FR3121842A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 5% BY WEIGHT OF A FATTY ALCOHOL, A DIOL, A POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (a) an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty alcohols, (b) one or more diols of molecular weight less than 1000, (c) one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units, and (d) one or more cationic surfactants. It also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as the hair, using this composition.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 5% BY WEIGHT OF A FATTY ALCOHOL, A DIOL, A POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, one or more diols with a molecular weight of less than 1000, one or more specific polyethylene glycols and one or more cationic surfactants.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for conditioning, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibers.

The invention finally relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.

Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and/or straightening and repeated washing.

The hair is thus damaged by these various factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split ends and/or soft.

Thus, to remedy these drawbacks, it is usual to have recourse to hair care which uses compositions intended to condition the hair in a suitable manner by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, shine, softness to the touch (a natural touch, the hair is no longer rough), suppleness, lightness, good detangling properties leading to ease of combing, and good discipline of the hair which thus has good shaping .

These hair care compositions can be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums. However, there is a need to provide a unique composition which allows easy application to damp hair. with a particular texture during application, the composition having to be stable during storage in order to obtain this particular texture at the time of application. It also makes it possible to provide keratin fibers with cosmetic properties such as a good cosmetic feel on the hair, ease of disentangling, good discipline, and a contribution of shine.

The applicant has thus surprisingly discovered that the combination of at least 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more diols of molecular weight less than 1000, of one or more particular polyethylene glycols, and one or more cationic surfactants makes it possible to satisfy this need.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty alcohols,
(b) one or more diols of molecular weight less than 1000,
(c) one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units, and
(d) one or more cationic surfactants.

This composition has a particular stringy texture after being worked in the hands, which allows it to be easily applied to keratin fibers. This particular texture allows a better distribution of the composition on the keratin fibers. It is important that this particular texture persists over time.

By “stable over time”, it is meant more particularly in the sense of the invention that the yarn-forming properties persist during the life of the product which is, for example, at least one year.

The running effect can be evaluated in particular in the following way: a small quantity of composition is taken in the palm of the hand. The composition is then kneaded with the other palm of the hand (2-3 kneadings) then the two palms are moved apart and the stringy/fibrous effect of the composition is measured after kneading by the presence or absence threads/fibers between the two palms.

In addition, the composition according to the invention confers conditioning on keratinous fibers such as the hair, in particular a pleasant cosmetic feel, in particular a smooth feel, good discipline, ease of disentangling the hair and a supply of shine.

A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of conditioning, of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said fibers the cosmetic composition according to invention.

Another object of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “ included between ” and “ ranging from … to … ”.

The expression “ at least one ” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “ one or more ”.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, as first essential component (a), one or more fatty alcohols in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

They are not glycerolated or polyoxyalkenes.

They can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

They preferably have the R-OH structure in which R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched, C _8-30 , preferably C _10-30 , better still C _12-22 , R possibly being substituted by a or more hydroxy groups.

Fatty alcohols can be liquid or non-liquid (solid) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

By “liquid fatty alcohol”, is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic ring or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.

Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may or may not be conjugated.

These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

They may optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic ring or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.

Liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the R'-OH structure in which R' denotes a branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl or linear or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkenyl group, R possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups .

Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is a branched saturated alcohol.

Preferably, R′ does not contain a hydroxy group.

The term “non-liquid” preferably means a solid compound or a compound exhibiting a viscosity greater than 2 Pa·s at a temperature of 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ⁻¹ .

The non-liquid (or solid) fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. of carbon.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R"-OH structure with R" denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms. of carbon.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohol which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol, cetyl alcohol, alcohol stearyl, cetylstearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the fatty alcohols are chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature (25° C.) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), better still from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetearyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol(s), preferably solid fatty alcohols, are present in a total quantity preferably greater than or equal to 6% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 7% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the cosmetic composition may comprise the fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, better still from 6 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises the solid fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, better still from 6 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

As second essential component (b), the composition according to the invention comprises one or more diols with a molecular weight (or molecular mass) of less than 1000.

Preferably, the diol(s) according to the invention are chosen from diols with a molecular weight of less than 500, preferably less than 100.

As examples of diols with a molecular weight of less than 1000, mention may be made of diols comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and better still from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or even from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. More particularly, mention may be made of propylene glycol (or 1,2-propanediol), dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,3- butanediol (or butylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol, octane 1-2 diol, 2-methyl-1,3-propane diol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the diol is butylene glycol.

The diol or diols with a molecular weight of less than 1000 are preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention comprises one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units, as the third essential component (c). The polyethylene glycols (PEG) used in the invention can be represented by the following formula (Ia):
H-(O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OH (Ia)
in which n can vary from 10,000 to 200,000, preferably from 50,000 to 180,000, better still from 80,000 to 100,000.

By way of examples, mention may in particular be made of the polyethylene glycols known under the INCI names PEG-14M, PEG-23M, PEG-45M, PEG-90M, PEG-160M, and PEG-180M, such as those sold by Dow under the trade name Polyox ^TM . Preferably, the polyethylene glycol is chosen from PEG-90M and PEG-180M, preferentially PEG-90M.

