JP2022171810A - Silicone-free composition for keratin fiber in form of ultra-fine o/w emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a silicone-free composition for a keratin fiber which not only has a transparent or translucent appearance but also imparts a good feeling to hair.

SOLUTION: There is provided a composition for a keratin fiber, preferably for hair in a form of an O/W emulsion in which droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase, where the composition contains at least one surfactant, the droplets have a number-average diameter of less than 200 nm and the composition contains no silicone or contains less than 0.001 mass% of silicone with respect to the total mass of the composition. The composition not only has a transparent or translucent appearance but also imparts an excellent feeling to the hair.

SELECTED DRAWING: None

COPYRIGHT: (C)2023,JPO&INPIT

Description

The present invention provides silicone-free compositions for keratin fibers in the form of ultrafine O/W emulsions, especially shampoos, which are transparent or translucent and can give better performance than silicone-containing compositions. It relates to silicone-free compositions.

A transparent or translucent composition for keratin fibers, such as a transparent or translucent shampoo, has an aesthetic appearance as a product and is therefore an attractive product for consumers. Many transparent or translucent shampoos containing silicones are widely known. Silicones are commonly used in hair washing/conditioning compositions to easily detangle the hair and to impart flexibility and softness to the hair. For example, US8425501(B2) discloses a highly light-transmissive or translucent shampoo composition comprising a silicone oil having an internal phase viscosity of less than about 50,000 cst. US2004/0076596 (A1) discloses optically clear compositions for hair treatment, such as shampoos, containing hydrophobic silicone oils. EP 1330229 (B2) discloses optically clear aqueous compositions, such as shampoos, containing hydrophobic silicone oils.

In recent years, consumers have become more sensitive to the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics and have shown interest in more environmentally friendly products. Regarding silicones, there are currently environmental concerns. Therefore, there is a strong need for silicone-free, clear or translucent shampoos that can match the performance of silicone-containing shampoos.

However, when natural oils such as triglyceride oils are used instead of silicone oils in compositions for keratin fibers, it becomes difficult to maintain a transparent or translucent appearance for a long period of time. Therefore, there is not yet a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers that fully satisfies the consumer.

US8425501(B2) US2004/0076596(A1) EP1330229(B2) U.S. Patent No. 2,528,378 U.S. Patent No. 2,781,354 U.S. Patent No. 4,874,554 U.S. Patent No. 4,137,180

CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014 CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 CTFA, 1997 "Handbook of Surfactants", M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son Publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178

It is an object of the present invention to provide a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers which not only has a transparent or translucent appearance, but also imparts a good feel to the hair.

The above object of the present invention is a composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O/W emulsion with oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, the composition comprising at least one surface-active wherein the oil droplets contain at least one non-silicone oil, the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm, and the composition is free of silicone or less than 0.001% by weight based on the total weight of the composition It can be achieved by a composition containing silicone.

Non-silicone oils can be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Non-silicone oils may preferably be vegetable oils such as triglyceride oils.

The non-silicone oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 10%, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. good too.

Surfactants can be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated and polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, such as polyoxyethylenated nonionic surfactants. be.

The surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 70%, preferably from 20% to 60%, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. good too.

The number average diameter of the oil droplets can be less than 180 nm, preferably less than 160 nm, more preferably less than 140 nm.

The number average diameter of the oil droplets may be above 1 nm, preferably above 5 nm, more preferably above 10 nm, especially above 20 nm.

The composition may be a cleansing composition for the hair, such as shampoos and hair conditioners.

The composition can have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

Preferably, the composition is free of silicone.

The present invention also relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O/W emulsion with oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, the number average diameter of the oil droplets being less than 200 nm. There is
- mixing at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant;
- diluting the mixture with water to form an O/W emulsion;
- optionally at least one selected from the group consisting of surfactants, conditioning agents, preservatives, pH adjusters and other customary auxiliaries used in the field of compositions for treating keratin fibers adding an additional agent to the composition, wherein the composition is free of silicone or contains less than 0.001% by weight silicone relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers, preferably for washing hair, comprising:
- applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers;
- rinsing the treated keratin fibers with a sufficient amount of water.

After intensive investigations, the inventors have found that keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of ultra-fine O/W emulsions, which not only have a transparent or translucent appearance, but also can impart excellent sensations to the hair. It has been discovered that it is possible to provide a silicone-free composition for

Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O/W emulsion with oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, wherein the composition comprises at least one interface containing an active agent, wherein the oil droplets contain at least one non-silicone oil, the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm, and the composition is free of silicone or less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition A composition comprising a silicone of

The composition according to the present invention can impart good moisturizing feeling, smoothness, combability, etc. to the hair. The composition according to the invention can thus be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing composition, more preferably a shampoo.

The compositions according to the invention are described in more detail herein below.

[Composition]
The composition according to the invention contains less than 0.001% by weight silicone, preferably less than 0.0005% by weight silicone, more preferably less than 0.0001% by weight silicone relative to the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the composition is free of silicone.

