CN100590242C - Twine semi-spinning knitting yarn and its producing method - Google Patents

Twine semi-spinning knitting yarn and its producing method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN100590242C
CN100590242C CN200710068264A CN200710068264A CN100590242C CN 100590242 C CN100590242 C CN 100590242C CN 200710068264 A CN200710068264 A CN 200710068264A CN 200710068264 A CN200710068264 A CN 200710068264A CN 100590242 C CN100590242 C CN 100590242C
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yarn
cashmere
spinning
raw material
speed
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CN101050573A (en
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邱淦新
姬树人
李茹珍
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ZHONGXIN WOOL SPINNING CO Ltd ZHEJIANG
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ZHONGXIN WOOL SPINNING CO Ltd ZHEJIANG
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a flax-cashmere semi-worsted knitting yarn and its production method. It is made up by using 25% of flax fiber, 25% of ramie fiber and 50% of cashmere through the processes of raw material pretreatment, mixing, carding, drawing, roving, spinning, coning, doubling, double twisting, yarn steaming, reeling, yarn inspection and formed yarn dyeing.

Description

Twine semi-spinning knitting yarn and production method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of blended yarn, particularly hosiery yarns and the production method thereof that forms by bast-fibre and cashmere fiber blending.
Background technology
With the cashmere is the fabric that raw material is made, because of its have gentle glutinous, the close skin of feel, warming, moisture absorption breathe freely and the color and luster premium properties of giving prominence to such as good, and is subjected to city's field boundary and consumer's favor deeply, but the cashmere raw material is limited and in short supply day by day owing to natural resources.Bast-fibre has the intensity height, it is little to shrink, resistance to acids and bases, characteristics that anti-mould and anti-moth is good, thereby wearability such as the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of its fabric or BLENDED FABRIC, anti-pilling and wrinkle resistance are good, and quick-drying washable, has the anti-mould and anti-moth antibacterial functions simultaneously.
Summary of the invention
One of purpose of the present invention, be for make full use of, the reasonable development cashmere resources, increase the new varieties and the pattern of cashmere product, improve the product price ratio, and provide a kind of hosiery yarns that forms by bast-fibre and cashmere fiber blending, and guarantee that this blended yarn both saved cashmere, keep yarn product and fabric thereof to have soft, the close skin, moisture absorption of pure fleece fabrics product, warming intrinsic good characteristic again, also strengthen the intensity of product simultaneously, anti-pilling, antistatic behaviour and anti-mould and anti-moth antibiotic property.
Two of purpose of the present invention provides the production method of the above-mentioned twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of a kind of cost-effective preparation.
The technical solution that realizes above-mentioned purpose is:
A kind of twine semi-spinning knitting yarn, it be spun into after by all even hair of linen fibre, ramee and cashmere fibres the twist be 1145t/m, Z twist with the fingers to one-ply yarn, be plied to the twist then and be 536t/m, S twist with the fingers to number be three strands of hosiery yarnss of 68Nm/3, the component ratio of this blended knitted yarn is by weight percentage: linen fibre 20%, ramee 20%, cashmere fiber 60% or linen fibre 25%, ramee 25%, cashmere fiber 50%.
The production method of above-mentioned twine semi-spinning knitting yarn comprises pretreatment of raw material → and hair → carding → drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming → reeling → test yarn → processing steps such as strand dyeing yarn, wherein:
In the pretreatment of raw material operation, flax, ramie are softened processing, adopt that the ramie oil agent of fibrous raw material weight 0.5% makes softening agent and fibrous raw material weight 1.5% with the crude oil agent, press the original regain of raw material simultaneously, formulate the addition of soft water, be mixed with flushing liquor with demineralized water, evenly be sprayed on the flax fibre, the regain that makes fiber crops is at 13%-14%.Nutriment 3 hours was gone into Mao Cangzai nutriment 24 hours after the shredding; Cashmere is pressed 0.9%, 1.5%, 0.3% of cashmere weight respectively and is added antistatic additive and crude oil and Ludox after shredding, presses the original regain of raw material simultaneously, formulate the addition of soft water, make and hair after regain be controlled at 22%, nutriment was squeezed into Mao Cang after 3 hours, continued nutriment 24 hours;
Wool blending step adopts secondary and hair;
In the carding process, the machine regain is controlled at 15~18% on the carding machine, carding machine shaping Weight control is at 4~4.5g/m, licker-in rotating speed 980r/min, cylinder rotating speed 330r/min, cover plate speed 122m/min, doffer speed 19r/min, 70.6 times of drafting multiples, feed plate to the licker-in 0.31mm that spaces, cylinder to cover plate space 0.46,0.30,0.26,0.26,0.30mm;
In the spinning process, the workshop temperature is controlled at 25~28 ℃, relative humidity: preceding spinning is controlled at 70~75%, after spin and be controlled at 65~70%.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the present invention has selected appropriate blending proportioning, number and the twist of flax, ramie and goat cashmere blended yarn, some special spinning techniques, preferred technological parameter have been taked, as numb raw material is softened preliminary treatment, three component raw materials carry out secondary and hair, emphasis improves evenness quality and formulates the technological parameter of carding step, rationally control Workshop Production temperature, humidity, thereby successfully make numb suede half spinning knitting blended yarn.It not only kept cashmere product intrinsic gentle glutinous, the close skin of feel, lead wet, warming good characteristic, and more possessed the intensity height, shunk new premium properties such as little, antistatic and anti-mould and anti-moth.Therefore, the present invention provides a new varieties product and a spinning method for genuine thereof of fine qualities, that cost performance is high for cashmere product, and is to increase the cashmere product designs and varieties by the cashmere resources that makes full use of, reasonable development is well sold and in short supply, and the demand that satisfies market contributes.
