WO2023112868A1

WO2023112868A1 - Use of polyphenol and protein derived from plants for treating keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2023112868A1
Application number: PCT/JP2022/045579
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yoshiki Shibuya; Adrien Kaeser; Isaac Eng Ting Lee; Hitomi ASAMA
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-12-17
Filing date: 2022-12-06
Publication date: 2023-06-22

Abstract

The present invention relates to a combination of (1) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; and (2) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants, in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers and/or reduce color fading of the keratin fibers. The present invention can improve, for example, bounciness or elasticity of keratin fibers and/or reduce color fading of dyed keratin fibers, with ingredients obtainable from plants.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE OF INVENTION

USE OF POLYPHENOLAND PROTEIN DERIVED FROM PLANTS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to the use of a combination of polyphenol and protein derived from plants for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair.

BACKGROUND ART

In the field of hair treatments, in some cases, it is preferable to make hair strong or hard in order to improve, for example, the bounciness or elasticity of the hair. Also, it is preferable for colored hair to be resistant to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning, in order to reduce color fading due to the hair treatments.

JP-B-6594114 discloses treating hair with a pre-treatment agent including tannic acid and a post-treatment agent including hydrolyzed keratin. According to JP-B-6594114, the pretreatment of hair with tannic acid can reduce the penetration of the hydrolyzed keratin into the hair. However, JP-B-6594114 does not disclose or suggest that the two-step hair treatment disclosed therein can improve the strength of hair or reduce color fading of dyed hair.

On the other hand, in the field of cosmetics, there is a trend to use ingredients which are not derived from animals, which are environmentally friendly, for cosmetic products.

There is a need for a hair treatment which can improve the strength of hair and/or can reduce color fading of dyed hair with a cosmetic product using non-animal-based ingredients.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a means to improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or to reduce color fading of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair, wherein the means uses ingredients which are obtainable from plants.

The above objective can be achieved by a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

(1) treating the keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; and

(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one protein derived from plants, wherein the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above, or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) above followed by step (1) above.

The piolyphenol may be selected from tannins.

It is preferable that the polyphenol be tannic acid. The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

The protein derived from plants may be selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed pea protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed com protein, recombinant silk protein derived from plants and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the hydrolyzed protein derived from plants be hydrolyzed pea protein.

The amount of the protein(s) derived from plants in the second composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

At least one of the first and second compositions may have a pH of from 3.0 to 8.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0.

The first composition or the second composition may be removed from the keratin fibers after treating the keratin fibers with the first composition or the second composition.

The first composition or the second composition may be maintained on the keratin fibers after treating the keratin fibers with the first composition or the second composition.

The process according to the present invention is capable of improving the strength or hardness of keratin fibers.

The process according to the present invention is capable of reducing color fading of dyed keratin fibers.

The present invention also relates to a product for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) a first composition; and

(2) a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants.

The present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and

(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(1) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; and

(2) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers, or reduce color fading of the keratin fibers.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a means to improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or to reduce color fading of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair, wherein the means uses ingredients which are obtainable from plants.

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

The present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce color fading of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with ingredients obtainable from plants.

It is possible, by means of the present invention, to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better bounciness and better elasticity.

It is also possible, by means of the present invention, to provide dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers with less color fading caused by hair treatments.

Since the polyphenol and/or the protein derived from plants can be obtained from plants, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

Hereafter, the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.

[Process]

One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

{First Composition}

(Polyphenol)

The first composition comprises at least one polyphenol. A single type of polyphenol may be used, or two or more different types of polyphenols may be used in combination.

The expression "polyphenol" is understood to mean a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. The phenolic hydroxyl group means a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may be optionally etherified or esterified.

The polyphenol may be chosen from those which have an antioxidizing activity.

The polyphenol may be chosen, for example, from flavonoids, Flavonoids may correspond to general formula (I):

in which

A", B", C" and D", independently of one another, represent H or -OH;

E" represents H, -OH or -OX', where X' represents:

F", G" and J" represent, independently of one another, H or -OH; and Xi represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-, or

in which A', C and D', independently of one another, represent H, -OH or -OCH3;

E' represents H, -OH or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH; B', F', G' and J', independently of one another, represent H, OH, -OCH3 or -OCH2-CH2-OH. Rutinose may be mentioned among the sugars R'OH.

The compounds of formulae (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained especially according to the processes described in "The Flavonoids", Harbome J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.

