JP2023090305A - Composition comprising oil, water-soluble alcohol and ingredient derived from nymphaeaceous plants - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a composition comprising an oil and a water-soluble alcohol, which can provide an improved sensation to keratinous substances, such as skin, scalp and hair, and can provide care effects to keratinous fibers, such as hair.SOLUTION: The present invention relates to a composition comprising (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil, and (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants which is different from the (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions. In addition, the present invention relates to uses of the composition and cosmetic methods using the composition.

In the field of cosmetics, users are increasingly demanding cosmetic compositions that make it possible to obtain a care effect. In order to obtain a care effect, the composition generally contains an active agent. In cosmetic compositions containing cosmetic actives for keratinous substances, oils can be used as a vehicle in the formulation in order to achieve good penetration properties of the actives into the keratinous substances.

For example, Japanese National Publication of International Patent Application No. 2020-514263 describes at least one polar oil of 30% to 89% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, and at least 10% to 45% by mass of at least Cosmetic composition comprising one C2 _{- C6} aliphatic monohydric alcohol and at least one polyol in an amount of 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one hydrophilic active agent A composition is disclosed, wherein said composition comprises less than 7% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

However, there is a problem with cosmetic compositions containing oil and water-soluble alcohol that such compositions can produce a sticky feel upon application. Therefore, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions comprising oils and water-soluble alcohols that reduce greasy feelings and provide additional care benefits.

Special table 2020-514263 WO02/051828 FR2607498 US6159479 US5558871 FR2581542 US4767750 EP378936 US5267407 US5667789 US5580549 EP A-570230

C. M. Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967) Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics ASTM Standard 445 Annex C

It is an object of the present invention to provide oils and water-soluble alcohols capable of providing enhanced sensations to keratinous substances, such as skin, scalp and hair, and caring effects to keratinous fibers, such as hair. It is to provide a composition comprising

The above objects of the present invention are
(a) at least one hydrophilic active agent;
(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol;
(c) at least one oil; and
(d)(a) can be achieved by a composition comprising at least one component derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceous family, different from the at least one hydrophilic active agent.

(d) The at least one ingredient derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant may be an extract of a Nymphaeaceae plant.

(d) The at least one component derived from a Nymphaea plant may be a root extract.

(d) In at least one component derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant, the Nymphaeaceae plant is a Nymphaea plant, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (Fruit). Grant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy), Nymphaea Mexicana (yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (India Red Water Lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian White Water Lily), Tropical Water Lily, Nymphaea tetragona (Pygmy Water Lily) and Garden Water Lily (Nymphaea cv.) (Pygmy Water Lily); Victoria plants such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (Santa Cruz water lily); Euryale plants such as Euryale ferox (Prickly water lily); ) plants such as Nuphar pumilum var. ozeense, Nuphar japonicum, Nuphar subintegerrimum, Nuphar japonicum f. rubrotinctum and Nuphar lutea ssp. and mixtures thereof.

(d) at least one component derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant is present in the composition in an amount of 0.0005% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.001% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.001% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition; may be present in an amount in the range from 0.0025% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, especially from 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, preferentially from 0.005% to 0.05% by weight. .

(b) the at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one diol and at least one triol in combination.

(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol is present in the composition in an amount of 40% to 95% by weight, preferably 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; It may be present in an amount in the range of ˜85% by weight, more preferably 70% to 80% by weight.

(c) at least one oil may be selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols and combinations thereof;

(c) the amount of at least one oil is from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 20%, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; Even more preferably, it can be in the range of 4% to 10% by mass.

(a) the at least one hydrophilic active agent is a moisturizing agent, a bleaching agent, an exfoliating agent, an anti-aging agent, a matting agent, a cicatrizing agent, an antibacterial agent, a blood circulation promoting ingredient, and these It can be selected from mixtures.

(a) the amount of at least one hydrophilic active agent is from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; % by weight, more preferably in the range of 2% to 10% by weight or more, especially 3% to 10% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of homogeneous solutions.

