EP2654710A2 - Préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à teneur élevée en agents d'humidification de la peau - Google Patents
Préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à teneur élevée en agents d'humidification de la peauInfo
- Publication number
- EP2654710A2 EP2654710A2 EP11801679.9A EP11801679A EP2654710A2 EP 2654710 A2 EP2654710 A2 EP 2654710A2 EP 11801679 A EP11801679 A EP 11801679A EP 2654710 A2 EP2654710 A2 EP 2654710A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- preparation
- preparation according
- thickeners
- proportion
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
Definitions
- the invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising a combination of polyacrylate and polyacrylamide thickener. Despite a high proportion of skin moisturizing agent, the preparations have advantageous stability and product sensor technology.
- Skin moisture is a term from the cosmetics industry. Healthy skin has a natural moisture. Only when the human skin shows anomalies with regard to dryness, does the lack of skin moisture come into play. Apart from pathological causes, the age of the human skin and the pigmentation also play a role. An important role in the hydration of the skin is played by moisturizing factors, e.g. Urea. These can be supplied to the skin by skin care products.
- moisturizing factors e.g. Urea.
- humidifiers can be used to support a healthy skin moisture.
- Moisturizers also referred to as moisturizers, are substances or mixtures of substances which impart the property to cosmetic or dermatological preparations after application or spreading on the surface of the skin
- Moisturizing the horny layer also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) called
- TEWL transepidermal water loss
- a disadvantage has hitherto been that a high proportion of humectants in emulsions meant that the care emulsions had an unacceptable consistency and a non-desired by the user stickiness. It is desirable to provide preparations which can be provided at high skin moisturizer content, in particular a high polyol / glycol content, in particular glycerol content, without any loss of product sensor technology.
- Thickeners are auxiliaries for establishing a suitable product consistency and a suitable flow behavior of cosmetic or dermatological preparations. They are preferably used in emulsions and surfactant-containing cleaning products.
- the substance group of the thickeners can be roughly into the natural thickeners, such as starch, gelatin, alginates, the modified natural substances, such as cellulose ethers or
- Hydroxyethyl cellulose and the fully synthetic polymers, such as. As polyacrylates, divide.
- Known natural or modified thickeners include polysaccharides, xanthan gum, cellulose ethers and other cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, gelatin, starch and starch derivatives, sodium alginates,
- Fatty acid polyethylene glycol ester Fatty acid polyethylene glycol ester, agar-agar, tragacanth or dextrins and mixtures thereof.
- Further thickeners are known on the basis of silicates or modified clays such as bentonites or hectorites or their derivatives.
- polyacrylate thickeners examples are polyacrylates from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2020, 2984, 3128, 5984 and permutants TR1, TR2, in each case individually or in combination.
- carbopols for example Carbopols of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2020, 2984, 3128, 5984 and permutants TR1, TR2, in each case individually or in combination.
- Carbopol 3128 is an acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, a copolymer of C10-30 alkyl acrylate and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple ester branched with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.
- WO 2006134038 A1 mentions permuiens TR 1 and Carbopol 3128 which are distinguished on the one hand by very good emulsifying properties but on the other hand also lead to a highly shear-thinning, theological behavior as preferred gel and structure formers. That they form a strong structure, which spontaneously collapses under shear.
- polyacrylamide thickener are also used as anionic or cationic modified products (anionic and cationic polyacrylamides), the z. B. by copolymerization of acrylamide with sodium acrylate or quaternary ammonium acrylates are obtained according to the following structure
- Known polyacrylamides are the crosslinked copolymer with the trade name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) from SEPPIC.
- CFA name polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7
- Simulgel 600 CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80
- SEPI PLUS 265 an acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer in admixture with polyisobutenes and polysorbate 20, the company SEPPIC.
- Cosmetic preparations comprising Sepiplus 265 are known, for example, as an anti-age product Nutri 35/50 comprising glycerol at 2% by weight, polyglyceryl-4 stearates at 3% by weight and other customary cosmetic constituents, and from US 20070237735.
- the cosmetic specialist is often faced with the problem of ensuring the stability of the preparation and taking into account sensory aspects.
- Formulations with a high polyol / glycol content or glycerol content above 5% by weight, in particular more than 10% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation are often difficult to disperse on the skin and penetrate slowly into the skin. Although these systems are distinguished by good skin moisturizing performance, they often also have a sensor system that is unattractive to the consumer.
