FR3130146A1 - Composition comprising cysteine, a particular fatty acid triglyceride and an additional reducing agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising cysteine, a particular fatty acid triglyceride and an additional reducing agent The present invention relates to a composition useful for styling and/or conditioning keratinous fibres, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which comprises cysteine and/or a derivative thereof, a particular fatty acid triglyceride and optionally an additional reducing agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for styling and/or conditioning keratinous fibers using such a composition. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

Composition comprising cysteine, a particular fatty acid triglyceride and an additional reducing agent

The present invention relates to a composition useful for styling and/or conditioning keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which comprises cysteine and/or a derivative thereof, a fatty acid triglyceride particular and optionally an additional reducing agent.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for styling and/or conditioning keratinous fibers using such a composition.

Many people are unhappy with the way their hair looks and find it difficult to style it. Curly hair is particularly difficult to comb and detangle, which takes a lot of time and effort for a result that is disappointing most of the time.

In addition, the hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, but also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and/or smoothing. The hair is therefore damaged by these different factors and can, over time, become dry, rough or dull, especially in fragile areas.

Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is customary to use care compositions which condition the hair in an appropriate manner, by giving it satisfactory conditioning properties, in particular in terms of softness, shine, suppleness, lightness, natural feel and good detangling properties.

These compositions for the hair can be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks or serums, and can be in the form of gels, hair lotions or more or less thick care creams. These compositions can be rinse-out compositions or leave-in compositions.

These compositions generally comprise a combination of cationic conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and/or fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, in order to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of softness, smoothness and suppleness.

However, these conditioning agents, and in particular the fatty alcohols, often have the disadvantage of making the hair very soft and heavy, which leads to the phenomenon commonly called "dullness". In other words, fatty alcohols are deposited in large quantities on the hair, which has the effect of making it soft, greasy and dull.

Nevertheless, eliminating or reducing these fats decreases the conditioning effects, and therefore the conditioning properties of the hair.

Most of these compositions also include silicones. Indeed, these compounds are known to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular in terms of softness and suppleness (as shown in JP 48(1973)-19941, JP 56(1986)-92808, and US 5,374,421). However, several disadvantages remain. For example, hair treated with these compositions remains limp and sticky, and may exhibit poor combability.

There is therefore a real need to develop compositions which do not have the disadvantages described above, that is to say which are capable of improving the conditioning properties of the hair, in particular in terms of combability when dry and when dry. wet, suppleness, softness, manageability and shine, without overwhelming the hair or causing a greasy feel or look.

The compositions also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of hair, particularly curly to frizzy hair, while reducing tangles and preventing fiber breakage or damage.

It has now been discovered that a composition, comprising cysteine and/or one of its derivatives in combination with a particular fatty acid triglyceride, makes it possible to achieve the objectives described above. In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a combination is easier to comb and detangle and has better conditioning properties, especially in terms of softness, suppleness and shine. The hair is also easier to comb and has less breakage. These benefits are also sustainable.

Thus, the object of the invention is in particular a composition comprising:

(i) cysteine and/or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and alkyl esters of cysteine and salts thereof,

(ii) one or more triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms in a total quantity greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

(iii) optionally one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

the pH of said composition ranging from 7.5 to 10.

The composition of the present invention is capable of improving the conditioning properties of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in particular in terms of shine, softness, smoothness and suppleness while giving the hair good wet and dry combability and improved workability.

The hair, in particular curly hair, thus treated with the composition of the present invention is easier to comb and allows the consumer to obtain the desired hairstyle.

The composition of the present invention also respects the integrity of the fibers and provides a better moisturizing effect. Hair is also healthier and stronger, making it more resistant to combing and detangling.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for styling and/or conditioning keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined previously, and after a laying optional, optionally to be removed by rinsing.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follow.

In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

(i) Cysteine

The composition according to the present invention comprises cysteine and/or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and alkyl esters of cysteine and salts thereof.

