EP2490658A1 - Composition pour la mise en forme de fibres kératiniques, contenant un amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène - Google Patents

Composition pour la mise en forme de fibres kératiniques, contenant un amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène

Info

Publication number
EP2490658A1
EP2490658A1 EP10771422A EP10771422A EP2490658A1 EP 2490658 A1 EP2490658 A1 EP 2490658A1 EP 10771422 A EP10771422 A EP 10771422A EP 10771422 A EP10771422 A EP 10771422A EP 2490658 A1 EP2490658 A1 EP 2490658A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
propylene oxide
weight
cosmetic
starch
modified
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP10771422A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Matthias Schweinsberg
Ralf RÖNISCH
Mathias Schriefers
Lydiane Huet
Carine Dogan
Thorsten Knappe
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE102009045933A external-priority patent/DE102009045933A1/de
Priority claimed from DE102009045925A external-priority patent/DE102009045925A1/de
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2490658A1 publication Critical patent/EP2490658A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/608—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one propylene oxide-modified starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6 wt .-% (relative on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).
  • Temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes, however, are usually not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • the synthetic polymers commonly used in temporary shaping agents are prepared from corresponding synthetically available monomers. Said monomers are derived from fossil materials such as petroleum by conversion to the corresponding polymer building blocks i.a. gained under the expense of energy.
  • renewable raw materials are accessible.
  • a reduction in quantity or even an exchange of said synthetic polymers can be made only if the replacement has the desired properties for the intended use and the keratin-containing fibers ensure a sufficient, stable hold form.
  • keratin-containing fibers Suppleness of the fixed in the form, keratin-containing fibers.
  • the formation of visible to the naked eye polymer particles on the keratin fibers must be avoided.
  • the keratin-containing fiber must not look dull, but should of course shine.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide a shape-fixing, cosmetic composition which effects an improved or equivalent shape fixation and does not have the aforementioned disadvantages. It should be possible to dispense partially or as completely as possible with the use of synthetic polymers based on fossil raw materials.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for temporary
  • Forming keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one propylene oxide-modified starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6 Wt .-% (based on the weight of propylene oxide modified starch) has.
  • These agents have excellent parameters in hair application.
  • the said strength can be almost without the use of heat at a maximum of 30 ° C by mere mixing in the
  • keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • Starch is a reserve carbohydrate which is stored by many plants in the form of usually 1 to 200 ⁇ large starch granules (granules) in different plant parts, e.g. in tubers or roots, cereal seeds, fruits and in the marrow.
  • a propylene oxide-modified starch which can be used according to the invention can be derived from starch from potatoes, maize, rice, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, barley, rye, beans, sweet potatoes, maranta or manioc , Particularly pronounced effects according to the invention are achieved by corresponding tapioca starch modified with propylene oxide or potato starch modified with propylene oxide or by mixtures of the two aforementioned starches. It is very particularly preferred according to the invention as
  • Starch belongs to the family of homoglycans and is a polycondensation product of D-glucose.
  • starch consists of three structurally different polymers of d-glucopyranose, namely amylose, amylopectin and a so-called intermediate fraction.
  • Higher plants contain 0 to 45 wt .-% amylose based on the dry matter.
  • the intermediate fraction also referred to as abnormal amylopectin, is structurally related between the amylose and the amylopectin.
  • the amounts specified for amylopectin in this application include the intermediate fraction.
  • Amylose content of less than 25 wt .-%, in particular less than 20 wt .-%, - in each case based on the wipe of said starch - has. It was found that particularly suitable for achieving the effect of the invention is a starch containing 17 to 22 wt .-% amylose and 78 to 83 wt .-% amylopectin.
  • Amylose consists of predominantly linear ⁇ -1, 4-glycosidically linked d-glucose, M r 50000-150000. The resulting chains form double helices in the starch.
  • Amylopectin contains in addition to the a-1, 4-linkages described for amylose also in an amount of 4 to 6% a-1, 6 bonds as branching sites.
  • the average distance between the branching sites is about 12 to 17 glucose units.
  • the molecular weight of 10 7 to 7 ⁇ 10 8 corresponds to about 10 5 glucose units, making amylopectin to the largest
  • a starch modified with propylene oxide is understood according to the invention to mean a reaction product of a starch with propylene oxide.
  • a reaction product comprises at least one ormel (I),
  • the starch Prior to modification by means of propylene oxide, the starch may have been subjected to various physical or chemical processes, such as heat treatment, shearing, thermal, acid hydrolysis, oxidative or enzymatic cleavage, etc.
  • the starch modified with propylene oxide is not present in the composition according to the invention in the form of individual starch granules (granules).
  • the starch granules are disrupted, e.g. released by heat or shear and the corresponding polysaccharide molecules from the composite. The released
  • Polysaccharide molecules are modified after or before release with propylene oxide.
  • the propoxylated starch is gelatinized. If an aqueous suspension of starch is heated or compressed, a tangential swelling of the bodies at a critical temperature or pressure is observed with loss of birefringence, change in the X-ray structure and abrupt increase in the viscosity of the solution. This phenomenon is called gelatinization.
  • novel propylene oxide-modified starches are present in the agent according to the invention in a molecular weight distribution.
  • the molecular weight distribution was determined experimentally by means of gel filtration chromatography against dextran.
  • An important feature of the invention is the weight-average molecular weight of the propylene oxide-modified starches present in the composition according to the invention. That said
  • Weight average is an average molecular weight which is the total weight of the molecules different molecular weight and not just the number of molecules. For the statistical calculation of the weight average, first the "weight fraction"
  • M w [ ⁇ (/ ⁇ M 2 i)] / [ ⁇ (/ ⁇ Mi)].
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain those propylene oxide-modified starches which have an average molecular weight (weight average) of from 100 to 2000 kDa, in particular from 500 to 1800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa.
  • propylene oxide-modified starch is uncrosslinked.
  • Crosslinking of the propylene oxide-modified starch is present when the linear or branched polysaccharide macromolecules of the starch covalently through a
  • Crosslinking agents are linked to form a three-dimensional, insoluble and only swellable polymeric network. Native strength is generally considered uncrosslinked and, if networking is desired, requires artificial networking
  • a mechanical cleavage e.g. from 100 to 400 kDa, or 200 to 300 kDa
  • an enzymatic cleavage in particular with alpha-amylase, beta-amylase, glucoamylase or debranching enzymes
  • an acid hydrolysis cleavage especially with hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or
  • oxidizing agents such as periodate, hypochlorite, chromic acid, permanganate, nitrogen dioxide, hydrogen peroxide or organic percarboxylic acid, preferably with hydrogen peroxide.
  • Kneaders, extruders, stator / rotor machines and / or agitators are suitable for the mechanical splitting of the starch.
  • the oxidative cleavage by means of hydrogen peroxide is preferred.
  • the propylene oxide-modified starch is added to water, heated to 50 to 70 ° C, added hydrogen peroxide and stirred at 70 to 85 ° C for 2 to 5 hours.
  • the content of propylene oxide of starch affects the hairstyle and hairstyle flexibility, as well as the stability of the cosmetic products. It has surprisingly been found that optimum application parameters are obtained when the propylene oxide-modified starch, based on the weight of said starch, has the propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight.
  • the propylene oxide content can be determined, for example, after carrying out a Hodges cleavage with the method according to DIN EN 13268.
  • such cosmetic compositions are outstandingly suitable for the purposes of the invention in which the propylene oxide-modified starch is dissolved in a 43% strength by weight solution in water (ie a 43% strength by weight aqueous solution).
