CN109152725A - For handling the composition of keratin fiber - Google Patents
For handling the composition of keratin fiber Download PDFInfo
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- CN109152725A CN109152725A CN201680085014.5A CN201680085014A CN109152725A CN 109152725 A CN109152725 A CN 109152725A CN 201680085014 A CN201680085014 A CN 201680085014A CN 109152725 A CN109152725 A CN 109152725A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
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Abstract
It is a kind of for handling the composition of keratin fiber comprising at least one cationic surfactant;The nonionic surfactant of or mixtures thereof aliphatic ester of at least one selected from alkyl (more) glycosides, glycerol and polyglycereol;The protein extract of at least one Moringa vegetable seeds;With at least one kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclic polymer;With at least one oil selected from or mixtures thereof hydrocarbon ils, vegetable oil.
Description
Invention field
The present invention relates to hair care cosmetics fields, more specifically, it is related to for keratin fiber with desired
The new compositions of particle-resistant deposition and good conditioning effect.
Background of invention
Air pollution (such as airborne grit) becomes serious public worry, threatens to the health of people and by consumer
Attention be attracted to the influence for keratin fiber (especially hair).
The hair of people is damaged by the chemical action of environmental factor and/or hair treatment (such as permanent wave, dyeing or bleaching)
Evil or reduction.Particularly, because being exposed to air, hair is by damage by air pollution and reduction.
It is being present among the different types of pollutant in air, dust or subparticle such as PM 2.5, PM 10, carbon
Powder, gas such as CO, SO2、NOxThe concern of consumer is caused, especially in recent years.
As used herein term " PM 2.5 (or PM 10) " is also referred to as particulate matter or subparticle, such as ISO
7708:1995, defined in 7.1, referring to has across to 2.5 μm of (or being 10 μm for PM 10) gas-kinetic diameters
The particle of the size selectivity entrance of 50% efficiency cut-off.The particulate matter be interpreted as comprising float aerial little particle and
The complex mixture of drop.Subparticle present in air tends to adhere on hair.They will be deposited simultaneously on hair
And even still retain after wash.This deposition is so that hair is dirty, straight sparse and greasy.
It is known in the art to reduce pollutant using activating agent and deposited on hair, and thus reduce what consumer was faced
Hair is dirty, greasy and straight sparse problem.
Use of the known oil Drumstick Tree powder seed extract in hair care cosmetics composition.Particularly, it is used to resist
It pollutes in hair care product.For example, as it is known that containing surfactant, oil Drumstick Tree powder seed extract and various types of conditionings
The shampoo of agent.
But composition as described above is still unsatisfactory, especially conditioning hair and particle-resistant deposition effect it
Between balance in terms of.That is, it is difficult to prepare with improved particle-resistant deposition effect and be provided simultaneously to hair good
The composition of conditioning effect.
In addition, although existing has for wash with conditioning hair of aesthetic appearance (such as transparent or semitransparent appearance)
Product, these products do not provide particle-resistant deposition to hair.
Therefore, exist to the new product for the balance for showing improved above-mentioned property and need.
Particularly, exist to compositions formulated and need, the composition provides improvement to keratin fiber (especially hair)
Conditioning effect and particle-resistant deposition effect between balance.
The balance improved as described herein refers to improved particle-resistant deposition effect, improves without influencing on the contrary
Effect.
Advantageously, exist to the new product of the transparent or semitransparent appearance with pleasant and need.The present invention is directed to full
These needs of foot.
Invention summary
It is achieved the object of the present invention by the composition for handling keratin fiber, the composition includes at least one
Plant the egg of cationic surfactant, at least one specific nonionic surfactant, at least one Moringa vegetable seeds
White extract, at least one kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium and at least one specific oil.
Preferably, composition of the invention is transparent or translucent.
Term " transparent or translucent " is understood to mean that composition, and with 400NTU is less than, (turbidimetry is turbid at 25 DEG C
Spend unit) and there is the turbidity for being less than 250NTU preferably at 25 DEG C, the turbidity uses the 2100N nephelometer machine from HACH
Device (Turidimeter machine) measurement, wherein the sample cell for turbidity test is by the quartz marked as Cat.2084900
Glass is made.
Preferably, composition of the invention is no silicone.
As used herein term " silicone " is understood to mean that comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably comprises Si-O base
Any compound of group.
As used herein term " no silicone " indicates that composition of the invention is free of silicone, or relative to total combination
Object includes silicone with the amount for being not more than 1 weight % silicone.Preferably, the composition can relative to the total weight of the composition
Contain the silicone for being no more than 0.5 weight %, more preferably no more than 0.2 weight %.
It is highly preferred that composition of the invention is free of silicone.
Preferably, composition of the invention is leave (leave-on) Wo 2008069000.
Preferably, " keratin fiber " according to the present invention is hair.
As used herein term " particle-resistant deposition " refers to that the particle reduced on keratin fiber, particularly hair is heavy
Product.
