JP2023090301A - Use of polyphenol and plant-derived protein for treating keratin fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide means for improving the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reducing the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair and to provide means for using a component obtained derived from a plant.SOLUTION: There is provided a combination of (1) treatment with a first composition of keratin fibers, preferably hair and (2) treatment with a second composition of keratin fibers, preferably hair in order to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers and/or reduce the discoloration of keratin fibers, wherein the first composition contains at least one polyphenol, and the second composition contains at least one protein derived from a plant. The invention can, for example, improve the elasticity or resilience of keratin fibers and/or reduce the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers by using a component obtained from a plant.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to the use of a combination of polyphenols and plant-derived proteins for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair.

In the field of hair treatment, it may be desirable to strengthen or stiffen the hair, for example to improve its elasticity or elasticity. It is also preferred that the dyed hair is resistant to hair treatments such as shampooing and conditioning in order to reduce fading due to hair treatments.

JP-B-6594114 discloses the treatment of hair with pre-treatment agents containing tannic acid and post-treatment agents containing hydrolyzed keratin. According to JP-B-6594114, pretreatment of hair with tannic acid can reduce the penetration of hydrolyzed keratin into hair. However, JP-B-6594114 does not disclose or suggest that the disclosed two-step hair treatment is capable of improving hair strength or reducing fading of dyed hair.

On the other hand, in the field of cosmetics, there is a tendency to use environmentally friendly, non-animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics.

There is a need for a cosmetic hair treatment using non-animal derived ingredients that can improve hair strength and/or reduce fading of dyed hair.

JP-B-6594114 EP-A-307,626 FR-2,400,358 FR-2,400,359 U.S. Patent No. 2,528,378 U.S. Patent No. 2,781,354 U.S. Patent No. 4,874,554 U.S. Patent No. 4,137,180 French Patent Application No. 8516334 U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732 European Patent No. 0186507 European Patent Application No. 0342834

"The Flavonoids", Harborne J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pp. 1-45 Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984. CTFA Dictionary, 9th Edition, 2002 CTFA Dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993 "Handbook of Surfactants", M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984) Walter NOLL, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27-32, TODD & BYERS, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics."

It is an object of the present invention to provide a means of improving the strength of keratin fibers, such as hair, and/or reducing the fading of dyed keratin fibers, such as dyed hair, using ingredients derived from plants. It is to be.

The above object is a method for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
(1) treating keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol;
(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one plant-derived protein;
The keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above, or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) above followed by steps above. (1) treated by
can be achieved by a method.

Polyphenols may be selected from tannins.

Preferably, the polyphenol is tannic acid.

The amount of polyphenols in the first composition is 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. It may be in the range of % by mass.

The plant-derived protein is selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed pea protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, plant-derived recombinant silk protein, and mixtures thereof. good too.

Preferably, the hydrolyzed plant-derived protein is hydrolyzed bean protein.

The amount of plant-derived protein in the second composition is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.05% to 5%, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be in the range of % by mass.

At least one of the first and second compositions may have a pH of 3.0-8.0, preferably 3.5-6.5, more preferably 4.0-6.0.

The first composition or the second composition may be removed from the keratin fibers after the keratin fibers have been treated with the first composition or the second composition.

The first composition or the second composition may be retained on the keratin fibers after the keratin fibers have been treated with the first composition or the second composition.

The method according to the invention can improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers.

The method according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the fading of dyed keratin fibres.

The present invention also provides a product for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) a first composition, and
(2) comprising a second composition;
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
It also relates to products.

The present invention also provides a kit for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and
(2) comprising a second compartment comprising a second composition;
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
It also relates to kits.

The present invention also provides a
(1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition;
(2) use in combination with treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition,
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
It also relates to use.

As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that a component obtained from a plant is used as a means for improving the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reducing the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair. We have found that it is possible to provide a means to use

The present invention is therefore primarily a method of treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) treating keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol;
(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one plant-derived protein;
The keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above, or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) above followed by steps above. (1) treated by
Regarding the method.

The present invention can use plant-derived ingredients to improve the strength of keratinous fibers, such as hair, and/or reduce fading of dyed keratinous fibers, such as dyed hair.

By means of the present invention it is possible to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better stretchability and better resilience.

It is also possible by means of the present invention to provide dyed keratin fibers, such as dyed hair, which are resistant to hair treatments such as shampooing and conditioning. Therefore, the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers with less fading caused by hair treatment.

Since polyphenols and/or plant-derived proteins can be obtained from plants, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

The present invention will now be described in detail.

[Method]
One aspect of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) treating keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol;
(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one plant-derived protein;
The keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above, or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) above followed by steps above. (1) treated by
Regarding the method.

(first composition)
(Polyphenol)
The first composition contains at least one polyphenol. A single type of polyphenol may be used, or two or more different types of polyphenols may be used in combination.

The expression "polyphenol" is understood to mean a compound containing multiple phenolic hydroxyl groups. A phenolic hydroxyl group means a hydroxyl group attached to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring. Phenolic hydroxyl groups may optionally be etherified or esterified.

Polyphenols may be selected from those that have antioxidant properties.

Polyphenols may for example be selected from flavonoids. Flavonoids have the general formula (I):

(In the formula,
A'', B'', C'' and D'' independently represent H or -OH;
E'' represents H, -OH or -OX', wherein X' is

represents
F'', G'' and J'' independently of each other represent H or -OH;
X ₁ represents _-CH2- , -CO- or -CHOH-),
or formula (II):

(In the formula,
A', C' and D' independently of each other represent H, -OH or _-OCH3 ,
E' represents H, -OH or -OR', wherein R' represents a sugar residue of formula R'OH;
B', F', G' and J' independently of each other represent H, OH, _-OCH3 or _-OCH2 - _CH2 -OH)
may correspond to Among the sugars R'OH, mention may be made of rutinose.

Compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known. These can be obtained, inter alia, by the methods described in "The Flavonoids", Harborne J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pp. 1-45.

Among the flavonoids that can be used in the present invention are taxifolin, catechin, epicatechin, eriodictyol, naringenin, rutin, troxerutin, chrysin, tangeretin, luteolin, epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin gallate, quercetin, fizetin, kaempferol, galangin. , gallocatechin and epicatechin gallate.

The specific polyphenols that can be used are present in plants and can be extracted from the plants by known methods. It is possible to use extracts from tea leaves (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica). Mention may be made in particular of the green tea extract sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the company Nikko, containing inter alia flavonoids.

