EP2694014A2 - Produit de soin capillaire - Google Patents

Produit de soin capillaire

Info

Publication number
EP2694014A2
EP2694014A2 EP12711566.5A EP12711566A EP2694014A2 EP 2694014 A2 EP2694014 A2 EP 2694014A2 EP 12711566 A EP12711566 A EP 12711566A EP 2694014 A2 EP2694014 A2 EP 2694014A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
conditioner
weight
alkyl
microemulsion
conditioner according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP12711566.5A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Matthias HILOUCHA
Jasmin Menzer
Hans-Martin Haake
Werner Seipel
Marc Beuché
Cristina Amela Conesa
Stéphane LACOUTIÉRE
Guadalupe PELLÓN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cognis IP Management GmbH
Original Assignee
Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis IP Management GmbH filed Critical Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority to EP12711566.5A priority Critical patent/EP2694014A2/fr
Publication of EP2694014A2 publication Critical patent/EP2694014A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a conditioner in the form of an optically nontransparent dispersion containing at least one cationic surfactant, a microemulsion comprising b1) at least one alkyl glycoside and / or an alkyloligoglycoside, b2) at least one cosurfactant which does not fall under the definition of b1), b3) an organic oil phase, and b4) water, at least one fatty alcohol, optionally further surfactants, and optionally further cosmetic additives, wherein the sum of all present in the conditioner surfactants account for at most 10 wt .-% of the conditioner, as well as its use and preparation ,
  • conditioners are hair products that are used to condition hair. They are brought into contact, for example, after washing the hair in the form of a rinse with the hair.
  • conditioners contain a relatively small proportion of surfactants, since they are not used for washing but for conditioning, in particular conditioning the hair.
  • conditioners are in the form of optically nontransparent dispersions in which, for example, fatty alcohols or waxes are dispersed in an aqueous matrix. After washing, hair often feels rough and brittle, especially if they are already damaged by environmental factors. Hair may also be damaged by dyeing or perming and are then characterized after shampooing often by a dry, strawy handle. Therefore, hair conditioners often called conditioning agents, used to counteract these disadvantages.
  • the conditioners can be used in shampoos, they can also be used in the above conditioners.
  • hair care products containing as conditioning silicone silicones can u. U. irreversibly on the hair and thus in turn cause negative effects on the handle, in the worst case, they even lead to problems when dyeing and perming hair.
  • conditioners which manage without silicones and are nevertheless effective.
  • Other suitable conditioning agents in these cosmetic preparations are oils and waxes. However, these are by far not as pronounced in their effect as the above-mentioned silicones. Moreover, by using these conditioning agents often only turbid formulations are possible or these oils and waxes can be stabilized often only in small amounts in the preparations.
  • Small particle sizes of the dispersed phase in emulsions lead to particularly strong interactions with surfaces such as e.g. Hair, because the surface-to-volume ratio is particularly large. Furthermore, they contribute to good sensory properties and good tolerability.
  • EP 1722860 describes a shampoo composition containing anionic surfactants, a microemulsion of silicones and cationic polymers.
  • cosmetic preparations which, in addition to alkoxylated surfactants, contain microemulsions which contain silicone oils and are based on anionic surfactants.
  • EP 0529883 describes preparations which, in addition to lauryl ether sulfate and betaine, contain a cationic deposition polymer. The disadvantage here is that only silicone oils can be used and alkoxylated surfactants are included.
  • alkoxylated surfactants usually alkyl ether sulfates
  • skin irritations may occur in the application of the cosmetic products and moreover the calls for "green cosmetics" which are free of alkoxylated compounds are increasing to provide hair care products with good conditioning performance.
  • WO2008 / 155075 describes cosmetic preparations which, in addition to non-alkoxylated surfactants, contain a microemulsion and at least one cationic polymer. These preparations are used as conditioning agents in shampoos and hair-treatment agents. For a better conditioning effect, a cationic polymer must be used.
  • the content of surfactants is up to 20 wt .-%. These high levels of surfactants can lead to skin irritation especially in leave-on products such as hair conditioners.
  • Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 124, Number 5, May 2008, pages 58 to 69 discloses that shampoos containing microemulsions have good hair conditioning properties. Conditioners containing microemulsions are not disclosed.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a conditioner which has a good conditioning performance, in particular improves the combability of the hair.
  • This good conditioning performance should be achieved without necessarily silicones (which belong to the silicon compounds) or alkoxylated ingredients must be used.
  • This object is achieved by containing a conditioner in the form of an optically nontransparent dispersion
  • the conditioner according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion in which finely divided, water-immiscible particles which contain the components b1), b2) and b3) are dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. These particles are so small that the conditioner would be present as a transparent microemulsion if no further dispersed particles were present.
  • the conditioner according to the invention larger particles are further dispersed, the including at least one fatty alcohol C).
  • the conditioner appears visually intransparent overall.
  • some replacement of the components of the conditioner may occur, e.g. for example, some of the oil phase b3) may pass into the large dispersed particles, or some of the fatty alcohol C) may pass into the small dispersed particles.
  • the conditioner of the invention contains a continuous aqueous phase.
  • the water contained therein may, especially if the preparation is such that a microemulsion is brought together with the other components, which may also comprise water, come from the microemulsion or from the other components. Once combined, there is only one water phase left and it can not be distinguished where the water came from.
  • the water referred to in claim 1 with b4) means water which may originate from the microemulsion optionally used for the preparation of the conditioner or which may originate from the other components. The same applies to the quantities in claim 5, in which the water components from b4) and F) add to a total amount of water, regardless of where they come from.