Another aspect of the present invention is the method for conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair comprising will be of the invention
Composition the step of being applied to the fiber.
Another aspect of the invention is the use that above-mentioned composition of the invention is used for conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair
On the way.
One aspect of the present invention is that composition as defined above reduces the subparticle for including in keratin in air
The purposes of deposition on fiber, particularly hair.
In the description, term " at least " or " at least one (kind) " are equal to " one (kind) or more (kind) ".
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be described below in reading and more clearly show after embodiment.
Detailed description of the invention
Cationic surfactant
Composition of the invention includes at least one cationic surfactant.The cationic surfactant is selected from formula
(I) compound,
Wherein,
R1To R4It may be the same or different, represent the aliphatic group or aromatics comprising 1 to 30 carbon atom of linear chain or branched chain
Group, such as aryl or alkylaryl, and group R1To R4At least one of include 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
It is highly preferred that group R1To R4At least one of include 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
Aliphatic group may include hetero atom, especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogen.
Aliphatic group is for example selected from C1-C30Alkyl, C1-C30Alkenyl, C1-C30Alkoxy, polyoxygenated (C2-C6) alkene, C1-C30
Alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamidoalkyl (C2-C6) alkyl, (C12-C22) alkyl acetates, C1-C30Hydroxy alkyl.
X-It is the anionic counter-ion selected from halide ion.
Preferably, X-It is chloride ion.
Among the quaternary ammonium salt of formula (I), quaternary alkylammonium halides such as tetra-alkyl ammonium chloride preferred first, such as tetra-alkyl-phosphonium halide
Ammonium or alkylpolyoxyethylene, such as dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, wherein alkyl contains about
12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially halide, Ru the mountain is based on trimethylammonium chloride, VARISOFT TA100, cetyl
Trimethyl ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium chloride, ethoxy oleyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, alternatively, and palmityl
Aminocarbonyl propyl trimethyl-ammonium halide, such as chloride or bisisostearamidopropyldimonium (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride.
It can be mentioned that product (INCI: cetyl front three for example sold by Cognis with title Dehyquart A OR
Ammonium chloride), sold by Chimex company with title Chimexane CL product (INCI: ethoxy oleyl dimethyl
Ammonium chloride), by Rhodia company with titleProduct (the INCI: Shan Yu base trimethyl ammonia chlorides of 2232EF sale
Or mixtures thereof ammonium),.
More particularly, a kind of embodiment according to the present invention, the cationic surfactant is relative to the composition
Total weight within the scope of 0.01 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % amount exist.
Nonionic surfactant
According to the present invention, the composition includes at least one second surface activity different from first surface activating agent
Agent, or mixtures thereof aliphatic ester selected from alkyl (more) glycosides, glycerol and polyglycereol nonionic surfactant.Preferably,
According to an embodiment, the composition includes the fatty acid ester nonionic surface of alkyl (more) glycosides and glycerol and polyglycereol
The mixture of activating agent is as second surface activating agent.
I) alkyl (more) glycosides nonionic surfactant
Term " alkyl (more) glycosides " indicates alkyl polyglycoside or alkyl list glycosides, in the present patent application also referred to as alkylglycoside,
One or more oxyalkylene groups (preferred C can be used in it2-C4Oxyalkylene group) carry out alkoxylate.
Alkyl (more) the glycosides nonionic surfactant used according to the present invention individually or as mixture can be by following formula
(II) it represents:
R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v (II)
Wherein:
R1Represent linear chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl (it contains about 8 to 24 carbon atoms) or alkylbenzene
Base (wherein linear or branched alkyl group contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms),
R2The alkylidene for containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms is represented,
G represents the sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms,
T indicates the value in 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4 range, and
V indicates the value in 1 to 15 range.
Preferably, which corresponds to formula (IV), in which:
R1Expression linear chain or branched chain, the saturated or unsaturated alkyl containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
G indicates glucose, fructose or galactolipin, preferably glucose,
T indicates the value in 0 to 3 range, and preferably equal to 0,
And R2It is as previously defined with v.
For example, in formula (II) alkyl as representated by designated symbol v (more) glycosides nonionic surfactant the degree of polymerization
Averagely in 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4 range.The degree of polymerization is more particularly average 1 to 2 and also better in 1.1 to 1.5 models
In enclosing.
Glycosidic bond between sugar unit is 1,6- or Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-key, preferably Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-key.
The compound of formula (II) for use in the present invention is especially by Cognis company with title(600CS/U、
1200 and 2000) or(818,1200 and 2000) product sold represents.It is also possible to using by SEPPIC company
With title Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (orNS 10) sale production
Product, the product sold by BASF AG with title Lutensol GD 70, or sold by ChemY company with title AG10LK that
A bit.
It is also possible to for example using Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-(C8-C16) alkyl polyglucoside, as 53 weights relative to total solution weight
The aqueous solution for measuring %, by Cognis with label818UP sale.