The total amount of cysteine and / or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and alkyl esters of cysteine, present in the composition according to the present invention, is preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably this total amount ranges from 0.05 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(ii) Fatty Acid Triglyceride

The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms.

The useful fatty acid triglyceride(s) according to the present invention may be derived from triglycerides of plant origin, such as vegetable oils, or from triglycerides of synthetic origin.

Preferably, the fatty acid triglyceride(s) contain(s) from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the vegetable oils that can be used according to the invention comprise more than 50% by weight of triglyceride(s) of fatty acids containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14, more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. of carbon.

Advantageously, the fatty acid triglyceride(s) is (are) chosen from coconut oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, palm kernel oil, babassu oil, cuphea oil and mixtures of these.

The total quantity of triglyceride(s) of fatty acid (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, which are present in the composition according to the present invention, is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition. Preferably, the total amount of triglyceride(s) of fatty acids (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms ranges from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

The weight ratio (R) between the total quantity of triglyceride(s) of fatty acids (ii) containing from 6 to 16 and the total quantity of cysteine and/or of one of its derivatives (i), present in the composition according to the present invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1. More preferably, this weight ratio (R) ranges from 1 to 20, and better still from 2 to 15.

(iii) Additional reducing agents

The composition according to the present invention optionally comprises one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other words, the total quantity of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), when they are present in the composition of the invention, is less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i).

The additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), are preferably chosen from thiol reducing agents, different from cysteine or its derivatives (i), non-thiol reducing agents and mixtures of these.

The term “thiol reducing agent” denotes a reducing agent containing at least one thiol group. Examples of thiol reducing agent(s) other than cysteine or its derivatives (i) correspond to thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and derivatives thereof, in particular C ₁ -C ₄ acylated derivatives thereof such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and derivatives thereof, in particular its esters; as well as salts thereof.

The term "non-thiol reducing agent" means a reducing agent which does not contain a thiol group. Examples of non-thiol reducing agent(s) are sulphites, sulphite derivatives, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, dihydroxybenzene derivatives, reductones, hydrides, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives , EDTA, panthenol, selenium sulfide, zinc formosulfoxylate and mixtures thereof.

The additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), are preferably chosen from non-thiol reducing agents and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sulphites, sulphite derivatives , ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The term “sulfite derivatives” essentially denotes bisulfites and diesters of sulfites of formula RO—SO ₂ —R′, R and R′ representing C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups.

The term "ascorbic acid derivatives" essentially refers to erythorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside.

The tocopherols which can be used in the present invention include, for example, alpha tocopherol, beta tocopherol, gamma tocopherol and delta tocopherol, while the term "tocopherol derivatives" essentially refers to esters of tocopherols, such as tocopherol acetate.

The additional reducing agents (iii) can be used in particular in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium and calcium salts, salts of ammonium, amine salts and amino alcohol salts.

In a particularly preferred manner, the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), are chosen from alkali metal sulphites, alkali metal bisulphites, precursors of these sulphites or bisulphites , and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional reducing agents (iii) are selected from sodium sulphite, sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulphite and mixtures thereof.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) are chosen from sulphites, sulphite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional reducing agents (iii) according to this embodiment, correspond to a mixture of at least two distinct non-thiol reducing agents, in which preferably:

- at least one is chosen from sulphites, derivatives of sulphites and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sulphites of alkali metals, bisulphites of alkali metals, precursors of these sulphites or bisulphites, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from sodium sulphite, sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulphite and mixtures thereof, and

- the other is chosen from ascorbic acid, derivatives of ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from ascorbic acid, alpha-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, erythorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, ascorbyl phosphate of magnesium, ascorbyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

The total quantity of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, is less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.15 to 0 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), are chosen from sulphites, sulphite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, and the total amount of sulphites, sulphite derivatives, ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives, present in the composition according to the invention, is less than or equal to 1% by weight, of preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.15 to 0, 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio (Ra) between the total amount of cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) and the total amount of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i), when they are present in the composition according to the present invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1. More preferably, this weight ratio (Ra) ranges from 1 to 15, and better still from 2 to 10.

