CN116887808A - Reduced irritation surfactant compositions - Google Patents

Reduced irritation surfactant compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116887808A
CN116887808A CN202180094692.9A CN202180094692A CN116887808A CN 116887808 A CN116887808 A CN 116887808A CN 202180094692 A CN202180094692 A CN 202180094692A CN 116887808 A CN116887808 A CN 116887808A
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acid
composition
component
alkyl
composition according
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Inventor
黄宇
孙玲玲
J·拉布罗
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for an indwelling product comprising the following components: a) At least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols or fatty acid esters of etherified polyglycerols or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerols; and B) at least one conventional irritant surfactant other than component A); wherein components A) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1:3 to 3:1.

Description

Reduced irritation surfactant compositions
Technical Field
The present invention relates to compositions of surfactants having significantly reduced irritation, particularly to the skin.
Background
Skin is widely present on the surface of the human body. Many people have long sought to refresh the body surface in order to feel comfortable in daily life and work. The ultimate goal in the cosmetic field has been to impart skin benefits to the product, such as hydration, moisturization, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, slippery feel, and the like.
Keratin materials (e.g., skin) are known to suffer from aging due to a variety of factors; and thus, an anti-aging effect can be achieved through various approaches. For example, the Stratum Corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis. Promoting the renewal of SC may make the skin smoother and brighter and fine lines or wrinkles on the skin will be less pronounced.
In particular, skin care products are often provided in an leave-on form, meaning that the product is in continuous and prolonged contact with the skin. On the other hand, one or more surfactants are added to skin care products for various purposes, especially for leave-on products. For example, for a desired surface activity, it is possible to use a stimulating surfactant. However, various surfactants are known to cause irritation to the skin.
There is thus still a need in the art to reduce or even avoid irritation caused by various surfactants.
Summary of The Invention
Through intensive research, the inventors have unexpectedly found that by specifically using a composition comprising at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol or fatty acid ether of polyglycerol and a stimulating surfactant, the composition can exhibit significantly reduced stimulation compared to the stimulating surfactant alone.
Accordingly, one subject of the present invention is thus a composition comprising:
at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerols; and
at least one conventional irritant surfactant.
The compositions according to the invention are particularly useful for formulating products for conditioning the skin. Thus, the compositions of the present invention may be in various forms, particularly solutions, such as milks, sprays, and the like, for application to the scalp, directly to the skin.
Embodiments of the application
Throughout the specification (including the claims) the term "comprising" is to be understood as synonymous with "comprising" at least one, unless otherwise mentioned. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout the specification (including the claims) the embodiments defined by "comprising" and the like are to be understood as encompassing the preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of … …" and the preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of … …".
Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," having the meaning conventionally known in the art, e.g., within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% -11%, and "about 2%" means 1.8% -2.2%).
In the present application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, the content, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
The present application relates to an aqueous composition for conditioning skin comprising the following components:
A) At least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerols; and
b) At least one conventional irritating surfactant other than component A).
The present invention thus provides the use of a composition for enhancing the surface properties of a cosmetic product, while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by the skin.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
Component A), nonionic surfactant
The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerols.
As component a) of the composition according to the invention, mono-or polyglycerolated surfactants can be used, which preferably comprise an average of 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly 1 to 10 glycerol groups, and especially 1.5 to 5.
The mono-or polyglycerolated surfactant is preferably selected from compounds of the formula:
R"O[CH 2 CH(CH 2 OH)O] m H，
R"O[CH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 O] m h or
R"O[CH(CH 2 OH)CH 2 O] m H；
In the formula:
● R "represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, and more particularly between 1.5 and 6; r' may optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R "may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether groups and/or amide groups. R' preferably represents a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated C 10 -C 20 Alkyl and/or alkenyl groups.
Name may be used, for example from ChimexNF sold polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxy lauryl ether.
The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for the practice of the present invention are more particularly selected from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (especially from 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If these compounds are unsaturated, they may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably have the following formula (XII):
wherein the method comprises the steps of
-R 3 Representing straight or branched C 8 -C 40 Alkyl or alkenyl, and preferably C 8 -C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, and
-c is an integer between 1 and 200 (inclusive), preferably between 2 and 50, and more particularly between 8 and 30, for example 20.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol used as a nonionic surfactant.