, it is preferable to use by Cognis with label in all these alkyl (more) glycosides nonionic surfactantThe Plantacare 818 (INCI: Plantacare 818) of 2000UP sale.
Ii) the aliphatic ester of glycerol and polyglycereol
According to the present invention, the composition may include the aliphatic ester of at least one glycerol and/or polyglycereol.
According to a preferred embodiment, the aliphatic ester of the polyglycereol be selected from by comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units,
It is preferred that the polyglycereol of 3 to 10 glycerol units and at least one containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, also more
10 to 20 carbon atoms and the ester that even also better the reaction of the fatty acid of 10 to 18 carbon atoms generates well.Containing 8 to
The fatty acid of 24 carbon atoms can be linear chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated.
The fatty acid can be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitinic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, the last of the ten Heavenly stems
Or mixtures thereof acid and octanoic acid,.
The aliphatic ester of the polyglycereol can be selected from monoesters, diester, three esters and four esters, polyester and its mixture.It is preferred that making
With fatty-acid monoester, diester or three esters or mixture of the ester with low esterification degree, such as polyglycereol.The fat of the polyglycereol
Acid esters can be in the form of mixtures of the ester with low esterification degree, such as the mixture or monoesters of monoesters and diester, diester and three esters
Mixture.
According to a kind of embodiment, the aliphatic ester of the polyglycereol is selected from sweet by gathering comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units
It is oily with it is at least one containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms fatty acid (such as oleic acid or linoleic acid) it is anti-
The ester that should be generated.
Can specifically mentioned -2 distearate of polyglycereol, especially such as by NIHON EMULSION with title Emalex PGSA
Sale;Ten stearate of Natrulon H-10, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-1810S;Oil
Acid glyceride, especially as COGNIS is sold with title Monomuls 90-O 18;Stearine, especially such as by
COGNIS is sold with title Cutina GMS V;Six stearate of polyglycereol -5, especially such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title
Sunsoft A-186E sale;Five oleate of Natrulon H-10, especially such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-
175S sale;Five stearate of Natrulon H-10, especially such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-185S sale
's;Glycerol caprylate/decylate, especially as sold by STEPAN with title Stepan Mild GCC;Seven oil of Natrulon H-10
Acid esters, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-177S;- 4 isostearate of polyglycereol, especially such as
It is sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT with title Isolan GI 34;- 3 dimerized linoleic acid ester of two isostearoyl base polyglycereol
(diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate), especially such as by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT with
Title Isolan PDI sale;Glycerol monolaurate, especially as COGNIS is sold with title Monomuls 90-L 12;
- 5 trioleate of polyglycereol, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft A-173E;- 2 oleic acid of polyglycereol
Ester, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft Q-17B;Three myristinate of polyglycereol -5, especially such as
It is sold by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft A-143E;- 2 caprylate of polyglycereol, especially such as by TAIYO KAGAKU
With title Sunsoft Q-81B sale;- 2 laurate of polyglycereol, especially such as by TAIYO KAGAKU with title Sunsoft
Q-12D sale.
According to a kind of special embodiment, it is suitable for the fatty acid of the ester of polyglycereol reacted including at least one hydroxyl
Base.It is such situation for ricinoleic acid.Can specifically mentioned -3 ricinoleate ester of polyglycereol (and) anhydrous sorbitol is different
Stearate, especially as CRODA is sold with title Arlacel 1690, -3 ricinoleate ester of polyglycereol, it is special such as by
AARHUSKARLSHAMN is sold with title Akoline PGPR.
According to another embodiment, it is suitable for including at least one hydroxyl with the fatty acid of the ester of polyglycereol reacted
Polyacid.
For purposes of the present invention, the total weight relative to the composition, the second surface activating agent is with 0.05 weight
The range of amount % to 20 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, more preferable 1 weight % to 5 weight % are present in described
In composition.
The protein extract of Moringa vegetable seeds
Composition according to the present invention includes the protein extract of at least one Moringa vegetable seeds.
Moringa includes that about 14 kinds of floristics (wherein especially have Moringa peregrina, M.aptera, M
Concane six, as leg tree (M.drouhardii), M.hildebrandtit ', safflower bulb willow Moringa
(M.longituba)), wing centre section seed Moringa (synonym: oil Drumstick Tree powder) is most known.
It is a kind of fast growing and very well adapts to changeable condition, throughout Asia, Africa and the torrid zone of South America
The tree in area.Its fruit is 30 to 50cm long, is dangled as drumstick, its English name " drumstick tree (drumstick is thus obtained
Tree) ", and the beanpod of its green is used as vegetables in worldwide.
Moringa seed is characterized in that there are a kind of oil, content according to type and the maturity of seed and 21% to
It is changed between 53%.
