WO2011147972A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer, a polyol and a propellant gas based on alkanes - Google Patents

Abstract

A subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium: - one or more vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers, - at least 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of a polyol or of a mixture of polyols with a molecular weight of less than 250 g/mol, and - a propellant gas comprising one or more compounds chosen from optionally halogenated alkanes. This composition can be used in particular for the styling of the hair and makes it possible in particular to retain the shape of a hairstyle in a humid and hot climate.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer, a polyol and a propellant gas based on alkanes

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers, one or more polyo ls and a propellant gas .

Another subject-matter of the present invention is the use o f the said composition in the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibres, such as human keratinous fibres and in particular the hair.

A recurrent problem in the field o f hair cosmetics consists in retaining the shape o f a hairstyle in a humid and hot climate. This is because, on contact with atmospheric moisture, head hairs have a strong tendency to swell and thus appear to have a greater volume overall. The head hairs also have a tendency to curl, which renders the hairstyle even more disorganized and thus less attractive.

This phenomenon is all the more important in the case of curly head hairs, from wavy to tightly curled, which already exhibit a high vo lume in the dry state and which swell and curl all the more so in a humid and/or hot climate.

Thus, this problem is all the greater when it is a matter o f styling and shaping curly hair or "ethnic" hair, that is to say hair of, for example, Brazilian, African or Maghrebin type, which exhibits the distinct feature of being generally dry and curly, and particularly difficult to shape.

There exist styling products which make it possible to limit these phenomena o f gain in vo lume and o f appearance o f curls . They concern, predominantly, fatty creams or foams based on fixing polymers.

However, the application of fatty creams confers a sometimes dirty and greasy appearance on the hair. Furthermore, on using foams based on fixing polymers, the hair is fixed and hardened and thus does not appear very natural. In addition, the use o f these styling products can bring about a rather unnatural and not a very cosmetic feel.

The document FR 2 914 1 83 reveals cosmetic compositions comprising carboxyl anionic surfactants in combination with vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers .

Patent Application FR 2 9 14 1 84 provides cosmetic compositions comprising certain nonionic surfactants in combination with vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers .

Furthermore, International Patent Application WO 2009/079288 describes a styling composition comprising, in the aqueous phase, a vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer and a polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer.

Finally, Patent Application FR 2 926 988 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances, one or more surfactants and one or more vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers.

The Applicant Company has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination, in an aqueous medium, of a vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer with a minimum amount of a polyo l with a mo lecular weight of less than 250 g/mo l and a propellant gas based on alkanes makes it possible to obtain a hair cosmetic composition exhibiting improved properties, in particular in terms o f styling.

In particular, such a composition makes it possible, on the one hand, to obtain styling products providing a very good hold of the hairstyle towards heat and humidity, by control o f the vo lume and o f the curls, and, on the other hand, to provide an improved cosmetic quality, without contributing heaviness or greasiness, the hairs being smooth and so ft up to the tips.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention also exhibits a smooth, creamy and expanded foam texture.

A subj ect-matter of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium: - one or more vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers comprising : from 10 to 95 mo l% o f units of the fo llowing formula A:

and from 5 to 90 mo l% of units o f the fo llowing formula B :

- at least 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of a polyo l or of a mixture of polyo ls with a mo lecular weight of less than 250 g/mo l, and

- a propellant gas comprising one or more compounds chosen from optionally halogenated alkanes .

The compositions according to the invention have proved to be particularly appropriate for the styling of curly hair and in particular "ethnic" hair, for example of Brazilian, African and Maghrebin type, which exhibit the characteristic o f being particularly difficult to shape.

Other subj ect-matters, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and examples which fo llow.

According to the invention, the composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, one or more vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers, one or more polyo ls and a propellant gas comprising one or more alkanes .

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratinous substances and in particular the hair. The term "aqueous medium" is understood to mean that the cosmetically acceptable medium used in the compositions according to the present invention is a medium which comprises water.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% by weight of water, more preferably at least 30% by weight and more preferably still at least 40%) by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable medium can also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, other than the po lyols according to the invention, which can be chosen in particular from lower C2-C4 monoalcoho ls, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butano l or n-butano l, organic solvents which are soluble or dispersible in water, in particular C3-C4 ketones, such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, propylene carbonate or benzyl alcohol, and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, among the preferred solvents other than the po lyo ls o f the invention, o f ethano l.

The vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 60 mo l% of unit o f formula A and more particularly from 20 to 40 mo l% .

The vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers according to the invention preferably comprise from 40 to 90 mo l% o f unit o f formula B and more particularly from 60 to 80 mo l% .

The copolymers according to the invention can be obtained, for example, by partial hydro lysis o f polyvinylformamide. This hydro lysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

The vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers according to the invention can optionally comprise one or more additional monomer units. In this case, the latter preferably represent less than 20 mo l% of the copolymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers according to the invention are composed so lely o f units of formula A and of units o f formula B .

The weight-average mo lecular weight of the copolymer, measured by light scattering, can vary from 10 000 to 30 000 000 g/mo l, preferably from 40 000 to 1 000 000 g/mo l and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mo l.

The cationic charge density o f the vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer can vary from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.

Mention may be made, as example o f vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, inter alia, of the products so ld under the Lupamin name by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9030, Lupamin 9010, Lupamin 5095 and Lupamin 1595.

The vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions preferably ranging from 0. 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10%) by weight and better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The term "po lyo l" is understood to mean in particular, within the meaning of the present invention, a C₂-C _{1 0}, preferably C₂-C₆ , organic compound comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups in its structure.

Preferably, the polyo l is nonpo lymeric.

The polyo ls which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention are in particular glycerol, erythrito l, propylene glyco l, pentylene glyco l, hexylene glyco l, sorbito l and their mixtures.

In a more preferred embo diment, the polyol is chosen from propylene glyco l, glycerol and their mixtures.

Preferably, the po lyo l or polyo ls o f the invention are present in contents ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2. 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 2.2 to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyo l or polyo ls according to the invention are present in contents ranging from 4 to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The po lyo l or polyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in such a way that the ratio by weight of the amount of vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers, on the one hand, to the amount of polyo l, on the other hand, is preferably greater than or equal to 0.05.

In a preferred embodiment, the ratio by weight of the amount of vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer(s), on the one hand, to the amount of polyo l(s), on the other hand, ranges from 0.05 to 30 and more preferably from 0.07 to 5.

The alkane or alkanes used as propellant gas within the meaning of the present invention can be any halogenated or nonhalogenated and volatile alkane normally used in aeroso l devices.

Preferably, they are chosen from nonhalogenated C₃-C₅ alkanes, such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, halogenated and in particular chlorinated and/or fluorinated C₃ -C₅ alkanes, such as 1 , 1 -difluoroethane, and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the said alkane or alkanes are nonhalo genated. More preferably still, the propellant gas is a mixture of propane, n-butane and isobutane.

The propellant gas is present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions preferably ranging from 1 to 95 % by weight, more preferably from 1 .5 to 50% by weight, more preferably still from 2 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more surface-active agents.

The surface-active agent or agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic non-silicone surfactants, silicone surfactants and their mixtures .

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01 % by weight of surfactant(s), with respect to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05 to 20% by weight o f surfactant(s), more preferably from 0. 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably still from 0.5 to 5 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The term "anionic surface-active agent" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups . These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the -C0₂H, -C0₂ , -SO3H, -SO3^", -O SO3H, -OSO3^", -H2PO3 , -HPO3^", -PO3^{2 "}, -H2PO2, =HP0₂, -HPO2^", =P0₂ ^", =POH or =PO groups .

Mention may be made, as examples of anionic surface-active agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, o f alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, cc-o lefinsulphonates, paraffinsulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulpho- succinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyl lactylates, salts o f D-galactosideuronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts o f alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding nonsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts o f C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates .

When the anionic surface-active agent or agents are in the salt form, it (they) can be chosen from salts of alkali metals, such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, salts o f ammonium, salts o f amines and in particular o f amino alcoho ls, or salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium salt.

Mention may in particular be made, as example o f aminoalcoho l salts, of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane salts.

Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

The cationic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention comprise, for example, salts o f optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts and their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, of, for example :

- those corresponding to the following general formula (I) :

in which the radicals Rs to Rn , which can be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical, such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms, such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens . The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from C 1 -C30 alkyl, C 1 -C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C₆)- alkylene, C 1 -C30 alkylamide, (C i 2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C i ₂-C₂₂)alkyl acetate and C 1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl radicals, X^" is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C₆)alkyl sulphates, or alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates .

Preference is given, among quaternary ammonium salts o f formula (I), on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethyl- ammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltri- methylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also, on the other hand, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)- ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl^® 70 by Van Dyk.

- imidazo line quaternary ammonium salts, such as, for example, those of fo llowing formula (II) :

in which Ri ₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives o f tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical, and X^" is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, or alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates . Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture o f alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 2 1 carbon atoms, for example derivatives o f tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl radical and Ri 5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat^® W 75 by Rewo ,

- di- or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula

(III) :

in which Ri ₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R1 7 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a

-(CH₂)3-N ⁺ (Rl 6a)(Rl 7a)(Rl 8a) group, R_{1 6}a, Rl 7a, Rl 8a, Rl 8 , Rl 9, R₂0 and

R₂ i , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X^" is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates . Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P provided by Finetex (Quaternium 89) or Finquat CT provided by Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functional groups, such as those of fo llowing formula (IV) :

in which:

R₂₂ is chosen from C i -C₆ alkyl radicals and C i -C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals,

R₂3 is chosen from: - the

radical,

- saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 -C22 hydrocarbon radicals R27,

- the hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

- the

radical,

- saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C i -C₆ hydrocarbon radicals R29,

- the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28 , which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals,

r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6,

y is an integer having a value from 1 to 10,

x and z, which are identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 10,

X^" is an organic or inorganic and simple or complex anion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 15 , that, when x has a value o f 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that, when z has a value o f 0, then R₂₅ denotes R29.

The R22 alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 1 0. When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon radical, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is an R2 hydrocarbon radical, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28 , which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C n -C_{2 1} hydrocarbon radicals and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C n -C_{2 1} alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, have values of 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, have values of 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, use may be made o f methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester functional group .

The anion X- is more particularly still chloride or methyl sulphate.

Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts o f formula (IV) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from: the

radical,

methyl, ethyl or C 1 4 - C 22 hydrocarbon radicals,

the hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from:

- the

radical,

- the hydrogen atom,

- R₂4 , R26 and R28 , which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C _{1 3}-C _{1 7} hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C _{1 3}-C _{1 7} alkyl and alkenyl radicals .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, o f compounds of formula (IV), such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl- (hydroxyethyl)methylammonium, mo no acyloxyethyldi (hydroxy ethyl) - methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxy- ethyl(hydroxyethyl)dimethylammonium salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulphate), and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, the latter can be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification o f triethano lamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl- diethano lamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification o f their methyl esters . This esterification is fo llowed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart^® by Henkel, Stepanquat^® by Stepan, Noxamium^® by Ceca or Rewoquat^® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco .

The composition according to the invention can, for examp le, comprise a mixture o f quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a predominance by weight of diester salts.

Use may be made, as mixture o f ammonium salts, for example, of the mixture comprising from 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldi(hydroxyethyl)methylammonium methyl sulphate, from 45 to 60% by weight of diacyloxyethyl(hydroxyethyl)methylammonium methyl sulphate and from 15 to 30% by weight of triacyloxyethyl- methylammonium methyl sulphate, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil which is optionally partially hydrogenated.

Use may also be made o f the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester functional group described in Patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80.

The nonionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are compounds well known per se (see in particular in this respect "Handbook of Surfactants" by M .R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 178). They are chosen in particular from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycero lated alcoho ls and fatty alcoho ls, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated cc-dio ls, or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated (C i -C₂o)alkyl- pheno ls, these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for examp le, from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made o f condensates of ethylene oxide and o f propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; po lyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units , polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1 .5 to 4, ethoxylated esters o f fatty acids and of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glyco l, alkylpo lyglyco sides, polyethoxylated vegetable oils, N-(C₆ - C24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives or amine oxides, such as (C 10-C 14 alkyl) amine oxides or N-(C i o-C i 4 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides .

The non-silicone amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agent or agents which can be used in the present invention can in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives comprising at least one anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group . Mention may in particular be made o f (C8-C₂o)alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl) amido(C3-Cs alkyl) betaines or (C8-C20 alkyl) amido(C₆-C8 alkyl) sulphobetaines . Mention may also be made, among the derivatives o f optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines as defined above which can be used, o f the compounds with the fo llowing respective structures (A l ) and (A2) :

R_a-CONHCH₂CH₂-N⁺(R_b)(R_c)(CH₂COO^") (A l ) in which:

R_a represents a C _{1 0}-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R_a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

R_b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and

R_c represents a carboxymethyl group,

and

R_a<-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(B') (A2)

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX^*, B' represents -(CH₂)_Z-Y' , with z = 1 or 2,

X* represents the -CH₂-COOH, -CH₂-COOZ ' , -CH₂CH₂-COOH or -CH₂CH₂-COOZ ' group or a hydrogen atom,

Y* represents -COOH or -COOZ ' or the -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z ' group,

Z ' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine,

R_a' represents a C i o-C₃o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a'-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C _{1 7} alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C _{1 7} group .

