EP2728065A9 - Process for dyeing ramie sliver and method for preparing yarn - Google Patents

Process for dyeing ramie sliver and method for preparing yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2728065A9
EP2728065A9 EP11868514.8A EP11868514A EP2728065A9 EP 2728065 A9 EP2728065 A9 EP 2728065A9 EP 11868514 A EP11868514 A EP 11868514A EP 2728065 A9 EP2728065 A9 EP 2728065A9
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
ramie
slivers
dyeing
sliver
preparing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP11868514.8A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2728065A4 (en
EP2728065A1 (en
Inventor
Liming Liu
Zhi Ma
Yang WENG
Ying KUANG
Deming Chen
Ruizhi ZOU
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Hunan Huasheng Zhuzhou Cedar Co Ltd
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Hunan Huasheng Zhuzhou Cedar Co Ltd
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Publication of EP2728065A1 publication Critical patent/EP2728065A1/en
Publication of EP2728065A9 publication Critical patent/EP2728065A9/en
Publication of EP2728065A4 publication Critical patent/EP2728065A4/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06P7/005Dyeing combined with texturising or drawing treatments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cloth dyeing technical field, in particular, a process for dyeing ramie slivers.
  • Ramie is a fiber crop having good quality, high yield and characteristic of China, and the gross output of ramie in China occupies 90% of that of the world.
  • Ramie fiber has the advantageous features of strong hydroscopicity, fast heat dissipation, corrosion resistance and bacterial inhibition, soft luster, recyclability, environmental friendliness and the like, as well as excellent wearability.
  • ramie is used more and more, mainly for manufacturing ramie cloth, such as Chinese linen.
  • dyeing of ramie mainly lies in ramie yarn dyeing and stock (refined dry flax) dyeing, both of which have succeeded.
  • the style of the colored fabric weaved with the dyed ramie yarns is relatively fixed, and dyeing of refined dry flax has a low yield, resulting in severe waste.
  • the existing ramie sliver dyeing technology generally uses the top dyeing technique conventional in wool or cotton spinning industry; moreover, the dyed fiber slivers are likely to break in coalescing and drawing, and the fibers are likely to harden due to no curling and poor cohesion of ramie fibers, readily leading to poor drawing, needle breakage and missing stitches during carding and coalescing in post-procedures, thus it is difficult to spin smoothly.
  • the present invention provides a process for dyeing ramie slivers, by which the ramie slivers dyed is not liable to break and harden and enables smooth yarn spinning.
  • the invention provides the following technical solution: a process for dyeing ramie slivers, comprising
  • the dyeing in step 2) comprises the following process: adding ramie slivers to a dissolved active dye at atmospheric temperature, stirring for 5-10min; adding a salt solution, increasing temperature to 60°C-70°C, running for 5-8min, adding sodium carbonate solution, and running for 40-60min while holding the temperature; taking the ramie slivers out, and sequentially performing washing with clear water, neutralizing with diluted acid, soaping, and washing with cold water.
  • the dyeing process further comprises 3) post-treatment: subjecting the dyed ramie slivers to color fixing and oiling.
  • Said color fixing is carried out by immersing ramie slivers in an aqueous solution containing 2-4% (o.w.f) of a color fixing agent and 2-5% (o.w.f) of a softener at 35°C-50°C for 10-20min;
  • Said oiling is carried out by immersing the color-fixed ramie slivers in an aqueous solution containing 2-3g/L of an oil agent at 60°C-70°C for 20-30min.
  • said soaping is carried out by washing the ramie slivers in a solution of 1-2g/L of detergent at 90°C-100°C for 10-15min.
  • the ramie slivers in step 1) are set to have a coiler shape.
  • the present invention further provides a preparation method of ramie spun yarn, and the technical solution thereof is as follows: a method for preparing ramie colored-spun yarn, comprising the following steps:
  • drying in step (5) is required to achieve a moisture regain of 7-10% and an oil content of 0.5-1.5%.
  • the ramie sliver used for spinning yarn in step (7) has at least one color.
  • ramie fibers are firstly made into ramie balls having a coiler shape and certain weight, subsequently bagged, caged and hoisted to a yarn dyeing machine for dyeing.
  • the dyeing process involves steaming ramie balls with a steaming liquor containing a penetrant and then dyeing.
  • it is further needed to perform oiling treatment for improving spinnability to the dyed ramie fibers, followed by dewatering and drying, thereby preparing colored ramie fiber slivers meeting the requirements of spinning process.
