US20120207693A1

US20120207693A1 - Agent for keratin-containing fibers, comprising at least one non-ionic starch modified by propylene oxide and at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or stabilizing polymer

Info

Publication number: US20120207693A1
Application number: US13/453,194
Authority: US
Inventors: Burkhard Mueller; Pamela KAFTAN; Rolf Bayersdoerfer; Miriam Reineking; Matthias Schweinsberg; Ralf Roenisch; Mathias Schriefers; Carine Dogan; Thorsten Knappe
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2009-10-22
Filing date: 2012-04-23
Publication date: 2012-08-16
Also published as: WO2011048177A1; EP2490653B1; US8603447B2; US20120207694A1; EP2490656B1; WO2011048176A1; US20120213724A1; WO2011048175A1; EP2490658A1; EP2490659B1; US20120328532A1; EP2490657A1; EP2490653A2; WO2011048172A3; US20120207692A1; EP2490657B1; WO2011048172A2; EP2490659A1; EP2490656A1; WO2011048178A1

Abstract

Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, particularly human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, (a) at least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer; use of the agents for temporary deformation of hair and for hair care, particularly as an aerosol hair spray or aerosol hair foam.

Description

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application is a continuation of International Application No. PCT/EP2010/065851 filed 21 Oct. 2010, which claims priority to German Patent Application Nos. 10 2009 045 925.1 and 10 2009 045 933.2, both filed 22 Oct. 2009, each of which are incorporated herein by reference.
The present invention relates hair treatment agents containing a combination of at least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and at least one cationic film-forming and/or setting polymer; use of those agents for temporary deformation and/or care of keratin-containing fibers; and to aerosol hair sprays/foams based on those agents.
“Keratin-containing fibers” generally refers to all animal hairs (e.g., wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers, and products or textiles fabricated therefrom). Keratinic fibers are, however, preferably human hair.
An attractive-looking hairstyle is generally regarded these days as an indispensable element of a well-groomed appearance. Given current fashion trends, more and more hairstyles regarded as chic are ones that, for many types of hair, can be constructed or maintained for a longer period of time of up to several days only using setting ingredients. Hair treatment agents that provide permanent or temporary shaping of the hair therefore play an important role. Temporary shaping actions that are intended to yield good hold without impairing the hair's healthy appearance such as its shine can be achieved, for example, using hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair foams, blow-dry waves, etc.
Corresponding agents for temporary shaping usually contain synthetic polymers as a shaping component. Preparations that contain a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied onto the hair using propellant gases or a pump mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes in particular, however, are generally not applied directly onto the hair but rather distributed in the hair using a comb or the hands.
An important property of an agent for temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, hereinafter also called a “styling agent,” is to impart the strongest possible hold to the treated fibers in the shape generated. If the keratinic fibers involved are human hairs, terms also used are a strong “hairstyle hold” or a high “degree of hold” of the styling agent. Hairstyle hold is determined substantially by the nature and quantity of the synthetic polymer used, although further ingredients of the styling agent can also have an influence.
In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must also meet a large number of additional requirements. These can be subdivided roughly into hair properties; properties of the particular formulation (e.g., properties of the foam, gel, or sprayed aerosol); and properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, with the hair properties being of particular importance. These include moisture resistance, low tack, and a balanced conditioning effect. In addition, if possible, a styling agent should be universally usable for all types of hair.
A variety of synthetic polymers utilized in styling agents have already been developed in order to meet different requirements. These polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric film-forming and/or setting polymers. Ideally, upon application to the hair, the polymers yield a polymer film that imparts a strong hold to the hairstyle while is sufficiently flexible so not to break under stress. If the polymer is too fragile, this results in the formation of “film plaques” (i.e., residues that detach as the hair moves and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent has dandruff).
It is still difficult to develop styling agents that meet all desired properties in combination. This applies particularly to the combination of strong hold and simple, uniform application onto the keratin-containing fibers.
The present invention therefore provides an agent for temporary deformation and/or care of keratinic fibers that is notable for a high degree of hold or an excellent care-providing effect, and particularly has outstanding ease of handling during application onto the keratin-containing fibers.
It has now been found, surprisingly, that this can be achieved using a combination of specific polymers. It has furthermore been possible in specific embodiments of the invention to provide, in addition to these outstanding properties, compositions without turbidity. Freedom from turbidity matters particularly in aerosol compositions, since solid suspended particles can result in clogging of the exit nozzle of the aerosol package. In turbid and low-viscosity compositions, a general risk of sedimentation additionally exists, which has a disadvantageous effect on shelf stability of the composition.
A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
(a) at least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, and
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer.
“Film-forming polymers” are those polymers that, upon drying, leave behind a continuous film on the skin, hair, or nails. Film-formers of this kind can be used in a very wide variety of cosmetic products such as face masks, make-up, hair setting agents, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair therapies, shampoos, or nail polishes. Those polymers having sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or in water/alcohol mixtures to be present in completely dissolved form in the agent according to the present invention are particularly preferred. The film-forming polymers can be of synthetic or natural origin.
