CN107427425A - For adjusting the composition of hair - Google Patents
For adjusting the composition of hair Download PDFInfo
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- CN107427425A CN107427425A CN201480084472.8A CN201480084472A CN107427425A CN 107427425 A CN107427425 A CN 107427425A CN 201480084472 A CN201480084472 A CN 201480084472A CN 107427425 A CN107427425 A CN 107427425A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
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Abstract
Composition includes fatty acid ester, at least one alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactant and at least one cellulose polysaccharide thickener of at least one certain cationic surfactant, at least one ether, at least one glycerine and/or polyglycereol.
Description
Invention field
The present invention relates to hair care beauty treatment fields, more particularly it relates to the stabilization with desirable transparent appearance
Conditioning compositions for hair.
Background of invention
It is applied to be sensitized hair to improve, that is, is particularly and passes through environmental factor and/or such as forever scald, dye or bleach
Hair treatment chemical action impaired or the hair to die down composition cosmetic properties, it is known that conditioning agent is introduced these
In composition.The main purpose of these conditioning agents is that correction or limitation are more or less repeated to be subjected to by various processing or hair fiber
The undesirable effect that is triggered of various types of adjuncts, and undoubtedly they can also improve the esthetics of natural hair
Shape.
Conditioning agent most-often used so far is cationic polymer, silicone and/or silicone derivative, and they assign and washed
The dry or wet hair crossed is the same as with disentanglement, softness and the light significantly increased compared with not containing obtained by their correspondent composition
Slip.
However, due to the difficulty that silicone is blended or is scattered in aqueous phase, these products do not have desirable outward appearance such as
The transparency.
Make efforts to produce with the desirable transparency, stablized with the time and well-tuned can be provided to hair
The hair product of effect.However, they are not entirely satisfactory.Therefore still suffer to showing improved stability and desirable
Outward appearance and without the needs of the new compositions to the ill-effect of accommodation property.
The present invention relates to meet this needs.
Invention summary
The purpose of the present invention is to obtain the composition particularly for adjusting keratin material, especially hair and/or scalp,
The composition is stable and with desirable outward appearance, preferably clear outward appearance.
The purpose of the present invention is realized by the composition in the form of the emulsion comprising aqueous phase and oil phase, and the combination
Thing include at least one conditioning agent, at least one certain cationic surfactant, at least one ether, at least one glycerine and/
Or fatty acid ester, at least one alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactant and at least one cellulose polysaccharide of polyglycereol
Thickener.
Preferably, the composition is without silicone.According to an embodiment, composition is transparent or semitransparent.
Another aspect of the present invention is the method for adjusting keratin material, especially hair and/or scalp, described
The step of method includes the composition of the present invention being applied to the keratin material
An additional aspect of the present invention be related to the present invention composition be used for adjust keratin material, especially hair and/
Or the purposes of scalp.
Preferably, hair and scalp are preferably according to " keratin material " of the present invention.
As it is used herein, term " no silicone " means that the composition of the present invention does not include silicone or comprising relative to total
Composition is not more than the silicone of the amount of 1 weight % silicone.Preferably, composition contains the gross weight relative to composition, no
More than 0.5 weight %, more preferably no more than 0.2 weight % silicone.
It is highly preferred that the composition of the present invention does not contain silicone.
The transparency can measure the transmissivity in visual field to measure (for example, the transparency utilizes by using absorption spectrometer
V-550 (JASCO) with 10mm width pond is measured as transmission of visible light (between 400nm and 800nm) average value.To not
Diluted composition measures.Blank distillation aquametry.
Using the visible ray with 700nm wavelength, preferably had according to the composition of the present invention more than 80%, be preferably big
In 85%, more preferably greater than 90% transmissivity.
According to the preferred embodiments of the invention, composition is in microemulsion or nanoemulsions form.
" microemulsion " can define in two ways, i.e., defined with more broadly and more narrow sense.In other words, a kind of situation be present
(" microemulsion in the narrow sense "), wherein microemulsion refer to thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid containing ternary system
Phase, the ternary system have at least one oily components, aqueous components and two kinds of surfactants, and another situation
(" sensu lato microemulsion "), wherein among the typical emulsion system of thermodynamic instability, microemulsion is comprised additionally in due to it
Smaller particle size and those such emulsion (Satoshi Tomomasa et al., Oil that transparent or semitransparent outward appearance is presented
Chemistry, volume 37, o. 11th (1988), the 48-53 pages)." microemulsion " used herein refers to " in the narrow sense
Microemulsion ", i.e. thermodynamically stable isotropism list liquid phase.