  • the colored ramie fiber slivers are then subjected to fiber loosening, coalescing and drawing, and spun after combing.
  • the colored ramie fiber slivers can be spun solely or blend-spun with other weaving fibers to obtain ramie or its blend yarns having different characteristics and different colors.
  • the dyed ramie slivers in the present invention improves the properties of ramie fibers, such that the ramie fibers are not liable to break in coalescing and drawing; and the ramie fibers are not liable to harden, avoiding poor drawing, needle breakage and missing stitches during carding and coalescing in post-procedures, thus achieving the purpose of smooth yarn spinning.
  • the preparation method of ramie spun yarn according to the present invention effectively solves the technical problem in production of ramie sliver colored-spun yarn, and facilitates diversity of product and increase of added value of ramie product to thereby obtain higher economic benefit.
  • Colorful ramie products having different elements can be prepared by the preparation process and method according to the present invention.
  • a preparation method of ramie spun yarn comprising the following steps:
  • a suspended cage capable of holding ramie balls is designed taking the advantages of AUwin series dyeing vessels produced by Fong's National Engineering Co., Ltd., and placed into the dyeing vessel for dyeing.
  • the AUwin series dyeing vessels produced by Fong's National Engineering Co., Ltd. have the advantages of energy saving, high efficiency, ability of pressure dewatering, and possession of AIR advanced intelligent washing system.
  • the ramie sliver dyeing process comprises the following process flow: pretreatment->dyeing->post-treatment;
  • the pretreatment is for the purpose of removing the small quantity of oil and other aids attached on the ramie slivers, which is beneficial to fiber coloring and capable of guaranteeing the dyeing performance of the fibers.
  • Dissolved dye is added at atmospheric temperature, followed by running for 5min; dissolved salt is added and then temperature is increased to 60°C, followed by running for 5 min; dissolved sodium carbonate is added, followed by running for 40-60min while holding the temperature at 60°C, and then a sample is taken. The color is checked. If the color is correct, water is discharged, and washing with clear water is conducted once for 5min; subsequently, glacial acetic acid is added for neutralization (HAC 2-4g/l), and water is discharged after running at atmospheric temperature for 5 min.
  • Soaping is performed once (detergent 1-2g/l, temperature 90-100°C, time 10min), then water washing and overflow water washing are carried out sequentially, followed by washing with 80°C water once for 5min (washing with hot water is performed again if the color is very deep) and washing with cold water for 1-2 times each for 5min.
  • Lubrication treatment is carried out (color fixing agent is added if the color is deep) at 40°C for 10min, and then water is discharged out of the cage.
  • the rates of temperature increase and decrease are set to be the fastest, expect for that the rate of temperature increase in dyeing is controlled at 2°C/min, so that the retention time of the ramie balls in the dyeing vessels is shortened as much as possible, and the impact of liquid flow on the ramie balls is reduced, thereby avoiding tangle.
  • the dyes having low substantivity and better migrating property should be used.
  • the dyes and aids should be substantially dissolved before addition. Feed speed should be controlled severely, and dye is fed at a speed of 50% for 10min; and the aids are fed at a speed of 70% for 5min. Dyeing is performed for 40-60min with rate of temperature increase controlled at 2°C/min. Bidirectional circulation is adopted in dyeing, comprising external flow at a pump speed of 60% for 2min and internal flow at a pump speed of 90% for 4min, and internal-flow starting is adopted.
  • post-treatment is to fix color for improving color fastness of dyeing and to oil for enabling smooth carding.
  • Post-treatment is performed under the environment bidirectional flow comprising internal flow at a pump speed of 80% for 4min and external flow at a pump speed of 40% for 1min.
  • Example 1 production of 24Nm coffee-colored ramie knitting yarn
  • Dissolved dye was added at atmospheric temperature, followed by running for 5min; dissolved salt was added and then temperature was increased to 60°C, followed by running for 5 min; dissolved sodium carbonate was added, followed by running for 40-60min while holding the temperature at 60°C. The color is checked, if the color was correct, water was discharged, and washing with clear water was conducted once for 5min; subsequently, glacial acetic acid was added for neutralization (HAC 2-4g/l), and water was discharged after running at atmospheric temperature for 5min.
  • Soaping was performed once (detergent 1-2g/l, temperature 90-100°C, time 10min), then water washing and overflow water washing were carried out sequentially, followed by washing with 80°C water once for 5min (washing with hot water was performed again if the color was very deep) and washing with cold water for 1-2 times each for 5min.
