CN116322636A

CN116322636A - Composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: CN116322636A
Application number: CN202080105724.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 胡雅; 陶庆胜
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2020-09-30
Filing date: 2020-09-30
Publication date: 2023-06-23
Also published as: WO2022068473A1; WO2022067650A1; FR3114498B1; FR3114498A1

Abstract

A transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres is provided, comprising: a) A continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil; b) At least one comprises at least two C _6‑22 A surfactant of alkyl chain; and c) a dispersed aqueous phase for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic active ingredient; wherein water and at least one of the water contain at least two C _6‑22 The weight ratio of the surfactant of the alkyl chain is 0.01 to 1.5. Also provided is a cosmetic method for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising applying a transparent composition to the keratin fibers.

Description

Composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres

Background

Hair is often damaged and weakened by external atmospheric factors such as light, weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, and/or straightening.

There are a number of products comprising lipophilic actives that are useful for conditioning and/or coloring hair. For example, there are many hair oil products that contain lipophilic actives.

WO2000074644A1 discloses a composition comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming a bilayer in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant; at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of phospholipids, by weight; at least one suspending agent present in an amount effective to maintain a stable composition; and a lipophilic component.

EP0966955A1 discloses a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials comprising, in an aqueous medium, at least one polyorganosiloxane and an acrylic terpolymer. The terpolymer comprises: (1) Carboxylic acids (a) having alpha, beta-monoethylenically unsaturated degree (20 to 70, preferably 25 to 55,% by weight); (2) Monomers (B) other than (A) having a non-surfactant monoethylenically unsaturated degree (20 to 80, preferably 30 to 65,% by weight); and (3) a nonionic urethane monomer (C) (0.5 to 60, preferably 10 to 50, wt%) prepared by reacting: monohydric alcohol nonionic surfactants with monoisocyanates, which have monoethylenically unsaturated degrees.

To meet the needs of various consumers, cosmetic companies are eager to diversify the product types of hair oil products.

In the development of hair oil products, there are challenges to including hydrophilic actives for conditioning and/or coloring hair.

Furthermore, it is highly desirable to use products having a pleasant appearance, such as products having a transparent appearance, to provide hair conditioning and/or coloring benefits.

It is also desirable that the products used to condition and/or dye hair be stable over time.

Thus, there remains a need to develop a composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as the hair, which comprises a hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair, and which has a transparent appearance and is stable over time.

Disclosure of Invention

It is therefore an object of the present invention to develop a composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises a hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing the hair, and which has a transparent appearance and is stable over time.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, comprising:

a) A continuous oil phase comprising at least one oil;

b) At least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 An alkyl chain; and

c) A dispersed aqueous phase comprising water and at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres;

wherein water and at least one of the water contain at least two C _6-22 The weight ratio of the surfactant of the alkyl chain is 0.01 to 1.5.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, comprising the application to keratin fibres of a composition as described above.

The inventors have found that reverse micelles are formed in the composition according to the invention, such that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time, and that the composition is effective in conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description and examples.

Detailed description of the invention

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the numerical ranges are included in the ranges, particularly in the expressions "… to …" ("betwen … and …") and "… to …" ("from … to …").

As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be construed to include all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no feature other than the specifically mentioned feature is present (i.e., "consisting of …").

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. To the extent that the definitions of terms in this specification conflict with the meanings commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains, the definitions set forth herein should apply.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters set forth herein are approximations that can vary depending upon the desired properties to be obtained as desired.

As used herein, the term "keratin fibers" includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as hair.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to a first aspect of the present invention, a transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres comprises:

a) A continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil;

b) At least one comprises at least two C _6-22 A surfactant of alkyl chain; and

Oil phase

According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises a continuous oil phase comprising at least one oil.

Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or pasty (non-solid) form at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

As one or more oils, oils commonly used in cosmetic products may be used alone or in combination. These one or more oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, and the like; polar oils such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.

The oil may be of vegetable or animal origin and synthetic oil.

As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made, for example, of linseed oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

As examples of synthetic oils, alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides may be mentioned.

