WO2022219167A1

WO2022219167A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least 5% by weight of a fatty alcohol, a diol, a polyethylene glycol and a cationic surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2022219167A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/060145
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sylvia DA SILVA; Charles Gringore
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-04-16
Filing date: 2022-04-14
Publication date: 2022-10-20
Also published as: FR3121842A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (a) an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty alcohols, (b) one or more diols having a molecular weight of less than 1000, (c) one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10 000 to 200 000 oxyethylene units, and (d) one or more cationic surfactants. It also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, using this composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 5% BY WEIGHT OF A FATTY ALCOHOL, A DIOL, A POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular hair composition, comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, one or more diols having a molecular weight of less than 1000, one or more particular polyethylene glycols and one or more cationic surfactants.

The invention also relates to a process for cosmetically treating and in particular conditioning keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibres.

The invention finally relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cosmetically treating and in particular conditioning keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing and repeated washing.

The hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may in the long run become dry, coarse, brittle, dull, split and/or limp.

Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to hair treatments which make use of compositions intended for conditioning the hair appropriately by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially smoothness, sheen, a soft feel (a natural feel; the hair is no longer coarse), suppleness, a lightweight feel, good disentangling properties leading to easy combing, and good manageability of the hair which is thus easy to shape.

These haircare compositions can, for example, be conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or serums. However, there is a need to provide a single composition which allows easy application to wet hair with a particular texture during application, the composition having to be stable during storage in order to obtain this particular texture at the time of application. It also makes it possible to give the keratin fibres cosmetic properties such as a good cosmetic feel on the hair strand, easy disentangling, good manageability, and sheen.

The applicant has thus discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of at least 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more diols having a molecular weight of less than 1000, one or more particular polyethylene glycols and one or more cationic surfactants makes it possible to satisfy this need.

Thus, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty alcohols,

(b) one or more diols having a molecular weight of less than

1000,

(c) one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10 000 to 200 000 oxyethylene units, and

(d) one or more cationic surfactants.

This composition has a particular texture that is thready after having been worked in the hands, which allows it to be easily applied to the keratin fibres. This particular texture allows a better distribution of the composition on the keratin fibres. It is important for this particular texture to persist over time.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “stable over time” is intended to mean more particularly that the properties of formation of threads persist for the lifetime of the product, which is, for example, at least one year.

The thready effect can be notably evaluated in the following way: a small amount of composition is taken in the palm of the hand. The composition is then massaged with the other palm of the hand (2-3 massages), then the two palms of the hands are separated and the thready/fibrous effect of the composition after massaging is measured by the presence or absence of threads/fibres between the two palms. In addition, the composition according to the invention confers conditioning on keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular a pleasant cosmetic feel, notably a smooth feel, good manageability, easy disentangling of the hair and sheen.

A subject of the invention is also a process for cosmetically treating and in particular conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibres.

Another subject of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions " between " and " ranging from ... to ..." .

The expression " at least one " used in the present description is equivalent to the expression " one or more" .

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, as first essential component (a), one or more fatty alcohols in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty alcohol” is intended to mean an alcohol comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

They are not glycerolated or polyoxyalkylenated.

They may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

They preferably have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a linear or branched C₈-C₃₀, preferably C₁₀-C₃₀, better still C₁₂-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, R possibly being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

The fatty alcohols may be liquid or non-liquid (solid) at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

The term “liquid fatty alcohol” is intended to mean a non- glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

The liquid saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.

These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.

The liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R'-OH, in which R' denotes a branched C 12-C24 alkyl or linear or branched C 12-C24 alkenyl group, R possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is a branched saturated alcohol.

Preferably, R' does not contain any hydroxyl groups.

"Non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ¹.

The non-liquid (or solid) fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R"-OH with R" denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which may be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl- 1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl- l- decanol, 2-decyl- 1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1-cetanol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the fatty alcohols are chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), better still from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol(s), preferably the solid fatty alcohols, are present in a total amount preferentially greater than or equal to 6% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 7% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Notably, the cosmetic composition may comprise the fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 6% to 20% by weight, even better still from 7% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 8% to 13 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises the solid fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 6% to 20% by weight, even better still from 7% to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8% to 13 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As second essential component (b), the composition according to the invention comprises one or more diols having a molecular weight (or molecular mass) of less than 1000.