  • Lubrication treatment was carried out (color fixing agent was added if the color was deep) at 40°C for 10min, and then water was discharged out of the cage.
  • the finally produced ramie yarns were detected.
  • the yarns have the features of soft luster, cleanness, less hairiness, etc., and are suitable for use in woven or knitted ramie products.
  • Example 2 production of 60Nm ramie-viscose gray spun yarn (30% ramie/70% viscose)
  • ramie fiber slivers were dyed, and then prepared into blend colored-spun yarns having unique style by using a ramie spinning apparatus.
  • the obtained yarns have unique style and good luster, and can lead the fashion trend of ramie textiles; meanwhile, they enable enrichment of ramie textile products and added value increase of the products.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

A process for dyeing ramie sliver, comprising: 1.) pretreatment: cooking the ramie sliver for 8-12 minutes in a cooking reagent in a bath ratio of 1:4-10, the cooking reagent is a 1-3 g/L aqueous solution of a penetrating agent; and 2.) dyeing: dyeing the cooked ramie sliver in an active dye in a bath ratio of 1:4-10. Also disclosed is a method for preparing ramie yarn. The ramie sliver dyed according to the present invention improves the properties of ramie fibers, such that the ramie fibers are less likely to break; and the ramie fibers are less likely to harden, avoiding poor drawing, needle breakage and missing stitches during carding and coalescing in post-procedures, thus achieving the purpose of smooth yarn spinning. Also disclosed is a method for preparing ramie colored-spun yarn.

Description

  • The present application claimed priority based on the patent application entitled by "Process for dyeing ramie sliver and method for preparing yarn" filed with the Chinese Patent Office (No. 201110179694.6) on June 29, 2011 , all contents of which are combined in the present application by reference.
  • FIELD OF INVENTION
  • The present invention relates to cloth dyeing technical field, in particular, a process for dyeing ramie slivers.
  • BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
  • Ramie is a fiber crop having good quality, high yield and characteristic of China, and the gross output of ramie in China occupies 90% of that of the world. Ramie fiber has the advantageous features of strong hydroscopicity, fast heat dissipation, corrosion resistance and bacterial inhibition, soft luster, recyclability, environmental friendliness and the like, as well as excellent wearability.
  • As production technology develops and people's living standard raises, ramie is used more and more, mainly for manufacturing ramie cloth, such as Chinese linen. Now, dyeing of ramie mainly lies in ramie yarn dyeing and stock (refined dry flax) dyeing, both of which have succeeded. However, the style of the colored fabric weaved with the dyed ramie yarns is relatively fixed, and dyeing of refined dry flax has a low yield, resulting in severe waste. Although dyeing of ramie slivers exists currently, and it greatly increase yield and achieve a varying colorful effect, which is difficult to be achieved by yarn dyeing, by coalescing ramie slivers having different colors and blend spinning into yarns, the existing ramie sliver dyeing technology generally uses the top dyeing technique conventional in wool or cotton spinning industry; moreover, the dyed fiber slivers are likely to break in coalescing and drawing, and the fibers are likely to harden due to no curling and poor cohesion of ramie fibers, readily leading to poor drawing, needle breakage and missing stitches during carding and coalescing in post-procedures, thus it is difficult to spin smoothly.
  • SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
  • Directing to these disadvantages, the present invention provides a process for dyeing ramie slivers, by which the ramie slivers dyed is not liable to break and harden and enables smooth yarn spinning.
  • In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides the following technical solution: a process for dyeing ramie slivers, comprising
    1. 1) pretreatment: steaming ramie slivers for 8-12min at a bath ratio of 1:4-10 with a 1-3g/L aqueous solution of a penetrant as a steaming agent;
    2. 2) dyeing: dyeing the steamed ramie slivers in an active dye at a bath ratio of 1:4-10.
  • Preferably, the dyeing in step 2) comprises the following process: adding ramie slivers to a dissolved active dye at atmospheric temperature, stirring for 5-10min; adding a salt solution, increasing temperature to 60°C-70°C, running for 5-8min, adding sodium carbonate solution, and running for 40-60min while holding the temperature; taking the ramie slivers out, and sequentially performing washing with clear water, neutralizing with diluted acid, soaping, and washing with cold water.
  • Preferably, the dyeing process further comprises 3) post-treatment: subjecting the dyed ramie slivers to color fixing and oiling.
  • Said color fixing is carried out by immersing ramie slivers in an aqueous solution containing 2-4% (o.w.f) of a color fixing agent and 2-5% (o.w.f) of a softener at 35°C-50°C for 10-20min;
  • Said oiling is carried out by immersing the color-fixed ramie slivers in an aqueous solution containing 2-3g/L of an oil agent at 60°C-70°C for 20-30min.
