WO2022088054A1 - Composition for conditioning keratin materials - Google Patents
Composition for conditioning keratin materials Download PDFInfo
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- WO2022088054A1 WO2022088054A1 PCT/CN2020/125313 CN2020125313W WO2022088054A1 WO 2022088054 A1 WO2022088054 A1 WO 2022088054A1 CN 2020125313 W CN2020125313 W CN 2020125313W WO 2022088054 A1 WO2022088054 A1 WO 2022088054A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 141
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
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- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp or hair along with scalp.
- the invention also relates to a process for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp or hair along with scalp, using the composition of the present invention.
- Keratin materials are present widely on surface of human bodies, e.g., skin, scalp and hair. Many people have for a long time sought to fresh the body surface, so as to feel comfortable in daily life and work. Amongst others, the feeling of sticky/greasy is particularly concerned by many people. Accordingly, various products are developed to deal with the sticky or greasy feeling of person.
- the scalp is particularly readily to suffer from grease.
- Various formulations have been developed for the sticky or greasy scalp, including those provided in a separate form, e.g., lotion, spray and the like, and those incorporated into conventional products for hair and/or for scalp, e.g., shampoo, leave-on and/or rinse-off conditioner.
- conditioning compositions have been developed mainly for hair, which are generally used to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, smoothness, and softness.
- the commonly accepted method for conditioning the hair has been to shampoo the hair, followed by rinsing the hair, and then applying a conditioner composition, optionally followed by a second rinse.
- Silica is known to be used in cosmetics, e.g., as a conventional filler, or as a substrate to absorb dyes for lake. Derivatives of silica and/or modified silica are also used. However, it is unknown in the art about any roles of (modified) silica solve of the greasy status of keratin materials. By deep study, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that by using specifically modified silica, especially modification in view of both structure and chemical bonds, in a specific form, the sebum migration, and accordingly the greasy feeling, on keratin materials, in particular on scalp, can be effectively inhibited.
- one subject of the present invention is thus a leave-on composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising:
- At least one thickener is at least one thickener.
- composition according to the present invention is particularly useful for conditioning keratin materials, such as, in particular for scalp care.
- the composition of the present invention can be in various form, e.g., lotion, cream, spray and the like to be applied to scalp directly, to skin or to hair along with scalp.
- the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.
- the keratin material according to the present invention is a position where an sticky or greasy feeling is easily felt, e.g., scalp, or skin, and/or a position where the sticky or greasy feeling has an impact on, e.g., hair.
- the “care for” , “caring for” and the like according to the present invention should be understood to encompass any means to take care, maintain or improve the status of keratin materials, including not only the conventional means of caring for keratin materials, e.g., skin or scalp, but also any means known to be useful for conditioning and/or cleansing keratin materials, e.g., hair or scalp.
- the present invention is directed to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- (C) at least one thickener comprising a stabilizing thickener (C-1) selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers.
- the present invention thus provides use of the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica for soothing the feeling of greasy of keratin materials on body surface, especially scalp.
- composition of the present invention comprises spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) .
- a “spheric particle” means a particle in the shape of sphere or at least approximate sphere, and/or a particle having an aspect ratio of about 0.9 to 1.1, e.g., about 0.95 to 1.05.
- a particle is in the shape of sphere according to the conventional knowledge.
- a given silica it is within the ordinary skill of persons in the art to distinguish the shape of sphere from other shapes of plate, rod, powder, strip, irregular shapes or the like, and from amorphous similar.
- a “homogeneously dispersed” state is desired for the silica.
- the formation of dispersion, emulsion, solution or the like, having known definition and/or criteria in the art can represent the achievement of a “homogeneously dispersed” state. Nonetheless, it is to be understood that once a state can be determined by those skilled in the art as being distinguished significantly from a “non-homogeneously dispersed” state, the state can be deemed as substantially satisfying the “homogeneously dispersed” state.
- a “lipophilically modified” silica means one having subjected to lipophilic modification.
- lipophilic modification means any organo-modification capable of bringing hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment to the silica.
- a silica can be treated with a siloxane compound, e.g., hydroxydimethylsiloxane (or other silanes, such as silazane, etc. ) , through which the silanol group on the surface of the silica and the silanol group of the siloxane compound are condensed.