The ester oil is preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ Aliphatic mono-or polyacids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ Liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl pivalate and isostearyl pivalate.

C can also be used ₄ -C ₂₂ Dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acidsCarboxylic acid and C ₁ -C ₂₂ Esters of alcohols and mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ Esters of dihydric, trihydric, tetrahydroxy or penta-hydroxy alcohols.

Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropanol citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glycerol trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; tri (octyldodecanol) citrate; triol citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As the ester oil, C can be used ₆ -C ₃₀ Fatty acids and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids. Recall that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygenated hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be mono-, oligo-or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, trehalose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group consisting of the sugars previously described with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ Fatty acids and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Esters or ester mixtures of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates or mixtures thereof, in particular, mixed esters such as oil palmitates, oil stearates and palm stearates, and pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate (pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate).

More particularly mono-and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose mono-or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oil palmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oil stearates.

Examples which may be mentioned are the companies Amerchol under the name

DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

As examples of preferred ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl caproate, ethyl laurate, cetyl caprylate, octyldodecyl caprylate, isodecyl pivalate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, tris (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetrakis (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, caprylic/capric triglyceride, trimyristate glyceride, tripalmitin, trilinein glyceride, trilaurin glyceride, tricapran glyceride, tricaprylin glyceride, and tris (capric/caprylic/linolenic) glyceride.

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked via hydrocarbon-based groups.

Organopolysiloxane is defined in more detail in the Academic Press, chemistry and Technology ofSilicones by Walter Noll (1968). They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of 60 ℃ to 260 ℃, and even more particularly selected from:

(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are for example given the name Volatile by Union Carbide

7207 or by Rhodia under the name +.>

70045V2 octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile->

7158. Under the name Rhodia

70045V5, and dodecamethyl cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers (of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane), such as the Silics sold by the company Union Carbideone/>

FZ 3109 has the formula:

mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as mixtures of octamethyltetrasiloxane and tetra (trimethylsilyl) pentaerythritol (50/50), and mixtures of octamethyltetrasiloxane and oxo-1, 1' -bis (2, 2', 3' -hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane;

(ii) Containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a silicon atom number of less than or equal to 5X 10 at 25 DEG C ^-6 m ² Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane of viscosity/s. One example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200, particularly by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in Cosmetics and Toiletries, volume 91, month 1 of 76, pages 27-32, todd&In articles published in Byers, volatile Silicone Fluidsfor Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone was measured at 25 ℃ according to ASTM standard 445 appendix C.

Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of non-limiting example, of the following commercial products:

-series 47 and 70 047 sold by Rhodia

Oil or->

Oils, such as oil 70 047V 500 000;

sold by the company Rhodia

A series of oils;

200 series of oils from Dow Corning, inc., such as having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² DC200 of/s;

-from General Electric

Oils and certain oils from the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series of oils from Rhodia.

Among the aryl-containing silicones are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

70641 series from Rhodia

An oil;

-from Rhodia

70633 and 763 series of oils;

oil from Dow Corning 556Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

silicones from the Bayer PK series, such as product PK20;

certain oils from the SF series of General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, in particular, polyoxyethylene groups and/or polyoxypropylene groups. From this, mention may be made of silicone KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu and oils from the company Union Carbide

L722 and L77.

The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:

-linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₆ -C ₁₆ Lower alkanes. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum (petrolatum), polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as

And squalane.

As preferable examples of the hydrocarbon oil, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum (petrolatum), naphthalene, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethiconol end groups, such as polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone), dimethiconol, and mixtures thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 80% to 98.5% by weight, preferably from 85% to 97.5% by weight, more preferably from 88% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Comprising at least two C _6-22 Alkyl chain surfactants

According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises at least one surfactant comprising at least two C _6-22 Alkyl chains.

Comprising at least two C _6-22 The surfactant of the alkyl chain may be selected from surfactants comprising at least two C _6-22 Alkyl groupAnionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants of the chain.