  • propylene oxide-modified polysaccharides has a viscosity in the range of 150 to 1500,000 mPa s (Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 U / min).
  • Excellently suitable propylene oxide-modified polysaccharides have viscosities of from 3000 to 200,000 mPa.s, in particular from 10,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, very particularly preferably from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s (measured in each case under the abovementioned conditions).
  • the cosmetic agent is the propylene oxide-modified polysaccharide in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 2 wt .-% to 6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition contains.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably comprise foams or gels as cosmetic carriers and are therefore preferably present as foam or gel. With the said strengths can be achieved an excellent consolidation. Furthermore, the gels prepared with said starches additionally achieve a soft transparency.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified tapioca starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6 weight percent (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified tapioca starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified tapioca starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 Wt .-% - aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).
  • Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of the propylene oxide-modified starch) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43 wt .-% aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).
  • Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt .-% aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).
  • Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of the propylene oxide-modified starch) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43 wt .-% aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).
  • Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified potato starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).
  • Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified potato starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified potato starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic vehicle at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers in particular
  • human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).
  • Propylene oxide modified according to embodiments A) to R)) contains the Cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one polymer selected from film-forming polymers or setting polymers. In this way, for example, a fine-tuning of the deformation result and the care of the fibers can be achieved.
  • These additional polymers are different from the propylene oxide modified starches and may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic, or temporarily cationic (preferably nonionic, permanent cationic, or temporarily cationic).
  • polymers are understood as meaning compounds which are made up of a large number of molecules in which one or more types of atoms or
  • Atomic groupings (so-called constitutive units, basic building blocks or
  • Repeating units are repeatedly lined up and have a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol.
  • the polymers are obtained by polyreaction, the latter being synthetic (i.e., synthetic) or natural.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner.
  • Hair-setting polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • the additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants.
  • a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
  • these cationic celluloses are in turn such cationic celluloses the INCI name Polyquaternium-4, which are sold, for example, under the names Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 from the company National Starch.
  • additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-VI) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M-V)
  • R and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • a and A 2 independently of one another represent a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or
  • RR 22 , RR 33 , RR 55 and R 6 independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • R 7 is a (C 8 to C 30 ) alkyl group.
  • the monomer (M-VI) To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (M-VI) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Suitable compounds are, for example, as
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • At least one copolymer (b1) is included, which comprises in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M-l)
  • R is a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
  • the copolymers (b1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (b1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and
  • copolymers (b1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M1) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • Polyquaternium-16 N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
  • BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Style , Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ® Luviquat.RTM ® HM 552
  • N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Ultra Care available.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b2) starting from
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they additionally contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b2) which contains at least one
  • the copolymers (b2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (Ml) and (M-II) in the copolymer a maximum of 5 wt .-% , preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (b2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (Ml) and (M-II) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-% , preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • Copolymers (b2) exclusively from structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (M-1) and (M-II)
  • indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • component (b2) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidon / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ® Hold by BASF ,
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (b2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol% and in particular 40 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol% and in particular 60 mol%
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise copolymers (b3) which act as structural units as film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer Structural units of the formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and at least a structural unit according to formula (M-VII) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M-VIII)
  • the copolymers (b3) result not only in polymer units which result from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (III), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) into the copolymer, not more than 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (b3) are exclusively from structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M-1), (M-VII), a formula (poly3)
  • component (b2) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidonA / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® Supreme available.
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (b3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (M- I) and 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol%
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ® (BASF SE)
  • BASF SE Luviquat Care ®
  • VinylpyrrolidonA inylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care or Luviquat Hold ® (BASF SE)),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H- imidazolium copolymer such as sold under the trade name Luviquat ® Supreme (with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 BASF SE)), as well as mixtures of these polymers.
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as additional film-forming and / or setting polymer at least one film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer.
  • a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • the film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15.0% by weight .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed
  • a combination of film-forming nonionic and / or strengthening nonionic polymers comprising at least one nonionic copolymer of the
  • Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ® K 90 or Luviskol ® K 85 from BASF SE.
  • Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products.
  • Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ® as an emulsion from Air Products.
  • Means comprising as film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed from
  • Carbon atoms in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
  • the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40 ,
  • Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® VA 37, Luviskol ® VA 55, Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.
  • Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain, as nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer, at least one copolymer (n1) containing at least one structural unit of formula (M-I) and at least one structural unit of formula (M-VII ) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M-VII) contains