In other words, the compositions according to the invention are "silicone-free" compositions.

The silicone-free composition according to the present invention gives the hair a better feel, such as good moisturization, smoothness and combability, while the small size of the oil droplets of the ultrafine O/W emulsion A transparent or translucent appearance can be maintained. The transparency of the composition can be determined by measuring the turbidity with, for example, a turbidity meter (2100Q portable, Hach Company). Preferably, the turbidity of the composition is greater than 0, preferably greater than 10, and less than 200, preferably less than 150.

The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, preferably a cleansing composition for keratin fibers, more preferably a cleansing composition for hair and scalp. Thus, the compositions according to the invention may optionally be used in the form of colored shampoos, hair-restoring lotions, permanent waving compositions, scalp shampoos or conditioners, hair loss control lotions or gels, shampoos, hair dyes. They may be conditioners, hair lotions, disentanglers, hair creams or gels, styling lacquers, hair setting lotions, treatment lotions, dyeing compositions (especially for oxidation dyeing). Most preferably, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo or hair conditioner.

Oil droplets The oil droplets (oil phase) of the O/W emulsion according to the invention comprise at least one non-silicone oil. The amount of oil phase may range from 0.1% to 80%, preferably from 0.2% to 60%, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oil phase is in the form of ultrafine droplets, so the O/W emulsion according to the invention is also called "ultrafine O/W emulsion". The number average diameter of the oil droplets in the ultrafine O/W emulsions of the invention is less than 200 nm, preferably less than 180 nm, more preferably less than 160 nm, especially less than 140 nm. Generally, the number average diameter of the oil droplets is preferably above 1 nm, more preferably above 5 nm, even more preferably above 10 nm, especially above 20 nm. The particle size of oil droplets can be measured, for example, by a particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies).

(non-silicone oil)
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil. Two or more non-silicone oils may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of non-silicone oil or a combination of different types of non-silicone oils can be used.

Here, "non-silicone oil" means a non-silicone compound or substance that is in liquid or paste or solid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As non-silicone oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

Non-silicone oils can be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The non-silicone oil is preferably a natural oil selected from vegetable or animal oils.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Inc., Eldew PS203), glycerol. _{triglycerides (} these _oils are _optionally linear or branched saturated or unsaturated, especially heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil , quinoa oil, rye oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula Oil, camellia oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil (coconut palm oil), marrow seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia Oil, Corn Oil, Medfoam Oil, St John's Wort Oil, Monoi Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Walnut Oil, Olive Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Palm Oil, Blackcurrant Seed Oil, Kiwi Seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic/capric triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel). can be done. Mention may also be made of modified vegetable oils, for example activated coconut oil such as that sold under the name Scalpro or Acnaed by the company Biotropics.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of these esters being preferably 10 or more, preferably 30 or less.

Preferably, in the case of esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols: ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate , isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy acids. Esters with hydroxy alcohols can also be used.

Among others, diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroylsarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, adipic acid Diisostearyl, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neodiheptanoate Mention may be made of pentyl glycol, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least 4 carbon atoms containing some alcohol functionality, with or without an aldehyde or ketone functionality. be. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl Derivatives, such as methyl glucose, are included.

Sugar esters of fatty acids are inter alia esters or mixtures of esters of the previously mentioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. can be selected from the group comprising When they are unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, coconut fatty acid esters, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonic acid esters. Esters, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid, and palmitostearic acid, among others, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

More particularly mono- and diesters, especially monooleate or dioleate esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleates A stearic acid ester is used.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexanoate. 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, Hexyl Laurate, Isocetyl Stearate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isodecyl Oleate, Glyceryl Tri(2-ethylhexanoate), Pentaerythrityl Tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-Ethylhexyl Succinate, Sebacic Acid Mention may be made of diethyl, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(capric/caprylic)glyceryl , and tri(capric/caprylic/linolenic)glyceryl.

Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
- C6 _{- C16} lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
- straight or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene; , isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

The term "fat" in fatty alcohols means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus alcohols with 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

Fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R is a saturated and unsaturated selected from linear and branched groups. In at least one embodiment, R can be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol. , erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Fatty alcohols are therefore linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, more preferably linear or It can be selected from branched, saturated _{C12-C20 alcohols} .

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" is used herein to mean alcohols with long aliphatic saturated carbon chains. The saturated fatty alcohol is preferably selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6 _{- C30} fatty alcohol. Among the linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used. More preferably, any linear or branched saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol can be used. More preferably, branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

The amount of non-silicone oil in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants can be used.

Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. Surfactants can be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

i) Anionic Surfactant The composition may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Anionic surfactants include (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl sulfates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl ether sulfates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, Monoglyceride Sulfonates; (C6 _{- C30} ) Alkyl Sulfonates, (C6 _{- C30} ) Alkyl Amido Sulfonates, (C6 _{- C30} ) Alkyl Aryl Sulfonates, α-Olefin Sulfonates, Paraffin Sulfonates; (C6 _{- C30} ) (C6-C30) alkyl phosphates; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl amide sulfosuccinates; (C6 _- C30) alkyl sulfosuccinates; ₃₀ ) Alkyl sulfoacetate; (C6 _{- C24} ) acyl sarcosinate; (C6 _{- C24} ) acyl glutamate; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic acid ether; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl Polyglycoside sulfosuccinates; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl sulfosuccinamates; (C6 _{- C24} ) acyl isethionates; N- ₍ C6 _{- C24} ) acyl _taurate ; fatty acid salts; coconut oil salts or hydrogenated coconut oil salts; (C8 _{- C20} ) acyl lactylates; (C6- _C30 ) alkyl-D _- galactoside _uronates ; C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl amide ether carboxylates; and corresponding acids. is preferably selected from the group consisting of the form

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, such as sodium; salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; be. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in the acid form.

Anionic surfactants are (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl sulfates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl ether sulfates or chlorinated or non-chlorinated polyoxyalkylenated (C6 _{- C30} ) More preferably it is selected from alkyl ether carboxylic acids.

In particular, the anionic surfactant may be a (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl ether sulfate such as lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, and salts and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the lauryl sulfate may be sodium lauryl sulfate and the laureth sulfate may be sodium laureth sulfate. Most preferably, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate.

(ii) Amphoteric Surfactant The composition may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are for example (non-limiting list) amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives. wherein the aliphatic group contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and contains at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate). A chain or branched chain.

Amphoteric surfactants can preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

The amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from betaine-type surfactants.

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, especially (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) selected from the group consisting of alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines; In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are (C8- _C24 )alkylbetaines, ₍ C8 _{- C24} )alkylamido ₍ C1 _- C8)alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, and phosphobetaines. is selected from

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, alone or as a mixture. , under the names cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014. Includes compounds classified in

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, especially cocobetaines and cocamidopropylbetaines.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives are those sold under the name Miranol, described in U.S. Pat. Products classified in 1982 (the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference) can be mentioned and have the following respective structures:
R1 _- CONHCH2CH2 _- N ⁺ ( _R2 )(R3) _{( CH2COO-} ⁾ M ₊ X- ⁽ B1 ⁾
[In the formula,
R ₁ represents the alkyl group, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil,
R ₂ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group,
M ⁺ denotes cationic ions derived from alkali metals such as sodium; ammonium ions; or ions derived from organic amines,
X ⁻ is an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulfate, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl ( C ₁ -C ₄ ) aryl-sulfonate ions, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate ions, or M ⁺ and X ⁻ are absent];
R1' _{- CONHCH2CH2 -} N(B)(C) (B2)
[In the formula,
R ₁ ' is an alkyl group of the acid R ₁ '-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group such as a _C7 , _C9 , _C11 or _C13 alkyl group, a _C17 alkyl group and isoform, or showing an unsaturated C ₁₇ group,
_B represents _-CH2CH2OX ',
C represents -( _CH2 ) _z -Y', z = 1 or 2,
X' represents a _{-CH2 -} COOH group, _{-CH2 - COOZ} ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2 _- COOZ' or a hydrogen atom;
Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH- _SO3Z ', _-CH2 -CHOH- _SO3H group or _{-CH2 -} CH(OH)-SO3 _- Z'group; ,
Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion];
as well as
_Ra'' -NH-CH(Y'')-( _CH2 ) _n -C(O)-NH-( _CH2 ) _n' -N(Rd)(Re) (B'2)
[In the formula,
Y'' is -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', _-CH2 -CH(OH)-SO3H or _{-CH2 -} CH(OH)-SO3 _- Z'' where Z'' represents a cationic ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion,
Rd and Re represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl group,
R _a″ represents an acid-derived C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl group or alkenyl group,
n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3].

Amphoteric surfactants having formulas B1 and B2 are (C8- _C24 )-alkylamphomonoacetates, (C8 _{- C24} ) _{alkylamphodiacetates} , (C8 _{- C24} )alkylamphomonopropionates , and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphodipropionates.

These compounds are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, capryloane disodium It is classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 under the names disodium hodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide sodium (CTFA) marketed under the name CHIMEXANE HB by the company CHIMEX.

(iii) Cationic surfactant The composition may contain at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

Cationic surfactants can be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. .

