CN111394864A - Cotton satin type pure cotton fabric and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Cotton satin type pure cotton fabric and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111394864A CN111394864A CN201910003938.1A CN201910003938A CN111394864A CN 111394864 A CN111394864 A CN 111394864A CN 201910003938 A CN201910003938 A CN 201910003938A CN 111394864 A CN111394864 A CN 111394864A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title description 5
- 238000005517 mercerization Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 241000219146 Gossypium Species 0.000 claims description 43
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 22
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 claims description 20
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims description 16
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 108010059892 Cellulase Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 240000000047 Gossypium barbadense Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000009429 Gossypium barbadense Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CC([O-])=O VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940106157 cellulase Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001632 sodium acetate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000017281 sodium acetate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 8
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 7
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000013527 degreasing agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005237 degreasing agent Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 241000478345 Afer Species 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003889 chemical engineering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005238 degreasing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007598 dipping method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002255 enzymatic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012847 fine chemical Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004661 hydrophilic softener Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012466 permeate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000036632 reaction speed Effects 0.000 description 1
- 102220014330 rs147406419 Human genes 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B7/00—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
- D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
- D06M11/60—Ammonia as a gas or in solution
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a sateen-type pure cotton fabric and a preparation method and application thereof. The preparation method comprises the steps of carrying out alkali mercerization, liquid ammonia mercerization, washing water treatment and shaping treatment on the fabric; wherein the fabric has a weft knitting weave single-side jacquard structure; the yarn adopted by the fabric is 100% long stapled cotton. The sateen-type pure cotton fabric obtained by the preparation method has the advantages of common gloss, softness and pendulous handfeel of silk, and meanwhile, the problem of poor dimensional stability of pure cotton yarn knitted products is solved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a preparation method of a pure cotton fabric, in particular to a preparation method of a pure cotton fabric with the texture of sateen, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics.
Background
The pure cotton knitted fabric is widely used for sports and leisure, underwear and knitted shirts, and has the characteristics of comfortable wearing, air permeability and good elasticity. However, the pure cotton knitted fabric has the problems of poor dimensional stability, large shrinkage, poor fuzz and pilling resistance, poor washing resistance and the like, and the problems directly affect the wearability of the pure cotton knitted product, and are particularly not suitable for knitted shirts.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention aims to provide a pure cotton fabric with better dimensional stability (washing resistance and little shrinkage).
In order to realize the technical purpose, the invention firstly provides a preparation method of a sateen-type pure cotton fabric, which comprises the steps of carrying out alkali mercerization, liquid ammonia mercerization, post-treatment and sizing treatment on the fabric;
wherein the fabric has a weft knitting weave single-side jacquard structure;
the yarn adopted by the fabric is 100% long stapled cotton.
The cotton satin type pure cotton fabric is a fabric with a weft knitting weave structure, and the fabric is washable and wear-resistant through limiting the specifically adopted yarns, weave structures and treatment methods, has high dimensional stability, and solves the problems of poor dimensional stability, pilling resistance, fuzzing resistance and washing resistance of the existing pure cotton knitted products. Meanwhile, the fabric has the general gloss and softness of silk, has a pendulous hand feeling, and has a clean surface.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the method for preparing the sateen-type pure cotton fabric may include a step of pretreating the fabric.
The pre-treatment may include the steps of scouring, dyeing yarn, knitting, cloth inspecting, and scutching.
Specifically, the scouring step comprises:
at the temperature of 90-100 ℃, the fabric is put into 1 g/L-2 g/L of CIarite One bleaching agent, 1 g/L-3 g/L of NaOH aqueous solution with the mass concentration of 50 percent, and H with the concentration of 27.5 percent2O2Treating in water solution for 40-60 min;
enzyme washing in 0.75 g/L-3 g/L Cellusoft combi cellulase (neutral) at 45-60 deg.C for 45-60 min to complete the scouring treatment.
Specifically, dyeing yarn refers to dyeing cotton yarn. Specifically, there is no particular requirement for the dyeing process, and dyeing may be carried out in a manner conventional in the art.
In particular, the dyeing process may include steps of soaping and fixing.
Wherein the soaping can be carried out at 90-100 deg.C in XQW-1 type soaping agent for 10-20 min at bath ratio of 0.5 g/L-1 g/L.
Wherein the color fixing can be carried out in DM2518 type color fixing agent at 40-50 deg.C for 20-30 min, and the bath ratio is 0.5 g/L-2 g/L.