Among the flavonoids which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of taxifolin, catechin, epicatechin, eriodictyol, naringenin, rutin, troxerutin, chrysin, tangeretin, luteolin, epigallocatechin and epigal locatechin gallate, quercetin, fisetin, kaempferol, galangin, gallocatechin and epicatechin gallate.

Certain polyphenols which can be used are present in plants from which they can be extracted in a known way. It is possible to use extracts from tea leaves (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica). Mention will in particular be made of the green tea extracts sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the Company Nikko, which especially contain flavonoids.

Among the polyphenols which can be used, mention will also be made of the polyphenols such as camosic acid and camosol which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984) or by extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol preceded by extraction using a nonpolar solvent such as hexane to remove the odorant substances, as described in EP-A-307,626.

Polyphenol may also be chosen from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (especially esters and amides):

in which

Ri" represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r"), wherein Aik denotes a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups, or a C2-C20 alkenyl, r' and r" independently represent H, C1-C20 alkyl, C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C3-C6 polyhydroxyalkyl, or alternatively r' and r" form, together with a nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle, r is a number, including zero, such that the -(CH2)r-CORi chain contains at most 21 carbon atoms,

R2" and R3" independently represent H or a C1-C4 alkyl, it additionally being possible for R2" to represent a C1-C4 alkoxy.

The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known methods, for example analogous to those described in Patents FR-2,400,358 and FR-2,400,359.

Polyphenol may also be chosen from esters or amides of caffeic acid. Among the esters of caffeic acid, mention may especially be made of the compounds of formula (IV):

in which

Z represents a Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or the residue of a phytol.

Among the amides of caffeic acid, mention may especially be made of the compounds of formula (V):

in which

Z' represents a Ci-Cs, in particular Ce-Cs, alkyl.

The compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

Polyphenol may also be chosen from tannins.

Tannins may be selected from hydrolyzable tannins, condensed tannins which are not hydrolyzable, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrolyzable tannins may be selected from gallotannin and ellagitannin.

It is preferable to use, as polyphenol, tannic acid which belongs to the category of gallotannin.

Tannic acid corresponds to the following chemical formula:

The polyphenol is obtainable from plants. Thus, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The first composition may comprise water.

The amount of water in the first composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the first composition may be 99.5% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the first composition may range from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Additional Ingredients)

The first composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.

It is preferable that the first composition comprise at least one surfactant, which will be explained later.

(pH)

The pH of the first composition may be adjusted to the desired value using alkaline agent(s) and/or acidic agent(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics.

The first composition may have a pH of from 3.0 to 7.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0.

The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The acidic agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

{Second Composition}

(Protein Derived From Plants)

The second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants. A single type of protein derived from plants may be used, or two or more different types of proteins derived from plants may be used in combination.

The protein derived from plants may be polypeptides which can be obtained from plants such as soy beans, peas, wheat, rice, coms and sesame. The protein may be subjected to hydrolysis. The hydrolysis can be performed by conventionally known processes using, for example, acids or enzymes. The protein derived from plants may also be polypeptides which can be obtained via industrial biotechnology process such as gene recombination and fermentation for natural potent carbon-sources such as com starch.

It is preferable that the protein derived from plants be hydrolyzed pea protein.

The proteins may comprise acidic amino acid such as aspartic acid and glutamic acid, and basic amino acid such as arginine, histidine and lysine.

The hydrolyzed pea protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of peas (Pisum sativum L.). As the hydrolyzed pea protein, a commercial product such as Promois® WJ or Promois® WJ-SP from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of pea protein or powdered pea protein, respectively with an average molecular weight of about 500, may be used. The hydrolyzed soy protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of soys (Glycine max). As the hydrolyzed soy protein, a commercial product such as Promois® WS or Promois® WS-HSP from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of soy protein or powdered soy protein, respectively with an average molecular weight of about 700, may be used. The hydrolyzed wheat protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of wheats (Triticum). As the hydrolyzed wheat protein, a commercial product such as Promois® WG or Promois® WG-SP from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of wheat protein or powdered wheat protein, respectively with an average molecular weight of about 700, may be used. The hydrolyzed rice protein can be prepared by hydrolysis of rice (Oryza sativa). As the hydrolyzed rice protein, a commercial product such as Promois® WR or Promois® WR-SP from Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., which is an aqueous solution of rice protein or powdered rice protein, respectively with an average molecular weight of about 400, may be used. As the mixture of hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed com protein, and hydrolyzed soy protein, a commercial product such as Keraplant from TRI-K, which is an aqueous solution of wheat protein, com protein, and soy protein, may be used. As the plant origin silk, a commercial product such as Silkgel Neo® from Givaudan, which is an aqueous gel of silk produced by industrial biotechnology processes with fermentation may be used.