“Film-forming polymers” are further understood according to the present invention as those polymers that, when applied in a 0.01- to 20-wt % aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
Setting polymers contribute to the hold, and/or buildup of hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are also film-forming polymers and are therefore generally typical substances for shape-imparting hair-treatment agents such as hair setting agents, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. It is certainly possible for film formation to be localized, and for only a few fibers to be connected to one another.
The “curl retention” test, or the three-point bending test, is often used as a test method for the setting effect of a polymer.
In accordance with all subsequent formulae, a chemical bond characterized by the symbol “*” represents a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive polymer charge in the agent according to the present invention.
The properties of the agent according to the present invention are particularly advantageous when it is packaged as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray, or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging is described in detail later.
Starch is a reserve carbohydrate that is stored by many plants in the form of large starch grains (granules), usually 1 to 200 μm in size, in various parts of the plant, for example, in tubers or roots, cereal seeds, fruits and in the pith. A nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide that can be used according to the invention can be obtained from the starch of potatoes, corn, rice, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, barley, rye, beans, yams, arrowroot or cassava. Particularly pronounced effects according to the present invention are achieved with nonionic tapioca starch modified with propylene oxide or a nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide or with mixtures of those two starches. Very preferably, the agent according to the present invention contains at least one nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide.
Starch belongs to the homoglycan family and is a polycondensation product of D-glucose. Starch is made up of three structurally different polymers of d-glucopyranose, namely amylose, amylopectin, and an intermediate fraction. Higher plants contain 0 to 45 wt % amylose, based on dry substance.
The intermediate fraction, also referred to as “anomalous amylopectin,” is structurally intermediate between amylose and amylopectin. The quantitative indications defined in the context of this Application for amylopectin include the intermediate fraction.
It is preferred if the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide has an amylose content of 25 wt % or less, particularly 20 wt % or less, based on total weight of the modified starch. A starch having 17 to 22 wt % amylose and 78 to 83 wt % amylopectin is particularly suitable for achieving the effect according to the present invention.
Amylose is made up of predominantly linear α-1,4-glycosidically linked d-glucose, M_r50,000 to 150,000. The resulting chains form double helices in the starch.
Amylopectin also contains, in addition to the α-1,4 links described for amylose, α-1,6 bonds (in an amount from 4 to 6%) as branching points. The average spacing between the branching points is equal to approximately 12 to 17 glucose units. The molar mass of 10⁷to 7*10⁸corresponds to about 10⁵glucose units, making amylopectin one of the largest biopolymers. The branching points are distributed over the molecule in such a way that a bundle structure with relatively short side chains develops. Each double helix is formed by two of these side chains. As a result of the many branching points, amylopectin is relatively easily soluble in water.
“Nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide” according to the present invention is a reaction product of a starch with propylene oxide. A reaction product of this kind includes at least one structural unit of formula (PS)
wherein at least one of R, R′, or R″ is a group of the formula
wherein n is greater than or equal to zero, and at most two of R, R′, and R″ are a hydrogen atom. Nonionic starches modified by means of propylene oxide are provided, for example, by reacting a natural starch with propylene oxide. Before modification with propylene oxide, the starch can have been exposed to a variety of physical or chemical processes, for example, heat treatment, shear, a thermal, acid-hydrolytic, oxidizing, or enzymatic cleavage, etc.
It is preferred if the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide is not present in the agent according to the present invention in the form of individual starch grains (granules). As such, the starch grains are disintegrated, for example, by heat or shear, and the corresponding polysaccharide molecules are released from the composite material. The released polysaccharide molecules can be modified with propylene oxide after or before release.
In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide is gelatinized. When an aqueous suspension of starch is heated or compressed, a tangential swelling of the bodies is then observed at a critical temperature or pressure, with loss of birefringence, a change in X-ray structure, and an abrupt rise in the viscosity of the solution. This phenomenon is called “gelatinization.”
Nonionic starches according to the present invention modified with propylene oxide are present in the agent in a molecular weight distribution. Preferred nonionic starches according to the present invention modified with propylene oxide have an average molecular weight from 50 to 2500 kDa (weight average). Molecular weight distribution was determined experimentally by gel filtration chromatography against dextran. The weight average is an average molecular weight that takes into account the total weight of the molecules of various molecular weights, and not simply the number of molecules.
For statistical calculation of the weight average, firstly the “weight break” is defined:
w _i=(N _i M _i)/[Σ(N _i M _i].
This indicates the weight proportion in the sample of macromolecules made up of i segments (e.g., monomer modules) of mass M_iand that occur N_itimes in the sample. The weight average of the molecular weight M_wΣ=w_iM_iis thus given by
M _w=[Σ(N _i M ² _i)]/[Σ(N _i M _i)].
Particularly preferred agents contain nonionic starches modified with propylene oxide having an average molecular weight (weight average) from 100 to 2000 kDa, particularly from 500 to 1800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa.