Microemulsion refers to that O/W (oil-in-water) the types microemulsion that wherein oil is dissolved by micelle, its reclaimed water are dissolved by reverse micelle
Any of W/O (Water-In-Oil) type microemulsion state, or wherein make the association number of surfactant molecule infinitely great so that
Obtaining aqueous phase and oil phase has the bicontinuous microemulsions of continuous structure.
" nanoemulsions " mean to be characterized by the emulsion of the dispersed phase less than 350nm sizes herein, the dispersed phase by
Optionally stablize in the hat of (b) nonionic surfactant of dispersed phase/continuous phase interface formation sheet type liquid crystalline phase.
When lacking specific opacifier, the transparency of nanoemulsions is caused by the small size of dispersed phase, and this small size is because using mechanical energy
Especially high-pressure homogenizer and obtain.
Nanoemulsions can be different from microemulsion in its structure.Specifically, microemulsion is formed from molten for example with (a) oil
The Thermodynamically stable dispersion of swollen (b) nonionic surfactant micelle.In addition, microemulsion does not need sizable mechanical energy
So as to be produced.
Can be in O/W nanoemulsions or microemulsion, W/O nanoemulsions or microemulsion or doubly-linked according to the composition of the present invention
The form of continuous emulsion.
According to the composition of the present invention preferably in the form of nano oil-in-water emulsion or microemulsion.
According to this embodiment, oil phase has 300nm or smaller, preferably 10nm extremely in the form of droplet or bead
180nm and more preferably 20nm to 150nm median particle Dv50 by volume.
Median particle Dv50 by volume is the parameter of size distribution, refers to 50% sample volume being present less than it
Maximum particle diameter (referring to A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization, page 10).
The average-size by volume of aqueous phase droplet using the classifiers of Malvern Nano ZS 90 (by
Malvern Instruments are sold) measure.These measurements are carried out to the composition (dilution) of the present invention.Computer journey
Sequence make it possible to obtain by volume median particle Dv50 (referring to Zetasizer Nano Series User Manual,
Malvern Instruments, MAN0317Issue in July, 2.1 2004).
The median particle Dv50 by volume of the aqueous phase droplet of the composition of the present invention is 300nm or smaller, preferably
10nm is to 180nm, and more preferably 20nm to 150nm.
Transparent or semitransparent outward appearance, preferably clear outward appearance can be had according to the composition of the present invention.
In this manual, term " at least " or " at least one (individual, kind ...) " are equal to that " one (individual, kind ...) is more
(individual, kind ...) ".
Other features and advantages of the present invention will significantly more show when reading following description and embodiment.
Detailed description of the invention
Cationic surfactant
The composition of the present invention includes at least one cationic surfactant.The cationic surfactant is selected from formula
(I) compound,
Wherein,
Can be identical or different R1To R4Represent the straight or branched aliphatic group or virtue for including 1 to 30 carbon atom
Race's group such as aryl or alkylaryl, and group R1To R4At least one of include 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
It is highly preferred that group R1To R4At least one of include 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
Aliphatic group can include hetero atom, such as specifically oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogen.
Aliphatic group is selected from C1-C30Alkyl, C1-C30Alkenyl, C1-C30Alkoxy, polyoxy (C2-C6) alkylidene, C1-
C30Alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamidoalkyl (C2-C6) alkyl, (C12-C22) alkyl acetates, C1-C30Hydroxyalkyl.
X-It is the anionic counterion selected from halogen ion.
Among formula (I) quaternary ammonium salt, quaternary alkylammonium halides such as tetra-alkyl ammonium chloride preferred first, such as tetraalkyl halogen
Change ammonium or alkylpolyoxyethylene, wherein such as dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, alkyl contain
About 12 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically halide such as Shan Yu base trimethyl ammonium chloride, VARISOFT TA100,
CTAB, benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium chloride, ethoxy oleyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or other, and
Palmitamide oxypropyl trimethyl ammonium halide, such as chloride or stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) chlorination
Ammonium.
It can be mentioned that product (the INCI names for example sold by Cognis with title Dehyquart A OR：Cetrimonium chloride), by
Product (the INCI names that company Chimex is sold with title Chimexane CL：Ethoxy oleyldimethylammonium chloride), by company
Rhodia is with titleProduct (the INCI names that 2232EF is sold：Shan Yu bases trimethyl ammonium chloride), or theirs is mixed
Compound.
More specifically, according to one embodiment of the invention, cationic surfactant is with relative to composition
Gross weight, 0.01 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % amount are present.
Available for the ether in the composition of the present invention
The composition of the present invention includes the ether of at least one formula (II),
R5-O-R6Formula (II)
In formula (II)：
Can be identical or different R5And R6Represent straight or branched C6-C25Alkyl or alkenyl.
Preferably, it can be identical or different base R that the ether of formula (II), which is selected from,5And R6Represent straight or branched C6-C12Alkyl or
The compound of alkenyl.