(b) the at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one diol, the amount of the at least one diol being from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably It can range from 2% to 20%, more preferably from 3% to 15%, even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous substances. Regarding.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a method of determining a bend angle;

As a result of extensive studies, the present inventors have surprisingly found that the use of at least one component derived from Nymphaeaceous plants includes at least one hydrophilic active agent, at least one water-soluble alcohol and at least one water-soluble alcohol. can provide a less sticky feel on application and additional care benefits, such as hair strength, smoothness and hair volumizing effects, and thus the present invention. completed.

Accordingly, the present invention provides
(a) at least one hydrophilic active agent;
(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol;
(c) at least one oil; and
(d)(a) Compositions and uses thereof comprising at least one component derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family, different from the at least one hydrophilic active agent.

In the following, the composition and cosmetic method according to the invention are described in more detail.

[Composition]
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil and (d) at least one water lily derived plant. Contains seed components. The ingredients in the composition are described in detail below.

(hydrophilic active agent)
The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent. Two or more hydrophilic active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic active agent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic active agents can be used.

The term "hydrophilic active agent" as used herein means a skin agent that is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa). and/or is intended to mean an active agent for the scalp.

Preferably, said hydrophilic active agent is selected from moisturizing agents, bleaching agents, exfoliating agents, anti-aging agents, matting agents, scarring agents, antimicrobial agents, blood circulation promoting ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, said hydrophilic active agent is selected from C-glycosides, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

In a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the following general formula (I)

(In the formula,
- R represents an unsubstituted linear _C1 - _C4 , especially _C1 - _C2 alkyl group, especially methyl,
- S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH( _NH2 )-, preferentially a -CH(OH)- group)
C-glycosides of
and also at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates thereof, and optical isomers thereof.

As non-limiting examples of C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I) which are particularly suitable according to the invention, inter alia the following compounds:
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane,
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane,
- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one,
- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one,
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane,
- and also cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates thereof, and optical isomers thereof,
can be mentioned.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, even better C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- Hydroxypropane is used.

According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the invention advantageously have the INCI name Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, especially MEXORYL SBB® or It can be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, sold under the name MEXORYL SCN®. Salts of C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the present invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, eg salts formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples that may be mentioned include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups, may also be mentioned. These can be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Among others, propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid may be mentioned.

Permissible solvates of the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the final steps in the preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates resulting from the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

C-glycosides (I) are also known from document WO02/051828.

In another detailed embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, in particular formula (II) below:

(In the formula,
・The Ra group is
- straight, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms,
- unsaturated chains containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms and containing one or more double bonds, which may be conjugated;
- indicates an aromatic nucleus attached to the carbonyl group either directly or by a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms,
The group is
(a) a halogen atom,
(b) a trifluoromethyl group,
(c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in esterified form with acids containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or
(d) be substituted by one or more identical or different substituents selected from carboxyl functional groups in free form or in forms esterified by lower alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; is possible and
・Rb is a hydroxyl group)
and may also include salts thereof derived from inorganic or organic bases.

According to one embodiment, the Ra group is
- straight, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chains containing 3 to 11 carbon atoms, or
- exhibiting unsaturated chains containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and containing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds,
The hydrocarbon-based chain is
(a) a halogen atom,
(b) a trifluoromethyl group,
(c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in esterified form with acids containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or
(d) substituted by one or more identical or different substituents selected from carboxyl functional groups in free form or in forms esterified by lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
and also salts thereof obtained by salification with inorganic or organic bases. More particularly preferred compounds are those in which the Ra group is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II), 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and corresponding These salts can be mentioned.

The salicylic acid compound is advantageously selected from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. More particularly 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid will be used. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) is provided by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SAB®.

Examples of inorganic bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia. Amines and alkanolamines are among the organic bases that may be mentioned. Quaternary salts, such as those described in patent FR2607498, are particularly advantageous. Compounds of formula (II) that can be used according to the invention are described in patents US6159479, US5558871, FR2581542, FR2607498, US4767750, EP378936, US5267407, US5667789, US5580549 and EP A-570230.