  • Preferably, said soaping is carried out by washing the ramie slivers in a solution of 1-2g/L of detergent at 90°C-100°C for 10-15min.
  • Preferably, the ramie slivers in step 1) are set to have a coiler shape.
  • The present invention further provides a preparation method of ramie spun yarn, and the technical solution thereof is as follows: a method for preparing ramie colored-spun yarn, comprising the following steps:
    1. (1) preparing ramie fibers into ramie balls having a coiler shape;
    2. (2) steaming ramie balls for 8-12min at a bath ratio of 1:4-10 with a 1-3g/L aqueous solution of a penetrant as a steaming agent;
    3. (3) dyeing the ramie balls steamed in step (2) in an active dye at a bath ratio of 1:4-10;
    4. (4) subjecting the ramie slivers dyed in step (3) to color fixing and oiling;
    5. (5) dewatering and drying the ramie slivers from step (4); standing for more than 24 h;
    6. (6) coalescing, drawing and combing the ramie slivers after standing in step (5); coalescing and drawing the combed ramie slivers; and
    7. (7) spinning the ramie slivers from step (6) into yarns at 20-30°C and relative humidity of 70-90%.
  • 20-30°C and relative humidity of 70-90%.
  • Preferably, drying in step (5) is required to achieve a moisture regain of 7-10% and an oil content of 0.5-1.5%.
  • Preferably, the ramie sliver used for spinning yarn in step (7) has at least one color.
  • In the present invention, ramie fibers are firstly made into ramie balls having a coiler shape and certain weight, subsequently bagged, caged and hoisted to a yarn dyeing machine for dyeing. The dyeing process involves steaming ramie balls with a steaming liquor containing a penetrant and then dyeing. In order to guarantee the subsequent spinnability of the ramie fibers, it is further needed to perform oiling treatment for improving spinnability to the dyed ramie fibers, followed by dewatering and drying, thereby preparing colored ramie fiber slivers meeting the requirements of spinning process. The colored ramie fiber slivers are then subjected to fiber loosening, coalescing and drawing, and spun after combing. The colored ramie fiber slivers can be spun solely or blend-spun with other weaving fibers to obtain ramie or its blend yarns having different characteristics and different colors.
  • The dyed ramie slivers in the present invention improves the properties of ramie fibers, such that the ramie fibers are not liable to break in coalescing and drawing; and the ramie fibers are not liable to harden, avoiding poor drawing, needle breakage and missing stitches during carding and coalescing in post-procedures, thus achieving the purpose of smooth yarn spinning.
  • The preparation method of ramie spun yarn according to the present invention effectively solves the technical problem in production of ramie sliver colored-spun yarn, and facilitates diversity of product and increase of added value of ramie product to thereby obtain higher economic benefit. Colorful ramie products having different elements can be prepared by the preparation process and method according to the present invention.
  • DETAILED EMBODIMENTS
  • A preparation method of ramie spun yarn, comprising the following steps:
    1. 1. preparing ramie fibers into ramie balls having a coiler shape and a weight of 4-5kg/ball
      main process parameters
      sliver weight 10-20g/m
      thickness of the shaped ramie balls
      200-250mm
      central hole of the shaped ramie balls
      Φ80-90mm
    2. 2. loading the ramie balls into a nylon net bag, relatively fixing the ramie fiber slivers along axial direction with a proper tightness to prevent tangle thereof;
    3. 3. loading the ramie balls fixed as required to a suspended cage;
    4. 4. placing the suspended cage containing the ramie fiber slivers into a yarn dyeing pot;
    5. 5. dyeing the ramie fiber slivers in a yarn dyeing pot (model A11WIN-55, produced by Fong's National Engineering Co., Ltd, Hong Kong).
  • A suspended cage capable of holding ramie balls is designed taking the advantages of AUwin series dyeing vessels produced by Fong's National Engineering Co., Ltd., and placed into the dyeing vessel for dyeing. The AUwin series dyeing vessels produced by Fong's National Engineering Co., Ltd. have the advantages of energy saving, high efficiency, ability of pressure dewatering, and possession of AIR advanced intelligent washing system.
  • The ramie sliver dyeing process comprises the following process flow: pretreatment->dyeing->post-treatment;
    • Dyeing aid:
    • Penetrant JFC produced by Hubei Jianli Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.