As a composition comprising at least two C _6-22 Mention may be made of anionic surfactants of the alkyl chain, dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which each alkyl group contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms (for example, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, 1, 3-dioctyl glyceryl ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, 1, 3-didecyl glyceryl ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, 1, 3-didodecyl) glyceryl ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, sodium distearyl phosphate, sodium dioleyl phosphate, sodium di (trans 9-octadecenyl) phosphate, sodium 1, 2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphate (sodium salt), sodium di (lauroyl glutamine) lysine, sodium ethylenebis (N-lauroyl-aspartate, and the like).

As a composition comprising at least two C _6-22 Mention may be made of cationic surfactants of the alkyl chain, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium halides in which each alkyl group contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms (for example, dimethyl didodecyl ammonium bromide, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dioleyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride), 1, 2-dioleoyl-3-trimethyl ammonium-propane (chloride salt), trialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides in which each alkyl group contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms (for example, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, tristearyl methyl ammonium chloride), and mixtures thereof.

As a composition comprising at least two C _6-22 Mention may be made of anionic surfactants of the alkyl chain, esters of polyols with fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 6-22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as one or more C' s ₆ -C ₂₂ Preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ The glycerides of fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives preferably have an alkylene oxide number of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ Preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferablyHaving an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ Preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof preferably have an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ Preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ Sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkyl sugar) esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 ethylene oxide groups, such as ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-12 distearate, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, ethylene glycol dioleate, PEG-3 dioleate, PEG-4 dioleate and the like.

As glycerides of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glycerol stearates (di-and/or tristearates) such as 1, 3-glycerol distearate, glycerol dioleate, glycerol dilaurate, glycerol 1, 3-dipalmitate and mixtures thereof.

As optionally alkoxylated glycerides of C6-C22 fatty acids, there may be mentioned, for example, polyglycerol stearates (di-and/or tristearates) such as polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 dihydroxystearate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate.

C ₆ -C ₂₂ Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids such as span 65, span 85 with alkoxylated sorbitol anhydrides containing for example 20 to 100 EO, such as for example polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Croda.

As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, mention may be made in particular of glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, such as methyl glucose or ethyl glucose palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty esters, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (methyl glucose dioleate), mixed esters of methyl glucoside and the mixture oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucose isostearate), esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (methyl glucose laurate), mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucose sesquistearate), mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the products sold under the name Glucate SS by Lubrizol, and mixtures thereof.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, there may be mentioned, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of methyl glucose with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) of diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, such as the product sold under the name glucoamate E-20DISTEARATE by Lubrizol, polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold under the name glucoamate SSE-20 by Lubrizol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose trioleate and sucrose tristearate.

Preferably, comprises at least two C _6-22 The surfactant of the alkyl chain is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, trialkyl methyl ammonium chloride, fatty acids and esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, mixtures thereof, wherein each alkyl group contains 6-22 carbon atoms.

More preferably, at least two C _6-22 The alkyl chain surfactant is selected from sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, methyl glucose dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, at least two C's are included _6-22 The surfactant of the alkyl chain is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosurfactant

In some embodiments, the composition according to the invention further comprises a cosurfactant selected from fatty alcohols, fatty amines, fatty amides, fatty ethers and fatty esters containing one alkyl chain to improve the swelling capacity of the reverse micelles.

Fatty alcohols useful in the compositions of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain, and have from 6 to 60 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohols of the present disclosure are selected from solid and liquid fatty alcohols.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohol may be branched. They may optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring in their structure. They may be acyclic.

Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds, in their structure. When several double bonds are present, preferably 2 or 3 double bonds are present, and they may be conjugated or non-conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring in their structure. They may be acyclic. Among the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenol may be mentioned.

The liquid fatty alcohol may be selected from, for example, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl or linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono) alcohols, comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohol preferably has the formula: R-OH, wherein R particularly denotes C ₆ -C ₆₀ For example C ₈ -C ₆₀ Preferably C ₁₀ -C ₅₀ Or even C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ Alkyl, R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, and R may be branched. The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention may be non-oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerinated. These fatty alcohols may be components of animal or vegetable waxes.

The solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several fatty alcohols may coexist in the commercial product in the form of a mixture. One example of such a commercial product is cetostearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetostearyl alcohols, available from BASF under the trade name LANETTE-O. Cetyl alcohol is also commercially available from BASF under the trade name LANETTE 16.

In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty alcohol selected from butanol, pentanol, hexanol, octanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises cetostearyl alcohol.

As a commercial product of cetostearyl alcohol, there may be mentioned the one sold under the trade name LANETTE O OR by BASF.

As examples of suitable fatty amines, mention may be made of oleylamine, stearylamine, lauryldimethylamine oxide.

As examples of suitable fatty amides, mention may be made of oleamide, cocofatty acid monoethanolamide, cocofatty acid diethanolamide, cocofatty acid monoisopropanolamide.

As examples of suitable fatty ethers, mention may be made of lauryl ether, stearyl ether, ethoxylated stearyl ether.

If present, the cosurfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 wt.% to 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 wt.% to 1.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

According to a first aspect of the invention, the invention comprises a dispersed aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more compounds miscible or at least partially miscible with water, for example C ₂ -C ₈ Lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols such as butanediol, propanediol and isopentyl glycol, octanediol, glycerol (i.e. glycerol) and polyethylene glycol.

The aqueous phase also comprises at least one hydrophilic active ingredient as described below.

The aqueous phase may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic active ingredient

According to a first aspect of the invention, the dispersed aqueous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

As hydrophilic active ingredients, mention may be made of water-soluble dyes and other hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" refers to any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvent and which is capable of imparting color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water to a concentration at least equal to 0.1g/l, measured at 25 ℃ (preparation of macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solutions). The solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1g/l.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as FD & C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC yellow 8 (CI: 45350Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC blue 1 (CI: 42090), basic orange 31, basic Red 51, basic yellow 87, basic Red 76 and combinations thereof.

As non-limiting examples of sources of one or more water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as cochineal extract, beet root extract, grape extract, carrot extract, tomato extract, carmine extract, red pepper extract, henna extract, caramel extract and curcumin extract.

Thus, suitable water-soluble colorants for use in the present invention are, inter alia, carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins (enocyanins), lycopene, beta-carotene, annatto, norrosein, capsanthin, buttercup, lutein, cryptoxanthin, jaundice, violaxanthin, riboflavin, taxifolin, canthaxanthin, and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine and disodium salt of fuchsin.

As other hydrophilic active ingredients, mention may be made of adipic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, nicotinamide, histidine, tyrosine, lysine, arginine, creatine, taurine, carnitine, permeate such as trimethylamine n-oxide, betaine, sucrose, hydrolyzed protein, hyaluronic acid.

Advantageously, the hydrophilic active ingredient is present in an amount of from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients previously known elsewhere in compositions for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, such as perfumes, preservatives; etc.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a copolymer comprising silicone resin segments and fluid silicone segments, also referred to herein as "silicone copolymer", to improve manageability (in alignment), curl retention and manageability of hair.

The silicone copolymer is derived from the reaction between a silicone resin and a fluid siloxane. These copolymers are described in patent applications WO 03/026596, WO 2004/073626, WO 2007/051505 and WO 2007/051506 for various cosmetic applications on hair and nails and for pharmaceutical applications on skin.

The silicone resin segment of the copolymer is an MQ silicone resin. Examples of such MQ-type silicone resins include, but are not limited to: (i) [ (R1) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y An alkylsiloxy silicate of (MQ unit), wherein x and y are integers from 50 to 80 and the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, phenyl, phenylalkyl or hydroxy, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and (ii) a phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resin, the alkyl groups of the phenylalkyl groups being as defined above, such as phenylpropyl dimethylsiloxy silicate.

Examples of such MQ-type silicone resins also include, but are not limited to, trimethylsiloxysilicate types such as those sold under the names DC 749 or DC 593 by company General Electric under the designation SR1000, company Wacker under the designation TMS 803, or company Shin-Etsu under the designation KF-7312J, or company Dow Corning.