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
- of the following general formula (B3):

[In the formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and contain from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. straight and branched chain aliphatic groups including, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido (C ₂ -C ₆ ) aliphatic groups, which can be selected from alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl acetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl, where X ⁻ is a halide ion, acid ions, acetate ions, lactate ions, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkylsulphate ions, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonate ions];
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, e.g. of formula (B4) below:

[In the formula,
R5 is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing ₈ to 30 carbon atoms, such as beef tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives,
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
_R7 is selected from C1 _{- C4} alkyl groups,
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
X ⁻ is selected from halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkylsulfate, alkylsulfonate, and alkylarylsulfonate. _In one embodiment R ₅ and R ₆ are a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups, e.g. containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, e.g. , R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include Quaternium-27 (CTFA, 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA, 1997) sold under the name "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by Witco. years)];
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):

[In the formula,
R9 is selected from aliphatic groups containing ₁₆ to 30 carbon atoms,
R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH ₂ ) ₃ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ X- _- group;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a , which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; is,
X ⁻ is selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, ethylsulfate, and methylsulfate.
An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75) from FINETEX];
and quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:

[In the formula,
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl groups;
_R23 is
The following groups:

, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₇ , and hydrogen;
_R25 is
The following groups:

, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ , and hydrogen;
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals;
r, s, and t, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, is 0 or 1, r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t,
y is selected from integers ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, provided that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R ₂₃ is R ₂₇ and z is 0, R ₂₅ is provided that R ₂₉ is shown. R ₂₂ can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from linear alkyl groups. In another embodiment R ₂₂ is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl groups, such as methyl and ethyl groups. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When _R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group _R27 , it may be long-chain and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short-chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. good too. When _R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it may contain, for example, ₁ to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ can be the same or different, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals, such as linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z are the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to one. In another embodiment r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, eg equal to 2. The anions X ⁻ can be selected, for example, from halide ions, such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C ₁ -C ₄ alkylsulphates, such as methylsulphate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and all other anions compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups may be used in the present invention. Other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used in accordance with the invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride and methylsulfate].

In another embodiment, the ammonium salt of formula (B6) [wherein
R ₂₂ is selected from methyl and ethyl groups,
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s, and t are equal to 2,
_R23 is
The following groups:

, methyl, ethyl, and _C14 - _C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals and hydrogen;
_R25 is
The following groups:

, and hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, such as linear chain. selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups] can be used.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl- Included are salts of methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, such as chlorides and methylsulfates, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are, for example, the direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine to fatty acids or to mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin. or by transesterifying their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by alkyl halides such as methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl and diethyl sulfate; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; It may be quaternized using an alkylating agent selected from hydrins.

Such compounds are known, for example, by Cognis under the name Dehyquart®, by Stepan under the name Stepanquat®, by Ceca under the name Noxamium® and by Rewo-Goldschmidt It is marketed under the name "Rewoquat® WE 18".

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functionality as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. is included.

The aforementioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, the alkyl groups of which have from about 12 to 22 containing carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and "Ceraphyl® 70" by Van Dyk. and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the name

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention are behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenyl chloride is selected from amidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine;

(iv) Nonionic surfactant The composition may contain at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son Publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-116). See page 178).

Nonionic surfactants may be fatty acid amides, any amide containing at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms in its structure can be used. Fatty acid amides may be selected from compounds derived from amides of alkanolamines and amides of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C8 _{- C30} fatty acids, the alkanolamines and/or fatty acids being optionally It is optionally oxyalkylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.

Fatty acid amides are preferably selected from _{C2 - C10} alkanolamines and amides of C14- _C30 fatty acids, more preferably from _{C2 - C10 alkanolamines and amides of C14-C22 fatty} acids. .

Advantageously, the fatty acid amide is coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide, such as cocamide MIPA oleic diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soy fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, It can be selected from stearic acid monoethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, and canola seed fatty acid amides containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide. Most preferably, fatty acid amides may include cocamide MIPA marketed under the designation EMPILAN CIS by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS.

Nonionic surfactants can also be selected, for example, from alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, such as It has at least one fatty chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranges from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups ranges from 1 to 30. It is possible. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing ₂ to ₃₀ mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters of alkyl polyglycosides; N-(C6 _{- C24} )alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as ₍ C10 _- C14)alkylamine oxides or N- ₍ C10 _- C14). Acylaminopropyl morpholine oxide; and mixtures thereof may also be mentioned without limitation.

The nonionic surfactant can preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following, alone or in mixtures:
- monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8 _{- C24} ) alkylphenols,
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, _{monooxyalkylenated} or polyoxyalkylenated C8- _C30 alcohols,
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, _{monooxyalkylenated} or polyoxyalkylenated C8- _C30 amides,
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 _{- C30} acids with polyalkylene glycols,
- monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 _{- C30} acids with sorbitol,
- saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and
- especially condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide.

The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are polyoxyethylenated fatty acid glycerides (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid glycerides), polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenenated alkyl ethers. , polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols) and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids).

