EP2694014A2

EP2694014A2 - Hair care agent

Info

Publication number: EP2694014A2
Application number: EP12711566.5A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Matthias HILOUCHA; Jasmin Menzer; Hans-Martin Haake; Werner Seipel; Marc Beuché; Cristina Amela Conesa; Stéphane LACOUTIÉRE; Guadalupe PELLÓN
Original assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH
Current assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date: 2011-04-01
Filing date: 2012-03-23
Publication date: 2014-02-12
Also published as: CN103826600A; WO2012130413A3; US20140017185A1; JP2014517810A; WO2012130413A2; KR20140019427A

Abstract

The invention relates to a conditioner in the form of an optically non-transparent dispersion containing at least one cationic surfactant, a micro emulsion containing b1) at least one alkyl glycoside and/or an alkyl oligoglycoside, b2) at least one co-surfactant which does not fall under the definition of b1), b3) an organic oil phase, and b4) water, at least one fatty alcohol, optionally further surfactants and optionally further cosmetic additives, wherein the sum of all the surfactants present in the conditioner makes up a proportion of at most 10 wt % of the conditioner. The invention also relates to the use and production thereof.

Description

A hair product

The present invention relates to a conditioner in the form of an optically nontransparent dispersion containing at least one cationic surfactant, a microemulsion comprising b1) at least one alkyl glycoside and / or an alkyloligoglycoside, b2) at least one cosurfactant which does not fall under the definition of b1), b3) an organic oil phase, and b4) water, at least one fatty alcohol, optionally further surfactants, and optionally further cosmetic additives, wherein the sum of all present in the conditioner surfactants account for at most 10 wt .-% of the conditioner, as well as its use and preparation ,

So-called conditioners are hair products that are used to condition hair. They are brought into contact, for example, after washing the hair in the form of a rinse with the hair. In contrast to shampoos, conditioners contain a relatively small proportion of surfactants, since they are not used for washing but for conditioning, in particular conditioning the hair. Typically, conditioners are in the form of optically nontransparent dispersions in which, for example, fatty alcohols or waxes are dispersed in an aqueous matrix. After washing, hair often feels rough and brittle, especially if they are already damaged by environmental factors. Hair may also be damaged by dyeing or perming and are then characterized after shampooing often by a dry, strawy handle. Therefore, hair conditioners often called conditioning agents, used to counteract these disadvantages. The conditioners can be used in shampoos, they can also be used in the above conditioners. Frequently one finds hair care products containing as conditioning silicone silicones. However, these can u. U. irreversibly on the hair and thus in turn cause negative effects on the handle, in the worst case, they even lead to problems when dyeing and perming hair. It is therefore desirable to provide hair care products, in particular conditioners, which manage without silicones and are nevertheless effective. Other suitable conditioning agents in these cosmetic preparations are oils and waxes. However, these are by far not as pronounced in their effect as the above-mentioned silicones. Moreover, by using these conditioning agents often only turbid formulations are possible or these oils and waxes can be stabilized often only in small amounts in the preparations.

Small particle sizes of the dispersed phase in emulsions lead to particularly strong interactions with surfaces such as e.g. Hair, because the surface-to-volume ratio is particularly large. Furthermore, they contribute to good sensory properties and good tolerability.

Shampoo compositions containing silicones are known in the art. Thus, EP 1722860 describes a shampoo composition containing anionic surfactants, a microemulsion of silicones and cationic polymers.

Furthermore, cosmetic preparations are known which, in addition to alkoxylated surfactants, contain microemulsions which contain silicone oils and are based on anionic surfactants. EP 0529883 describes preparations which, in addition to lauryl ether sulfate and betaine, contain a cationic deposition polymer. The disadvantage here is that only silicone oils can be used and alkoxylated surfactants are included.

Through the use of alkoxylated surfactants, usually alkyl ether sulfates, skin irritations may occur in the application of the cosmetic products and moreover the calls for "green cosmetics" which are free of alkoxylated compounds are increasing to provide hair care products with good conditioning performance.