- silica silylate and silica dimethyl silylate, e.g., silica silylate, such as the one available from company TOKUYAMA CORPORATION under the name of TL-10.
- the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica when being incorporated into the composition, can show an oil-absorbing capacity of 500ml/100g or more, 600ml/100g or more, or even 700ml/100g or more.
- the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise at least one medium/solvent for use as component (B) , including water and/or organic medium/solvent.
- the component (B) serves as medium for component (A) , the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica, and if present, other insoluble components to be dispersed as homogeneously as possible, and serves as solvent for the soluble components if present.
- the composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various amounts.
- a relatively high amount of water may be used.
- water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
- the water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40%to 99%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, or from 60%to 80%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the high viscosity composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water in a content of less than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of composition (I) .
- the water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 10%to 40%by weight, more preferably from 15%to 35%by weight, or from 20%to 30%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic medium/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic medium/solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure) .
- organic medium/solvents preferably water-soluble organic medium/solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure) .
- organic medium/solvents examples include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C 1 -C 4 alkyl
- the organic medium/solvents when they are present, generally represent between 0.1%and 40%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and preferably between 1%and 30%by weight, or between 5%and 20%by weight.
- the leave-on product can be distributed uniformly on scalp, or hair along with scalp.
- at least one thickener (C) can be preferably incorporated into the composition according to the present invention, so as to adjust the viscosity of the product obtained, and to facilitate lamellar distribution or the formation of a uniform film of the composition on scalp, or hair along with scalp.
- Non-limiting examples of thickeners (C) include carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums.
- the thickener (C) comprises a stabilizing thickener (C-1)
- the stability of the composition formed, in particular for a leave-on conditioner product can be unexpectedly improved.
- the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is selected from the group consisting of specific carboxylic acid polymers.
- carboxylic acid polymer examples include a crosslinking compound containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts and esters of these acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbons.
- the carbon double bond is derived from a polyol.
- commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomer, which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol (e.g., ULTREZ 10 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) .
- the stabilizing thickener (C-1) can allow a relatively lower pH of the composition according to the present invention.
- the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is critical for stability of the composition formed.
- the stabilizing thickener (C-1) may thus be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.14%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the thickeners (C) may additionally comprise an additional thickener (C-2) , e.g., those increase the viscosity of the composition without significantly altering the effectiveness of one or more of the active ingredients within the composition.
- the additional thickener (C-2) can also increase additionally the compositional stability of the composition.
- Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers for use as additional thickener (C-2) including nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers, include polyacrylamides, isoparaffins, and laureth-7, acrylamide. And substituted multi-block copolymers of acrylamide with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid.
- Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides for use as additional thickener (C-2) include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- alkyl substituted cellulose wherein the hydroxyl group of the cellulosic polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is subsequently C 10 -C 30 straight or branched alkyl group is further modified by an ether linkage.
- These polymers are typically ethers of C 10 -C 30 straight or branched alcohols with hydroxyalkyl celluloses.
- Other useful polysaccharides include linear scleroglucans comprising (1-3) linked glucose units, wherein each of the three units has (1-6) linked glucose.
- Non-limiting examples of gums for use as additional thickener (C-2) include gum arabic, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenan potassium, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, carrageenan sodium, tragacanth, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
- polymeric thickeners for use as additional thickener (C-2) that may be mentioned include vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
- vinyl polymers for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
- the additional thickener (C-2) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one conditioning active agent (D) , which benefits the conditioning effect, especially for a leave-on conditioner product useful for keratin materials.
- D conditioning active agent
- the conditioning active agent (D) of the present invention may refer to ingredients that enhance the appearance and feel of scalp/hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment.
- the conventional scalp/hair conditioning active agents are well adapted to the present invention.
- Such conditioning active agents include non-silicone cationic surfactants, silicones, fatty esters, and other ingredients which are known in the art as having desirable hair conditioning properties.
- cationic surfactants are widely used as a conditioning agent.
- the ability of this kind of cationic surfactants to provide conditioning effect to hair is attributable to the hydrophobic nature of the alkyl chain as well as to the cationic charge of the polar head group.