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty acid glycerides or partial glycerides that may be mentioned are those having at least 30 polyalkylene units, ie 30 to 1000, preferably 30 to 500, more preferably 30 to 200. , most preferably those having 40 to 100 polyethylene glycol units. Examples include PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. Oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Castor Oil, PEG-50 Castor Oil, PEG-55 Castor Oil, PEG- 60 castor oil, PEG-80 castor oil, PEG-100 castor oil, PEG-200 castor oil.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alkyl ethers that may be mentioned include polyoxyethylenated (1-40EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30PO) alkyl (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ) ethers, especially PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PPG-8 ceteth-20, and PPG-23 steareth- Included are polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ ) ethers which can be selected from the group consisting of 34.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols ₍ or C8- _C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA names laureth-10 to laureth-12); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names beheneth -9 to beheneth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteareth-10 to ceteareth-30); ); ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteth-10 to ceteth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units. containing ethylene units (CTFA names steareth-10 to steareth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names isosteareth-50); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols ₍ or C8- _C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Oleth-10 through Oleth-40); and mixtures thereof.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols may correspond to the formula:
RO-[ _CH2 -CH( _CH2OH )-O] _m -H or RO-[CH( _CH2OH ) _-CH2O ] _m -H
[wherein R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, m ranges from 1 to 30, preferably from 1.5 to 10; represents a number].

Examples of suitable compounds in connection with the present invention are lauryl alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether) containing 4 mol of glycerol, lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl containing 4 mol of glycerol Alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol , oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistic, which means that in commercial products several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of mixtures. means that

Among monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, C8/ _C10 alcohols containing _{1 mol} glycerol, C10/C12 alcohols containing ₁ mol glycerol, and _C12 alcohols containing 1.5 mol glycerol. It is preferred to use

Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 _{- C40} fatty esters have the formula
R'O-[ _CH2 -CH ₍ CH2OR''')-O] _m -R'' or R'O-[CH(CH2OR''')- _CH2O ] _{m -} R''
[wherein each of R′, R″ and R′″ is independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl represents a -CO- or alkenyl-CO- group with the proviso that at least one of R', R'' and R''' is not a hydrogen atom and m is from 1 to 30, preferably represents a number in the range 1.5 to 10]
can be equivalent to

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned are ethylene oxide adducts of esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units. PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate) PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG behenate -50 (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactant comprises a polyol and a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof containing preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C _{22 Glyceryl esters} of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof containing preferably ₁₀ to 200, more preferably ₁₀ to 100 oxyalkylene units; Sorbitol esters and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof containing preferably 10 to 200, more preferably ₁₀ to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugars of C8 _{- C24} , preferably C12- _C22 fatty acids ( sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkylglucose) esters and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof containing preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols ethers of sugars and _{C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 fatty alcohols ;} and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, list glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives include mono-, di-, or tri-esters of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated glycerols (mono-, di-, or tri-esters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol). ester), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) can do.

Mixtures of these surfactants, such as products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema, and stearins, marketed under the name TEGIN by the company Goldschmidt. Products containing glyceryl acid (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) and the like can also be used.

Sorbitol esters of C8 _{- C24} fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives are selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, 20 to 100 EO. can do. Preferably, the sorbitol esters of C8 _{- C24} fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Polysorbate 60). Other examples of sorbitol esters of C8 _{- C24} fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives that may be mentioned are sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by the company ICI (CTFA name: stearic acid sorbitan), sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) marketed by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (marketed by the company ICI under the name Tween 65 (CTFA name : polysorbate 65), polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

Esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearate, such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitate, such as methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, methyl Diesters of glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate), mixed esters of methylglucoside and a mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearate (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), of methylglucoside and isostearic acid Ester (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate), ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate), mixture of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate) ), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by the company AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof. .

Ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose include, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methylglucose and stearic acid having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG distearate -20 methyl glucose), for example the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL, a polyethylene glycol ether (CTFA) of a mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide. name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof can be enumerated.

Sucrose esters may include, for example, saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate, and saccharose monolaurate.

As sugar ethers alkyl polyglucosides can be used, for example decyl glucosides, such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for example the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by the company Seppic or LUTENSOL GD 70 by the company BASF, lauryl glucoside, e.g. the products marketed under the name PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by the company Henkel, coco-glucosides, e.g. the products marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by the company Henkel, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. cetostearyl glucosides, such as those marketed by the company Seppic under the name MONTANOV 68, by Goldschmidt under the name TEGO-CARE CG90, and by Henkel under the name EMULGADE KE3302, arachidyl glucosides, such as MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic. in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucosides marketed under the name of Cocoyl ethyl glucoside, e.g. a mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohols marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic (35/65) and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular.

Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides may also be mentioned.

Nonionic surfactants according to the invention preferably contain alkenyl or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acyl chains, eg oleyl or isostearyl groups. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular of the formula
HO _{( C2H4O} ) _{a ( C3H6O} ) _{b ( C2H4O} ) _cH
[wherein a, b, and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60]
and mixtures thereof.

The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the invention ranges from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium. The aqueous medium is water or water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent such as C ₁ -C ₄ lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols; as well as mixtures of these. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains water.