Other hydrophilic active agents include blood circulation-enhancing ingredients such as Dl-α-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosylhesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, γ-oryzanol, capsaicin and benzyl nicotinate ester. .

Other hydrophilic active agents include amino acids and their derivatives such as betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, beta-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid. , cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid and tryptophan, etc. can be done.

Other hydrophilic active agents include water-soluble polysaccharides such as gums, e.g. gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince seed, gum arabic, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum. , galactan, gum arabic, gum acacia, gum tragacanth, curdran, succinoglucan, etc.; carrageenan; heparin-like substances; and alginic acid.

The hydrophilic active agent is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be present in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 3% by weight.

The hydrophilic active agent is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, even more preferably 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be present in amounts greater than or equal to

The hydrophilic active agent is present in the composition according to the invention from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. , even more preferably in an amount in the range from 2% to 10% or more, especially from 3% to 10% by weight.

(water-soluble alcohol)
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol. Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of water soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water soluble alcohols can be used.

The term "water-soluble alcohol" used herein means that 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more can be dissolved in 100 mL of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa). means alcohol that can be

The water-soluble alcohols of the present invention may be selected from monohydric alcohols and polyols. In some embodiments of the invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monohydric alcohol in combination with at least one polyol.

Monohydric Alcohols Monohydric alcohols have 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and are linear or branched and carry only one hydroxyl (OH) functionality. and can be a saturated or unsaturated monohydric alcohol.

In one embodiment, the monohydric alcohol may be an aliphatic monohydric alcohol having 1-8 carbon atoms, preferably 2-8 carbon atoms.

The term "aliphatic monohydric alcohol" means here any linear or branched saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) functionality.

Aliphatic monohydric alcohols present in the compositions of the invention may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monohydric alcohol is a linear aliphatic monohydric alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

Polyol For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Polyols suitable for use in the present invention can be linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds bearing at least two —OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.

Preferably, the polyols that can be used in the composition according to the invention have at least 2 -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, Even more preferred are linear or branched, preferably linear alkyl type compounds bearing 2 or 3 —OH functional groups.

Polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating cosmetic compositions according to the invention are especially those having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, eg 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The polyols that can be used according to the invention are selected from linear or branched, preferably linear polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, especially the following:
- diols, such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, and
- triols, such as glycerol (glycerine),
and mixtures thereof,
can be mentioned.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention the polyol comprises at least one diol.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyols comprise in combination at least one diol and at least one polyol, especially a triol, having three or more -OH functional groups.

The composition according to the invention contains water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble alcohol is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. can be present in an amount of

Water-soluble alcohols are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, even more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. can be present in an amount of

Water-soluble alcohols are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 40% to 95% by weight, preferably 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. , and even more preferably in an amount in the range of 70% to 80% by weight.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the monohydric alcohol is at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, more preferably 80% by weight or less, even more preferably 75% by weight or more.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is 1% or more, preferably 3% or more, more preferably 5% or more, and even more preferably 7% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be present in an amount; 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, even more preferably 12% by weight or more.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises both monohydric alcohols and polyols, preferably in amounts ranging from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A combination of an alcohol and a polyol in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably a monohydric alcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight and a range from 3% to 20% by weight. more preferably a monohydric alcohol in an amount in the range from 60% to 80% by weight and a combination of polyols in an amount in the range from 5% to 15% by weight, especially 65% by weight. % to 75% by weight of a monohydric alcohol and an amount of 7% to 12% by weight of a polyol.