  • the conditioners according to the invention contain cationic surfactants. Quaternary ammonium compounds of the formula I and / or II are particularly useful as cationic surfactants.
  • R and R 1 are independently linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • R 3 is either the same R
  • R 1 or R 2 is or represents an aromatic radical.
  • X is either a halide, methosulfate, methophosphate or phosphate ion and mixtures from these.
  • Examples of cationic compounds of the formula (I) are didecyldimethylammonium chloride, ditallowdimethylammonium chloride or dihexadecylammonium chloride. Typical examples further include hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, or hydroxyethyl hydroxycetyl dimonium chloride.
  • ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds such as dialkyl ammonium methosulfates and Methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfate and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series such as dicocoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methosulfate, can be used as cationic surfactants.
  • ester quats are so-called ester quats. Esterquats are characterized by excellent biodegradability. You can give the conditioner according to the invention a special soft touch.
  • R 4 is an aliphatic alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds;
  • R 5 is H, OH or 0 (CO) R 7 ,
  • R 6 is independently of R 5 is H, OH or 0 (CO) R 8 , wherein R 7 and R 8 are each independently an aliphatic alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms having 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, m, n and p may each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 have.
  • X can be either a halide, methosulfate, methophosphate or phosphate ion, as well as mixtures of these. Preference is given to compounds which contain the group 0 (CO) R 7 for R 5 and to alkyl radicals having 16 to 18 carbon atoms for R 4 and R 7 . Particularly preferred are compounds in which R 6 is also OH.
  • Examples of compounds of the formula (II) are methyl N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N-di (tallowacyl oxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate, bis (palmitoyl) ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate, N -Methyl N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (dioleoylethyl) ammonium methosulfate or methyl ⁇ , ⁇ -bis (acyloxyethyl) -N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate.
  • quaternized compounds of the formula (II) which have unsaturated alkyl chains preference is given to the acyl groups whose corresponding fatty acids have an iodine number between 5 and 80, preferably between 10 and 60 and in particular between 15 and 45 and which have a cis / trans isomeric ratio (in% by weight) of greater than 30:70, preferably greater than 50:50 and especially greater than 70:30.
  • acyl groups whose corresponding fatty acids have an iodine number between 5 and 80, preferably between 10 and 60 and in particular between 15 and 45 and which have a cis / trans isomeric ratio (in% by weight) of greater than 30:70, preferably greater than 50:50 and especially greater than 70:30.
  • Commercially available examples are methylhydroxyalkyl-dialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates or the products of Cognis known under Dehyquart TM.
  • ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
  • technical C12 / 18 coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hydrogenated C16 / 18 tallow or palm oil fatty acids and elaidic acid rich C16 / 18 fatty acid cuts are used.
  • the fatty acids and the triethanolamine in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 can be used.
  • a use ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 9: 1 has proved to be particularly advantageous.
  • the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9, and are derived from technical C16 / 18 tallow or palm oil fatty acids.
  • esterquats also include quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines.
  • the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines may be mentioned as a further group of suitable esterquats.
  • other suitable esterquats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond, preferably based on diethylenetriamine.
  • short-chain, water-soluble, quaternary ammonium compounds such as trihydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate or the alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds such as trihydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate or the alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lau
  • R 21 and R 22 are independent each represent an aliphatic radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds.
  • R 12 , R 13 and R 14 independently represent a C 1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group, R 15 and R 16 each independently selected C 8-28 - represents alkyl group and r is a number between 0 and 5.
  • protonated alkylamine compounds as well as the non-quaternized, protonated precursors of cationic emulsifiers are suitable.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates. Both fatty acids and the corresponding triglycerides can be used to prepare the esterquats. It is also possible to carry out the condensation of the alkanolamines with the fatty acids in the presence of defined amounts of dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid and / or dodecanedioic acid.
  • dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid and / or dodecanedioic acid.
  • esterquats there is a partial oligomeric structure of the esterquats, which may have an advantageous effect on the Klariösige of the products particularly when adipic acid.
  • the esterquats in the form of 50 to 90 wt .-% iger alcoholic solutions in the trade, which can be easily diluted with water if necessary.
  • the conditioner according to the invention contains a microemulsion.
  • Microemulsions are understood to mean all macroscopically homogeneous, optically transparent, low-viscosity and in particular thermodynamically stable mixtures of two immiscible liquids and at least one nonionic or ionic surfactant.
  • the average particle sizes of the microemulsions are usually below 100 nm, they have a high transparency and are stable on centrifugation at 2000 rpm for at least 30 minutes against a visible phase separation.
  • the preparation of the microemulsions is preferably carried out simply by mixing the oil phase with the other oil-soluble ingredients, heating the oil phase above the melting point of all components and subsequent addition of the aqueous surfactant-containing phase.
  • the thermodynamically stable microemulsion then forms spontaneously, if necessary, a little more stirring is required.
  • microemulsion B) containing in the conditioner according to the invention contains
  • the microemulsion contains B):
  • All wt .-% data b1) to b4) refer to the total amount of microemulsion.
  • microemulsion B consists of:
  • All wt .-% data b1) to b4) refer to the total amount of microemulsion.