The specific embodiment
The invention will be further described with embodiment below.
Embodiment 1,
A, the blended yarn raw material, linen fibre adopts combing noil, its average fiber length 18.51mm, average fineness 17.39 μ m; Ramee average length 79.6mm, shearing length is 45mm, average fineness 69 μ m; Goat cashmere is selected average length 38.17mm for use, average fineness 15.46 μ m.Its blending proportion of composing is by weight percentage: linen fibre 20%, ramee 20%, goat cashmere 60%.
B, spinning, be spun into the twist and be 1145t/m, Z twist with the fingers to single thread, be plied to the twist then and be 536t/m, S twist with the fingers to three strands of knitting blended yarns, yam count is 68Nm/3.Its processing step is:
1., pretreatment of raw material, flax, ramee are crisp hard, and interfibrous cohesive force is relatively poor, easily produces not slivering phenomenon, and the preliminary treatment emphasis is to handle flax fibre is softening for this reason.The ramie oil agent of the concrete softening special use of adopting fibrous raw material weight 0.5% and fibrous raw material weight 1.5% with the crude oil agent, press the original regain of raw material simultaneously, formulate the addition of soft water, be mixed with flushing liquor with 25~36 ℃ of demineralized waters, be sprayed at respectively on flax, ramee of even shop layer, the regain that makes fiber crops is 13~14%, nutriment 3 hours, secondary is stirred in the centre, squeezes into mao storehouse nutriment after the shredding respectively 24 hours; After the cashmere fiber shredding, add 0.9%, 1.5%, 0.3% antistatic additive and crude oil and the Ludox press cashmere weight respectively, press the original regain of raw material simultaneously, formulate the addition of soft water, make and the hair after regain be controlled at 22%, nutriment was squeezed into Mao Cang after 3 hours, continued nutriment 24 hours.The ramie oil agent of present embodiment is FD-ZY04B, and China Textile Academy textile auxiliary development centre produces; Antistatic additive is to adopt FK-300, spins chemical industry Co., Ltd in China Textile Academy Beijing and produces; Ludox is CH83-120, and Jiangsu Province Jiangyin Guobang Chemical Co., Ltd. produces; Adopt CTA-990 with crude oil, spin chemical industry Co., Ltd in China Textile Academy Beijing and produce.
2., and hair, with the raw material behind the nutriment of each mao storehouse, send in proportion that mixing willow B261A carries out and hair, and carry out secondary and hair.
3., the A186F carding machine is adopted in carding.For reach fibre damage few, go out the few and fleece of machine card nailing neps purpose clearly, the carding process conditions are formulated: carding machine shaping Weight control 4~4.5g/m, thick-thin-strip returns to be done, licker-in rotating speed 980r/min, cylinder rotating speed 330r/min, cover plate speed 122m/min, doffer speed 19r/min, 70.6 times of drafting multiples, feed plate to the licker-in 0.31mm that spaces, cylinder to cover plate spaces 0.46,0.30,0.26,0.26,0.30mm, 13/gram of machine card nailing neps under the carding machine, and the machine regain about 18% on the fiber.
