CN103952848A - Novel piece dyed mercerized knitted fabrics and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Novel piece dyed mercerized knitted fabrics and manufacturing method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103952848A
CN103952848A CN201410189341.8A CN201410189341A CN103952848A CN 103952848 A CN103952848 A CN 103952848A CN 201410189341 A CN201410189341 A CN 201410189341A CN 103952848 A CN103952848 A CN 103952848A
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fabric
mercerising
calendering
mercerized
processing
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何劲松
杨文春
黄伟海
文发科
刘锦聪
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201410189341.8A priority Critical patent/CN103952848A/en
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Abstract

The invention relates to a novel piece dyed mercerized knitted fabric and a manufacturing method thereof. The manufacturing method comprises the following steps: conducting a treatment of scouring and enzyme washing on knitted grey fabric obtained by directly knitting common non-mercerized yarns; conducting treatments of mercerizing, (after dyeing) water washing for softening, calendering, finalizing the design, pre-shrinking and the like; obtaining the novel piece dyeing mercerized knitted fabric. The novel mercerized knitted fabric can achieve the performance of traditional double mercerized fabrics and has the effects of bright and clean cloth surface, soft and smooth hand feeling, stable size, shrink resistance, crease resistance, durability, wash resistance and the like. The invention further solves problems of long production time of traditional double mercerized knitted fabrics, high losses, horizontal crease and the like.

Description

A kind of novel piece dyeing mercerising knit fabric and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of novel piece dyeing mercerising knit fabric and preparation method thereof, specifically the common non-mercerized yarn of a kind of employing is directly weaved cotton cloth, by changing reaction speed, the reaction time of cloth mercerising and coordinating cloth calendering and make soft technique, thereby reach the preparation method of the novel piece dyeing mercerising fabric of the gloss handle effect of traditional double mercerising, and make the mercerising knit fabric obtaining according to the method, belong to knitted dyeing and finishing technical field.
Background technology
After there is mercerising yarn the end of the nineties in last century, the understanding of consumer to all-cotton knitting fabric has been overturned in the appearance of mariages laser accunputure knitted fabric, becomes all-cotton knitting fabric fine work and high-grade symbol.Its main feature and performance comprise: fabric lines is clear, flower type novelty, and cloth cover gloss is gorgeous, bright and clean without filoplume; Soft smooth, dimensionally stable, anti-wrinkle shrink-proof, moisture absorption is ventilative.
But mariages light fabric processing technology comes with some shortcomings or waits improvements at present.First, mariages light fabric manufacturing procedure complexity, time is long, mariages light fabric is taking cotton as raw material, through the spinning high grade yarn of making, again through singing, the manufacturing procedure that mercerising etc. are special, make bright and clean beautiful, soft crease-resistant high-quality mercerized yarn, the knitted fabric made from this raw material is made the fabric of high-quality again through fabric mercerising, production process needs complicated tediously long production process, produce each operation that entity can not have its needs for one, often need the transhipment processing of cross-region, conventionally start than the process time of other common orders at least many one month time to product turnout from receiving order, affect CSAT.Secondly, yarn singeing and mercerising loss are large, reach 8%-10%; Yarn dyeing process at yarn-dyed fabric is owing to inhaling look fast, easily causing ectonexine aberration need to shell cylinder uses, general loss reaches 5%, and at knitting process, due to trickle color and the dry easily knitting band fault of generation of problem of bar, consequent fabric practical efficiency only has 85% left and right; Mariages laser accunputure knitted fabric reaches 30% left and right in whole production process loss.Except above-mentioned, also there is the band problem of cloth cover in mariages light fabric, affects top grade and the fine work image of mariages laser accunputure knitted fabric.The production of above 3 serious restriction mariages laser accunputure knitted fabrics, directly causes the cost of mariages light fabric to rise, and has influence on consumer's general choice.
Summary of the invention
Main purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of novel piece dyeing mercerising knit fabric and preparation method thereof, to solve the technical problems such as long, high loss of the production time that existing cotton mariages light fabric exists in producing and band.