According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is selected from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
The fatty acid may be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
The fatty acid esters of polyglycerol may be selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable to use esters having a low degree of esterification, for example fatty acid monoesters of polyglycerol, fatty acid diesters of polyglycerol or fatty acid triesters of polyglycerol, or mixtures. The fatty acid esters of polyglycerols may be in the form of a mixture of esters having a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of mono-and di-esters or a mixture of mono-, di-and tri-esters.
Polyglyceryl-2 distearate may be mentioned in particular, as sold under the name Emalex PGSA by NIHON EMULSION; polyglycerol-10 decastearate, in particular as sold under the name sunoft Q-1810S by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-5 hexastearate, in particular as sold under the name sunoft a-186E by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-2 laurate, in particular as sold under the name sunoft Q-12D by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-5 laurate, in particular as sold under the name Sunsoft A-121E-C by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-10 pentaoleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name sunoft Q-175S; polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, in particular as sold under the name sunoft Q-185S by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-4 isostearate, in particular as sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT; diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dilinoleate, particularly as sold under the name Isolan PDI by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT; polyglycerol-2 oleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name sunoft Q-17B; polyglycerol-5 trimyristate ester, in particular as sold under the name sunoft a-143E by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-2 caprylate, in particular as sold under the name sunoft Q-81B by TAIYO KAGAKU; polyglycerol-6 dicaprate is especially marketed under the name SUNSOFT Q-102H-C by TAIYO KAGAKU.
Component a) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 20%, for example 0.5% to 10% or 1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Component B), conventional irritant surfactants
For the purposes of the present invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise, as component B), at least one conventional irritating surfactant in addition to the surfactants used for component A). According to one embodiment of the invention, component B) may comprise component B-1), which is at least one amphoteric surfactant; component B-2), which is at least one cationic surfactant; and/or component B-3) which is at least one further nonionic surfactant in addition to the surfactant used for component a).
The term "irritant surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%. For the purposes of the present invention, epiSkin cell viability may be determined by the following steps: applying an effective amount of the composition to a reconstructed skin model (i.e., epiSkin), and standingAnd then counting the viable cell amount, wherein "EpiSkin" can be EpiSkin TM The name of (c) is obtained from L' Oreal.
Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that the simultaneous use of component a) with component B) may significantly reduce irritation, especially skin irritation, that may be caused by component B).
Component B-1), amphoteric surfactant
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises as component B-1) at least one amphoteric surfactant, which may also be referred to as zwitterionic surfactant. In particular, the invention is particularly useful for conventional stimulatory ampholytic surfactants, which preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant that can be used in the present invention can be a quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivative which contains at least one anionic group, such as carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate groups, and wherein at least one of the aliphatic groups or aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Among the optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives which can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of compounds of the following corresponding structures (III) and (IV):
In the formula (III):
●R 4 represents an acid R derived from the acid preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil 4 C of-C (O) -OH 10 -C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;
●R 5 represents beta-hydroxyethyl; and is also provided with
●R 6 Represents carboxymethyl;
and
wherein:
● A represents-CH 2 CH 2 OX'；
● A' represents- (CH) 2 ) z -Y', wherein z = 1 or 2;
● X' represents a group-CH 2 -C(O)-OH、-CH 2 -C(O)-OZ’、-CH 2 CH 2 -C(O)-OH、-CH 2 -CH 2 -C (O) -OZ' or a hydrogen atom;
● Y 'represents-C (O) -OH, -C (O) -OZ' or a group-CH 2 -CH(OH)-SO 3 H or-CH 2 -CH(OH)-SO 3 Z’；
● Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (e.g., sodium, potassium or magnesium); an ammonium ion; or ions derived from: organic amines, and in particular amino alcohols, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane.
●R 7 Represents the acid R preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil 7 C of C (O) -OH 10 -C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl; alkyl, especially C 17 Alkyl and its isomeric form, or unsaturated C 17 A group.
By way of example, mention may be made of the N-cocoamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal (for example sodium); or for example by Rhodia under the trade nameCocoyl amphodiacetates sold by C2M concentrate.