As the protein is obtainable from plants, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

The amount of the protein(s) derived from plants in the second composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the protein(s) derived from plants in the second composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the protein(s) derived from plants in the second composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The second compositions may comprise water.

The amount of water in the second composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the second composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the second composition may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Additional Ingredients)

The second composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.

It is preferable that the second composition comprise at least one silicone and/or at least one oil, which will be explained later.

(pH)

The pH of the second composition may be adjusted to the desired value using alkaline agent(s) and/or acidic agent(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics.

The second composition may have a pH of from 3.0 to 8.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0. The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to l% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

{Optional Ingredients}

The first composition and/or the second composition may also comprise at least one optional ingredient which is conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair.

Examples of the optional ingredient will be explained below.

(Surfactant)

The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one surfactant.

Any surfactant may be used for the present invention. The surfactant used for the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

If two or more surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

Anionic Surfactants:

According to the present invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. It is preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfates, (Ce-C3o)alkyl ether sulfates, (C6-C3o)alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates; (C6-C3o)alkylsulfonates, (Ce-C3o)alkylamide sulfonates, (C6-C3o)alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, and paraffin sulfonates; (C6-C3o)alkyl phosphates; (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6-C3o)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, and (Ce- C3o)alkylamide sulfosuccinates; (Ce-C3o)alkyl sulfoacetates; (Ce-C24)acyl sarcosinates; (Ce- C24)acyl glutamates; (C6-C3o)alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers; (Ce- C3o)alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates; (Ce-C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinamates; (Ce-C24)acyl isethionates; N-(Ce-C24)acyl taurates; C6-C30 fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; (C8-C2o)acyl lactylates; (C6-C3o)alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C3o)alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C3o)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts; and polyoxyalkylenated (C6- C3o)alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts.

It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (Ce-C3o)alkyl sulfate or polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C3o)alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts.

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance sodium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acid form. Amphoteric Surfactants:

According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quatemized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate, or phosphonate).

The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci- C8)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, and (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (Cs- C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:

Ri-CONHCH2CH2-N⁺(R₂)(R3)(CH2COO ) in which:

Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl, or undecyl radical,

R2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R₃ denotes a carboxymethyl group; and

Ri '-CONHCH₂CH2-N(B)(C) in which:

B represents -CH2CH2OX',

C represents -(CH2)z-Y', with z=l or 2, X' denotes a -CH₂CH₂-COOH group, -CH₂-COOZ’, -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,

Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ’, -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃Z’, or a -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H radical,

Z’ represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion issued from an organic amine, and

Ri ' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, Cn, or C13 alkyl radical, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 radical.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C8-C₂4)-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (Cs-C₂4)alkyl amphodiacetates, (Cs-C₂4)alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (Cs-C₂4)alkyl amphodipropionates.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Cationic Surfactants:

According to the present invention, the type of cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (I) below:

wherein

Ri, R₂, R₃, and R , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C₂-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (Ci₂- C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C6)alkyl, (Ci₂-C₂₂)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X' is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₂-Ce) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (II) below:

wherein:

Rs is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;

Re is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals;

Rs is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals; and

X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and Re are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl, and Rs is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPG by the company Witco; diquatemary ammonium salts of formula (III):

wherein:

R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N⁺(CH2)3;

Ri i, R12, R13, R14, Ri6a, Rj7a, and Risa, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X‘ is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates. An example of one such diquatemary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX (Quatemium-89) or FINQUAT CT of FINETEX (Quatemium-75); and quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula

(IV) below:

wherein:

R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl radicals, and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R23 is chosen from: the radical below:

linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen,

R25 is chosen from: the radical below:

linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen,

R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals; r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and tl+2t=2t; y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X' is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1 . In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X' may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used for the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X' is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) may be used, wherein: R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s, and t are equal to 2;

R23 is chosen from: the radical below:

methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;

R25 is chosen from: the radical below:

O

R₂ — C - and hydrogen;

R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldi isopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used for the present invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used for the present invention are, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used for the present invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, Quatemium-83, Quatemium-87, Quatemium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3- dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

Nonionic Surfactants:

The nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides orN-(Cjo- Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include: monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cg- C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cg- C30 amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plant oils, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.