Additional fats

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additional fatty substances, different from the fatty acid triglycerides (ii) previously described.

By “fatty substance”, is meant an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less at 0.1%). They carry in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane .

Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or non-salified carboxylic acid group (-C(O)OH or -C(O) ^O- ). In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.

The term “non-silicone fatty substance” denotes a fatty substance containing no silicon (Si) atom and the term “silicone fatty substance” denotes a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the additional fatty substance(s), different from fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, are chosen from C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides other than the fatty acid triglycerides (ii) previously described, fluorinated oils, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or alcohols fats other than triglycerides, vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes, silicones and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that, in the context of the invention, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted , in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

One hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride different from the fatty acid triglyceride (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 18 to 30 carbon atoms, for example sunflower oil, corn oil , soybean oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as ^Parleam® .

The fluorinated oils can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names ^Flutec® PC1 and ^Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF ^5050® and PF ^5060® by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyle sold under the name ^Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF ^5052® by the company 3M.

The non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols which can be used in the composition according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples may include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecyl-pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

The wax(es) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is (are) chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax , or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

As regards the esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of the esters of C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched, and aliphatic C ₁ to C ₂₆ mono or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, stearate hexyl, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C ₄ to C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ to C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₂ to C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxyalcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, preference is given to using ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as myristate isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ to C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which comprise several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ to C 30 and preferably C 6 to C ₃₀ fatty acids. _C12 to _C22 . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates or arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as , in particular, mixed oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and diesters are used and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name ^Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of fatty acid sugar esters or ester mixtures that may also be mentioned include:

- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively designating sucrose palmitates/stearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% di- and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, and 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester, triester and polyester;

- mono-dipalmitate/sucrose stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name ^Tegosoft® PSE.

The silicones that can be used according to the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes including at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's work "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:

(I) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile ^Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1' -bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes carrying terminal trimethylsilyl groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

- Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000,

- the oils of the Mirasil ^® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- 200 series oils from Dow Corning, such as DC200, the viscosity of which is 60,000 mm ² /s;

- ^Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups called dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.

In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil ^Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydialkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) siloxanes.

The silicone gums which can be used according to the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses, of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

The products which can be used more particularly according to the invention are mixtures such as:

- mixtures formed of a polydimethylsiloxane with hydroxy or dimethiconol termination (CTFA), and of a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;

- mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500,000, dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The SF 1236 product is a mixture of an SE 30 rubber defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5×10 ^-6 m²/s. This product preferably includes 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:

R ₂ SiO _2/2 , R ₃ SiO _1/2 , RSiO _3/2 and SiO _4/2 ,

in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are silicones with a dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type, sold in particular under the references X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

The organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10 ⁻⁵ to 5×10 ⁻² m ² /s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, the examples that can be cited include the products sold under the following names:

- Silbione ^® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- the oils of the ^Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- Bayer's PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;

- certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:

- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. Substituted amino groups are in particular C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl groups;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil ^Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.

The silicones which can be used in the composition of the present invention can also be chosen from amino silicones.

The term “amino silicone” designates any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25° C.), in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are styragel µ columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 mL/min. 200 µL of a 0.5% by weight silicone solution in THF are injected. The detection is carried out by refractometry and by UV-metry.

Throughout the text below, the term "silicone" is intended to designate, according to what is generally accepted, any polymer or oligomer of organosilicon of linear or cyclic structure, branched or cross-linked, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and formed essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are bonded together together with oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups being directly bonded through a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon groups are the alkyl groups, in particular the C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups and in particular the methyl, the fluoroalkyl groups whose alkyl part is in C ₁ -C ₁₀ , and the aryl groups and in particular the phenyl.