Betaine surfactants, for example (C) 8 -C 20 ) Alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C) 8 -C 20 Alkyl) amide group (C 2 -C 8 Alkyl) betaines and (C) 8 –C 20 Alkyl) amide group (C 2 -C 8 Alkyl) sulfobetaines.
Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine and N-cocoamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of alkali metals (e.g. sodium) are preferably used.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the above mentioned amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine.
According to one embodiment of the invention, among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, the invention particularly employs the type of conventional irritants.
Component B-1) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt% or preferably 0.1 to 3 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
Component B-2), cationic surfactant
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant which may be used as component B-2). Mention may be made, for example, of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the present invention is particularly useful for conventional irritating cationic surfactants preferably having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be particularly mentioned include:
-a) those corresponding to the following general formula (V):
in said formula (V), the radical R 8 To R 11 May be identical or different and represent a linear or branched aliphatic or aromatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, for example an aryl or alkylaryl radicalRadical, radical R 8 To R 11 Comprises 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms such as, inter alia, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. X for (V) - Is an anionic counterion selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfates and (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkylaryl sulfonates, preferably halogen ions, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, and the like.
Aliphatic groups selected from, for example, C 1 -C 30 Alkyl, C 1 -C 30 Alkoxy, polyoxy (C) 2 -C 6 ) Alkylene, C 1 -C 30 Alkylamide group (C) 12 -C 22 ) Alkylamide group (C) 2 -C 6 ) Alkyl, (C) 12 -C 22 ) Alkyl acetate group, C 1 -C 30 Hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of the formula (V), preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium halides, for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example tetraalkylammonium halides or alkyltrimethylammonium halides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium chloride or alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, wherein the alkyl groups contain about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular halides, for example behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, or else, secondly, alkoxysulfates, in particular distearylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate or distearylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, or else, finally, palmitoylamidopropyl trimethylammonium halide, in particular chloride, or stearylaminopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, which is known by the company Van Dyk under the name 70 sales;
-b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (VI) below:
in the formula (VI):
R 12 represents alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
R 13 represents hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 4 An alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R 14 represents C 1 -C 4 An alkyl group;
R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or C 1 -C 4 An alkyl group;
x for formula (VI) - Represents anionic counterions, which are selected in particular from the group consisting of halogen ions, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl aryl sulfonate.
R 12 And R is 13 Preferably represents a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, said alkyl or alkenyl groups being derived from, for example, tallow fatty acid, R 14 Preferably represents methyl, and R 15 Preferably represents a hydrogen atom. Such products are for example named by Rewo corporationW75 sales;
-c) quaternary diammonium or quaternary triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VII):
in the formula (VII):
R 16 represents an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;
R 17 selected from hydrogen, alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or radicals- (CH) 2 ) 3 -N + (R 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a )；R 16a 、R 17a 、R 18a 、R 18 、R 19 、R 20 And R is 21 May be the same or different and is selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X for formula (VII) - Represents anionic counterions, which are selected in particular from the group consisting of halogen ions, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfate, (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Such compounds are, for example, finquat CT-P (quaternary ammonium salt 89) available from Finetex corporation and Finquat CT (quaternary ammonium salt 75) available from Finetex corporation;
-d) quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (VIII) below:
in the formula (VIII):
■R 22 selected from C 1 -C 6 Alkyl and C 1 -C 6 Hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;
■R 23 selected from:
-group
Linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C-based 1 -C 22 Radical R of a hydrocarbon 27 ，
-a hydrogen atom;
■R 25 selected from:
-group
Linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C-based 1 -C 6 Radical R of a hydrocarbon 29 ，
-a hydrogen atom;
■R 24 、R 26 and R is 28 May be identical or different and is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C-based 7 -C 21 A hydrocarbon group;
■ r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers of 2 to 6;
■ r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1, wherein r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t,
■ y is an integer from 1 to 10;
■ x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers of 0 to 10;
■ X for formula (VIII) - Represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion;
provided that the sum x+y+z is 1 to 15, when x is 0, then R 23 R represents 27 And when z is 0, then R 25 R represents 29 。
Alkyl R 22 May be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R 22 Represents methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.
Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.