The amount of water is not limited and may be 40% to 99%, preferably 50% to 95%, more preferably 55% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

(conditioning agent)
A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one conditioning agent. Two or more conditioning agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of conditioning agent or a combination of different types of conditioning agents can be used.

Conditioning agents can provide conditioning benefits to keratin fibers such as hair.

Preferably, the conditioning agent may be a cationic polymer or an amphoteric polymer.

Conditioning polymers are preferably selected from:
(1) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamines or of dialkyldiallylammonium salts, e.g. homopolymers or copolymers containing units corresponding to the following formulas as major constituents of the chain:

[In the formula,
k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t is equal to 1,
R ₁₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ are independently of each other an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group wherein the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, lower (C ₁ -C ₄ ) represents an amidoalkyl group, or R10 and R11 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached may represent a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl;
R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ independently of each other denote an alkyl group preferably containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms].

Among the polymers defined above, more particular mention may be made of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold by the company Nalco under the name Merquat 100 and its homologues with a low weight-average molecular weight, and Merquat 550 is a copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name

(2) Quaternary diammonium polymers with, in particular, repeating units corresponding to the formula:

[In the formula,
R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ may be the same or different and are aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower represents a hydroxyalkylaliphatic group, or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, optionally a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; constituting a heterocyclic ring containing, or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ are nitrile, ester, acyl or amide groups, or -CO-OR ₁₇ -D or -CO-NH-R ₁₇ - represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group substituted with each group of D (wherein R ₁₇ is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group),
A ₁ and B ₁ represent polymethylene groups containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, which are , one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms attached to or inserted into the main chain, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, may contain ureido, amide or ester groups,
X ^- represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid,
A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached].

(3) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gums.

Cationic cellulose polymers may have at least one quaternary ammonium group. The cationic cellulose polymer is modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group containing at least one fatty chain (e.g., an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof). quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose may be preferred. The alkyl group carried by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 10 to 30 carbon atoms. An aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl group.

More preferably, the cationic cellulose polymer may contain at least one quaternary ammonium group containing at least one C8 _{- C30} hydrocarbon group.

Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl celluloses containing C8 _{- C30} fatty chains that may be mentioned are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM- X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and _Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 ( _C18 alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL- 60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, SoftCat SK-L, Softcat SK-M and Softcat SK-H, and products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C ₁₂ Alkyl ) and Crodacel QS (C ₁₈ alkyl).

Among these quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl celluloses, the products corresponding to the INCI name Polyquaternium-67 are preferred.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, conditioning agents may be proteins, protein hydrolysates and amino acids.

Examples of proteins and protein hydrolysates that may be mentioned are casein, collagen, procollagen, gelatin, keratin, glycoproteins, hydrolysed wheat protein, hydrolysed soy protein, hydrolysed oat protein, hydrolysed rice protein, hydrolysed Included are hydrolyzed vegetable proteins, hydrolyzed yeast proteins, and whey proteins.

Examples of amino acids that may be mentioned are arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, carnitine, cocoylsarcosine, glycine, glutamic acid, histidine, hydroxyproline, acetylhydroxyproline, isoleucine, lysine, lauroyllysine, lauroylsarcosine, methionine, phenylalanine, polylysine. , potassium cocoyl glutamate, proline, sarcosine, serine, rice amino acids, silk amino acids, wheat amino acids, sodium glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, stearoyl sarcosine, threonine, tyrosine, tryptophan, and valine.

The conditioning agent has a sufficient content to impart a conditioning effect to keratin fibers, for example, 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. % to 5% by weight.

Preservatives The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preservative.

Non-limiting examples of preservatives include ethanol, polyvinyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylhexylglycerin, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof. is mentioned.

The preservative has a content sufficient to prevent degradation due to microbial growth, e.g. % to 1% by weight.

Thickening Agent The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening agent.

Non-limiting examples of thickeners include polymeric and non-polymeric thickeners. Exemplary polymeric thickeners include various natural gums. Exemplary non-polymeric thickeners include oxyethylenated molecules, particularly ethoxylated alkyl or acyl derivatives of polyols, such as PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate. Preferably, the thickener may be a blend of propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, marketed for example under the name ANTIL® 141 LIQUID by the company EVONIK.

The thickening agent is present in a content sufficient to modify the viscosity or rheology of the composition, e.g. may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

pH Adjusting Agent The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one pH adjusting agent. Adjustment of the pH to a desired value can be carried out conventionally by adding pH adjusting agents such as organic or inorganic bases or organic or inorganic acids or salts thereof to the composition. Bases include, for example, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate or primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3 - Propanediamine, etc. are included. Organic acids include, for example, carboxylic acids, citric acid, tartaric acid and lactic acid. Inorganic acids include, for example, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid and sulfonic acid. Salts include, for example, sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.

The pH adjuster has a content sufficient to adjust the pH of the composition to a desired value, for example, 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably it can be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight.