In order to adjust the molecular weight, the starch is subjected to mechanical and/or chemical treatment before or after modification with propylene oxide. To elevate the molecular weight, the starch can be crosslinked. Crosslinking of the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide exists when the linear or branched polysaccharide macromolecules of the starch are linked covalently with a crosslinking agent, forming a three-dimensional, insoluble, and still swellable polymeric network. Natural starch is generally considered uncrosslinked, and, if crosslinking were desirable, requires artificial crosslinking by means of synthesis chemistry. Artificial crosslinking of this kind can be carried out using crosslinking agents. Nonionic starches (modified with propylene oxide) that do not exhibit such crosslinking are uncrosslinked.
Crosslinking occurs, for example, using the crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin. For this, a mixture (42-wt % in water) of starch modified with propylene oxide is produced, into which mixture the desired amount of epichlorohydrin is stirred at room temperature. Once target viscosity is reached after a stirring time of 1 to 5 hours with viscosity monitoring, the crosslinked starch is isolated using ordinary methods.
It is particularly preferred, however, if agents according to the present invention contain at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide.
To achieve a lower molecular weight from 100 to 400 kDa, the starches are preferably exposed to mechanical cleavage, enzymatic cleavage (particularly using α-amylase, β-amylase, glucoamylase, or debranching enzymes), acid-hydrolytic cleavage (particularly using hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, or phosphoric acid), thermal cleavage, or a reaction with oxidizing agents (such as periodate, hypochlorite, chromic acid, permanganate, nitrogen dioxide, hydrogen peroxide, or organic percarboxylic acid, preferably with hydrogen peroxide). Kneaders, extruders, stator/rotor machines, and/or agitators are suitable for mechanical cleavage of the starch.
Oxidative cleavage using hydrogen peroxide is preferred. Here, for example, the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide is added to water, heated to 50 to 70° C., hydrogen peroxide is added, and stirring occurs at 70 to 85° C. for 2 to 5 hours.
Propylene oxide content of the starch affects the fine-tuning of the hairstyle hold and hairstyle flexibility, as well as stability of the cosmetic agents. The parameters can be further optimized if the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide has, based on weight of the modified starch, a propylene oxide content preferably from 1 to 20 wt %, more preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, very particularly preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %. Propylene oxide content can be determined, for example, by carrying out a Hodges cleavage using the method according to DIN EN 13268.
Those cosmetic agents wherein nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide has, in a 43-wt % aqueous solution, a preferred viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPa·s (Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at 20° C. and 20 rpm) are outstandingly suitable for purposes of the invention. Particularly suitable starches modified with propylene oxide have viscosities from 10,000 to 200,000 mPa·s, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPa·s (measured under the conditions recited above).
Nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide that is particularly preferred according to the present invention is uncrosslinked, has an average molecular weight (weight average) from 100 to 2000 kDa, particularly from 500 to 1800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa, and has a propylene oxide content, based on weight of the modified starch, from 1 to 20 wt %, particularly preferably a propylene oxide content from 4 to 12 wt %, very particularly preferably a propylene oxide content from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %. This is again preferably a tapioca starch or potato starch, particularly a potato starch.
Nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide that is very particularly preferred according to the present invention is uncrosslinked, has an average molecular weight (weight average) from 100 to 2000 kDa, particularly from 500 to 1800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa, and has a propylene oxide content, based on weight of the modified potato starch, from 4 to 12 wt %, very preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %.
It is preferred if the cosmetic agent contains nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide in an amount from 0.1 wt % to 10 wt %, more preferably from 0.2 wt % to 5.0 wt %, very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 3.0 wt %, based on total weight of the agent.
In addition, the agent according to the present invention contains at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer.
“Cationic polymers” are polymers having in the main chain and/or side chain a group that can be “temporarily” or “permanently” cationic. According to the present invention, those polymers having a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent are referred to as “permanently cationic.” These are polymers having a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example, in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Those polymers wherein the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C_1-4hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or derivatives thereof have proven particularly suitable.
A cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer preferably suitable according to the present invention is at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer having at least one structural element of formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of formula (M10)
wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R′, R″ and R′″ are, mutually independently, a (C₁to C₃₀) alkyl group,
X is an oxygen atom or an NH group,
A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group,
n is 1 or 3.
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive polymer charge.
Also suitable are those cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymers having at least one structural unit of formula (M5) and at least one structural unit of formula (V), and optionally at least one structural unit of formula (VI)
wherein
R¹and R⁴are, mutually independently, a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
A¹and A²are, mutually independently, an ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, or butane-1,4-diyl group,
R², R³, R⁵, and R⁶are, mutually independently, a (C₁to C₄) alkyl group,
R⁷is a (C₈to C₃₀) alkyl group.
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive charge of monomer (VI).
Such compounds include—

- copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate, with vinylpyrrolidone, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-11, under the designations Gafquat® 440, Gafquat® 734, Gafquat® 755 (each ISP company) and Luviquat PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),
- copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide, and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55), marketed, for example, under the commercial name Styleze W10 or Styleze W20 (10 or 20 wt % active substance in ethanol/water mixture) by the ISP company,
- copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide, and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), marketed, for example, under the commercial name AquaStyle® 300 (28 to 32 wt % active substance in ethanol/water mixture) by the ISP company.

Those agents comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, particularly having an average molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer having at least one structural element of formula (M9) as well as at least one structural element of formula (M10)

wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R′, R″ and R′″ are, mutually independently, a (C₁to C₃₀) alkyl group,
X is an oxygen atom or an NH group,
A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group,
n is 1 or 3
are thus considered, in particular, to be very particularly preferred in this embodiment.
Preferred starches of component (a) (see above) continue to be regarded, mutatis mutandis, as preferred.
Cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymers further include, in particularly preferred fashion according to the present invention, cationic quaternized cellulose derivatives.
Cationic quaternized cellulose derivatives are further suitable as film-forming and/or setting polymers.
Those cationic quaternized celluloses having more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain are particularly advantageous. Among these cationic celluloses, those having the INCI name Polyquaternium-4, marketed, for example, under the designations Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 by the National Starch Company, are particular suitable.
Those agents comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, particularly having an average molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
(b) Polyquaternium-4
are thus considered, in particular, to be very particularly preferred in this embodiment.

Further serving as cationic polymers particularly preferred for use for the invention are those cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting copolymers having at least one structural element of formula (M11)
wherein R″ is a (C₁to C₄) alkyl group, particularly a methyl group, and
additionally at least one further cationic and/or nonionic structural element.
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive polymer charge.
It is preferred according to the present invention if at least one copolymer (co1), containing in addition to at least one structural element of formula (M11) a structural element of formula (M5)
wherein R″ is a (C₁to C₄) alkyl group, particularly a methyl group,
is present as an additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer.
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive charge of copolymers (co1).
Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymers as copolymers (co1) contain 10 to 30 mol %, preferably 15 to 25 mol %, and particularly 20 mol % structural units according to formula (M11), and 70 to 90 mol %, preferably 75 to 85 mol % and particularly 80 mol % structural units according to formula (M5).
It is particularly preferred if copolymers (co1) contain, in addition to polymer units resulting from incorporation of structural units according to formulae (M11) and (M5) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt % of polymer units based on the incorporation of other monomers. Copolymers (c1) are preferably constructed exclusively from structural units of formulae (M11) wherein R″=methyl and (M5).
If a chloride ion is used to compensate for the positive charge of the copolymer, such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-16 and are obtainable, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat® Style, Luviquat® FC 370, Luviquat® FC 550, Luviquat® FC 905, and Luviquat® HM 552.
If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive charge of the copolymer, such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are obtainable, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat® UltraCare.
Those agents comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having an average molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer having in addition to at least one structural element of formula (M11), a structural element of formula (M5)

wherein R″ is a (C₁to C₄) alkyl group, particularly a methyl group,
are considered, in particular, to be very particularly preferred in this embodiment.
The preferred starches of component (a) (see above) continue to be regarded, mutatis mutandis, as preferred.
In addition to or instead of copolymer or copolymers (co1), agents according to the present invention can also contain copolymers (co2) that contain, proceeding from copolymer (co1), structural units of formula (M6) as additional structural units:
Further particularly preferred agents contain, as a cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (co2) having at least one structural unit according to formula (M11-a), at least one structural unit according to formula (M5), and at least one structural unit according to formula (M6)
Here, it is particularly preferred if copolymers (co2) contain in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of structural units according to formulae (M11-a), (M5), and (M6) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt %, of polymer units based on the incorporation of other monomers. Copolymers (co2) are preferably constructed exclusively from structural units of formulae (M11-a), (M5), and (M6).
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive polymer charge of copolymers (co2).
If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive charge of the copolymer, such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers are referred to according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are obtainable, for example, from BASF under the trade name Luviquat® Hold.
Very particularly preferred copolymers (co2) contain 1 to 20 mol %, by preference 5 to 15 mol %, and in particular 10 mol % structural units in accordance with formula (M-11a), and 30 to 50 mol %, by preference 35 to 45 mol %, and in particular 40 mol % structural units in accordance with formula (M5), and 40 to 60 mol %, by preference 45 to 55 mol %, and in particular 60 mol % structural units in accordance with formula (M6).
Those agents comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, particularly having an average molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer having at least one structural element of formula (M11), at least one structural element of formula (M5), and at least one structural element of formula (M6)

are considered, in particular, to be very particularly preferred in the context of this embodiment.
The preferred starches of component (a) (see above) continue to be regarded, mutatis mutandis, as preferred.
In addition to or instead of copolymer or copolymers (co1) and/or (co2), agents according to the present invention can also contain, as a cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, copolymers (co3) having as structural units structural units of formulae (M11-a) and (M5), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and structural units from the group of acrylamide and/or methacrylamide units.
Further particularly preferred agents contain, as an additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (co3) having at least one structural unit according to formula (M-11a), at least one structural unit according to formula (M5), at least one structural unit according to formula (M10), and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)
Here, it is particularly preferred if copolymers (co3) contain in addition to polymer units resulting from incorporation of structural units according to formulae (M11-a), (M5), (M8), and (M12) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt %, of polymer units based on the incorporation of other monomers. Copolymers (co3) are preferably constructed exclusively from structural units of formulae (M11-a), (M5), (M8), and (M12).
All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (co3).
If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive charge of the copolymer, such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole/methacrylamide copolymers are referred to according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are obtainable, for example, from BASF under the trade name Luviquat® Supreme.
Very particularly preferred copolymers (co3) contain 1 to 12 mol %, preferably 3 to 9 mol %, and particularly 6 mol % structural units according to (M-11a), and 45 to 65 mol %, preferably 50 to 60 mol %, and particularly 55 mol % structural units according to formula (M5), and 1 to 20 mol %, preferably 5 to 15 mol %, and particularly 10 mol % structural units according to formula (M8), and 20 to 40 mol %, preferably 25 to 35 mol %, and particularly 29 mol % structural units according to formula (M12).
Those agents comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, particularly having an average molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer having at least one structural unit according to formula (M11-a), at least one structural unit according to formula (M5), at least one structural unit according to formula (M10), and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)

are considered, in particular, to be very particularly preferred in this embodiment.
The preferred starches of component (a) (see above) continue to be regarded, mutatis mutandis, as preferred.
Among the additional cationic film-forming and/or setting polymers chosen from cationic polymers having at least one structural element of formula (M11-a), those considered preferred are:

- vinylpyrrolidone/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as the one having the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the commercial designations Luviquat® Style, Luviquat® FC 370, Luviquat® FC 550, Luviquat® FC 905, and Luviquat® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
- vinylpyrrolidone/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methyl sulfate copolymers (such as the one having the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the commercial designations Luviquat® Care (BASF SE)),
- vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymers (such as the one having the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the commercial designations Luviquat® Care or Luviquat® Hold (BASF SE)),
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methyl sulfate copolymers (such as the one having the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 under the commercial designations Luviquat® Supreme (BASF SE)),
  as well as mixtures of those polymers.

Further cationic polymers preferably usable in agents according to the present invention are “temporarily cationic” polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group that is present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and therefore cationic.
Likewise considered preferably suitable as temporarily cationic polymers for purposes of the invention are those having at least one structural unit of formulae (M1-1) to (M1-8)
Those copolymers having at least one structural unit of formulae (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of formula (M10)
wherein n is 1 or 3,
are preferred in this context.
The group of polymers—

- vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Di-methylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name Gaffix® VC 713 (ISP)),
- vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer (e.g. INCI name: VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, under the trade name Aquaflex SF 40 (ISP)),
- vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, as 35 to 39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E having the INCI name: Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Alcohol, Laurylpyrrolidone (ISP)),
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (10 wt % active substance) (ISP)),
  is considered a preferred list for selection therefrom of at least one or more polymers.

It is further particularly preferred if in addition to the modified starch (a) and cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer (b), the agent further contains at least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer (c). This polymer is different from the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide. A “nonionic polymer” according to the present invention is a polymer that, in a protic solvent under standard conditions, carries substantially no structural units having permanently cationic or anionic groups that must be compensated for by counterions to maintain electroneutrality.
Nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymers (c) are present in agents according to the present invention preferably in an amount from 0.1 wt % to 20.0 wt %, more preferably from 0.2 wt % to 15.0 wt %, very preferably from 0.5 wt % to 10.0 wt %, based on total weight of the agent according to the present invention.
Preferred nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic hair-setting polymers (c) contain at least one structural unit selected from the group of the structural units of formulas (M2) to (M7)
wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R′ is a hydrogen atom or a (C₁to C₄) acyl group,
R″ and R″″ are, mutually independently, a (C₁to C₇) alkyl group or a hydrogen atom,
R′″ is a linear or branched (C₁to C₄) alkyl group or a (C₂to C₄) hydroxyalkyl group.
Particularly preferred nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic hair-setting polymers (c) are homo- or copolymers constructed from at least one of the following monomers: N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters (e.g., vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol), acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide (particularly N-methyl- and N,N-dimethylacrylamide), alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide (particularly N-methyl- and N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide), alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl groups of these monomers being chosen from (C₁to C₃) alkyl groups.
Nonionic polymers which are based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers and are very particularly suitable for agents according to the present invention contain at least one of the following structural units:
wherein R′ is a hydrogen atom or a (C₁to C₃₀) acyl group, particularly a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
Homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinylpyrrolidone (such as Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 of the BASF SE company), copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (it being preferred if the molar ratio between the contained structural units of the polymer from the N-vinylpyrrolidone monomer and the contained structural units of the polymer from the vinyl acetate monomer is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, particularly from 30:70 to 60:40; marketed, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64, and Luviskol® VA 73 by the BASF SE company), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides (such as Akypomine® P 191 of the CHEM-Y company), polyvinyl alcohols (marketed, for example, under the commercial names Elvanol® of DuPont or Vinol® 523/540 of the Air Products company), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and vinylimidazole (such as Luviset® Clear of the BASF SE company), are particularly suitable.
Agents containing as a nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer (c) at least one polymer chosen from

- polyvinylpyrrolidone,
- copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
  are very particularly preferred according to the present invention.

Agents according to embodiments A) to T) are further considered, in particular, to be very particularly preferred embodiments of the variant having an additional nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer (c):
A): An agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, particularly human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

B): An agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, particularly human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

C): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

D): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

E): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch, modified with propylene oxide and having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

F): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch, modified with propylene oxide and having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

G): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide and having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

H): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide and having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

I): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

J): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

K): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

L): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

M): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

N): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified using propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

O): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified using propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, particularly preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

P): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, preferably 100 to 2000 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 1800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

Q): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 500 to 1800 kDa, preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

R): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 500 to 1800 kDa, preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

S): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 500 to 1800 kDa, preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

T): A cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one uncrosslinked nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide, having a molecular weight (weight average) from 500 to 1800 kDa, preferably from 700 to 1000, and having a propylene oxide content from 4 to 12 wt %, more preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based one weight of the modified starch,
(b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer, and
(c) a copolymer manufactured from monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly from no further monomers.