Examples of such MQ-type silicone resins further include, but are not limited to, MQ siloxysilicate units, such as phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyl dimethylsiloxy silicate (SilShine 151, sold by the company General Electric).

The fluid silicone segment of the copolymer bears OH end functional groups. Preferably, the fluid silicone segment is a diorganopolysiloxane having OH end functional groups and having a viscosity at 25℃of 100 to 100,000cSt (measured using a Brookfield viscometer using the ASTMD-445 method), wherein one or more substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl groups. The diorganopolysiloxane is preferably a linear polymer. Examples of diorganopolysiloxanes can be, without limitation, polydimethylsiloxanes, ethylmethylpolysiloxanes, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and methylvinylsiloxanes, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers containing OH end groups. The preferred diorganopolysiloxane is polydimethylsiloxane.

For example, the copolymer may be prepared by heating a mixture of:

45 to 75% by mass of a silicone resin which is SiO ₂ And R is ₃ (SiO) _1/2 Condensation products of units, wherein each group R is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl, and wherein SiO of the silicone resin ₂ Functional group and R ₃ (SiO) _1/2 The ratio between the functional groups is 0.6 to 0.9;

-25 to 55 mass% of a fluid diorganopolysiloxane containing OH end functional groups having a viscosity of 100 to 100,000cst at 25 ℃ (measured with a Brookfield viscometer using astm d-445 method), wherein the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl; and

from 0.001% to 5% of a suitable catalyst, preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound, preferably selected from primary, secondary, tertiary amines, carboxylates and quaternary ammonium salts of the aforementioned amines.

The mixture is heated to a temperature of 80 ℃ to 160 ℃ until the adhesive properties of the resulting silicone copolymer are obtained.

In the copolymer, the silicone resin is present in a content of 45% to 75% (relative to the total mass of silicone), and the fluid silicone is present in a content of 25% to 55%, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and fluid silicone being equal to 100. Preferably, the silicone resin is present in a content of 55% to 65% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present in a content of 35% to 45%, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and fluid silicone being equal to 100.

Preferred copolymers are labeled by Dow Corning

And DOWSIL ^TM And (5) selling. Mention may be made in particular of

Grades 7-4400, 7-4405, 7-4500 and 7-4600, and DOWSIL ^TM FC-5001CM Resin Gum, FC-5002IDD Resin Gum and FC-5004DM Resin Gum.

Advantageously, the copolymer containing silicone resin segments and fluid silicone segments, if present, is present in an amount of from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, comprising, with respect to the total weight of the composition:

a) 88 to 95 weight percent of at least one oil selected from isododecane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, and mixtures thereof;

b) 0.5 to 7 wt% of at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of dialkyl sulfosuccinates, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, trialkyl methyl ammonium chloride, fatty acid esters and glucose or alkyl glucose, mixtures thereof, wherein each alkyl group contains 1 to 20 carbon atoms; and

c) 0.003 to 3% by weight of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres;

wherein water and at least one of the water contain at least two C _6-22 Surface Activity of alkyl chainsThe weight ratio of the agent is 0.1 to 1.5.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing the components a) to c) as base components, together with one or more additional components as described above.

There is no limitation on the method and means of mixing the above basic and optional ingredients. Any conventional methods and means may be used to mix the above basic and optional ingredients to prepare the compositions according to the present invention.

The term "clear" is used interchangeably with the term "transparent" for purposes of this disclosure.

Reverse micelles are formed in the composition according to the invention.

The presence of reverse micelles can be confirmed by solubilization of the water-soluble dye.

The composition according to the invention may be a conditioner, a leave-on product, such as a leave-on oil.

The use of the composition may be accomplished on wet or dry hair.

According to a second aspect of the invention, a cosmetic method for conditioning keratin fibres comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition as described above.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.

Examples

The main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in table 1.