    • Detergent 805 produced by Hubei Jianli Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.
    • Color fixing agent produced by Shenyang Chemical industry Co., Ltd.
    • Dye produced by Yorkshire Chemicals Holdings Ltd., active dye
    • Salt sodium chloride produced by Hunan salt industry Co., LTD.
    • Alkali sodium carbonate produced by Zhuzhou Zhicheng Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.
    • Softener produced by Clariant Chemicals Ltd.
    • Ramie oiling agent FD-ZY06A, FD-ZY06B produced by Beijing CTA-Tex Chemicals Co., Ltd
    1) Pretreatment
  • The pretreatment is for the purpose of removing the small quantity of oil and other aids attached on the ramie slivers, which is beneficial to fiber coloring and capable of guaranteeing the dyeing performance of the fibers.
  • Main process parameters:
    • Penetrant JFC 1g/L
    • Bath ratio 1:4-10
    • Temperature 100°C
    • Time 10 min
    • Circulation completely internal flow
    • Key points: completely-internal-flow is adopted in the circulation for temperature increase, where the rate of temperature increase is set to be the fastest, and the pump speed is 90%. After pretreatment is finished, washing with cold water is conducted once for 5 min, and the tank is opened for checking.
    2) Dyeing
    • Dye: active dye, the amount thereof varies according to colors
    • Bath ratio: 1:4-10
  • Dissolved dye is added at atmospheric temperature, followed by running for 5min; dissolved salt is added and then temperature is increased to 60°C, followed by running for 5 min; dissolved sodium carbonate is added, followed by running for 40-60min while holding the temperature at 60°C, and then a sample is taken. The color is checked. If the color is correct, water is discharged, and washing with clear water is conducted once for 5min; subsequently, glacial acetic acid is added for neutralization (HAC 2-4g/l), and water is discharged after running at atmospheric temperature for 5 min. Soaping is performed once (detergent 1-2g/l, temperature 90-100°C, time 10min), then water washing and overflow water washing are carried out sequentially, followed by washing with 80°C water once for 5min (washing with hot water is performed again if the color is very deep) and washing with cold water for 1-2 times each for 5min. Lubrication treatment is carried out (color fixing agent is added if the color is deep) at 40°C for 10min, and then water is discharged out of the cage.
  • In the steps in which the ramie balls are disposed in the dyeing vessel, the rates of temperature increase and decrease are set to be the fastest, expect for that the rate of temperature increase in dyeing is controlled at 2°C/min, so that the retention time of the ramie balls in the dyeing vessels is shortened as much as possible, and the impact of liquid flow on the ramie balls is reduced, thereby avoiding tangle.
  • Key points of dyeing: the dyes having low substantivity and better migrating property (especially dyes of medium and light color) should be used. The dyes and aids should be substantially dissolved before addition. Feed speed should be controlled severely, and dye is fed at a speed of 50% for 10min; and the aids are fed at a speed of 70% for 5min. Dyeing is performed for 40-60min with rate of temperature increase controlled at 2°C/min. Bidirectional circulation is adopted in dyeing, comprising external flow at a pump speed of 60% for 2min and internal flow at a pump speed of 90% for 4min, and internal-flow starting is adopted.
  • 3) Post-treatment
  • The purpose of post-treatment is to fix color for improving color fastness of dyeing and to oil for enabling smooth carding. Post-treatment is performed under the environment bidirectional flow comprising internal flow at a pump speed of 80% for 4min and external flow at a pump speed of 40% for 1min.
  • Main process parameters for color fixing:
    • Temperature 40°C
    • Time 10min
    • Color fixing agent 2-4%
    • Softener 2-5%
  • Main process parameters for oiling:
    • Temperature 60°C
    • Time 20min
    • Oiling concentration 2-3g/l
    • 6. Dewatering the dyed ramie fiber slivers which have been subjected to color fixation and oiling.
    • 7. Dying the dyed and dewatered ramie fiber slivers (radiofrequency dryer)
  • A moisture regain of 7-10% is required after drying;
  • An oil content of 0.5-1.5% is required after drying.
    • 8. Standing and incubating the treated ramie fiber slivers for more than 24h to eliminate partial internal stress of fibers and keep internal-external equilibrium of the regain.
    • 9. Coalescing and drawing the dyed ramie fiber slivers subjected to standing and incubating on a double-apron drawing frame by using a low-speed, light-weight and small draft process, to achieve the purpose of reducing fiber hardening and loosening the fibers, so as to benefit the yarn spinning process.
