked to each other. In correspondence of the upper end of the base pen 20 'the spine 200' of the base pen 20 'is finer, which allows a thickness of the pen portion 20 which is better adapted to the constraints of the pen. the thickness of a watch.

In addition, the angle α between the spine 200 and the barbs must be sufficient to provide the feather portion 20 with sufficient coverage of the oscillating weight 10. Feather portions 20 stamped in the central portion of the feather base 20 'have a thicker spine but an angle β between the spine 200 and the barbs larger than a.

Figure 5 illustrates a sectional diagram of a feather portion according to the invention. In general a natural feather is not flat because it forms an angle of non-flatness Θ, visible in Figure 5, relative to a horizontal line. This angle Θ has a small value, preferably less than 10 °, for example 5 °. This slight non-flatness of the pen is controlled by gluing the two ends 202, 204 of the feather portion 20. Finally the slight curvature of the barbs is also taken into account when positioning the feather portion in the watch.

Figures 6A and 6B illustrate two examples of feather portion 20 according to the invention. The feathers are die-cut with precise geometric control. During the cutting process, it is possible either to leave intact the ends of the barbs at the ends 202, 204 of the feather portion 20, or to equalize the limit thereof in the desired shape, as shown in FIG. 6B. For example it is possible to cut the lower end 202 of the feather portion 20 in the shape of an arc 300, as shown in Figure 6A. Such feather portions 20 may advantageously be glued on an oscillating mass as for example illustrated in FIG. 2, giving the impression that there are feathers emerging from the center 100 of mass 10.

In this case, the feather portion can be glued on the spokes 130 of the oscillating mass 10 in correspondence of its end.

upper 204 and also in correspondence of points P1 and P2 near its lower end 202.

It is also possible to cut the upper end 204 of the pen portion 20 in the form of a circular arc 400, as shown in Figure 6B, to give a more regular shape and accurate beards. The feathers can be chemically treated to keep them longer. They can be treated with pesticides, for example fungicides, herbicides, parasiticides or other phytosanitary products. They can be treated with preservatives. They can be treated with ozone and / or ultraviolet. They can also be treated against discoloration and ultraviolet attacks. It is also possible to tint them, and / or to cover them with a varnish to hold the beards.

The oscillating mass according to the invention is provided for integration into an automatic watch to ensure the reassembly of the movement. Such a watch conventionally comprises an energy accumulator, often a barrel, designed to cooperate with the oscillating mass, to perform this function. Thus, the oscillating mass provides energy to the battery, arming the spring of the latter. The energy accumulator serves to supply a time base of the movement, which itself drives the gear train.

In an advantageous variant, the oscillating weight 10 is integrated with an existing watch movement. To do this, an adapter plate is arranged on the basic mechanical movement of the shows. This plate is used to accommodate gearing adapted to ensure the connection between the oscillating mass and the barrel.

The invention also relates, independently, other watch components provided with bird feathers fixed in a semi-free manner, that is to say by allowing the barbs to move. Such feathers fixed or glued only by the rod or the end of the rod may for example be provided on the dial, hands, or other preferably animated and visible elements of the watch.

Claims

claims

1. Winding mass (10) for watch movement, comprising a geometrical axis of rotation (100) a peripheral portion (10) and a connecting portion (13) between the peripheral portion (10) and the axis of rotation (100) ,

characterized in that the connecting portion (13) is provided with portions (20) of bird feathers, each feather portion (20) being obtained by stamping a bird's feather, each portion having a portion of the spine (200) of said bird feather, as well as barbs (201).

2. The winding mass according to claim 1, said portion of the spine (200) is oriented radially between said axis of geometric rotation (100) and said peripheral portion (10).

3. Winding weight according to one of claims 1 or 2, said feather portion (20) being in the form of a feather.

4. Winding weight according to one of claims 1 to 3, comprising two levels of feathers (20) superimposed.

5. The winding mass according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising radii (130) rigid between said axis of rotation (100) and said peripheral portion (10), said radii (130) being at least partially covered by said portions of feathers (20).

6. Winding weight according to claim 5, said spokes (130) being metallic.

7. Winding mass according to claim 5, said spokes (130) being sapphire.

8. Winding weight according to one of claims 5 to 7, said spokes (130) being radial.

9. Winding mass according to one of claims 5 to 8, said spokes (130) having a different color from that of said feather portions (20).

10. Winding mass according to one of claims 5 to 9, said feather portions (20) being adhered to said spokes (130) by the lower end (202) of their spine (200) only.

1 1. Winding mass according to one of claims 5 to 9, said feather portions (20) being adhered to said spokes (130) by the lower end (202) of their spine (200) and the upper end (204). ) of their spine (200).

12. Method of manufacturing winding mass according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps:

feather selection (20 ');

stamping a portion (20) of feather-shaped feather in the blade of each selected feather (20 '), each stamped portion having a portion of the spine (200);

splicing of the spine (200) feather portions (20) stamped on a winding mass (1), oriented radially with the spine near the axis of geometric rotation.

The method of claim 12, including a step of chemically treating said feather portions (20).

14. The method of one of claims 12 to 13, said feathers being glued by their spine (200) only.