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Use is preferably made, among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents, o f (Cs-C₂o alkyl) betaines, such as coco betaines, (Cs-C₂o alkyl) amido(C₃-Cs alkyl) betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures . More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agent or agents are chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine and coco betaine.

Mention may also in particular be made, as surfactants which can be used in the present invention, o f silicone surfactants, described in particular in Patent FR 2 8 1 8 902. The silicone surfactants which can be used in the present invention are those well known to a person skilled in the art. They can be water-soluble, spontaneously water- dispersible or water-insoluble. Preferably, they are water-soluble spontaneously water-dispersible.

The silicone surfactants are, for example, chosen from compounds of following general formulae:

in which formulae :

- Ri , which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 - C30 alkyl group or a phenyl group,

R₂, which are identical or different, represent -C_cH_2c-0-(C₂H₄0)_a-(C3H₆0)_b-R₅ or -C_cH_2c-0-(C₄H₈0)_a-R₅ ,

- R₃ and R₄, which are identical or different, each denote a linear or branched C i -C i ₂ alkyl group and preferably a methyl group, - R₅ , which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, a linear or branched alkoxy group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a linear or branched acyl group comprising from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an -S0₃M group, an -OCOR₆ group, a C i -C₆ amino alkoxy group which is optionally substituted on the amine, a C₂-C₆ aminoacyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine, an -NHCH₂CH₂COOM group, an -N(CH₂CH₂COOM)₂ group, a C i -C i ₂ aminoalkyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine and on the alkyl chain, a C i -C₃ o carboxyacyl group, a phosphono group optionally substituted by one or two substituted C i -C i ₂ aminoalkyl groups, a -CO(CH₂)_dCOOM group, an -OCOCHR₇(CH₂)_dCOOM group, an -NHCO(CH₂)_dOH group or an -NH₃Y group,

- M, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, Na, K, Li, NH₄ or an organic amine,

- R₆ denotes a linear or branched C i -C₃ o alkyl group,

- R₇ denotes a hydrogen atom or an S0₃M group,

- d varies from 1 to 1 0,

- m varies from 0 to 20, - n varies from 0 to 500,

- p varies from 1 to 50,

- q varies from 0 to 20,

- a varies from 0 to 50,

- b varies from 0 to 50,

- a + b is greater than or equal to 1 ,

- c varies from 0 to 4,

- w varies from 1 to 1 00,

- Y represents a monovalent inorganic or organic anion, such as a halide (chloride, bromide), a sulphate or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate) .

Preferably, use is made o f silicone surfactants conforming to the general formula (V) or (VI) as defined above, and more particularly those corresponding to the formula (V) or (VI) in which at least one o f the and preferably all the fo llowing conditions are satisfied:

- c is equal to 2 or 3 ,

- Ri denotes the methyl group,

- P 5 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an acetyl group and preferably a hydrogen atom,

- a varies from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25 ,

- b varies from 0 to 25 , preferably from 10 to 20,

- n varies from 0 to 100,

- p varies from 1 to 20.

The silicone surfactants which are the most particularly preferred are, for example, those sold under the trade names Fluid DC 193 and DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, Silwet® L 77 by OSI and Mazil® 756 by Mazer PPG, and the Lauryl PEG/PPG- 1 8/ 1 8 Methicone (and) Poloxamer 407 (and) Dodecene mixture sold by Dow Corning under the name o f DC 5200.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition o f the invention comprises one or more surface-active agents chosen from amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants as described above and preferably one or more surface-active agents chosen from amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants .

When the composition according to the invention comprises an amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, the foam texture obtained is even more smooth, creamy and expanded.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more zwitterionic surfactants chosen from betaine derivatives, such as (Cs-C₂o)alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines,

(Cs-C₂o alkyl) amido(C₆-C8 alkyl) betaines or (Cs-C₂o alkyl) amido(C₆-C8 alkyl) sulphobetaines, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine.