TABLE 1

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Inventive examples 1-3 and comparative example 1

Leave-on oils according to the formulations (IE.) 1-3 and comparative formulation (ce.) 1 of the present invention were prepared using the ingredients listed in table 2, (the contents being expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE 2

The weight ratio of water to di-cetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride of the leave-on oil according to comparative formulation (ce.) 1 was 2, which was outside 0.01 to 1.5.

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

1) Mixing polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, triglyceride (if present) and isododecane to obtain a hair base;

2) Adding dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride to the oil phase, if present;

3) Dissolving arginine in water to obtain a solution, and then mixing the solution with an oil phase or directly adding the dye to the oil phase.

Evaluation:

the stability of the obtained leave-on oil was evaluated by holding the leave-on oil at 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) or 45 ℃ for 2 months and visually checking whether the leave-on oil is transparent. The wash-free oil tested was rated stable if it was transparent for 2 months at 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) and 45 ℃, otherwise it was rated unstable.

The appearance of the resulting leave-on oil was visually observed.

The transmittance was measured with a Thermo Scientific Evolution 220 UV-visible spectrophotometer.

The presence of reverse micelles was confirmed by solubilization of the water-soluble dye.

The results are summarized in table 3.

TABLE 3 Table 3

Properties of (C)	IE.1	IE.2	IE.3	CE.1
					Stability of	Stabilization	Stabilization	Stabilization	Unstable state
Appearance of	Uniform and transparent	Uniform and transparent	Uniform and transparent	Non-uniform sedimentation
					Transmittance of light	90-100	90-100	90～100	NA
Reverse micelle	Has the following components	Has the following components	Has the following components	Without any means for

Inventive examples 4 to 5

The ingredients listed in table 4 were used to prepare leave-on oils according to the formulations (IE.) 4-5 of the present invention (the content being expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE 4 Table 4

Component (A)	IE.4	IE.5
			Polydimethylsiloxane 1	13.33	13.33
Polydimethylsiloxane 2	4	4
			Polydimethylsiloxane alcohols	40	40
Caprylic/capric triglyceride	20	20
			Isodecyl (Isodecyl)	QS100	QS100
Dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride	2.1	0.7
			Cetostearyl alcohol	1	0.5
Deionized water	0.9	0.4
			Arginine (Arg)	0.1	0.1

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

1) Mixing polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, triglyceride and isododecane to obtain hair base stock;

2) Adding dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and cetostearyl alcohol, if present, to the oil phase;

3) Dissolving arginine in water to obtain a solution, and then mixing the solution with an oil phase.

Evaluation:

the stability and appearance of the obtained leave-on oil were evaluated as described above, and the presence of reverse micelles. The transmittance was measured with a Thermo Scientific Evolution, 220, UV-visible spectrophotometer.

The results are summarized in table 5.

TABLE 5

Properties of (C)	IE.4	IE.5
			Stability of	Stabilization	Stabilization
Appearance of	Uniform and transparent	Uniform and transparent
			Transmittance of light	90-100	90-100
Reverse micelle	Has the following components	Has the following components

Inventive examples 6-8 and comparative examples 2-4

Leave-on oils according to the formulations (IE.) 6-8 and comparative formulations (ce.) 2-4 of the invention (the contents are expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated) were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 6:

TABLE 6

The leave-on oils according to comparative formulation (ce.) 2-4 do not contain any oil containing at least two C' s _6-22 Surfactants of alkyl chains and water.

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

2) Adding dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride to the oil phase, if present;

3) Dissolving the dye in water to obtain a solution, and then mixing the solution with the oil phase or directly adding the dye to the oil phase.

Evaluation:

the stability and appearance of the obtained leave-on oil were evaluated as described above, and the presence of reverse micelles.

The results are summarized in table 7.

TABLE 7

Inventive examples 9-11 and comparative examples 5-7

Leave-on oils according to the formulations (IE.) 9-11 and comparative examples (ce.) 5-7 of the present invention (the contents are expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated) were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 8:

TABLE 8

The leave-on oils according to comparative formulation (ce.) 5-7 do not contain any oil containing at least two C' s _6-22 Surfactants of alkyl chains and water.

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

2) Adding dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride to the oil phase, if present;

Evaluation:

The results are summarized in table 9.