This case inventor finds by the research of the performance evaluation to mariages light fabric, mercerization and the dyeing and finishing technology test of series, use common cotton yarn directly to weave cotton cloth without yarn mercerising, through a series of dyeing and finishing process, after mercerising, calendering, special sizing and preshrunk, form novel mercerising knit fabric, its performance can reach the performance of mariages light fabric, as bright and clean in cloth cover, the soft cunning of feel, dimensionally stable, Shrinkproof crease-resistant, lasting washable effect, and solved the problems such as long, high loss of the time that traditional double mercerising fabric produces and band.
Particularly, on the one hand, the invention provides a kind of preparation method of piece dyeing mercerising knit fabric, the method comprises:
Kiering enzyme is washed processing: wash processing to using the direct knitting knitted fabric obtaining of common non-mercerising yarn to carry out kiering enzyme;
Mercerization finish: kiering enzyme is washed to fabric after treatment and carry out mercerization finish;
Wash water is crossed supple-settlement: the fabric after mercerising is carried out to wash water and cross supple-settlement;
Calendering processing: the fabric that wash water is crossed after supple-settlement carries out calendering processing;
Heat treatment: the fabric after calendering is carried out to modified silicon oil heat treatment;
Preshrunk processing: the fabric after heat treatment is carried out to preshrunk processing, make mercerising fabric.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, without specific specific requirement, can be to use the directly knitting grey cloth obtaining of common non-mercerising yarn to the knitting of grey cloth.For example, can be by knitting two yarns of 30S/1~80S/1 single thread of non-mercerising or the 60S/2~160S/2 grey cloth obtaining.
Novel mercerising fabric of the present invention is knitting piece dyeing kind.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, described kiering enzyme is washed processing can remove oily wax and/or the knitting oil that fabric is infected with, and increases the hydrophily of fabric.
In the present invention, in the time making the novel mercerising fabric of knitting piece dyeing kind, conventionally adopt kiering enzyme to wash PROCESS FOR TREATMENT grey cloth.According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, described kiering enzyme is washed technique and is: when kiering, in treatment fluid, add bleaching pretreating reagent 1.0~2.0g/l, 40%~60% caustic soda 1.5~2.5g/l, 40~50min is processed in 95~100 DEG C of kierings; Enzyme is washed in treatment fluid and is added cellulase 1.5~2g/l, processes 40~50min for 50~60 DEG C.Preferably, when described kiering, in treatment fluid, also can further add the conventional auxiliary agent such as appropriate hydrogen peroxide and froth breaking wetting enhancer, for example, add H 2o 2(27.5%) 3~4g/l, froth breaking wetting enhancer 0.2~0.4g/l.Known or conventional commercially available prod in field under described bleaching pretreating reagent, cellulase, froth breaking wetting enhancer etc. all can adopt, for example, described in the present invention, bleaching pretreating reagent can be multi-functional bleaching pretreating reagent CIarite One (Huntsman), described cellulase can be Cellusoft L (Novi's letter) or Cellusoft combi (Novi's letter), and described froth breaking wetting enhancer can be ALBAFLOW JET.In a specific embodiment of the present invention, described kiering enzyme is washed technique and is: when kiering, in treatment fluid, add multi-functional bleaching pretreating reagent CIarite One1.5g/l, 50% caustic soda 2g/l, H 2o 2(27.5%) 3.6g/l, froth breaking wetting enhancer ALBAFLOW JET0.3g/l, 45~50min is processed in 95~100 DEG C of kierings; Enzyme is washed in treatment fluid and is added cellulase Cellusoft L1.5-2g/l, processes 45~50min for 50~55 DEG C.Knitted fabric is washed after processing completing kiering enzyme, can remove base yarn and be stained with oily wax and the cotton impurity containing itself in cotton spinning and knitting process, increases the hydrophily of COTTON FABRIC, accelerates the speed of follow-up mercerising, is conducive to the increase of mercerising efficiency.