- dermatological preparations which comprise a high proportion of skin moisturizers such as glycerol, to a relatively attractive sensors.
- the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a. ) one or more thickeners based on polyacrylate,
- one or more polyacrylamide-based thickeners and skin moisturizers in particular one or more polyols, glycols, in particular glycerol, with a proportion of at least 5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
- glycols are propylene glycols and butylenes glycols.
- polyols are the 1, 2 alkanediols, especially 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 2-octanediol, skin moisturizers advantageous.
- the latter are preferred in
- Stress tests are carried out under different environmental conditions (heat, cold and room temperature) over a storage period of up to 360 days. This is followed by an organoleptic assessment of the stability patterns. Furthermore, the pH value and the viscosity or consistency are monitored over a period of up to 180 days.
- polyacrylate-based thickeners in particular acrylates and acrylate crosspolymers are understood.
- Carbopol The chemical nature of these acrylates, trade name Carbopol, is generically referred to as "carbomers" according to USP-NF (U.S.A. Pharmacopeia), European Pharmacopoeia, British Pharmacopoeia, United States Adopted Names Council (USAN), and International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
- the Japanese Pharmacopoeia designates Carbopol homopolymers as "carboxyvinyl polymer” and "carboxy polymethylene.”
- the Italian Pharmacopoeia identifies Carbopol 934P as "carboxy polymethylene” and the German Pharmacopoeia names Carbopol 980NF as "polyacrylic acid.”
- Carbopol copolymers such as Carbopol 1342 NF and 1382, are referred to by the USP-NF as “carbomers”, which are also named “Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylates Cross Polymers” according to INCI
- the acrylate crosspolymers commercially available under the names Pemulen TR1 and TR2, Carbopol 1342, 1382, ETD 2020, Ultrez 21 (Lubrizol Advanced Materials) as well as the commercial acrylates designated Carbopol 954, 5984, 980, 981, and 7 or Carbopol 2984 preferably to choose as polyacrylate-based thickener.
- the acrylate / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer to be used as the polyacrylate thickener as Carbomer 3128 or Pemulen TR1, to choose.
- polyacrylate thickeners in particular acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylates
- Crosspolymer is preferably selected in a proportion of 0.01 wt.% To 1, 0 wt, preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.7 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
- Preferred polyacrylamide thickeners are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymers selected.
- Such a preferred polyacrylamide-based thickener commercially available as Sepiplus 265 is commercially available.
- the acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer is offered in the mixture with polyisubutylene, polysorbate 20, sorbitan isostearate and water.
- polyamide thickeners are available, for example, under the names Sepiplus 250 (with mineral oil and polysorbate 20) from Seppic and the Bozepole CV from Clariant.
- polyacrylamide-based thickeners are often only available in mixtures with the listed solvents PIB, etc. in order to improve their handling, for example to prevent the formation of dust.
- the proportion of polyacrylamide thickeners is preferably selected in an amount of 0.1 to 4% by weight, in particular in the range of 0.3 to 2% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
- Skin moisturizer with a content of more than 5% by weight, preferably more than 10% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
- moisturizers are propylene glycols and butylene glycols.
- the 1, 2 alkanediols are advantageous Hautbefeuchter.Der due to the high proportion of glycerol thereby expected disadvantage of a sticky sensor is not surprisingly occurred.
- the preparations furthermore advantageously comprise one or more powder raw materials.
- a powder is a very finely ground, dry solid that is used in cosmetics.
- the powder carriers exist depending on the application Silicates (talc and kaolin), carbonates (magnesium or calcium carbonate), oxides (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide), organic zinc and magnesium salts (stearates, laurates and undecanates) or sugar derivatives.
- the powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives are, for example, starch and / or starch derivatives or cyclodextrins and / or
- starch powders are, for example, distarch phosphate, tapioca starch, acetyl or adipic acid substituted starch, hydroxypropylated starch, starch substituted with N-octenyl succinate, corn starch, 2-hydropropyl ether modified starch and
- Tapioca or tapioca starch is an almost tasteless starch, which is made from the processed and dried cassava root (cassava).
- Preferred powder raw materials to be selected are methyl methacrylates, polymethylsilsesquioxanes, tapioca starch, distarch phosphates, nylon, polyamides-5, aluminum starch
- Octenylsuccinates and acrylonitrile-methacrylonitrile-methyl-methacrylate copolymer are acrylonitrile-methacrylonitrile-methyl-methacrylate copolymer.
