FR3132022A1 - USE OF POLYPHENOL AND WATER SOLUBLE POLYMER FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

USE OF POLYPHENOL AND WATER-SOLUBLE POLYMER FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates to a combination of (1) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; and (2) treatment of keratinous fibres, preferably hair, with a second composition, in which the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer, in order to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibres. The present invention can improve, for example, the suppleness or elasticity of keratin fibers and/or reduce the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

USE OF POLYPHENOL AND WATER-SOLUBLE POLYMER FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS

The present invention relates to the use of a combination of polyphenol and a water-soluble polymer for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

In the field of hair treatments, in some cases it is preferable to make the hair resistant or hard in order to improve, for example, the suppleness or elasticity of the hair. Additionally, it is best for colored hair to be resistant to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning, to reduce color fading due to hair treatments.

JP-B-6594114 discloses the treatment of hair with a pretreatment agent including tannic acid and a posttreatment agent including hydrolyzed keratin. According to JP-B-6594114, pretreatment of hair with tannic acid can reduce the penetration of hydrolyzed keratin into the hair. However, JP-B-6594114 does not disclose or imply that the two-step hair treatment disclosed therein can improve hair strength or reduce color fading of dyed hair.

There is a need for a hair treatment that can improve hair strength.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a means of improving the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reducing the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.

The main objective can be achieved by a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

(1) treatment of keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; And

(2) treatment of the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one water-soluble polymer,

in which

the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.

The polyphenol can be selected from tannins.

It is preferable that the polyphenol is tannic acid.

The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be in a range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight. 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

The water-soluble polymer may be selected from water-soluble film-forming polymers, preferably from synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid , polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

It is even more preferable that the water-soluble polymer is polyvinylpyrrolidone.

It is preferable that the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer form a gel.

The amount of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

At least one of the first and second compositions may have a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 4.0 to 6.0.

The first composition can be removed from the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.

The first composition can be maintained on the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.

The method according to the present invention is capable of improving the strength or hardness of keratin fibers.

The method according to the present invention is capable of reducing the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers.

The present invention also relates to a product for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) a first composition; And

(2) a second composition,

in which

the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and

the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.

The present invention also relates to a kit for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; And

(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition,

in which

the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and

the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; And

(2) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition,

in which

the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and

the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer

in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers and/or to reduce the alteration of the color of the keratin fibers.

After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a means of improving the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reducing the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair. .

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

(1) the treatment of keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; And

(2) the treatment of the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one water-soluble polymer,

in which

the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.

The present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce color discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.

It is possible, by means of the present invention, to provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better flexibility and better elasticity.

It is also possible, by means of the present invention, to provide dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers with less color alteration caused by hair treatments.

Below, the present invention will be described in detail.

[Process]

One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

(1) the treatment of keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; And

(2) the treatment of the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one water-soluble polymer,

in which

the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.

{First composition}

(Polyphenol)

The first composition comprises at least one polyphenol. A single type of polyphenol may be used, or two or more different types of polyphenols may be used in combination.

The expression “polyphenol” is understood to designate a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. Phenolic hydroxyl group refers to a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may optionally be etherified or esterified.

The polyphenol can be chosen from those which have antioxidant activity.

The polyphenol can be chosen, for example, from flavonoids. Flavonoids can correspond to general formula (I):

(I)

in which

A", B", C" and D", independently of each other, represent H or -OH;

E" represents H, -OH or -OX', where X' represents:

F", G" and J" represent, independently of each other, H or -OH; and

X ₁ represents -CH ₂ -, -CO- or -CHOH-,

or to the general formula (II):

(II)

in which

A', C' and D', independently of each other, represent H, -OH or -OCH ₃ ;

E' represents H, -OH or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;

B', F', G' and J', independently of each other, represent H, OH, -OCH ₃ or -OCH ₂ -CH ₂ -OH. Rutinose can be mentioned among the R'OH sugars.

The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained in particular according to the processes described in “The Flavonoids”, Harborne J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.

Among the flavonoids which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of taxifolin, catechin, epicatechin, eriodictyol, naringenin, rutin, troxerutin, chrysin, tangeretin, luteolin, epigallocatechin. and epigallocatechin gallate, quercetin, fisetin, kaempferol, galangin, gallocatechin, and epicatechin gallate.

Some polyphenols that can be used are present in plants from which they can be extracted in a known manner. It is possible to use tea leaf extracts (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica). We can in particular mention the green tea extracts sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the Nikko company, which contain flavonoids in particular.