WO2008 / 155075 describes cosmetic preparations which, in addition to non-alkoxylated surfactants, contain a microemulsion and at least one cationic polymer. These preparations are used as conditioning agents in shampoos and hair-treatment agents. For a better conditioning effect, a cationic polymer must be used. The content of surfactants is up to 20 wt .-%. These high levels of surfactants can lead to skin irritation especially in leave-on products such as hair conditioners. Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 124, Number 5, May 2008, pages 58 to 69 discloses that shampoos containing microemulsions have good hair conditioning properties. Conditioners containing microemulsions are not disclosed. The object of the present invention is to provide a conditioner which has a good conditioning performance, in particular improves the combability of the hair. This good conditioning performance should be achieved without necessarily silicones (which belong to the silicon compounds) or alkoxylated ingredients must be used. This object is achieved by containing a conditioner in the form of an optically nontransparent dispersion

A) at least one cationic surfactant,

B) containing a microemulsion

b1) at least one alkyl glycoside and / or one alkyl oligoglycoside,

b2) at least one cosurfactant which does not fall under the definition of b1),

b3) an organic oil phase, and

b4) water,

C) at least one fatty alcohol,

D) optionally other surfactants which do not fall under the definition of A) or C),

E) optionally other cosmetic additives which do not fall under the definition of A), C) or D),

wherein the sum of all surfactants present in the conditioner make up at most 10% by weight of the conditioner. Optically non-transparent dispersion means that the conditioner appears hazy or milky when viewed with the naked eye and not transparent like a microemulsion. Dispersion means both emulsion (a liquid phase dispersed in a second liquid phase) and suspension (a solid phase dispersed in a liquid phase). Thus, the conditioner according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion in which finely divided, water-immiscible particles which contain the components b1), b2) and b3) are dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. These particles are so small that the conditioner would be present as a transparent microemulsion if no further dispersed particles were present. However, in the conditioner according to the invention larger particles are further dispersed, the including at least one fatty alcohol C). As a result, the conditioner appears visually intransparent overall. Of course, due to the manufacturing process, some replacement of the components of the conditioner may occur, e.g. For example, some of the oil phase b3) may pass into the large dispersed particles, or some of the fatty alcohol C) may pass into the small dispersed particles.

The conditioner of the invention contains a continuous aqueous phase. The water contained therein may, especially if the preparation is such that a microemulsion is brought together with the other components, which may also comprise water, come from the microemulsion or from the other components. Once combined, there is only one water phase left and it can not be distinguished where the water came from. In that regard, the water referred to in claim 1 with b4) means water which may originate from the microemulsion optionally used for the preparation of the conditioner or which may originate from the other components. The same applies to the quantities in claim 5, in which the water components from b4) and F) add to a total amount of water, regardless of where they come from.

Particular embodiments of the conditioner according to the invention are given by the subject matters of the dependent claims of claim 1. Further objects of the present invention are the use of the conditioner according to the invention and the preparation of the conditioner according to the invention according to the corresponding patent claims.

As component A, the conditioners according to the invention contain cationic surfactants. Quaternary ammonium compounds of the formula I and / or II are particularly useful as cationic surfactants.

Wherein (I) R and R ^{1 are} independently linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} a saturated C ¹ -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, R ^{3 is} either the same R, R ¹ or R ² is or represents an aromatic radical. X is either a halide, methosulfate, methophosphate or phosphate ion and mixtures from these. Examples of cationic compounds of the formula (I) are didecyldimethylammonium chloride, ditallowdimethylammonium chloride or dihexadecylammonium chloride. Typical examples further include hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, or hydroxyethyl hydroxycetyl dimonium chloride.

Preference is given to ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Furthermore, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as dialkyl ammonium methosulfates and Methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfate and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series such as dicocoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methosulfate, can be used as cationic surfactants.