More specifically, according to the present invention, base R5And R6It is identical.
According to one embodiment of the invention, preferable dialkyl ether be selected from di-n-hexyl ether, two n-heptyl ethers,
Di-n-octylether, two n-nonyl ethers, two positive decyl ethers, diiso decyl ether, two dodecyl ethers, two n-tetradecane base ethers, two
N-hexadecyl ether, two n-octadecane base ethers or their mixture.
R5And R6It is preferred that represent C8Base.
These compounds can be prepared according to the method described in patent application DE 41 27 230.
Most preferably, the ether of formula (II) is di-n-octylether (INCI names：Dicaprylyl ether).Such product is commercially available,
Such as by company Cognis (BASF) with title Cetiol OE sell or by company Ecogreen Oleochemicals with
Those of Rofetan OE sales.
The ether of formula (II) is with relative to the weight of composition, preferably usual 0.01 weight % to 15 weight %, 0.1 weight %
Amount to 10 weight %, more preferably 0.5 weight % to 5 weight % is present in the composition according to the present invention.
The fatty acid ester of glycerine and/or polyglycereol
According to the present invention, composition includes the fatty acid ester of at least one glycerine and/or polyglycereol.
According to preferred embodiment, one or more fatty acid esters of polyglycereol be selected from by comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units,
It is preferred that the polyglycereol of 3 to 10 glycerol units and containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 18
Ester caused by the reaction of at least one aliphatic acid of individual carbon atom.Aliphatic acid containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms can be straight chain or branch
Chain and saturation or undersaturated.
Aliphatic acid may be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, laurate, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and
Octanoic acid or their mixture.
The fatty acid ester of polyglycereol may be selected from monoesters, diester, three esters and four esters, polyester and their mixture.It is preferred that
Use the ester with low esterification degree, such as the fatty-acid monoester of polyglycereol, diester or three esters or mixture.The fat of polyglycereol
Acid esters can be in the form of the mixture of the ester with low esterification degree, such as the mixture or monoesters of monoesters and diester, diester and three
The mixture of ester.
According to an embodiment, the fatty acid ester of polyglycereol be selected from by the polyglycereol comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units and
It is at least one to contain 8 to 20 carbon atoms, the aliphatic acid such as oleic acid of preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms or linoleic reaction production
Raw ester.
The distearate of polyglyceryl -2 can be especially referred to, particularly such as by NIHON EMULSION with title Emalex
What PGSA was sold；The stearate of polyglyceryl -10 ten, particularly such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-1810S
Sell；Olein, particularly as sold as COGNIS with title Monomuls 90-O 18；
Tristerin, particularly as sold as COGNIS with title Cutina GMS V；Polyglyceryl -5 six is hard
Resin acid ester, particularly as sold as TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft A-186E；The oleate of polyglyceryl -10 five,
Particularly as sold as TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-175S；The stearate of polyglyceryl -10 five, particularly
As sold as TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-185S；Caprylic/capric glyceride, particularly such as by STEPAN with
What title Stepan Mild GCC were sold；The oleate of polyglyceryl -10 seven, particularly such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title
What Sunsoft Q-177S were sold；The isostearate of polyglyceryl -4, particularly such as by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT with title
What Isolan GI 34 were sold；The dimer dilinoleic acid ester of two isostearoyl polyglyceryl -3, particularly such as by EVONIK
GOLDSCHMIDT is sold with title Isolan PDI；Glyceryl laurate ester, particularly such as by COGNIS with title
What Monomuls90-L 12 was sold；The trioleate of polyglyceryl -5, particularly such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft
What A-173E was sold；The oleate of polyglyceryl -2, particularly such as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-17B
's；The myristinate of polyglyceryl -5 three, particularly as sold as TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft A-143E；
The caprylate of polyglyceryl -2 can be especially referred to, particularly such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-
What 81B was sold；The laurate of polyglyceryl -2, particularly as sold as TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-12D.
According to a specific embodiment, it is suitable for including at least with the aliphatic acid of one or more esters of polyglycereol reaction
One hydroxyl.Castor oil acid is such situation.
Can especially refer to the ricinoleate ester of polyglyceryl -3 (and) sorbitan isostearate, particularly such as by
CRODA is sold with title Arlacel1690, the ricinoleate ester of polyglyceryl -3, particularly such as by AARHUSKARLSHAMN with
What title Akoline PGPR were sold.
According to another embodiment, it is comprising at least to be suitable for the aliphatic acid of one or more esters of polyglycereol reaction
The polyacid of one hydroxyl.Therefore, at least one polyglyceryl is included according to the variant of the present invention, hydrophobic surfactant
Polyricinoleate, it is the ester as caused by being esterified one or more polyglycereol with least one poly- castor oil acid.