Specifically, knitting refers to weaving dyed cotton yarns to obtain a fabric with a weft knitting structure and a single-side jacquard structure.
Wherein the knitting can be performed on a single knitting machine. Furthermore, the rotating speed of the single-side machine during weaving is 18r/min-24r/min, and the yarn feeding tension is 8cN-10 cN.
The adopted knitting single-side machine has no special requirements, and the conventional knitting single-side machine in the field can be adopted. For example, the model of the knitting single-side machine can be 22G and 24G. In addition, the single-side knitting machine can also be provided with a FEED machine for positive yarn feeding or an automatic intermediate machine for semi-positive yarn feeding.
In one embodiment of the invention, the 100% long staple cotton used comprises ring spun cotton or compact spun cotton having an English count of 50S/2, 60S/2, 70S/2, 80S/2 or 100S/2.
Specifically, when the above-mentioned 100% long staple cotton is used for weaving, the yarn length design can be as shown in tables 1, 2 and 3.
TABLE 1
Yarn count | Coil length (50 coils, unit: mm) |
50S/2 | 125-135 |
60S/2 | 120-128 |
70S/2 | 115-125 |
80S/2 | 100-110 |
100S/2 | 85-95 |
TABLE 2
Yarn count | Coil length (50 wires)Circle, unit: mm) |
50S/2 | 135-143/87-94 |
60S/2 | 125-133/84-90 |
70S/2 | 120-128/80-87 |
80S/2 | 110-118/70-76 |
100S/2 | 100-108/60-66 |
TABLE 3
Yarn count | Coil length (50 coils, unit: mm) |
50S/2 | 87-94 |
60S/2 | 84-90 |
70S/2 | 80-87 |
80S/2 | 70-76 |
100S/2 | 60-66 |
Specifically, the cloth inspection refers to the step-by-step inspection of the appearance quality of the blank fabric according to the national standard or the industry standard of the blank fabric inspection. Selecting the grey cloth with proper parameters according to the conventional mode in the field.
Specifically, the open width means a state in which the tubular fabric is opened to an open width.
In a specific embodiment of the invention, the preparation method of the sateen-type pure cotton fabric comprises the following steps of sequentially carrying out the following steps on the pretreated fabric: alkali mercerization, liquid ammonia mercerization, post-treatment and shaping treatment.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the alkali mercerization refers to dipping the cotton fiber in a high-concentration alkali solution to obtain alkali cellulose, wherein the cross section of the alkali cellulose is round after moistening and expansion, and the fiber shrinks. At this time, the warp direction is strongly stretched (tension cylinder), and the width is fixed (tenter) in the weft direction, thereby preventing shrinkage. After alkali mercerization, the size stability, tensile strength, hygroscopicity, dyeability and gloss of the fabric are enhanced.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the alkali solution used in the alkali mercerization has a concentration of 28 Be.
In one embodiment of the invention, the addition amount of the mercerizing penetrating agent for alkali mercerization is 6 g/L-10 g/L (preferably 8 g/L).
In one embodiment of the invention, the speed of the alkali mercerization process is 20 (+/-3) m/min.
In the preparation method, ammonia gas is used for mercerizing liquid ammonia (NH) which is in a liquid state below 33 ℃ below zero3) The viscosity and the surface tension of the liquid ammonia are lower than those of water, the liquid ammonia can easily and quickly permeate into cotton fibers, so that the cotton fibers are expanded from a core part, the cross section is expanded from flat to round, the cavity diameter is reduced, the surface is smooth,because of the change of the fiber crystal structure, the internal stress is eliminated and the fiber is not twisted any more, thereby improving the tensile strength and the tearing strength and still keeping good hand feeling (softness) even if the fiber is repeatedly washed.
In one embodiment of the invention, the speed of the liquid ammonia mercerization is 25 m/min.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the treatment temperature of the liquid ammonia mercerization is as follows: feeding a blanket: 115 ℃ to 125 ℃ (preferably 120 ℃), upper and lower reaction zones: 85-95 ℃ (preferably 90 ℃), and the cloth-out carpet: 95 ℃ to 1005 ℃ (preferably 100 ℃).
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the treatment tension of the liquid ammonia mercerization is as follows: feeding a blanket: 2KG, upper and lower reaction zones: 5(± 0.5) KG, discharging felt: 5 (. + -. 0.5) KG.