Among the polyphenols that can be used are also polyphenols such as carnosic acid and carnosol, which can be extracted from rosemary, by distillation followed by extraction (Chang et al., JOSC 61:6, 1984 6). or, as described in EP-A-307,626, extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol followed by extraction using a non-polar solvent such as hexane to remove odorants. It is done by

Polyphenols also have the formula (III):

(In the formula,
R ₁ '' represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r''), where Alk is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups represents linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, or C ₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl,
r' and r'' independently represent H, _C1 - _C20 alkyl, _C2 - _C6 hydroxyalkyl or _C3 - _C6 polyhydroxyalkyl, or alternatively r' and r'' forms a heterocyclic ring with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached,
r is a number including zero so that the -( _CH2 ) _r - _COR1 chain contains up to 21 carbon atoms,
R ₂ ″ and R ₃ ″ independently represent H or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl; additionally, R ₂ ″ can represent C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy)
(2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids and derivatives thereof (especially esters and amides).

The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known methods, eg analogous to those described in patents FR-2,400,358 and FR-2,400,359.

Polyphenols may also be selected from esters or amides of caffeic acid.

Among esters of caffeic acid, in particular formula (IV):

(In the formula,
Z represents a residue of C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, eg methyl, or fethol)
can be mentioned.

Among the amides of caffeic acid, in particular formula (V):

(In the formula,
Z' represents C1 _{- C8} , especially _C6 - _C8 alkyl)
can be mentioned.

Compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

Polyphenols may also be selected from tannins.

Tannins can be selected from hydrolyzed tannins, non-hydrolyzable condensed tannins, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrolyzed tannins can be selected from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

As polyphenols, preference is given to using tannic acids belonging to the class of gallotannins.

Tannic acid has the following chemical formula:

corresponds to

Polyphenols are obtained from plants. Therefore, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

The amount of polyphenols in the first composition may be 0.01 wt% or more, preferably 0.05 wt% or more, more preferably 0.1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyphenols in the first composition is 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and even more preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition. There may be.

The amount of polyphenols in the first composition is 0.01 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, Even more preferably, it may be 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass.

(water)
The first composition may contain water.

The amount of water in the first composition may be 50% or more, preferably 60% or more, more preferably 70% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the first composition may be 99.5% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the first composition is 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be a range.

(additional ingredients)
The first composition may also contain any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratinous fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.

The first composition preferably contains at least one surfactant, which will be explained later.

(pH)
The pH of the first composition can be adjusted to a desired value using alkaline and/or acidic agents commonly used in the cosmetic field.

The pH of the first composition may be 3.0-7.0, preferably 3.5-6.5, more preferably 4.0-6.0.

The alkaline agent may be used in an amount of 0.001% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. good.

Acidic agents may be used in amounts ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. good.

(second composition)
(Plant-derived protein)
The second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein. A single type of plant-derived protein may be used, or two or more different types of plant-derived protein may be used in combination.

A plant-derived protein may be a polypeptide obtainable from plants such as soybean, pea, wheat, rice, maize and sesame. Proteins may be hydrolyzed. Hydrolysis may be carried out by conventionally known methods, for example using acids or enzymes. A plant-derived protein may also be a polypeptide obtainable through industrial biotechnology methods such as genetic recombination and fermentation of natural potential carbon sources such as corn starch.

The plant-derived protein is selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed pea protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, plant-derived recombinant silk protein, and mixtures thereof. good too.

Preferably, the plant-derived protein is hydrolyzed bean protein.

Proteins may contain acidic amino acids such as aspartic acid and glutamic acid, and basic amino acids such as arginine, histidine and lysine.

Hydrolyzed pea protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of peas (Pisum sativum L). As hydrolyzed pea protein, Promois® WJ or Promois (R) manufactured by Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of pea protein or powdered pea protein, respectively, having an average molecular weight of about 500. A commercially available product such as WJ-SP may also be used. Hydrolyzed soy protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of soybean (Glycine max). As hydrolyzed soy protein, Promois® WS or Promois® from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of soy protein or a powdered soy protein, respectively, having an average molecular weight of about 700 Commercially available products such as WS-HSP may also be used. Hydrolyzed wheat proteins can be prepared by hydrolysis of wheat (Triticum). As a hydrolyzed wheat protein, Promois® WG or Promois® from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of wheat protein or a powdered wheat protein, respectively, having an average molecular weight of about 700 Commercially available products such as WG-SP may also be used. Hydrolyzed rice protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of rice (Oryza sativa). As hydrolyzed rice protein, Promois® WR or Promois® from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of rice protein or a powdered rice protein, respectively, having an average molecular weight of about 400 Commercially available products such as WR-SP may also be used. As a mixture of hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, and hydrolyzed soy protein, commercial products such as Keraplant from TRI-K, which is an aqueous solution of wheat, corn, and soy protein may be used. . The plant-derived silk may be a commercially available product such as Givaudan's Silkgel Neo®, which is an aqueous gel silk produced by industrial biotechnology methods using fermentation.

Since the protein is obtained from plants, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

The amount of plant-derived protein in the second composition may be 0.01% or more, preferably 0.05% or more, more preferably 0.1% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of plant-derived protein in the second composition is 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and even more preferably 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. % or less.

The amount of plant-derived protein in the second composition is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.05% to 5%, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. % by weight, even more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight.

(water)
The second composition may contain water.

The amount of water in the second composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the second composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the second composition is 50% to 99%, preferably 60% to 95%, more preferably 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be a range.

(additional ingredient)
The second composition may also contain any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratinous fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.

The second composition preferably contains at least one silicone and/or at least one oil as described below.

(pH)
The pH of the second composition can be adjusted to a desired value using alkaline and/or acidic agents commonly used in the cosmetic field.

The pH of the second composition may be 3.0-8.0, preferably 3.5-6.5, more preferably 4.0-6.0.

The alkaline agent may be used in an amount of 0.001% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. good.

Acidic agents may be used in amounts ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. good.

(optional ingredient)
The first composition and/or the second composition may also comprise at least one optional ingredient conventionally used in cosmetics for keratinous fibers such as hair.

Examples of optional ingredients are described below.

(Surfactant)
The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one surfactant.

Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. Surfactants used in the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

When more than one surfactant is used, they may be the same or different.

