WO2022067650A1

WO2022067650A1 - Composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: WO2022067650A1
Application number: PCT/CN2020/119353
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ya HU; Qingsheng Tao
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2020-09-30
Filing date: 2020-09-30
Publication date: 2022-04-07
Also published as: FR3114498A1; WO2022068473A1; FR3114498B1; CN116322636A

Abstract

Provided is a transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprising: a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil; b) at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains; and c) dispersed aqueous phases comprising water and at least one hydrophilc active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres; wherein the weight ratio of water to the at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is from 0.01 to 1.5. Also provided is a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres comprising applying the transparent composition onto keratin fibres.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING AND/OR DYEING KERATIN FIBRES

TECHNIAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

BACKGROUND ART

The hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.

There are many products comprising lipophilic actives available for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair. For example, there are many hair oil products comprising lipophilic actives.

WO 2000074644A1 discloses a composition containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant; at least one nonionic surfactant presents in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; at least one suspending agent present in an amount effective for maintaining a stable composition; and a lipophilic ingredient.

EP0966955A1 discloses a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials, comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane and an acrylic terpolymer in an aqueous medium. The terpolymer comprises: (1) a carboxylic acid (A) with alpha, beta-monoethylenic unsaturation (20-70, preferably 25-55, wt. %) ; (2) a monomer (B) with non-surfactant monoethylenic unsaturation other than (A) (20-80, preferably 30-65, wt. %) ; and (3) a non-ionic urethane monomer (C) prepared by reacting monohydric non-ionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate with monoethylenic unsaturation (0.5-60, preferably 10-50, wt. %) .

In order to meet the needs of various consumers, cosmetic companies are keen to diversify the product categories of hair oil products.

During the development of hair oil products, there is a challenge to include hydrophilic actives for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair.

Furthermore, it is highly desirable to provide the hair conditioning and/or dyeing benefit using some products with pleasant appearance, for example, some product with transparent appearance.

It is also desirable that the products for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair are stable over time.

Therefore, there is still a need to develop compositions for conditioning and/or dyeing the keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair and which has a transparent appearance and is stable over time.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop compositions for conditioning and/or dyeing the keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair and which has a transparent appearance and is stable over time.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprising:

a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil;

b) at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains; and

c) dispersed aqueous phases comprising water and at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres,

wherein the weight ratio of water to the at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is from 0.01 to 1.5.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprising applying the composition as described above onto the keratin fibres.

The inventors have found that there are reverse micelles formed in the composition according to the present invention so that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time, and the composition is effective in conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .

As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.

As used therein, the term “keratin fibers” includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as the hair.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

According to the first aspect of the present invention, a transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprising:

a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil;

b) at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains; and

c) dispersed aqueous phases comprising water and at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres;

Oily phase

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

As the oil (s) , those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be oils of plant or animal origin and synthetic oils.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄-C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁-C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C ₄-C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name

DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) .

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) , Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of between 60℃ and 260℃, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile

7207 by Union Carbide or

70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile

7158 by Union Carbide,

70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone

FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, 1’-bis (2, 2, 2’, 2’, 3, 3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ²/s at 25℃. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd&Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25℃ according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- the

oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the

oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the

series sold by the company Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm ²/s;

- the

oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA) , such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- the

oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- the oils of the

70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils

L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₆-C ₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as

and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms such as isododecane, triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethicones, dimethiconols, and mixtures thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from isododecane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicones, dimethiconols, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the oil is present in amount ranging from 80 wt. %to 98.5 wt. %, preferably from 85 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, more preferably from 88 wt. %to 95 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains.

The surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains can be selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants, comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains.

As anionic surfactants comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains, mention can be made of, dialkyl sulfosuccinates with each alkyl containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms (such as, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, 1, 3-dioctyl glyceryl ether hydroxylpropyl sulfonates, 1, 3-didecyl glyceryl ether hydroxylpropyl sulfonates, 1, 3-didodecyl glyceryl ether hydroxylpropyl sulfonates, sodium distearyl phosphate, sodium dioleyl phosphate, sodium dielaidyl phosphate, 1, 2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphate (sodium salt) , sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, ethylene bis (sodium N-dodecanoyl-asparatate, etc.

As cationic surfactants comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains, mention can be made of dialkyldimonium halides with each alkyl containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms (such as, dimethyldidodecylammonium bromide, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, dioleyldimethylammonium chloride, dibehenyldimethylammonium chloride) , 1, 2-dioleoyl-3-trimethylammonium-propane (chloride salt) , trialkyldimonium chlorides with each alkyl containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms (such as, tricetylmonium chloride, tristearylmonium chlorides) , and mixtures thereof.