- the powder methyl methacrylate crosspolymer is also a polymer, it has no thickening properties due to its chemical structure.
- the purder raw material (s) are preferably to be selected in a proportion in the range from 0.5% by weight to 4% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
- methyl methacrylate crosspolymer polymethylsilsesquioxane, tapioca starch and distarch phosphates.
- These powder raw materials are used in particular to a proportion of 0.5 to 3 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation
- methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and / or
- Polymethylsilsesquioxane particularly advantageous to use as a powder raw material.
- the total proportion of powder raw materials is preferably still to be selected in the stated range of shares or only the preferably mentioned powder raw materials are present in the preparation in the stated range of proportions.
- the cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention leave no greasy or sticky impression on the skin, are extremely tolerated by the skin, are storage-stable and are furthermore surprisingly characterized in that they have an extraordinary skin moisturizing performance.
- the formulations are formulated on the basis of an emulsion.
- preparations according to the invention e.g. called: solutions, suspensions, emulsions, PIT emulsions, pastes, ointments, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleaning preparations, oils, aerosols and sprays.
- Other applications are e.g. Sticks, shampoos and shower baths.
- the preparation may contain any customary carrier substances, auxiliaries and optionally further active ingredients.
- Lipids are fats and fat-like substances. For cosmetics, they are of importance, above all, as emollient ingredients and as skin-specific lipids of the horny layer, which are stored between the horny cells. They enable the skin to store moisture. In addition to the nourishing aspect, lipids become the cosmetic
- Preparations added to ensure better distribution on the skin and to improve the sensory properties of the preparations.
- cyclomethicone / decacyclopentasiloxane D5
- cyclomethicone / dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane D6
- the mixtures can be used on their own or in appropriate formulations as volatile silicone compounds (Cosmet. Toiletries 107, No. 5, 27 [1992]).
- Silicone containing oils include the high molecular weight polydiorganosiloxanes known as silicone gums. Silicone gums are described for example in US 4152416. High molecular weight means a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol.
- Known silicone gums are polymeric polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name:
- Dimethicone e.g. As the products sold under the name DC 200 by Dow Corning products, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Phenyl Trimethicone), z.
- the commercial product DC 556 fluid from Dow Corning silicone glycol copolymers (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), z.
- the commercial products DC 190 and DC 193 Dow Corning esters and partial esters of silicone glycol copolymers, such as those sold by Fanning under the trade name Fancorsil LIM (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol Meadowfoamate), dimethylsiloxanes with hydroxy - end groups (INCI name: dimethiconol), z.
- the commercial products DC 1401 and Q2-1403 from Dow Coming are examples of Dow Coming.
- silicone gums are, for example, SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76 from General Electric.
- silicone gums from Dow Corning with the name Dow Corning® 1501 fluid (cyclopentasiloxanes, dimethiconol); Dow Corning® 1503 Fluid (dimethicone, dimethiconol), Dow Corning® CB 1556 fluid (phenyl trimethicone,
- silicone fluids and volatile silicone oils such as cyclomethicones, and silicone gums are also known in cosmetic preparations.
- the silicones to be used according to the invention preferably consist of light, e.g.
- volatile cyclic compounds such as cyclomethicones (D5 / D6) as well as minor proportions of heavier linear silicone compounds
- the cyclic compounds give the pleasant feeling on the skin, ensure very good spreadability and silky sensory properties directly on the distribution process of the product on the skin.
- the linear compounds give a silky residue on the skin even after 5 minutes or even longer periods after the last application of the product
- Preferred concentration ranges for the cyclomethicones according to the invention are from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 7.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
- Silicone compounds are in the range of 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, Preferably 1, 0 to 2.0 wt.% Based on the total weight of the formulation.
- the total content of the silicone phase in the formulation is therefore preferably between 3.5 and 12.5% by weight, preferably between 4.0 and 10.0% by weight, more preferably between 5.0 and 7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
- the ratio of cyclomethicones to the long-chain linear silicone compounds should be between 10: 1 and 1: 1, preferably between 5: 1 and 2: 1.
- a proportion of cyclic compounds which is at least always twice as high in relation to the linear silicones is preferably present in the formula according to the invention.
- Long-chain means an Si atomic number greater than 20.