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, described mercerization finish technique is: open width mercerising, the dense 24~30Be of alkali (caustic soda), silkete penetrating agent 0.3~0.8g/l; The speed of a motor vehicle 20~25m/min, wet cropping; Preferably continuous mercerized cotton yarn three times (same process).Under described silkete penetrating agent can adopt, the known silkete penetrating agent that can tolerate alkali concn of the present invention in field, for example, can be Floranit4028A (the triumphant chemical industry of section), and its consumption is generally 0.5g/l left and right.In a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferred mercerising condition is: the dense 28Be of alkali, speed of a motor vehicle 20m/min.In the present invention, COTTON FABRIC is after pre-treatment, and hydrophily increases, and when mercerising, caustic soda is accelerated the effect of fabric, has increased the reaction time.Pass through Experimental Comparison, continuous mercerized cotton yarn effect is better than the mercerization effect that reduces the speed of a motor vehicle, when mercerising, caustic soda shows in moment 10S the effect of fabric, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle and can extend the effect of caustic soda to fabric, very little but the follow-up time increases mercerization effect impact.And continuous three mercerisings have the moment of three reactions, greatly increase the effect of mercerising.After three mercerization finishs, fabric sheen can reach the silky luster of mariages light fabric.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, described wash water is crossed supple-settlement and is: excessively soft in cylinder, use hydrophilic softener 1~3g/l, and process 20~25min for 45~50 DEG C.Conventional hydrophilic softener under described hydrophilic softener also can adopt in field, is generally silicon emulsion series softener.In the present invention, preferably adopt silicon emulsion softener ULTRATEX STS-D (Huntsman), its consumption is preferably 2g/l.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the time making the novel mercerising fabric of knitting piece dyeing kind of the present invention, the fabric after mercerising can first dye, and carries out afterwards wash water excessively soft again.Concrete dyeing can carry out according to the routine operation in affiliated field.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, described calendering is processed and is adopted open width calendering, 95~100 DEG C of X20~30m/min, pressure 8~10Mpa.This calendering processing can improve cloth cover gloss, increases machinery soft, promotes feel.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, described heat treatment uses soft finishing agent 60~100g/l, 150~170 DEG C of X20~30m/min sizing.In the present invention, preferred soft finishing agent is DEVANAX D-6100 (Fanyu good and), and its consumption is 80g/l.In addition, when sizing, in treatment fluid, also can selectively add resin according to brute force, for example resin Fixapret ECO (Basf), its consumption can need suitably to control according to brute force.Heat treatment of the present invention can increase fabric sofetening feel, sizing lines, stable shrink.
According to specific embodiment of the invention scheme, in the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, described preshrunk is treated to the preshrunk of blanket formula preshrinking machine, twice of the preferred preshrunk of the speed of a motor vehicle 20~30m/min..
In the preparation method of mercerising fabric of the present invention, also can comprise as required some routine operations in this area, such as squezzing, oven dry etc.The present invention is mainly by grey cloth enzyme being washed to reaction speed, the reaction time of processing and then change cloth mercerising and being coordinated the calendering of cloth and make soft technique, thereby makes fabric reach the gloss handle effect of traditional double mercerising.
On the other hand, the present invention also provides a kind of piece dyeing mercerising knit fabric, and it is made and obtain according to the method described in the present invention.This mercerising fabric cloth cover is bright and clean, the soft cunning of feel, dimensionally stable, Shrinkproof crease-resistant, washable lastingly, and its performance can reach the performance of mariages light fabric.
According to a specific embodiments of the present invention, mercerising knit fabric of the present invention is knitting piece dyeing kind, and this mercerising fabric is made and obtained in accordance with the following methods:
A. complete with common non-mercerising yarn knitting, form knitted fabric, carry out kiering and enzyme and wash, can not cross softener.Be stained with oily wax and the cotton impurity that contains hydrophilic impact on cotton itself except base yarn in cotton spinning and knitting process by kiering and enzyme decontamination, increase the hydrophily of COTTON FABRIC, accelerate the speed of follow-up mercerising, be conducive to the increase of mercerising efficiency.Concrete technology is multi-functional bleaching pretreating reagent CIarite One, 1.5g/l; 50% caustic soda, 2g/l; H 2o 2(27.5%), 3.6g/l; Froth breaking wetting enhancer ALBAFLOW JET0.3g/l, kiering: 95~100 DEG C of X45min, deoxidation; Cellulase Cellusoft L or Cellusoft combi:1.5-2g/l, 50~55 DEG C of X45~50min.