Mention may be made, as examples, of the products Velvetex

BK 35^® and Dehyton PK 45^®, supplied by Cognis, and the product

Tego Betain F 50, supplied by Evonik.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more fatty substances .

The term "fatty substance" is understood to mean, within the meaning o f the present invention, an organic compound which is inso luble in water at normal temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1 .013 x 10⁵ Pa), that is to say with a so lubility o f less than 4% by weight, preferably of less than 1 % by weight and more preferably still o f less than 0. 1 % by weight. They exhibit, in their structure, at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups . In addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic so lvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol or benzene.

The fatty substances of the invention are not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not comprise a carboxylic acid COOH functional group .

Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcoho ls, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers or their mixtures . They can be liquid or nonliquid, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably exhibit a viscosity o f less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still of less than or equal to 1 Pa. s and even better still o f less than or equal to 0. 1 Pa. s, at a temperature of 25 °C and a shear rate of 1 s^{" 1} .

The term "liquid hydrocarbon" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon composed so lely o f carbon and hydrogen atoms which is liquid at normal temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1 .013 10⁵ Pa) .

More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:

- linear or branched and optionally cyclic lower C₆-C i 6 alkanes . Mention may be made, by way o f example, of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of inorganic, animal or synthetic origin, of more than 1 6 carbons atoms, such as volatile or nonvo latile liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum, liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, or squalane.

In a preferred alternative form, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from vo latile or nonvo latile liquid paraffins and their derivatives and liquid petroleum.

The term "liquid fatty alcohol" is understood to mean a nonglycero lated and nonoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at normal temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg ; i.e . 1 .013 10⁵ Pa) .

Preferably, the liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcoho ls are preferably branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structures, at least one aromatic or nonaromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention are chosen from octyldodecano l, isostearyl alcohol or 2-hexyldecano l.

Octyldodecano l is very particularly preferred.

These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structures, at least one double or triple bond. Preferably, the fatty alcoho ls of the invention have, in their structure, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may or may not be conjugated.

These unsaturated fatty alcoho ls can be linear or branched.

They can optionally comprise, in their structures, at least one aromatic or nonaromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.

More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention are chosen from o leyl alcoho l, lino leyl alcoho l, lino lenyl alcoho l or undecylenyl alcoho l.

Oleyl alcoho l is very particularly preferred.

The term "liquid fatty esters" is understood to mean an ester resulting from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol which is liquid at normal temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg ; i.e . 1 .013 10⁵ Pa) .

The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C i -C₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C i _C₂6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcoho l or of the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.

Mention may be made, among monoesters of monoacids and o f monoalcoho ls, o f ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate. Use may also be made o f esters o f C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C22 alcoho ls and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and o f di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C4-C26 nonsugar alcohols .

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di(n-propyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diiso stearyl adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trio leyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30, preferably C 12-C22, fatty acids. It should be remembered that the term " sugar" is understood to mean oxygen-comprising hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcoho l functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional group, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms . These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .

Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The esters o f sugars and o f fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group consisting o f the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C 12-C22, fatty acids . If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise from one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can, for example, be chosen from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, lino leates, lino lenates, caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular, mixed o leate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate esters .

More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dio leates, -stearates, -behenates, -o leate/palmitates, -lino leates, -lino lenates or -oleate/stearates .

Mention may be made, by way o f example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dio leate.

Finally, use may also be made of natural or synthetic esters o f mono-, di- or triacids with glycero l.

Mention may be made, among these, of vegetable oils.

Mention may be made, as oils o f vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides which can be used in the composition o f the invention as liquid fatty esters, for example, o f:

- triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or also , for example, sunflower, maize, soybean, cucumber, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol^® 8 10 , 8 12 and 8 1 8 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil.

Use will preferably be made, as esters according to the invention, o f liquid fatty esters resulting from monoalcoho ls.

Isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.

The term "liquid silicone" is understood to mean an organopolysiloxane which is liquid at normal temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i. e. 1 .013 x l O⁵ Pa) .

Preferably, the silicone is cho sen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group . These silicones can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined above which comprise, in their structure, one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group .

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work by Walter Noll, " Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" ( 1968), Academic Press. They can be vo latile or nonvo latile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are chosen more particularly from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C and more particularly still from:

cyclic po lydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms . They are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name of Volatile Silicone^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name o f Volatile Silicone^® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, sold under the name o f Silso ft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures.

