EP2664701B1 - Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot avec au moins un fil flottant et textile obtenu - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot avec au moins un fil flottant et textile obtenu Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2664701B1
EP2664701B1 EP12167878.3A EP12167878A EP2664701B1 EP 2664701 B1 EP2664701 B1 EP 2664701B1 EP 12167878 A EP12167878 A EP 12167878A EP 2664701 B1 EP2664701 B1 EP 2664701B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
thread
floating
floating thread
stitches
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP12167878.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2664701A1 (fr
Inventor
Francesco Collura
Achim Ulmer
Marcel Dress
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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Priority to EP12167878.3A priority Critical patent/EP2664701B1/fr
Priority to CN201310176946.9A priority patent/CN103422243B/zh
Publication of EP2664701A1 publication Critical patent/EP2664701A1/fr
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Publication of EP2664701B1 publication Critical patent/EP2664701B1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/123—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics

Definitions

  • the US 5,765,400 A and the DE 196 05 002 A1 describe knitted fabrics with weft threads running horizontally. In one embodiment, these are floated over every second stitch on the visible side of the knitted fabric.
  • the EP 681 045 A1 the insertion of weft threads into a knitted fabric by first transferring a few stitches and hanging them back after inserting the weft thread.
  • the Weft thread is inserted over the entire width of the knitted fabric and floats only individual stitches on the visible side of the knitted fabric.
  • the present invention has for its object to provide a method with which it is possible to produce a single-surface knitted fabric with flotation threads as design elements, in which the flotation threads differ significantly in thickness from the thickness of the thread of the basic knitted fabric and also over several stitches can be floated.
  • the object is achieved by a method for producing a knitted fabric with the features of claim 1.
  • the float thread is thus held in it solely by being clamped between loops of the basic knitted fabric. There is no formation of tuck handles or stitches with the floating thread. For this reason, the strength of the flot thread can differ significantly from the thread with which the basic knitted fabric is formed.
  • the method according to the invention therefore opens up new design options in particular.
  • the fleet thread guide is preferably designed as an intarsia thread guide.
  • normal thread guides can also be used, with the aid of thread guide displacements in their effective areas can be spent.
  • the use of independently driven thread guides is possible.
  • steps b) to e) are repeated at least once after step f).
  • the float thread is thus brought to a new starting position on the first knitted side, from which it should be visible on the second knitted side, and then another flotable thread region is created on the second knitted side. This creates different areas of the floating thread, in which the floating thread is visible either on the first knitted side or on the second knitted side.
  • the float thread in step b) can be moved by the thread guide in the same direction or in the opposite direction as in the previous step d). If it is moved back by the thread guide, several superimposed areas of floating thread are created on the knitted sides. By moving in the same direction, several float areas are created side by side in the horizontal direction.
  • the angle at which the floating thread runs on the first knitted side can be changed. Flotate threads deviating from the horizontal direction are therefore also possible.
  • multiple threads can be inserted at different points in the basic knitted fabric.
  • these floating threads can also be inserted in such a way that they cross at least partially. The crossing can take place at the point of passage of the flotation threads from one knitted side to the other knitted side and / or on one or both sides of the knitted fabric.
  • the basic knitted fabric can be formed from two partial knitted fabrics which are knitted adjacent to one another, and the two parts can be formed with at least one floating thread by transferring stitches in the edge region of both knitted parts and laying the floating thread over the strapped stitches on a plurality of knitted fabrics Positions of the knitted parts are connected.
  • the two parts are sewn together, so to speak, by the floating thread, which runs alternately on the front and on the back of the knitted parts in their edge region.
  • several floating threads can also be used for this process.
  • the at least one floating thread can have a different thickness and / or a different material than the thread of the basic knitted fabric.
  • fine leather strips can also be used as a floating thread.
  • wire-like materials for the floating thread is also possible.
  • the floating thread can also be a bundle of threads, whereby further optical effects can be achieved.
  • several differently colored threads can be inserted into the knitted fabric as a colorful bundle of floating threads using the method.
  • the invention also relates to a knitted fabric with the features of claim 9.
  • the knitted fabric has a single-surface basic knitted fabric.
  • the at least one float thread can have a different thickness, a different material and / or a different color than the thread or threads of the basic knitted fabric.
  • Fig. 1a shows a knitted fabric 10, which consists of a single-surface basic knitted fabric 11, which in the example shown is a plain-right knitted fabric.
  • a floating thread 12 is inserted, which in a certain section in the x-direction of the basic knitted fabric 11 and over the entire height of the basic knitted fabric 11 on the visible side of the basic knitted fabric 11 in several, arranged one above the other and running obliquely from bottom left to top right Sections 13 can be seen.
  • the width and the slope of the sections 13 are constant.
  • Fig. 1b illustrates the manufacture of the knitted fabric 10 Fig. 1a according to the principle.
  • the row R1 stitches are formed for the basic knitted fabric 11 on the needles D - M of the front needle bed in accordance with the desired number of stitch rows until the beginning of the floating thread insert.
  • the floating thread 12 is fed from the right knitted edge by means of an intarsia thread guide.
  • the float thread 12 is then moved to its starting position S in row R2 by moving the thread guide according to the desired width of the float thread region between the needles G and H of the front needle bed.
  • the stitches of the needles H, I, J of the basic knitted fabric 11 are then transferred to the needles h, i, j of the opposite needle bed in row R3 in accordance with the desired width of the float area.
  • row R4 the floating thread 12 is countered in a length corresponding to the number of stitches transferred in row R3 of the feed direction from row R2 over the transferred stitches, before in row R5 the transferred stitches in row R3 are hung back on their original needles H, I, J of the front needle bed.
  • This is followed by a renewed formation of stitch rows for the basic knitted fabric 11, the number of stitch rows determining the height and the angle of the sections 13 of the floating thread 12.
  • the steps in the rows R2-R5 are then repeated in accordance with the desired number of sections 13 in the wale direction y of the knitted fabric 10.
  • Fig. 2a shows a knitted fabric 20 with a basic knitted fabric 21, which is also a plain-right knitted fabric.
  • a float thread 22 is introduced into the basic knitted fabric 21.