The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and a mixture of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Steareth-2 to Steareth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 2 to 9 ethyleneoxide units and at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 ethyleneoxide units.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:

RO-[CH₂-CH(CH₂OH)-O]_m-H or RO-[CH(CH₂OH)-CH₂O]_m-H in which R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10. As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferable to use the Cs/Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:

R’O-[CH2-CH(CH₂OR’”)-O]_m-R” or R’O-[CH(CH2OR” CH₂O]_m-R” in which each of R’, R” and R’” independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO-radical, with the proviso that at least one of R’, R” and R’” is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB from 8 to 18. The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Silicone)

The first composition and/or second composition may comprise at least one silicone. A single type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.

The silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo- modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional moiety chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties, amine or amino moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxylated moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, carboxylic acid moieties, hydroxyacylamino moieties, acrylic moieties, polyamine moieties and oxazoline moieties, and silicone-based celluloses.

Silicones suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and nonvolatile, cyclic, linear, and branched silicones, optionally modified with organic moieties, having a viscosity ranging from 5x1 O’⁶ to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C, for example, from 1 x 10'⁵ to 1 m²/s.

Silicones that may be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for instance, polyorganosiloxanes that are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form chosen from fluids, waxes, resins, and gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for instance, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane/methylalkyl siloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

wherein:

Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with silicon derived organic compounds may also be used, such as an octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50/50) mixture and an octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane mixture; and

(ii) linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5x1 O’⁶ m²/s at 25°C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, p. 27-32-TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

In at least one embodiment, the silicones may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with the hereabove organofunctional moieties.

According to another embodiment, the silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 standard Appendix C.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:

SILBIONE® fluids of the series 47 and 70 047 and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example, 70 047 fluid V 500 000; fluids of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; fluids of the series 200 marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm²/s;

VISCASIL® fluids of GENERAL ELECTRIC and some fluids of the SF series (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC; and the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.

Polydimethyl siloxanes with dimethyl silanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as fluids of the 48 series marketed by RHODIA.

Products marketed under the trade names "AB IL Wax® 9800 and 9801 " by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes that are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes, may also be used. Polydimethylsiloxane waxes may also be used.

Silicone gums suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or as mixtures in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) fluids, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) fluids, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. Silicone gums may also be chosen, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by DOW CORNING.

According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones may also be used, such as: mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the Q2 1401 product marketed by DOW CORNING; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the SF 1214 Silicone Fluid product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such product being a SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, with a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in the SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMS with different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the SF 1236 product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The SF 1236 product is a mixture of a SE 30 gum such as defined hereabove with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and a SF 96 fluid with a viscosity of 5* 1 O’⁶ m²/s. Such product may comprise 15% of a SE 30 gum and 85% of a SF 96 fluid.

The organopolysiloxane resins suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, crosslinked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units:

R2SiC>2/2, RsSiOi/2, RSiOa/2, and SiO4/2, wherein R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group.

These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the trade name "DOW CORNING 593" and those marketed under the trade names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, that are dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structured silicones.

Resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type may also be used, for instance, those marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034, and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.

Polyalkylaryl siloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1 *10'⁵ to 5^x10'² m²/s at 25°C.

Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:

SILB IONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING; PK series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PK20 product;

PN, PH series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and PHI 000 products; and some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

Organomodified silicones which may be used for the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organofunctional moiety linked by means of a hydrocarbon group.

Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE and (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine moieties may be chosen, for example, from amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties.

Aminosilicones may have additional C1-C4 alkoxy functional groups; alkoxylated moieties, such as the product marketed under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated moieties, such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganosiloxanes described, for instance, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-85 163 34; acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and carboxylic alkyl anionic moieties, such as those present in the X-22-3701E product marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2- hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names «ABIL® S201» and «ABIL® S255»; hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the Q2-8413 product marketed by DOW CORNING; acrylic moieties, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; polyamine moieties, and oxazoline moieties

silicones that may be used for the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2- ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.

Suitable silicone-based celluloses which may be used for the present invention include the products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

It is preferable that the silicone be selected from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The first composition and/or the second composition may comprise at least one oil. A single type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched. Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2 -ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 1 O'⁶ m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance, the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.