- Examples of cationic surfactants known are quaternary ammonium compounds containing in the molecule at least one long alkyl chain.
- non-silicone cationic surfactant means a surfactant having no silicone atoms in its structure and positively charged when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention.
- the conditioning agent when it is a fatty ester, it may either be an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and C1-C30 monoalcohols or polyols including esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and C8-C30 fatty alcohols, or an ester of a C1-C7 dibasic acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
- the conditioning active agent (D) of the present invention may also be those providing cooling and/or freshness feeling, such as menthol and derivatives thereof, e.g., ethyl menthane carboxamide, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol.
- menthol and derivatives thereof e.g., ethyl menthane carboxamide, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol.
- the conditioning active agent (D) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 1%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01%to 0.5%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.02%to 0.2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one cationic polymer.
- cationic polymer is intended to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups.
- the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
- the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
- the present composition can comprise cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
- the present composition preferably comprises cationic celluloses.
- the present composition comprises cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, which are described, for example, in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium or hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salt, for example 2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
- hydroxyalkyl celluloses for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium or hydroxypropyl
- the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names L 200 and H 100 by the company National Starch, Polyquaternium-10 (hydroxyethyl cellulose-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride ether) such as the product sold under the name 400KC by the company KCI, Polyquaternium-6 (Polydiallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) such as the product sold under the name Merquat TM 100 polymer from Nalco.
- Polyquaternium polymers are particularly preferred, e.g., Polyquaternium-7, 11, 15, 16, 22, 39, 47, 55, 67, and 76.
- the cationic polymer (E) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01 to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1%by weight, or preferably from 0.1 to 0.6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) may be incorporated into the composition of the present invention in a water-alcohol system. Accordingly, at least one solubilizer (F) is preferably comprised in the aqueous phase.
- the solubilizer is preferably a nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof, more preferably a complex of solubilizers.
- Examples of the useful nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e.
- derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units such as the glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
- Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) , glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
- CFA name glyceryl stearate
- glyceryl stearate glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate
- CFA name glyceryl stearate
- glyceryl oleate glyceryl oleate
- glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
- Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) , and mixtures thereof.
- polyethylene glycol stearate polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate
- CTFA name polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate
- CTFA name polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate
- Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
- CTF name glyceryl stearate SE
- Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside
- oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose examples include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
- CTFA name polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of
- sucrose esters examples include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
- fatty alcohol ethers examples include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) .
- ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
- sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names 1200 N and 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for
- Polysorbate 20 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil may be additionally mentioned as examples of useful solubilizers.
- the solubilizer (F) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01%to 5%, such as from 0.05%to 3%, or from 0.1 to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one pH adjuster (G) .
- pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethylpropane diol, triethanolamine, triethylamine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, acetic acid, potassium hydroxide, lactic acid, and any combination thereof.
- the amount of the pH adjuster (G) in the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted and determined by those skilled depending on the pH desired, as long as the amount thereof will not bring other substantially harmful effect.
- the pH adjuster can be present in an amount of 0.01%to 0.5%, such as from 0.02%to 0.1%, relative to the total weight of the composition including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin materials, such as skin, scalp or hair.
- the compositions of the present invention can comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for conditioning keratin materials, such as, additional surfactant including nonionic surfactant, anionic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant, active ingredients, humectants, additional fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, pearlescent or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, fragrances and preserving agents.
- additional surfactant including nonionic surfactant, anionic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant
- active ingredients such as, humectants, additional fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoe
- additives may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
- the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are particularly determined according to the specific products/applications thereof, e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skincare conditioner and the like.
- additives may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 50%relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- composition according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.
- the composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, especially the scalp, or hair along with scalp.
- This use may manifest itself as a process for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising the step applying to said keratin materials the composition of the invention.
- composition according to the present invention is preferably useful to formulate hair conditioner products, scalp care products, or even skincare products. Also, according to the detailed discussions above, it is to be understood that composition, and in turn the conditioner product and/or shampoo product according to the present invention may be free of silicone oil.
- the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention can be used in the form of leave-on products, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, lotions, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
- the keratin fibers conditioning composition as described above may be used to condition the keratin fibers such as hair along with scalp through conventional methods, depending on the application form of the composition.