As anionic surfactants comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains, mention can be made of esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) esters of a C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; and a mixture thereof.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and a mixture thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-12 distearate, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, ethylene glycol dioleate, PEG-3 dioleate, PEG-4 dioleate, etc.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl di-and/or tristearate) such as glyceryl 1, 3-distearate, glycerol dioleate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl 1, 3-dipalmitate and a mixture thereof can in particular be cited.

As optionally alkoxylated glyceryl esters of C6-C22 fatty acids, polyglyceryl stearate (glyceryl di-and/or tristearate) such as polyglyceroyl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceroyl-2 dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, can for example be cited.

The sorbitol esters of C6-C22 fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids such as span 65, span 85 and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Croda.

As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, in particular glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters and more specifically the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (methyl glucose dioleate) , the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate) , the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucose isostearate) , the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (Methyl glucose laurate) , the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate) , the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by Lubrizol, and a mixture thereof can be cited.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name GLUCAM E-20 DISTEARATE by Lubrizol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name GLUCAMATE SSE-20 by Lubrizol, and a mixture thereof, can for example be cited.

As sucrose esters, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose trioleate, sucrose tristearate can be cited.

Preferably, the surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates, dialkyldimonium chlorides, trialkylmonium chlorides, esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mixtures thereof, with each alkyl containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is selected from diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, methyl glucose dioleate, mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is present in amount ranging from 0.1wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 7 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Co-surfactants

In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention further comprises a co-surfactant selected from fatty alcohol containing one alkyl chain, fatty amines, fatty amides, fatty ethers, and fatty esters, so as to improve the swelling ability of the reverse micelles.

The fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have from 6 to 60 carbon atoms, such as from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohols of the present disclosure are chosen from solid and liquid fatty alcohols.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols can be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They can be acyclic.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit in their structure at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They can be acyclic. Among the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol may be mentioned.

Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono) alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure of formula: R-OH in which R especially denotes a C ₆-C ₆₀, for example, C ₈-C ₆₀, preferably C ₁₀-C ₅₀ or even C ₁₂-C ₃₀ alkyl group, R possibly being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, R possibly being branched. The solid fatty alcohols of the invention may be non-oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols may be constituents of animal or plant waxes.

The solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product. One example of such a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name of LANETTE-O from the company BASF. Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the tradename of LANETTE 16 from the company BASF.

In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty alcohol selected from butanol, amyl alcohol, hexanol, octanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises cetearyl alcohol.

As a commercial product of cetearyl alcohol, mention can be made of that sold under the tradename LANETTE O OR by BASF.

As examples of suitable fatty amines, mention can be made of oleylamine, stearylamine, lauryl dimethyl amine oxide.

As examples of suitable fatty amides, mention can be made of oleamide, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide.

As examples of suitable fatty ethers, mention can be made of lauryl ether, stearyl ether, ethoxylated stearyl ether.

Ifpresents, the co-surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises dispersed aqueous phases.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂-C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The aqueous phase also comprises at least one hydrophilic active ingredient as mentioned below.

The aqueous phase may represent from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic active ingredients

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the dispersed aqueous phases comprise at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

As hydrophilic active ingredients, mention can be made of water-soluble dyes and other hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the capacity of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25℃, to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution) . This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700) , DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850) , DC Red 22 (CI: 45380) , DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt) , DC Red 30 (CI: 73360) , DC Red 33 (CI: 17200) , DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510) , FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140) , FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985) , DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt) , FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053) , DC Green 5 (CI: 61570) , FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090) , Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Red 76, and combinations thereof.

As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble colorant (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble colorants that are suitable for use in the present invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

As other hydrophilic active ingredients, mention can be made of adipic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, nicotinamide, histidine, tyrosine, lysine, arginine, creatine, taurine, carnitine, osmolytes such as trimethylamine n-oxide, betaine, sucrose, hydrolyzed protein, hyaluronic acid.

Advantageously, the hydrophilic active ingredient is present in amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.002 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.003 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in compositions for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, such as fragrances, preservatives; and so on.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a copolymer containing a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment, also called as “silicone copolymer” in the present application, so as to improve the manageability (in terms of alignment, curl retention and regularity) of the hair.

The silicone copolymer is derived from the reaction between a silicone resin and a fluid silicone. These copolymers are described in patent applications WO 03/026 596, WO 2004/073 626, WO 2007/051 505 and WO 2007/051 506 for various cosmetic applications on hair and nails and for pharmaceutical applications on the skin.

The silicone resin segment of the copolymer is a MQ type silicone resin. Examples of such MQ type silicone resins, include, but are not limited to: (i) the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [ (R1) ₃SiO _1/2] _x (SiO _4/2) _y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group; and (ii) phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, the alkyl of the phenylalkyl is as defined above, such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate.