Mention may also be made o f cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Vo latile^® FZ 3 1 09, sold by Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made o f:

mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derive organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclo tetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythrito l (50/50) and th mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of l,l'-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane,

linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10^"6 m7s at 25°C. They are, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. Silicones coming within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol.91, Jan.76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics". The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445, Appendix C.

Use may also be made of nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes.

These nonvolatile silicones are chosen more particularly from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes possessing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes, without implied limitation, of the following commercial products:

- Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70047 V 500000,

- oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia,

- oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60000 mm²/s,

- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and some oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes possessing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.

The silicones possessing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia,

- oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia, - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning,

- silicones o f the PK series from Bayer, such as the product

PK20,

- some oils o f the SF series from General Electric, such as

SF 1023 , SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organomodified liquid silicones can in particular have polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups . Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-601 7 provided by Shin-Etsu and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether.

The compositions o f the invention can also comprise one or more fatty substances which are nonliquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

The term "nonliquid" is preferably understood to mean a solid compound or a compound exhibiting a viscosity o f greater than 2 Pa. s at a temperature of 25 °C and a shear rate of 1 s^{" 1} .

More particularly, the nonliquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcoho ls, fatty acid and/or fatty alcoho l esters, nonsilicone waxes, silicones or fatty ethers which are nonliquid and preferably so lid.

The nonliquid fatty alcoho ls suitable for the implementation o f the invention are chosen more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms . Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcoho l, stearyl alcoho l and their mixture (cetearyl alcoho l) .

As regards the so lid nonliquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcoho l esters, mention may in particular be made of the so lid esters resulting from linear Cs-C₂6 fatty acids and from C 9-C₂₆ fatty alcoho ls.

Mention may be made, among these esters, of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, or hexyl stearate.

Mention may also be made, among nonliquid fatty esters, o f the esters of linear C8-C26 fatty acids and of C2- C3 polyo ls, such as glyceryl stearate.

Mention may also be made, among nonliquid fatty esters, of the esters of linear C8-C26 fatty acids and of sorbito l, such as sorbitan monopalmitate.

Mention may also be made, among nonliquid fatty esters, of the mono- or polyesters of linear C8-C26 fatty acids and of polyethylene glyco ls, optionally condensed with pentaerythrito l, such as PEG 100 stearate or PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate.

Preference is given, among all the abovementioned additional esters, to the use of myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate or alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate or myristyl myristate.

The (nonsilicone) wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, such as o live tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essential wax so ld by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials which can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as that sold by Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyo lefin waxes in general.

The nonliquid silicones in accordance with the invention can be provided in the form o f waxes, resins or gums .

Preferably, the nonliquid silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from po ly(oxyalkylene) groups, aminated groups and alkoxy groups .

The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes, having high number-average mo lecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a so lvent. This so lvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Products which can more particularly be used in accordance with the invention are mixtures, such as :

the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning,

- the mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and of cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum, corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000 , disso lved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

- the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities and more particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above, having a viscosity o f 20 m²/s, and o f an SF 96 oil, with a viscosity o f 5 x 10^"6 m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15 % of SE 30 gum and 85 % of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems including the units :

R₂Si0₂/2 , Rs SiO i/2 , RSi0₃/₂ and Si0_4/2,

in which R represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 1 6 carbon atoms. Those which are particularly preferred among these products are those in which R denotes the lower C i -C₄ alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593 " or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid S S 4230" and "S S 4267" by General Electric and which are silicones with dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type, so ld in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by Shin-Etsu.

Mention may be made, among additional organomodified silicones, of the po lyorganosiloxanes comprising :

- substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups, such as the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning, under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 by Wacker and under the name DC2-8299 by Dow Corning. The substituted aminated groups are in particular amino(C i - C4 alkyl) groups,

- alkoxylated groups, such as the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 2428 , 2434 and 2440 by Go ldschmidt.

The nonliquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as mixtures .

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance is chosen from vo latile silicones, such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, liquid modified polydimethylsiloxanes, mineral, organic or vegetable oils, alkanes and more particularly C₅ to C _{1 0} alkanes, or liquid fatty esters and more particularly liquid fatty alcoho l benzoates or salicylates.

