FR2989883A1 - Composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion useful for e.g. treating hair in presence/absence of heat for its conditioning, comprises aqueous phase dispersed in fatty phase, surfactants, and fatty-chain silanes and/or their oligomers - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, surfactants, and fatty-chain silanes and/or their oligomers. Composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, surfactants, and fatty-chain silanes having a structure of formula (R1Si(OR2) z(R3) x(OH) y) (I) and/or their oligomers. R1 : 7-8C linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl; R2, R3 : 1-6C linear or branched alkyl; and either y, z : 0-3; or x : 0-2; or z+x+y : 3.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a composition for the treatment of keratin materials in the form of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion, containing one or more fatty-chain silanes. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The subject of the present invention is also the use of said composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, as well as the use of said composition for treating and / or caring for the skin. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using such a composition.

To condition the hair and in particular to control the volume of hair, it is common to use styling creams based on fats, polymers, including cationic, as well as compositions based on silicones and / or cationic surfactants. However these solutions are often unsustainable in the day, the effects fading over time. In addition, these formulas often provide a greasy feel that transfers into the hands and onto the hair. The hair appears fat or dirty. Moreover, in the cosmetic field, it is common to use creams consisting of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. These emulsions comprise a continuous oily phase and thus make it possible to form on the surface of the skin a lipidic film which prevents the loss of transepidermal water and protects the skin from external aggressions. These emulsions are particularly suitable for protecting and nourishing the skin, and in particular for treating dry skin.

However, these emulsions because of their "heavy" texture lack freshness and fluidity and are difficult to work with. They leave on the skin a greasy and sticky film. In addition, if one increases the amount of internal phase (aqueous) so as to bring more freshness and a touch less fat, it results in obtaining creams often compact and difficult to spread.

There is therefore a need for compositions that provide a satisfactory cosmetic feel of the skin and hair. From the international patent application VVO 2004/012691 is known the cosmetic use of silanes for the improvement of the condition of the hair. The patent application EP 0 159 628 proposes compositions for strengthening the elasticity of the hair, comprising an alkyltrialkoxysilane.

Furthermore, the patent application EP 1 736 139 describes a hair treatment composition comprising an alkoxysilane, an organic acid and water, the pH of the composition being between 2 and 5. Finally, the patent application EP No. 0 877 027 discloses a composition comprising an organosilane and a particular polyol. The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, a composition in the form of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion comprising a particular silane with a fatty chain makes it possible to provide an improved cosmetic feel to the skin and the hair.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said composition comprising: one or more fatty-chain silanes of following formula (I) and / or their oligomers: Si (OR2), (R3) x (OH) y (I) formula (I) in which - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, R 2 and R 3, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3; z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3; and - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, - with z + x + y = 3.

Another subject of the invention consists of a composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, obtainable from one or more surfactants and from one or more fatty-chain silanes of formula (I) and / or their oligomers. This particular combination makes it possible to obtain an easy-to-apply composition and makes it possible to provide a soft touch to keratin materials. It allows in particular to give a smooth, natural and soft touch to the fibers after disentangling. Another subject of the invention consists of a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin or the hair using a composition according to the invention.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for the conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair. The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment and / or care of the skin.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. The inverse emulsions (Water / Oil) according to the invention are true emulsions thus thermodynamically unstable to distinguish microemulsions which are thermodynamically stable systems. The size of the droplets of the dispersed phase of the emulsions of the invention is preferably between 10 nm and 100 μm and preferably between 200 nm and 50 μm. This is the average diameter D (3.2) measurable, in particular using a laser granulometer.

Preferably, the concentration of liquid fatty substances in the composition of the invention may range from 5% to 90%, preferably from 7% to 50%, still more preferably from 7% to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The fatty-chain silane or silanes that can be used in the composition according to the invention are those corresponding to the following formula (I): Si (OR 2), (R 3) x (OH) y (I) in which - R 1 represents an alkyl group or linear or branched alkenyl, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 and R3 identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, - with z + x + y = 3, By oligomer is meant the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms. Preferably, R 3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl groups.

Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group. Preferably, R 1 represents an alkyl group, more preferably a linear alkyl group, and even more preferably an octyl group. Preferably z ranges from 1 to 3. Even more preferably z is equal to 3. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one alkoxysilane chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane. More particularly, the composition comprises octyltriethoxysilane (OTES). The silane (s) of formula (I) and / or their oligomers are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. better from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may comprise other liquid fatty substances different from the silanes of formula (I) and their oligomers. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably greater than 1%). more preferably to 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as chloroform, ethanol or benzene. Liquid fats are understood to mean fats which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (780 mmHg). The additional fatty substances of the invention are chosen in particular from liquid fatty alcohols, silicone oils, C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable oils of the triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, liquid fatty esters other than triglycerides, fluorinated oils, non-salified fatty acids, silanes other than the compounds of formula (I). These liquid fatty substances are not etherified with oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups. The "liquid fatty alcohols" more generally referred to as "oils" are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing 010-034 have branched carbon chains or have one or more unsaturations, preferably 1 to 3 unsaturations. The liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched and / or unsaturated, and preferably contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH, in which R preferably denotes a branched alkyl group at 0-12-024 or alkenyl at 0-12-024. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. By way of example, mention may be made of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2- hexy-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and their mixture (s). Preferably the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol. The fatty alcohols can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species including different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture. The liquid fatty esters which can be used according to the present invention and which are different from the triglycerides can be esters of monoalcohols or of polyols which are different from glycerol with mono or polyacids, at least one of the alcohols and / or acids comprising at least one chain of more than 7 carbon atoms. Preferably, the liquid fatty ester according to the invention is chosen from fatty acid and monoalcohol esters. Preferably, at least one of the alcohols and / or acids is branched. As examples of liquid fatty esters according to the invention, mention may be made of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate. , 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate. The fatty acids that can be used as liquid fatty substances of the invention must not be salified in the composition, that is to say they must not be in the presence of a mineral or organic alkalizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, ammonia. Oleic acid may be mentioned as the fatty acid that can be used.

The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are in the form of oils. Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS).

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula: ## STR1 ## with D ": Si-O-I with D ': Si Examples of cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy are also mentioned. -1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a lower viscosity or equal to 5.10-6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company Toray Silicone, silicones falling into this class, and CH 3 D "D '. D "D '-1 are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by Dow Corning; The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made by way of example of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified liquid silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted amino groups or non-alkoxylated groups, preferably silicones as liquid fatty substances are not organomodified. As regards the C6-C16 hydrocarbons, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic and preferably alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® . As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene. Triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soy, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® . The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTECO PC1" and "FLUTECO P03" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 50500" and "PF 50600" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 50520" by the company 3M. Preferably, the additional liquid fatty substance is chosen from silicone oils and liquid fatty alcohols. Even more preferentially, the additional liquid fatty substance is chosen from silicone oils. The emulsions of the invention may comprise one or more other solid additional fat bodies. More particularly, the additional solid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones other than the liquid silicones of the invention. In particular, the composition of the invention may contain one or more solid fatty esters at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms. carbon, and saturated fatty monoalcohols having at least 10 carbon atoms. Saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched. The saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be optionally hydroxylated. The saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty esters are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, cetyl and stearyl myristyl stearates and mixtures thereof. The composition of the invention may contain one or more solid fatty alcohols at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 12 to 40, more preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols solid at room temperature suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from: lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1 dodecanol); - myristic or myristyl alcohol, (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol, (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol, (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol, (1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol, (1-docosanol); - lignocyl alcohol, (1-tetracosanol); - Ceryl alcohol, (1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol, (1-octacosanol); - myricylic alcohol, (1-triacontanol); and their mixtures. More particularly, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. The inverse emulsion of the invention may also comprise silicones other than liquid silicones, for example silicones in the form of waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the non-liquid silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. The silicone gums which can be used according to the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. These gums are, for example, mixtures such as: mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R25i0212, R35i01 / 2, R5iO3 / 2 and 5i0412 wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. Among the additional organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, for instance the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

The inverse emulsion according to the invention may have an additional fatty substance content ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the weight. of the emulsion.