Examples of such MQ type silicone resins also include, but are not limited to, trimethyl siloxysilicate type, such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749 or DC 593 by the company Dow Corning.

Examples of such MQ type silicone resins further include, but are not limited to, MQ siloxysilicate units, such as phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins like phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company General Electric) .

The fluid silicone segment of the copolymer bears an OH end function group. Preferably, the fluid silicone segment is a diorganopolysiloxane bearing OH end functions, having a viscosity of between 100 and 100,000 cSt at 25℃ (determined with Brookfield viscometer using ASTMD-445 method) , for which the substituent (s) of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals. The diorganopolysiloxanes are preferably linear polymers. Examples of diorganopolysiloxanes may be, in a non-limiting manner, a polydimethylsiloxane, an ethylmethyl polysiloxane, a copolymer of dimethylsiloxane and of methylvinylsiloxane, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers containing OH end groups. The preferred diorganopolysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane.

For example, the copolymers may be prepared by heating the following mixture of:

- from 45%to 75%by mass of silicone resin, being the product of condensation of SiO ₂ and R ₃ (SiO) _1/2 units for which each group R is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals and for which the ratio between the SiO ₂ functions and the R ₃ (SiO) _1/2 functions of the silicone resin ranges from 0.6 to 0.9;

- from 25%to 55%by mass of fluid diorganopolysiloxane containing OH end functions, with a viscosity of between 100 and 100,000 cSt at 25℃ (determined with Brookfield viscometer using ASTMD-445 method) , for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals; and

- from 0.001%to 5%of a suitable catalyst, which is preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound preferably chosen from primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, carboxylic acid salts of the amines mentioned above and quaternary ammonium salts.

The mixture is heated to a temperature of between 80℃ and 160℃ until the adhesive nature of the resulting silicone copolymer is obtained.

In the copolymer, the silicone resin is present in a content of between 45%and 75% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present in a content of between 25%and 55%, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and of fluid silicone being equal to 100. Preferably, the silicone resin is present in a content of between 55%and 65% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present in a content of between 35%and 45%, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and of fluid silicone being equal to 100.

The copolymers that are preferred are sold by Dow Corning under the reference

and DOWSIL ^TM. Mention may be made especially of the grades 7-4400, 7-4405, 7-4500 and 7-4600 for

and FC-5001 CM Resin Gum, FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum and FC-5004 DM Resin Gum for DOWSIL ^TM.

Advantageously, if presents, the copolymer containing a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 88 wt. %to 95 wt%of at least one oil selected from isododecane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicones, dimethiconols, and a mixture thereof, mixtures thereof;

b) from 0.5 wt. %to 7 wt%of at least one surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates, dialkyldimonium chlorides, trialkylmonium chlorides, esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mixtures thereof, with each alkyl containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; and

c) from 0.003 wt. %to 3 wt%of at least one hydrophilc active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres;

wherein the weight ratio of water to the at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is from 0.1 to 1.5.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The term “clear” is interchangeable with the term “transparent” for purposes of the instant disclosure.

There are reverse micelles formed in the composition according to the present invention.

The presence of reverse micelles can be confirmed by solubilization of a water-soluble dye.

The composition according to the present invention can be a conditioner, a leave-on product, for example, a leave-on oil.

The use of the composition can be done on wet or dry hair.

According to the second aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres comprising applying the composition as described above onto the keratin materials.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1

Leave-on oils according to invention formulas (IE. ) 1-3 and comparative formula (CE. ) 1 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 2

The weight ratio of water to Dicetyldimonium chloride of Leave-on oils according to comparative formula (CE. ) 1 is 2, which is out of 0.01 to 1.5.

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

1) . Mix dimethicones, dimethiconol, triglyceride, if present, and isododecane to get a hair oil base;

2) . Add dicetyldimonium chloride, if presents, into the oily phase;

3) . Dissolve arginine in water to obtain a solution and then mix the solution with the oily phase or add dyes into the oily phase directly.

Evaluation:

The stability of the leave-on oils obtained was evaluated by maintaining the leave-on oils at 4℃, room temperature (20℃) , or 45℃ for 2 months and observing with naked eyes to check whether the leave-on oils were transparent. It will be evaluated as stable if the leave-on oil tested is transparent under all of 4℃, room temperature (20℃) , and 45℃ for 2 months, otherwise, it will be evaluated as unstable.

The appearance of the leave-on oils obtained was observed with naked eyes.

The transmittance was measured with a Thermo Scientific Evolution 220 UV-Visible Spectrophotometer.

The presence of reverse micelles was confirmed by solubilization of a water-soluble dye.