B. open width mercerising, technique is: the dense 28Be of alkali, silkete penetrating agent Floranit4028A:0.5g/l; Speed of a motor vehicle 20m/min, wet cropping, continuous mercerized cotton yarn three times, makes the gloss of fabric mercerising reach the silky luster of mariages light fabric.
C. dyeing and wash water, excessively soft in cylinder after dyeing, cross soft use hydrophilic softener ULTRATEX STS-D2g/l, 45~50 DEG C of X20~25min.
D. calendering, adopts open width calendering, 95~100 DEG C of X20m/min.Pressure 8Mpa.Calendering can improve cloth cover gloss, increases mechanical soft effect, promotes feel.
E. sizing, is used hydrophily soft finishing agent ULTRATEX STS-D:75g/l and resin Fixapret ECO (determining according to brute force), and 160 DEG C of X20m/min sizings, increase soft feel, sizing lines, stable shrink.
F. blanket formula preshrinking machine preshrunk twice, the speed of a motor vehicle: 20m/min increases DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and the machinery softness of fabric.
Make the knit fabric obtaining according to method of the present invention, its performance can reach the performance of mariages light fabric, and feel is powerful good, dimensionally stable, good endurance.
In sum, the invention provides a kind of novel mercerising knit fabric and preparation method thereof, the present invention adopts common non-mercerising yarn directly to weave cotton cloth, by serial dyeing and finishing processing, make the novel mercerising fabric with mariages light fabric performance, save the time that yarn filaments photoproduction is produced, shortened more than 30 day production cycle; Reduce the loss of yarn singeing and mercerising, avoided the problem of the yarn-dyed yarn process of mercerising ectonexine aberration, reduced the cost of material of mercerising fabric; Avoid the grey cloth band producing at knitting process because of mercerising yarn, improved the quality of mercerising fabric.Novel mercerising fabric of the present invention, cloth cover is bright and clean, the soft cunning of feel, dimensionally stable, Shrinkproof crease-resistant, washable lastingly.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is knitting piece dyeing kind FB(flow block) in the present invention's one specific embodiment.
Fig. 2 A~Fig. 2 C is respectively the micro-comparison diagram in fibre section of the fabric (Fig. 2 C) of the novel mercerising fabric (Fig. 2 A) of embodiments of the invention 1, traditional mariages light fabric (Fig. 2 B) and comparative example 1.
Detailed description of the invention
Understand for technical characterictic of the present invention, object and beneficial effect being had more clearly, now in conjunction with instantiation and accompanying drawing, technical scheme of the present invention is carried out to following detailed description, should understand these examples and only be not used in and limit the scope of the invention for the present invention is described.The step of not mentioning in detail in each embodiment all can be carried out according to the routine operation in affiliated field.
The novel mercerising fabric of the knitting piece dyeing kind of embodiment 1.
Below with a width 62inch that manufactures a finished product, finished product grammes per square metre 150GM, CPI=46, the novel mercerising fabric of one side plain weave piece dyeing all-cotton knitting of WPI=41.5 is example, the production method of this fabric comprises step (simultaneously shown in Figure 1):
Base yarn is knitting: select 137Compact yarn60S/2 to carry out knitting weaving cotton cloth, specifically, and start modulus 96F, 28G30 " the long 50C=132MM of yarn.Adopt MV4II one side type to knit solid color plain weave flower type, knitting complete standby cloth.
Kiering enzyme is washed: technique is multi-functional bleaching pretreating reagent Clarite One1.5g/l, 50% caustic soda 2g/l, H 2o 2(27.5%) 3.6g/l, froth breaking wetting enhancer ALBAFLOW JET0.3g/l, 45~50min is processed in 95~100 DEG C of kierings; Cellusoft L or Cellusoft combi, 1.5g/l, processes 45min for 50 DEG C.