The inverse emulsion composition of the invention comprises one or more surfactants. As examples of surfactants, mention may be made of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from -C (O) OH, -C (O) O-, -SO3H, -S (O) 20-, -OS (O) 20H, -SO (O) 20- , -P (O) OH2, -P (O) 20-, -P (O) O2-, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O, = P (O) 0-, = POH, = PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoesters alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl acid salts amidoether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of alkyl monoesters of 06-024 and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from alkyl polyglycoside-citrates at 06024, alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates at 06-024 and alkyl polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. 06-024.

When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine and the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-one. propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, alkyl (C 6 -C 24) ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal or ammonium salts. , aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, it is preferred to use (C 12 -C 20) alkyl sulphates, C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohol , and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that can be used in the present invention are preferably non-silicones. They may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamid (C 6 -C 8) alkyl sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of the following respective structures (A1) and (A2): Ra-C (O) -NH-CH2 -CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C (O) O-, M +, X (A1) Formula (A1) in which: - Ra represents a C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - R, represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X are absent; - Ra-C (O) -NH-CH 2 -CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (A2) Formula (A2) in which: B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-X'; B 'represents the group - (CH2), Y', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-CH2-C (O) OZ ', or hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra, represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-C (O) OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in O17 and its iso form, an unsaturated 017 group. These compounds of formula (A1) and (A2) are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOLO 02M Concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (A'2); Ra-NH-CH (Y ") - (CH2) nC (O) -NH- (CH2) n -N (Rd) (Re) (B'2) Formula wherein: - Y" represents the group -C (0) OH, -C (O) OZ-, -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z-; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical. Z represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion. derived from an organic amine; - Re represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-C (O) OH, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil. and n ', independently of one another, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3 Among the compounds of formula (A'2) there may be mentioned the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of alkyl (08-020) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidoalkyl (C 3 -C C8) betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine compounds of formula (B'2) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name) sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide) and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine. The cationic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (A3): X (A3) Formula (A3) in which: R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8 to R11 contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylaryl- sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 may further comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (02-06), C3-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, alkyl radicals. (C12-C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X- is an anionic counterion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or ( C1-C4 alkyl) arylsulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A3), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYLO 70 by VAN DYK; the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of the following formula (A4): R 1, N N 7,, CH 2 CH 2 -N (R 15) -CO-R 12 R, (A4) Formula (A4) in which: R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids; R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; - R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group; - R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group; X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates; . Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REVVOQUATO VV 75 by the company REVVO; the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of the following formula (A5): ## STR2 ## wherein R 17 R16 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 17 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a), X-; R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and 17 2 + 2X "-X-, which may be identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4) alkyls ) - or alkyl (C1-C4) arylsulphonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate - Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of the following formula (A6): ## STR2 ## R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 2 3 is chosen from: ## STR2 ## the group R 26 C - - - linear C 2 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: o - - the group R28 C- - - the groups R29 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon compounds, - - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers of from 2 to 6, r1 and t1 which are identical or different, equal to 0 or 1 with r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t - y is an integer from 1 to 10, - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X represents an anionic counterion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15 that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cil-021 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated Cil-021 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 .