    • 10. Coalescing and drawing the dyed ramie fiber slivers treated with the double-apron drawing frame again on a needle-plate drawing frame to improve the evenness of the ramie slivers.
    • 11. Removing part of flaws and short fibers from the coalesced dyed ramie fiber slivers on a ramie comber by using a process of "low speed, fine combing and light weight", so as to satisfy the requirement of high-quality yarn. A smooth roll is used instead of a grooved roll at the sliver outlet to improve cohesion of fibers and thereby facilitate the subsequent production. Different process schemes may be made based on different raw materials, for example, this procedure may be canceled to meet any requirements for the style and the like of product.
    • 12. Coalescing and drawing the combed dyed ramie fiber slivers on a drawing frame for 3-5 times. The coalescing process is performed at a low speed and a light weight by using a trumpet with a perfect pressurizing automatic stopper, smooth passage and small diameter, to improve the evenness and smoothness of the fiber slivers, to ensure uniform mixing and to enable the slivers to shape well.
    • 13. Treating roving according to a process principle of low speed, light weight and appropriate twist factor.
    • 14. Treating spun yarn at a low speed and an appropriate pressure with a small draft and appropriate setting and tension, to reduce hairiness and broken ends and improve evenness of the slivers.
    • 15. Keeping a relatively high environment temperature and humidity during the yarn spinning process.
    • Temperature 20-30°C
    • Relative humidity 70-90%
    • 16. carrying out color mixing of dyed ramie fiber slivers by means of sliver mixing as well as other means.
  • The invention is described in detail in combination with the following examples, and such description is merely for demonstration and explanation, without any intention of limitation to the protection scope of the invention.
  • Example 1: production of 24Nm coffee-colored ramie knitting yarn
    1. 1. Ramie fiber slivers were made into ramie balls having a coiler shape
      • Weight of ramie fiber slivers: 10±1g/m
      • Shaping height of the ramie balls: 200-250mm
      • Shaping weight of the ramie balls: 4500-5000g/ball
      • The central hole diameter of the shaped ramie balls: Φ80-90mm
    2. 2. The ramie balls were loaded into a nylon net bag, the ramie fiber slivers were fixed along the axial central hole from the external with a proper tightness to prevent tangle thereof.
    3. 3. The fixed ramie balls were loaded to a suspended cage;
    4. 4. The suspended cage containing the ramie fiber balls were placed into a yarn dyeing machine;
    5. 5. The ramie fiber slivers were dyed.
      • Dyeing process flow: pretreatment->dyeing->post-treatment
    (1) pretreatment pretreatment aids:
    • penetrant JFC: 1g/L
    • bath ratio: 1:4
    • temperature: 100°C
    • time: 10min
    • circulation: entire internal and external flow pretreatment pump power: 90% for internal flow, 40% for external flow
    • time: 5min for internal flow, 3min for external flow Circulation was carried out in such manner that even dyeing is ensured and tangle of fiber slivers is prevented.
    (2) dyeing
    • dye: active dye (coffee-colored) 3BE-N 0.63%, 3BF-N 0.51%, B:
    • 23%.
    • Bath ratio: 1:4
  • Dissolved dye was added at atmospheric temperature, followed by running for 5min; dissolved salt was added and then temperature was increased to 60°C, followed by running for 5 min; dissolved sodium carbonate was added, followed by running for 40-60min while holding the temperature at 60°C. The color is checked, if the color was correct, water was discharged, and washing with clear water was conducted once for 5min; subsequently, glacial acetic acid was added for neutralization (HAC 2-4g/l), and water was discharged after running at atmospheric temperature for 5min. Soaping was performed once (detergent 1-2g/l, temperature 90-100°C, time 10min), then water washing and overflow water washing were carried out sequentially, followed by washing with 80°C water once for 5min (washing with hot water was performed again if the color was very deep) and washing with cold water for 1-2 times each for 5min. Lubrication treatment was carried out (color fixing agent was added if the color was deep) at 40°C for 10min, and then water was discharged out of the cage.
    • Dyeing pump power: internal 90%, external 80%
    • Circulation time: internal 4min, external 2min
    (3) post-treatment
    • acid washing: HAC 2-4 g/L 10min
    • color fixing: 10°C 10min
    • color fixing agent: 2%
    • softener: 5%
    • 6. The dyed ramie fiber slivers subjected to color fixing and washing was immersed in oil to ensure the spinnability of the fibers.