When R is 23 Is a hydrocarbon-based group R 27 When it is, it may be long and may contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and may contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R is 25 Is a hydrocarbon-based group R 29 When it is, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R 24 、R 26 And R is 28 May be identical or different and is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C-based 11 -C 21 Hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.
For anionic counterions X of formula (VIII) - Preferably a halide, preferably for example chloride, bromide or iodide; (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl sulfonates or (C) 1 -C 4 ) Alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, methylsulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids (e.g., acetate or lactate), or any other anion compatible with ammonium containing ester functionality may be used.
For anionic counterions X of formula (VIII) - Even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
More particularly in the compositions according to the invention are used ammonium salts of formula (VIII), wherein:
-R 22 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1,
-z is equal to 0 or 1,
-r, s and t are equal to 2,
-R 23 selected from:
● Radicals (C)
● Methyl, ethyl or based on C 14 -C 22 The group(s) of the hydrocarbon(s),
● The hydrogen atom is contained in the mixture,
-R 25 selected from:
● Radicals (C)
● The hydrogen atom is contained in the mixture,
-R 24 、R 26 and R is 28 May be identical or different and is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C-based 13 -C 17 Hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VIII) containing one or more ester functions, mention may be made of salts, in particular chlorides or methylsulfates, of: diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxy ethyl methyl ammonium or monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl group preferably contains 14 to 18 carbon atoms and is more particularly obtained from vegetable oils, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl diethanolamine or alkyl diisopropanolamine with fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent, for example an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl halide or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, chloroethylene glycol (glycol chlorohydrin) or chloroglycerol (glycerol chlorohydrin).
Such compounds are for example named by Henkel companyUnder the name of Stepan CorpBy the company Ceca under the name +.>Or by Rewo-Witco company under the name +.>WE 18.
The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di-and triesters, wherein the diester salts constitute the predominant weight.
It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in the patents US-se:Sup>A-4874554 and US-se:Sup>A-4137180.
Behenacyl hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride sold under the name quaammin BTC 131 by KAO may be used.
Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.
Some amines can provide cations upon interaction with other reagents (e.g., certain acids). In such cases, particular amines may be categorized as useful cationic surfactants.
Preferred examples of useful cationic surfactants include non-silicone cationic surfactants including cetyltriammonium, behenyl triammonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, distearylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, methyl (C 9 -C 19 ) Alkyl, (C) 10 -C 20 ) Alkyl (C)Salts of amidoethylimidazolium and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant is a chloride salt or a bromide salt of tetraalkylammonium, alkylaminoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium.
According to one embodiment, among the cationic surfactants which may be present in the composition according to the invention, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyl trimethylammonium salt and dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyl trimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, and mixtures thereof, are more particularly selected.
According to one embodiment of the invention, among the cationic surfactants mentioned above, the invention particularly employs the type of conventional irritant.
Component B-2) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.005 to 5 wt% or 0.01 to 3 wt%, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
Component B-3), a further nonionic surfactant
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one further nonionic surfactant, in addition to the surfactant used for component A), as component B-3). In particular, the invention is particularly useful for conventional irritating nonionic surfactants, which preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85% or even equal to or less than 80%.
Examples of additional nonionic surfactants that may be used include polyols and those having a chain length of, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and still more preferablyEsters of fatty acids which are saturated or unsaturated chains of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated units and/or oxypropylenated units such as their oxyalkylenated derivatives; c (C) 8 -C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and oxidized alkylene derivatives thereof; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkyl glucose) esters of fatty acids (fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose), and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; c (C) 8 -C 24 Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate such as methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, fatty esters of methyl glucoside, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside with oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); mixed esters of methyl glucoside with oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixtures (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate); esters of methyl glucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); esters of methyl glucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); mixtures of methyl glucoside and mono-and di-esters of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); mixtures of methyl glucoside with mono-and diesters of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular by Amerchol company under the name SS sales products, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids with methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, which contain about 20mol of ethylene oxide (CTFAName: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), e.g., by Amerchol Inc. under the nameProducts sold as E-20 distearate; polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, which contain about 20mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular by Amerchol under the name +.>SSE-20 sold under the name GoldschmidtProducts sold by PSE-20, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). Examples which may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those under the CTFA names cetostearyl ether-20 and cetostearyl ether-30, and mixtures thereof.