In a more particular embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one diol, the diol being at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 2% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be present in an amount of 3 wt% or more, even more preferably 5 wt% or more; 25 wt% or less, preferably 20 wt% or less, more preferably 15 wt% or less, even more preferably 10 wt% or more. may be

In another embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol, especially a triol, having 3 or more hydroxyl groups, and the polyol having 3 or more hydroxyl groups contributes to the total weight of the composition. may be present in an amount of 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 1.2% by weight or more; Below, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or more.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a combination of at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one diol and at least one triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a monohydric alcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. and triols in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight; more preferably monohydric alcohols in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight; amount of diols and triols in an amount within the range of 0.5% to 8% by weight; and triols in an amount in the range from 1% to 5% by weight; especially monohydric alcohols in an amount in the range from 65% to 75% by weight, in the range from 5% to 10% by weight. and an amount of triols in the range of 1.2% to 3% by weight.

(oil)
The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one oil. Two or more types of oil may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oil can be used.

As used herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

Among the oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of volatile or non-volatile oils, these being hydrocarbon-based oils, especially those of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, It can be a fluoro oil, or mixtures thereof.

For purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and/or phosphorus atoms. intended to mean Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially at least one Si-O group.

For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose solubility parameter δ _a at 25°C is other than 0(J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

In particular, "polar oils" are those having at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, whose chemical structure consists essentially of, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms. or is intended to mean an oil containing phosphorus atoms.

Definitions and calculations of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are given in the article "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space,
- δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions,
- δ _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between the permanent dipoles and also the caesom interaction forces between the induced and permanent dipoles,
- _δh characterizes the strength of a particular interaction (e.g. hydrogen bonding, acid/base bonding and donor/acceptor bonding, etc.);
- δ _a is determined by the formula δ _a =(δ _p ² +δ _h ² ) ^1/2 .

The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

Preferably, the polar oils used according to the invention have a δ _a between 4 and _9.1 , preferably between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

The oils may be non-polar oils such as hydrocarbon or silicone oils; polar oils such as vegetable or animal oils and ester or ether oils; or mixtures thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil. , soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ fatty acids. It is a liquid ester with group monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, and the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is 10 or more.

In one embodiment of the invention, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols have the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ (wherein R ₁ has 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably linear fatty acid containing -20 carbon atoms, wherein R ₂ is 1-40 carbon atoms, preferably 1-12 carbon atoms , more preferably represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ +R ₂ ≧10).

Among the monoesters of monoacids with monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate , isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

The ester oil is preferably selected from fatty acid ester oils.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy Esters with alcohols may also be used.

especially diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, Bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diisononane Mention may be made of acid diethylene glycol.

As ester oils sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing some alcohol functionality, with or without an aldehyde or ketone functionality, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. It is recalled to These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl Derivatives such as methyl glucose are included.

Sugar esters of fatty acids are inter alia a group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. can be selected from These compounds, if unsaturated, may have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, coconut fatty acid esters, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates. or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, among others.

More particularly mono- and diesters, especially of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and An oleostearate is used.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold by the company Amerchol under the name Glucate® DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexanoate. -ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearin isocetyl acid, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, tri(2-ethylhexanoate) glyceryl, tetra(2-ethylhexanoate) pentaerythrityl, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and these Mixtures may be mentioned.

As an ether oil, the formula:
^R1 - ^OR2
(In the formula,
Each of R ¹ and R ² is independently a linear, branched or cyclic C ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group. dialkyl ethers such as those represented by ). It may be preferred that R ¹ and R ² are the same.

Linear alkyl groups include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl groups. nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl radicals.

Branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, t-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl group, 1-butylpentyl group, 5-methyloctyl group, 1-ethylhexyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group, 1-butylpentyl group, 5-methyloctyl group, 2-butyloctyl group, isotridecyl group, 2- pentylnonyl group, 2-hexyldecyl group, isostearyl group, 2-heptylundecyl group, 2-octyldodecyl group, 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and 2-(1, 3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl groups may be mentioned.

Cyclic alkyl groups include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl groups.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(capric/caprylic)glyceryl, and tri(capric/caprylic/linolenic)glyceryl.

Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organically modified. Organomodified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, silicone oils containing in their structure one or more organic functional groups attached via hydrocarbon-based groups. be.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

If volatile, the silicone is more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly selected from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms; These are, for example, in particular the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, Volatile Silicone® sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by the company Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name 7158, by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217 Pentasiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane of the formula, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2 Mixtures with ,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane may also be mentioned.
(ii) a linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity at 25° C. of 5×10 ⁻⁶ m ² /s or less; An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.

Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups may be mentioned primarily.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:
- Silbione® or Mirasil® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series sold by the company Rhodia, such as the 70 047 V 500 000 oil,
- the Mirasil® series of oils sold by Rhodia,
- Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm ² /s, and
- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oils.

Phenyl silicone oils may be selected from phenyl silicones of the formula:

(In the formula,
R ₁ to R ₁₀ are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably a C ₁ to C ₁₂ hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,
m, n, p and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive;
However, the sum of n+m+q is non-zero).

Examples that may be mentioned include products marketed under the following names:
- 70 641 series Silbione® oils from Rhodia,
- 70 633 and 763 series Rhodorsil® oils from Rhodia,
- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, an oil manufactured by Dow Corning,
- PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20,
- Certain oils from the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Phenyl trimethicone (wherein R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl, p, q and n=0 and m=1) is preferred as the phenyl silicone oil.

Organically modified liquid silicones may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may therefore be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
- _C6 - _C16 lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.
- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane, and
- mixtures of alkanes, such as C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 Alkanes, C8-9 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes/cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes/cycloalkanes.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, and naphthalenes; hydrogen polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

The term "aliphatic" in fatty alcohols means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be straight chain or branched.

Aliphatic alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R contains 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, saturated and (selected from unsaturated, linear and branched groups). In at least one embodiment, R can be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl groups and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

Aliphatic alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R contains 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, saturated and is an unsaturated linear group).

Aliphatic alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R contains 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, saturated and is an unsaturated branched group).

Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol. , erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Accordingly, the fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C 30 alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C ₃₀ alcohols. It may be selected from saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alcohols, linear or branched.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" is used herein to refer to alcohols having long fatty saturated carbon chains. The saturated fatty alcohol is preferably selected from any linear or branched, saturated _C6 - _C30 fatty alcohol. Among the linear or branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, the linear or branched saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can preferably be used. Any linear or branched saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol can more preferably be used. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used even more preferably.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

The oil is also preferably selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g/mol.

Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g/mol, and is an ester oil with short hydrocarbon chains (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ), such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and palmitic acid. ethylhexyl), silicone oils (e.g. volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g. isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

The oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, fatty alcohols and combinations thereof. Oils are both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ (wherein R ₁ represents the residue of a linear fatty acid containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and R ₂ , representing a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms) and a monoester of a monoacid with a monohydric alcohol, represented by the structure R-OH, where R is 4 40 carbon atoms, preferably selected from saturated branched groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. More preferred.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight, even more preferably at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Possible.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention is 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Possible.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention is 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, it can be 4% to 10% by mass.

In one particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1% by weight of N-acyl amino acid ester oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. , even more preferably in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight. In a more particular embodiment according to the invention, the composition is free of N-acyl amino acid ester oil. As an example of N-acyl amino acid ester oil, lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl can be mentioned.

(Ingredients derived from Nymphaea plants)
The composition according to the invention comprises (d) at least one component derived from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family. Two or more types of ingredients derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants or a combination of different types of ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be used.

By "ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceae plants" is intended to mean any material derived from Nymphaeaceae plants. Ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceae plants can include Nymphaeaceae plants, tissues, extracts, internal fluids or slurries thereof, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the Nymphaeaceous plant-derived ingredient may be selected from commercial products including Nymphaeaceae plants, their tissues, extracts, internal fluids or slurries, and mixtures thereof.