Preferably, the diol(s) according to the invention are chosen from diols having a molecular weight of less than 500, preferentially less than 100.

By way of example of diols having a molecular weight of less than 1000, mention may be made of diols comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and better still from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or even from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. More particularly, mention may be made of propylene glycol (or 1 ,2-propanediol), dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3- butanediol), 1 ,3-butanediol (or butylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,2- octanediol, 2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the diol is butylene glycol.

The diol(s) having a molecular weight of less than 1000 are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention comprises one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10 000 to 200 000 oxyethylene units, as third essential component (c). The polyethylene glycols (PEGs) used in the invention can be represented by formula (I) below:

H-(0-CH₂CH₂)_n-0H (I) in which n may vary from 10 000 to 200 000, preferably from 50 000 to 180 000, better still from 80 000 to 100 000.

By way of examples, mention may notably be made of the polyethylene glycols known under the INCI names PEG- 14M, PEG-23M, PEG-45M, PEG-90M, PEG- 160M, and PEG- 180M, such as those sold by Dow under the trade name Polyox™. Preferably, the polyethylene glycol is chosen from PEG-90M and PEG- 180M, preferentially PEG-90M. According to the present invention, the polyethylene glycol(s) comprising from 10 000 to 200 000 oxyethylene units may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.075% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio (b)/(c) between the diol(s) having a molecular weight of less than 1000 and the polyethylene glycol(s) comprising from 10 000 to 200 000 oxyethylene units is greater than 1 , better still ranges from 2 to 20, even better still from 5 to 15, or even from 8 to 12.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, as fourth essential component (d), one or more cationic surfactants. They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may notably be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (II):

in which the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as especially oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, C₁-C₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C₁-C₃₀ alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C₁-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), the ones that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk. It is in particular preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (III) below:

in which Rs represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C 1-C4 alkyl group, Rs represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and X is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R5 and R₆ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group and Rs denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo; - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula

(IV):

in which R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms Or a group (R9a)(Rl0a)(Rl la)N-(CH2)3,

R9a, R 1 Oa, Ri ia, Ri i , Ri2, Ri3 and Ri4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:

in which:

Ri₅ is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R 1₆ is chosen from:

- the group

- the groups R₂₀, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₁₈ is chosen from:

- the group

- the groups R₂₂, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁ hydrocarbon- based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Rm denotes R₂₀, and that when z is 0 then Ris denotes R₂₂.

The alkyl groups R₁₅ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₁₆ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₀, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₁ s is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₂, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₁₇, R₁₉ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_{1 1}-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C_{1 1}-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.

The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use may be made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which:

Ri₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s and t are equal to 2;

Ri₆ is chosen from:

- the group

- methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom;

Rig is chosen from:

- the group

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon- based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Examples which may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (V) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, mono acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoyl- ethylhydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium salts. The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C 8-C30, hydrocarbon-based chain.

Preferably, the fatty amines of use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

By way of fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines.

The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (VI) below: RC0NHR"N(R')₂ (VI) in which:

- R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7- C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;

- R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical. The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S 13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from the salts, such as the chlorides, the bromides or the methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as for example the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; the dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 % to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amino silicones.

The term “amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight-average molecular weights of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are m styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 mΐ of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) which may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R'_aG_3-a-Si(0SiG₂)„-(0SiG_bR'_2-b)_m-0-SiG_3-a-R'_a(B) in which:

- G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy;

- a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1 , in particular 1 ,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

- R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-N(R")₂; -N⁺(R")₃ A ; -NR"-Q-N(R")₂ and -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")₃ A , in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a Ci-C₂o alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C_rH_2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F) and/or (G) below.

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones known as “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” corresponding to formula (C):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25 : 1 to 0.35 : 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3 : 1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000. According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below:

in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1 :0.8 to 1 : 1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 : 1 and more particularly is equal to 1 :0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.