- composition of the present invention when used as a leave-on conditioner after shampooing, may be applied through a method comprising following steps:
- compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
- SILICA SILYLATE TL-10, available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION, spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica;
- composition A and A', and comparative compositions B-F, as Table 1, were prepared:
- compositions A-F were prepared according to known manufacturing method of field.
- Step 1 cleaning hair swatches with standard shampoo DOP and washed with test products according to known procedure RC-MCI-OIP-003B
- Step 2 applying 100 ⁇ L colored artificial sebum (red) on selected 3cm area on top region of hair swatch.
- Step 3 hanging the hair swatch on iron stand in 30°C, 50%humidity condition.
- Step 4 taking images of hair swatch at 1h, 2h, 4h, 6h, and 24h.
- Step 5 using image analysis to calculate the total sebum migration area at each time point.
- the average scores of the 6 volunteers were counted instant status, 24h, and 48h, and were calculated for the averages.
- the average scores for the total 3 days were provided in Table 3 below.
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Abstract
Provided herein is a composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising (A) a spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica; (B) a medium/solvent, selected from water and alcohol; and (C) at least one thickener comprising a stabilizing thickener (C-1) selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers.
Description
The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp or hair along with scalp. The invention also relates to a process for conditioning keratin materials, in particular the skin, scalp or hair along with scalp, using the composition of the present invention.
Keratin materials are present widely on surface of human bodies, e.g., skin, scalp and hair. Many people have for a long time sought to fresh the body surface, so as to feel comfortable in daily life and work. Amongst others, the feeling of sticky/greasy is particularly concerned by many people. Accordingly, various products are developed to deal with the sticky or greasy feeling of person.
In the keratin materials on body surface, the scalp is particularly readily to suffer from grease. Various formulations have been developed for the sticky or greasy scalp, including those provided in a separate form, e.g., lotion, spray and the like, and those incorporated into conventional products for hair and/or for scalp, e.g., shampoo, leave-on and/or rinse-off conditioner.
Various conditioning compositions have been developed mainly for hair, which are generally used to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, smoothness, and softness. When used with shampooing, the commonly accepted method for conditioning the hair has been to shampoo the hair, followed by rinsing the hair, and then applying a conditioner composition, optionally followed by a second rinse.
There is thus still needed in the art to develop new compositions for caring mainly for scalp, especially the non-greasy feeling.
Summary of the invention
Silica is known to be used in cosmetics, e.g., as a conventional filler, or as a substrate to absorb dyes for lake. Derivatives of silica and/or modified silica are also used. However, it is unknown in the art about any roles of (modified) silica solve of the greasy status of keratin materials. By deep study, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that by using specifically modified silica, especially modification in view of both structure and chemical bonds, in a specific form, the sebum migration, and accordingly the greasy feeling, on keratin materials, in particular on scalp, can be effectively inhibited.
Thus, one subject of the present invention is thus a leave-on composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising:
spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica homogeneously dispersed in the medium/solvent;
at least one medium/solvent, and
at least one thickener.
The composition according to the present invention is particularly useful for conditioning keratin materials, such as, in particular for scalp care. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can be in various form, e.g., lotion, cream, spray and the like to be applied to scalp directly, to skin or to hair along with scalp.
Embodiments of the invention
Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" , with conventionally known meaning in the art, e.g., within 10%of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9%-11%and "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%) .
Throughout the description, including the claims, the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes. Preferably, the keratin material according to the present invention is a position where an sticky or greasy feeling is easily felt, e.g., scalp, or skin, and/or a position where the sticky or greasy feeling has an impact on, e.g., hair.
Throughout the description, including the claims, the “care for” , “caring for” and the like according to the present invention should be understood to encompass any means to take care, maintain or improve the status of keratin materials, including not only the conventional means of caring for keratin materials, e.g., skin or scalp, but also any means known to be useful for conditioning and/or cleansing keratin materials, e.g., hair or scalp.
In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
The present invention is directed to a composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(A) spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica homogeneously dispersed in the medium/solvent;
(B) at least one medium/solvent selected from water and alcohols; and
(C) at least one thickener comprising a stabilizing thickener (C-1) selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers.