  • the microemulsion contains as compulsory constituents at least one sugar surfactant, namely at least one alkyl glycoside and / or one alkyl oligoglycoside.
  • alkyl (oligo) glycosides is used synonymously with alkyl (poly) glycosides and is also designated by the abbreviation "APG.”
  • Alkyl glycosides and / or an alkyl oligoglycoside include both alkyl and alkenyl (oligo) glycosides and are preferred the formula (VI)
  • the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • APGs are contained in the microemulsions according to the present invention in amounts between 4 and 30 wt .-%, each based on the total amount of the microemulsion. Amounts in the range of 10 to 25 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • esters of glycerol with fatty acids of chain length C12-C22 are preferably used in the microemulsion.
  • partial esters and in particular monoesters of glycerol are used, in particular monoesters of glycerol with unsaturated linear fatty acids being suitable.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is glycerol monooleate.
  • These glycerol esters are present in the microemulsions in amounts of from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10, in each case based on the total weight of the microemulsion.
  • the microemulsions still contain an organic oil phase.
  • organic oil phase that is, a non-water-soluble organic phase, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight.
  • Particularly preferred organic oil phases are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 20 C atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or Esters of branched C6-C13 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, triglycerides based on C6- Cio fatty acids, esters of C 2 -C 12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2
  • solid fats and / or waxes can also be used as the oil phase. These may also be in mixture with the oils mentioned in the previous section.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids.
  • Waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Espartog raswachs, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), Petralatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
  • natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Espartog raswachs, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan
  • Particularly preferred oil phases can Esteröle such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, Ethylhexylstearate, di-n-octyl carbonates, Dicaprylylcarbonate, yristylmyristat, myristyl palmitate, yristylstearat, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, yristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate
  • microemulsions Another essential component of microemulsions is water.
  • the water should preferably be demineralized.
  • the microemulsions preferably contain up to 80% by weight of water. Preferred ranges for the proportion of water in the microemulsion are amounts of from 20 to 80% by weight and in particular from 30 to 65% by weight of water in the microemulsion.
  • a preferred water content of greater than 60 wt .-% based on the total amount of conditioner. This means that in the 60 wt .-%, the proportion of water from the containing microemulsion is included.
  • water is included in the other ingredients that are never free of water.
  • the conditioner contains as additional constituent C) or fatty alcohols of the general formula (VII) R24-OH (VII), wherein R 24 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • Fatty alcohols are preferably used in amounts of 2 to 10 wt .-%, based on the conditioner, wherein the range of 1 to 8 wt .-% is particularly preferred. These fatty alcohols, which are water-insoluble organic constituents, according to the invention are not covered by the definition of the oil phase in the microemulsion.
  • the conditioner as component D may contain other surfactants.
  • These other surfactants are selected from the group formed by anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates, mono and dialkyl succinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their derivatives Salts, fatty acid isothionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acylglutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulphates, alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, protein fatty acid
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid poly glycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or optionally mixed partially oxidized alk (en) yloligoglycosides or Glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Alkyl sulfate is preferred, and more preferably a combination of alkyl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine, most preferably a combination of lauryl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • the anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are preferably mixed in amounts of 0-5 wt .-% of the conditioner.
  • cosurfactants according to the invention are in particular glycerin fatty acid esters and have already been described above for the microemulsion.
  • the glycerol monostearyl esters are preferred. If the cosurfactants are used here, they are preferably present in the conditioner at 0-5% by weight.
  • the sum of the further surfactants of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and cosurfactants is thus preferably between 0 and 10 wt .-% calculated as the active substance, based on the total amount of conditioner.
  • the conditioner according to the invention may contain as component E) further cosmetic additives.
  • further cosmetic additives which are selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, salt, thickening agents, bodying agents, inorganic and organic UV photoprotective filters, self-tanner, pigments, antioxidants, hydrotopes , biogenic agents, dyes, preservatives preferably benzoic acid or citric acid, humectants such as glycerol, ethanol, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents and perfumes.
  • tocopherol tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme Q10, ascorbic acid, retinol and retinyl derivatives, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, essential oils, hyaluronic acid, creatine, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts are mentioned as biogenic agents , Peptides and vitamin complexes are preferred. Examples
  • Plantasil® Micro is a microemulsion and has the following composition:
  • Dehyquart® L80 has the following INCI name: Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Propylene Glycol 2. Manufacturing Specification:
  • Conditioner conditioning tests were performed on 10 strands of hair in an automated wet combing system.
  • the hair was swollen for 30 minutes in water and then rinsed with an automatic Najiauskaparatur for 1 minute.
  • the combing forces were determined during 20 combings and the combing work was calculated by integrating the measured force-displacement curves.
  • the hair was immediately treated with the formulation (0.125 g / g hair).
  • the automatic Najiauskaparatur under standard conditions (38 ° C, 11 / minute).