The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones the structure of which is different from formula (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil- in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (F) below:

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from

4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000. According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (G) below:

in which:

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2- 8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning. c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are notably described in patent US 4 185

087. d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (J):

in which:

- R₇, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond; - Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C₂-C₁₈ alkenyl radical or a radical -R₆-NHCOR₇;

- X is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A-0 530

974; e) the amino silicones of formula (K):

in which:

- Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of the type (AB)_n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂0)_xSiMe₂-R-N(R”)-R’ -0(C₂H₄0)_a(C₃H₆0)_b-R’ -N(H)-

R-] or alternatively

[-(SiMe₂0)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-0(C2H40)a(C3H₆0)b-] in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

- R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a - CH₂CH₂CH₂0CH₂CH(0H)CH₂- radical; preferentially, R denotes a - CH₂CH2CH20CH₂CH(0H)CH2- radical;

- R’ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’ denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical CH₂CH2CH20CH₂CH(0H)CH2-; preferentially, R’ denotes -CH(CH₃)-

CH₂- .

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol% .

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.

Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive. g) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B).

More preferentially, the silicone(s) are chosen from the compounds having the INCI name amodimethicone, for instance that sold under the trade name Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones.

When the amino silicone(s) is (are) present, the total amount thereof preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols and the amino silicones described above.

The term "fatty substance" is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 1 % by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1 % by weight). They exhibit in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

These fatty substances are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids since salified fatty acids constitute soaps which are generally soluble in aqueous media.

The fatty substances are in particular chosen from C₆-Ci₆ hydrocarbons or hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non silicone waxes, and non-amino silicones.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C6-C16 alkanes, they are linear or branched, and possibly cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

By way of oil of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or, alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.

The fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC I and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2- dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

As regards the fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may notably be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12- C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di - , tri - , tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, myristyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

More particularly among the fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, use is preferably made of esters of fatty acid(s) and of fatty alcohol(s).

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C 12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can in particular be chosen from the group constituted of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C 12-C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di - , tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, notably such as the mixed oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate or oleostearate.

An example which may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, as examples of sugar esters of fatty acids or of mixtures of sugar esters of fatty acids, of: the products sold under the names F160, F140, FI 10, F90, F70, SF40 by Crodesta, denoting respectively sucrose palmitostearates formed of 73% of monoester and 27% of di- and triester, of 61 % of monoester and 39% of di-, tri- and tetraester, of 52% of monoester and 48% of di-, tri- and tetraester, of 45% of monoester and 55% of di-, tri- and tetraester, of 39% of monoester and 61 % of di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed of 20% of monoester and 80% of di-triester-polyester; sucrose mono-di- palmitostearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The wax(es) which may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials which may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

The non-amino silicones which may be used as additional fatty substance in the composition according to the invention may be solid or liquid, and volatile or non-volatile.

Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll’ s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

The volatile non-amino silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as:

□ octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia.

□ cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

□ mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of l , l ’ -oxy(2,2,2’ ,2’ ,3,3 ’ - hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bis neopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x l0 ⁶ m²/s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pp. 27- 32 - Todd & Byers Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics ; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone.

Among the non-volatile non-amino silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups other than an amino group, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups, thiol groups, alkoxylated groups, hydroxyl groups, and aryl groups.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methyl-phenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from Union Carbide; or alternatively (C 12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt;

- hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function; acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu; or alternatively of the 2- hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255.

The non-amino silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;

- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia. In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by Goldschmidt, which are polydi(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

Products which may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy- terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2- 1401 sold by Dow Corning.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from lx lO ⁵ to 5x l0 ² m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product

PK20;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH 1000;

- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023 , SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid paraffins (or mineral oils), esters of fatty alcohol(s) and of fatty acid(s) such as myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

When one or more fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols and the amino silicones is (are) present, the total amount thereof preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1 % to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The water content is preferentially greater than or equal to 50% by weight, better still ranges from 60% to 95% by weight, even better still ranges from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 2 to 12, preferably from 2.5 to 7, preferentially from 3 to 6 and better still from 3.5 to 5.

The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are customarily used. Among the basifying agents, examples which may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, examples which may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from linear or branched C₂ to C₄, monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycerol, and aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

The composition according to the present invention preferably has a viscosity of greater than 1000 mPa.s, preferentially greater than 2000 mPa.s, notably of between 2000 and 10 000, better still between 3000 and 8000, even better still between 4000 and 7000 mPa.s.