Available for the present invention composition in one or more fatty acid esters be relative to composition gross weight, 0.01
Weight % to 5 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % are to 2 weight %.
One or more alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactants
Term " alkyl (poly-) glucosides " represents alkyl poly glucoside or alkyl monoglycosides, is also referred to as alkyl in the present patent application
Glucosides, its available one or more preferred C2-C4Alkylene oxide group alkoxylate.
One or more alkyl (poly-) the glucosides non-ionic surface active used according to the present invention individually or as mixture
Agent can be represented by lower formula (III)：
R7O-(R8O)t-(G)v (III)
Wherein：
R7Represent straight or branched, saturation or unsaturated alkyl containing about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or wherein straight chain or
Branched alkyl contains the alkyl phenyl of 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
R8The alkylidene containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms is represented,
G represents the sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms,
T represents 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4 value, and
V represents 1 to 15 value.
Preferably, one or more alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactants correspond to formula (III), wherein：
R7The straight or branched containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, saturation or unsaturated alkyl are represented,
G represents glucose, fructose or galactolipin, preferably glucose,
T represents 0 to 3 value, and preferably equal to 0,
And R8With v such as previous definition.
As for example by the poly- of one or more alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactants represented of index v in formula (IV)
Right average out to 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.This degree of polymerization more specifically average out to 1 to 2 and more preferably 1.1 to 1.5.
Glycosidic bond between sugar unit is 1,6- or Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-key；It is preferred that Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-key.
The compound for the formula (III) that can be used in the present invention especially with by company Cognis with title
(600CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or(818,1200 and the product 2000) sold represent.It is also possible to use
By company SEPPIC with title Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (orNS
10) product sold, the product sold by company BASF with title Lutensol GD 70, or by company Chem Y with title
Those of AG10LK sales.
Be also possible to for example using as aqueous solution with relative to the weight % of gross weight 53 of solution Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-(C8-C16) alkane
Base polyglucoside, by Cognis with reference name818UP is sold.
Among all these alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactant, preferably use by Cognis with reference namePlantacare 818 (the INCI that 2000UP is sold：Plantacare 818).
One or more nonionic surfactants are with relative to the gross weight of composition, preferably 0.01 weight % to 10 weights
%, particularly 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % and more preferably 0.5 weight % to 2 weight % amount is measured to exist.
Cellulose polysaccharide thickener
In the implication of the present invention, term " thickener ", which is understood to mean that, to make 25 DEG C and 1s because of its presence-1Shearing
Dielectric viscosity rise at least 50cPs compound under speed.Preferably, in water or 50/50 water/alcohol mixture by weight
In 1% thickener show 25 DEG C and 1s-1It is more than 100cPs viscosity under shear rate.
The specifically viscosimeter with cone plate geometry or rheometer can be used to measure for these viscosity.
Cellulose polysaccharide thickener is the polymer that cellulose is presented as to basic skeleton.
Cellulose is β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-polyacetals of cellobiose, the disaccharides that cellobiose is made up of two glucose molecules.
The nonionic fibre with or without hydrophobic chain is preferably available for the cellulose in the composition according to the present invention
Dimension element.
Preferably, cellulose used according to the invention is nonionic cellulose ether, preferably nonionic hydroxy alkyl cellulose,
Such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.Particularly suitable hydroxyethyl cellulose is by public affairs
Take charge of what Ashland was sold250MR, and most suitable hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose is by Dow Chemicals
Methocel F4M (the INCI names of offer：Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose).
Can it is used according to the invention by the group modified cellulose comprising one or more hydrophobic chains specifically
The hydroxyethyl cellulose of the hydroxy alkyl cellulose of hydrophobically modified, such as hydrophobically modified, preferably nonionic hydroxyethyl cellulose, by wrapping
Group containing at least one aliphatic chain such as alkyl, aralkyl or alkylaryl or their mixture modification, and wherein alkane
Base is preferably C8-C22Alkyl, the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 such as sold by Aqualon(C16Alkane
Base), corresponding to INCI name spermaceti ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, or the product Bermocoll EHM sold by Berol Nobel
- by group modified those of alkyl phenyl polyalkylene glycol ethers, the product such as sold by Amerchol
Amercell Polymer(nonyl phenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether), corresponding to INCI name nonyl phenol polyethers bases
Hydroxyethyl cellulose.
Concentration for the cellulose polysaccharide thickener in the composition according to the present invention is the gross weight relative to composition
Amount, 0.05 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % and more preferably 0.5 weight % to 3 weight %.