Suitable silicone amines which can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched silicone amines, with a viscosity ranging from 5×10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, for example from 1×10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, the amine silicone(s) is (are) chosen from:

a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (I):

in which x' and y' are whole numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5,000 and 500,000 g/mol;

b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (II):

R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (II)

in which :

- G, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,

- a and a', identical or different, represent 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,

- b represents 0 or 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; And

- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR''-QN(R'') ₂ ,

-N(R'') ₂ ,

-N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,

-N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- ,

-N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- ,

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- ,

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,

in which R'', which are identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C _r H _2r , r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from silicones called “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone”, corresponding to formula (III):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones of formula (IV) below:

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And

- R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and is more particularly equal to 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly between 3,500 and 200,000 g/mol.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones of formula (V) below:

in which :

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And

- R ₁ and R ₂ , which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000 g/mol, more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 g/mol and in particular from 10,000 to 50,000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) can include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V).

A product containing structural amine silicones (IV) is sold by Wacker under the name ^Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amine silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR ^1300® . Another product containing amino structural silicones (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name of Belsil ADM LOG ^1® .

When using these amino silicones, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions whose mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E ^® or SLM 28020 ^® by the company Wacker can be used according to the invention.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones of formula (VI) below:

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; And

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000 g/mol.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning.

According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones of formula (VII) below:

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; And

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g/mol.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (VIII):

in which

- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , connected to Si by an SiC bond;

- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;

- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; And

- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amine silicones are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

in which :

- R ₇ , which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , connected to Si by an SiC bond;

- R ₈ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl substituent or an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;

- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; And

- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

Such amine silicones are described in particular in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

e) amino silicones of formula (X):

in which :

- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which are identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen so that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of the (AB) _n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which :

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000 and more particularly from 10 to 5,000;

- R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical C ₂ -C ₁₂ , linear or branched, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which are identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably, R denotes a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; And

- R′, which are identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', which are identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50% molar and 95% molar of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70% molar to 85% molar.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000 g/mol.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

g) amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

in which :

- R, R' and R'', identical or different, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And

- m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5,000 and 500,000

in which :

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

Mention may in particular be made of the following divalent groups:

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular mention may be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

The amino silicone(s) is (are) preferably of formula (XII) with:

- x ranging from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

- y ranging from 1 to 100;

- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And

- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may in particular be made of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive.

h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

Or

Or

In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the Shin-Etsu company.

In formula (XV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50,000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

i) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) is (are) chosen from among the amino silicones of formulas (II), (XII) and (XVI) and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen among the silicone amines of formula (XII), and mixtures thereof, and better still the silicone amine (b) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.

Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s), other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, is (are) chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters , triglyceride type vegetable oils other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii), amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

The total quantity of additional fatty substance(s), other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, when it(s) is(are) present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

The total amount of fatty substances (i.e. the sum of the total amount of triglyceride(s) of fatty acids (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms and the total amount of additional fatty substances ( s) optional (s)), present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio (Rb) between the total amount of additional fatty substance(s), other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and the total amount of triglycerides d fatty acids (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, and better still greater than or equal to 2.

Cationic surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

By "cationic surfactant" is meant a surfactant which is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant can bear one or more permanent positive charges or can contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant(s) is (are) preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts , and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C ₈ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain.

The cationic surfactant(s) which may be used in the composition of the present invention are preferably chosen from the following quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof:

- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (XVII) below:

(XVII)

in which the R ₂₈ to R ₃₁ groups, which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₂₈ to R ₃₁ denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens . The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ to C ₆ ), C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ) amido alkyl (C ₂ to C ₆ ), alkyl acetate (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ), hydroxyalkyl C ₁ to C ₃₀ ; X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates .

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XVII), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylceterarylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name of Ceraphyl ^® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is in particular preferable to use the chloride salts of these compounds;

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (XVIII) below:

(XVIII)

in which :

- R ₃₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tallow fatty acids,

- R ₃₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- R ₃₄ represents a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group,

- R ₃₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group,

- X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates and alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R ₃₂ and R ₃₃ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tallow fatty acids, R ₃₄ denotes a methyl group and R ₃₅ denotes an atom of hydrogen. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name ^Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (XIX):

(XX)

in which :

- R ₃₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;

- R ₃₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _36a )(R _37a )(R _38a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ ,

- R _36a , R _37a , R _38a , R ₃₈ , R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ and R ₄₁ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

- X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XX) below:

(XX)

in which :

- R ₄₂ is chosen from C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

- R ₄₃ is chosen from:

- the group

- R ₄₇ groups, which are C ₁ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- a hydrogen atom;

- R ₄₅ is chosen from:

- the group

- R ₄₉ groups, which are C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- a hydrogen atom;

- R ₄₄ , R ₄₆ and R ₄₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- r, s and t, identical or different, are whole numbers ranging from 2 to 6;

- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

- x and z, which may be identical or different, are whole numbers ranging from 0 to 10;

- X ^- is a simple or complex and organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 15, that when x is 0 then R ₄₃ denotes R ₄₇ , and that when z is 0 then R ₄₅ denotes R ₄₉ .

The R ₄₂ alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₄₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10.

When R ₄₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₄₇ , it can be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or can be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₄₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₄₉ , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₄₄ , R ₄₆ and R ₄₈ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C 11 to C ₁₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and more particularly still are equal to 2.

The anion X ⁻ is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function.

The anion X ⁻ is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

The ammonium salts of formula (XX) in which:

R ₄₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group;

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₄₃ is chosen from:

- the group

- methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₄₅ is chosen from:

- the group

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₄₄ , R ₄₆ and R ₄₈ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably from C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Examples which may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (XX) such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methylsulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably a methyl sulphate or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart ^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company CECA or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate.

The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of monoester, diester and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group which are described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.

The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, which can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

The cationic surfactants which may be present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from those of formula (XVII) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.

The total quantity of the cationic surfactant(s), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight. , and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio (Rc) between the total quantity of triglycerides of fatty acids (ii) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and the total quantity of cationic surfactant(s), when it (these) is (are ) present (s) in the composition according to the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably this weight ratio (Rc) ranges from 1 to 10, and better still from 1 to 5.

Organic solvents

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents.

Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, polyols , polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made, as examples of organic solvents which can be used according to the invention, of ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol , benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of organic solvent(s), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.005 to 1% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

Water

The composition according to the present invention may additionally comprise water.

The total amount of water, which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 50 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 55 to 95% by weight, and even better from 60 to 80% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additives other than the compounds of the invention.

As additives which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic, amphoteric, anionic or nonionic polymers, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting their regrowth, vitamins and provitamins other than tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, flavors and preservatives.

It goes without saying that those skilled in the art will take care to select this optional additional compound(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not materially adversely affected by the proposed addition(s).

The aforementioned additives can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention ranges from 7.5 to 10, preferably from 8 to 9.5, more preferably from 8.5 to 9.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of commonly used alkalizing agents or acidifying agents. Examples of alkalizing agents are ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides. Acidifying agents are, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulphonic acids.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises one or more alkaline agents.

Among the alkaline agents which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of aqueous ammonia, (bi)carbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or guanidine, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as derivatives of these, alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates, alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and the compounds of formula (XXI) below:

(XXI)

formula (XXI) in which W is a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylene group, in particular propylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R ₆ , R ₇ , R ₈ and R ₉ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical.

The organic alkaline agent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from organic amines having a pKb at 25° C. of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function having the greatest basicity. In addition, organic amines do not contain an alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) is (are) chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine or ethanolamine, carbonates, in particular guanidine carbonate, silicates, in particular sodium silicate, and mixtures of these.

Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for styling and/or conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined above, and after an optional exposure time, optionally to be removed by rinsing.

The composition can be used as a leave-in product.

After an optional exposure time, the composition can preferably be removed by rinsing with water. The fibers can then be dried or left to dry.

In general, the exposure time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from a few seconds to 12 hours, preferably from 5 seconds to 60 minutes and even better from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, or even better from 10 seconds to 5 minutes .

The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibres, preferably to wet keratinous fibres.

The composition according to the invention is generally applied to dry keratinous materials which have optionally been washed with a shampoo.

In the present invention, the term “keratinous fibres” designates human keratinous fibres, and in particular human hair.

The following example serves to illustrate the invention without however being limiting.

EXAMPLES

In the example which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are given in mass percentages of active ingredient (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

I. Risk of breakage during combing

To. Compositions

The following compositions A1 (invention) and B1 and B2 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of active ingredient (AM)):

A1 (invention) B1 (comparative) B2 (comparative) Oil of Cocos nucifera (coconut) 5 - 5 Cysteine HCl 0.75 0.75 - Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 5 Isononyl isononanoate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride (VARISOFT BT 85 – EVONIK) 3.95 3.95 3.95 Cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters (CRODAMOL MS-PA-(MH)-CRODA) 2.5 2.5 2.5 Prunus armeniana (apricot) seed powder 0.25 0.25 0.25 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (SILSOFT AX-E PMF- MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.4 0.4 0.4 Ethanolamine 0.53 0.53 0.53 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.4 0.4 0.4 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1 0.1 Scent 1 1 1 pH agent Qs pH 8.8 Qs pH 8.8 Qs pH 8.8 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100

Formula pH = 8.8.

b. Protocol

In this mechanical evaluation process, hair fibers are subjected to repeated low amplitude extension cycles until the fiber breaks or the maximum number of cycles set by the operator is reached. At the end of the fatigue test, the life of the fiber is measured. It corresponds to the number of extension cycles that the fiber has endured without breaking.

The tensile mechanical stress that is applied to the fiber can be constant strain, constant force or constant stress. For this analysis, cyclic fatigue tests were carried out at a constant stress of 144 MPa, using a Diastron CYC 801 cyclic fatigue tester. Measurements of the cross-sectional area are carried out using of a fiber dimensional analysis system (FDAS, Diastron) and are used to obtain a correct target stress.

The following protocol was used for each composition A1, B1 and B2 on multi-ethnic virgin hair (4-5 curl pattern) sourced from IHIP:

1. Prepare a 1 g lock of hair.

2. Wash 1 g of hair with 0.4 g of Au Naturale shampoo (commercial product).

3. Dry the sample with a towel

4. Apply 4 g of each composition A1, B1 and B2 to 1 g of damp lock of hair.

5. Leave the treated hair on a hot plate at 31 degrees Celsius (for 15 minutes).

6. Rinse off the treatment after 15 minutes

7. Dry the hair in the cold air, and

8. Comb hair (120 comb strokes)

Steps 2-8 of the above protocol were repeated 5 times (5 treatments and 600 comb strokes).

The following protocol was used as a control on multiethnic virgin hair (4-5 curl pattern) from IHIP:

1. Prepare a 1 g lock of hair.

2. Wash 1 g of hair with 0.4 g of Au Naturale shampoo.

3. Dry the wick with a towel

4. Dry the hair in the cold air, and

5. Comb hair (120 comb strokes).

Steps 2-5 of the control protocol above were repeated 5 times (5 treatments and 600 comb strokes).

vs. Results

The results thus obtained for each composition A1, B1 and B2 are expressed in Table 2 below. The higher the number of cycles before breakage, the more resistant the hair.