Among the polyphenols which can be used, we can also mention polyphenols such as carnosic acid and carnosol which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984) or by extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol preceded by an extraction using a non-polar solvent such as hexane to eliminate odorous substances, as described in EP -A-307 626.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (in particular esters and amides):

(III)

in which

R ₁ " represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r"), in which Alk denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or alkoxy groups, or a C ₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl,

r' and r" independently represent H, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₃ -C ₆ polyhydroxyalkyl, or alternatively r' and r" form, together with an atom nitrogen to which they are attached, a heterocycle,

r is a number, including zero, such that the chain -(CH ₂ ) _r -COR ₁ contains at most 21 carbon atoms,

R ₂ "and R ₃ " independently represent H or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, it being further possible for R ₂ " to represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy.

The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known processes, for example analogous to those described in patents FR-2 400 358 and FR-2 400 359.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from caffeic acid esters or amides.

Among the caffeic acid esters, we can in particular mention the compounds of formula (IV):

(IV)

in which

Z represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example a methyl, or the residue of a phytol.

Among the caffeic acid amides, we can in particular mention the compounds of formula (V):

(V)

in which

Z' represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, in particular a C ₆ -C _{8 alkyl} .

The compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from tannins.

The tannins can be chosen from hydrolyzable tannins, and condensed tannins which are not hydrolyzable, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrolyzable tannins can be selected from gallotannin and ellagic tannin.

It is preferable to use, as polyphenol, a tannic acid which belongs to the gallotannin category.

Tannic acid corresponds to the following chemical formula:

Polyphenol can be obtained from plants. Thus, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight. or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The first composition may include water.

The amount of water in the first composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. .

The amount of water in the first composition may be 99.5% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the first composition may range from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Additional ingredients)

The first composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.

It is preferable that the first composition comprises at least one surfactant, which will be explained later.

(pH)

The pH of the first composition can be adjusted to the desired value using an alkaline agent(s) and/or an acidic agent(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics. .

The first composition may have a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 4.0 to 6.0.

The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The acidic agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

{Second composition}

(Water soluble polymer)

The second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer. A single type of water-soluble polymer may be used, or two or more different types of water-soluble polymers may be used in combination.

The water-soluble polymer may be selected from natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable if the water-soluble polymer can form a film. In other words, it is preferable that the water-soluble polymer is a water-soluble film-forming polymer.

Examples of water-soluble polymers that may be mentioned include:

proteins, for example proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratin, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;

cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and cationized celluloses such as celluloses with quaternary ammonium groups;

acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylic acids, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and polyacrylamides;

vinyl polymers, for example polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone such as a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam;

polyvinyl alcohol;

polyamines;

polyethyleneimines;

polyethylene glycols;

polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;

alginates and carrageenans;

glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;

shellac resin, sandaraque gum, Dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;

deoxyribonucleic acid;

mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate; And

mixtures of these.

It is preferable that the water-soluble polymer is selected from water-soluble film-forming polymers, preferably from synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the water-soluble polymer is polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

The amount of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.05% by weight or more. preferred by 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight. weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, so as to more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The second compositions may include water.

The amount of water in the second composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. .

The amount of water in the second composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. .

The amount of water in the second composition may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, e.g. relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Additional ingredients)

The second composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.

It is preferable that the second composition comprises at least one silicone and/or at least one oil, which will be explained later.

(pH)

The pH of the second composition can be adjusted to the desired value using an alkaline agent(s) and/or an acidic agent(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics. .

The second composition may have a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 4.0 to 6.0.

The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The acidic agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

{Ability to form gel}

It is preferable that the polyphenol in the first composition and the water-soluble polymer in the second composition form a gel on the keratin fibers.

It is more preferable that the polyphenol selected from the tannins in the first composition and the water-soluble polymer selected from the synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers in the second composition form a gel on the keratin fibers.

It is even more preferable that tannic acid as a polyphenol in the first composition and PVP as a water-soluble polymer in the second composition form a gel on the keratin fibers.

{Optional ingredients}

The first composition and/or the second composition may also comprise at least one optional ingredient which is conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair.

Examples of the optional ingredient will be explained below.

(Surfactant)

The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one surfactant.

Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. The surfactant used for the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

If two or more surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

Anionic surfactants:

According to the present invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. It is preferable that the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulfates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ), alkyl ether sulfates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ), alkylamido sulfates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) ether, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ), alkylamide sulfonates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ), alkylaryl sulfonates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ), α-olefin sulfonates and sulfonates of paraffin; alkyl phosphates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); alkyl sulfosuccinates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ), alkyl ether sulfosuccinates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) and alkylamide sulfosuccinates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); alkyl sulfoacetates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); acyl sarcosinates (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ); acyl glutamates (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ); alkylpolyglycoside (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) carboxylic ethers; alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); alkyl sulfosuccinamates (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ); acyl isethionates (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ); N-acyl taurates (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ); C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid salts; acid salts of coconut oil or acid salts of hydrogenated coconut oil; acyl lactylates (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ); salts of C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid; carboxylic acid salts of polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether; carboxylic acid salts of polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylaryl ether; and carboxylic acid salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) ether.

It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant is selected from the (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfate salts or the carboxylic acid salts of polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether.

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as alkali metal salts, for example sodium; salts of alkaline earth metals, for example magnesium; ammonium salts; amino salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on conditions, they can also be in acidic form.

Amphoteric surfactants:

According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, and optionally quaternized amine, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamine derivatives.

The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular alkylbetaines (in C ₈ -C ₂₄ ), alkylamido (in C ₈ -C ₂₄ )-alkylbetaines (C ₁ -C ₈ ), sulfobetaines and alkylamido (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )-alkylsulfobetaines (C _1- C ₈ ). In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkylbetaines (in C ₈ -C ₂₄ ), alkylamido (in C ₈ -C ₂₄ )-alkylsulphobetaines (in C ₁ -C ₈ ), sulphobetaines and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples which may be mentioned include compounds classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, as cocobetaine, lauryl betaine, cetyl betaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, oleamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.

The amphoteric betaine-type surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the carboxylated amidoamine derivatives, mention may be made of products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, having the respective structures:

R ₁ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R ₂ )(R ₃ )(CH ₂ COO ^- )

in which :

R ₁ designates an alkyl radical of an acid R ₁ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

R ₂ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R ₃ denotes a carboxymethyl group; And

R ₁ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(C)

in which :

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX',

C represents -(CH ₂ ) _z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'designates a group -Ch ₂ ch ₂ -Cooh, -ch ₂ -Cooz', -Ch ₂ ch -cooh, -ch ₂ ch _{2 -} cooz ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y' designates –COOH, –COOZ', -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z' or a radical -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H,

Z’ represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine, and

R ₁ 'denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₁ '-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C ₇ , C ₉ alkyl radical , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ , a C ₁₇ alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant is selected from alkyl amphomonoacetates (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ), alkyl amphodiacetates (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ), alkyl amphomonopropionates (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) and alkyl amphodipropionates (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ).

These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, we can mention cocoamphodiacetate sold under the brand name Miranol® C2M Concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Cationic surfactants:

According to the present invention, the type of cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:

those of general formula (I) below:

(I)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen , sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals can be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, alkylamido (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )-alkyl (C ₂ -C ₆ ) radicals, acetate alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) and hydroxyalkyl; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; ^and _{_ _}

quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (II) below:

(II)

in which :

R ₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or coconut;

R ₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₇ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;

R ₈ is chosen from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals; And

X ^- is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, R ₇ is a methyl, and R ₈ is a hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the Witco company;

diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (III):

(III)

in which :

R ₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ ;

R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; And

X ^- is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P from FINETEX (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT from FINETEX (Quaternium-75); And

quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:

(IV)

in which :

R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals, and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the radical below:

,

radicals R ₂₇ based on C _1- C ₂₂ hydrocarbons, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, and hydrogen,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the radical below:

,

radicals R ₂₉ based on C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbons, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, and hydrogen,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from radicals based on C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbons, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated;

r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers lying in a range of 2 to 6;

each of r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, is 0 or 1, and r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + 2t = 2t;

y is selected from integers ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers lying in a range of 0 to 10;

X ^- is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum x + y + z lies in a range of 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇ , and that when z is 0, R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ can be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x + y + z lies in a range of 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ , it can be long and include 12 to 22 carbon atoms , or short and include 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is a radical based on hydrocarbon R ₂₉ , it can comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals. , saturated and unsaturated, for example among C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ^- can be chosen from, for example, halides, such as a chloride, a bromide and an iodide; and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate and a lactate, and any other anion which is compatible with ammonium comprising an ester function, are d other non-limiting examples of anions which can be used for the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ^- is chosen from a chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) can be used, in which:

R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the radical below:

,

methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the radical below:

,

and a hydrogen;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from radicals based on C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbons, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, for example from alkyl and alkenyl radicals in C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ , linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) which may be mentioned include the salts, e.g. methyl chloride and sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl -methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from an oil of vegetable origin, for example palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters of those -this. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the Cognis company, Stepanquat® by the Stepan company, Noxamium® by the Ceca company, and “Rewoquat® WE 18” by the Rewo-Goldschmidt company.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used for the present invention include ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made, but not limited to, of those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example chlorides of dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name “Ceraphyl® 70” by the Van Dyk company.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant which can be used for the present invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

Nonionic surfactants:

Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to be in a range of 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to be in a range of 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. We can also mention in a non-limiting manner copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol glycerol alkylpolyglycosides (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ); N-alkylglucamine derivatives (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ); amine oxides such as amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ); and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include:

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated alkylphenols (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ),

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,

esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyalkylene glycols,

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol,

oils of vegetable origin, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated,

condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures.

The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not include oxypropylene units.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), a polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid) , and a mixture of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, particularly those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-20, according to the CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20, according to the CTFA names) ; adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-30, depending on the CTFA names ) ; adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, particularly those containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-30, depending on the CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Steareth-2 to Steareth-20, according to the CTFA names) ; adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, particularly those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-50, depending on the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof , in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 2 to 9 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, C ₈ -C ₄₀ monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols correspond to the following formula:

RO-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _m -H or RO-[CH(CH ₂ OH)-CH ₂ O] _m -H

in which R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, in C ₈ -C ₄₀ and preferably in C ₈ -C ₃₀ , and m represents a number lying in a range from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1, 5 to 10.

As examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, meaning that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerol fatty alcohol can coexist as a mixture .

Among the monoglycerol or polyglycerol alcohols, it is preferable to use C ₈ /C ₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, C ₁₀ /C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ fatty esters can correspond to the following formula:

R'O-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OR''')-O] _m -R'' or R'O-[CH(CH ₂ OR''')-CH ₂ O] _m -R''

in which each of R', R'' and R''' independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ and preferably C ₈ alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- radical -C ₃₀ , provided that at least one of R', R'' and R''' is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably 1.5 to 10.

Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof , in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 to 18. The HLB is the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, based on weight. total composition.

The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, based on weight. total composition.

The amount of surfactant(s) in the composition may be from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, for example relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Silicone)

The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one silicone. Only one type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.

The silicone can be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amine groups or amino, alkoxy groups, hydroxylated groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, carboxylic acid groups, hydroxyacylamino groups, acrylic groups, polyamine groups and oxazoline groups, and silicone-based celluloses.

Silicones suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched silicones, optionally modified with organic groups, having a viscosity in the range of 5 × 10 ^-6 at 2.5 m ² /s at 25 °C, for example, from 1 × 10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

Silicones which may be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for example, polyorganosiloxanes which are not soluble in the composition. They can be in a form chosen from fluids, waxes, resins and gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When volatile, silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point in the range of 60°C to 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for example, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane sold under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones can also be used, for example, those sold under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane/methylalkyl siloxane type can also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

in which :

Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with organic silicone compounds can also be used, such as a mixture (50/50) of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol and a mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and 1-oxy ,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; And

(ii) linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the brand name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32-TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

In at least one embodiment, the silicones can be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. -above.

According to another embodiment, the silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes having terminal trimethylsilyl groups known under the trade name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:

SILBIONE® fluids of the 47 and 70 047 series and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example, 70 047 fluid V 500 000;

MIRASIL® series fluids marketed by RHODIA;

the 200 series fluids marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;

VISCASIL® fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series fluids (for example, SF 96 and SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC; And

the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.

Polydimethyl siloxanes having dimethyl silanol end groups can also be used, for example, those sold under the brand name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series fluids marketed by RHODIA.

Products marketed under the brand names “ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801” by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes which are polydialkyl siloxanes (in C ₁ -C ₂₀ ), can also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxane waxes can also be used.

Silicone gums suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number average molecular weights in the range of 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or in mixtures. in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) fluids, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) fluids, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures of these. Silicone gums can also be chosen, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by DOW CORNING.