According to preferred embodiment, the present invention relates in microemulsion or nanoemulsions form, the group with aqueous phase and oil phase
Compound, it includes the gross weight composition by weight relative to composition：
A) the cationic surfactant of 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % at least one formula (I),
Wherein：
Identical or different R1To R4Represent the straight or branched aliphatic group for including 1 to 30 carbon atom, and group R1
To R4At least one of include 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and
X-For chlorion；
B) the ether of 0.5 weight % to 5 weight % at least one formula (II)
R5-O-R6Formula (II)
Wherein：
R5And R6It is mutually the same, and represent C6-C12Alkyl or alkenyl；
C) 0.01 weight % to 5 weight % olein；
D) alkyl (poly-) glucosides non-ionic surface active of 0.01 weight % to 10 weight % at least one formula (III)
Agent,
R7O-(R8O)t-(G)vFormula (III)
In formula (III)：
R7The straight or branched containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, saturation or unsaturated alkyl are represented,
G represents glucose,
T represents 0 to 3 value；And preferably equal to 0；And
E) 0.5 weight % to 3 weight % at least one hydroxyethyl cellulose.
Oil phase
Oil phase is included according to the composition of the present invention.
Preferably, oil phase of the invention is dispersed phase, more preferably in the form of oil droplet or bead.
The Dv50 of median particle by volume of more preferably oil droplet or bead is less than 300nm, preferably 10nm to 180nm, and
And more preferably 20nm to 150nm.
The oil phase of the present invention includes at least one oil.
Term " oil " means under room temperature (20-25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg) in any fat composition of liquid form
Matter.
Alkyl oil, silicone oil, fluorine can be included by being included in the oil for being suitable for preparing in the oil phase according to the composition of the present invention
Oily or non-fluorocarbon oil or their mixture.
According to preferred embodiment, composition of the invention includes alkyl oil.Oil can be volatilization or nonvolatile.
Term " expressed oi " means to be retained in keratin material under room temperature (20-25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg)
On oil.More specifically, expressed oi has less stringent than 0.01mg/cm2/ min evaporation rate.
In order to measure this evaporation rate, 15g oil to be tested or oil mixture are placed in diameter 7cm crystallising dish, will
The crystallising dish is placed in about 0.3m3Big room in balance on, the room is by temperature adjusting, in 25 DEG C of temperature, and by
Hygrometry regulates and controls, in 50% relative humidity.Liquid is set freely to evaporate without stirring it, while by fan (Papst-
Motoren, reference number 8550N, is rotated with 2700rpm) ventilation is provided, the fan is placed in mixed containing described oily or described oil
Upright position above the crystallising dish of compound, blade points to crystallising dish, remote from the bottom 20cm of crystallising dish.With the regular time
The quality of the remaining oil or oil mixture in interval measurement crystallising dish.Evaporation rate is with every square measure (cm2) and per when
Between the oily mg that evaporates of unit (minute) represent.
Term " volatile oil " means to connect once with keratin material under room temperature (20-25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg)
Touch, any non-aqueous media that can be evaporated in less than one hour.Volatile oil is cosmetics volatile oil, and it is liquid at room temperature
Body.More specifically, volatile oil has 0.01mg/cm2/ min and 200mg/cm2The evaporation speed of (including limiting value) between/min
Rate.
According to the present invention, when composition is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, the amount of oil phase is the gross weight based on composition
0.1 weight % to 15 weight %, preferably 0.5 weight % are to 5 weight %.
Aqueous phase
At least one aqueous phase is included according to the composition of the present invention.
Aqueous phase contains water and containing the miscible organic solvent of water (at 20-25 DEG C at room temperature).
The continuous phase of emulsion (oil-in-water emulsion) is preferably according to the aqueous phase of the present invention.
According to this embodiment, the amount of aqueous phase is the weight % of gross weight 85 based on composition in the present compositions
To 99.9 weight %, preferably 85 weight % to 99 weight %.
Run into addition, can natively be contained according to the composition of the present invention in the field of the composition for adjusting hair
All standard adjuvants, such as spices, preservative, sequestering agent, other thickeners, other conditioning agents, other regulation polymerization
Thing, hydrating agents, vitamin, sun-screening agent, suspending agent etc..
As other conditioning agents available for the present invention or other regulation polymer, can be mentioned that：
-Kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymer
The cationic cyclopolymerization thing can be to contain corresponding to the main composition portion of formula (IV) or the unit of (V) as chain
The homopolymer or copolymer divided：
In formula d and e be equal to 0 or 1, d+e and equal to 1；R32Represent hydrogen atom or methyl；R30And R31Independently of one another
Represent C1-C8Alkyl, wherein alkyl are C1-C5Hydroxyalkyl, wherein alkyl is C1-C4Amido alkyl；R30And R31Can also be with
The nitrogen-atoms that they are connected represents heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl together；R30And R31Preferred table independently of one another
Show C1-C4Alkyl；Y-It is organic or inorganic anion, such as bromide ion, chlorion, acetate, borate, citrate, winestone
Acid group, bisulfate ion, bisulfite, sulfate radical or phosphate radical.These polymer are specifically described in FR 2 080 759
In FR 2 190 406.