Other than its oil content, Moringa seed is found to include the compound of property of protein (referring particularly to article
“Isolation and characterization of a flocculating protein from Moringa
Oleifera lam ", U.Gassenschmidt, K.D.Jany, B.Tausche and H.R.Niebergall, Biochimica
And biophysics acta, 1243:477-481,1995;"Active agents and mechanism of
Coagulation of turbid waters using Moringa oleifera ", A.Ndabigengesere, K.Subba
Narasiah and B.G.Talbot, Water research, 29,2:703-710,1995).
According to a preferred embodiment, composition of the invention includes that the albumen of at least one oil Drumstick Tree powder seed mentions
Take object.
The extract is preferably obtained from the skimmed milk of oil Drumstick Tree powder seed, and then extracts in buffered aqueous medium, and
Then separated by cation-exchange chromatography.
Preferably, the protein extract obtains in the water-bearing media that pH is greater than or equal to 3, preferably 3 to 8.
Protein extract according to the present invention is also disclosed for example in 6,500,470 B1 of patent application US.
Can be mentioned that commercially available product, such as sold by BASF AG with title Purisoft POE LS 9726 that
A bit.
Preferably, for purposes of the present invention, the protein extract of Moringa vegetable seeds is relative to the composition
Total weight is present in the combination with the amount within the scope of 0.001 weight % to 5 weight %, preferably 0.001 weight % to 2 weight %
In object.
Kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclic polymer
Composition according to the present invention includes at least one kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium
Cyclic polymer.
It is described cation cyclic polymer be contain correspond to formula (IV) or (V) unit as chain main component it is equal
Polymers or copolymer:
In the formula, d and e are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of d+e is equal to 1;R32Indicate hydrogen atom or methyl;R30And R31Each other solely
On the spot indicate C1-C8Alkyl, wherein alkyl are C1-C5Hydroxyalkyl, wherein alkyl be C1-C4Amido alkyl;R30And R31Also
Can nitrogen-atoms connected to them indicate heterocycle such as piperidyl or morpholinyl together;R30And R31Preferred table independently of one another
Show C1-C4Alkyl;Y-For organic or inorganic anion such as bromide ion, chloride ion, acetate, borate, citrate, tartaric acid
Root, bisulfate ion, bisulfite, sulfate radical or phosphate radical.
These polymer are particularly described in FR 2 080 759 and FR 2 190 406.
Cationic cyclic polymer of the invention is the water with the charge density greater than 4meq/g, preferably greater than 5meq/g
Soluble polymer.Such as polyvinyl alcohol sulfuric ester potassium can be used to measure as titration solution by colloid titration method described water-soluble
The charge density of property cation cyclic polymer.
In the polymer being as defined above, can more particularly it refer to by Nalco company with title " Merquat 100 " sale
Dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer (and its lower molecular wt homologue) and with title Merquat 550 sell
The copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide.
According to a preferred embodiment, the kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium are cyclic annular
Polymer phase for the composition total weight with 0.01 weight % to 3 weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % to 2 weight %,
More preferable 0.1 weight % is present in composition of the invention to 1.5 weight % ranges.
Oil
Composition of the invention includes at least one oil, is selected from or mixtures thereof hydrocarbon ils, vegetable oil.
Term " oil " in the application indicates not soluble in water under room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure and is any non-of liquid
Ion lipophilic compound is different from silicone oil as previously defined.In other words, oil herein refers to alkyl oil.
For purposes of the present invention, term " water-insoluble " refers under 25 DEG C and atmospheric pressure its spontaneous pH in water
Under solubility be lower than 1% and preferably shorter than 0.5% compound.The oil preferably have less than 5 DEG C fusing point and 25 DEG C,
1s-1Shear rate under be lower than 500cPs viscosity.
Term " alkyl oil " is understood to mean that substantially by carbon atom and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen atom and nitrogen-atoms
It is formed, and the oil being even made of carbon atom and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen atom and nitrogen-atoms, not silicon atoms or fluorine
Atom;It may include ester, ether, amine and amide group.
The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
" non-volatile " vapour pressure indicated under 25 DEG C and atmospheric pressure of term is non-zero and is less than 0.02mmHg
(2.66Pa), also better less than 10-3The oil of mmHg (0.13Pa).
Term " ethereal oil " indicate the vapour pressure under 25 DEG C and atmospheric pressure be 0.13Pa to 40000Pa (0.001 to
300mmHg) and the oil of preferably 1.3 to 1300Pa (0.01 to 10mm Hg).
Hydrocarbon ils is also referred to as mineral oil.Term " hydrocarbon ils " or " mineral oil " are indicated in straight chain, branch or ring-type, saturation or not
It is saturated the compound substance of the hydrocarbon of oil form.These oil are obtained by distilling and refining by crude oil.Hydrocarbon ils or mineral oil are alkane, ring
The compound of or mixtures thereof alkane, aromatic hydrocarbon.It is highly preferred that the hydrocarbon ils contains the chain with 15-40 carbon atom.