A1 (invention) B1 (comparative) B2 (comparative) Witness Average cycle before rupture 6560 5154 4249 4333

The results thus obtained show that the claimed composition A1, which comprises the combination of cysteine with a particular fatty acid triglyceride, makes it possible to strengthen curly hair by increasing the average number of cycles before breaking. Indeed, the number of cycles before breaking is significantly higher when the hair is treated with the claimed composition A1 compared to the comparative compositions B1 and B2 comprising either cysteine or the particular fatty acid triglyceride only.

Thus, the combination of cysteine with at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms provides a synergistic effect regarding the strengthening of curly hair.

II. Ease of combing

To. Compositions

Compositions A1 (invention) and B1 and B2 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 of Example I.

b. Protocol

The combing process measures the combing force of a lock on a Lloyd extensiometer (Ametek Inc, USA). The weaker the force, the easier it is to comb the hair.

A wide-toothed comb attachment, resembling a comb typically used for natural African hair was used. The afro comb had teeth spaced ~3mm apart and was attached to the instrument gantry as shown below. To perform the test, a sample (~1g) is inserted into the center of the comb and the sample is attached to the sensor. The sample is moved by the gantry in a linear translation and the comb forces are measured. This movement is repeated 4 times and the average combing force is used to assess the effectiveness of the tested composition. The weaker the force, the easier it is to comb the hair.

The following protocol was used for each composition A1, B1 and B2 on Curl pattern 7-8 hair from South Africa:

1. Each 1g strand of afro hair was washed with 0.4g Au Naturale shampoo (commercial product) then rinsed.

2. 1 g of each composition A1, B1 and B2 was applied to each gram of damp hair from step 1.

3. Leave the treated hair on a hot plate at 31 degrees Celsius (for 15 minutes).

4. The wick was then rinsed and left to dry for 24 hours at room temperature (±22°C).

Steps 1-4 of the above protocol were repeated 5 times.

A similar protocol including only steps 1, 3 and 4 of the above protocol was used as a control.

At the end of the process, the hair strands were left to air dry for 24 hours and then characterized for combing strength using a Lloyd tensiometer.

vs. Results

The results thus obtained for each composition A1, B1 and B2 are expressed in Table 3 below.

A1 (invention) B1
(comparative) B2
(comparative) Witness Total work required to comb the hair (average in Joules) 1472 2246 1917 2283

The results thus obtained show that the claimed composition A1, which comprises the combination of cysteine with a particular fatty acid triglyceride, improves the styling of very curly hair. Indeed, combing is significantly easier when the hair is treated with the claimed composition A1 compared to comparative compositions B1 and B2 comprising either cysteine or the particular fatty acid triglyceride only.

Thus, the combination of cysteine with at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms provides a synergistic effect regarding the ease of combing of very curly hair.

III. Hair strengthening

To. Composition

The following composition A2 (invention) was prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 4 below (% by weight of active ingredient (AM)):

A2 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 5 Cysteine HCl 0.75 Cetearyl alcohol 5 Isononyl isononanoate 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride (VARISOFT BT 85 -EVONIK) 3.95 Cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters (CRODAMOL MS-PA-(MH)-CRODA) 2.5 Prunus armeniana (apricot) seed powder 0.25 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (SILSOFT AX-E PMF- MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.4 Ethanolamine 0.6 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.4 Tocopherol 0.1 Ascorbic acid 0.2 Sodium metabisulphite 0.2 Scent 1 pH agent Qs pH 8.8 Water Qs 100

Formula pH = 8.8.

b. Protocol

In this mechanical evaluation method, the effect of a formula on reducing the breakage of textured hair fibers is measured by a repeated wet grooming technique. To assess breakage, the process involves holding the loop in one hand over a sheet of paper, then combing it 100 times with a tail comb. Comb strokes must pass quickly along the entire length of the curl, otherwise the comb will get stuck in the hair.

Every 20 strokes of the comb, spray a mist of water on the hair to prevent the curl from drying out (from a distance of 15.25 cm (6 inches), spray a mist of water 3x on each side of the loop).

The broken fibers on the sheet of paper and in the comb are then counted. The control breakage average must not be less than 50 fibres.