The present invention thus provides use of the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica for soothing the feeling of greasy of keratin materials on body surface, especially scalp.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
Spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A)
The composition of the present invention comprises spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) .
According to the present invention, a “spheric particle” means a particle in the shape of sphere or at least approximate sphere, and/or a particle having an aspect ratio of about 0.9 to 1.1, e.g., about 0.95 to 1.05. For example, those skilled in the art can determine whether a particle is in the shape of sphere according to the conventional knowledge. In particular, regarding a given silica, it is within the ordinary skill of persons in the art to distinguish the shape of sphere from other shapes of plate, rod, powder, strip, irregular shapes or the like, and from amorphous similar.
According to the present invention, a “homogeneously dispersed” state is desired for the silica. For example, the formation of dispersion, emulsion, solution or the like, having known definition and/or criteria in the art, can represent the achievement of a “homogeneously dispersed” state. Nonetheless, it is to be understood that once a state can be determined by those skilled in the art as being distinguished significantly from a “non-homogeneously dispersed” state, the state can be deemed as substantially satisfying the “homogeneously dispersed” state.
According to the present invention, a “lipophilically modified” silica means one having subjected to lipophilic modification. According to the present invention, lipophilic modification means any organo-modification capable of bringing hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment to the silica. For example, a silica can be treated with a siloxane compound, e.g., hydroxydimethylsiloxane (or other silanes, such as silazane, etc. ) , through which the silanol group on the surface of the silica and the silanol group of the siloxane compound are condensed. Amongst others, useful examples of “lipophilically modified” silica can be made to silica silylate and silica dimethyl silylate, e.g., silica silylate, such as the one available from company TOKUYAMA CORPORATION under the name of
TL-10.
According to the present invention, when being incorporated into the composition, the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica can show an oil-absorbing capacity of 500ml/100g or more, 600ml/100g or more, or even 700ml/100g or more.
The spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Medium/solvent (B)
The composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise at least one medium/solvent for use as component (B) , including water and/or organic medium/solvent. For the purpose of the present invention, the component (B) serves as medium for component (A) , the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica, and if present, other insoluble components to be dispersed as homogeneously as possible, and serves as solvent for the soluble components if present.
Water
The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various amounts. For low viscosity applications of the composition, e.g., in form of leave-on lotion, a relatively high amount of water may be used. For example, water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40%to 99%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, or from 60%to 80%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For high viscosity applications of the composition, e.g., in form of leave-on cream, a relatively lower amount of water may be used. The high viscosity composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water in a content of less than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of composition (I) . The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 10%to 40%by weight, more preferably from 15%to 35%by weight, or from 20%to 30%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic medium/solvent
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic medium/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic medium/solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure) .
Examples of the organic medium/solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C
1-C
4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
The organic medium/solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 0.1%and 40%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and preferably between 1%and 30%by weight, or between 5%and 20%by weight.
Thickener (C)
As a leave-on form, it is preferable that the leave-on product can be distributed uniformly on scalp, or hair along with scalp. Accordingly, at least one thickener (C) can be preferably incorporated into the composition according to the present invention, so as to adjust the viscosity of the product obtained, and to facilitate lamellar distribution or the formation of a uniform film of the composition on scalp, or hair along with scalp.
Non-limiting examples of thickeners (C) include carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums.
Stabilizing thickener (C-1)
The inventors have discovered surprisingly that when the thickener (C) comprises a stabilizing thickener (C-1) , the stability of the composition formed, in particular for a leave-on conditioner product, can be unexpectedly improved. Preferably, the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is selected from the group consisting of specific carboxylic acid polymers.
Examples of the carboxylic acid polymer include a crosslinking compound containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts and esters of these acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbons. The carbon double bond is derived from a polyol. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomer, which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol (e.g.,
ULTREZ 10 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) .
As a carboxylic acid polymer, use of the stabilizing thickener (C-1) can allow a relatively lower pH of the composition according to the present invention.