According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones can also be used, such as:

mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by DOW CORNING;

mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid sold by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such a product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500 000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

mixtures of two PDMS having different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the product SF 1236 marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a SE 30 gum as defined above having a viscosity of 20 m ² /s and an SF 96 fluid having a viscosity of 5 × 10 ^-6 m ² /s. Such a product may comprise 15% of an SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 fluid.

Organopolysiloxane resins suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, cross-linked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units:

R ₂ SiO _2/2 , R ₃ SiO _1/2 , RSiO _3/2 and SiO _4/2 , in which R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a C ₁ -C ₄ lower alkyl group, such as a methyl group.

These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the brand name "DOW CORNING 593" and those marketed under the brand names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are silicones with a dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure .

Resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type can also be used, for example, those marketed under the brand names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.

The polyalkylaryl siloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes having viscosities lying in a range of 1 × 10 ^-5 to 5 × 10 ^-2 m ² /s at 25° vs.

Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products marketed under the following brand names:

SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 series from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

BAYER PK series silicones, for example, the PK20 product;

BAYER PN, PH series silicones, for example, PN1000 and PH1000 products; And

some GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series fluids, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organomodified silicones which can be used for the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising in their structure at least one organofunctional group linked by means of a hydrocarbon group.

Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the brand name DC 1248 and under the brand name DC Q2-5220 and fluids SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C ₁₂ )-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the brand name Q2 5200;

optionally substituted amine groups, for example, products marketed under the brand names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and products marketed under the brand names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups can be chosen, for example, from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl amino groups. Aminosilicones may have additional C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy functional groups;

alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the brand name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;

acyloxyalkyl groups, for example, polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732;

anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and alkyl carboxylic anionic groups, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the brand names <<ABIL® S201>> and <<ABIL® S255>>;

hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European patent application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING;

acrylic groups, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M;

polyamine groups, and

oxazoline groups

silicones which may be used for the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 can also be used.

Suitable silicone-based celluloses which may be used for the present invention include products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

It is preferable that the silicone is selected from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight. or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%. at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oil may be used in combination.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those typically used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

The oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

As examples of oils of plant origin, we can mention, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, we can mention, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-carbohydrate C alcohols ₄ -C ₂₆ can also be used.

We can in particular mention: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on hydrocarbons carrying oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as , in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearates, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-succinate ethylhexyl, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate , glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, and others; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and others; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture (50/50) of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, in a non-limiting manner:

- Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

- Mirasil® series oils sold by the Rhodia company;

- 200 series oils from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are radicals based on C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbons, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably radicals based on C ₁ - hydrocarbons. C ₁₂ , and more preferably radicals based on C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbons, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n + m + q is different from 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the PK20 products;

- certain oils from the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus mention the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, a mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and others; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and a decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated radicals, linear and branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferred from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be selected from C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably alcohols saturated in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , linear or branched.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol, linear or branched. Among the saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, the saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can preferably be used. Any saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol, linear or branched, can be more preferably used. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used even more preferably.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition for the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. .

The oil can be chosen from non-polar or polar oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof and even more preferably isododecane, isohexadecane, dimethicone, diisopropyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, compared to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, based on weight. total composition.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight. 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other optional ingredients)

The first composition and/or the second composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof. this ; antioxidants; thickening agents; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersing agents; an acidic agent, an alkaline agent, film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; and opacifying agents.

{Preparation}

Each of the first and second compositions can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s) as explained above. as explained above.

The method and means of mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the first and second compositions.

{Shape}

The first composition and/or the second composition may be in the form of a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair cleansing composition and a hair care composition, and more preferably a shampoo and a conditioner.

The composition according to the present invention may be of a leave-in or rinse-out type. The leave-in type composition is not rinsed after being used on keratin fibers. The rinse-off type composition is rinsed after being used on keratin fibers.

It is preferable that the composition which is applied first to keratin fibers is a shampoo, and that the composition which is applied second to the keratin fibers is a conditioner.

{Processing Steps}

According to the present invention, keratin fibers such as hair are treated with the first and second compositions.

The method according to the present invention comprises the steps of:

(1) treatment of keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; And

(2) treatment of the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one water-soluble polymer,

in which

the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.

In other words, the process according to the present invention can be carried out by:

(a) treatment of the keratin fibers first with the first composition,

after that,

(b) treatment of the keratin fibers first with the second composition.

The first composition can be removed from the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.