More preferably still, the liquid fatty substance is chosen from silicones, such as vo latile silicones, mineral oils, vegetable oils, such as o live, castor, rapeseed, coconut, wheat germ, sweet almond, avocado , macadamia, apricot kernel, safflower, candlenut, camelina, tamanu or lemon oil, liquid esters of liquid C 8-C20 fatty acids and o f C i -Cs alcoho ls, such as isopropyl myristate, liquid C 10-C30 fatty alcoho ls, such as o leyl alcoho l; liquid C9-C30 fatty alcoho l esters, such as C 10-C30 fatty alcoho l benzoates, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl malate, tridecyl trimelate and their mixtures, polybutene oil, or liquid esters of po lyo ls, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a silicone or a mixture o f silicones, such as liquid po lydimethylsiloxanes and liquid modified polydimethylsiloxanes, the viscosity o f which, at 25 °C, is between 0. 1 cSt and 1 000 000 cSt and more preferably between 1 cSt and 30 000 cSt.

The fatty substance or substances are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0. 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20%) by weight and better still from 1 to 15 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more thickening agents which can be chosen from polymeric thickeners which are natural or synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic and associative or nonassociative, and nonpo lymeric thickeners, such as, for example, an electrolyte or a sugar.

Mention may be made, as po lymeric thickening agents, for example, of cellulose thickening agents, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulo se and carboxymethyl- cellulo se, guar gum and its derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar, sold by Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105 , gums o f microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic polymeric thickening agents, such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, for example Carbomer, or nonionic, anionic or amphoteric associative po lymers, such as the po lymers so ld under the names Pemulen TR 1 or TR2 by Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by Allied Colloids, Aculyn 22, 28 , 33 , 44 or 46 by Rohm & Haas and Elfacos T210 and T212 by Akzo .

The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more plasticizing agents.

In particular, this or these plasticizing agents can be chosen from the fo llowing compounds :

- ethylene glyco l ethers, such as diethylene glyco l ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glyco l butyl ether, diethylene glyco l hexyl ether, ethylene glyco l ethyl ether, ethylene glyco l butyl ether or ethylene glycol hexyl ether, - propylene glyco l ethers and esters and in particular propylene glyco l phenyl ether, propylene glyco l diacetate, propylene glyco l butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glyco l methyl ether, dipropylene glyco l ethyl ether or tripropylene glyco l methyl ether, - acid esters, in particular carboxylic acid esters, such as citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates,

- their mixtures.

The amount of plasticizing agents can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis o f his general knowledge.

Preferably, this amount varies from 0.01 to 25 % by weight and better still from 0.01 to 15 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The pH o f the compositions according to the invention is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8. It can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application or alternatively using conventional buffer systems .

Mention may be made, among the acidifying agents, by way o f example, of inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orothophosphoric acid, sulphuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.

Mention may be made, among the basifying agents, by way o f example, of aqueous ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethano lamines, and their derivatives, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds with the fo llowing formula:

in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C ₁ -C₄ alkyl radical and R_a, R_b, R_c and R_d, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C₄ alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C₄ hydroxyalkyl radical. Preferably, the pH adjusters can be chosen from alkaline agents, such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethano lamine, triethanolamine, 1 ,3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, or else acidifying agents, such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more adjuvants chosen from fixing polymers other than the vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers according to the invention, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including pantheno l, water-soluble or fat-so luble and silicone or nonsilicone sunscreens, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, conditioning agents, such as, in particular, cationic po lymers, so lubilising agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, penetration agents, fragrances, peptizing agents, amino acids, and preservatives, and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and their amounts so that they do not interfere with the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

In an alternative form of the invention, the compositions of the invention comprise one or more fixing polymers other than the vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers according to the invention.

The term "fixing polymer" is understood to mean, within the meaning o f the invention, any polymer which makes it possible to shape or retain the shape of the hair.

Preferably, these additional fixing polymers are nonionic. More preferably still, these fixing po lymers are copolymers of vinyllactams and in particular of vinylpyrrolidone. Vinylpyrro lidone/vinyl acetate copolymers are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are packaged in an aerosol device. The compositions introduced into the aerosol device are preferably provided in the form of lotions, dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form fo ams to be applied to keratinous substances .

These foams must be sufficiently stable not to rapidly liquefy and must also rapidly disappear, either spontaneously or during the massaging which is used to cause the composition to penetrate into keratinous substances and/or to distribute the composition over keratinous substances and more particularly the hair.