Compounds of formula (II) are so-called ester quats. Esterquats are characterized by excellent biodegradability. You can give the conditioner according to the invention a special soft touch. These are known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of organic chemistry. Here, R ^{4 is} an aliphatic alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds; R ⁵ is H, OH or 0 (CO) R ⁷ , R ⁶ is independently of R ^{5 is} H, OH or 0 (CO) R ⁸ , wherein R ⁷ and R ⁸ are each independently an aliphatic alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms having 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, m, n and p may each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 have. X can be either a halide, methosulfate, methophosphate or phosphate ion, as well as mixtures of these. Preference is given to compounds which contain the group 0 (CO) R ⁷ for R ⁵ and to alkyl radicals having 16 to 18 carbon atoms for R ⁴ and R ⁷ . Particularly preferred are compounds in which R ^{6 is} also OH. Examples of compounds of the formula (II) are methyl N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N-di (tallowacyl oxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate, bis (palmitoyl) ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate, N -Methyl N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (dioleoylethyl) ammonium methosulfate or methyl Ν, Ν-bis (acyloxyethyl) -N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate. If quaternized compounds of the formula (II) which have unsaturated alkyl chains are used, preference is given to the acyl groups whose corresponding fatty acids have an iodine number between 5 and 80, preferably between 10 and 60 and in particular between 15 and 45 and which have a cis / trans isomeric ratio (in% by weight) of greater than 30:70, preferably greater than 50:50 and especially greater than 70:30. Commercially available examples are methylhydroxyalkyl-dialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates or the products of Cognis known under Dehyquart ™.

Typical further examples of ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Preferably, technical C12 / 18 coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hydrogenated C16 / 18 tallow or palm oil fatty acids and elaidic acid rich C16 / 18 fatty acid cuts are used. To prepare the quaternized esters, the fatty acids and the triethanolamine in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 can be used. In view of the performance properties of the esterquats, a use ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 9: 1 has proved to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9, and are derived from technical C16 / 18 tallow or palm oil fatty acids.

In addition to the quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, esterquats also include quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines. Finally, the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines may be mentioned as a further group of suitable esterquats. Furthermore, other suitable esterquats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond, preferably based on diethylenetriamine. In addition to the compounds of the formulas (I) and (II) it is also possible to use short-chain, water-soluble, quaternary ammonium compounds, such as trihydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate or the alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.

Further preferred compounds are the diester quats of the formula (III) which, in addition to the softness, also ensure stability and color protection in the case of colored hairs. R ²¹ and R ²² are independent each represent an aliphatic radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds.

In addition to the quaternary compounds described above, it is also possible to use other known compounds, for example quaternary imidazolinium compounds of the formula (IV) where R ^{9 is} H or a saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ are each independently an aliphatic one Alternatively, R ^{10 may} also be O (CO) R ²⁰ , where R ^{20 is} an aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and Z is an NH group or oxygen means and X is an anion. q can take integer values between 1 and 4.

Other suitable quaternary compounds are described by formula (V) wherein R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ independently represent a C 1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group, R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶ each independently selected C 8-28 - represents alkyl group and r is a number between 0 and 5.

Also protonated alkylamine compounds, as well as the non-quaternized, protonated precursors of cationic emulsifiers are suitable.

Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates. Both fatty acids and the corresponding triglycerides can be used to prepare the esterquats. It is also possible to carry out the condensation of the alkanolamines with the fatty acids in the presence of defined amounts of dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid and / or dodecanedioic acid. In this way, there is a partial oligomeric structure of the esterquats, which may have an advantageous effect on the Klariöslichkeit of the products particularly when adipic acid. Typically, the esterquats in the form of 50 to 90 wt .-% iger alcoholic solutions in the trade, which can be easily diluted with water if necessary.

As component B, the conditioner according to the invention contains a microemulsion.