  • the sections 23.1-23n of the flotation thread 22 visible on the front of the basic knitted fabric 21 are provided with the same pitch, but have an increasing length in the y direction of the knitted fabric 20, the length increase on the left side of the sections 23.1-23. 23.n takes place.
  • the Figures 2b-2d illustrate the process for producing the knitted fabric 20.
  • row R1 the desired number of rows of stitches for the basic knitted fabric 21 are formed with the needles D-M of the front needle bed until the start of the floating thread insert is reached.
  • the flotation thread 22 is fed from the right knitted edge until it has reached its starting point S between the needles I and J of the front needle bed (row R2).
  • the stitches of the needles J, K, L of the front needle bed are then reassigned in row R3 to the opposite needles j, k, l of the rear needle bed, before in row R4 the float thread is placed from left to right over the stitched stitches and in row R5 the stitches transferred in row R3 are hung back on their original needles J, K, L.
  • row R6 several rows of stitches are again formed for the basic knitted fabric 21.
  • the float thread 22 is moved by its thread guide in its position between the needles L and M, which it has reached in row R4, up to a reversal point U1 between the needles H and I of the front needle bed.
  • the stitches I - L of the basic knitted fabric are then reassigned to the needles of the rear needle bed in row R8, and then in row R9 the float thread 12 is placed over the slung stitches counter to the feed direction from row R7.
  • row R10 the stitches transferred in row R8 are hung back onto the original needles I - L of the front needle bed.
  • row R11 there is a renewed formation of stitch rows for the basic knitted fabric 21 on the needles D - M of the front needle bed in the same number as in row R6.
  • row R12 the floating yarn 22 is moved from its position between the needles L and M of the front needle bed to a second reversing position U2 between the needles G and H of the front needle bed.
  • row R13 a total of five stitches are transferred from needles H - L of the front needle bed to the associated needles h - L of the rear needle bed.
  • the floating thread is placed in row R14 over the looped stitches before they are hung back in row R15. These steps are repeated until the desired number of sections 23.n is reached.
  • Fig. 3a shows a knitted fabric 30 with a basic knitted fabric 31, in which a floating thread 32 is inserted.
  • the flotation thread insert has been carried out in such a way that a plurality of obliquely running sections 33.1-33.n can be seen on the visible side of the knitted fabric 30.
  • Sections 33.1 - 33.n continuously increase in length in the y direction of the knitted fabric. In contrast to that in Fig. 2a knitted fabric 20 shown here, however, the length increases on both sides.
  • the 3b-3d illustrate the production of the knitted fabric 30 according to the principle.
  • row R1 rows of stitches are formed for the basic knitted fabric 31 with the needles D - M of the front needle bed.
  • the float thread 32 is fed from the right until it has reached its starting point S between the needles G and H of the front needle bed in row R2.
  • the stitches of the needles H, I, J of the basic knitted fabric are then reassigned to the opposite needles h, i, j of the rear needle bed in row R3.
  • the floating thread 32 is placed over the looped stitches before they are hung back in row R5.
  • row R6 the needles D-M are again used to form rows of stitches for the basic knitted fabric 31 on the front needle bed.
  • row R7 the floating thread is moved with the help of its thread guide to the reversal point U1 of the first section 33.1. Starting from the reversal point U1, i.e. starting from the needle G, five stitches are then reassigned to the rear needle bed and then the row thread is laid over these stitches in row R9, before the slung stitches in row R10 back to their original needles G - K des front needle bed to be hung back.
  • row R11 there are again the formation of courses in the same number as in row R6 for the basic knitted fabric 31.
  • row R12 the float is moved from the position between the needles L, M to its reversing position U2 between the needles E, F before the steps of the rows R3-R12 are repeated, the float area being widened on the left and right by one or more needles.
  • Fig. 4a shows a knitted fabric 40 with a basic knitted fabric 41 and a floating thread 42, the width of the basic knitted fabric 41 in the x direction, which is covered by the floating thread 42, in each case remaining constant. In In the y direction, however, the visible sections 43.1-43.n of the floating thread 42 vary in their pitch and thus also in their length.
  • Fig. 4b and Fig. 4c illustrate the basic course of the method for producing a knitted fabric according to Fig. 4a .
  • rows R1 stitches for the basic knitted fabric 41 are formed with the needles D-M of the front needle bed until the height position of the insert of the floating yarn guide 42 is reached, which is moved from the right knitted edge to the starting point S (row R2).
  • the stitches of the basic knitted fabric of the needles H-L of the front needle bed corresponding to the desired width of the floating thread 43.1 are then transferred onto the needles h-1 of the rear needle bed in row R3.
  • row R4 the floating thread is guided in a length corresponding to the number of stitches transferred in row R3 against the feed direction from row R2 before the stitches of needles h-l are hung back on needles H-L in row R5.
  • row R6 rows of stitches for the basic knitted fabric 41 are again formed on the needles D - M of the front needle bed.
  • row R7 the floating thread is moved by its thread guide from its position between the needles L and M of the front needle bed to the left to the reversing position U1 of the floating thread between the needles G and H.
  • FIG. 5a A knitted fabric 50 is shown, which has a basic knitted fabric 51, in which a floating thread 52 is also inserted.
  • the float thread 52 is laid in the different sections 53.1 - 53.n in the form of a figure eight around the stitches of the basic knitted fabric 51, like that Fig. 5b and Fig. 5c clarify:
  • row R1 rows of needles for the basic knitted fabric 51 are formed with the needles D-N and the float thread 52 is fed from the right.
  • row R2 the stitches of the basic knitted fabric are transferred from the needles G, H, I according to the desired width of the left region of section 53.1 to the needles g, h, i of the opposite needle bed.
  • row R3 the floating thread is moved in the knitted fabric by moving the thread guide according to the desired width of the floating thread region between the needles F and G of the front needle bed.
  • rows R4 the stitches are hung from needles g, h, i back to needles G, H, I and at the same time the stitches of needles J, K, L are reassigned to the rear needle bed.
  • row R5 the float is moved in a length corresponding to the number of stitches transferred in row R4 against the feed direction from row R3.
  • rows R6 the stitches transferred in row R4 are hung back on their original needles J, K, L of the front needle bed. These steps are repeated until the desired number of sections 53.n is reached.
  • Fig. 6 shows a knitted fabric 70 which consists of two parts 70.1, 70.2 knitted side by side.
  • the floating thread 72 is used here to connect the two knitted parts 70.1, 70.2 to one another.
  • the float thread sections here run horizontally and parallel to one another on the visible side of the knitted fabric 70.
  • FIG. 7 A further example of a knitted fabric 80 is shown, which consists of two basic knitted parts 80.1, 80.2, which are knitted side by side on a flat knitting machine and connected to one another by means of a floating thread 82. This is essentially what is related to Fig. 5 The method shown is applied, with the stitches being transferred around the edge of the knitted parts 80.1, 80.2.