Without limited to any known theory, it is discovered that the amount of the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is critical for stability of the composition formed. The stabilizing thickener (C-1) may thus be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.14%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional thickener (C-2)
Besides the stabilizing thickener (C-1) , the thickeners (C) may additionally comprise an additional thickener (C-2) , e.g., those increase the viscosity of the composition without significantly altering the effectiveness of one or more of the active ingredients within the composition. The additional thickener (C-2) can also increase additionally the compositional stability of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers for use as additional thickener (C-2) , including nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers, include polyacrylamides, isoparaffins, and laureth-7, acrylamide. And substituted multi-block copolymers of acrylamide with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid.
Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides for use as additional thickener (C-2) include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substituted cellulose wherein the hydroxyl group of the cellulosic polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is subsequently C
10-C
30 straight or branched alkyl group is further modified by an ether linkage. These polymers are typically ethers of C
10-C
30 straight or branched alcohols with hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Other useful polysaccharides include linear scleroglucans comprising (1-3) linked glucose units, wherein each of the three units has (1-6) linked glucose.
Non-limiting examples of gums for use as additional thickener (C-2) include gum arabic, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenan potassium, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, carrageenan sodium, tragacanth, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
Other examples of polymeric thickeners for use as additional thickener (C-2) that may be mentioned include vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
The additional thickener (C-2) , if present, may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Conditioning active agent (D)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one conditioning active agent (D) , which benefits the conditioning effect, especially for a leave-on conditioner product useful for keratin materials.
The conditioning active agent (D) of the present invention may refer to ingredients that enhance the appearance and feel of scalp/hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment. The conventional scalp/hair conditioning active agents are well adapted to the present invention. Such conditioning active agents include non-silicone cationic surfactants, silicones, fatty esters, and other ingredients which are known in the art as having desirable hair conditioning properties.
Among others, cationic surfactants are widely used as a conditioning agent. The ability of this kind of cationic surfactants to provide conditioning effect to hair is attributable to the hydrophobic nature of the alkyl chain as well as to the cationic charge of the polar head group. Examples of cationic surfactants known are quaternary ammonium compounds containing in the molecule at least one long alkyl chain. The term “non-silicone cationic surfactant” means a surfactant having no silicone atoms in its structure and positively charged when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention.
When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, it may either be an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and C1-C30 monoalcohols or polyols including esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and C8-C30 fatty alcohols, or an ester of a C1-C7 dibasic acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
The conditioning active agent (D) of the present invention may also be those providing cooling and/or freshness feeling, such as menthol and derivatives thereof, e.g., ethyl menthane carboxamide, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol.
The conditioning active agent (D) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 1%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01%to 0.5%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.02%to 0.2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polymer (E)
The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one cationic polymer.
The term "cationic polymer" is intended to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto. Preferably, the present composition can comprise cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. For the purpose of the invention, the present composition preferably comprises cationic celluloses.
Among the cationic celluloses, the present composition comprises cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, which are described, for example, in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium or hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salt, for example 2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names
L 200 and
H 100 by the company National Starch, Polyquaternium-10 (hydroxyethyl cellulose-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride ether) such as the product sold under the name
400KC by the company KCI, Polyquaternium-6 (Polydiallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) such as the product sold under the name Merquat
TM 100 polymer from Nalco. Amongst others, Polyquaternium polymers are particularly preferred, e.g., Polyquaternium-7, 11, 15, 16, 22, 39, 47, 55, 67, and 76.
The cationic polymer (E) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01 to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1%by weight, or preferably from 0.1 to 0.6%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Solubilizer (F)
The spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) may be incorporated into the composition of the present invention in a water-alcohol system. Accordingly, at least one solubilizer (F) is preferably comprised in the aqueous phase. For the purpose of well dispersion, the solubilizer is preferably a nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof, more preferably a complex of solubilizers.
Examples of the useful nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C
8-C
24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C
8-C
24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) , glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) , and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name
165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name
by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name
SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name
E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name
SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name
PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
Sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name
10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name
2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name
NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name
CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name
GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names
1200 N and
1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name
68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name
CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name
KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name
202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name
82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.
Polysorbate 20, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil may be additionally mentioned as examples of useful solubilizers.
The solubilizer (F) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01%to 5%, such as from 0.05%to 3%, or from 0.1 to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
pH adjuster (G)
The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one pH adjuster (G) .