Thus, it is possible to carry out, if necessary, a rinsing step between the step of treating the keratin fibers with the first composition and the step of treating the keratin fibers with the second composition. After the rinsing step, a drying step can be carried out before the following step of treating the keratin fibers with the second composition.

Furthermore, the first composition can be maintained on the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.

After steps (a) and (b) above, a rinsing step may or may not be performed. If a rinsing step is performed, a drying step can be performed, if necessary, after the rinsing step.

The method according to the present invention is not a permanent reshaping process such as permanent waving or straightening for keratin fibers.

The keratin fibers to which each of the first and second compositions have been applied may be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers. The duration for each treatment is not limited, but it can be from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 10 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for the treatments according to the present invention can be from 3 to 60 minutes, preferably from 3 to 40 minutes, and more preferably from 3 minutes to 20 minutes.

Keratin fibers can be processed at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratin fibers may be heated to 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 60°C. 50°C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying each of the first and second compositions to the keratin fibers.

The above method is preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers, for example, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.

The method according to the present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce the discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.

It is possible, by means of the method according to the present invention, to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better flexibility and better elasticity.

It is also possible thanks to the method according to the present invention to provide dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers exhibiting less color alteration than a process in which the first compositions do not include polyphenol and the second composition does not include plant-derived protein. are used.

[Product, kit and use]

The present invention also relates to a product for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) a first composition; And

(2) a second composition,

in which

the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and

the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.

The above explanations relating to the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer, as well as to the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention, can be applied to those for the product according to the present invention.

The product is preferably a cosmetic product, and more preferably a cosmetic composition, for the treatment of keratin fibers such as hair.

The present invention also relates to a kit for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; And

(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition,

in which

the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and

the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.

The above explanations relating to the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer, as well as to the first and second compositions, used by the method according to the present invention, can apply to those for the kit according to the present invention.

Those skilled in the art can prepare the kit according to the present invention on the basis of conventional packaging technology. The kit according to the present invention includes the first and second compartments each of which includes, respectively, the first and second compositions separately. The first and second compartments can be equipped with a distribution or discharge means such as a pump. The first and second compartments may be included separately in two separate containers. Furthermore, the first and second compartments can be in a single container.

It is possible to use the kit, for example, in,

(a) dispensing or discharging the first composition from the first compartment,

(b) applying the first composition to keratin fibers,

(c) dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, and

(d) applying the first composition to keratin fibers which have already been treated with the first composition.

It is possible to carry out, if necessary, a rinsing step with or without drying step between step (b) above and step (c) above and/or after step (d) above.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; And

(2) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition,

in which

the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and

the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer

in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers and/or to reduce the alteration of the color of the keratin fibers.

The above explanations relating to the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer, as well as the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention, can be applied to those for use according to the present invention.

The use according to the present invention can be based on a combination of

(1) treatment of keratin fibers with at least one polyphenol; And

(2) treatment of keratin fibers with at least one water-soluble polymer

in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers and/or to reduce the alteration of the color of the keratin fibers.

The above combination can improve, for example, the flexibility or elasticity of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce the discoloration of keratin fibers such as hair due to certain activities such as shampoo and conditioning of keratin fibers.

The processing steps (1) and (2) above are carried out separately and sequentially. In other words, steps (1) and (2) above are not carried out simultaneously.

The above product, kit and use are preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers, e.g., for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping of the keratin fibers.

The above product, kit and use according to the present invention can improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce color discoloration of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.

It is possible, by means of the product, the kit and the use according to the present invention, to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, they can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better flexibility and elasticity.

It is also possible, by means of the product, kit and use according to the present invention, to provide tinted keratin fibers such as tinted hair with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, they can provide dyed keratin fibers exhibiting less color alteration than those in which the first composition not including polyphenol and the second composition including no water-soluble polymer are used.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Compositions 1-3

[Preparation]

Three of the compositions, which are referred to as "Composition 1" through "Composition 3" hereinafter, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all on the basis of "% in weight” as active materials.

Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Tannic acid 0.1 0.5 1.0 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 4.5 qs pH 4.5 qs pH 4.5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100

Composition 4

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as "Composition 4" hereinafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as materials. assets.

Weight (%) Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1 Water qsp 100

Hair treatment tests (Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5)

Hair strands with identical properties were treated according to the protocols according to Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 shown in Table 3.

In Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) having the same properties were used.