Claims (10)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 70, 80), comprenant au moins un fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté sur une machine à tricoter rectiligne, comprenant au moins deux fontures, caractérisé par les stades :
    a) formation d'un tricot (11, 21, 31, 41, 51, 70.1, 70.2, 80.1, 80.2) de base à une surface jusqu'à la rangée de mailles, dans laquelle le fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté doit être inséré ;
    b) mise du fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté sur la première face du tricot, à l'aide d'un guide-fil, dans une position (S) de début, à partir de laquelle le fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté doit être visible sur la deuxième face du tricot ;
    c) report de plusieurs mailles disposées les unes à côté des autres en un nombre, qui correspond à la largeur souhaitée de la partie du fil flotté visible sur la deuxième face du tricot, en commençant à la position (S) de début du fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté ;
    d) mise du fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté sur les mailles reportées à l'aide du guide-fil ;
    e) retour des mailles reportées à leurs aiguilles d'origine ;
    f) formation de rangées de mailles du tricot (11, 21, 31, 41, 51, 70.1, 70.2, 80.1, 80.2) de base en un nombre quelconque.
  2. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'après le stade f), on répète au moins une fois les stades b) à f).
  3. Procédé suivant la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté est déplacé au stade b) par le guide-fil dans le même sens ou dans le sens contraire au stade d) précédent.
  4. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que l'on insère plusieurs fils (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flottés en des points différents du tricot (11, 21, 31, 41, 70.1, 70.2, 80.1, 80.2) de base.
  5. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que le ou les fils (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flottés se croisent, au moins en partie.
  6. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que l'on forme le tricot (70, 80) en deux parties (70.1, 70.2 ; 80.1, 80.2), qui sont tricotées au voisinage l'une de l'autre et on relie entre elles les parties (70.1, 70.2 ; 80.1, 80.2) par au moins un fil (72, 82) flotté en reportant des mailles dans la région de bord des deux parties (70.1, 70.2 ; 80.1, 80.2) du tricot et en mettant le fil (72, 82) flotté par les mailles reportées en plusieurs positions se trouvant l'une sur l'autre des parties (70.1, 70.2 ; 80.1, 80.2) du tricot.
  7. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que le au moins un fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté a une épaisseur autre et/ou est en une matière autre que le fil du tricot (11, 21, 31, 41, 51, 70.1, 70. 2, 80.1, 80.2) de base.
  8. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce que le au moins un fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52, 72, 82) flotté est un faisceau de fil.
  9. Tricot (10, 20, 30, 40), comprenant au moins un fil (12, 22, 32, 42) flotté et un tricot de base à une surface, dans lequel le fil (12, 22, 32, 42, 52) flotté s'étend sur la première face du tricot jusqu'en une position (S) de début à partir de laquelle le fil (12, 22, 32, 42) flotté est visible sur la deuxième face du tricot, le fil (12, 22, 32, 42) flotté étant visible sur la première et la deuxième face du tricot et étant retenu à la position (S) de début par collage entre des mailles du tricot (11, 21, 31, 41) de base,
    caractérisé en ce que le fil (12, 22, 32, 42) flotté s'étend sur la première face du tricot, en formant un angle avec les rangées de mailles sur le tricot (10, 20, 30, 40), qui dépend de la longueur d'un tronçon de fil flotté inséré sur la deuxième face du tricot dans la direction des rangées de mailles et du nombre des rangées de mailles formées entre des positions (S) de début voisines.
  10. Tricot (10, 20, 30, 40) suivant la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que le au moins un fil (12, 22, 32, 42) flotté a une épaisseur, une couleur et/ou une matière autre que le fil du tricot de base.
EP12167878.3A 2012-05-14 2012-05-14 Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot avec au moins un fil flottant et textile obtenu Active EP2664701B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP12167878.3A EP2664701B1 (fr) 2012-05-14 2012-05-14 Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot avec au moins un fil flottant et textile obtenu
CN201310176946.9A CN103422243B (zh) 2012-05-14 2013-05-14 用于利用至少一个浮线制造针织物的方法