According to the present invention, the polyethylene glycol(s) comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.075% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio (b)/(c) between the diol(s) of molecular weight less than 1000 and the polyethylene glycol(s) comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units is greater than 1 is better from 2 to 20, even better from 5 to 15, or even from 8 to 12.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises as fourth essential component (d), one or more cationic surfactants. They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (II):
(II)
in which the groups R ₁ to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₄ denoting an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) amido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl; X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl- or (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl aryl sulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts or else, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyl-trimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethyl-cetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate )-ammonium marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds;

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula (III) below:
(III)
in which R ₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₇ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₈ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R ₅ and R ₆ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₇ denotes a methyl group, R ₈ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO;

- quaternary di or triammonium salts in particular of formula (IV):
(IV)
in which R ₉ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _9a )(R _10a )(R _11a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ ,

R _9a , R _10a , R _11a , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphonates and alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:
(V)
in which :

R ₁₅ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₁₆ is chosen from:

- the group

- the R ₂₀ groups which are hydrocarbon groups in
C ₁ -C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₁₈ is chosen from:

- the group

- R ₂₂ groups which are C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

r, s and t, identical or different, are integers equal to 2
at 6;

y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, identical or different, are integers with a value of 0
at 10;

X ^- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₁₆ denotes R ₂₀ and that when z is 0 then R ₁₈ denotes R ₂₂ .

The R ₁₅ alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₁₆ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₀ group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₁₈ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₂ group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C ₁₁ -C alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ⁻ is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anion X ⁻ is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Can be used more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which:
R ₁₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R ₁₆ is chosen from:
- the group
- methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,
- the hydrogen atom;
R ₁₈ is chosen from:
- the group
- the hydrogen atom;
R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl -hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids or on mixtures of C ₁₀ - fatty acids. C ₃₀ of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate methyl, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

It is possible to use the behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

The term "fatty amines" means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ .

Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

By way of fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines.
The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain possibly being carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

By amidoamine is meant a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

By fatty amidoamine is meant an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI):
RCONHR’’N(R’)₂(VI)
in which :
-R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C alkyl radical₅-VS₂₉, preferably in C₇-VS₂₃, linear or branched, or a C alkenyl radical₅-VS₂₉, preferably in C₇-VS₂₃linear or branched;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; And
- R ', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical .

The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, l olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example , dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate; and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amino silicones.

By “amino silicone”, is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25° C.) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5,000 and 500,000 approximately;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a -R' _a (B)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, identical or different, designates 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:
-N(R") ₂ ; -N ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^- ; -NR"-QN(R") ₂ and -NR"-QN ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^- ,
in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4, and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F) and/or (G).

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below:

in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , which are different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) can include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are implemented, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind, but preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions whose mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included). Thus, it is possible to use, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (F):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (G):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H):

in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):
in which :
- R ₇ , which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- R ₈ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;
- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.

e) amino silicones of formula (J):

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which are identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g.

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB) _n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R- ]
or
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical C ₂ -C ₁₂ , linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R denotes a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical;
- R′, which are identical or different, represent a C ₂ -C ₁₂ divalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by mole of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mole.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

g) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B).

More preferably, the silicone(s) are chosen from compounds with the INCI name amodimethicone, such as for example that sold under the trade name XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION by DOW CORNING.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones.

When the amino silicone(s) is (are) present, the total amount or their amount preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols and amino silicones described above.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% by weight and preferably 1% by weight even more preferably at 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

These fatty substances are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids because salified fatty acids are generally soluble soaps in aqueous media.

The fatty substances are chosen in particular from hydrocarbons of C ₆ -C ₁₆ or having more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and non-amino silicones.

It is recalled that within the meaning of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms can be chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®.

As an oil of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, more particularly, from those present in vegetable oils such as as, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and their mixtures.

The fluorinated oils can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

As regards fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C aliphatic mono or polyacid esters ₂₆ and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C ₄ -C ₂₂ and of alcohols in C ₁ -C ₂₂ , and the esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₂ -C ₂₆ di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: ethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, myristyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate , 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

More particularly among fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, it is preferred to use fatty acid(s) and fatty alcohol(s) esters.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid sugars, preferably C ₁₂ -C _{22 fatty} acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arahinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyls, such as methyl derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , linear fatty acids. or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmitostearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid sugar esters: of the products sold under the names F160. F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by Crodesta, respectively designating sucrose palmito-stearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di- , tri-, and tetra-ester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra-ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The wax or waxes capable of being used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as waxes of bees. or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under the reference M82, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The non-amino silicones that can be used as additional fatty substances in the composition according to the invention can be solid or liquid, volatile or non-volatile.

Silicones are in particular described in detail in Walter NOLL's work "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

The volatile non-amino silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260° C. (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from:
i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as:

• octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethyl–cyclopentasiloxane.

Mention may be made of the products sold under the name "VOLATIL-E SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

• cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type with a chemical structure:

Mention may be made of "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

• mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 −6 m2/s at 25° C., such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; mention may be made of the product marketed under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE.