  • these copolymers have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • Copolymers (n1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) and can be represented by the general formula (poly4)
  • a particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.
  • those pulverulent compositions which additionally comprise at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III) are suitable.
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • X 1 represents an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • A is a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group.
  • nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer is selected from at least one polymer which fulfills at least one or more of the following features:
  • R is a methyl group
  • X 1 stands for a group NH
  • A is ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another, represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl).
  • the additional nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer of this embodiment is at least one polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III-8),
  • Nonionic setting polymer of this embodiment is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylaminiopropylmethacrylamide, which is sold for example with the INCI name VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer, for example under the trade name Styleze 'CC 10 from ISP.
  • those cosmetic agents containing at least one additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are preferred, provided that all of these additional polymers are polysaccharide-based polymers.
  • These additional polymers are, of course, different from the propylene oxide modified polysaccharides. Again, preference is given to all other polymers of the cosmetic composition according to the invention selected from xanthan, dehydroxanthan, alginate, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, starch, chitosan or mixtures.
  • the additional filjectenden and / or setting polymers are preferably in an amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 2.5 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of By means of, included.
  • n is an integer from 1 to 4.
  • agents according to the invention are particularly effective if they contain glycerol and / or sorbitol as compounds of the formula (II).
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 , Amine oxides,
  • Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • nonionic surfactants are particularly preferably suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, which are selected from
  • the nonionic surfactants are preferably in an amount of 0.005 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition, in the inventive composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one plant extract.
  • these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant.
  • the extracts exclusively from Produce flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • Suitable plant extracts are obtained by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation.
  • According to the invention are especially the extracts of bamboo, linseed, water lily, green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut - nuts, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
  • the additional plant extract is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular from 0, 1 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the agent according to the invention is formulated as a cream - that the cosmetic agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one oil phase.
  • an oil phase is understood as meaning a phase which is liquid at 20 ° C. and dissolves at 20 ° C. to less than 1 g in 100 g of water.
  • the oil phase preferably has a viscosity of up to 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II +, 20 ° C., 20 revolutions per minute, spindle no. 1).
  • the oil of the oil phase is selected from at least one oil of the group that is formed
  • Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol.
  • Preferred vegetable oils are selected from at least one member of the group formed from amaranth oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sesame oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • Preferred ester oils are selected from esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of
  • fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • Mono, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol which are preferably usable as oil in the oil phase are in particular the triglyceride esters of capric and caprylic acids (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), for example obtainable as a commercial product Cognis under the name myritol ® 312th
  • the additional oil phase is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.
  • agents according to the invention which additionally contain at least one fatty substance.
  • a fatty substance is understood as meaning those compounds which are soluble at less than 1 g at 20 ° C. in 100 g of water.
  • the fatty substance is selected from at least one fatty substance of the group which is formed from candelilla wax, shea butter, carnauba wax, beeswax, coconut fat, d 2 to C 2 o fatty acids (in particular palmitic acid, stearic acid)
  • the additional fatty substance is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 35% by weight, in particular from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the agents according to the invention contain their active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, alcoholic cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, alcoholic cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier.
  • such carriers are, for example, lotions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, creams, gels, foams, pomades, waxes or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol or 1, 3-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • a cationic surfactant can be used as a conditioner.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines are preferred.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the addition of surface-active substances can have a negative effect on the hydrophobic properties of the hydrophobized silica and thus on the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the amount of nourishing surfactant must be carefully matched to the overall composition.
  • the addition of surface-active constituents is dispensed with.
  • At least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives can furthermore be used.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. Particularly preferred are vitamins belonging to the B group or to the vitamin B complex, most preferably vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives wherein the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, is preferred.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda), Crosilk ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • lipids and oil bodies for example vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and ester oils, enzymes and pearl extracts are suitable as a care substance.
  • UV filter By adding a UV filter, both the preparations themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It may therefore be advantageous to additionally add at least one UV filter to the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • An example is here 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ® MS 40; Uvasorb ® S 5) mentioned.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • co-amino acids such as o> aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is possible.
  • a second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for the temporary reshaping and / or shape fixing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.
  • a third object of the invention is a method for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers.
  • the keratinic fibers are not rinsed and left on the fiber after the action of the cosmetic compositions of the first subject of the invention.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone (about 20% solids in water, INCI name: PVP) (BASF)
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone (about 20% solids in water, INCI name: PVP) (BASF)
  • the hair strands treated with the agent according to the invention had a hairstyle that was more resistant to atmospheric moisture. Better HHCR scores and better hairstyle hold were obtained by performing the analogous experiments with appropriately modified potato starch.
  • Standardized hair strands of the company Kerling (Art. No. 827560) of the hair type "European Natural, Color 6/0" of a length (L max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 0.6 g used.
  • the strands were washed with a 12.5 wt .-% sodium laurethsulphat solution.
  • the hair strands were dried overnight in a drying oven at 318K.
  • compositions 0.18 g were applied to one strand of hair and massaged. The tress was then wound on a winder (Fripac-medis, 0 7mm, Art. No. D-1203) and dried overnight at room temperature.
  • the winder was carefully removed and the tress hung.
  • the lengths of the curls were each measured (L 0 ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they were stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 24 h and then measured again the lengths of the curls (L t ).
  • HHCR high-humidity curl retention