The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Cg-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated poly isobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce- C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition for the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

The oil may be chosen from non-polar or polar oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof and even more preferably isododecane, isohexadecane, dimethicone, diisopropyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 0.01 % by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other Optional Ingredients)

The first composition and/or the second composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; thickening agents; sequestering agents; fragrances; dispersing agents; acidic agent, alkaline agent, film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; and opacifying agents.

{Preparation}

Each of the first and second compositions can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the first and second compositions.

{Form}

The first composition and/or second composition may be in the form of a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair cleansing composition and a hair care composition, and more preferably a shampoo and a conditioner.

The composition according to the present invention may be a leave-on or rinse-off type. The leave-on type composition is not rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers. The rinse-off type composition is rinsed off after being used on keratin fibers.

It is preferable that the composition which is applied first onto keratin fibers be a shampoo, and that the composition which is applied second onto the keratin fibers be a conditioner.

{Treatment Steps}

According to the present invention, keratin fibers such as hair are treated by the first and second compositions.

The process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:

(2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one protein derived from plants, wherein the keratin fibers are treated by the step (1) followed by the step (2), or the keratin fibers are treated by the step (2) followed by the step (1).

In other words, the process according to the present invention can be performed by:

(a) treating keratin fibers first with the first composition, and then with the second composition; or

(b) treating keratin fibers first with the second composition, and then with the first composition.

Thus, it is possible to perform, if necessary, a step of rinsing between the step of treating keratin fibers with the first composition and the step of treating the keratin fibers with the second composition (in the above (a)) or between the step of treating keratin fibers with the second composition and the step of treating the keratin fibers with the first composition (in the above (b)). After the step of rinsing, a step of drying may be performed before the next step of treating keratin fibers with the second composition (in the above (a)) or the first composition (in the above (b)). On the other hand, the first composition or the second composition may be maintained on the keratin fibers after treating the keratin fibers with the first composition (in the above (a)) or the second composition (in the above (b)).

After steps (a) and (b) above, a step of rinsing may or may not be performed. If a step of rinsing is performed, a step of drying may be performed, if necessary, after the step of rinsing.

The process according to the present invention is not a permanent reshaping process such as permanent waving or straightening for keratin fibers.

The keratin fibers to which each of the first and second compositions has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers. The time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 10 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for the treatments according to the present invention may be from 3 to 60 minutes, preferably from 3 to 40 minutes, and more preferably from 3 minutes to 20 minutes.

The keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratin fibers can be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying each of the first and second compositions onto the keratin fibers.

The above process is preferably for cosmetic purposes for the keratin fibers, for example, for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping the keratin fibers.

The process according to the present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce color fading of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair, with ingredients obtainable from plants.

It is possible by the process according to the present invention to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better bounciness and better elasticity.

It is also possible by the process according to the present invention to provide dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers with less color fading than a process in which the first compositions including no polyphenol and the second composition including no protein derived from plants are used.

[Product, Kit and Use]

(1) a first composition; and

(2) a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants. The above explanations regarding the polyphenol and protein derived from plants, as well as the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention can apply to those for the product according to the present invention.

The product is preferably a cosmetic product, and more preferably a cosmetic composition, for treating keratin fibers such as hair.

(1 ) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and

The above explanations regarding the polyphenol and protein derived from plants, as well as the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention can apply to those for the kit according to the present invention.

A person skilled in the art can prepare the kit according to the present invention based on conventional packaging technology. The kit according to the present invention includes the first and second compartments each of which includes, respectively, the first and second compositions separately. The first and second compartments may be equipped with a dispensing or discharging means such as a pump. The first and second compartments may be separately included in two distinct containers. On the other hand, the first and second compartments may be in a single container.

In one embodiment, it is possible to use the kit by, for example,

(a) dispensing or discharging the first composition from the first compartment,

(b) applying the first composition to keratin fibers,

(c) dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, and

(d) applying the second composition to keratin fibers which have already been treated with the first composition.

It is possible to perform, if necessary, a step of rinsing with or without a step of drying between step (b) above and (c) above and/or step (d) above.

In another embodiment, it is possible to use the kit by, for example,

(a’) dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, (b’) applying the second composition to keratin fibers,

(c’) dispensing or discharging the first composition from the first compartment, and (d’) applying the first composition to keratin fibers which have already been treated with the second composition.