Open-width squezzing: use new scutcher squezzing.
Wet cloth leveling sizing: leveling is to prepare for open width mercerising, makes to keep lines straight before and after mercerising.
Open width mercerising: continuous mercerized cotton yarn three times, technique is: the dense 28Be of alkali, silkete penetrating agent Floranit4028A:0.5g/l; Speed of a motor vehicle 20m/min, wet cropping, makes the gloss of fabric mercerising reach the silky luster of mariages light fabric.
Tape edge and dyeing, first infiltration is processed, and adds dyestuff, levelling agent and saline and alkaline some, through soaping, crossing soft use hydrophily silicon emulsion softener ULTRATEX STS-D2g/l, 45 DEG C of X20min, last fixation goes out cylinder.
Dehydration is controlled and is taken out stitches: go out centrifuge dewatering after cylinder, control, wet cloth is taken out stitches, and controls, then dries.
Calendering: calendering adopts open width calendering, 100 DEG C of X20m/min.Pressure 8Mpa.Calendering can improve cloth cover gloss, increases mechanical soft effect, promotes feel.
Sizing: sizing is mainly to use special soft finishing agent ULTRATEX STS-D:75g/l and resin Fixapret ECO (determining according to brute force), and 160 DEG C of X20m/min sizings, increase soft feel, sizing lines, stable shrink.
Preshrunk: with the preshrunk of blanket formula preshrinking machine, increase fabric and shrink stable.Twice of preshrunk.
The production method of above-mentioned novel mercerising knit fabric can be carried out suitable technique adjustment according to the style of different fabrics and customer requirement, but must before mercerising, carry out kiering enzyme and wash processing, could improve the reaction speed of mercerising, extend the mercerising reaction time by three open width mercerisings and improve the degree of mercerising, reach the gloss of mariages light fabric.By enzyme wash, calendering preshrunk and sizing, can produce the novel mercerising knit fabric of powerful good, the dimensionally stable of feel, good endurance.
Comparative example 1
With reference to embodiment 1 manufacture a finished product a width 62inch, finished product grammes per square metre 150GM, CPI=46, the one side plain weave piece dyeing all-cotton knitting fabric of WPI=41.5, the production technology of this fabric is compared with embodiment 1, difference is that not carrying out kiering enzyme before comparative example 1 mercerising washes technique, mercerization carries out traditionally, and other techniques are substantially with embodiment 1.
Fabric performance test
The fabric of above-described embodiment 1 and comparative example 1 detects through Guangzhou examination of fibers, and related detecting method and result are as follows:
A. mercerising degree detecting
Refer to shown in Fig. 2 A~Fig. 2 C, be respectively the micro-comparison diagram in fibre section of the fabric (Fig. 2 C) of the novel mercerising fabric (Fig. 2 A) of embodiments of the invention 1, traditional mariages light fabric (Fig. 2 B), comparative example 1.
Fig. 2 A (embodiment 1) and Fig. 2 B (traditional double mercerising fabric) are compared and can be found out, the mercerising degree of novel mercerising fabric of the present invention and traditional double mercerising fabric is basically identical.And compare and can find out with Fig. 2 C (comparative example 1) again, mercerising degree and the present invention of the fabric of comparative example 1 differ greatly, and in Fig. 2 C, the reaction of cotton fiber mercerising only has part, major part to present kidney shape, and mercerising reaction is more complete in Fig. 2 A, major part is all mellow and full full.
B. physical testing
The novel mercerising fabric of the knitting piece dyeing of embodiment 1
Test event Method of testing Test result Standard
Shrink AATCC135IIIA -5.5X-6.9 -8.0X-8.0
Powerful ASTM?D3786 70 >55
Pilling ASTM?D3512 4.0 >3.5
C. feel gloss rating
With the identical common yarn of yarn count according to above-described embodiment 1 production process processing and traditional double mercerising fabric novel mercerising fabric of color type, color mutually, relatively feel and the gloss between them, in six groups of samples, have novel mercerising fabric gloss and feel in 4 groups to exceed traditional double mercerising fabric, the gloss of 2 groups and feel are very approaching.