The columns of “Application Step 1” and “Application Step 2” in Table 3 show which composition was applied to a strand of hair in the first step and the second step, respectively, of the hair treatment. No indication in the column means that no composition has been applied to the strand of hair.

In each of Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, a composition was applied to a strand of hair at a ratio of 1 g/1 g hair under ambient conditions (25°C, HR 40%).

The column of “After Step 1/Before Step 2” in Table 4 shows the action on the hair strand during the time period (30 minutes) between Application Step 1 and Step application 2. The term "rinsing" in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand has been rinsed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term “blow drying” in Table 3 means that the strand of hair has been dried by blowing air. The term “leave-in” in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand has not been removed after application of the composition to the hair strand. The term "layer application" in Table 3 means that the composition has been applied in a layer to the strand of hair.

The column of "After Step 2" in Table 3 shows the action on the hair strand after Application Step 2. The term "rinsing" in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand was rinsed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term “blow drying” in Table 3 means that the strand of hair has been dried by blowing air. The term “leave-in” in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand has not been removed after application of the composition to the hair strand.

Application step 1 After step 1/
Before Step 2 Application step 2 After step 2 Duration(s) of application in each of Steps 1 and 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Composition 1 Rinsing, Blow drying - - 3 times Ex. Comp. 2 Composition 2 Rinsing, Blow drying - - 3 times Ex. Comp. 3 Composition 3 Rinsing, Blow drying - - 3 times Ex. Comp. 4 Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying - - 3 times Example 1 Composition 1 Rinsing, Blow drying Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying 3 times Example 2 Composition 2 Rinsing, Blow drying Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying 3 times Example 3 Composition 3 Rinsing, Blow drying Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying 3 times Ex. Comp. 5 Composition 4 Leave-in, Blow dry - - 1 time Example 4 Composition 1 Rinsing, Blow drying Composition 4 Leave-in, Blow dry 1 time Example 5 Composition 1 Without rinsing, Layer application Composition 4 Leave-in, Blow dry 1 time Example 6 Composition 1 Without rinsing, Layer application Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying 3 times Example 7 Composition 2 Without rinsing, Layer application Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying 3 times Example 8 Composition 3 Without rinsing, Layer application Composition 4 Rinsing, Blow drying 3 times

[Ratings]

A sensory test was carried out by five panelists to evaluate the resistance (hardness) of the hair strands after the hair treatments according to Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 by comparing the hair strands with a hair strand without any hair treatment whose score has been determined to be 3 as a reference (standard), and determining the score of the relative strength of hair fibers in accordance with the following criteria.

5: much more resistant than the resistance of a lock of untreated hair

4: more resistant than the resistance of a lock of untreated hair

3: similar to the resistance of a lock of untreated hair

2: more fragile than the strength of a lock of untreated hair

1: much more fragile than the strength of a lock of untreated hair

The scores were averaged. A higher score indicates hair fibers perceived as more resistant. The results are shown in Tables 4-6 below.

Resistance Reference 3.0 Ex. Comp. 1 3.6 Ex. Comp. 2 3.8 Ex. Comp. 3 4.2 Ex. Comp. 4 2.8 Example 1 3.9 Example 2 4.3 Example 3 4.5

Table 4 shows the results of the sensory evaluation of hair strands treated under the conditions where rinsing was carried out between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2.

A staged hair treatment with tannic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) made it possible to obtain an improved level of resistance of hair fibers compared to hair treatment with tannic acid or polyvinylpyrrolidone. polyvinylpyrrolidone alone (Ex. Comp. 1 to Ex. Comp. 4).

Resistance Reference 3.0 Ex. Comp. 5 2.7 Example 4 4.0 Example 5 3.8

Table 5 shows the results of the sensory evaluation of hair strands treated under the conditions where no rinsing was carried out after the last hair treatment.

A staged hair treatment with tannic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone (Ex. 4 and Ex. 5) made it possible to obtain an improved level of resistance of hair fibers compared to hair treatment with polyvinylpyrrolidone alone (Ex. Comp . 5).

Resistance Reference 3.0 Ex. Comp. 4 2.8 Example 6 3.9 Example 7 4.4 Example 8 4.7

Table 6 shows the results of the sensory evaluation of hair strands treated under the conditions where the last compositions applied to the hair strands were removed by rinsing the hair strands.

A two-step application to hair of tannic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone (Ex. 6 to Ex. 7) made it possible to obtain an improved level of resistance of hair fibers compared to hair treatment with polyvinylpyrrolidone alone (Ex. Comp . 4).