It is possible to perform, if necessary, a step of rinsing with or without a step of drying between step (b’) above and step (c’) above and/or after step (d’) above.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(1) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; and (2) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers, or reduce color fading of the keratin fibers.

The above explanations regarding the polyphenol and protein derived from plants, as well as the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention can apply to those for the use according to the present invention.

The use according to the present invention may be based on a combination of

(1) treating keratin fibers with at least one polyphenol; and

(2) treating keratin fibers with at least one protein derived from plants in order to improve the strength or hardness of the keratin fibers, or reduce color fading of the keratin fibers.

The above combination can improve, for example, the bounciness or elasticity of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce color fading of keratin fibers such as hair due to some activities such as shampooing and conditioning the keratin fibers.

Treating steps (1) and (2) above are performed separately and sequentially. In other words, the above steps (1) and (2) are not performed simultaneously.

The order of treating steps (1) and (2) is not limited. Thus, treating step (1) may be performed first, and then treating step (2) may be performed. Alternatively, treating step (2) may be performed first, and then treating step (1) may be performed.

The above product, kit and use are preferably for cosmetic purposes for the keratin fibers, for example, for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping the keratin fibers.

The above product, kit and use according to the present invention can improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers such as hair and/or reduce color fading of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair, with ingredients obtainable from plants.

It is possible, by means of the product, kit and use according to the present invention, to provide keratin fibers such as hair with better strength or hardness of the keratin fibers. Thus, they can provide keratin fibers with better cosmetic properties such as better bounciness and better elasticity.

It is also possible, by means of the product, kit and use according to the present invention, to provide dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, they can provide dyed keratin fibers with less color fading than those in which the first composition including no polyphenol and the second composition including no protein derived from plants are used.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Composition 1

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 1 ” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 1

Composition 2

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 2” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 2

The pH of Composition 2 was 5.6.

Composition 3

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 3” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 3

The pH of Composition 3 was 5.5.

Composition 4

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 4” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 4. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 4

The pH of Composition 4 was 6.0.

Composition 5

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 5” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 5. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 5

The pH of Composition 5 was 5.6.

Composition 6

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 6” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 6. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 6

The pH of Composition 6 was 5.7. Composition 7

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 7” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 7. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 7

The pH of Composition 7 was 5.2.

Composition 8

[Preparation]

A composition, which is referred to as “Composition 8” hereafter, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 8. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 8

The pH of Composition 8 was 7.6.

Hair Treatment Tests (Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12)

Hair swatches were treated in accordance with the protocols according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12 shown in Table 9.

In Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-12, hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) with the same properties were used.

The columns of “Application Step 1” and “Application Step 2” in Table 9 show which composition was applied onto a hair swatch at the first step and the second step, respectively, of the hair treatment. No indication in the column means that no composition was applied onto the hair swatch.

In each of Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, a composition was applied onto a hair swatch at a ratio of 1 g/1 g of hair at ambient conditions (25°C, 40% RH). The column of “After Step 1 /Before Step 2” in Table 9 shows the action to the hair swatch during the time period (30 minutes) between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2. The term “rinse-off” in Table 9 means that the composition on the hair swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term “blow dry” in Table 9 means that the hair swatch was dried by blowing air. The term “leave-on” in Table 9 means that the composition on the hair swatch was not removed after the application of the composition onto the hair swatch. The term “layering” in Table 9 means that the composition was layered onto the hair swatch.

The column of “After Step 2” in Table 9 shows the action to the hair swatch after Application Step 2. The term “rinse-off” in Table 9 means that the composition on the hair swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term “blow dry” in Table 9 means that the hair swatch was dried by blowing air. The term “leave-on” in Table 9 means that the composition on the hair swatch was not removed after the application of the composition onto the hair swatch.

[Evaluations]

A sensory test was carried out by five panelists for evaluating the strength (hardness) of the hair swatches after the hair treatments according to Examples 1 -6 and Comparative Examples 1-12 by comparing the hair swatches with a hair swatch without any hair treatment whose score was determined as 3 as a reference (standard), and scoring the relative strength of hair fibers in accordance with the following criteria.

5: much stronger than the strength of untreated hair swatch

4: stronger than the strength of untreated hair swatch

3: the same as the strength of untreated hair swatch

2: weaker than the strength of untreated hair swatch 1 : much weaker than the strength of untreated hair swatch

The scores were averaged. A higher score indicates stronger perceived hair fibers. The results are shown in Tables 10-12 below.