Term " vegetable oil " indicates oil as defined above, and the species by belonging to plant kingdom obtain.
As the example of hydrocarbon ils for use in the present invention, can be mentioned that:
The mixture (INCI: mineral oil) of alkyl oil derived from petroleum,
Volatility or non-volatile atoleine,
Liquid petrolatum,
Polyolefin, and especially poly decene,
Isoparaffin such as isohexadecane, Permethyl 99A and Parleam are such as sold by NOF Corporation company
It sellsOily (INCI: Parleam).
In above-mentioned hydrocarbon ils, be below it is preferable to use:
The mixture of alkyl oil derived from petroleum,
Volatility or non-volatile atoleine, and
Liquid petrolatum, and
Polyolefin, and especially poly decene.
Term " poly decene " expression C10nH(20n)+2Any compound, wherein n range be 3 to 9, correspond to it is Americanized
The CTFA word of cosmetic, toilet articles and perfume association (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association)
Allusion quotation, the 7th edition, the title " poly decene (polydecene) " in 1997, and also correspond to identical INCI of US and European.
These are poly- 1- decene hydrogenated products.Among them, particularly n range is 3 to 7 in selecting type according to the present invention
Those of.
Examples which may be mentioned include by Amoco Chemical company with title366NF Polydecene sale
Product, and by Fortum company with titleThose of 2002FG, 2004FG, 2006FG and 2008FG sale.
Preferred hydrocarbon ils is the mixture (INCI: mineral oil) of the alkyl oil derived from petroleum, volatility or non-volatile
Or mixtures thereof the atoleine of property.
It can be mentioned that the product (INCI: mineral oil) sold by Oxiteno company with trade name Emcaplus 70.
As the example for being suitable for vegetable oil of the invention, can be mentioned that:
Sweet Almond Oil,
Argan oil,
Avocado oil,
Peanut oil,
Camellia caul-fat,
Safflower oil,
Malus spectabilis oil (calophyllum oil),
Coconut oil,
Rapeseed oil,
Coconut oil (copra oil),
Coriander seed oil,
Calaba oil,
Wheat-germ oil,
Jojoba oil or Jojoba liquid wax,
Linseed oil,
Macadimia nut oil,
Maize germ oil,
Hazelnut oil,
Nut oil,
Vernonia oil (vernonia oil),
Apricot kernel oil,
Olive oil,
Evening primrose oil,
Palm oil,
Passionflower oil,
Grape seed oil,
Attar of rose,
Castor oil,
Rye-seed oil,
Sesame oil,
Rice bran oil,
Soya-bean oil or soybean oil, and
Sunflower oil.
Preferably, composition of the invention includes at least one selected from volatility or non-volatile atoleine, coconut
The oil of or mixtures thereof oil, soybean oil.
When oil is present in the composition, relative to the total weight of final composition, oily total amount is preferably 0.01
Weight % to 20 weight %, also better 0.05 weight % to 10 weight % and more particularly 0.1 weight % to 5 weight % ranges
It is interior.
It can be used for the ether of the present composition
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition also includes at least one additional oil, is selected from formula (VI)
Ether,
R5-O-R6Formula (VI)
In formula (VI):
R5And R6It may be the same or different, indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain6-C25Alkyl or alkenyl.
Preferably, the ether of formula (VI) is selected from wherein group R5And R6It may be the same or different, indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain6-C12
The compound of alkyl or alkenyl.
More particularly, according to the present invention, group R5And R6It is identical.
A special embodiment according to the present invention, preferred dialkyl ether are selected from di-n-hexyl ether, two n-heptyls
Ether, di-n-octylether, two n-nonyl ethers, two positive decyl ethers, diiso decyl ether, two dodecyl ethers, two n-tetradecane base ethers,
Or mixtures thereof two n-hexadecyl ethers, two n-octadecane base ethers.
R5And R6It is preferred that indicating C8Group.
These compounds can be prepared according to method described in patent application DE 41 27 230.
Most preferably, the ether of formula (VI) is di-n-octylether (INCI: dicaprylyl ether).This compound is commercially available
, such as by Cognis (BASF) company with those of title Cetiol OE sale, or by Ecogreen Oleochemicals
Company is with those of title Rofetan OE sale.