The following protocol was used for composition A2 on virgin afro hair (Curl pattern 7-8) from Tsebo Technical Services (South Africa):

1. Prepare a 0.25 g lock of hair.

2. Wash 0.25 g of hair with 0.1 g of “Dark&Lovely 3in1” shampoo (commercial product).

3. Dry the sample with a towel

4. Apply 1 g of composition A2 to 0.25 g of damp lock of hair.

5. Leave the treated hair on a hot plate at 31 degrees Celsius (for 15 minutes).

6. Rinse off the treatment after 15 minutes

7. Dry the sample with a towel and make sure the sample is damp (not wet).

8. Perform a repeated wet toilet

Steps 2 to 8 of the above protocol were repeated 5 times (5 treatments).

A similar protocol including only steps 1, 2, 3 and 8 of the above protocol was used as a control.

vs. Results

The results thus obtained for composition A2 are expressed in Table 5 below.

A2 Witness Cumulative number of broken fibers 164 267

The results thus obtained show that the claimed composition A2, which comprises the combination of cysteine with a particular fatty acid triglyceride, improves the resistance of very curly hair. Indeed, the number of fibers broken during wet combing is significantly lower when the hair is treated with the claimed composition A2 compared to the control.

IV. Compositions according to the present invention

The following compositions A3, A4 and A5 according to the present invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 6 below (% by weight of active ingredient (AM)):

A3 A4 AT 5 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 5 5 5 Cysteine 0.65 0.65 Cysteine HCl 0.75 Cetearyl alcohol 4.5 4.5 4.5 Isononyl isononanoate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride (VARISOFT BT 85 – EVONIK) 3.95 3.95 3.95 Cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters (CRODAMOL MS-PA-(MH)-CRODA) 2 - 2 Prunus armeniana (apricot) seed powder 0.25 0.25 0.25 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (SILSOFT AX-E PMF- MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.4 0.4 0.4 Ethanolamine (Qs) Qs pH 9 Qs pH 9 Qs pH 9 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.4 - 0.4 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1 0.1 PEG-180 2 2 2 Isopropylic alcohol - 0.9 0.9 Dye - qs - Scent 1 1 0.9 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100

Hair treated with compositions A3, A4 and A5 thus obtained is not only easy to detangle and quick to comb, but its manageability for styling is also very good. In addition, compositions A3 and A4 give the hair good conditioning properties, especially in terms of softness and volume. The hair is also strengthened

Claims (10)

Composition comprising:
(i) cysteine and/or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and alkyl esters of cysteine and salts thereof,
(ii) one or more fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms in a total amount greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
(iii) optionally one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
the pH of said composition ranging from 7.5 to 10. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the total quantity of cysteine and/or of one of its derivatives (i) is less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid triglyceride(s) (ii) is (are) chosen from coconut oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, palm kernel oil, babassu oil, cuphea oil and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms (ii) ranges from 1 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) are chosen from non-thiolic reducing agents and mixtures thereof , preferably from sulphites, sulphite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine and/or one of its derivatives (i) ranges from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which it also comprises one or more additional fatty substances other than triglyceride(s) of fatty acids containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms (ii), preferably chosen from C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) previously described, fluorinated oils, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes, silicones and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, vegetable oils of the triglyceride type different from the triglycerides of fatty acids (ii), amino silicones and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of the additional fatty substance(s), other than the triglyceride(s) of fatty acids containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms (ii), ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which it additionally comprises one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from the following quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof:
- quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (XVII) below:
(XVII)
in which the groups R ₂₈ to R ₃₁ , which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group, at least one of the groups R ₂₈ to R ₃₁ denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline;
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts;
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function;
and more preferably chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride and preferably the total amount of cationic surfactants is from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition. Cosmetic process for combing and/or styling keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying to the said keratinous fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, and after a optional laying, optionally to be removed by rinsing.