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits cosmétiques pour la mise en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques, contenant dans un véhicule cosmétique au moins un amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène, ledit amidon présentant un poids moléculaire moyen (moyenne pondérée) de 50 à 2500 kDa et une teneur en oxyde de propylène de 4 à 6 % en poids (par rapport au poids de l'amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène). Ces produits cosmétiques permettent d'obtenir une coiffure d'un bon maintien et d'une grande souplesse. Ces amidons modifiés par de l'oxyde de propylène sont à base de matières premières renouvelables, ce qui permet de préparer des produits coiffants efficaces pour cheveux sans avoir recours exclusivement à des polymères à pouvoir fixatif issus de combustibles fossiles.
EP10771422A 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Composition pour la mise en forme de fibres kératiniques, contenant un amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène Withdrawn EP2490658A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009045933A DE102009045933A1 (de) 2009-10-22 2009-10-22 Zusammensetzung zur Formgebung keratinischer Fasern
DE102009045925A DE102009045925A1 (de) 2009-10-22 2009-10-22 Zusammensetzungen zur Formgebung keratinischer Fasern
PCT/EP2010/065862 WO2011048178A1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Composition pour la mise en forme de fibres kératiniques, contenant un amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène

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EP2490658A1 true EP2490658A1 (fr) 2012-08-29