Microemulsions are understood to mean all macroscopically homogeneous, optically transparent, low-viscosity and in particular thermodynamically stable mixtures of two immiscible liquids and at least one nonionic or ionic surfactant. The average particle sizes of the microemulsions are usually below 100 nm, they have a high transparency and are stable on centrifugation at 2000 rpm for at least 30 minutes against a visible phase separation.

The preparation of the microemulsions is preferably carried out simply by mixing the oil phase with the other oil-soluble ingredients, heating the oil phase above the melting point of all components and subsequent addition of the aqueous surfactant-containing phase. The thermodynamically stable microemulsion then forms spontaneously, if necessary, a little more stirring is required.

The microemulsion B) containing in the conditioner according to the invention contains

b1) at least one alkyl glycoside and / or one alkyloligoglycoside,

b2) at least one cosurfactant,

b3) an organic oil phase,

b4) water. Preferably, the microemulsion contains B):

b1) 4-30% by weight of an alkyl glycoside and / or an alkyloligoglycoside,

b2) 1 to 12% by weight of cosurfactant,

b3) 5 to 30% by weight of an organic oil phase,

b4) add water 100 wt .-%. All wt .-% data b1) to b4) refer to the total amount of microemulsion.

Particularly preferably, the microemulsion B) consists of:

b1) 4-30% by weight of an alkyl glycoside and / or an alkyl oligoglycoside,

b2) 1 to 12% by weight of cosurfactant,

b3) 5 to 30% by weight of an organic oil phase,

b4) add water 100 wt .-%.

All wt .-% data b1) to b4) refer to the total amount of microemulsion. APG

The microemulsion contains as compulsory constituents at least one sugar surfactant, namely at least one alkyl glycoside and / or one alkyl oligoglycoside. For the purposes of the invention, the term alkyl (oligo) glycosides is used synonymously with alkyl (poly) glycosides and is also designated by the abbreviation "APG." Alkyl glycosides and / or an alkyl oligoglycoside include both alkyl and alkenyl (oligo) glycosides and are preferred the formula (VI)

R230- [G] _P (VI) in which R ^{23 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (VI) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound must always be an integer and here Above all, the values p = 1 to 6 can assume that the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. APGs are contained in the microemulsions according to the present invention in amounts between 4 and 30 wt .-%, each based on the total amount of the microemulsion. Amounts in the range of 10 to 25 wt .-% are particularly preferred. As cosurfactants for the purposes of the invention, esters of glycerol with fatty acids of chain length C12-C22 are preferably used in the microemulsion. Preferably, partial esters and in particular monoesters of glycerol are used, in particular monoesters of glycerol with unsaturated linear fatty acids being suitable. Particularly preferred according to the invention is glycerol monooleate. These glycerol esters are present in the microemulsions in amounts of from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10, in each case based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

Finally, the microemulsions still contain an organic oil phase. that is, a non-water-soluble organic phase, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight. Particularly preferred organic oil phases, except alkoxylated compounds, are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 20 C atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or Esters of branched C6-C13 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, triglycerides based on C6- Cio fatty acids, esters of C 2 -C 12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C 6 -C 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms n, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22-alcohols n linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, dialkylcyclohexanes.

However, solid fats and / or waxes can also be used as the oil phase. These may also be in mixture with the oils mentioned in the previous section. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Espartog raswachs, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), Petralatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. Tocopherols and essential oils are also suitable as an oil component. Hydrocarbons are organic compounds that consist only of carbon and hydrogen. They include both cyclic and acyclic (= aliphatic) compounds. They include both saturated and monounsaturated or polyunsaturated compounds. The hydrocarbons can be linear or branched. Depending on the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon, the hydrocarbons may be classified into odd-number hydrocarbons (such as nonane, undecane, tridecane) or even hydrocarbons (such as octane, dodecane, tetradecane). Depending on the type of branching you can divide the hydrocarbons into linear (= unbranched) or branched hydrocarbons. Saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons are also referred to as paraffins.