Examples of pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethylpropane diol, triethanolamine, triethylamine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, acetic acid, potassium hydroxide, lactic acid, and any combination thereof.
The amount of the pH adjuster (G) in the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted and determined by those skilled depending on the pH desired, as long as the amount thereof will not bring other substantially harmful effect. For example, especially when a stabilizing thickener (C-1) is used in the composition for a leave-on conditioner product, the pH adjuster can be present in an amount of 0.01%to 0.5%, such as from 0.02%to 0.1%, relative to the total weight of the composition including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Additional Additives
According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin materials, such as skin, scalp or hair. In accordance with these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for conditioning keratin materials, such as, additional surfactant including nonionic surfactant, anionic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant, active ingredients, humectants, additional fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, pearlescent or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, fragrances and preserving agents.
A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9
th ed. 2002) .
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These additives may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. In particular, the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are particularly determined according to the specific products/applications thereof, e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skincare conditioner and the like.
These additives may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 50%relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Method and use
The composition according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.
According to an embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, especially the scalp, or hair along with scalp. This use may manifest itself as a process for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising the step applying to said keratin materials the composition of the invention.
The composition according to the present invention is preferably useful to formulate hair conditioner products, scalp care products, or even skincare products. Also, according to the detailed discussions above, it is to be understood that composition, and in turn the conditioner product and/or shampoo product according to the present invention may be free of silicone oil.
The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention can be used in the form of leave-on products, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, lotions, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
The keratin fibers conditioning composition as described above may be used to condition the keratin fibers such as hair along with scalp through conventional methods, depending on the application form of the composition.
For example, when used as a leave-on conditioner after shampooing, the composition of the present invention may be applied through a method comprising following steps:
(i) shampooing hair; and
(ii) applying to the hair an effective amount of the composition for conditioning the hair, without rinsing the hair further.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope as a result.
Examples
The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
Material:
SILICA SILYLATE:
TL-10, available from TOKUYAMA CORPORATION, spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica;
Other materials without specification here were each commercially available.
EXAMPLE 1
Composition A and A', and comparative compositions B-F, as Table 1, were prepared:
Table 1
Note: in the Table 1 above and others, “Compo. ” means “composition” , while “C.C. ” means “comparative composition” .
The above listed compositions A-F were prepared according to known manufacturing method of field.
EXAMPLE 2
The effect of the composition on the inhibition of grease was determined with sebum migration test, comprising the steps of:
Step 1: cleaning hair swatches with standard shampoo DOP and washed with test products according to known procedure RC-MCI-OIP-003B
Step 2: applying 100μL colored artificial sebum (red) on selected 3cm area on top region of hair swatch.
Step 3: hanging the hair swatch on iron stand in 30℃, 50%humidity condition.
Step 4: taking images of hair swatch at 1h, 2h, 4h, 6h, and 24h.
Step 5: using image analysis to calculate the total sebum migration area at each time point.
The sebum migration results were provided as follows:
Table 2
For the sebum migration test, less sebum migration area means more inhibition to the grease. Thus, it was clear to see that comparative A' using the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica homogeneously when being dispersed in the medium/solvent, can bring high grease inhibition, reflected by the low sebum migration area. It was observed that when composition A was used, an even lower sebum migration area was resulted.
EXAMPLE 3
6 volunteers between age of 25 and 45 applied the compositions A and B on the hair and scalp every day for 3 days. Scores of sticky or greasy feeling before the application of the compositions A and B were given as baselines, the scores of sticky or greasy feeling after application of the compositions A and B were given every day, the mean difference was shown in Table 3.
Volunteers gave scores to the greasy feeling, where:
0 meant unchanged;
1 meant fairly improved;
2 meant significantly improved; and
3 meant substantially free of greasy feeling.
The average scores of the 6 volunteers were counted instant status, 24h, and 48h, and were calculated for the averages. The average scores for the total 3 days were provided in Table 3 below.
Table 3
Note: for convenience, the each average score in Table 3 was rounded to an integer.
Referring to Table 3, less the score, less the sticky or greasy feeling was. It was observed that the composition A showed a very good and long term anti-sticky or greasy feeling.