      • Main process parameters for oiling
      • Ramie oiling agent: FD-ZY06A, FD-ZY06B 2.5g/L
      • Bath ratio: 1:7
      • Time: 6 h
      • Temperature: 55°C
      • pH value: 8.5
    • 7. The oiled dyed ramie fiber slivers was dewatered with a centrifugal dewatering machine, and the dyed ramie fiber balls were parallely placed into a dewatering machine one by one for dewatering.
      Required moisture content after dewatering: 45-55%
    • 8. drying
      • Using a radiofrequency dryer: model FTDW85, produced by Fong's National Engineering Co., Ltd.
      • Time 5m/h
      • Regain after drying: 7-10%
      • Oil content: 0.5-1.0%
    • 9. operation essentials
      • (1) Ramie slivers should be placed in parallel in the production process and should not be disordered.
      • (2) After pretreatment was finished, the vessel should be opened, and the fastening screws should be readjusted.
      • (3) Internal and external circulation time and pressure of the circulation pump should be adjusted well in the dyeing process to decrease hairiness as mush as possible.
    • 10. The dyed ramie fiber slivers were allowed to stand and be incubated for more than 24 h under natural conditions.
    • 11. The dyed ramie fiber slivers were coalesced and drawn to reduce hardening of fiber and loose the fiber.
      • Machine model: BR221 apron drafting machine
      • Coalescing number: 6-8
      • Draft: 6-9
      • Feed weight: 10-15g/m
      • Front roller speed: 50-120m/min
      • Setting for drawing: front roller-middle roller 170mm middle roller-rear roller 240mm
    • 12. The dyed ramie fiber slivers treated with a double-apron drawing frame were coalesced and drawn again to improve evenness of the ramie slivers.
      • Model CZ304A gill faller
      • Coalescing number: 6-8
      • Draft: 6-9
      • Feed weight: 10-15g/m
      • Sliver discharge weight: 10-12g/m
      • Front roller speed: 35/55m/min
      • Needle plate beats: 800-1000/min
      • Needle plate density: 7-10 needles/inch
      • Setting in drawing: 45-55mm
    • 13. The coalesced dyed ramie fiber slivers were combed to remove part of short fibers and impurities and improve quality of the fiber.
      • Machine model: B311 comber
      • Pulling setting: 30-45mm
      • Combing setting: 1mm
      • Feeding: 15-19T
      • Cylinder: 90-100/min
      • Sliver discharge weight: 45-55g/5m
    • 14. The combed dyed ramie fiber slivers were subjected to coalescing and drawing for 3-4 times to obtain even final coalesced slivers meeting the requirements of spinning process.
      • Machine model: gill faller
      • Main process parameters:
      • Setting in drawing: 40-55mm
      • Needle plate density: 10-18 needles/inch
      • Needle plate beats: 390-800/min
      • Draft: 6-9
      • Coalescing number: 6-10
      • Sliver discharge weight: 8-15g/m
    • 15. The dyed ramie fiber slivers were spun into slubbing
      • Main process parameter
      • Front roller speed: 100-200r/min
      • Spindle speed: 200-350r/min
      • Draft: 5-10
      • Twist factor: 18-22
      • Count of delivery: 1-2Nm
    • 16. The slubbing was spun into roving
      • Main process parameters
      • Front roller speed: 55-90r/min
      • Spindle speed: 200-450r/min
      • Draft: 5-10
      • Twist factor: 18-22
      • Count of delivery: 2-4.5Nm
    • 17. Yarns were spun
      • Main process parameters
      • Front roller speed: 80-110r/min
      • Spindle speed: 500-7000r/min
      • Draft: 10-20
      • Twist factor: 90
      • Count of delivery: 24Nm
    • 18. drum (equipped with an electronic yarn clearer)
      • Drum speed: 300-400m/min
      • Main parameters of the electronic yarn clearer
      • D: 2.0
      • DL: 2.5cm
  • The finally produced ramie yarns were detected. The yarns have the features of soft luster, cleanness, less hairiness, etc., and are suitable for use in woven or knitted ramie products.
  • Example 2: production of 60Nm ramie-viscose gray spun yarn (30% ramie/70% viscose)
    1. 1. Ramie fiber slivers were dyed into black according to steps 1-10 of Example 1.
    2. 2. Combed black ramie fiber slivers were produced according to steps 11-13 of Example 1.
    3. 3. The Combed black ramie fiber slivers were coalesced and drawn to form even semi-finished product satisfying process requirements.