Particularly preferred oil phases can Esteröle such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, Ethylhexylstearate, di-n-octyl carbonates, Dicaprylylcarbonate, yristylmyristat, myristyl palmitate, yristylstearat, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, yristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, Oley- lisostearat, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glycol, dime rdiol or trimer triol and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ethers or mixtures thereof.

Another essential component of microemulsions is water. The water should preferably be demineralized. The microemulsions preferably contain up to 80% by weight of water. Preferred ranges for the proportion of water in the microemulsion are amounts of from 20 to 80% by weight and in particular from 30 to 65% by weight of water in the microemulsion. For the conditioner, a preferred water content of greater than 60 wt .-% based on the total amount of conditioner. This means that in the 60 wt .-%, the proportion of water from the containing microemulsion is included. Likewise, water is included in the other ingredients that are never free of water.

In addition to the ingredients described above, the conditioner contains as additional constituent C) or fatty alcohols of the general formula (VII) R24-OH (VII), wherein R ^{24 is} a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Preferred are technical fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol. Particularly preferred is the concomitant use of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohols are preferably used in amounts of 2 to 10 wt .-%, based on the conditioner, wherein the range of 1 to 8 wt .-% is particularly preferred. These fatty alcohols, which are water-insoluble organic constituents, according to the invention are not covered by the definition of the oil phase in the microemulsion.

In addition to the described cationic surfactants, the conditioner as component D may contain other surfactants. These other surfactants are selected from the group formed by anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates, mono and dialkyl succinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their derivatives Salts, fatty acid isothionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acylglutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulphates, alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl phosphates. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid poly glycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or optionally mixed partially oxidized alk (en) yloligoglycosides or Glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.

Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Alkyl sulfate is preferred, and more preferably a combination of alkyl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine, most preferably a combination of lauryl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine. The anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are preferably mixed in amounts of 0-5 wt .-% of the conditioner.

The cosurfactants according to the invention are in particular glycerin fatty acid esters and have already been described above for the microemulsion. However, as a further surfactant in the conditioner, the glycerol monostearyl esters are preferred. If the cosurfactants are used here, they are preferably present in the conditioner at 0-5% by weight.

The sum of the further surfactants of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and cosurfactants is thus preferably between 0 and 10 wt .-% calculated as the active substance, based on the total amount of conditioner.

The conditioner according to the invention may contain as component E) further cosmetic additives. Depending on the use of the conditioner according to the invention still further additives must be added, which are selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, salt, thickening agents, bodying agents, inorganic and organic UV photoprotective filters, self-tanner, pigments, antioxidants, hydrotopes , biogenic agents, dyes, preservatives preferably benzoic acid or citric acid, humectants such as glycerol, ethanol, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents and perfumes. In particular, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme Q10, ascorbic acid, retinol and retinyl derivatives, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, essential oils, hyaluronic acid, creatine, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts are mentioned as biogenic agents , Peptides and vitamin complexes are preferred. Examples

1. Table 1: Formulation examples for conditioners

Plantasil® Micro is a microemulsion and has the following composition:

Dehyquart® L80 has the following INCI name: Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Propylene Glycol 2. Manufacturing Specification:

All components except the microemulsion were melted and homogenized at about 60 ° C. Thereafter, the microemulsion was added and the product stirred until appearing homogeneous. While stirring, the product was allowed to cool. 3. Determination of combability

Conditioner conditioning tests were performed on 10 strands of hair in an automated wet combing system.

The pretreatment of hair strands (dark brown European hair) (12cm / 1g for wet combing and 15cm / 2g hair for dry combing) from IHIP was carried out in an automated hair treatment system:

^■ 30 min. Purification with 6% sodium lauryl ether sulfate, pH 6.5, then intensive rinsing of the hair. ■ 20 min bleaching with a solution of 5% hydrogen peroxide, pH 9.4 (with

Ammonium hydroxide solution adjusted), then intensive rinsing of the hair

^■ 30 min drying in a stream of air at 68 ° C

Immediately before the zero measurement, the hair was swollen for 30 minutes in water and then rinsed with an automatic Naßauskämmbparatur for 1 minute. In the automated system for determining the wet and dry combing work, the combing forces were determined during 20 combings and the combing work was calculated by integrating the measured force-displacement curves. After the zero measurement, the hair was immediately treated with the formulation (0.125 g / g hair). After 3 minutes of exposure time, was rinsed with the automatic Naßauskämmbparatur under standard conditions (38 ° C, 11 / minute).