EXAMPLE 4
The other performances of the compositions were also determined using known methods in the art. The results were provided in Table 4 below:
Table 4
Claims (16)
- A composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising:(A) spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica homogeneously dispersed in a medium/solvent,(B) at least one medium/solvent selected from water and alcohols, and(C) at least one thickener comprising a stabilizing thickener (C-1) selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers.
- The composition according to claim 1, wherein the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) comprises silica silylate and silica dimethyl silylate.
- The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spheric particles of lipophilically modified silica (A) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably ranging from0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of C2-C10 monoalcohol, C2-C10 diols, and C3-C6 polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, e.g., ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the medium/solvent (B) comprises both water and alcohol, in which water is present in the composition in an amount from 40%to 99%by weight, more preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, or from 60%to 80%by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and/or alcohol is present in the composition in an amount from 0.1%to 40%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 30%by weight, or from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts and esters of the acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid, e.g., carbomer.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the stabilizing thickener (C-1) is present in the composition in an amount from 0.14%to 5%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2%to 3%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional thickener (C-2) , selected from the group consisting of vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one conditioning active agent (D) , which is selected from the group consisting of non-silicone cationic surfactants, fatty esters, and menthol and derivatives thereof.
- The composition according to claim 9, wherein the conditioning active agent (D) is present in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 1%by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01%to 0.5%by weight, or preferably ranging from 0.02%to 0.2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cationic polymer (E) , selected from the group consisting of cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, e.g., Polyquaternium polymers.
- The composition according to claim 11, wherein the cationic polymer (E) is present in the composition in an amount from 0.01 to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1%by weight, or preferably from 0.1 to 0.6%by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one solubilizer (F) , selected from the group consisting of glyceryl esters of C18-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitan esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
- The composition according to claim 13, wherein the solubilizer (F) is present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 5%, such as from 0.05%to 3%, or from 0.1 to 1%, relative to the weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being free of silicone-based oil.
- A leave-on keratin material care product comprising the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, useful for caring for skin, scalp and/or hair.
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CN202080106875.3A CN116367820A (en) | 2020-10-30 | 2020-10-30 | Composition for conditioning keratin materials |
PCT/CN2020/125313 WO2022088054A1 (en) | 2020-10-30 | 2020-10-30 | Composition for conditioning keratin materials |
FR2012528A FR3115686B1 (en) | 2020-10-30 | 2020-12-02 | Composition for conditioning keratinous materials |
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EP2654681B1 (en) * | 2010-12-21 | 2017-10-18 | L'Oréal | Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and silicone oils |
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JP4656625B2 (en) * | 2001-09-06 | 2011-03-23 | 信越化学工業株式会社 | Cosmetics containing silica-containing composite oxide spherical fine particles |
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FR3004340B1 (en) * | 2013-04-11 | 2015-06-26 | Oreal | AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES, DEODORANT AGENT AND / OR ANTI-TRANSPIRANT ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND A PARTICULAR ALCOHOL |
FR3061428A1 (en) * | 2016-12-29 | 2018-07-06 | L'oreal | SUPERHYDROPHOBIC COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AEROSOL |
JP6916650B2 (en) * | 2017-04-21 | 2021-08-11 | 株式会社トクヤマ | Silica airgel powder and its manufacturing method |
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2020
- 2020-10-30 WO PCT/CN2020/125313 patent/WO2022088054A1/en active Application Filing
- 2020-10-30 CN CN202080106875.3A patent/CN116367820A/en active Pending
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WO2009080670A2 (en) * | 2007-12-20 | 2009-07-02 | L'oreal | Composition comprising an alkanolamine, an amino acid and a polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester |
US8257447B2 (en) * | 2007-12-20 | 2012-09-04 | L'oreal S.A. | Composition comprising an alkanolamine, an amino acid and a cationic polymer |
WO2010133804A2 (en) * | 2009-05-19 | 2010-11-25 | L'oreal | Dyeing composition comprising a secondary para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and an amino acid |
FR2968984B1 (en) * | 2010-12-21 | 2012-12-14 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES |
EP2654681B1 (en) * | 2010-12-21 | 2017-10-18 | L'Oréal | Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and silicone oils |
WO2020127991A1 (en) * | 2018-12-21 | 2020-06-25 | L'oreal | Matt-effect cosmetic composition |
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