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EP12167878.3A EP2664701B1 (fr) 2012-05-14 2012-05-14 Procédé de fabrication d'un tricot avec au moins un fil flottant et textile obtenu

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EP2664701A1 EP2664701A1 (fr) 2013-11-20
EP2664701B1 true EP2664701B1 (fr) 2020-03-11

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CN104109931A (zh) * 2014-07-28 2014-10-22 无锡富士时装有限公司 针织物及其编织方法
DE102014116558A1 (de) 2014-11-12 2016-05-12 Ofa Bamberg Gmbh Kompressionsgestrick mit zusätzlichem Kompressionsfaden
CN108893846B (zh) * 2018-07-27 2021-02-02 珠海建轩服装有限公司 织物中制作流苏的方法
CN110592788B (zh) * 2019-09-06 2021-04-23 惠州学院 一种仿席编针织物的编织方法
CN112442787B (zh) * 2020-10-09 2022-05-27 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种交织编织鞋面及其制作方法
CN114703590B (zh) * 2022-03-08 2023-06-13 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种全成型浮线移针组织编织方法及针织物
CN115058821A (zh) * 2022-06-24 2022-09-16 百润(晋江)科技有限公司 一种轻薄透孔针织提花面料及其编织工艺、鞋面

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CN103422243A (zh) 2013-12-04
EP2664701A1 (fr) 2013-11-20
CN103422243B (zh) 2015-10-21

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