Sugar ethers which may be mentioned in particular are alkyl polyglucosides, for example decyl glucoside, for example by the name Kao Chemicals10 sold by Henkel under the name +.>2000, and by the company SEPPIC under the name +.>NS10 sales products; octyl/decyl glucoside, e.g. by SEPPIC company under the nameCG 110 products sold or named +.>A product sold by GD 70; lauryl glucoside, e.g. by Henkel company under the name +.>1200N and->1200 sales products; coco glucosides, such as the product sold by Henkel under the name plant 818/UP; cetostearyl glucosides optionally as mixtures with cetostearyl alcohol, e.g. under the name +.>68 sold by Goldschmidt under the name +.>CG90 sales, under the name +.>KE3302 sales; peanut-based glucosides, e.g. in the form of mixtures of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and peanut-based glucosides, are known by the company SEPPIC under the name202 selling; cocoyl ethyl glucoside (cocoyl ethyl glucoside), for example in the form of a mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, is known by the name>82 sales; and mixtures thereof 。
PEG modified esters such as PEG-7 olive oleate, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, PEG-30 glycerol cocoate, PEG-80 glycerol cocoate can also be used.
As examples of useful additional nonionic surfactants, the following may be mentioned additionally: polysorbate families such as polysorbate 20, polysorbate 21, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 61, and polysorbate 80; or glyceride compounds such as caprylic acid glyceride (also referred to as monocaprylic acid glyceride), capric acid glyceride (also referred to as monocaprylic acid glyceride) and lauric acid glyceride (also referred to as monolaurate glyceride), for example PEG-6 caprylic acid/capric acid glyceride.
According to one embodiment of the invention, among the additional nonionic surfactants mentioned above, the invention particularly employs the type of conventional irritant.
Component B-3) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 15%, for example 0.15% to 10% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween), relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
Component B) may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, for example 0.5 to 10 wt.% or 1 to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Combinations of components A) and B)
According to the present invention, it has surprisingly been found that when component A) is used simultaneously with component B) which is a conventional irritating surfactant, irritation which may be caused by component B) is substantially reduced or avoided.
Without being bound by any known theory, it is believed that with respect to a surfactant effective amount of the irritating component B), when the appropriate proportion thereof is replaced by the specific component A), the surfactant effect of component B) is still achieved, but with highly inhibited irritation, especially skin.
According to one embodiment of the invention, it is necessary for a significant portion of the surfactant effective amount to be replaced by a significant amount of component a) in terms of the surfactant effective amount of component B). According to one embodiment, too much of the surfactant effective amount is replaced by component a) may result in an insufficient effect of the desired surfactant. According to one embodiment, too little replacement of an effective amount of surfactant by component a) may result in an insufficient reduction of irritation.
It has surprisingly been found that according to one embodiment of the invention, the "significant amount" may be 1/4 to 3/4 by weight of the surfactant effective amount of component B). For example, when 100g of the product contains a specific irritating component B) in a surfactant effective amount of about 12g, 3 to 9g of it can be replaced by component A) according to the invention.
In other words, in the composition according to the invention, component a) and component B) may be present in the following weight ratios: about 1:3 to 3:1, preferably 1:2 to 2:1 or preferably 1:1.5 to 1.5:1. For example, according to the invention, a 2:1, 1:1, 1:1.5 or 1:2 ratio of component A)/B) may be available.
Containing hydroxy acids
The composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid.
According to the invention, the hydroxyl-containing acid may be, in particular, an alpha-hydroxy acid. According to the invention, the term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is understood to mean a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxy function which occupies the alpha-position of the acid (adjacent to the carbon of the carboxylic acid function). Such acids are preferably present in the final composition in the form of the free acid as well.
The one or more alpha-hydroxy acids include, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 2-hydroxycaproic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, oleanolic acid, ribonic acid, hydroxy malonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use mixtures of these various acids.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the alpha-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having 2-12 carbon atoms or 2-8 carbon atoms or 2-6 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the alpha-hydroxy acid is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.