- Polyacrylamide thickeners in particular acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer, are suitable for improving the product sensors of cosmetic or dermatological preparations which comprise skin moisturizing agents, polyols, glycols, in particular glycerol, in a proportion of more than 5% by weight.
- cosmetic or dermatological preparations with regard to their product sensor system comprising 0.2 to 0.7% by weight of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates
- Crosspolymer Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tapioca Starch, Distarch Phosphate, Nylon, Polyamide-5, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Acrylonitrile-methacrylonitrile-methyl-methacrylate copolymer.
- the total proportion of polyacrylate or polyacrylamide thickeners is furthermore preferably specified
- This restriction also applies to other than preferred substances or groups of substances, such as powder raw materials, UV filters. That in the case of a restriction to preferred proportions and a simultaneous restriction to preferred species of these groups, it is according to the invention that in each case no other species of these groups are contained in the preparation.
- Methylpropanediol 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.20
- Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 1 50 2.00; >, 00
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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- Epidemiology (AREA)
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- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
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Abstract
L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant une combinaison d'épaississants de polyacrylate et de polyacrylamide. Malgré une teneur élevée en agents d'humidification de la peau, ces préparations présentent une stabilité avantageuse et simultanément elles sont plus agréables au toucher pour l'utilisateur.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE201010063863 DE102010063863A1 (de) | 2010-12-22 | 2010-12-22 | Kosmetische oder dermatologische Hautpflegezubereitungen umfassend eine Kombination aus Polyacrylat- und Polyacrylamidverdicker |
DE201010063888 DE102010063888A1 (de) | 2010-12-22 | 2010-12-22 | Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit hohem Hautbefeuchtungsmittelanteil umfassend eine Kombination aus Polyacrylat- und Polyacrylamidverdicker |
PCT/EP2011/072557 WO2012084601A2 (fr) | 2010-12-22 | 2011-12-13 | Préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à teneur élevée en agents d'humidification de la peau |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2654710A2 true EP2654710A2 (fr) | 2013-10-30 |
Family
ID=45406712
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP11801679.9A Withdrawn EP2654710A2 (fr) | 2010-12-22 | 2011-12-13 | Préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à teneur élevée en agents d'humidification de la peau |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP2654710A2 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN103347489A (fr) |
BR (1) | BR112013015608A2 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2012084601A2 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR3062059B1 (fr) * | 2017-01-26 | 2020-08-28 | Laboratoires M&L | Base de formulation cosmetique concentree description |
Family Cites Families (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4152416A (en) | 1976-09-17 | 1979-05-01 | Marra Dorothea C | Aerosol antiperspirant compositions delivering astringent salt with low mistiness and dustiness |
GB9109796D0 (en) * | 1991-05-04 | 1991-06-26 | Procter & Gamble | Cosmetic compositions |
DE10155962A1 (de) * | 2001-11-09 | 2003-05-22 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Hydroxybenzophenonen und Acrylamid-Polymeren |
DE10231062A1 (de) * | 2002-07-10 | 2004-01-22 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an hydrophobisierten Acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonsäure-Polymeren |
DE102005028364A1 (de) | 2005-06-16 | 2006-12-28 | Beiersdorf Ag | Multifunktionsflasche |
EP1752133A1 (fr) | 2005-08-11 | 2007-02-14 | Wella Aktiengesellschaft | Usage d'epaississants polymères dans des compositions de traitement de la chevelure, method et composition |
US20070237735A1 (en) | 2006-03-31 | 2007-10-11 | Laboratoires Dermo-Cosmetik Inc. | Anti-aging composition, kit and method of use |
WO2009036008A1 (fr) * | 2007-09-10 | 2009-03-19 | Isp Investments Inc. | Compositions d'écran solaire de type à température d'inversion de phase, résistantes à l'eau et au frottement |
-
2011
- 2011-12-13 EP EP11801679.9A patent/EP2654710A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2011-12-13 BR BR112013015608A patent/BR112013015608A2/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2011-12-13 CN CN2011800622818A patent/CN103347489A/zh active Pending
- 2011-12-13 WO PCT/EP2011/072557 patent/WO2012084601A2/fr active Application Filing
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
See references of WO2012084601A2 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
BR112013015608A2 (pt) | 2018-05-15 |
CN103347489A (zh) | 2013-10-09 |
WO2012084601A3 (fr) | 2012-09-20 |
WO2012084601A2 (fr) | 2012-06-28 |
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