Anionic surfactant:
According to the invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactants include ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl sulfates, ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl ether sulfates, ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates; ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl sulfonates, ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl amide sulfonates, ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, and paraffin sulfonates; ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl phosphates; ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, and ( _C6 - _C30 ) ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl sulfosuccinates; ( _C6 -C30) alkyl sulfoacetates; ( _C6 - _C24 ) acyl sarcosinates; ( _C6 - _C24 ) acyl glutamates; (C6- _C30 ) alkyl polyglycosides. Carboxyl ether; ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinate; ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl sulfosuccinamate; ( _C6 - _C24 ) acyl isethionate; N-( _C6 - _C24) C6 _{- C30} fatty acid salts; coconut oil salts or hydrogenated coconut oil salts; ( _C8 - _C20 ) acyl lactylates; ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids salts; polyoxyalkylenated ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated ( _C6 - _C30 ) alkyl It is preferably selected from the group consisting of amide ether carboxylates.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from salts of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether carboxylates.

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, such as alkali metal (eg, sodium) salts; alkaline earth metal (eg, magnesium) salts; ammonium salts; amine salts; and aminoalcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, the anionic surfactant may be in the acid form.

Amphoteric surfactant:
According to the invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives. , wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (eg carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate) chain.

Amphoteric surfactants can preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants include alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, specifically ( _C8 - _C24 )alkylbetaines, ( _C8 - _C24 ) It is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from ( _C8 - _C24 )alkylbetaines, ( _C8 - _C24 )alkylamido( _C1 - _C8 )alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines. selected.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, alone or as mixtures, in the CTFA Dictionary, 9th Edition, 2002; Contains compounds classified as palmitamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, oleamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine .

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, especially cocobetaines and cocamidopropylbetaines.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol. They are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxyglycinates in the CTFA Dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference. Classified under the name of carboxypropionates, their respective structures are as follows:
_R1 - _{CONHCH2CH2 -} N ⁺ ( _R2 )( _R3 )( _CH2COO- ⁾
(In the formula,
R ₁ represents an alkyl, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil,
R ₂ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group)
and
_R1' - _{CONHCH2CH2 -} N(B)(C)
(In the formula,
B _{represents -CH2CH2OX} ',
C represents -( _CH2 ) _z -Y' (wherein z = 1 or 2),
X' represents a _{-CH2CH2 -} COOH group, _-CH2 -COOZ', _{-CH2CH2 -} COOH, _{-CH2CH2 -} COOZ' or a hydrogen atom;
Y' represents a -COOH group, -COOZ' group, _-CH2- CHOH- _SO3Z ' group or _-CH2- CHOH- _SO3H group,
Z' represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as a sodium ion, an ammonium ion, or an ion generated from an organic amine;
R ₁ ' is an alkyl group of the acid R ₁ '-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group such as a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, a C ₁₇ alkyl group and its isoforms, or unsaturated C ₁₇ groups).

Amphoteric surfactants include ( _C8 - _C24 ) alkyl amphodiacetates, ( _C8 - _C24 ) alkyl amphodiacetates, ( _C8 - _C24 ) alkyl amphodiacetates and ( _C8 - _C24 ) amphodiacetates. It is preferably selected from alkyl propionates.

These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993 under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate , disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Cationic surfactant:
According to the invention, the type of cationic surfactant is not limited. the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated; can be done.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
of the following general formula (I):

(In the formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and contain from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. , linear and branched aliphatic radicals. Aliphatic groups include, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate. and hydroxyalkyl groups _; ^and aromatic groups such as aryl and _alkylaryl ; sulfonate or alkylaryl sulfonate);
Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (II):

(In the formula,
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives,
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
_R7 is selected from _C1 - _C4 alkyl groups,
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkylsulfonates and alkylarylsulfonates). In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, and R ₇ is methyl. Yes and _R8 is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83, sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by Witco. (CTFA 1997);
Diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (III):

(In the formula,
R ₉ is selected from aliphatic groups containing 16-30 carbon atoms,
R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ group;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms. ,
X ^- is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethylsulfates and methylsulfates). Examples of such diquaternary ammonium salts are FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium-89) from FINETEX, or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75) from FINETEX;
Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functionality, such as those of formula (IV) below:

(In the formula,
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups, and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups and dihydroxyalkyl groups;
_R23 is
The following groups:

selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₇ and hydrogen;
_R25 is
The following groups:

selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ and hydrogen;
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals,
r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, is 0 or 1, r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;
y is selected from integers ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, provided that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R ₂₃ is R ₂₇ and z is 0, _R25 indicates _R29 ). R ₂₂ can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from linear alkyl groups. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl groups, eg selected from methyl and ethyl groups. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1-10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₇ , it may be long-chain and contain 12-22 carbon atoms or it may be short-chain and contain 1-3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₉ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ - It is selected from C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, such as linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z are the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to one. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, eg equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ can be selected, for example, from halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates such as methylsulphate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and any other ammonium compatible anions containing ester functional groups may be used in the present invention. is another non-limiting example of In one embodiment the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride and methylsulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salt of formula (IV) can be used, wherein
R ₂₂ is selected from methyl and ethyl groups,
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s and t are equal to 2,
_R23 is
The following groups:

selected from methyl groups, ethyl groups, and _C14 - _C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and hydrogen;
_R25 is
The following groups:

and hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example It is selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and Methyl Sulfate, Monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium Chloride and Methyl Sulfate, Triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium Chloride and Methyl Sulfate, Monoacyloxyethyl-Hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium Chloride and Methyl Sulfate Included are sulfates, as well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14-18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are, for example, the direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine to fatty acids or to mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin. or by transesterifying their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using alkylating agents, which include alkyl halides such as methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate; Methyl sulfonate: selected from methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are known, for example, by Cognis under the name Dehyquart®, by Stepan under the name Stepanquat®, by Ceca under the name Noxamium® and by Rewo-Goldschmidt under the name Rewoquat®. (Registered Trademark) WE 18”.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in accordance with the present invention include those containing at least one ester functionality as described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the present invention, those corresponding to formula (I) are, for example, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides (wherein alkyl groups contain about 12-22 carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the Company.