Examples of hydroxyl-containing acids may include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid; gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, hydroxy acid-containing precursors may also be used for the components. According to the invention, "precursor" means that which is capable of being converted (e.g. by hydrolysis) into the hydroxy-containing acid useful in the invention. An example of such a precursor may in particular be gluconolactone (gluconolactone). For the purposes of the present invention, such precursors are considered to fall under the concept of "hydroxy acid-containing", especially considering that the composition according to the invention is aqueous.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alpha-hydroxy acid is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid, gluconic acid or glycolic acid.
The hydroxyl-containing acid may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.001 to 15 wt%, or 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Medium/solvent
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise as component D) at least one medium/solvent comprising water and/or an organic medium/solvent.
Water and its preparation method
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various amounts. For low viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of leave-on milk, relatively large amounts of water may be used. For example, water is used in an amount of greater than or equal to 40 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention is preferably 40 to 99 wt.%, 50 to 90 wt.% or 60 to 80 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic medium/solvent
The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic media/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic media/solvents (solubility in water greater than or equal to 5% at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).
Examples of organic media/solvents that may be mentioned include the following, alone or as a mixture: straight-chain or branched and preferably saturated mono-or dihydric alcohols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexanediol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, especially C 3 -C 6 Polyols, such as glycerol; polyhydric alcohol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers (especially C 1 -C 4 Alkyl ethers), such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.
When organic media/solvents are present, they are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 40 wt%, preferably from 1 to 30 wt% or from 5 to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Preservative agent
For the purposes of the present invention, the compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise a preservative. The preservative useful according to the invention can be any of those conventionally used in cosmetics, in particular for ampoule products.
For example, preservatives that may be used in accordance with the present invention include methyl chloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, derivatives of hydantoin such as dmdmdmh, parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorophenylglycol ether, benzoic acid and derivatives thereof, such as salts thereof such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino acid-based preservatives, sorbitan octanoate, glyceryl octanoate, and the like, or salicylic acid.
The preservative according to the invention may be present in an amount of 0.01% to 5%, preferably 0.01% to 3% or 0.01% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Chelating agent
According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition may comprise a chelating agent. Such Chelating agents are defined and described in particular in the article "Chelating agents" (Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia ofChemical Technology, volume 5, pages 708-739, published 2003).
As mentioned in this article, examples of chelating agents are polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1, 3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, aminoalcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, aminophenols, schiff bases, tetrapyrroles, sulphur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.
Useful chelating agents for the purposes of the present invention may include ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), aminotriacetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid, and salts thereof, such as N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid (glutamic diacetic acid, GLDA); hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), and salts thereof; hydroxy amino carboxylic acids such as hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine triacetic acid (HEDTA), dihydroxyethyl glycine (DEG), and salts thereof; polyphosphonic acids and salts thereof; other organic acids containing phosphorus, such as phytic acid and its salts, such as sodium phytate, potassium phytate; polycarboxylic acids such as polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and salts thereof.
These agents are particularly useful for reducing electrostatic binding associated with the presence of substantial amounts of water in the intermediate make-up and/or care compositions according to the present invention. For this purpose, the addition of chelating or complexing agents, such as disodium EDTA/tetrasodium EDTA, makes it possible to complex the free ions and more particularly the Ca, especially present in the mother-of-pearl and in the fillers 2+ Cations (mineral fillers). Therefore, when EDTA complexes these ions, the ionic strength of water decreases. Preferably, the agent is selected from amino carboxylic acids, and preferably EDTA or derivatives thereof.
For example, useful chelating agents are selected from the group consisting of sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.
According to the invention, the chelating agent may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.001 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.01 to 0.1 wt% or preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
Polysaccharide
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide, preferably of biotechnological origin.
In particular, these polysaccharides may be chemically modified, as appropriate, to increase their hydrophilic valences, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose).