In a further embodiment of the invention, the liquid ammonia mercerization can be carried out on an Italy L AFER liquid ammonia mercerization machine, the fabric is passed through a liquid ammonia treatment box by using a fabric guide, the fabric guide needs to be consistent with the width of a produced fabric, the seam is straight and firm, and the midway non-stop is ensured, otherwise, the color abnormity is caused, and the identification needs to be carried out on the fabric surface if the stop occurs.
The preparation method of the invention exerts the advantages of the liquid ammonia mercerization and the alkali mercerization together through the combined action of the liquid ammonia mercerization and the alkali mercerization, greatly increases the luster, the hand feeling and the dimensional stability of the fabric, has little change after multiple times of washing, and can improve the final wearability of the product.
In one embodiment of the invention, the post-treatment comprises wash water treatment, bio-enzyme treatment and softening treatment (cylinder over-softening).
In a further embodiment of the invention, the wash water treatment comprises the following steps:
placing the cloth in the washing liquid at 45-80 deg.C at a bath ratio of 1:18-40, and treating for 30-60 min.
Wherein the adopted washing water liquid comprises 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of penetrant, 0.8 g/L-3.0 g/L of low-temperature degreasing agent, 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of crease preventing agent and 0.5 g/L-2.0 g/L of alkaline agent, and the solvent is water.
In a further embodiment of the invention, the biological enzyme treatment comprises the following steps:
at 40-60 deg.C, the cloth is treated in enzyme lotion at a bath ratio of 1:18-40 for 40-80 min.
In a further embodiment of the invention, the pH of the enzymatic wash used is from 4.5 to 6.5.
Wherein the adopted enzyme lotion comprises 0.75 g/L-6 g/L (preferably 2 g/L-3 g/L) of biological enzyme, 0.5 g/L-1.0 g/L of sodium acetate and 0.5 g/L-1.0 g/L of acetic acid, and the solvent is water.
Wherein, the adopted biological enzyme is cellulase.
In a further embodiment of the invention, the softening treatment is carried out in a softener STS of 2 g/L-6 g/L, typically after completion of the bio-enzyme treatment, the softener is added to the wash liquor of the dye vat wash for in-vat over-softening.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the setting process comprises the steps of:
treating in the setting finishing liquid at 150-170 deg.c for 3-10 min.
In a further embodiment of the invention, the sizing finishing liquor comprises 30 g/L-60 g/L of resin finishing agent, 3 g/L-8 g/L (5-15 g/L) of catalyst, 1 g/L-2 g/L of penetrating agent, 60 g/L-100 g/L of D6100 type softening agent, and the solvent is water.
In one embodiment of the invention, the speed of the sizing process is 16m/min-22 m/min.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the method for preparing a sateen-type pure cotton fabric further includes a step of performing a preshrinking treatment after the sizing treatment.
Wherein, the pre-shrinking treatment can be carried out in a nylon carpet type pre-shrinking machine. The speed of the pre-shrinking treatment can be 15m/min-25 m/min.
In order to achieve the above technical object, in another embodiment of the present invention, there is also provided a sateen-type pure cotton fabric produced by the above method for producing a sateen-type pure cotton fabric of the present invention.
The invention provides a satin-cotton-type pure cotton surfaceThe gram weight of the material is 130g/m2-230g/m2(ii) a Preferably, the gram weight of the fabric is 160g/m2-220g/m2。
In still another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a knitted shirt prepared using the above-described sateen-type pure cotton fabric of the present invention.
The satin-type pure cotton fabric obtained by the preparation method of the satin-type pure cotton fabric can be extremely little shrunk, and the warp and weft directions are +/-3% and +/-3% (three times of washing water and hanging test) and +/-5% (ten times of washing water and hanging test); the excellent anti-pilling effect can be achieved, and the pilling test can reach 4.0 grade (GB/T4802.1, including no washing and 10 times of washing); meanwhile, a good crease-resistance effect can be achieved, and a crease test can reach 4.0 level.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a first structural diagram of a weaving manner in embodiment 1 of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a structural diagram of a weaving manner in embodiment 1 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below in order to clearly understand the technical features, objects, and advantages of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the practical scope of the present invention.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a preparation method of a sateen-type pure cotton fabric, which is used for weaving cotton yarns tightly spun by 60S/2 long stapled cotton, and the preparation method specifically comprises the following steps.