Nymphaeaceae plants include Nymphaea plants, for example, water lily (white water lily), odoriferous water lily (fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy), Nymphaea mexicana ( yellow water lily), agabanana lily (India red water lily), white water lily (Egyptian white water lily), tropical water lily, crocodile (pygmy water lily) and horticultural water lily (pygmy water lily); unibus (Santa Cruz water lily); unibus plants such as unibus (Prickly water lily);

In some embodiments, the Nymphaea plant can be selected from the Nymphaea genus. In certain embodiments, the Nymphaeaceae plant may be selected from the water lily.

Nymphaeaceous plants may be whole plants or parts thereof, such as whole plants, aerial parts thereof, roots, bulbs, seedlings, buds, seeds, leaves, flowers, or combinations thereof.

The extract, internal fluid or slurry may be derived from the whole plant or parts thereof, such as the whole plant, its aerial parts, roots, bulbs, seedlings, sprouts, seeds, leaves, flowers, or combinations thereof.

The extract of the Nymphaeaceae plant may be a solvent extract, preferably an aqueous, alcoholic or water-alcoholic extract such as a water-propylene glycol extract.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the Nymphaeaceous plant-derived ingredient is a Nymphaeaceae root extract. In a particular embodiment, the ingredient derived from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family may advantageously be, inter alia, the Nymphomatum root extract marketed under the name WATER LILY PRO by the company LIPOID KOSMETIK.

The amount of components derived from Nymphaeaceous plants in the composition according to the present invention is 0.0005% by mass or more, preferably 0.001% by mass or more, more preferably 0.0025% by mass or more, and even more preferably, relative to the total mass of the composition. can be 0.005% by mass or more.

The amount of components derived from Nymphaeaceous plants in the composition according to the present invention is 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, and even more preferably, relative to the total mass of the composition. may be 0.5% by mass or less, more preferably 0.1% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.05% by mass or less.

The amount of the agent containing components derived from Nymphaeaceous plants in the composition according to the present invention is 0.0005% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.001% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. can be 0.0025% to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, especially 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, preferentially 0.005% to 0.05% by weight.

(other ingredients)
The composition according to the invention can contain water. The amount of water depends on the amount of other ingredients.

The amount of water in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, even more preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, Preferentially, it may be 7% by mass or more.

The amount of water in the composition according to the invention is 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, more preferably 60% by weight or less, more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferably 50% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 30% by mass or less, still more preferably 20% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 10% by mass or less.

The amount of water in the composition according to the invention is from 0.1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 1% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably 1% to 60% by weight, even more preferably 3% to 50% by weight, preferentially 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially 3% to 30% by weight, even more preferably Preferentially, it may be between 5% and 20% by weight, in particular between 5% and 10% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention contain physiologically acceptable media, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or bipolar ionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrants; pH adjusters; anti-dandruff agents; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffering agents; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; agents capable of producing a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and one or more adjuvants common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from mixtures thereof.

It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art will appreciate that the composition of the invention should be such that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected or substantially not adversely affected by the contemplated additions. Optional adjuvants added to the product will be carefully selected.

Adjuvants are present in the composition of the invention preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be present in an amount within the % range.

Compositions according to the invention are, for example, solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, emulsions, pastes, creams, foams, emulsions (O/W or W/O form) as well as multiplexes (e.g. It can take various forms such as W/O/W, polyol/O/W and O/W/O) emulsions. The compositions according to the invention are preferably solutions, in particular homogeneous solutions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

In one particular embodiment according to the invention, the composition contains a surfactant different from components (a) to (d) of the invention, such as a cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant. , in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another specific embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of any surfactant other than components (a)-(d) of the invention.

In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 30%, preferably less than 15%, more preferably less than 10%, even more preferably less than 5% sugar, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be contained in an amount of less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight. In some embodiments, compositions according to the invention do not contain any sugar.

In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise phospholipids in an amount of less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It's okay. In some embodiments, compositions according to the invention do not contain any phospholipids.

The composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, especially to keratinous substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous material" is intended to mean skin and keratinous fibres. The term "skin" as used herein includes facial and body skin, as well as the scalp. The term "keratinous fibers" as used herein includes eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for topical application to keratinous substances such as the scalp, skin and hair. In some embodiments, the composition can be a hair care and/or scalp care and/or skin care composition.