Claims (9)

1. a preparation method for piece dyeing mercerising knit fabric, the method comprises:
Kiering enzyme is washed processing: wash processing to using the direct knitting knitted fabric obtaining of common non-mercerising yarn to carry out kiering enzyme;
Mercerization finish: carry out mercerization finish to wash fabric after treatment through enzyme;
Wash water is crossed supple-settlement: the fabric after mercerising is carried out to wash water and cross supple-settlement;
Calendering processing: the fabric that wash water is crossed after supple-settlement carries out calendering processing;
Heat treatment: the fabric after calendering is carried out to modified silicon oil heat treatment;
Preshrunk processing: the fabric after heat treatment is carried out to preshrunk processing, make mercerising fabric.
2. method according to claim 1, wherein,
Described kiering enzyme is washed technique: when kiering, in treatment fluid, add bleaching pretreating reagent 1.0~2.0g/l, 40%~60% caustic soda 1.5~2.5g/l, preferably also add H 2o 2(27.5%) 3~4g/l, froth breaking wetting enhancer 0.2~0.4g/l, 40~50min is processed in 95~100 DEG C of kierings; Enzyme is washed in treatment fluid and is added cellulase 1.5~2g/l, processes 40~50min for 50~60 DEG C.
3. method according to claim 1, wherein, described mercerization finish technique is: open width mercerising, the dense 24~30Be of alkali, silkete penetrating agent 0.3~0.8g/l; The speed of a motor vehicle 20~25m/min, wet cropping; Preferably continuous mercerized cotton yarn three times.
4. method according to claim 1, wherein, described wash water is crossed supple-settlement and is: excessively soft in cylinder, use hydrophilic softener 1~3g/l, process 20~25min for 45~50 DEG C.
5. method according to claim 1, wherein, described calendering is processed and is adopted open width calendering, 95~100 DEG C of X20~30m/min, pressure 8~10Mpa.
6. method according to claim 1, wherein, described heat treatment uses soft finishing agent 60~100g/l, 150~170 DEG C of X20~30m/min sizing.
7. method according to claim 1, wherein, described preshrunk is treated to the preshrunk of blanket formula preshrinking machine, 20~30m/min; Preferably twice of preshrunk.
8. method according to claim 1, the method is to make the mercerising fabric of knitting piece dyeing kind, wherein, is knitted fabric to be carried out to kiering enzyme wash processing, then through mercerization finish, dyeing afterwards, and then carry out wash water and cross supple-settlement.
9. a mercerising knit fabric, it is made and obtains according to method described in claim 1~8 any one.
CN201410189341.8A 2014-05-06 2014-05-06 Novel piece dyed mercerized knitted fabrics and manufacturing method thereof Pending CN103952848A (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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CN104153198A (en) * 2014-08-21 2014-11-19 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 Imitated mercerized fabric and production technology thereof
CN104153198B (en) * 2014-08-21 2019-06-21 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 A kind of imitative mercerising fabric and its production technology
CN104264447A (en) * 2014-10-14 2015-01-07 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Production method of washable piece-dyed knitted fabric
CN104358054A (en) * 2014-11-03 2015-02-18 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Manufacturing method of washable non-curling knitting collars and cuffs
CN104358054B (en) * 2014-11-03 2016-06-22 广东溢达纺织有限公司 A kind of manufacture method of the washable knitting leader of not crimping
CN105734963A (en) * 2016-04-27 2016-07-06 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Knitted fabric containing cotton and having silky luster, handfeel and cool feeling and manufacturing method thereof
CN105734963B (en) * 2016-04-27 2017-09-12 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Contain cotton knitted fabric and its preparation method with gloss as silk, feel and cool feeling
CN107630361A (en) * 2017-08-13 2018-01-26 浙江雅雪染整有限公司 Silicone oil soft technology in one kind knitting fabric bath

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