The cotton yarn of 60S/2 long stapled cotton compact spinning is dyed, and the dyeing process comprises the following steps.
Pretreatment: treating at 90 deg.C in NaOH (50 wt%) solution for 10 min;
dyeing: at 90-100 ℃ in H2O2(27.5 wt%) for 40-60min, and the bath ratio is 1-3 g/L.
And knitting the dyed cotton yarn to obtain the grey cloth. A24G single-face circular knitting machine is adopted, the rotating speed of a machine table is 18r/min, the yarn feeding tension is 8-10cN, and the large circular knitting machine is provided with an FEED machine of an active yarn feeding device. The weave pattern is shown in fig. 1 and 2.
And inspecting and scutching the obtained grey cloth.
Then sequentially carrying out alkali mercerization, liquid ammonia mercerization, post-treatment, shaping treatment and preshrinking treatment.
The specific technological parameters of the alkali mercerization are that the concentration of alkali liquor (NaOH aqueous solution) is 28Be, the mercerization penetrating agent (mercerization penetrating agent F4028, produced by Kokai fine chemical engineering (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.) is 8 g/L, and the vehicle speed is 20 m/min.
The method comprises the following specific steps of liquid ammonia mercerization:
the dyed cloth is guided through a liquid ammonia treatment box by using the guide cloth, the width of the guide cloth is consistent with that of the produced cloth, and the seam is straight and neat. The vehicle speed is 25m/min, and the temperature is as follows: feeding a blanket: 120 ℃, upper and lower reaction zones: and (3) discharging the blanket at 90 ℃: at 100 ℃, the tension is: feeding a blanket: 2 KG; upper and lower reaction zones: 5KG, discharging the blanket: 5KG, can not shut down midway, otherwise can lead to the colour unusual, if shut down appear need carry out the sign clearly at the cloth cover.
Wherein, the post-treatment comprises washing water treatment, biological enzyme treatment and cylinder softening.
The washing water treatment comprises the following steps: placing the cloth in the washing liquid at 45-80 deg.C at a bath ratio of 1:18-40, and treating for 30-60 min.
The adopted washing liquid comprises 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of penetrating agent (FKS, manufactured by Jiahong silicone science and technology Co., Ltd., Dongguan city), 0.8 g/L-3.0 g/L of low-temperature degreasing agent, 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of wrinkle preventing agent and 0.5 g/L-2.0 g/L of alkaline agent, and the solvent is water.
The biological enzyme treatment comprises the following steps:
treating the cloth in enzyme lotion at 55 deg.C at a bath ratio of 1:18-40 for 60 min.
The enzyme lotion comprises 0.75 g/L-6 g/L of biological enzyme (Cellusoft combi enzyme, produced by Novexin Chinese Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g/L-1.0 g/L of sodium acetate and 0.5 g/L-1.0 g/L of acetic acid, and the solvent is water.
The softening treatment in jar is carried out by adding cloth into washing liquid at 45-80 deg.C at bath ratio of 1:18-40 for 30-60 min, and adopting 2 g/L hydrophilic softener U L TRATEX STS-D.
The speed of the sizing treatment is 20m/min, and the specific process comprises the following steps:
treating the fabric in a sizing finishing liquor at 155 deg.C for 3-10min, wherein the sizing finishing liquor comprises 30 g/L resin finishing agent (resin FIXAPRET E-CO, produced by BASF CHINESE CO., LTD.), 12 g/L catalyst (MgCl)2From Fumega trade company, Guangzhou), 60-100 g/L of D6100 softener and 1 g/L of penetrating agent (FKS), the solvent being water.
And (3) performing preshrinking treatment after shaping, wherein the preshrinking treatment can be performed in a preshrinking nylon blanket type preshrinking machine at the speed of 20m/min to obtain the sateen cotton type pure cotton fabric.
The production method of the fabric can be adjusted properly according to different fabric styles and customer requirements, but the mercerization reaction speed can be improved only by boiling or washing water for degreasing before alkali mercerization; the strength, elasticity and size stability of the piece-dyed knitted fabric are improved through the liquid ammonia mercerization, the curling problem and warp shrinkage in the production process of the knitted liquid ammonia can be improved through changing the cloth passing route of the liquid ammonia mercerization, and the method is suitable for processing most knitted varieties. After the liquid ammonia is neutralized and over-softened, the fabric appearance, hand feeling and washing fastness can be improved through the sizing and preshrinking of the resin softener.