Shampoo compositions 1 and 2

[Preparation]

Compositions, which are referred to as "Shampoo Composition 1" and "Shampoo Composition 2" hereinafter, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 7. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the “% by weight” as active materials.

Shampoo composition 1 Shampoo composition 2 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 Sodium laureth sulfate 16 16 Cocamidopropyl betaine 6.4 6.4 Tannic acid 0.5 - Sodium chloride 2.5 2.5 Citric acid qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100

Conditioner compositions 1 and 2

[Preparation]

Compositions, which are referred to as "Conditioner Composition 1" and "Conditioner Composition 2" hereinafter, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 8. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the “% by weight” as active materials.

Conditioner composition 1 Conditioner composition 2 Cetearyl alcohol 6 6 Cetyl Esters (and) Cetyl Esters 1 1 Behentrimonium chloride 3 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-8 (and) Cetrimonium chloride 1.22 1.22 PVP 1 - Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.2 0.2 Citric acid qs pH 4.0 qs pH 4.0 Potassium hydroxide qs pH 4.0 qs pH 4.0 Scent 0.7 0.7 Water qsp 100 qsp 100

Hair coloring tests (Example 9 and Comparative Example 6)

Strands of hair with identical properties were placed on a hot plate at 27°C. A 1:1 mixture (weight ratio) of an oxidative coloring product (Alluria Ash Blue 8.11 shade 8, L'Oreal Professional) and an oxidizing product (Alluria Cream Oxydant, L'Oreal Professional) was applied to each hair strands at a ratio of 3 g of mixture/g of hair, and the hair strands were left for 30 minutes until rinsed with tap water (37°C) to prepare colored hair strands .

The above strands of colored hair were treated as shown in Table 9. The strands of colored hair were washed with Shampoo Composition 1 (Ex. 9) or Shampoo Composition 2 (Ex. Comp. 6 ) at a ratio of 0.4 g of shampoo/g of hair, and rinsed with tap water (37°C).

Then, without drying, Conditioner Composition 1 (Ex. 9) or Conditioner Composition 2 (Ex. Comp. 6) was applied to the colored hair strands at a ratio of 0.4 g of conditioner/g of hair and left for 5 minutes in ambient conditions (25°C, RH 40%).

The above shampoo and conditioning was repeated.

To finish, the strands of colored hair were dried with a hairdryer.

Example 9 Ex. Comp. 6 Shampoo Shampoo composition 1 Shampoo composition 2 Conditioner Conditioner composition 1 Conditioner composition 2 Shampoo and Condition Repeats ΔE ΔE 0 (just after coloring) 0 0 4 6.96 8.60 8 8.82 10.1

[Ratings]

In Example 9, a color change analysis was carried out for the strand of colored hair which had been subjected to oxidative dyeing as above, by determining the color change (ΔE*) before and after treatment of the strand of colored hair with a shampoo including tannic acid (Shampoo Composition 1) and a conditioner including PVP (Conditioner Composition 1).

In Comparative Example 6, a color change analysis was carried out for the strand of colored hair which had been subjected to oxidative dyeing as above, by determining the color change (ΔE*) before and after treatment of the strand of colored hair with a shampoo not including tannic acid (Shampoo composition 2) and a conditioner including no PVP (Conditioner composition 2).

Color difference (ΔE* based on CIE1976) was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A. A smaller ΔE* indicates less color alteration. The results are shown in Table 9.

At all points of the treatment, the use of a shampoo including tannic acid and a conditioner including PVP showed lower ΔE* values (less color alteration) compared to the use of a shampoo not including tannic acid and a conditioner not including PVP.

The above demonstrates that using a shampoo including tannic acid and a conditioner including PVP for colored hair can provide less color alteration.

Claims (10)

Process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:
(1) treatment of keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; And
(2) treatment of the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one water-soluble polymer,
in which
the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol is selected from tannins. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyphenol is tannic acid. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the water-soluble polymer is selected from water-soluble film-forming polymers, preferably from synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers, and more preferred from the group consisting of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the water-soluble polymer is polyvinylpyrrolidone. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer form a gel. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the first composition is maintained on the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition. Product for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
(1) a first composition; And
(2) a second composition,
in which
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer. Kit for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; And
(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition,
in which
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer. Using a combination of
(1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; And
(2) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition,
in which
the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer
in order to
improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers and/or reduce discoloration of keratin fibers.