      Main process conditions:
      • Needle plate beats: 600-800/min
      • Needle plate specification: 10-14 needles/inch Draft: 5-9
      • Sliver discharge weight: 9-10g/m (dry weight)
    4. 4. Inherently white ramie fiber slivers were pre-coalesced and drawn to form even semi-finished product satisfying process requirements, in which the main process conditions were identical with those provided in step 3.
    5. 5. Inherently white viscose fiber slivers were pre-coalesced, coalesced, and drawn to form even semi-finished product satisfying process requirements, in which the main process conditions were identical with those provided in step 3.
    6. 6. Process flow for production of colorful fiber slivers:
      Figure imgb0001
      -> primary coalescing-> secondary coalescing-> and coalescing for the third time-> final coalescing-> slubbing-> roving-> yarn-> drum
    7. 7. Colorful fiber slivers satisfying process requirements were produced according to step 14 as sated in example 1.
    8. 8. Slubbing is spun according to step 15 as stated in example 1.
    9. 9. Roving is spun according to step 16 as stated in example 1.
    10. 10. Yarns were spun according to step 17 as stated in example 1.
    11. 11. Cheeses were produced according to step 18 as sated in example 1.
  • In the production method described above, ramie fiber slivers were dyed, and then prepared into blend colored-spun yarns having unique style by using a ramie spinning apparatus. The obtained yarns have unique style and good luster, and can lead the fashion trend of ramie textiles; meanwhile, they enable enrichment of ramie textile products and added value increase of the products.
  • The above is merely preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be indicated that, those skilled in the art may make some improvement and retouch on the premise of not deviating from the principle of the present invention, and such improvement and retouch should be considered within the protection scope covered by the invention.

Claims (8)

  1. A ramie sliver dyeing process, comprising
    (1) pretreatment: steaming ramie slivers for 8-12min at a bath ratio of 1:4-10 with a 1-3g/L aqueous solution of a penetrant as a steaming agent;
    (2) dyeing: dyeing the steamed ramie slivers in an active dye at a bath ratio of 1:4-10.
  2. The ramie sliver dyeing process according to claim 1, characterized in step (2) dyeing comprising the following procedures: adding ramie slivers to a dissolved active dye at atmospheric temperature, stirring for 5-10min; adding a salt solution, increasing temperature to 60°C-70°C, running for 5-8min, adding sodium carbonate solution, and running for 40-60min while holding the temperature; taking the ramie slivers out, and sequentially performing washing with clear water, neutralizing with diluted acid, soaping, and washing with cold water.
  3. The ramie sliver dyeing process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in further comprising (3) post-treatment: subjecting the dyed ramie slivers to color fixing and oiling,
    said color fixing is carried out by immersing ramie slivers in an aqueous solution containing 2-4% (o.w.f) of a color fixing agent and 2-5% (o.w.f) of a softener at 35°C-50°C for 10-20min,
    said oiling is carried out by immersing the color-fixed ramie slivers in an aqueous solution containing 2-3g/L of an oil agent at 60°C-70°C for 20-30min.
  4. The ramie sliver dyeing process according to claim 2, characterized in that said soaping is carried out by washing the ramie slivers in a 1-2g/L of detergent at 90°C-100°C for 10-15min.
  5. The dyeing process according to claim 1, characterized in that the ramie slivers in step (1) are set to have a coiler shape.
  6. A method for preparing ramie colored-spun yarn, comprising the following steps:
    (1) preparing ramie fibers into ramie balls having a coiler shape;
    (2) steaming ramie balls for 8-12min at a bath ratio of 1:4-10 with a 1-3g/L aqueous solution of a penetrant as a steaming agent;
    (3) dyeing the ramie balls steamed in step (2) in an active dye at a bath ratio of 1:4-10;
    (4) subjecting the ramie slivers dyed in step (3) to color fixing and oiling;
    (5) dewatering and drying the ramie slivers from step (4); standing for more than 24 h;
    (6) coalescing, drawing and combing the ramie slivers after standing in step (5); coalescing and drawing the combed ramie slivers; and
    (7) spinning the ramie slivers from step (6) into yarns at 20-30°C and relative humidity of 70-90%.
  7. A method for preparing ramie colored-spun yarn according to claim 6, characterized in that the drying in step (5) is required to achieve a moisture regain of 7-10% and an oil content of 0.5-1.5%.
  8. A method for preparing ramie colored-spun yarn according to claim 6, characterized in that the ramie sliver used for spinning yarn in step (7) has at least one color.
EP11868514.8A 2011-06-29 2011-11-15 Process for dyeing ramie sliver and method for preparing yarn Withdrawn EP2728065A4 (en)

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