As examples of polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
a) Algae extracts, such as alginate, carrageenan, and agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include satiagnum from Degussa companyAnd->Alginate which may be mentioned is +.A. by ISP company under the name +.>Sodium alginate sold;
b) Gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), acacia, konjac or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gum and mixtures thereof; examples that may be mentioned include those named by CP Kelco corporationXanthan sold by CG-T under the name +.>Gellan gum sold by CG LA under the name Jaguar HP ++by Rhodia Corp>Guar gum sold; mannan gum sold by GfN and konjac->(1% glucomannan);
c) Starch, which is preferably modified, e.g. derived from, e.g. cereals, such as wheat, corn or rice, legumes, such as white hyacinth beans, tubers, such as potato or tapioca, tapioca starch; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; amidon de from Roquette Corp Potato dregs (potato dregs) modified with sodium hydroxide-neutralized 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, which is known by the name Structure>Sales; by National Starch company under the name Tapioca->Natural tapioca starch powder for sale;
d) Dextrins, e.g. from National Starch company under the nameIs extracted from corn;
e) Cellulose and its derivatives, in particular alkyl cellulose or hydroxyalkyl cellulose; mention may be made in particular of methylcellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose. Examples which may be mentioned include those named by Ashland CorpThe name Natrosol TM Hydroxyethyl cellulose sold by 250HHR PC or by Amerchol company (Dow Chemical) under the name Cellosize TM Hydroxyethyl cellulose sold by QP 4400H under the name Polysurf from AqualonAnd Natrosol Plus->Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose sold;
f) Pectin;
g) Chitosan and derivatives thereof;
h) Polysaccharides comprising at least two sugars, preferably of natural origin, and in particular selected from:
aldoses, e.g.
Pentose sugar: such as ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose,
hexose: such as glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose,
Ketose, for example fructose,
deoxysugars, such as rhamnose, digitoxin, magnetic-hemp or oleanolic fructose,
sugar derivatives, such as uronic acid, e.g. mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glucuronic acid, or sugar alcohols (itols), e.g. mannitol or sorbitol.
Mention may in particular be made of polysaccharides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units and linear sequences of, for example, alpha-L-fucose, alpha-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for example, under the trade name Solarbia company1000PP or1.5P biological gum-1.
i) Anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as those with tetraose consisting of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid as repeat units, such as the product sold by Solarbia company under the reference Glycofilm 1.5P under the name INCI for biose-4;
j) And mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the polysaccharide of the invention is selected from:
gums, such as xanthan or gellan;
cellulose and its derivatives, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose;
polysaccharides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, such as biose-1.
According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide (e.g., according to one embodiment) may also act as a gelling agent for the compositions of the present invention.
According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 2% by weight or 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional active ingredient
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional active ingredients, in particular cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical active ingredients.
In the context of the present invention, the further active ingredient is an active ingredient other than polydatin or resveratrol present in the composition and other active agents as specifically defined above.
Advantageously, such additional active ingredients (cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical active ingredients) may be intended to exert a cosmetic, care or hygiene effect on keratin materials (e.g. skin, including face, hair, eyelashes, scalp and/or coat) and preferably on the skin.
The choice of the further active ingredient is of course regulated by the effect jointly sought by the composition under consideration.
Thus, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise an active ingredient having anti-aging activity or hydrating activity.
Of course, the person skilled in the art will carefully select the optional further active ingredients added to the composition according to the invention in the following way: the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the proposed addition.
These additional active ingredients are generally present in the composition at a level of from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additive agent
According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to the skin. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise various ingredients conventionally available in compositions for conditioning skin, such as moisturizers, fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhea agents, agents for preventing loss and/or promoting regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, acidulants, opacifiers, pearlescers or iridescent agents (nacreous agents), antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives.
A non-exhaustive list of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication No. 2004/0170586, the entire disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. Yet further examples of such additional ingredients can be found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary andHandbook (9 th edition, 2002).
The person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional further additives and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These additives can be selected differently by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties (e.g., consistency or texture). In particular, the additives (if used) and their amounts are specifically determined according to the particular product/application (e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skin care conditioner, etc.).
These additives may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 50% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Method and use
The compositions according to the invention can generally be prepared according to the basic knowledge of the person skilled in the art. However, it will be appreciated that the person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation based on his/her basic knowledge, taking into account the nature of the ingredients used (e.g. their solubility in the vehicle) and the envisaged application of the composition or kit.
The composition according to the invention is preferably useful for formulating skin care products. In addition, from the detailed discussion above, it is understood that the compositions according to the present invention may be free of silicone oils.