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un conditionneur sous la forme d'une dispersion optiquement opaque, contenant au moins un agent tensioactif cationique, une microémulsion contenant b1) au moins un alkylglycoside et/ou un alkyloligoglycoside, b2) au moins un co-agent tensioactif, lequel ne tombe pas sous la définition de b1), b3) une phase huileuse organique, et b4) de l'eau, au moins un alcool gras, éventuellement d'autres agents tensioactifs, et éventuellement d'autres additifs cosmétiques. La somme de tous les agents tensioactifs présents dans le conditionneur représente une proportion de 10 % en poids du conditionneur au maximum. L'invention concerne également son utilisation et sa préparation.
EP12711566.5A 2011-04-01 2012-03-23 Produit de soin capillaire Withdrawn EP2694014A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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EP12711566.5A EP2694014A2 (fr) 2011-04-01 2012-03-23 Produit de soin capillaire

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EP11160780 2011-04-01
PCT/EP2012/001270 WO2012130413A2 (fr) 2011-04-01 2012-03-23 Produit de soin capillaire
EP12711566.5A EP2694014A2 (fr) 2011-04-01 2012-03-23 Produit de soin capillaire

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EP2694014A2 true EP2694014A2 (fr) 2014-02-12

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US (1) US20140017185A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2694014A2 (fr)
JP (1) JP2014517810A (fr)
KR (1) KR20140019427A (fr)
CN (1) CN103826600A (fr)
WO (1) WO2012130413A2 (fr)

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FR2999078B1 (fr) * 2012-12-11 2015-08-07 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant l'association de tensioactifs non ionique et cationique, et procede de traitement cosmetique
EP2981245B1 (fr) 2013-04-05 2023-03-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition de soin personnel contenant une preparation pre-emulsionnée
US10806688B2 (en) 2014-10-03 2020-10-20 The Procter And Gamble Company Method of achieving improved volume and combability using an anti-dandruff personal care composition comprising a pre-emulsified formulation
WO2016101262A1 (fr) * 2014-12-26 2016-06-30 L'oreal Composition de conditionnement des cheveux
US9993404B2 (en) 2015-01-15 2018-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Translucent hair conditioning composition
EP3405168A1 (fr) 2016-01-20 2018-11-28 The Procter and Gamble Company Composition de conditionnement capillaire comprenant un monoalkyl glycéryl éther
BR112020004478B1 (pt) 2017-09-06 2023-03-21 Evonik Operations Gmbh Composição contendo composto de amônio quaternário, especialmente para produzir formulações de cuidados e limpeza
KR20190034084A (ko) * 2017-09-22 2019-04-01 (주)아모레퍼시픽 모발 관리용 조성물
WO2019059608A1 (fr) * 2017-09-22 2019-03-28 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Composition de soins capillaires
EP3533435B1 (fr) * 2018-02-28 2022-07-13 Kao Corporation Composition de nettoyage et de conditionnement pour fibres de kératine, procédé, utilisation et kit de pièces associé

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JP2014517810A (ja) 2014-07-24
US20140017185A1 (en) 2014-01-16
KR20140019427A (ko) 2014-02-14
WO2012130413A3 (fr) 2014-04-17
CN103826600A (zh) 2014-05-28
WO2012130413A2 (fr) 2012-10-04

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