The compositions used according to the invention are preferably intended for use as leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic compositions. The term "leave-on" means a composition that is not intended to be washed off/rinsed off, ie removed, immediately after application. Leave-on compositions differ from rinse-off type compositions which are intended to be rinsed off after application to keratinous substances.

The compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients according to any method well known to those skilled in the art.

For example, a composition according to the invention can be prepared by the following steps:
(i) adding soluble ingredients, such as deionized water, water-soluble alcohols, water-soluble diols, water-soluble active agents, and thickening agents, if present, to a beaker at room temperature;
(ii) stirring the mixture from step (i) until all ingredients are fully dissolved;
(iii) adding other ingredients such as oil and menthol to the mixture from step (ii); and
(iv) may be prepared by a method comprising stirring the mixture from step (iii) until all ingredients are fully dissolved.

[Cosmetic method and cosmetic use]
The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for the care and/or conditioning of keratinous substances, such as hair, scalp and/or skin, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous substances. .

By cosmetic method is meant here a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or conditioning keratinous substances.

The application step can be performed by any conventional means, including applicators such as hands, sprays and brushes. The applying step can be a topical application step.

The composition according to the invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic method according to the invention does not comprise a step of rinsing or washing off the applied composition from the keratinous material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic method of the present invention removes the applied composition within 1 hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step. Does not include rinsing or washing off steps.

Furthermore, the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention in the field of cosmetology, in particular the care and/or conditioning of keratinous substances.

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples, but the examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[Compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1]
Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1 below. All numerical values for the amount of ingredients given in Table 1 are based on "% by weight" of active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition. A hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol product called MEXORYL SCN® was obtained from NOVEAL. A water lily root extract product called WATER LILY PRO® was obtained from LIPOID KOSMETIK.

[evaluation]
(strength analysis)
Strength analysis by bend angle testing was performed on each tress using a reference tress to which no composition was applied.

Two tresses (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Prior to application, each tress was washed with plain shampoo as shown in Table 2. After shampooing, the tresses were rinsed with water and then towel dried. 0.20 g each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 were applied to each hair tress and left for 5 minutes in a 24° C./40% RH environment.

For bending angle measurement, the following measuring instruments:
- Hair stand plate with clips for fixing hair bundles
- Jack stands for adjusting the position of hair bundles
- Double-sided tape to fix the stand plate on the jack
- Digital camera
- Using image analysis software.

The base of the hair bundle was fixed on the plate. On the other hand, the tip of the tuft was released so that the tip of the tuft was held and turned upwards, and then the tip of the tress was able to point downwards. In this way, the tufts of hair were allowed to bend naturally due to gravity. Using image analysis software as a means of estimating hair strength/stiffness, we measured the angle between the plate and the root of the hair bundle (hair bundle) (Figure 1).

The results are shown in Table 3 below. The bending angle of the hair bundle itself was 71°. The greater the bending angle, the better the strength of the tress. It should be noted that a bend angle of 74° or greater is the threshold for considering good strength.

(sensory evaluation)
Three tresses (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Prior to application, each tress was washed with plain shampoo as shown in Table 2. After shampooing, the tresses were rinsed with water and then towel dried. 0.20 g each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 were applied to each hair tress and left for 5 minutes before being blown dry. The tresses were then evaluated by six chemists for smoothness, greasiness and firmness.

Smoothness, stickiness and hardness were evaluated according to the following criteria (1-5). By benchmark is meant the rating result on the tress itself, i.e. without any composition applied.

5: Much higher than the benchmark
4: higher than benchmark
3: Equivalent to benchmark
2: lower than benchmark
1: much lower than the benchmark

The scores thus obtained were averaged. The results are shown in Table 4 below.

[result]
As can be seen from the results shown in Table 3, it was found that the compositions according to Examples 1-3, each comprising ingredients derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family, were able to provide greater strength to the hair. .