According to one embodiment, cationic surfactants that may be used in the present invention are quaternary ammonium salts such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, selected from behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine;

Nonionic surfactant:
Nonionic surfactants are well known compounds in themselves or in themselves (e.g. in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-1991). See page 178). Thus, nonionic surfactants can be selected, for example, from alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, such as having at least one fatty chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30 is possible. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2-30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin _; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; ₂₄ ) Polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of alkyl polyglycosides; N-( _C6 - _C24 )alkylglucamine derivatives; ( _C10 - _C14 )alkylamine oxides or N-( _C10 - _C14 )acyls Amine oxides such as aminopropylmorpholine oxide; and mixtures thereof may also be mentioned without limitation.

The nonionic surfactant can preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated ( _C8 - _C24 ) alkylphenols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated _C8 - _C30 alcohols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated _C8 - _C30 amides,
Esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched _C8 - _C30 acids with polyalkylene glycols,
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched _C8 - _C30 acids with sorbitol,
saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils;
Especially condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide, alone or as a mixture.

The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols), polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol of fatty acids). esters), and mixtures of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be mentioned are ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly from 2 to containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names laureth-2 to laureth-20), ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names beheneth-2 to beheneth-20), ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteareth-2 to ceteareth-30), ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteth-2 to ceteth-30), stearyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names steareth-2 to steareth-20), isostearyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, particularly those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-50), and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units. PEG-9 to PEG-50 Laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 Laurate to PEG-50 Laurate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 Palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 Palmitate to PEG-50 Palmitate) , PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate, PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one fatty alcohol containing 2 to 9 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty alcohol containing 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated _C8 - _C40 alcohols of the formula:
RO-[ _CH2 -CH( _CH2OH )-O] _m -H or RO-[CH( _CH2OH ) _-CH2O ] _m -H
(Wherein R represents a linear or branched _C8 - _C40 , preferably _C8 - _C30 alkyl or alkenyl group; m ranges from 1 to 30, preferably from 1.5 to 10; number)
corresponds to

Examples of suitable compounds according to the invention are lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name : polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

In the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols. means good.

Among monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, using _C8 / _C10 alcohol containing 1 mol glycerol, _C10 / _C12 alcohol containing 1 mol glycerol and _C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol preferably.

Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated _C8 - _C40 fatty esters have the formula:
R'O-[ _CH2 -CH( _CH2OR ''')-O] _m -R'' or R'O-[CH( _CH2OR ''')- _CH2O ] _m -R''
(wherein each of R', R'' and R''' is independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched _C8 - _C40 , preferably _C8 - _C30 alkyl-CO - or an alkenyl-CO- group, with the proviso that at least one of R', R'' and R''' is not a hydrogen atom and m is in the range 1-30, preferably 1.5-10 number)
can correspond to

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units. PEG-9 to PEG-50 Laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 Laurate to PEG-50 Laurate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 Palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 Palmitate to PEG-50 Palmitate) , PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate, PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 8-18. HLB is the ratio between hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties in a molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

The amount of surfactant in the composition may be 1 wt% or more, preferably 5 wt% or more, more preferably 10 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of surfactant in the composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of surfactant in the composition is 1% to 35%, preferably 5% to 30%, more preferably 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. may

(silicone)
The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one silicone. A single type of silicone may be used, but two or more different types of silicone may also be used in combination.

Silicones include polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes; and poly(oxyalkylene) moieties, amine or amino moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxylated moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, It may be selected from the group consisting of organically modified polysiloxanes containing at least one functional group moiety selected from acid moieties, hydroxyacylamino moieties, acrylic moieties, polyamine moieties and oxazoline moieties, and silicone-based celluloses.

Silicones suitable for the present invention include silicones optionally modified with organic moieties, having viscosities in the range of 5×10 ⁻⁶ to 2.5 m ² /s at 25° C., such as 1×10 ⁻⁵ to 1 m ² /s. cyclic, linear and branched silicones, volatile and non-volatile, which are known in the art.

Silicones that may be used in the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition, for example polyorganosiloxanes, which are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form selected from fluids, waxes, resins, and rubbers.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, in Walter NOLL, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones may be selected from those with boiling points in the range 60°C to 260°C, such as:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, for example 4 to 5, silicon atoms; Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA. VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by the company UNION CARBIDE and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name SILBIONE® 70045 V5, and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicone may also be used, for example that marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by the company DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE of the formula below.

During the ceremony,

Combinations of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and silicon-derived organic compounds may also be used, a (50/50) mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane, and the like; and
(ii) A linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity at 25° C. of 5×10 ⁻⁶ m ² /s or less. A non-limiting example of such a compound is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, TODD & BYERS, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

In at least one embodiment, silicones include polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional moieties as described herein above. non-volatile silicones.

According to another embodiment, the silicone is selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, known under the trade name Dimethicone. The viscosities of these silicones are measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products for such polydialkylsiloxanes include:
SILBIONE® and MIRASIL® solutions of the 47 and 70 047 series marketed by the company RHODIA, for example 70 047 solution V 500 000,
The MIRASIL® series of fluids marketed by RHODIA,
200 series fluids marketed by DOW CORNING, e.g. DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2/s;
GENERAL ELECTRIC VISCASIL® fluids, and some fluids from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series (e.g. SF 96 and SF 18), and
Fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by the company DOW CORNING.

Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, such as those sold under the tradename Dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series fluids marketed by RHODIA.

Products belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes and marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801" are polydialkyl (C _{1 -C 20} ) siloxanes, which are also can be used.

A polydimethylsiloxane wax may also be used.

Suitable silicone gums for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes, alone or as mixtures in solvents, with number average molecular weights in the high range of 200,000 to 1,000,000. The solvent can be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) fluids, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) fluids, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gums may also be selected from amodimethicone (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the references DC929 Emulsion and DC939 Emulsion.

Combinations of silicones such as the following may also be used, according to at least one embodiment:
mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethiconols (CTFA) hydroxylated at the chain ends and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), for example the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING;
Polydimethylsiloxane rubber and cyclic silicones, such as SF1214 Silicone Fluid, a product sold by GENERAL ELECTRIC, dissolved in SF1202 Silicone Fluid, which corresponds to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and has a number average molecular weight of 500,000. corresponding to dimethicone, which is SF 30 rubber);
A mixture of two PDMS with different viscosities, eg a mixture of PDMS rubber and a PDMS liquid, eg the product SF 1236 marketed by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. Product SF 1236 is a mixture of SE 30 rubber as defined above with a viscosity of 20 m ² /s and SF 96 fluid with a viscosity of 5×10 ⁻⁶ m ² /s. Such a product may contain 15% SE 30 rubber and 85% SF 96 fluid.