The preferred embodiments, particularly the preferred utilization quantities of the above components, apply in the context of embodiments A) to T). The preferred viscosities of the starch modified with propylene oxide are also considered preferred according to embodiments A) to T). Cationic film-forming and/or setting cationic polymers (see above) recited as preferred are likewise considered preferred according to embodiments A) to T).
To intensify the effect, agents according to the present invention preferably also contain at least one surfactant, with nonionic, anionic, cationic, and ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or also amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants can, according to the present invention, already have an emulsifying effect.
The additional surfactants are present in the agent preferably in an amount from 0.01 wt % to 5 wt %, more preferably from 0.05 wt % to 0.5 wt %, based on weight of the agent.
It is particularly preferred if the agents additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant.
Nonionic surfactants contain as a hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of a polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds include:

- addition products of 2 to 100 mol ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
- addition products, end-capped with a methyl or C₂to C₆alkyl residue, of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as, for example, the grades obtainable under the marketing designations Dehydrol® LS, Dehydrol® LT (Cognis),
- C₁₂to C₃₀fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol,
- addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,
- polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis), or Sovermol® grades (Cognis),
- alkoxylated triglycerides,
- alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (E4-I)

R¹CO—(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I),

- wherein R¹CO is a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R²is hydrogen or methyl, R³is linear or branched alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is a number from 1 to 20,
- amine oxides,
- hydroxy mixed ethers such as those described in German Patent Application No. 19738866,
- sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example, the polysorbates,
- sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
- addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
- sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglucoside types according to formula (E4-II)

R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II),

- wherein R⁴is an alkyl or alkenyl residue having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained in accordance with relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. Preferred alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP) (i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides), and is a number between 1 and 10. Whereas p in the individual molecule must always be a whole number (and here can assume especially the values p=1 to 6), the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically ascertained calculated value that usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p from 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. In terms of applications engineering, those alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7, and particularly from 1.2 to 1.4, are preferred.
Alkylene oxide addition products with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having 2 to 100 mol ethylene oxide per mol of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations having outstanding properties are likewise obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C₁₂to C₃₀fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol and/or addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil.
For surfactants representing addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, or derivatives of those addition products, both products having a “normal” homolog distribution and those having a restricted homolog distribution can be used. A “normal” homolog distribution refers to mixtures of homologs obtained upon reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides, or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Restricted homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline-earth metal salts of ethercarboxylic acids, or alkaline-earth metal oxides, hydroxides, or alcoholates are used as catalysts. Use of products having a restricted homolog distribution can be preferred.
Very preferably, agents according to the present invention contain as a surfactant at least one addition product of 15 to 100 mol ethylene oxide, particularly 15 to 50 mol ethylene oxide, with a linear or branched (particularly linear) fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This refers very preferably to ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, or ceteareth-50, marketed as Eumulgin® CS15 (COGNIS), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE), or Eumulgin® CS 50 (COGNIS).
All anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are, in principle, appropriate as anionic surfactants. These are characterized by an anionic group imparting water solubility, for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group having approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Glycol ether or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, and hydroxyl groups can additionally be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, each in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium and mono-, di, and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group:

- linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps);
- ethercarboxylic acids of the formula R—O—(CH₂—CH₂O)_x—CH₂—COOH, wherein R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x=0 or is 1 to 16;
- acyl sarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
- acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
- acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
- sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups;
- linear alkane sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
- linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
- alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R—O—(CH₂—CH₂—O)_x—OSO₃H, wherein R is preferably a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x=0 or is 1 to 12;
- mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates;
- sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and/or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers;
- sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds;
- esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, representing addition products of approximately 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
- alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula (E-1-I)

- wherein R¹preferably is an aliphatic hydrocarbon residue having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R²is hydrogen, a (CH₂CH₂O)_nR¹residue, or X, n is a number from 1 to 10, and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, or NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶where R³to R⁶are, mutually independently, hydrogen or a C₁to C₄hydrocarbon residue;
- sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of formula (E1-II)

R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II)

- wherein R⁷CO is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk is CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂, and/or CH₂CHCH₃, n is a number from 0.5 to 5, and M is a cation, as described in German Patent Application No. 197 36 906;
- monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of formula (E1-III)