Table 10

Table 10 shows the results of the sensorial evaluation of hair swatches treated under the conditions that the compositions lastly applied onto the hair swatches were rinsed off from the hair swatches, and that rinsing was performed between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, if Application Step 2 was present.

A step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Ex. 1 and Ex. 2) achieved comparable level of strength of hair fibers to the hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed keratin (Comp. Ex. 4 and Comp. Ex. 5).

Table 10 also shows that the hair treatment with tannic acid alone (Comp. Ex. 1) or hydrolyzed pea protein alone (Comp. Ex. 2) did not achieve the level of hair strength provided by the step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Ex. 1 or Ex. 2). Table 11

Table 11 shows the results of the sensorial evaluation of hair swatches treated under the conditions that the compositions lastly applied onto the hair swatches were rinsed off from the hair swatches, and that rinsing was not performed between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2.

A step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Ex. 3 and Ex. 4) achieved a level of strength of hair fibers comparable to the hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed keratin (Comp. Ex. 6 and Comp. Ex. 7).

Table 12

Table 12 shows the results of the sensorial evaluation of hair swatches treated under the conditions that the compositions lastly applied onto the hair swatches were not rinsed off from the hair swatches, and that rinsing was performed between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, if Application Step 2 was present.

A step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Ex. 5 and Ex. 6) achieved a level of strength of hair fibers comparable to the hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed keratin (Comp. Ex. 8 and Comp. Ex. 9).

Table 12 also shows that the hair treatment with tannic acid alone (Comp. Ex. 10) or hydrolyzed pea protein alone (Comp. Ex. 11) did not achieve the level of hair strength provided by the step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Ex. 5 or Ex. 6).

Hair Treatment Tests (Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17)

Hair swatches were treated in accordance with the protocols according to Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17 shown in Table 13. In Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17, hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) with the same properties were used.

The columns of “Application Step 1” and “Application Step 2” in Table 13 show which composition was applied onto a hair swatch at the first step and the second step, respectively, of the hair treatment. No indication in the column means that no composition was applied onto the hair swatch.

In each of Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, a composition was applied onto a hair swatch at a ratio of 1 g/1 g of hair at ambient conditions (25°C, 40% RH).

The column of “After Step 1/Before Step 2” in Table 13 shows the action to the hair swatch during the time period (30 minutes) between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2. The term “rinse-off” in Table 13 means that the composition on the hair swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term “blow dry” in Table 13 means that the hair swatch was dried by blowing air. The term “leave-on” in Table 13 means that the composition on the hair swatch was not removed after the application of the composition onto the hair swatch. The term “layering” in Table 13 means that the composition was layered onto the hair swatch.

The column of “After Step 2” in Table 13 shows the action to the hair swatch after Application Step 2. The term “rinse-off” in Table 13 means that the composition on the hair swatch was removed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term “blow dry” in Table 13 means that the hair swatch was dried by blowing air. The term “leave-on” in Table 13 means that the composition on the hair swatch was not removed after the application of the composition onto the hair swatch.

[Evaluations]

A sensory test was carried out by five panelists for evaluating the strength (hardness) of the hair swatches after the hair treatments according to Examples 7-11 and Comparative Examples 13-17 by comparing the hair swatches with a hair swatch without any hair treatment whose score was determined as 3 as a reference (standard), and scoring the relative strength of hair fibers in accordance with the following criteria.

5 : much stronger than the strength of untreated hair swatch

4: stronger than the strength of untreated hair swatch

3: the same as the strength of untreated hair swatch

2: weaker than the strength of untreated hair swatch

1 : much weaker than the strength of untreated hair swatch

The scores were averaged. A higher score indicates stronger perceived hair fibers. The results are shown in Table 14 below.

Table 14

Table 14 shows the results of the sensorial evaluation of hair swatches treated under the conditions that the compositions lastly applied onto the hair swatches were rinsed off from the hair swatches, and that rinsing was performed between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, if Application Step 2 was present.

A step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed soy protein (Ex. 7), hydrolyzed wheat protein (Ex. 8), hydrolyzed rice protein (Ex. 9), and mixture of hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed com protein, hydrolyzed soy protein (Ex. 10), and silk (Ex. 11) achieved comparable or better level of strength of hair fibers to the hair treatment with tannic acid and hydrolyzed pea protein (Ex. 1).