Organopolysiloxane resins suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, crosslinked siloxane systems containing at least one of the following units:
R ₂ SiO _2/2 , R ₃ SiO _1/2 , RSiO _3/2 , and SiO _4/2 , where R is an alkyl group containing 1-16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group such as a methyl group.

These resins include, for example, the products marketed under the trade name "DOW CORNING 593", which are dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structured silicones, and the products marketed under the trade names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" from GENERAL ELECTRIC. What is done is mentioned.

Trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins, such as those marketed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034, and X21-5037, may also be used.

^{Polyalkylaryl} siloxanes are polydimethyl/ ^methylphenyl siloxanes, ^linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl It can be selected from siloxanes.

Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:
70 641 series of SILBIONE® fluids from RHODIA, 70 633 and 763 series of RHODORSIL® fluids from RHODIA,
Phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed by the DOW CORNING company under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID,
PK series silicones by BAYER, e.g. PK20 products,
PN series, PH series silicones by BAYER, e.g. PN1000 and PH1000 products, and
Some SF series fluids by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organomodified silicones that can be used in the present invention include silicones such as those previously defined and containing at least one organofunctional moiety linked by a hydrocarbon group within their structure, including: Not limited.

Organomodified silicones can include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes including:
Polyorganosiloxanes containing polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties, optionally containing _C6 - _C24 alkyl moieties, such as those marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade names DC 1248 and DC Q2-5220. and SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE and under the trade name Q2 5200 by DOW CORNING (C ₁₂ ) products called alkyl-methicone copolyols;
Polyorganosiloxanes containing optionally substituted amine moieties, such as the products marketed under the trade names GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the Q2 8220, DOW CORNING 929 and 939 trademarks by DOW CORNING. products marketed under the name Substituted amine moieties may be selected, for example, from amino C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl moieties. Aminosilicones may have additional C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy functional groups.
Polyorganosiloxanes containing alkoxylated moieties, such as the products marketed under the trade names "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by the company SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
Polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxylated moieties, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functional groups, such as those described in French Patent Application FR 8516334;
Polyorganosiloxanes containing acyloxyalkyl moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732;
Polyorganosiloxanes containing carboxylic acid type anionic moieties, such as the products marketed by Chisso Corporation and described in EP 0186507, and polyorganosiloxanes containing carboxylalkyl anionic moieties, such as Shin-Etsu those present in the X-22-3701E product marketed by Kagaku Kogyo Co.; polyorganosiloxanes containing 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonates; and polyorganosiloxanes containing 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfonates, e.g. Products marketed under the trade names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255";
Polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0342834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING;
polyorganosiloxanes containing acrylic moieties, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by the company 3M;
Polyorganosiloxanes containing polyamine moieties, as well as oxazoline moieties

silicones that can be used in the present invention have one or two oxazoline groups, such as poly(2-methyloxazoline-b-dimethylsiloxane-b-2-methyloxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl- 2-oxazoline-dimethylsiloxane). Products marketed by Kao Corporation under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 may also be used.

Suitable silicone-based celluloses that may be used in the present invention include products marketed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

Preferably, the silicone is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, amodimethicone (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of silicone in the composition may be 0.01 wt% or more, preferably 0.05 wt% or more, more preferably 0.1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of silicone in the composition may be 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of silicone in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15%, preferably from 0.05% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. good.

(oil)
The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one oil. A single type of oil may be used, but a combination of two or more different types of oil may also be used.

As used herein, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at room temperature (25° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The oils may be hydrocarbon oils, non-polar oils such as silicone oils, vegetable or animal oils, and polar oils such as ester or ether oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, Mention may be made of soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, and the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is 10 or more.

Preferably, in esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters are derived is branched.

Among monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, Mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or Esters with pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

The following may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroylsarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis( 2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, citric acid They are trioleyl acid, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon-based compound containing some alcohol functional group, with or without an aldehyde or ketone functional group, containing at least 4 carbon atoms. It reminds me of These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives. , an example is methyl glucose.

Sugar esters of fatty acids are inter alia a group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. You can choose from These compounds, when unsaturated, can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, coconut fatty acid esters, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonic acid esters. Esters, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid, and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, among others.

More particularly, mono- and diesters, especially monooleate or dioleate esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and An oleostearate is used.

An example that may be mentioned is methyl glucose dioleate, the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol.

Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexanoate. -ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, laurin Hexyl acid, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate , and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(capric/caprylic) glyceryl and Mention may be made of tri(capric/caprylic/linolenic)glyceryl.

Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc., cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc., and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organically modified. Organomodified silicones that can be used in the present invention are silicone oils that contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups as defined above and bound via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

If they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those with a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms; These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold inter alia under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by the company Rhodia, the company Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials. dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane of the formula, for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2 Mixtures with ,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane may also be mentioned.
(ii) a linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity at 25° C. of 5×10 ⁻⁶ m ² /s or less; An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25° C. according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These nonvolatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing predominantly trimethylsilyl end groups may be mentioned.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes the following commercial products may be mentioned without limitation:
- the 47 and 70 047 series of Silbione® oils sold by the company Rhodia or Mirasil® oils, such as the 70 047 V 500 000 oil;
- Mirasil® series oils marketed by Rhodia;
- 200 series oils from Dow Corning, e.g. DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known by the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oils.

Phenyl silicone oils can be selected from phenyl silicones of the formula:

(In the formula,
R ₁ to R ₁₀ are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably a C ₁ to C ₁₂ hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,
m, n, p, and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive;
However, the sum of n+m+q is other than 0).

Examples that may be mentioned are products marketed under the following names:
- 70 641 series of Silbione® oils manufactured by Rhodia;
- Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia;
- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, an oil manufactured by Dow Corning;
- PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20;
- Certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Phenyl trimethicone (wherein R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl, p, q, and n=0 and m=1) is preferred as the phenyl silicone oil.