TABLE 9

Inventive examples 12-14 and comparative examples 8-10

Leave-on oils according to the formulations (IE.) 12-14 and comparative formulations (ce.) 8-10 of the invention (the contents are expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated) were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 10:

table 10

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The leave-on oils according to the comparative formulation (ce.) 8-10 do not contain any oil containing at least two C' s _6-22 Surfactants of alkyl chains and water.

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

2) Adding dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride to the oil phase, if present;

Evaluation:

The results are summarized in table 11.

TABLE 11

* NA: no testing was performed.

Inventive examples 15 to 16

Leave-on oils according to the formulations (IE.) 15-16 of the present invention (content expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated) were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 12:

Table 12

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

2) Adding methyl glucose dioleate and sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, if present, to the oil phase;

Evaluation:

the stability and appearance of the obtained leave-on oil were evaluated as described above, and the presence of reverse micelles. The transmittance was measured with a Thermo Scientific Evolution 220 UV-visible spectrophotometer.

The results are summarized in table 13.

TABLE 13

Inventive example 17

Leave-on oils according to the formulation (IE.) 17 of the present invention (content expressed as weight percent of active substance relative to the total weight of the leave-on oil unless otherwise indicated) were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 14:

TABLE 14

The preparation procedure is as follows:

the composition was prepared as follows:

1) Using isododecane as a hair base;

2) Incorporating a silicone copolymer into a hair base to obtain an oil phase;

3) Adding dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride to the oil phase;

4) Dissolving the dye in water to obtain a solution, and then mixing the solution with the oil phase.

Evaluation:

The leave-on oil prepared in example 17 was applied to one hair curling sample from the same batch and hair samples were observed immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24 h).

The treated hair samples were scored for manageability (in terms of alignment, curl retention, and regularity) immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24 h).

The manageability was scored and averaged by 6 consumers based on the following criteria:

5: very good;

4: is basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly worse and unacceptable;

1: poor, unacceptable.

The results are summarized in table 15.

TABLE 15

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Claims

1. A transparent composition for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, comprising:

a) A continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil;

b) At least one comprises at least two C _6-22 A surfactant of alkyl chain; and

c) A dispersed aqueous phase for conditioning and/or dyeing keratin fibres, comprising water and at least one hydrophilic active ingredient;

Wherein water and the at least one comprises at least two C _6-22 The weight ratio of the surfactant of the alkyl chain is 0.01 to 1.5.

2. The composition of claim 1 wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of branched paraffinic oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, triglycerides, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is present in an amount of 80 to 98.5 wt%, preferably 85 to 97.5 wt%, more preferably 88 to 95 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising at least two C _6-22 The surfactant of the alkyl chain is selected from the group consisting of dialkyl sulfosuccinates, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides, trialkyl methyl ammonium chlorides, fatty acids and esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, mixtures thereof, wherein each alkyl group contains 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

5. The composition of claim 4, comprising at least two C' s _6-22 The alkyl chain surfactant is selected from sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, methyl glucose dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of any one of claims 1-5, wherein the composition comprises at least two C _6-22 The surfactant of the alkyl chain is present in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.3 to 8 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 7 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition of any of claims 1-6, further comprising at least one co-surfactant selected from butanol, pentanol, hexanol, octanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the co-surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.2 wt% to 3 wt%, more preferably 0.3 wt% to 1.5 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition.

9. The composition of any of claims 1-8, further comprising a copolymer comprising a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the silicone resin is present in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt%, preferably 1 to 8 wt%, and more preferably 2 to 6 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition.

11. The composition of any one of claims 1-10, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient comprises a hydrophilic dye.

12. The composition of claim 11, wherein the hydrophilic dye is selected from the group consisting of basic orange 31, basic red 51, basic yellow 87, basic red 76, and combinations thereof.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1-9, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient is present in an amount of 0.001 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.002 to 4 wt%, and more preferably 0.003 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition of any one of claims 1-13, which is a leave-on product.

15. A cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.