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EP10768781.6A Active EP2490657B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques contenant un amidon non-ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de proplyène et un polymère supplémentaire nonionique filmogène ou fixant
EP10771422A Withdrawn EP2490658A1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Composition pour la mise en forme de fibres kératiniques, contenant un amidon modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène
EP10768237.9A Active EP2490656B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques comprenant un amidon non ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène et un polymère anionique
EP10766067.2A Active EP2490653B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins un amidon non ionique, modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène, et au moins un polymère supplémentaire cationique filmogène et/ou fixateur
EP10776320.3A Active EP2490659B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour le maintien de la chevelure comprenant un amidon non ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de proprylène et un chitosan

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EP10768781.6A Active EP2490657B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques contenant un amidon non-ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de proplyène et un polymère supplémentaire nonionique filmogène ou fixant

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EP10768237.9A Active EP2490656B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques comprenant un amidon non ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène et un polymère anionique
EP10766067.2A Active EP2490653B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins un amidon non ionique, modifié par de l'oxyde de propylène, et au moins un polymère supplémentaire cationique filmogène et/ou fixateur
EP10776320.3A Active EP2490659B1 (fr) 2009-10-22 2010-10-21 Produit pour le maintien de la chevelure comprenant un amidon non ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de proprylène et un chitosan

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US (5) US20120328532A1 (fr)
EP (5) EP2490657B1 (fr)
WO (5) WO2011048178A1 (fr)

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EP2570190A1 (fr) 2011-09-15 2013-03-20 Braun GmbH Buse de pulvérisation pour distribuer un fluide et pulvérisateur comportant une telle buse de pulvérisation
DE102011088397A1 (de) * 2011-12-13 2013-06-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Zusammensetzungen zur Färbung keratinischer Fasern
DE102011088398A1 (de) * 2011-12-13 2013-06-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schonende oxidative Haarbehandlung mit Oxidationsmittel und speziellem Stärkederivat
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CN106999396B (zh) 2014-12-19 2020-12-29 宝洁公司 用于增强毛发纤维特性的组合物
US10400105B2 (en) 2015-06-19 2019-09-03 The Research Foundation For The State University Of New York Extruded starch-lignin foams
EP3407859B1 (fr) 2016-01-29 2021-06-02 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions pour ameliorer les proprietes de la fibre capillaire
DE102017118714A1 (de) * 2016-08-17 2018-02-22 Google Inc. Mehrstufiges Kameraträgersystem für die stereoskope Bildaufnahme
DE102017211854A1 (de) * 2017-07-11 2019-01-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Stylingmittel mit verbesserter Feuchtresistenz und Auswaschbarkeit
DE102017215328A1 (de) * 2017-09-01 2019-03-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Treibmittelhaltige kosmetische Zusammensetzungen mit Pigment-haltigen Stärkepartikeln und anionischem Polymer
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US20120207692A1 (en) 2012-08-16
US20120207694A1 (en) 2012-08-16
WO2011048178A1 (fr) 2011-04-28
WO2011048177A1 (fr) 2011-04-28
US20120207693A1 (en) 2012-08-16
EP2490659B1 (fr) 2017-03-01
EP2490659A1 (fr) 2012-08-29
EP2490653A2 (fr) 2012-08-29
EP2490656B1 (fr) 2017-01-18
WO2011048175A1 (fr) 2011-04-28
WO2011048176A1 (fr) 2011-04-28
WO2011048172A3 (fr) 2011-06-16
US8603447B2 (en) 2013-12-10
EP2490656A1 (fr) 2012-08-29
US20120213724A1 (en) 2012-08-23
EP2490657A1 (fr) 2012-08-29
EP2490653B1 (fr) 2017-01-11
EP2490657B1 (fr) 2017-01-18
WO2011048172A2 (fr) 2011-04-28
US20120328532A1 (en) 2012-12-27

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