Organically modified liquid silicones may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
- _C6 - _C16 lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. (examples that may be mentioned are hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane), and
- straight or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene; , isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

The term "fat" in fatty alcohols means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus alcohols with 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

Fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R contains 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, saturated and unsaturated. saturated, linear and branched groups). In at least one embodiment, R can be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl groups and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachid. Nyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

Preferably the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Accordingly, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, more preferably linear It can be selected from saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alcohols, linear or branched.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" is used herein to mean alcohols having long aliphatic saturated carbon chains. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any linear or branched saturated _C6 - _C30 fatty alcohol. Among the linear or branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can preferably be used. Any linear or branched saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol can more preferably be used. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used even more preferably.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition of the invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

The oil may be selected from non-polar or polar oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, even more preferably isododecane, isohexadecane, dimethicone, diisopropyl sebacate and mixtures thereof. .

The amount of oil in the composition may be 0.01% or more, preferably 0.05% or more, more preferably 0.1% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of oil in the composition may be 25% or less, preferably 20% or less, more preferably 15% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of oil in the composition may be from 0.01% to 25%, preferably from 0.05% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. good.

(other optional ingredients)
The first composition and/or the second composition may also comprise any optional ingredient conventionally used in cosmetics for keratinous fibers such as hair, e.g. anionic, nonionic, cationic , amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, thickeners, sequestrants, fragrances, dispersants, acid agents, alkali agents, film formers, ceramides, preservatives and opacifiers. may contain.

{preparation}
Each of the first and second compositions can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients described above and, optionally, the optional ingredients described above.

The method and means of mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional methods and means may be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients described above to prepare the first and second compositions.

{form}
The first composition and/or the second composition may be in the form of cosmetic compositions, preferably shampoo and hair care compositions, more preferably shampoos and conditioners.

The composition according to the invention may be of the leave-on type or the rinse-off type. Leave-on type compositions do not wash off after being applied on keratin fibers. Rinse-off type compositions are washed off after being used on keratin fibers.

It is preferred that the first composition applied onto the keratin fibers is the shampoo and the second composition applied onto the keratin fibers is the conditioner.

{treatment process}
According to the invention, keratinous fibers, such as hair, are treated with the first and second compositions.

The method according to the invention comprises:
(1) treating keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol;
(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one plant-derived protein;
The keratin fibers are treated by step (1) followed by step (2), or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) followed by step (1).

In other words, the method according to the invention
(a) treating keratin fibers first with a first composition and then with a second composition, or
(b) can be carried out by treating the keratin fibers first with the second composition and then with the first composition.

The first composition or the second composition may be removed from the keratin fibers after the keratin fibers have been treated with the first composition or the second composition.

Therefore, optionally between the step of treating the keratin fibers with the first composition (of (a) above) and the step of treating the keratin fibers with the second composition, or A step of rinsing can be performed between the step of)) treating the keratinous fibers with the second composition and treating the keratinous fibers with the first composition. After the step of rinsing, prior to the next step of treating the keratin fibers with the second composition (above (a)) or the step of treating the keratin fibers with the first composition (above (b)) , a step of drying may be carried out.

On the other hand, the first composition or the second composition treats keratin fibers with the first composition (in (a) above) or with the second composition (in (b) above), followed by keratin It may be retained on the fibers.

A rinsing step may or may not be performed after steps (a) and (b) above. When a rinsing step is performed, a drying step may be performed after the rinsing step, if necessary.

The method according to the invention is not a permanent reshape method such as permanent waving or straightening for keratin fibers.

The keratin fibers coated with each of the first and second compositions can be left for the appropriate amount of time required to treat the keratin fibers. The length of time for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 20 minutes, more preferably from 1 minute to 10 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for treatment according to the invention may be 3-60 minutes, preferably 3-40 minutes, more preferably 3-20 minutes.

Keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratin fibers are heated to 25° C. to 65° C., preferably 30° C. to 60° C., before and/or during and/or after the step of applying each of the first and second compositions to the keratin fibers. More preferably, it can be heated at 35°C to 55°C, still more preferably at 40°C to 50°C.

The above method is preferably for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers, for example for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers such as hair other than permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.

The method according to the invention can use plant-derived ingredients to improve the strength of keratinous fibers, such as hair, and/or reduce the fading of dyed keratinous fibers, such as dyed hair.

With the method according to the invention it is possible to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness. Thus, the method according to the invention can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better stretchability and better elasticity.

The method according to the invention also makes it possible to provide dyed keratin fibers, such as dyed hair, which are resistant to hair treatments such as shampooing and conditioning. Thus, the method according to the present invention provides dyed keratin fibers with reduced discoloration compared to methods using a first composition that does not contain polyphenols and a second composition that does not contain plant-derived proteins. can be done.

[Products, kits and uses]
The present invention also provides a product for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) a first composition, and
(2) comprising a second composition;
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
It also relates to products.

The above explanations regarding the polyphenols and plant-derived proteins and the first and second compositions used by the method according to the invention are applicable to those for the product according to the invention.

The product is preferably a cosmetic, more preferably a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers such as hair.

The present invention also provides a kit for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and
(2) comprising a second compartment comprising a second composition;
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
It also relates to kits.

The above descriptions regarding the polyphenols and plant-derived proteins and the first and second compositions used by the method according to the invention can be applied to those for the kit according to the invention.

Kits according to the present invention can be prepared by those skilled in the art based on conventional packaging techniques. A kit according to the invention comprises first and second compartments, each of which individually contains the first and second compositions, respectively. The first and second compartments may be provided with distribution or evacuation means, such as pumps. The first and second compartments may be separately contained in two separate containers. Alternatively, the first and second compartments may be within a single container.

In one embodiment, for example
(a) dispensing or expelling the first composition from the first compartment;
(b) applying the first composition to the keratin fibers;
(c) dispensing or expelling the second composition from the second compartment; and
(d) The kit can be used by applying the second composition to keratin fibers already treated with the first composition.

Optionally, between step (b) above and step (c) above and/or step (d) above, it is possible to perform a rinsing step with or without a drying step. be.

In another embodiment, for example,
(a') dispensing or expelling the second composition from the second compartment;
(b') applying the second composition to the keratin fibers;
(c') dispensing or expelling the first composition from the first compartment; and
(d') The kit can be used by applying the first composition to keratin fibers already treated with the second composition.

Optionally, between step (b') above and step (c') above and/or after step (d') above, a rinsing step with or without a drying step is carried out. It is possible to

The present invention also provides a
(1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition;
(2) use in combination with treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition,
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
It also relates to use.

The above explanations regarding the polyphenols and plant-derived proteins and the first and second compositions used by the method according to the invention are applicable to those for use according to the invention.