The treatment and subsequent rinsing was repeated a second time. Then the comparative measurement (for the zero measurement) took place. The measurements were made with the fine crest side of the natural rubber combs. The residual combing work per tress was calculated as follows: Residual combing work = combing work after product treatment / combing work before product treatment

Subsequently, the mean and the standard deviation were determined by the quotients of all 10 strands. The values are given in Table 1.

Claims

claims

Containing a conditioner in the form of an optically non-transparent dispersion

A) at least one cationic surfactant,

B) containing a microemulsion

b1) at least one alkyl glycoside and / or one alkyl oligoglycoside,

b2) at least one cosurfactant which does not fall under the definition of b1),

b3) an organic oil phase, and

b4) water,

C) at least one fatty alcohol,

wherein the sum of all surfactants present in the conditioner make up at most 10% by weight of the conditioner.

The conditioner according to claim 1, wherein the sum of all surfactants present in the conditioner has a content of at most 8% by weight, in particular at most 6% by weight, of the

Make up conditioners.

The conditioner according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the conditioner contains less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, in particular 0% by weight, of alkoxylated compounds.

The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the conditioner preferably contains less than 2 wt .-%, in particular less than 1 wt .-%, in particular 0 wt .-% silicon compounds.

The conditioner of any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising:

A) 1-9.9% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant,

B) 0.1 - 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 - 10 wt .-%, containing a microemulsion

b1) 4-30% by weight of at least one alkyl glycoside and / or one alkyl oligoglycoside, b2) 1-12% by weight, in particular 4-10% by weight, of at least one cosurfactant, b3) 5-30% by weight an organic oil phase,

b4) water add 100 wt .-% based on the total amount of the microemulsion, C) 2 -10% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol,

D) 0 to 8.9% by weight of further surfactants,

E) 0 to 5% by weight of further cosmetic additives,

F) water add 100 wt .-% based on the total amount of the conditioner.

The conditioner of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium compounds, quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts, especially quaternized ones

Fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1, 2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines, tetraalkylammonium salts and quaternized protein hydrolysates.

7. The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein for b1):

b1) the at least one alkyl glycoside and / or alkyl oligoglycoside has the general formula (VI)

R23Q- [G] _p (VI), ²³ in which R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number 1 to 10

8. The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein for b2):

b2) the cosurfactants are glycerol fatty acid esters.

9. The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein for b3):

b3) the organic oil phase contains at least one compound selected from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol ether, a fatty acid ester of a long chain (i.e., comprising at least 6 C atoms) fatty alcohol and a dialkyl carbonate.

10. The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol has the general formula (VII) wherein R ^{24 is} a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

11. The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the further surfactants are selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants.

12. The conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the further cosmetic

Additives are selected from the group consisting of emulators, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, salts, thickeners, bodying agents, inorganic and organic UV photoprotective filters, self-tanning, pigments, antioxidants, hydrotopes or humectants such as glycerol, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, biogenic agents , Dyes, Preservatives and Perfumes.

The use of the conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for conditioning the hair, in particular for improving the combability of the hair.

The use of the conditioner of claim 13, wherein the conditioner is contacted with the hair after washing the hair.

A method of making the conditioner according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising melting the components except the microemulsion, optionally the

Homogenizing the melt obtained, wherein the melting and optionally homogenizing preferably at 50 to 70 ° C, in particular at 60 ° C, carried out, adding the microemulsion to the, optionally homogenized, melt and optionally homogenizing after addition of the

Microemulsion, preferably by stirring.