The cotton satin (Regal-Silk) type pure cotton fabric of this example was subjected to a conventional physicochemical index test, and the test results are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4
As described above, the fabric of the embodiment has good performance, the anti-pilling number is greater than 4.0, the problem of poor dimensional stability of a pure cotton yarn knitted product is solved, the product can shrink very little, and meanwhile, the fabric has the common luster, softness and draping hand feeling of silk, the surface of the fabric is clean, washable and wear-resistant, and an excellent knitted shirt fabric is provided for the market.
Claims (16)
1. A preparation method of a sateen-type pure cotton fabric is characterized by comprising the steps of carrying out alkali mercerization, liquid ammonia mercerization, post-treatment and sizing treatment on the fabric;
wherein the fabric has a weft knitting weave single-side jacquard structure;
the yarn adopted by the fabric is 100% long stapled cotton.
2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the speed of the mercerization of liquid ammonia is 25 m/min.
3. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment temperature of the mercerization of liquid ammonia is as follows: temperature at the blanket inlet: 115 ℃ to 125 ℃, upper and lower reaction zone temperatures: 85-95 ℃, and the temperature of the blanket at the cloth outlet: 95-105 ℃.
4. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that the processing tension of the liquid ammonia mercerization is as follows: feeding a blanket: 2KG, upper and lower reaction zones: 5(± 0.5) KG, discharging felt: 5 (. + -. 0.5) KG.
5. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that the alkali mercerization alkali liquor concentration is 28 Be;
preferably, the speed of the alkali mercerization is 20 (+ -3) m/min.
6. The preparation method of claim 1, wherein the addition amount of the mercerizing penetrating agent for alkali mercerization is 6 g/L-10 g/L;
preferably, the mercerizing penetrating agent used is a penetrating agent of F4028 type.
7. The method of claim 1, wherein the post-treatment comprises a washing water treatment, a bio-enzyme treatment, and a softening treatment.
8. The method of claim 7, wherein the wash water treatment comprises the steps of:
placing the cloth in a washing liquid at a bath ratio of 1:18-40 at 45-80 deg.C, and treating for 30-60 min;
preferably, the washing water liquid comprises 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of penetrating agent, 0.8 g/L-3.0 g/L of low-temperature oil removing agent, 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of crease preventing agent and 0.5 g/L-2.0 g/L of alkaline agent, and the solvent is water.
9. The method of claim 7, wherein the bio-enzyme treatment comprises the steps of:
treating the cloth in enzyme lotion at 40-60 deg.C at a bath ratio of 1:18-40 for 40-80 min;
preferably, the enzyme lotion comprises 0.75 g/L-6 g/L of biological enzyme, 0.5 g/L-1.0 g/L of sodium acetate and 0.5 g/L-1.0 g/L of acetic acid, and the solvent is water;
more preferably, the biological enzyme is a cellulase.
10. The method of claim 7, wherein the softening treatment is carried out in a softener STS of 2 g/L-6 g/L.
11. The method for preparing according to claim 1, characterized in that said setting treatment comprises the following steps:
treating in the setting finishing liquid at 150-170 deg.c for 3-10 min;
preferably, the sizing finishing liquid comprises 30 g/L-60 g/L of resin finishing agent, 3 g/L-8 g/L of catalyst, 1 g/L-2 g/L of penetrating agent, 60 g/L-100 g/L of D6100 softening agent, and the solvent is water;
preferably, the vehicle speed of the sizing treatment is 16m/min-22 m/min.
12. The method of claim 1, wherein the 100% long staple cotton comprises ring spun cotton yarn or compact spun cotton yarn having an english count of 50S/2, 60S/2, 70S/2, 80S/2, or 100S/2.
13. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric having a weft-knitted single-sided jacquard structure is woven at a rotational speed of 18 to 24r/min and a yarn feeding tension of 8 to 10 cN.
14. The method of claim 1, further comprising a step of pre-treating;
preferably, the pre-treatment comprises the steps of scouring, yarn dyeing, knitting, cloth inspecting and scutching.
15. A sateen-type pure cotton fabric characterized in that it is produced by the method of any one of claims 1 to 14.
16. A knitted shirt characterized in that the fabric adopted by the knitted shirt is the satin-type pure cotton fabric according to claim 15.
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