4., drafting, short at linen fibre, ramee thick, flax fibre rigidity and discreteness are bigger, the characteristics that cashmere fiber curls, the relatively poor easy-to-draw breakdown of monofilament strength is hindered, for three kinds of fibers are fully mixed, and control the inhomogeneous rate of weight and stretch hooked fibre well, and adopting A272F drawing frame 4 road draftings, main technologic parameters is:
Project head and two and three and four also
Total draft (doubly) 8.095 8.883 8.883 8.520
Number of doubling (root) 8888
Spin weight (g/m) 4.05 3.65 3.25 3.0
Ratch (mm) 60 * 68 58 * 66 56 * 64 54 * 62
The speed of a motor vehicle (m/min) 110 120 120 120
The machine regain is controlled at 16% on the drawing frame.After tested, three road drafting weight unevennesses are 0.81%, and it is 0.65% that the CV% value reaches 4.42%, four road drafting weight unevenness, and the CV% value reaches 4.01%.
5., rove adopts the A454G Speed frames, spins weight 0.289g/m, 10.53 times of total draft multiples, 1.18 times of back area drafts, twist 52t/m, ratch 56 * 58mm, ingot speed 585r/min, axial winding density 5.733 circle/cm, roller pressure: preceding green, in white, back in vain.
6., spun yarn adopts EJM461 type fine spining machine, drawing-off partly is the Suessen reel cage, spin weight 4.39g/100m, 20 times of total drafts, 1.21 times of back area drafts, twist 1145t/m, Z to, ratch is 54 * 58mm, ingot speed 7700r/min, nip gauge 3.0mm, No. 17, steel traveler, recording the dried CV% value of spun yarn bar is 24.52%.
7., winder adopts automatic winder ESPERO, speed of a motor vehicle 500m/min, and electronic clearing scope: N 5.8, DS 2.0, and LS 2.0, and DL 1.3, and LL 30, and-D 30, and-L 35.
8., doubling is adopted doubling frame AES, and is closed 3, speed of a motor vehicle 300m/min, and tension piece is not put.
9., double twisting adopts GEMINIS type two-for-one twister, speed of a motor vehicle 8453r/m, a gang twist per unit 487t/m, twist with the fingers to be S to, thigh yarn CV% value 12.81%.
10., yarn steaming, yarn steaming machine OBEM, 75 ℃ of yarn steaming temperature, yarn steaming time 45min.
10., dyeing becomes the strand yarn by reeling behind the yarn steaming, the strand yarn is dyeed, and mainly is the cashmere retarding agents of adding 5% before dyeing, and itself and flax fibre can evenly be painted synchronously, the dyeing back adds 6% softener and is incubated 30 minutes down at 40 ℃, makes the gentle glutinous property of its feel near pure cashmere product.
Present embodiment fiber crops suede half spinning knitting blended yarn finished product after testing, fracture strength reaches 6.7n/tex, 3 grades of anti-fuzz balls, 3~4 grades of dyefastness, yarn unevenness CV% value 13.6%.
Embodiment 2,
A, the blended yarn raw material, linen fibre adopts combing noil, its average fiber length 18.51mm, average fineness 17.39 μ m; Ramee average length 79.6mm, shearing length is 45mm, average fineness 69 μ m; Goat cashmere is selected average length 38.17mm for use, average fineness 15.46 μ m.Its blending proportion of composing is by weight percentage: linen fibre 25%, ramee 25%, goat cashmere 50%.
B, spinning, the spinning twist be 1145t/m, Z twist with the fingers to one-ply yarn, be plied to the twist then and be 536t/m, S sth. made by twisting to bifilar knitting blended yarn, yam count is 68Nm/3.Its processing step and technological parameter are substantially the same manner as Example 1, and just wherein 3., the machine card nailing neps is controlled to be 11/gram under the carding machine of carding process; 4., in the mixing in doubling step, three road drafting irregularities are 0.89%, and it is 0.73% that the CV% value reaches 4.61%, four road drafting irregularity, and the CV% value reaches 4.31%; 6., spinning process, it is 22.9% that the spun yarn bar is done the CV% value.
Present embodiment fiber crops suede half spinning knitting blended yarn after testing, fracture strength reaches 6.9n/tex, 3 grades of anti-fuzz balls, 3~4 grades of dyefastness, yarn unevenness CV% value 15.6%.

Claims (8)

1, a kind of twine semi-spinning knitting yarn, it is characterized in that being spun into after it is by all even hair of linen fibre, ramee and cashmere fibres the twist and be 1145t/m, Z twist with the fingers to one-ply yarn, be plied to the twist then and be 536t/m, S twist with the fingers to number be three strands of hosiery yarnss of 68Nm/3, the component ratio of this blended knitted yarn is by weight percentage: linen fibre 20%, ramee 20%, cashmere fiber 60% or linen fibre 25%, ramee 25%, cashmere fiber 50%.