The use according to the invention is to improve the strength or hardness of keratinous fibers or to reduce discoloration of keratinous fibers,
(1) treatment of keratin fibers with at least one polyphenol;
(2) can be based on combination with treatment of keratin fibers with at least one protein of plant origin;

Combinations of the above may, for example, improve the elasticity or elasticity of keratinous fibers such as hair and/or reduce discoloration of keratinous fibers such as hair due to several activities such as washing and conditioning the keratinous fibers. can be done.

The above treatment steps (1) and (2) are performed separately and sequentially. In other words, steps (1) and (2) above are not performed simultaneously.

The order of treatment steps (1) and (2) is not critical. Thus, treatment step (1) may be performed first, followed by treatment step (2). Alternatively, treatment step (2) may be performed first, followed by treatment step (1).

The above products, kits and uses are preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratinous fibers, for example cosmetic treatments of keratinous fibers other than permanent reshaping of keratinous fibers such as hair.

The above products, kits and uses according to the present invention use plant-derived ingredients to improve the strength or hardness of keratinous fibers such as hair and/or to reduce fading of dyed keratinous fibers such as dyed hair. can do.

The products, kits and uses according to the invention make it possible to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness. Therefore, they can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better stretchability and better resilience.

Products, kits and uses according to the present invention can also provide dyed keratin fibers, such as dyed hair, that are resistant to hair treatments such as shampooing and conditioning. Thus, they can provide dyed keratin fibers with reduced discoloration compared to methods using a first composition that does not contain polyphenols and a second composition that does not contain plant-derived proteins.

The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

Composition 1
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 1", was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

Composition 2
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 2", was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of composition 2 was 5.6.

Composition 3
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 3," was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of composition 3 was 5.5.

Composition 4
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 4," was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 4. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of composition 4 was 6.0.

Composition 5
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 5," was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 5. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of Composition 5 was 5.6.

composition 6
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 6," was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 6. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of Composition 6 was 5.7.

composition 7
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 7," was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 7. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of composition 7 was 5.2.

Composition 8
[Preparation]
A composition, hereinafter referred to as "Composition 8," was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 8. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

The pH of composition 8 was 7.6.

Hair treatment test (Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12)
Hair swatches were treated according to the protocol according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12 shown in Table 9.

In Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12, tress swatches (1 g, 27 cm) with the same properties were used.

The columns "Application step 1" and "Application step 2" in Table 9 indicate which compositions were applied to the tress swatches in the first and second steps of the hair treatment, respectively. An empty column means that the composition was not applied to the tress swatch.

In each of application step 1 and application step 2, the composition was applied to the tress swatch at a ratio of 1 g/g hair under ambient conditions (25°C, 40% relative humidity).

The "After Step 1/Before Step 2" column in Table 9 shows the treatment of the tress swatches during the period between application steps 1 and 2 (30 minutes). The term "rinse off" in Table 9 means that the composition on the tress swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term "dryer dried" in Table 9 means that the tress swatches were dried by blowing air. The term "leave on" in Table 9 means that the composition on the tress swatch was not removed after the composition was applied to the tress swatch. The term "layered" in Table 9 means that the composition was layered on the tress swatch.

The "After Step 2" column in Table 9 shows the treatment for the tress swatches after application step 2. The term "rinse off" in Table 9 means that the composition on the tress swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term "dryer dried" in Table 9 means that the tress swatches were dried by blowing air. The term "leave on" in Table 9 means that the composition on the tress swatch was not removed after the composition was applied to the tress swatch.

[evaluation]
In order to evaluate the strength (hardness) of the hair bundle samples after the hair treatment according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12, a sensory test was conducted by five panelists. The relative strength of the hair fibers was scored according to the following criteria, by comparison with a tress swatch without any hair treatment, which was given a score of 3 as a control (reference).
5: Much stronger than the intensity of untreated hair swatches
4: Stronger than the strength of the untreated hair bundle sample
3: Same strength as the untreated hair swatch
2: weaker than the strength of the untreated hair bundle sample
1: Much weaker than the strength of the untreated hair swatch

Scores were averaged. A higher score indicates a hair fiber perceived as stronger. The results are shown in Tables 10-12 below.

Table 10 shows the condition that the composition finally applied to the tress swatch is washed off from the tress swatch, and the condition that if there is an application step 2, rinsing is performed between the application step 1 and the application step 2. Figure 2 shows the results of sensory evaluation of treated tress swatches.

Graded hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Examples 1 and 2) has the same level of intensity as hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed keratin (Comparative Examples 4 and 5). of hair fibers were realized.

Table 10 also shows that hair treatment with tannic acid alone (Comparative Example 1) or hydrolyzed pea protein alone (Comparative Example 2) was less than graded hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Example 1 or Example 1). It also shows that it did not achieve the level of hair strength provided by 2).

Table 11 shows hair treated under conditions where the final composition applied to the tress swatches was washed off the tress swatches and the rinsing was not performed between application steps 1 and 2. The result of the sensory evaluation of bundle samples is shown.

Graded hair treatments with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Examples 3 and 4) gave hair at similar intensity levels as hair treatments with tannic acid and hydrolyzed keratin (Comparative Examples 6 and 7). made the fiber.

Table 12 shows the condition that the composition finally applied to the tress swatch is not washed off from the tress swatch, and that if there is an application step 2, rinsing is performed between the application step 1 and the application step 2. Fig. 2 shows results of sensory evaluation of hair tress swatches treated under conditions.

Graded hair treatments with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Examples 5 and 6) gave hair at similar intensity levels as hair treatments with tannic acid and hydrolyzed keratin (Comparative Examples 8 and 9). made the fiber.

Table 12 also shows that hair treatment with tannic acid alone (Comparative Example 10) or hydrolyzed pea protein alone (Comparative Example 11) was less than graded hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Example 5 or Example 11). It also shows that it did not achieve the level of hair strength provided by 6).

Hair treatment test (Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17)
Hair swatches were treated according to the protocol according to Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17 shown in Table 13.

In Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17, tress swatches (1 g, 27 cm) with the same properties were used.

The columns "Application step 1" and "Application step 2" in Table 13 indicate which compositions were applied to the tress swatches in the first and second steps of the hair treatment, respectively. An empty column means that the composition was not applied to the tress swatch.

In each of application step 1 and application step 2, the composition was applied to the tress swatch at a ratio of 1 g/g hair under ambient conditions (25°C, 40% relative humidity).