Additives Optionally, the composition according to the invention may contain all customary adjuvants encountered in the field of compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as hydrophilic It further contains a solvent, fragrance, aromatic substance, sequestering agent such as EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and its salt, foam control agent, coloring agent, moisturizing agent, antidandruff agent, antiseborrhoeic agent, etc. can do.

The amount of additive contained in the composition according to the invention is not limited, but can be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Preparation]
Compositions according to the present invention can be manufactured by techniques common in the art.

Compositions according to the present invention are prepared by mixing at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant and then diluting the mixture with water using conventional methods to form an O/W emulsion. and the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm. Optionally, additional agents may be mixed with the composition after the emulsion is formed.

For example, a shampoo according to the present invention can be produced by mixing at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant, and diluting the mixture with water to disperse the oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It can be obtained by forming an O/W emulsion with a number average diameter of less than 200 nm and then adding the emulsion to a shampoo base.

Conventional mixing methods can be carried out using homogenizers, such as turbine mixers.

[Method and use]
The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, preferably a cleaning composition for keratin fibers, more preferably a cleaning composition for hair. More preferably, the composition according to the invention may be a shampoo or hair conditioner.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing hair, comprising the steps of applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous fibers and adding a sufficient amount of the treated keratinous fibers. and rinsing with water.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a cosmetic for keratin fibers or in a cosmetic for keratin fibers, preferably in conditioning products for hair such as shampoos and hair conditioners. .

Another aspect of the present invention is at least one oil droplet dispersed in an aqueous phase in a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, such as a shampoo or hair conditioner. may be the use of an O/W emulsion comprising a non-silicone oil with a number average diameter of the oil droplets of less than 200 nm,
It is intended to impart properties to the composition that maintain the transparency or translucency of the composition and impart a better feel to the hair, such as good moisturizing, smoothness, and combability.

The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1
Method for preparing silicone-free shampoos of the invention and comparative examples
(Example 1)
The ingredients listed in Table 1-B below were diluted with water with gentle mixing such that the number average diameter of the droplets was about 40 nm, i.e. this ultrafine O/W emulsion was less than 200 nm. An ultrafine emulsion was formed which had a droplet size of . A particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies) was used to determine the droplet size of the ultrafine emulsion. At 25° C., the continuous aqueous phase had a refractive index of 1.33 and a viscosity of 0.89 cp.

Separately, the shampoo base ingredients listed in Table 1-A were mixed. The ultrafine emulsion was then added to the shampoo base composition with gentle mixing to obtain the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention. The resulting silicone-free shampoo of the present invention maintained its clear appearance.

(Comparative example 1)
The shampoo of the comparative example was prepared by adding all the ingredients and water listed in Table 1-B (Table 1) to the shampoo base ingredients listed in Table 1-A (Table 1) to form an O/W emulsion. Prepared by obtaining a comparative silicone-free shampoo. The number average diameter of the droplets for the resulting comparative silicone-free shampoo was greater than 200 nm. The comparative silicone-free shampoo had a cloudy appearance.

evaluation
[Observation of foam volume]
A silicone-free shampoo of the invention or a comparative example was mixed with controlled hardness deionized water (10 fH) for 1 minute at maximum speed in a blender (Oster Urban Blender 350W). Foam volume was observed by measurement in a standard graduated cylinder.

[Sensory evaluation method]
The same amount of the silicone-free shampoo of the invention or of the comparative example (0.4 g of shampoo per g of hair) was applied to lightly bleached Japanese hair tresses (2.7 g) for 10 cycles and the hair was rubbed 10 times. After that, the hair tress was stroked 15 times with fingers for 30 seconds and the tress was rinsed. The rinsing procedure was the same for the inventive and comparative silicone-free shampoos.

After the tresses were dried, the amount of lather, the softness of the hair, and the sensory properties of the tresses were observed by six panelists. A fine-toothed comb and the panelists' fingers were used to assess finger combability. Sensory assessment was performed by touching and rubbing. Smoothness, moisturization, and ease of finger combing were rated from 1 to 5 (1 being poor and 5 being good).

[Measurement of wet combing force]
A 3 g tress of natural Japanese hair was treated 12 times with 1.2 g of the silicone-free shampoo of the invention or of the comparative example. The wet combing force of both hair samples was measured using a DIA-STRON MTT 175 instrument. Each hair sample was measured four times and an average value was obtained.

[Analysis of oil adhesion]
Three tresses (1 g each) were treated 10 times with a silicone-free shampoo of the invention or a comparative example and then allowed to air dry for 3 hours or more. One gram of each hair tress was extracted and the extract was analyzed by HPLC-CAD to determine the remaining amount of coco (coconut) oil on the tress. Extraction was performed by cutting the tress into 0.5 cm pieces. A precise amount of 100 mg hair segments was mixed with 1 mL of hexane. The tube was agitated in the MiniBlock for 3 hours at room temperature. The resulting extract was evaporated to dryness, redissolved in 300 μL of dichloromethane, and then inserted into the HPLC-CAD for analysis. Two measurements were performed for each of the three tress samples.