Among the non-volatile non-amino silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or even organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups different from an amino group, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylene groups , thiol groups, alkoxylated groups, hydroxylated groups, and aryl groups.

The organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organo-functional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methyl-phenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl-siloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500 oils , L 77, L 711 from UNION CARBIDE; or alternatively (C12)alkyl-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
- hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732;
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”.

Non-amino silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- oils of the 200 series from DOW CORNING, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products marketed under the names “ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801” by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) siloxanes.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- BAYER's PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from paraffin oils (or oil minerals), esters of fatty alcohol(s) and fatty acid(s) such as myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

When one or more fatty substances other than fatty alcohols and amino silicones is (are) present, the total amount or amounts preferably range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The water content is preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, better still ranges from 60 to 95% by weight, even better ranges from 70 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2 to 12, preferably from 2.5 to 7, preferentially from 3 to 6, and better still from 3.5 to 5.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents usually used. Among the basifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, inorganic or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as for example acetic acid, tartaric, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from linear or branched C ₂ to C ₄ monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycerol, and aromatic alcohols or ethers. such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

The composition according to the present invention preferably has a viscosity greater than 1000 mPa.s, preferentially greater than 2000 mPa.s, in particular between 2000 and 10,000, better still between 3000 and 8000, even better still between 4000 and 7000 mPa.s.

The viscosity can be measured using a rheometer such as a Rheomat 180 (Mettler) fitted with a spindle 3 (200 revolutions/min, 25° C., measurement at 30 s).

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners or viscosity regulators, natural or synthetic; UV filters; fillers such as nacres, titanium dioxide, resins and clays; the perfumes ; peptizers; vitamins; and conservatives.

The person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the composition of the present invention, in particular in terms of fibrous texture after mixing and stability of this effect in the time.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of conditioning, of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said fibers a composition as described previously.

According to a particular embodiment of the method, the composition is applied directly to damp hair.

According to a second embodiment, the composition is kneaded in the palms of the hands to obtain a stringy texture which is then applied to damp hair.

This step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be preceded by at least one step of washing said fibers using a shampoo.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a rinsing step. Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a rinsing step.

Furthermore, this step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a drying step.

A subject of the present invention is also a use of the composition as described above, for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibres.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention is used as a hair mask.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however presenting a limiting character.

Examples

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention were prepared from the following ingredients. The proportions are indicated in% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition 1 2 Cetearyl alcohol 11.15 8 1,3-Butylene glycol 2 2 PEG-90M 0.2 0.2 Cetrimonium chloride 0.8 - Behentrimonium chloride - 4.7 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate 1.35 - Amodimethicone (Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion) 0.97 1.7 Mineral oil (MINERAL OIL) 2 - CETYL ESTERS 1 1.5 Glycerin - 3 Isopropanol - 1 conservatives qs qs Water qsp 100 100

The compositions are stable over time (storage stability at 25° C. or at 45° C. for two months). Their viscosity remains stable and their capacity to generate threads is preserved, after 2 months at 45°C.

After application to the hair, followed by rinsing, it is found that the compositions thus give it ease of disentangling, softness and discipline.

They allow a control of frizz, and also bring shine.

Claims (16)

Cosmetic composition comprising
(a) an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty alcohols,
(b) one or more diols of molecular weight less than 1000,
(c) one or more polyethylene glycols comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units, and
(d) one or more cationic surfactants. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is non-liquid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol or alcohols are present in a total quantity ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diol(s) with a molecular weight of less than 1000 are chosen from propylene glycol (or 1,2-propanediol), dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,3-butanediol (or butylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol, octane l-2 diol, 2 -methyl-1,3-propane diol and mixtures thereof, preferably it is butylene glycol. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diol or diols with a molecular weight of less than 1000 are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyethylene glycol(s) comprise from 50,000 to 100,000 oxyethylene units. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyethylene glycol(s) comprising from 10,000 to 200,000 oxyethylene units are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.075% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio (b)/(c) is greater than 1, preferably ranges from 2 to 20, better still from 5 to 15, better still from 8 to 12 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), and mixtures thereof,
(II)
in which the groups R ₁ to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₄ denoting an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups possibly comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates;

(V)
in which :
R ₁₅ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R ₁₆ is chosen from:
- the group
- the R ₂₀ groups which are hydrocarbon groups in
C ₁ -C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,
- the hydrogen atom,
R ₁₈ is chosen from:
- the group
- R ₂₂ groups which are C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,
- the hydrogen atom,
R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
r, s and t, identical or different, are integers equal to 2
at 6;
y is an integer from 1 to 10;
x and z, identical or different, are integers with a value of 0
at 10;
X ^- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₁₆ denotes R ₂₀ and that when z is 0 then R ₁₈ denotes R ₂₂ . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from salts such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and their mixtures. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more amino silicone(s), preferably chosen from amodimethicones. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more additional fatty substances other than fatty alcohols and amino silicones, preferably chosen from hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably from paraffin oils and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular for conditioning, of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said fibers the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.