The "After Step 1/Before Step 2" column in Table 13 shows the treatment of the tress swatches during the period between application steps 1 and 2 (30 minutes). The term "rinse off" in Table 13 means that the composition on the tress swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term "dryer dried" in Table 13 means that the tress swatches were dried by blowing air. The term "leave on" in Table 13 means that the composition on the tress swatch was not removed after the composition was applied to the tress swatch. The term "layered" in Table 13 means that the composition was layered on the tress swatch.

The "After Step 2" column in Table 13 shows the treatment for the tress swatches after application step 2. The term "rinse off" in Table 13 means that the composition on the tress swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term "dryer dried" in Table 13 means that the tress swatches were dried by blowing air. The term "leave on" in Table 13 means that the composition on the tress swatch was not removed after the composition was applied to the tress swatch.

[evaluation]
In order to evaluate the strength (hardness) of the hair bundle samples after the hair treatment according to Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17, a sensory test was conducted by five panelists. The relative strength of the hair fibers was scored according to the following criteria, by comparison with a tress swatch without any hair treatment, which was given a score of 3 as a control (reference).
5: Much stronger than the intensity of untreated hair swatches
4: Stronger than the strength of the untreated hair bundle sample
3: Same strength as the untreated hair swatch
2: weaker than the strength of the untreated hair bundle sample
1: Much weaker than the strength of the untreated hair swatch

Scores were averaged. A higher score indicates a hair fiber perceived as stronger. The results are shown in Table 14 below.

Table 14 shows the condition that the composition finally applied to the hair tress is washed off from the tress swatch, and that if there is an application step 2, rinsing is performed between the application step 1 and the application step 2. Figure 2 shows the results of sensory evaluation of treated tress swatches.

Tannic Acid and Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Example 7), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (Example 8), Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (Example 9), and Mixtures of Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Example 10), and graded hair treatment with silk (Example 11) gave equal or better levels of hair strength to hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Example 1). made the fiber.

Table 14 also shows hair treatments with protein alone (Comparative Example 14, Comparative Example 15, Comparative Example 16, Comparative Example 17, or Comparative Example 18), as was the case with hydrolyzed pea protein (Tables 10 and 12). did not achieve the level of hair strength provided by the graded hair treatment with tannic acid and protein (Example 7, Example 8, Example 9, Example 10, or Example 11).

Shampoo compositions 1 and 2
[Preparation]
Compositions hereinafter referred to as "Shampoo Composition 1" and "Shampoo Composition 2" were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 15. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

Conditioner compositions 1 and 2
[Preparation]
Compositions hereinafter referred to as "Conditioner Composition 1" and "Conditioner Composition 2" were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 16. All numerical values for amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" as active material.

Hair coloring test (Example 12 and Comparative Example 18)
Swatches of hair with the same properties were placed on a hot plate at 27°C. A 1:1 (mass ratio) mixture of a color product (Alluria Ash Blue 8.11 tone 8, L'Oreal Professional) and an oxidizer product (Alluria Cream Oxydant, L'Oreal Professional) was added to 3 g of mixture/1 g of hair. Dyed tress swatches were prepared by applying ratios to each tress swatch and allowing the tress to stand for 30 minutes before being washed off with tap water (37°C).

The above dyed tress swatches were treated as shown in Table 17. The dyed tress swatches were washed with shampoo composition 1 (Example 12) or shampoo composition 2 (Comparative Example 18) at a ratio of 0.4 g shampoo/1 g hair and rinsed off with tap water (37°C).

Then, without drying, Conditioner Composition 1 (Example 12) or Conditioner Composition 2 (Comparative Example 18) is applied to the dyed tress swatches at a ratio of 0.4 g conditioner/1 g of hair and placed under ambient conditions. (25°C, 40% relative humidity) for 5 minutes.

The above shampooing and conditioning was repeated.

Finally, the dyed tress swatches were dried with a dryer.

[evaluation]
In Example 12, color before and after treatment of dyed tress swatches with a shampoo containing tannic acid (shampoo composition 1) and a conditioner containing hydrolyzed pea protein (conditioner composition 1). Fading analysis was performed on tress swatches stained via oxidation staining as described above by determining the change in E (ΔE*).

In Comparative Example 18, dyed tress swatches were treated before and after treatment with a shampoo without tannic acid (Shampoo Composition 2) and a conditioner without hydrolyzed pea protein (Conditioner Composition 2). Fading analysis was performed on tress swatches dyed via oxidation staining as described above by determining the change in color (ΔE*) of .

Color difference (ΔE* based on CIE1976) was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A. A smaller ΔE* indicates less bleaching. Results are shown in Table 17.

Regardless of the number of treatments, the use of shampoos containing tannic acid and conditioners containing hydrolyzed pea protein produced smaller ΔE* values (more showed less fading).

The above demonstrates that the use of shampoos containing tannic acid and conditioners containing hydrolyzed pea protein for dyed hair can result in less fading.

Claims (15)

A method of treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) treating keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol;
(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one plant-derived protein;
The keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above, or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) above followed by steps above. (1) treated by
Method. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the polyphenols are selected from tannins. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the polyphenol is tannic acid. The amount of polyphenols in the first composition is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.05% to 5%, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. 4. The method of any one of claims 1 to 3, in the range of % by weight. The plant-derived protein is selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed pea protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, plant-derived recombinant silk protein, and mixtures thereof. , a method according to any one of claims 1 to 4. 6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the plant-derived protein is hydrolyzed pea protein. The amount of plant-derived protein in the second composition is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.05% to 5%, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in the mass % range. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein at least one of the first and second compositions has a pH of 3.0-8.0, preferably 3.5-6.5, more preferably 4.0-6.0. . 9. Any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the first composition or the second composition is removed from the keratin fibers after the keratin fibers have been treated with the first composition or the second composition. the method of. 9. The method of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the first composition or the second composition is retained on the keratin fibers after the keratin fibers have been treated with the first composition or the second composition. described method. 11. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, capable of improving the strength or hardness of keratin fibers. 11. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, capable of reducing discoloration of dyed keratin fibres. A product for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) a first composition, and
(2) comprising a second composition;
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
product. A kit for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and
(2) comprising a second compartment comprising a second composition;
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
kit. to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers or to reduce discoloration of keratin fibers,
(1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition;
(2) use in combination with treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition,
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol;
the second composition comprises at least one plant-derived protein;
use.