The anionic counterion X is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate; (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anionic counterion X is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (A6) are used more particularly in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0, and - R, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: o - the group R2- - C-- - the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups at 014-022, - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: 0 - the group R2- c --- - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C13-017 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Examples of the compounds of formula (A6) include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or with transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUARTO by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUATO by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REVVOQUATO VVE 18 by the company REVVOVVITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride. dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and (C1-C20) alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 atoms. carbon number, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 1 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide copolymers and propylene, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-derivatives and the like. alkylglucamine and N-acyl-methylglucamine, aldobionamides, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones and amine oxides and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise a surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters and polyols. By "fatty acid esters and polyols" according to the invention is meant fatty acid esters (or fatty acid polymers) and polyol in which the fatty acid comprises an alkyl chain at 06-022, preferably at 016-020, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid can also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer 12-hydroxystearic acid). In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a 0-16-020 fatty acid ester of glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of 0-16-020 linear or branched chain fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a 0-16-020 fatty acid polymer is poly12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, poly12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof are used. By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 1 1, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6. According to one particular embodiment, the acid ester fatty acid and polyol contains 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta). -, oligoglycerols). Even more preferably, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 mole 20 'or units) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol. According to a preferred embodiment, said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (C10), and polyol. As examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid and polyol esters and their mixtures, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl 4 -sostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134® by the company Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI® by the company Cognis; polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA® by the Nihon emulsion company; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1-IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); polyglyceryl 4-diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniqema, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690® by Uniqema, PEG-30 dipolyhydrostearate sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof The composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably from 0-16-020, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and from polyol selected from glycerol and / or sorbitan.

The nonionic surfactants may also be chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. As examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated 08-030 alcohols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated amides 08-030; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, 08-030 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; 08-030 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol; vegetable oils oxyethylenated, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; - and their mixtures. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide. By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula (A7): R 2 90 4 CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] --H (A 7) Formula (A 7) in which: R 29 represents a linear or branched C8-C40, preferably C8-C30, alkyl or alkenyl radical; and - m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.

By way of example of compounds of formula (A7) suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), alcohol cetearyl to 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol of formula (A7) can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several polyglycerolated fatty alcohol species can coexist in the form of a mixed. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 / C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 mole of glycerol.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and more particularly polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxanes in which the polyoxyalkylene group represents an alternating sequence of oxygen atoms and linear or branched alkylene groups, in particular C2 to C10, preferably C2 to C6 and more preferably C2 and or C3 (respectively ethylene and propylene), the number of alkylene groups being between 1 and 100, preferably between 5 and 50 and more preferably between 10 and 10; and 40. By way of example, mention may be made of the PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone type silicones proposed under the designation 52250 by Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixed alkyl / polyoxyalkylene polydimethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl group is a linear or branched chain of from 8 to 30, preferably from 0 to 12, and the polyoxyalkylene group an alternating sequence of oxygen atoms and alkylene groups. linear or branched, in 02 to 010, preferably 02 to 06 and more preferably 02 and or 03 (respectively ethylene and propylene), the number of alkylene groups being between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 30 and more preferentially between 5 and 15, the distribution of the groups being such that the ethylene groups are the most numerous. By way of example, mention may be made of the silicones of Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone type as proposed under the name ABIL EM 90 by Evonik. Preferably, the surfactant used in the composition of the invention is a surfactant. mono or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic, especially mono or polyoxyethylenated, mono or polyoxypropylenated, or a combination thereof, more particularly mono or polyoxyethylenated.

Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants. More particularly, the surfactant (s) present in the composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants. More preferably, the surfactant is a polyoxyethylenated silicone. In the inverse emulsion of the invention, the amount of the surfactant (s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 0 to 50% by weight. , 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise an additional emulsifying compound, also called co-emulsifier. The additional emulsifier may be chosen, for example, from succinic-terminated polyolefins. As succinically terminated polyolefins, mention may be made in particular of esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises also one or more salts selected from organic or inorganic salts. Preferably the salt or salts are inorganic salts of mono or divalent metal cations and in particular sodium, calcium or magnesium, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride or magnesium sulfate. Preferably, the concentration of salts of organic or inorganic metals can vary from 0.01 to 20%, better still from 0.1 to 10%, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

The composition of the invention may comprise at least 30% water, preferably 50 to 95% water, more preferably 55 to 90% water, and still more preferably 60 to 85% water by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may contain one or more organic solvents which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). In addition to the silicones and the non-siliceous liquid fatty substances described above, the liquid organic solvent (s) may be chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol. polyols and polyol ethers such as propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, 03-04 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C 1 -C 4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the solvent is ethanol. Advantageously, the composition is aqueous or hydro-alcoholic. When the alcohol is present, its proportion is in particular between 1 and 99% by weight, preferably between 5 and 90% by weight and even more preferably between 10 and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition according to the invention if it is aqueous generally varies from 2 to 9, and in particular from 3 to 8. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalinizing agents usually used in cosmetics for this purpose. type of application or even using conventional buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, there may be mentioned, for example, the organic acids already mentioned above or the mineral acids. By "mineral acid" is meant any acid derived from a mineral compound. Among the mineral acids, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulphonic acids and nitric acid.