Advantageously, when it is present, the ether of formula (VI) relative to the composition weight with usually 0.01 weight % extremely
Amount within the scope of 15 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, more preferable 0.5 weight % to 5 weight % exists.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the composition for handling keratin fiber, it includes:
A) at least one cationic surfactant;
B) non-ionic surface of or mixtures thereof at least one aliphatic ester selected from alkyl (more) glycosides, glycerol and polyglycereol
Activating agent;
C) protein extract of at least one Moringa vegetable seeds;
D) at least one kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclic polymer;
E) at least one oil selected from or mixtures thereof mineral oil, vegetable oil;With
F) ether of at least one formula (VI),
R5-O-R6Formula (VI)
Wherein:
R5And R6It may be the same or different, indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain6-C25Alkyl or alkenyl.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the composition for handling keratin fiber, relative to
The total weight of the composition includes by weight:
A) 0.05% to 5% at least one cationic surfactant;
B) 1% to 5% at least one is selected from or mixtures thereof aliphatic ester of alkyl (more) glycosides, glycerol and polyglycereol
Nonionic surfactant;
C) protein extract of 0.001% to 2% at least one Moringa vegetable seeds;
D) 0.05% to 2% at least one kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclic polymerization
Object;With
E) 0.1% to 5% at least one oil selected from or mixtures thereof mineral oil, vegetable oil.
Preferably, the total weight relative to the composition, the composition also include 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %
The ether of formula (VI) as disclosed above.
Galen form
Composition according to the present invention can be in the form of the liquid of thickening, frost or gel.It is preferred that combination according to the present invention
Object is in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsion, particularly nano oil-in-water emulsion or microemulsion.
These lotions can prepare (PIT lotion) especially through phase transition temperature technology, wherein constitute the drop of oily phase
Average-size is being given within definite limitation, and as 0.1 to 4 μm (100 to 4000nm).The principle of phase transition temperature (or PIT) emulsification
It is theoretically well known to the skilled person;It is described in nineteen sixty-eight by K.Shinoda
(J.Chem.Soc.Jpn., 1968,89,435).Show that the emulsifying technology allows to obtain stable fine emulsion
(K.Shinoda and H.Saito, J.Interface Sci., 1969,30,258).The technology early in 1972 just by
Mitsui et al. is applied to (" Application of the phase-inversion-temperature in cosmetics
method to the emulsification of cosmetics";T.Mitsui, Y.Machida and F.Harusawa,
American.Cosmet.Perfum, 1972,87,33).
Composition according to the present invention can be naturally in addition containing all standard adjuvants encountered in shampoo art, example
Such as fragrance, preservative, chelating agent, thickener, moisturizer, anti-dandruff agent or antiseborrheic, vitamin, sun-screening agent, suspending agent
Deng.
Method and purposes
The invention further relates to the methods for handling keratin fiber, especially hair comprising by combination of the invention
Object is applied to the step of fiber.
The method that method as described above is preferably used to conditioning keratin fibers, particularly hair.
Another aspect of the present invention is the use that combination of the above object of the invention is used for conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair
On the way.
Preferably, the invention further relates to combination of the above objects to reduce the subparticle for including in air in keratin fiber, spy
It is not the purposes deposited on hair.
It provides and illustrates non-limiting embodiment of the invention.
Embodiment
Prepare four kinds of wash-free conditioners: a kind of (invention formulation A) according to the present invention and three kinds, which compare, (compares formulation
B, C and D):
Compare formulation B and C and respectively contains the polymer for being different from claimed polymer in the present invention;Compare preparation
Object D contains the silicone oil being different from such as claimed oil in the present invention.
Invention formulation is prepared according to the conventional method for being used to prepare conditioning formulation and compares formulation.By water phase and
It is oily mutually to be mixed respectively at 70 DEG C to uniform, then two-phase is mixed at 70 DEG C with the stirring of 600rpm speed by using VMI.
To invention formulation and compare formulation and evaluate, including transparency, conditioning effect and particle-resistant deposition effect
Fruit.
Transparency is evaluated by turbidity using the 2100N nephelometer machine from HACH.
Term " transparent or translucent " is understood to mean that composition, and with 400NTU is less than, (turbidimetry is turbid at 25 DEG C
Spend unit) and there is the turbidity for being less than 250NTU preferably at 25 DEG C.
Conditioning effect is evaluated by following steps by hairdresser: as disposable in drying hair on 6 female consumers
Type hair conditioner is using each invention formulation or compares formulation.Subsequent combing hair.Score is finally provided respectively to each formulation:
1: conditioning effect is excessively poor, and hair tangles completely and dries very much upon application, it is very difficult to comb;
2: conditioning effect is poor, and hair entanglement or dry, is not easy to comb upon application;
3: conditioning effect is good, and hair is smooth, soft and do not tangle, and is easy combing;
4: conditioning effect is very good, and hair is very smooth and submissive, is very easy to combing.
When the average of formulation is greater than or equal to 2.5, which is considered to have desired conditioning.
Finally, it then follows following scheme evaluation invention formulation and the particle-resistant deposition effect for comparing formulation:
1. comparing formulation B, C and D as leave conditioning products and being applied separately to drying hair sample invention formulation A
On;
Carbon dust is applied on the sample 2. being blown to carbon dust on the hair sample by previous step preparation using fan;
3. shooting the Microelements in Hair using the SEM image analytical equipment SEM sold by JOEL company with title JSM-606OLA
The photo of product, and analyze the carbon dust on the hair sample using image analysis method and deposit.