The composition according to the invention is preferably useful for formulating leave-on products. The term "leave-on" subject is understood to mean that the subject is present on the skin (including scalp, lips, and other body surfaces) for a period of time, for example, more than 10 minutes, more than 30 minutes, more than 1 hour, or even longer, and then washed or not washed. It is known to avoid prolonged contact of any irritating components with the skin. However, as stated above, by using a irritating surfactant B) in the composition according to the invention, the use of such irritating surfactant B in leave-on products is allowed.
The present invention therefore provides the use of a composition according to the invention for a leave-on product. In turn, the compositions according to the present invention (including those discussed in any of the embodiments herein) may themselves be leave-on compositions.
The present invention therefore provides the use of a composition according to the invention for enhancing the surface properties of a cosmetic and/or therapeutic product, while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by the skin.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which illustrate particularly advantageous embodiments.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not thereby limiting in scope.
Examples
The amount/concentration of ingredients in the compositions/formulations are expressed in weight percent relative to the total weight of each composition/formulation described below.
Materials:
EpiSkin under the name EpiSkin TM Available from L' Oreal;
PEG-7 glycerol cocoate: CETIOLHE, available from BASF;
polyglycerol-5 laurate: SUNSOFTA-121E-C, available from TAIYO KAGAKU; and
other materials not described herein are each commercially available.
Example I preparation of the composition
Compositions were prepared according to examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-3 in table 1 below:
TABLE 1
The compositions listed above are prepared according to methods of manufacture known in the art. Briefly, the process of preparing the composition comprises the steps of:
1) Dissolving lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycerol in hot water at 70deg.C, mixing until completely dissolved;
2) Adding xanthan gum, mixing until no lump is observed, and cooling to room temperature; and
3) Adding the other components one by one according to any sequence.
Example II
Determining the effect of a composition on cell viability, comprising the steps of: an effective amount of the composition is applied to the reconstructed skin model, left to stand, and then the amount of living cells is counted. Higher viability means a more comfortable level.
Sebum migration results are provided as follows:
TABLE 2
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Claims (15)

1. A composition for an indwelling product comprising the following components:
a) At least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerols or fatty acid ethers of polyglycerols; and
b) At least one conventional irritant surfactant other than component a), preferably having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%;
wherein the components A) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1:3 to 3:1.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the components a) and B) are present in a weight ratio of 1:2 to 2:1 or preferably 1:1.5 to 1.5:1.
3. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the component a) is selected from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 10 glycerol units, with at least one fatty acid containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms or 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the component a) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 20%, preferably 0.5% to 10% or 1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein component B) comprises component B-1) at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C) 8 -C 20 ) Alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C) 8 -C 20 Alkyl) amide group (C 2 -C 8 Alkyl) betaines and (C) 8 –C 20 Alkyl) amide group (C 2 -C 8 Alkyl) sulfobetaines.
6. A composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein component B) comprises component B-2) at least one cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyl trimethylammonium salt, and dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salt, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein component B) comprises component B-3) at least one further nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of glucose or alkyl glucose, oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, sugar ethers, PEG-modified esters, polysorbate families and glyceride compounds, in addition to the nonionic surfactant for component a); for example cocoyl glucoside, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, PEG-30 glycerol cocoate, PEG-80 glycerol cocoate, polysorbate 20 or polysorbate 21, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl laurate or PEG-6 caprylate/caprate.
8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt% or 1 to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a hydroxyl-containing monocarboxylic acid.
10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the hydroxyl-containing monocarboxylic acid comprises glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and salicylic acid, preferably lactic acid, gluconic acid, or glycolic acid.
11. The composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the hydroxyl-containing monocarboxylic acid is present in an amount of 0.001 wt% to 15 wt%, preferably 0.01 wt% to 10 wt% or 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polysaccharide selected from gums, such as xanthan gum or gellan gum; cellulose and its derivatives, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, such as biose-1.
13. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the polysaccharide is present in an amount of 0.0001 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.001 to 2 wt% or 0.005 to 1 wt% of polysaccharide, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. An leave-on product comprising the composition according to any of the preceding claims.
15. Use of a composition according to any of the preceding claims 1-13 for enhancing the surface properties of a cosmetic and/or therapeutic product while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by the skin.
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