It will be possible to use inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula: Ra, _Rb NWN "Re / Rd in which VV is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, Ra, Rb, R, and Rd, identical or different, represent an atom hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group. Preferably, the pH adjusting agents may be chosen from alkaline agents such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol or acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid, the composition of the invention may be present in the form of foam, emulsion g el, serum, cream, paste, wax.

The composition may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol device. When packaged in an aerosol type device, the liquid phase / propellant weight ratio of the pressurized composition of the present invention is preferably between 50 and 0.05, and in particular between 50 and 1.

For aerosol formulations, any liquefiable gas usually used in aerosol devices will be used as propellant. In particular, use will be made of dimethyl ether, chlorinated and / or fluorinated halides, halogenated or non-halogenated and volatile, usually used in aerosol devices. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air or mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant. Preferably, the compound (s) constituting the propellant gas used are chosen from non-halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes, and in particular chlorinated and / or or fluorinated, such as 1,1-difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the propane gas alkane (s) are non-halogenated. Even more preferably, the propellant is dimethyl ether or a mixture of propane, n-butane and isobutane. In the case of foam aerosols, the composition introduced into the aerosol device may for example be in the form of a lotion, dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form foams to be applied to the keratin materials. These foams must be stable enough not to liquefy quickly and must also disappear quickly, either spontaneously or during the massage used to penetrate and / or distribute the composition on keratin materials and more particularly the hair and / or hair . In the case of foam aerosols, the composition according to the invention may further contain at least one cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant as described above.

The propellant gas is present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging preferably from 1 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. The aerosol device used to condition the composition of the invention may be in two compartments, consisting of an external aerosol container having an inner bag hermetically sealed to a valve. The composition is introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to release the product in the form of a spray through the orifice of a nozzle. Such a device is marketed for example under the name EP SPRAY by the company EP-SPRAY SYSTEM SA. Said compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar, more preferably between 9 and 11 bar. The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional compounds chosen from ceramides, and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens, silicones or non-silicones, pearlescent agents. and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, anti-foam agents, cationic polymers, fixing polymers, plasticizers, silanes other than those of formula (I), chitosans and derivatives, mineral and organic thickeners, agents antioxidants, hydroxyacids, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic or anti-greas agents, hair loss and / or regrowth agents, penetrating agents, perfumes, peptizers, amino acids and preservatives, bleaching agents skin, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-scald agents, moisturizers, anti-aging agents, self-tanning agents , or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. Any method for preparing a water-in-oil emulsion usually used in the field can be used to obtain the composition of the invention. In particular, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and H HP. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above.

According to a first embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Whether in rinsed mode or in rinsed mode, the application of the composition can be done in the presence of heat. The heater may be a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The heating temperature may be between 40 and 220 ° C, especially at 200 ° C. The application of the composition according to the invention to hair can be done on dry hair or wet hair. It can in particular be carried out after shampooing or after pretreatment at acidic or basic pH.

The application of the composition of the invention may also be followed by a post-treatment at acidic or basic pH, followed in particular by drying at ambient temperature or by heat-drying, by means of a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The composition of the invention can be applied to the hair in combination with chemical treatments such as oxidation, reduction, buffer solutions or mechanical treatments. According to a second embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, which consists in applying to the skin an effective amount of a composition as described above.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES In the following examples, all the amounts are indicated as a percentage by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention are prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.

Composition 1: Octyltriethoxysilane 15% PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (1) 1.5% CaCl 2 1% Water qs 100% (1) product sold under the name 5225C by the company Dow Corning.

Composition 2: Octyltriethoxysilane 10% PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (1) 1.5% NaCl 2% Water Qs 100% (1) product sold under the name 5225C by the company Dow Corning.