The results were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

Invention Examples 4-5

Leave-on oils according to invention formulas (IE. ) 4-5 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 4 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 4

Components	IE. 4	IE. 5
Dimethicone 1	13.33	13.33
Dimethicone 2	4	4
Dimethiconol	40	40
Caprylic/capric triglyceride	20	20
Isododecane	QS100	QS100
Dicetyldimonium chloride	2.1	0.7
Cetearyl alcohol	1	0.5
Deionized Water	0.9	0.4
Arginine	0.1	0.1

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

1) . Mix dimethicones, dimethiconol, triglyceride and isododecane to get a hair oil base;

2) . Add dicetyldimonium chloride and cetearyl alcohol, if presents, into the oily phase;

3) . Dissolve arginine in water to obtain a solution and then mix the solution with the oily phase.

Evaluation:

The stability and appearance of the leave-on oils obtained and the presence of reverse micelles were evaluated as described above. The transmittance was measured with a Thermo Scientific Evolution 220 UV-Visible Spectrophotometer.

The results were summarized in Table 5.

Table 5

Invention Examples 6-8 and Comparative Examples 2-4

Leave-on oils according to invention formulas (IE. ) 6-8 and comparative formulas (CE. ) 2-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 6 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 6

Leave-on oils according to comparative formulas (CE. ) 2-4 do not comprise any surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains and water.

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

2) . Add dicetyldimonium chloride, if presents, into the oily phase;

3) . Dissolve dyes in water to obtain a solution and then mix the solution with the oily phase or add dyes into the oily phase directly.

Evaluation:

The stability and appearance of the leave-on oils obtained and the presence of reverse micelles were evaluated as described above.

The results were summarized in Table 7.

Table 7

Invention Examples 9-11 and Comparative Examples 5-7

Leave-on oils according to invention formulas (IE. ) 9-11 and comparative formulas (CE. ) 5-7 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 8 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 8

Leave-on oils according to comparative formulas (CE. ) 5-7 do not comprise any surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains and water.

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

2) . Add dicetyldimonium chloride, if presents, into the oily phase;

Evaluation:

The results were summarized in Table 9.

Table 9

Invention Examples 12-14 and Comparative Examples 8-10

Leave-on oils according to invention formulas (IE. ) 12-14 and comparative formulas (CE. ) 8-10 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 10 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 10

Leave-on oils according to comparative formulas (CE. ) 8-10 do not comprise any surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains and water.

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

2) . Add dicetyldimonium chloride, if presents, into the oily phase;

Evaluation:

The results were summarized in Table 11.

Table 11

*NA: not tested.

Invention Examples 15-16

Leave-on oils according to invention formulas (IE. ) 15-16 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 12 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 12

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

2) . Add methyl glucose dioleate, and diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, if presents, into the oily phase;

Evaluation:

The results were summarized in Table 13.

Table 13

Properties	IE. 15	IE. 16
Stability	Stable	Stable
Appearance	Homogenous, transparent	Homogenous, transparent
Transmittance	90-100	90-100
Reverse micelles	Yes	Yes

Invention Example 17

Leave-on oil according to invention formulas (IE. ) 17 was prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 14 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of the leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 14

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared as follows:

1) . Use isododecane as a hair oil base;

2) . Incorporate the silicone copolymer into the hair oil base to obtain an oily phase;

3) . Add dicetyldimonium chloride into the oily phase;

4) . Dissolve dyes in water to obtain a solution and then mix the solution with the oily phase.

Evaluation:

The leave-on oil prepared in Example 17 was applied to one curly hair swatch from a same batch, and the hair swatch was observed immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24h) .

The manageability (in terms of alignment, curl retention and regularity) of the treated hair swatch was scored immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24h) .

The manageability was scored by 6 consumer based on the following standard and averaged:

5: very good;

4: basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and not acceptable;

1: poor, not acceptable.

The results were summarized in Table 15.

Table 15

Claims

A transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprising:

a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil;

b) at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains; and

c) dispersed aqueous phases comprising water and at least one hydrophilc active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres;

wherein the weight ratio of water to the at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is from 0.01 to 1.5.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, triglycerides, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is present in amount ranging from 80 wt. %to 98.5 wt. %, preferably from 85 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, more preferably from 88 wt. %to 95 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates, dialkyldimonium chlorides, trialkylmonium chlorides, esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mixtures thereof, with each alkyl containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
Composition according to claim 4, wherein the surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is selected from diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, methyl glucose dioleate, mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the the surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 alkyl chains is present in amount ranging from 0.1wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 7 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-6, further comprising at least one co-surfactant selected from butanol, amyl alcohol, hexanol, octanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to claim 7, wherein the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-8, further comprising a copolymer containing a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment.
Composition according to claim 9, wherein the silicone resin is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient comprises a hydrophilic dye.
Composition according to claim 11, wherein the hydrophilic dye is selected from Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Red 76, and combinations thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient is present in amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.002 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.003 wt. %to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-13, which is a leave-on product.
A cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 onto said keratin fibres.