Carbon dust for the evaluation is intended to the subparticle for including in simulated air or especially PM 2.5.With
When Malvern Mastersizer 3000 is tested, the granularity of the carbon dust in aqueous solution is distributed between 0.5 μm to 10 μm,
Granularity corresponding to the subparticle (including PM 2.5) in air.
The composition of PM 2.5 or subparticle depends on place and season.As the example of China, PM 2.5 includes but not
It is limited to: geological materials, the road for being such as laid with or not being laid with, building, agricultural operation, wind-blown soil;Organic substance, from culinary art,
Residential heating, the field burning of crop cover, Forest Fire and Grassland Fire;Organic carbon, such as the conversion of volatile organic compounds;
Ammonium, sulfate, nitrate and fugitive dust, referring to " Winter and Summer PM 2.5Chemical Compositions in
Fourteen Chinese Cities ", Jun-ji CAO et al., Journal of the Air and Waste
Management Association, 24th, in September, 2012.
More specifically, by one end of hair sample is fixed on horizontal positioned shelf will with invention formulation and
The sample for comparing formulation processing is placed in the chamber equipped with carbon dust, a fan and a particle detector.
Fan is placed at chamber center.Surface plate with 0.1g hydrocarbon black powder is placed in below fan, at center.
Particle detector (the Dust Trak II Model 8532 sold by Technical Sourcing Internation) is placed in chamber and last pass hull closure
Chamber.
Then fan is opened 10 minutes, and is then turned off.After five minutes, sample is removed from chamber and is seen in the secure execution mode (sem
It examines.
Coverage value is deposited to indicate the particle-resistant deposition effect of formulation by particle, passes through conventionally available image point
Analysis tool obtains the particle and deposits coverage value.
The value that particle deposits coverage rate is lower, and particle-resistant deposition effect is better.
Evaluation result is listed here.
As shown in above listed result, compared to formulation B, C and D, invention formulation A shows improved conditioning
Balance between effect and particle-resistant deposition effect.In addition, invention formulation A has desired transparent appearance.However compares and match
Object B and C processed does not provide enough conditioning effects to hair although showing good particle-resistant deposition effect;And compare preparation
Object D has the particle-resistant deposition effect of difference.In addition, it is transparent for comparing formulation D not.
Claims (18)
1. it is a kind of for handling the composition of keratin fiber, it includes:
A) at least one cationic surfactant;
B) non-ionic surface active of or mixtures thereof at least one aliphatic ester selected from alkyl (more) glycosides, glycerol and polyglycereol
Agent;
C) protein extract of at least one Moringa vegetable seeds;
D) at least one kation alkyl diallylamine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclic polymer;With
E) at least one oil selected from or mixtures thereof mineral oil, vegetable oil.
2. composition described in claim 1, be it is transparent or translucent, preferably comprise at least one
The ether of kind formula (VI),
R5-O-R6Formula (VI)
Wherein:
R5And R6It may be the same or different, indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain6-C25Alkyl or alkenyl;
Preferably, the ether of formula (VI) is selected from wherein group R5And R6It may be the same or different, indicate the C of linear chain or branched chain6-C12Alkyl
Or the compound of alkenyl.
3. composition of any of claims 1 or 2, for without silicone, the preferably described composition is free of silicone.
4. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from formula (I)
Compound,
Wherein,
R1To R4It may be the same or different, represent the aliphatic group or aromatic group comprising 1 to 30 carbon atom of linear chain or branched chain,
Such as aryl or alkylaryl, and group R1To R4At least one of include 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
X-It is the anionic counter-ion selected from halide ion;
It is preferred that in formula (I), R1To R4It may be the same or different, represent the aliphatic group of linear chain or branched chain, including C1-C30Alkyl,
C1-C30Alkenyl, C1-C30Alkoxy, polyoxygenated (C2-C6) alkene, C1-C30Alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamidoalkyl (C2-C6) alkane
Base, (C12-C22) alkyl acetates, C1-C30Hydroxy alkyl, and
X-It is chloride ion.
5. composition as claimed in claim 4, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary alkylammonium halides, alkyl front three
Or mixtures thereof base ammonium halide, palmityl amido oxypropyl trimethyl ammonium halide;It is preferably selected from tetra-alkyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl group diformazan
Ammonium chloride, alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, the mountain is based on trimethylammonium chloride, VARISOFT TA100, cetyl front three
Ammonium chloride, benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium chloride, ethoxy oleyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, bisisostearamidopropyldimonium
Or mixtures thereof (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride;It is more preferably selected from the mountain is based on trimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chlorination
Or mixtures thereof ammonium, ethoxy oleyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
6. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the cationic surfactant is relative to described
The total weight of composition exists with the amount within the scope of 0.01 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % to 5 weight %.
7. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the alkyl (more) glycosides nonionic surfactant
Compound selected from the formula (II) individually or as mixture,
R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v (II)
Wherein:
R1Represent linear chain or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or in which linear chain or branched chain containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms
Alkyl contains the alkyl phenyl of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably R1Represent linear chain or branched chain, it is saturated or unsaturated containing 8 to
The alkyl of 18 carbon atoms,
R2The alkylidene containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms is represented,
Sugar unit of the G representative containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactolipin, more preferable glucose,
T indicates the value in 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4 range, and
V indicates the value in 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4 range.
8. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the aliphatic ester of the glycerol and polyglycereol is selected from
By the polyglycereol comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units and it is at least one containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms
The ester that the reaction of fatty acid generates;It is preferably selected from olein.
9. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the nonionic surfactant is relative to described
The total weight of composition is with 0.05 weight % to 20 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, more preferable 1 weight % to 5
Amount within the scope of weight % exists.
10. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the protein extraction of the Moringa vegetable seeds
Object is the protein extract of oil Drumstick Tree powder seed.
11. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the protein extraction of the Moringa vegetable seeds
Object relative to the composition total weight with 0.001 weight % to 5 weight %, preferably 0.001 weight % to 2 weight % ranges
Interior amount is present in the composition.
12. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the kation alkyl diallylamine or two
Compound of the diallyl dialkyl ammonium cyclic polymer selected from the unit corresponding to formula (IV) or (V) as the main composition of chain:
In formula (IV) and (V):
D and e are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
D+e=1,
R32Indicate hydrogen atom or methyl,
R30And R31C is indicated independently of one another1-C8Alkyl, wherein alkyl are C1-C5Hydroxyalkyl, wherein alkyl be C1-C4Amide
Base alkyl, nitrogen-atoms connected to them indicate heterocycle such as piperidyl or morpholinyl together,
Y-For organic or inorganic anion such as bromide ion, chloride ion, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate anion, hydrogen sulfate
Root, bisulfite, sulfate radical or phosphate radical,
Preferably, R30And R31It is preferred independently of one another to indicate C1-C4Alkyl,
Y-Preferably chloride ion,
Wherein the kation alkyl diallylamine of the unit with formula (IV) or (V) or dialkyl diallyl ammonium are cyclic annular
Polymer has the charge density greater than 4meq/g, preferably greater than 5meq/g, more preferably greater than 6meq/g.
13. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein the kation alkyl diallylamine or two
Diallyl dialkyl ammonium cyclic polymer is diallyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride homopolymer.
14. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 13, wherein the kation alkyl diallylamine or two
Diallyl dialkyl ammonium cyclic polymer relative to the composition total weight with 0.01 weight % to 3 weight %, preferably
The range of 0.05 weight % to 2 weight %, more preferable 0.1 weight % to 1.5 weight % are present in the composition.
15. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 14, wherein the oil is selected from volatility or non-volatile
Or mixtures thereof atoleine, coconut oil, soybean oil.
16. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 15, wherein gross weight of the oil relative to the composition
Amount with 0.01 weight % to 20 weight %, also better 0.05 weight % to 10 weight % and more particularly 0.1 weight % to 5 weights
The amount measured within the scope of % exists.
17. a kind of method for conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair comprising will be according to preceding claims 1 to 16
Any one of described in composition the step of being applied to the fiber.
18. composition described in any one of preceding claims 1 to 16 reduces the subparticle for including in air in keratin
The purposes deposited on fiber, particularly hair.
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PCT/CN2016/080197 WO2017185225A1 (en) | 2016-04-26 | 2016-04-26 | Composition for treating keratin fibers |
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US6500470B1 (en) * | 1998-03-24 | 2002-12-31 | Laboratoires Serobiologiques (Societe Anonyme) | Use of at least one protein extract of the moringa genus plant seeds and corresponding cosmetic and/or pharmacological composition |
CN103079537A (en) * | 2010-09-06 | 2013-05-01 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least two cationic surfactants |
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DE102004045274A1 (en) * | 2004-09-16 | 2006-03-23 | Henkel Kgaa | Active substance mixture for the treatment of keratinic fibers |
DE102007039741A1 (en) * | 2007-08-22 | 2009-02-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair treatment agent with surfactant (s) and melatonin / agomelatine |
-
2016
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US6500470B1 (en) * | 1998-03-24 | 2002-12-31 | Laboratoires Serobiologiques (Societe Anonyme) | Use of at least one protein extract of the moringa genus plant seeds and corresponding cosmetic and/or pharmacological composition |
CN103079537A (en) * | 2010-09-06 | 2013-05-01 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least two cationic surfactants |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
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M: "Pantene aqua light dual phase sprey for strong hair", 《HTTP://WWW.COSDNA.COM/CHS/COSMETIC_1E8E59294.HTML》 * |
XMRSMOSHX: "Proganix Quench Shampoo", 《HTTP://WWW.COSDNA.COM/CHS/COSMETIC_0A7D221194.HTML》 * |
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