Compositions 1 and 2 are applied to dry or wet hair at room temperature and without rinsing. After drying, a good conditioning of the hair without visual or tactile fat is obtained. In addition, the fibers have a soft and natural feel and are smooth after disentangling. This composition can also be applied in rinsed mode with similar results.

Composition 3: AA PHASE cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone (Abil EM90 from Goldschmidt) 2.5 Octyltriethoxysilane Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (ISOLAN G134® from Goldschmidt) 1 PEG-30D1 POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (Arlacel P135 from UNIQEMA) 1 lsohexadecane 4 lsononanoate Isononyl Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam of NOF) 4 PHASE B B1 Water QSP Preservatives QS EDTA 0.1 Magnesium sulphate 0.7 Glycerin 5 Butylene glycol 2 B2 Lauryl inulin carbamate (useless SP1 from ORAFTI 96.5% by weight of active ingredient) 0.29 Propylene glycol 3 C Copolymers of 0.2 vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer expanded with isobutane (EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42 from Akzo Nobel) D Polymer particles crosslinked methylsilanol / silicate (NLK 506 3 from Takemoto Oil & Fat)) The composition 3 according to the invention is prepared as follows: Phase A is prepared by mixing the raw materials with gentle mechanical stirring at 65 ° C. Phase B1 is prepared by mixing the raw materials at 80 ° C. Phase B2 is added to phase B1 with stirring for 1 minute. The emulsion is prepared by slow introduction of the mixture B1-B2 into phase A with vigorous stirring using a Moritz 3500 type homogenizer for 7 minutes. The emulsion obtained is cooled to 45 ° C. and then the phases C and D are added with vigorous stirring. The emulsion obtained is cooled to room temperature with slow stirring. We obtain a cream easy to apply, very soft to the application bringing freshness and immediate hydration. The skin remains soft, fresh non-greasy and matte appearance.

Claims (19)

REVENDICATIONS1. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said composition comprising one or more surfactants and one or more fatty-chain silanes of the following formula (I) and / or their oligomers: Si (OR2), (R3) x (OH) y (I) formula (I) in which - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3; z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3; and - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, - with z + x + y = 3. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably ethyl ethyl group and R3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl groups. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2 characterized in that R1 represents an alkyl group, more preferably a linear alkyl group, and even more preferably an octyl group. 4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that z varies from 1 to 3, preferably z is equal to 3. 5. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises at least one silane of formula (I) selected from octyl-triethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane. 6. Composition according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least octyltriethoxysilane. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silane (s) of formula (I) and / or their oligomers are present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0, 5 to 20% by weight, better still 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the surfactant (s) are anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants and preferably nonionic surfactants. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and (C1-C20) alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups that can range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 1 to 30, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan optionally oxyethylenated, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally alkylpolyglycosides oxyalkylenes, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acyl-methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones and amine oxides and their mixtures. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant is chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylene surfactants, especially mono- or polyoxyethylenated mono- or polyoxypropylenes, or their combination, more particularly mono or polyoxyethylenated, preferably a polyoxyethylenated silicone or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants are present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more Preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one additional liquid fatty substance preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, silicone oils, C6-C16 hydrocarbons and hydrocarbons. to more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable oils of the triglyceride type, triglyceridesynthetics, liquid fatty esters other than triglycerides, fluorinated oils, non-salified fatty acids, silanes other than compounds of formula (I) and even more particularly from silicone oils. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising one or more organic or inorganic salts, in particular one or more inorganic salts of mono or divalent metal cations. 14. Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the salt or salts are present in proportions ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an alkalinizing agent, acidifying, or a buffer. 16. Composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, obtainable from one or more surfactants as described in claims 1, 8 to 11 , and one or more fatty-chain silanes of formula (I) and / or their oligomers as described in claims 1 to 7. 17. A process for the cosmetic treatment of hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials an effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, in the presence or absence of heat. 18. Use of the cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 for the packaging of keratinous fibers, including hair. 19. Use of the cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 for the treatment and / or care of the skin.