The viscosity can be measured using a rheometer such as Rheomat 180 (Mettler) equipped with a spindle 3 (200 revolutions/min, 25°C, measured at 30 s).

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants; natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; Uv- screening agents; fillers such as nacres, titanium dioxide, resins and clays; fragrances; peptizers; vitamins; and preserving agents. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and the amount thereof so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition of the present invention, in particular in terms of fibrous texture after massaging and of stability of this effect over time.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for cosmetically treating and notably conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as described above to said fibres.

According to one particular embodiment of the process, the composition is applied directly to wet hair.

According to a second embodiment, the composition is massaged in the palms of the hands to obtain a thready texture which is then applied to wet hair.

This step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be preceded by at least one step of washing said fibres using a shampoo.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a rinsing step. Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a rinsing step.

Moreover, this step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a drying step.

A subject of the present invention is also a use of the composition as described above, for cosmetically treating and in particular conditioning keratin fibres.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention is used as a hair mask.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

Example 1

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention were prepared from the following ingredients. The proportions are indicated in % by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 1

The compositions are stable over time (storage stability at 25°C or at 45°C for two months). Their viscosity remains stable and their ability to generate threads is preserved, after two months at 45°C.

After application to the hair, followed by rinsing, it is noted that the compositions thus give said hair easy disentangling, softness and manageability.

They allow frizziness to be controlled, and also provide sheen. Example 2

Cosmetic composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B were prepared from the following ingredients. The proportions are indicated in % by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 2

Compositions A and B were each applied on natural hair locks which were beforehand washed and dried, at an amount of 0.9 g. per gram of hair.

Then, the locks were rinsed and dried with a hair dryer.

The properties of the dried hair locks, in terms of conditioning (smooth feel and disentangling), were assessed by 10 experts in a blind evaluation.

The evaluation of the smooth feel is tactile. The expert grasps the lock between thumb and forefinger and slides his fingers along the lock from the top to the tips. He evaluates if the hair has roughness and if it does not catch the fingers. As regards disentangling, the expert passes a fine-tooth comb through the hair from the top to the tips and evaluates the ease of combing. Each expert judged which lock had the easiest disentangling and smoothest feel and used the following marking:

^■ « + » or « 2 points » when the lock has the best property,

^■ « = » or « 1 point » when the locks have the same property, ^■ « - » or « 0 point » when the lock has the worst property.

The results are indicated in tables 3 and 4 below.

Table 3

Table 4

The sum of these 2 criteria makes it possible to assess the performance in terms of overall conditioning. Table 5

Composition A according to the invention allows improving the cosmetic properties in terms of conditioning (smooth feel and ease of disentangling) when compared to comparative composition B .

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:

(b) one or more diols having a molecular weight of less than

1000,

(d) one or more cationic surfactants.

2. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the fatty alcohol is non-liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

3. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, better still from 7% to 15% by weight and even better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diol(s) having a molecular weight of less than 1000 are chosen from propylene glycol (or 1 ,2- propanediol), dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, pinacol (2,3- dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1 ,3-butanediol (or butylene glycol), 2,3- butanediol, 1 ,2-octanediol, 2-methyl- 1 ,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof, preferably butylene glycol.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diol(s) having a molecular weight of less than 1000 are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyethylene glycol(s) comprise from 50 000 to 100 000 oxyethylene units.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyethylene glycol(s) comprising from 10 000 to 200 000 oxyethylene units are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.075% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (b)/(c) weight ratio is greater than 1 , preferably ranges from 2 to 20, better still from 5 to 15 and even better still from 8 to 12.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), and mixtures thereof,

in which the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

in which:

Ri₅ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl groups and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₁₆ is chosen from:

- the group

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₁₈ is chosen from:

- the group

- a hydrogen atom,

X is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Rm denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then Ris denotes R22.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the salts, such as the chlorides, the bromides or the methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as for example the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; the dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1 % to 8% by weight, even better still from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more amino silicone(s), preferably chosen from amodimethicones.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more additional fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols and the amino silicones, preferably chosen from hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid paraffins and fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters.

15. Process for cosmetically treating and notably conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims to said fibres.

16. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.