Another subject-matter of the present invention is the use o f the compositions according to the invention for the conditioning, the shaping and/or the fixing of keratinous fibres, such as human keratinous fibres and in particular the hair.

The compositions according to the invention can be applied at ambient temperature or with a contribution of heat, for example using a hairdryer or a smoothing iron.

The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, for example a hair care method, or a method for shaping and/or retaining the shape of the hairstyle, which consists in applying, to the hair, an effective amount of a composition as described above and then carrying out or not carrying out an optional rinsing after an optional leave-in time. Preferably, the compositions o f the invention are leave-in compositions.

The fo llowing examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.

EXAMPLES In the fo llowing examples, all the amounts are shown as percentage by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition. Compositions A to F according to the invention as described in detail in the table below were prepared and packaged in an aeroso l device.

( 1 ) corresponds to the 30% hydro lysed po lyvinylformamide so ld under the name Lupamin 9030 by BASF, which product comprises from 10 to 12% of polymeric active material. Treatment 1

Locks of natural curly chestnut hair weighing 2.7 g were washed and then rinsed. The compositions according to the invention were applied to the wet locks and then the locks were subj ected to blow drying using a hairdryer and a brush. The curly lo cks, after treatment with the styling fo am according to the invention and blow drying, are smoother and the frizziness present before the application is eliminated, even in the presence of high ambient humidity (80% relative humidity).

Treatment 2

Locks o f natural curly chestnut hair weighing 2.7 g were washed and then rinsed. The compositions according to the invention were applied to the wet locks and then the latter are left to dry in the open air.

The curly lo cks, after treatment with the styling fo am according to the invention, are better defined, that is to say that the frizziness present before the application is eliminated and that the curls exhibit a degree of liveliness, even in the presence of high ambient humidity (80% relative humidity) . In addition, the feel has a greater cosmetic quality than with conventional styling products .

It is also possible to dry the hair with a hood dryer or a hairdryer without blow drying.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium:

- one or more vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymers comprising: from 10 to 95 mol% of units of the following formula A:

and from 5 to 90 mol% of units of the following formula B:

- at least 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of a polyol or of a mixture of polyols with a molecular weight of less than 250 g/mol, and

- a propellant gas comprising one or more compounds chosen from optionally halogenated alkanes.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers comprise from 10 to 60 mol% of unit of formula A, preferably from 20 to 40 mol% of unit of formula A.

3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer or copolymers are present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol or polyols are chosen from C₂-C₁₀, preferably C₂-C6, organic compounds which comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups in their structures and are preferably chosen from glycerol, erythrito l, propylene glycol, pentylene glyco l, hexylene glyco l, sorbito l and their mixtures and more preferably from propylene glyco l, glycerol and their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the po lyo l or polyo ls are present in contents ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2. 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2.2 to 8% by weight, and better still from 4 to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio by weight of the amount of vinylformamide/vinylamine copolymer(s), on the one hand, to the amount of polyo l(s), on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 0.05 and preferably ranges from 0.05 to 30 and more preferably from 0.07 to 5.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkane or alkanes present in the propellant gas are chosen from nonhalogenated C₃-C₅ alkanes, halogenated C₃-C₅ alkanes and their mixtures and preferably from nonhalogenated C₃-C₅ alkanes and more particularly from mixtures of propane, n-butane and isobutane.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant gas is present in proportions ranging from 1 to 95 % by weight, preferably from 1 .5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 20%) by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more surface- active agents chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic nonsilicone surfactants, silicone surfactants and their mixtures.

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises one or more surface-active agents chosen from amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants and preferably one or more surface-active agents chosen from amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants, more preferably still one or more surfactants chosen from betaine derivatives, such as (Cs-2o)alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl) amido(C₆-C8 alkyl) betaines or (C8-C20 alkyl) amido(C₆-C₈ alkyl) sulphobetaines, and better still cocamidopropyl betaine and/or coco betaine.

1 1 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more fatty substances.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more fixing polymers, preferably nonionic fixing po lymers, preferably chosen from vinylpyrro lidone/vinyl acetate copolymers .

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in an aeroso l device and dispensed in the foam form.

14. Method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair or for shaping and/or retaining the shape o f the hairstyle, characterized in that it consists in applying, to the hair, an effective amount of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 and in then carrying out or not carrying out an optional rinsing after an optional leave-in time.

15. Use o f a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 for the conditioning, shaping and/or fixing of the hair.