HPLA-CAD requirements are as follows:
HPLC type: Alliance 2695, WATERS+ detector,
CAD: CORONA PLUS ESA, EUROSEP, and Column: Thermo hypersil and Symmetry Shield RP18 are connected in series.

Results The results regarding oil droplet size, appearance, lather volume, sensory evaluation, wet combing force, and oil deposition are shown in Table 2.

As shown in Table 2 above, the silicone-free shampoos of the present invention maintain a clear appearance while exhibiting a more improved feel (good moisturizing, smoothness and combability) as well as higher lather amounts can be achieved. The fact that the silicone-free shampoos of the present invention have easy-to-comb properties is also supported by experimental wet comb force measurement data. Additionally, it has been demonstrated that more hot water is deposited on the hair when using the silicone-free shampoos of the present invention. This also supports that the silicone-free shampoos of the present invention can impart good moisturizing feel, smoothness and combability to the hair.

As a result, it is clear that a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers in the form of an ultra-fine O/W emulsion is not only able to maintain a transparent appearance, but also gives the hair a better feel.

Claims (11)

A shampoo composition in the form of an O/W emulsion having oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, the composition comprising a polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol and a polyoxyalkylenated C A composition comprising a polyoxyethylenated nonionic surfactant that is a sorbitol ester of ₈ - _C24 fatty acid, wherein the oil droplets comprise at least one non-silicone oil, and wherein the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm is free of silicone or contains less than 0.001% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition [provided that
A foamable composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion,
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;
(c) at least one _C6-30 alkyl (poly)glucoside type surfactant;
(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant;
(e) Compositions and microemulsions comprising water and comprising at least:
(A) 0.5 to 70% by weight of an alkanolammonium salt of an alkyl sulfate and/or an alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether sulfate having the following structure, or a mixture thereof;

here,
R ¹ =C ₈ - to C ₂₀ -carbohydrate radicals,
p = an integer from 2 to 5, where p can be different for each m;
^R2 =H, C1- to C6 _- alkyl or _C2- to _{C4 -} hydroxyalkyl,
R ³ =H, C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl or C ₂ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl,
^R4 = _C2- to _C4 -hydroxyalkyl,
m = an integer from 0 to 7;
(B) 20-95% by weight water;
(C) 0.1-20% by weight of one or more oil components;
(D) 0.1-20% by weight of one or more monohydrogen or polyhydrogen _C2- to _C24 -alcohols;
(E.1) 0.1-15% by weight of one or more UV filters; and/or
(E.2) 0.1-3% by weight of one or more anti-dandruff substances;
and
The above percentages are based on the total composition, except for microemulsions]. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the non-silicone oil is a vegetable oil. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-silicone oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the oil droplets have a number average diameter of less than 180 nm. 7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the number average diameter of the oil droplets is greater than 1 nm. 8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, having a transparent or translucent appearance. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is silicone-free. A method for preparing a shampoo composition in the form of an O/W emulsion having oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, wherein the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm, the method comprising:
- at least one non-silicone oil and a polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol and a polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant which is a sorbitol ester of a C8 _{- C24} fatty acid. A step of mixing with an agent;
- diluting the mixture with water to form an O/W emulsion;
- optionally adding to the composition at least one additional agent selected from the group consisting of surfactants, conditioning agents, preservatives, and pH modifiers, wherein the composition contains silicones. A method that does not contain or contains less than 0.001% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the composition contains
A foamable composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion,
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester;
(c) at least one _C6-30 alkyl (poly)glucoside type surfactant;
(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant;
(e) Compositions and microemulsions comprising water and comprising at least:
(A) 0.5 to 70% by weight of an alkanolammonium salt of an alkyl sulfate and/or an alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether sulfate having the following structure, or a mixture thereof;

here,
R ¹ =C ₈ - to C ₂₀ -carbohydrate radicals,
p = an integer from 2 to 5, where p can be different for each m;
^R2 =H, C1- to C6 _- alkyl or _C2- to _{C4 -} hydroxyalkyl,
R ³ =H, C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl or C ₂ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl,
^R4 = _C2- to _C4 -hydroxyalkyl,
m = an integer from 0 to 7;
(B) 20-95% by weight water;
(C) 0.1-20% by weight of one or more oil components;
(D) 0.1-20% by weight of one or more monohydrogen or polyhydrogen _C2- to _C24 -alcohols;
(E.1) 0.1-15% by weight of one or more UV filters; and/or
(E.2) 0.1-3% by weight of one or more anti-dandruff substances;
and
(except in the case of microemulsions where the above percentages are based on the overall composition). A cosmetic method for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
- applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratin fibers;
- rinsing the treated keratin fibers with a sufficient amount of water.