Thus, it can be said that the addition of ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants can provide keratin fibers with volumizing benefits and better integrity.

Interestingly, as can be seen from the results shown in Table 4, the composition according to Example 2, which contains ingredients derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family, was able to reduce the feeling of stickiness and was able to It has been found that it can provide enhanced cosmetic benefits such as smoothness and firmness.

In contrast, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not contain ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants, resulted in a more sticky feel and less smooth and stiff properties and reduced hair strength.

It should be noted that the ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants were able to reduce the stickiness and increase the smoothness of the hair tresses after application of the composition, even though the composition contains oil. Thus, the results demonstrate that compositions containing ingredients derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family are capable of providing a smooth, yet non-greasy coating on hair. Ingredients derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family were also found to be able to increase the firmness of hair tresses. The increase in hair firmness indicates that the addition of ingredients derived from plants of the Nymphaeaceae family can provide increased volume to the hair.

Therefore, it can be said that the composition according to the invention can exhibit better acceptability as a cosmetic with a reduced sticky feel, especially in the case of a topical cosmetic composition for the scalp. In addition, compositions according to the present invention can provide hair with improved strength and a smoother, less sticky texture. Furthermore, since the amount of oil is not reduced to reduce the sticky feeling, it can be said that the composition according to the invention is able to maintain good penetration properties of the active agent for the skin and/or scalp. . It can therefore be concluded that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is highly preferred as a topical cosmetic composition for the care and/or conditioning of keratinous substances, in particular the scalp.

Claims (15)

(a) at least one hydrophilic active agent;
(b) at least one water-soluble alcohol;
(c) at least one oil; and
(d) (a) A composition comprising at least one component derived from a plant of the Nymphaeaceae family, different from the at least one hydrophilic active agent. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (d) at least one ingredient derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant is an extract of a Nymphaeaceae plant. 3. A composition according to claim 2, wherein the extract is a root extract. Nymphaeaceae plants are Nymphaea plants, for example, Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (Blue pygmy), Nymphaea mexicana ( yellow water lily), agabanana lily (India red water lily), white water lily (Egyptian white water lily), tropical water lily, crocodile (pygmy water lily) and horticultural water lily (pygmy water lily); From unibus (Santa Cruz water lily); unibus plants such as unibus (Prickly water lily); 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, selected from the group consisting of: (d) the amount of at least one component derived from a Nymphaeaceae plant is 0.0005% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.0025% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; % to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, in particular 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, preferentially 0.005% to 0.05% by weight. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (b) the at least one water-soluble alcohol comprises in combination at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one diol and at least one triol. thing. (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol is present in the composition from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, present in an amount in the range of -85% by weight, more preferably 70% to 80% by weight. 8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (c) at least one oil is selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols and combinations thereof. (c) the amount of at least one oil is from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 20%, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, even more preferably in the range of 4% to 10% by weight. (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from moisturizing agents, bleaching agents, exfoliating agents, anti-aging agents, matting agents, scarring agents, antibacterial agents, blood circulation-promoting ingredients, and mixtures thereof; 10. The composition of any one of claims 1-9, wherein the composition is (a) the amount of at least one hydrophilic active agent is from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the range of % by weight, more preferably 2% to 10% by weight or more, especially 3% to 10% by weight. 0.1% to 90% by weight, preferably 1% to 80% by weight, more preferably 1% to 70% by weight, more preferably 1% to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition %, more preferably 3% to 50% by weight, preferentially 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially 3% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially 5% to 20% by weight. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising an amount by weight, in particular in the range from 5% to 10% by weight. 13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which is in the form of a homogeneous solution. (b) the at least one water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one diol, and the amount of the at least one diol is from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; % to 20% by weight, more preferably 3% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 5% to 10% by weight. 15. A cosmetic method for caring for and/or conditioning keratinous substances, e.g. skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 to keratinous substances. beauty methods, including;

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