Among polymer defined above, can more specifically refer to by company Nalco with title "
Dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer that 100 " (INCI names polyquaterniums -6) are sold (and with low weight average molecular mass
Its homologue) and with titleThe copolymer of 550 diallyldimethylammonium chlorides sold and acrylamide；
- vegetable oil；Such as sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, babassu oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, candlenut tree
Oil, camellia oil, shepherd's purse blue oil (camelina oil), safflower oil, membranaceous beautyleaf leaf oil, rape seed oil, coconut oil, coriander oil, cucurbita pepo
Oil, wheat-germ oil, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL, linseed oil, macadimia nut oil, maize germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil,
Olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape-kernel oil, Ba Kasi fruits oily (pracaxi oil), attar of rose, castor-oil plant
Oil, rye-seed oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, fine jade precipice Malus spectabilis oil and sunflower oil.
Among vegetable oil, preferably using coconut oil.
When these other conditioning agents or other regulation polymer in the presence of, composition of the invention after administration have pair
The improved mediating effect+6 of hair.
It is highly preferred that in the presence of other conditioning agents or other regulation polymer, preferably when dimethyl diallyl chlorination
In the presence of ammonium homopolymer, coconut oil or their mixture, composition of the invention allows have improved hair mediating effect+6
Cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition has desirable transparent or semitransparent outward appearance.
According to an embodiment, if it exists, the composition of the present invention includes the gross weight relative to composition,
Less than or equal to 10 weight %, the gross weight preferably with respect to composition, other regulations of the total amount less than or equal to 5 weight %
Agent or other regulation polymer.It is highly preferred that if it exists, the composition of the present invention includes the gross weight relative to composition
Amount, 0.01 weight % to 1 weight % other conditioning agents or other regulation polymer.
The form of thickening liquid, frost or gel can be taken according to the composition of the present invention.Preferably according to the present invention's
Composition is in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsion, more specifically nano oil-in-water emulsion or microemulsion.
According to preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is the composition in microemulsion or nanoemulsions form,
It includes the gross weight relative to composition, by weight：
A) the cationic surfactant of 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % at least one formula (I),
Wherein：
Identical or different R1To R4Represent the straight or branched aliphatic group for including 1 to 30 carbon atom, and group R1
To R4At least one of include 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and
X-For chlorion；
B) the ether of 0.5 weight % to 5 weight % at least one formula (II)
R5-O-R6Formula (II)
Wherein
R5And R6It is mutually the same, and represent C6-C12Alkyl or alkenyl；
C) 0.01 weight % to 5 weight % olein；
D) alkyl (poly-) glucosides non-ionic surface active of 0.01 weight % to 10 weight % at least one formula (III)
Agent,
R7O-(R8O)t-(G)vFormula (III)
In formula (III)：
R7The straight or branched containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, saturation or unsaturated alkyl are represented,
G represents glucose,
T represents 0 to 3 value, and preferably equal to 0；And
E) 0.5 weight % to 3 weight % at least one hydroxyethyl cellulose.
Another aspect of the present invention is the method for adjusting keratin material, especially hair and/or scalp, described
The step of method includes above-mentioned composition being applied to the keratin material.
More specifically, aspect of the invention is the method for adjusting keratin material, especially hair and scalp, institute
State the step of method includes above-mentioned composition being applied to the keratin material and optionally massage keratin material.
More specifically, aspect of the invention is the method for adjusting keratin material, especially hair and scalp, institute
State the step of method includes above-mentioned composition being applied to the keratin material and optionally combing keratin material.
Optionally, the step of then carrying out washing lower composition described above from keratin material.
An additional aspect of the present invention is that the above-mentioned composition of the present invention is used to adjust keratin material, especially hair
And/or the purposes of scalp.
Provide the non-limiting example of the explanation present invention.
Embodiment
Five kinds of hair conditioners are prepared, two kinds according to the present invention (invention A and B) and three kinds comparative (comparing C, D, E)：
Compare C and do not contain hydroxyethylcellulose thickener；Compare D and do not contain Plantacare 818；And
Compare E and do not contain olein.
Invention A and B, compare C, D and E according to the conventional method for being used to prepare regulation composition preparation to prepare.
The invention A and B and V-550 (JASCO) for comparing C, D and E transparent sex aids and having 10mm width pond is measured as can
See light transmission (between 400nm and 800nm) average value.Undiluted composition is measured.Blank distillation aquametry.