Table 14 also shows, similarly to the case of hydrolyzed pea protein (Tables 10 and 12), that the hair treatment with protein alone (Comp. Ex. 14, Comp. Ex. 15, Comp. Ex. 16, Comp. Ex. 17, or Comp. Ex. 18) did not achieve the level of hair strength provided by the step-wise hair treatment with tannic acid and protein (Ex. 7, Ex. 8, Ex. 9, Ex. 10, or Ex. 11).

Shampoo Compositions 1 and 2 [Preparation]

Compositions, which are referred to as “Shampoo Composition 1” and “Shampoo Composition 2” hereafter, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 15. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 15

Conditioner Compositions 1 and 2

[Preparation]

Compositions, which are referred to as “Conditioner Composition 1” and “Conditioner Composition 2” hereafter, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 16. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

Table 16

Hair Coloring Tests (Example 12 and Comparative Example 18)

Hair swatches with the same properties were placed on a hot plate at 27°C. A 1 :1 (weight ratio) mixture of a color product (Alluria Ash Blue 8.11 tone 8, L’Oreal Professional) and an oxidant product (Alluria Cream Oxydant, L’Oreal Professional) was applied to each of the hair swatches at a ratio of 3 g mixture/g hair, and the hair swatches were left for 30 minutes until rinsed out with tap water (37°C) to prepare colored hair swatches.

The above colored hair swatches were treated as shown in Table 17. The colored hair swatches were washed with Shampoo Composition 1 (Ex. 12) or Shampoo Composition 2 (Comp. Ex. 18) at a ratio of 0.4 g shampoo/g hair, and rinsed out with tap water (37°C).

Then, without drying, Conditioner Composition 1 (Ex. 12) or Conditioner Composition 2 (Comp. Ex. 18) was applied to the colored hair swatches at a ratio of 0.4 g conditioner/g hair and posed for 5 minutes under ambient condition (25°C, 40% RH).

The above shampooing and conditioning were repeated.

The colored hair swatches were finally blow-dried.

Table 17

[Evaluations]

In Example 12, a color fading analysis was carried out for the colored hair swatch, which had been subjected to oxidation dyeing as above, by determining the change in color (AE*) before and after treating the colored hair swatch with a shampoo including tannic acid (Shampoo Composition 1) and a conditioner including hydrolyzed pea protein (Conditioner Composition 1).

In Comparative Example 18, a color fading analysis was carried out for the colored hair swatch, which had been subjected to oxidation dyeing as above, by determining the change in color (AE*) before and after treating the colored hair swatch with a shampoo including no tannic acid (Shampoo Composition 2) and a conditioner including no hydrolyzed pea protein (Conditioner Composition 2).

The color difference (AE* based on CIE1976) was measured by using Konica Minolta CM- 3600A. A smaller AE* indicates less color fading. The results are shown in Table 17. At any times of treatment, the use of a shampoo including tannic acid and a conditioner including hydrolyzed pea protein showed smaller AE* values (less color fading) than the use of a shampoo including no tannic acid and a conditioner including no hydrolyzed pea protein.

The above demonstrates that the use of a shampoo including tannic acid and a conditioner including hydrolyzed pea protein for colored hair can provide less color fading.

Claims

CLAIMS A process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (1) treating the keratin fibers with a first composition comprising at least one polyphenol; and (2) treating the keratin fibers with a second composition comprising at least one protein derived from plants, wherein the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above, or the keratin fibers are treated by step (2) above followed by step (1) above. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the polyphenol is selected from tannins. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the polyphenol is tannic acid. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the protein derived from plants is selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed pea protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed com protein, recombinant silk protein derived from plants and mixtures thereof. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the protein derived from plants is hydrolyzed pea protein. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the protein(s) derived from plants in the second composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein at least one of the first and second compositions has a pH of from 3.0 to 8.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the first composition or the second composition is removed from the keratin fibers after treating the keratin fibers with the first composition or the second composition. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the first composition or the second composition is maintained on the keratin fibers after treating the keratin fibers with the first composition or the second composition. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the process is capable of improving the strength or hardness of keratin fibers. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the process is capable 46 of reducing color fading of dyed keratin fibers. A product for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising (1) a first composition; and (2) a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants. A kit for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising (1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and (2) a second compartment comprising a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one protein derived from plants. A use of a combination of

(1) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition; and

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