2, by the described twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of claim 1, the specification that it is characterized in that the blended yarn raw material select for use into, linen fibre adopts combing noil, its average fiber length 18.51mm, average fineness 17.39 μ m; Ramee average length 79.6mm, shearing length is 45mm, average fineness 69 μ m; Goat cashmere is selected average length 38.17mm for use, average fineness 15.46 μ m.
3, a kind of production method of twine semi-spinning knitting yarn as claimed in claim 1, comprise following process steps: pretreatment of raw material → and hair → carding → drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming → reeling → strand dyeing yarn, it is characterized in that in the pretreatment of raw material operation, to flax, ramie is softened processing, adopt that the ramie oil agent of fibrous raw material weight 0.5% makes softening agent and fibrous raw material weight 1.5% with the crude oil agent, press the original regain of raw material simultaneously, formulate the addition of soft water, be mixed with flushing liquor with demineralized water, evenly be sprayed on the flax fibre, the regain that makes fiber crops is at 13%-14%.Nutriment 3 hours was gone into Mao Cangzai nutriment 24 hours after the shredding; Cashmere is pressed 0.9%, 1.5%, 0.3% of cashmere weight respectively and is added antistatic additive and crude oil and Ludox after shredding, presses the original regain of raw material simultaneously, formulate the addition of soft water, make and hair after regain be controlled at 22%, nutriment was squeezed into Mao Cang after 3 hours, continued nutriment 24 hours; Wool blending step adopts secondary and hair; In the carding process, the machine regain is controlled at 15~18% on the carding machine, carding machine shaping Weight control is at 4~4.5g/m, licker-in rotating speed 980r/min, cylinder rotating speed 330r/min, cover plate speed 122m/min, doffer speed 19r/min, 70.6 times of drafting multiples, feed plate to the licker-in 0.31mm that spaces, cylinder to cover plate space 0.46,0.30,0.26,0.26,0.30mm; In the spinning process, the workshop temperature is controlled at 25~28 ℃, relative humidity: preceding spinning is controlled at 70~75%, after spin and be controlled at 65~70%.
4, press the production method of the described twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that in the carding process, its technological parameter is: carding machine shaping Weight control 4~4.5g/m, thick-thin-strip returns to be done, licker-in rotating speed 980r/min, cylinder rotating speed 330r/min, cover plate speed 122m/min, doffer speed 19r/min, 70.6 times of drafting multiples, feed plate to the licker-in 0.31mm that spaces, cylinder to cover plate space 0.46,0.30,0.26,0.26,0.30mm, 13/gram of machine card nailing neps under the carding machine, machine regain 18% on the fiber.
5, by the production method of the described twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that mixing in doubling step adopts 4 road draftings, its main technologic parameters is:
Project head and two and three and four also
8.095 times 8.883 times 8.883 times 8.520 times of total drafts
8888 of number of doubling
Spin weight 4.05g/m 3.65g/m 3.25g/m 3.0g/m
Roller center 60 * 68mm, 58 * 66mm, 56 * 64mm, 54 * 62mm
Speed of a motor vehicle 110m/min 120m/min 120m/min 120m/min
The machine regain is controlled at 16% on the drawing frame.
6, press the production method of the described twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that the rove operation, adopt the A454G Speed frames, its technological parameter is: spin weight 0.289g/m, 10.53 times of total draft multiples, 1.18 times of back area drafts, twist 52t/m, ratch 56 * 58mm, ingot speed 585r/min, axial winding density 5.733 circle/cm, roller pressure: preceding green, in white, the back is white.
7, press the production method of the described twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that spinning process, adopt EJM461 type fine spining machine, drawing-off partly is the Suessen reel cage, its technological parameter is: spin weight 4.39g/100m, 20 times of total drafts, 1.21 times of back area drafts, twist 1145t/m, Z to, ratch is 54 * 58mm, ingot speed 7700r/min, nip gauge 3.0mm, No. 17, steel traveler.
8, by the production method of the described twine semi-spinning knitting yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that in the dyeing process strand yarn being dyeed is the cashmere retarding agents of adding 5% before dyeing, and the dyeing back adds 6% softener and is incubated 30 minutes down at 40 ℃.
CN200710068264A 2007-04-29 2007-04-29 Twine semi-spinning knitting yarn and its producing method Expired - Fee Related CN100590242C (en)

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