Invention A and B, compare C, D and E granularity Dv50 methods according to this specification to determine.
Invention A and B, the stability test for comparing C, D and E are carried out 2 months at 45 DEG C and 4 DEG C.
It can be observed, compared to comparing C, D and E, invention A and B is with improved stability and with desirable transparent
Outward appearance.
On the other hand, it is unstable after 2 weeks at high temperature to compare C, and it is unstable and opaque to compare D and E.
Invention A and B is respectively provided with when being applied on hair to the extraordinary mediating effect+6 of hair.Advantageously, A is invented because of it
The presence of his conditioning agent or other regulation polymer and there is improved mediating effect+6.
Claims (20)
1. the composition in the form of the emulsion comprising aqueous phase and oil phase, the composition includes：
A) cationic surfactant of at least one formula (I),
Wherein：
Identical or different R1To R4Expression includes the straight or branched aliphatic group of 1 to 30 carbon atom, and aromatic group is such as fragrant
Base or alkylaryl,
The group R1To R4At least one of include 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
X-It is the anionic counterion selected from halogen ion；
B) ether of at least one formula (II)
R5-O-R6Formula (II)
Wherein
Identical or different R5And R6Represent straight or branched C6-C25Alkyl or alkenyl；
C) fatty acid ester of at least one glycerine and/or polyglycereol；
D) at least one alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactant, and
E) at least one cellulose polysaccharide thickener.
2. composition according to claim 1, it is without silicone.
3. composition according to claim 1 or 2, it is in microemulsion or nanoemulsions, more preferably includes composition weight
At least oil-in-water emulsion of 50 weight % water form.
4. composition according to any one of claim 1 to 3, wherein the emulsion is nanoemulsions or microemulsion.
5. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 4, it is transparent or semitransparent.
6. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein in the cation form of the formula (I)
In the activating agent of face, the group R1To R4At least one of include 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and X-For chlorion；It is preferred that institute
State cationic surfactant and be selected from behenyl base trimethyl ammonium chloride, VARISOFT TA100, cetyltrimethylammonium chlorine
Change ammonium, benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium chloride, ethoxy oleyldimethylammonium chloride or their mixture.
7. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the cationic surfactant is with relative
In the gross weight of the composition, 0.01 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % amount are present.
8. composition according to any one of claim 1 to 7, wherein the R of the formula (II)5And R6Represent identical
Or different straight or branched C6-C12Alkyl or alkenyl；Preferably, R5And R6It is mutually the same, and represent C6-C12Alkyl or alkene
Base.
9. the ether of the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein formula (II) is selected from di-n-hexyl
Ether, two n-heptyl ethers, di-n-octylether, two n-nonyl ethers, two positive decyl ethers, diiso decyl ether, two dodecyl ethers, two are just
Myristyl ether, two n-hexadecyl ethers, two n-octadecane base ethers or their mixture；It is preferred that the ether is di-n-octyl
Ether.
10. the ether of the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein formula (II) is with relative to institute
State the gross weight of composition, more preferably 0.01 weight % to 15 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, 0.5 weight %
Amount to 5 weight % is present.
11. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the fat of the glycerine and/or polyglycereol
Fat acid esters is selected from by the polyglycereol comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units and contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms
At least one aliphatic acid reaction caused by ester, or their mixture；It is preferred that the fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl -2
Distearate, the stearate of polyglyceryl -10 ten, olein, tristerin, the stearic acid of polyglyceryl -5 six
Ester, the oleate of polyglyceryl -10 five, the stearate of polyglyceryl -10 five, caprylic/capric glyceride, the oil of polyglyceryl -10 seven
Acid esters, the isostearate of polyglyceryl -4, the dimer dilinoleic acid ester of two isostearoyl polyglyceryl -3, glyceryl laurate ester,
The trioleate of polyglyceryl -5, the oleate of polyglyceryl -2, the myristinate of polyglyceryl -5 three, the caprylate of polyglyceryl -2,
The laurate of polyglyceryl -2 or their mixture；It is highly preferred that the fatty acid ester is olein.
12. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the fatty acid ester is with relative to described
The gross weight of composition, 0.01 weight % to 5 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 2 weight % are present in the composition
In.
13. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein the alkyl (poly-) glucoside nonionic
Surfactant is selected from the compound of formula (III),
R7O-(R8O)t-(G)vFormula (III)
In formula (III)：
R7Represent straight or branched, saturation or unsaturated alkyl containing about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or wherein described straight chain or
Branched alkyl contains the alkyl phenyl of 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
R8The alkylidene containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms is represented,
G represents the sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms,
T represents 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4 value, and
V represents 1 to 15 value,
Preferably,
R7The straight or branched containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, saturation or unsaturated alkyl are represented,
G represents glucose,
T represents 0 to 3 value, and preferably equal to 0,
It is highly preferred that alkyl (poly-) the glucoside nonionic surfactant is Plantacare 818.
14. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 13, wherein the alkyl (poly-) glucoside nonionic
Surfactant is with relative to the gross weight of the composition, particularly 0.01 weight % to 10 weight %, 0.1 weight %
Exist to 5 weight % and more preferably 0.5 weight % to 2 weight % amount.
15. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 14, wherein the cellulose polysaccharide thickener is selected from
Nonionic cellulose ether, it is preferably selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or theirs is mixed
Compound, even more preferably described cellulose polysaccharide thickener is hydroxyethyl cellulose.
16. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 15, wherein the cellulose polysaccharide thickener is with phase
For the gross weight of the composition, 0.05 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % and more
It is preferred that 0.5 weight % to 3 weight % is present.
17. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 16, its in the form of microemulsion or nanoemulsions,
Comprising the gross weight relative to the composition, by weight：
A) the cationic surfactant of 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % at least one formula (I),
Wherein：
Identical or different R1To R4Represent the straight or branched aliphatic group for including 1 to 30 carbon atom, and the group R1
To R4At least one of include 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and
X-For chlorion；
B) the ether of 0.5 weight % to 5 weight % at least one formula (II)
R5-O-R6Formula (II)
Wherein
R5And R6It is mutually the same, and represent C6-C12Alkyl or alkenyl；
C) 0.01 weight % to 5 weight % olein；
D) alkyl (poly-) glycoside nonionic surfactant of 0.01 weight % to 10 weight % at least one formula (III),
R7O-(R8O)t-(G)vFormula (III)
In formula (III)：
R7The straight or branched containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, saturation or unsaturated alkyl are represented,
G represents glucose,
T represents 0 to 3 value；And preferably equal to 0；And
E) 0.5 weight % to 3 weight % at least one hydroxyethyl cellulose.
18. the composition according to any one of claim 1 to 17, it includes the sun with the charge density higher than 4e/g
Ionomer is as conditioning agent.
19. a kind of method for adjusting keratin material, especially hair and/or scalp, methods described is included foregoing power
Profit requires the step of composition any one of 1 to 18 is applied to the keratin material and then rinsed with water.
20. composition any one of preceding claims 1 to 18 be used to adjusting keratin material, especially hair and/
Or the purposes of scalp.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2014/095132 WO2016101262A1 (en) | 2014-12-26 | 2014-12-26 | Composition for conditioning the hair |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN107427425A true CN107427425A (en) | 2017-12-01 |
Family
ID=56148990
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201480084472.8A Pending CN107427425A (en) | 2014-12-26 | 2014-12-26 | For adjusting the composition of hair |
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| WO (1) | WO2016101262A1 (en) |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2019014679A (en) * | 2017-07-07 | 2019-01-31 | ロレアル | Silicone-free composition for keratin fiber in form of ultra-fine o/w emulsion |
| JP2019064963A (en) * | 2017-10-02 | 2019-04-25 | ロレアル | Composition in form of o/w emulsion |
| WO2022067650A1 (en) * | 2020-09-30 | 2022-04-07 | L'oreal | Composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1277548A (en) * | 1997-09-12 | 2000-12-20 | 普罗克特和甘保尔公司 | Cleansing and conditioning article for skin or hair |
| CN103269674A (en) * | 2010-12-21 | 2013-08-28 | 欧莱雅 | Composition comprising a non-itrogenous zinc salt and a particular cationic surfactant |
| CN103826600A (en) * | 2011-04-01 | 2014-05-28 | 考格尼斯知识产权管理有限责任公司 | Hair care agent |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP2229932A1 (en) * | 2009-03-19 | 2010-09-22 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Anti-transpiration in the form of a microemulsion and double emulsion |
| DE102011015192A1 (en) * | 2011-03-25 | 2012-09-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Process for the preparation of a conditioning detergent |
-
2014
- 2014-12-26 CN CN201480084472.8A patent/CN107427425A/en active Pending
- 2014-12-26 WO PCT/CN2014/095132 patent/WO2016101262A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1277548A (en) * | 1997-09-12 | 2000-12-20 | 普罗克特和甘保尔公司 | Cleansing and conditioning article for skin or hair |
| CN103269674A (en) * | 2010-12-21 | 2013-08-28 | 欧莱雅 | Composition comprising a non-itrogenous zinc salt and a particular cationic surfactant |
| CN103826600A (en) * | 2011-04-01 | 2014-05-28 | 考格尼斯知识产权管理有限责任公司 | Hair care agent |
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Application publication date: 20171201 |