- wherein R⁸CO is a linear or branched acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, and z in total is 0 or a number from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline-earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride, as well as ethylene oxide adducts thereof with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. It is preferable to use monoglyceride sulfates of formula (E1-III) wherein R⁸CO is a linear acyl residue having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- amide ether carboxylic acids;
- condensation products of C₈to C₃₀fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and/or amino acids and derivatives thereof, known to one skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, such as the Lamepon® grades, Gluadin® grades, Hostapon® KCG, or the Amisoft® grades.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, and ethercarboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycerol disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates, as well as protein fatty acid condensates.
Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound, esterquat, and amidoamine types are further usable according to the present invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, particularly chlorides and bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. Long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably comprise 10 to 18 carbon atoms (e.g., cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride). Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known by the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
“Zwitterionic surfactants” refers to surface-active compounds having in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO⁽⁻⁾or SO³⁽⁻⁾group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocalkyldimethylammonium glycinate), N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
“Ampholytes” are those surface-active compounds having in the molecule, in addition to a C₈to C₂₄alkyl or acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO₃H group, and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each having approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocalkylaminopropionate, cocacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C₁₂to C₁₈acyl sarcosine.
Agents according to the present invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic media preferably having at least 10 wt % water, based on total agent. The alcohols can be, in particular, lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, for example, ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferred to use at least one (C₁to C₄) monoalkyl alcohol in the agents according to the present invention, particularly in an amount from 1 to 50 wt %, more particularly from 5 to 30 wt %. This is particularly preferred for packaging as a pump foam or aerosol foam.
Organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point of 400° C. or lower can be used as additional co-solvents in an amount from 0.1 to 15 wt %, preferably from 1 to 10 based on total agent. Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane, and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents. Further particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt % based on total agent.
The addition in particular of glycerol and/or propylene glycol and/or polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the present invention is used. If flexible hold is desired, the agents therefore preferably contain 0.01 to 30 wt % glycerol and/or propylene glycol and/or polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol, based on total agent.
The agents preferably have a pH from 2 to 11. Particularly preferably, the pH range is from 2 to 8. Reference to pH here, for purposes of this document, refers to pH at 25° C. unless otherwise noted.
Agents according to the present invention can further contain adjuvants and additives typically added to conventional styling agents.
Additional care-providing substances can be mentioned as suitable adjuvants and additives.
Silicone oil and/or a silicone gum can be used, for example, as a care-providing substance.
Silicone oils or silicone gums suitable according to the present invention include dialkyl- and alkylarylsiloxanes (e.g., dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylsiloxane), as well as alkoxylated, quaternized, or anionic derivatives thereof. Cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, alkoxylated and/or aminated derivatives thereof, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes, and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes are preferred.
Silicone oils produce a wide variety of effects. For example, they simultaneously influence dry and wet combability, the feel of dry and wet hair, and shine. The skilled artisan understands “silicone oils” to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. They are understood firstly as dimethiconols. The following commercial products are mentioned as examples of such products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all of the Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all of the Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all of the Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all of GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all of Wacker-Chemie GmbH).
Dimethicones comprise the second group of silicones that can be used according to the present invention. They can be both linear and branched, and also cyclic or cyclic and branched.
Dimethicone copolyols (S3) are a further group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially obtainable and marketed, for example, by the Dow Corning Company under the designation Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
The present invention also includes the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. The corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols can be manufactured both after manufacture of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols, from them and using usual emulsification methods known to the skilled artisan. For this purpose, cationic, anionic, nonionic, or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries, as adjuvants for manufacture of the corresponding emulsions. Emulsions of the dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols can also be manufactured directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods, too, are very familiar to the skilled artisan.
If the dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is then, according to the present invention, from 0.01 to 10,000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, more preferably 0.01 to 20 μm, and very preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. Particle size is determined using the light-scattering method.
If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols are used, this means that the branching is greater than a branching that occurs randomly as a result of contaminants in the respective monomers. “Branched” dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols therefore, for purposes of the present invention, mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. A degree of branching greater than 0.1% is preferred, and very particularly preferably it is greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers to branching monomers (i.e., to the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes). Low-branching and high-branching dimethiconols, dimethicones, and/or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred according to the present invention.
Particularly preferred silicones are aminofunctional silicones, particularly the silicones grouped under the INCI name Amodimethicones. It is therefore preferred according to the present invention if the agents additionally contain at least one aminofunctional silicone. These are silicones having at least one optionally substituted amino group. These silicones are referred to according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicones, and are obtainable, for example, in the form of an emulsion, as a commercial product Dow Corning® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning® 949, mixed with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.
Those aminofunctional silicones having an amine number of 0.25 meq/g or greater, preferably 0.3 meq/g or greater, and particularly preferably 0.4 meq/g or greater are preferably used. The amine number here is the milliequivalent of amine per gram of aminofunctional silicone. It can be ascertained by titration, and can also be indicated with the “mg KOH/g” unit.
The agents contain silicones preferably in amounts from 0.01 wt % to 15 wt %, more preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt %, based on total agent.
The agent can contain as a care-providing substance of a different compound class, for example, at least one protein hydrolysate and/or a derivative thereof.
Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid-, base-, or enzyme-catalyzed breakdown of proteins. “Protein hydrolysates” according to the present invention also means total hydrolysates, individual amino acids and derivatives thereof, as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of protein hydrolysates usable according to the present invention is from 75 (the molecular weight of glycine) and 200,000; the molecular weight is preferably 75 to 50,000 Dalton, and very preferably 75 to 20,000 Dalton.
According to the present invention, protein hydrolysates of vegetable, animal origin, marine or synthetic origin, can be used.
Animal protein hydrolysates include protein hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), Sericin (Pentapharm), and Kerasol® (Croda).
Protein hydrolysates are present in agents according to the present invention, for example, in concentrations from 0.01 wt % to 20 wt %, preferably from 0.05 wt % to 15 wt %, and very preferably in amounts from 0.05 wt % to 5 wt %, based on total application preparation.
The agent according to the present invention can further contain at least one vitamin, provitamin, vitamin precursor, and/or derivative thereof as a care-providing substance.
Those vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F, and H are preferred.
The group of substances referred to as “vitamin A” includes retinal (vitamin A₁) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A₂). β-Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Vitamin A components that are appropriate according to the present invention include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol, as well as esters thereof such as the palmitate and acetate. The agents contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1 wt % based on total application preparation.
Members of the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex are, among others, vitamin B₁(thiamine), vitamin B₂(riboflavin), vitamin B₃(nicotinic acid and/or nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide)), vitamin B₅(pantothenic acid, panthenol, and pantolactone), vitamin B_B(pyroxidine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, particularly α-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and/or linolenic acid), vitamin H.
Agents according to the present invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives, as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin, are particularly preferred.
D-panthenol is very particularly preferably used as a care-providing substance, optionally in combination with at least one of the silicone derivatives recited above.
Like the addition of glycerol and/or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol also increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed upon use of the agent according to the present invention. If a particularly flexible hold is desired, the agents can contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and/or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents contain panthenol, preferably in an amount from 0.05 to 10 wt %, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt %, based on total agent.
Agents according to the present invention can also contain at least one plant extract as a care-providing substance.
These extracts are usually produced by extraction of the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it can be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from blossoms and/or leaves of the plant.
According to the present invention, preferred extracts are from green tea, oak bark, nettle, hamamelis, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossoms, almond, aloe vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, salvia, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's-smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, restharrow, coltsfoot, hibiscus, meristem, ginseng, and ginger root.
It may also be preferred to use mixtures of several, particularly two different plant extracts in agents according to the present invention.
Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care-providing substance in agents according to the present invention.
Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, for example, raw sugar, milk sugar, and raffinose, can be used. Use of monosaccharides is preferred. Among the monosaccharides, those compounds having 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.
Suitable pentoses and hexoses include ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are carbohydrates that are preferably used. It is very preferred to use glucose, which is suitable in the D-(+) or L-(−) configuration or as a racemate.
Derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding -onic and -uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols, and glycosides, can also be used. Preferred sugar acids are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, saccharic acid, mannosaccharic acid, and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol, and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.
Because mono- or oligosaccharides that are used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they exhibit configurations corresponding to those raw materials (e.g., D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).
Mono- and/or oligosaccharides are present in the agents preferably in an amount from 0.1 to 8 wt %, more preferably from 1 to 5 wt %, based on total application preparation.
The agent can also contain at least one lipid as a care-providing substance.
Lipids suitable according to the present invention are phospholipids, for example, soy lecithin, egg lecithin, and kephalins, as well as the substances known by the INCI names Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, and Stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate. These are marketed, for example, by the Mona company under the commercial designations Phospholipid EFA®, Phospholipid PTC®, and Phospholipid SV®. The agents contain lipids preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt %, particularly 0.1 to 5 wt %, based on total application preparation.
Oily substances are also suitable as a care-providing substance.
Included among the natural and synthetic cosmetic oily substances are, for example:

- Vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach-kernel oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil. Also suitable are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid components of beef tallow, as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
- Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, and synthetic hydrocarbons, as well as di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms (e.g., di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether, and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, as well as di-tert-butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether, and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether). The compounds 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE), available as commercial products, can be preferred.
- Ester oils. “Ester oils” are esters of C₆to C₃₀fatty acids with C₂to C₃₀fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Particularly preferred according to the present invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).
- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, and diisotridecyl acelaate, as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di-(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate.
- Symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, described for example, in German Patent Application No. 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate, or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC).
- Fatty acid triesters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol.
- Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are monoglycerides, diglycerides, and industrial mixtures thereof. When industrial products are used, small quantities of triglycerides can still be present for manufacturing-related reasons. Partial glycerides preferably conform to formula (D4-I):

- wherein R¹, R²and R³are, mutually independently, hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the provision that at least one of these is an acyl residue and at least one of these is hydrogen. The sum (m+n+q) is 0 or a number from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably R¹is an acyl residue and R²and R³are hydrogen, and the sum (m+n+q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and/or diglycerides based on hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, as well as industrial mixtures thereof. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.

The amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oily substances used in agents according to the present invention is usually from 0.1 to 30 wt %, based on total application preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt %, and in particular 0.1 to 15 wt %.
Although each of the above care-providing substances already yields a satisfactory result of itself, all embodiments wherein the agent contains multiple care-providing substances, including from different groups, are also included within the scope of the present invention.
The addition of a UV filter allows both the preparations and the treated fibers to be protected from damaging influences of UV radiation. At least one UV filter is therefore preferably added to cosmetic agents according to the present invention. Suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions in terms of their structure and physical properties. Instead, all UV filters usable in the cosmetics sector whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315 to 400 nm) UVB (280 to 315 nm), or UVC (<280 nm) regions, are suitable. UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB region, particularly from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
UV filters preferred according to the present invention include substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
The UV filters are present usually in amounts from 0.01 to 5 wt %, based on total application preparation. Quantities from 0.1 to 2.5 wt % are preferred.
In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic agent also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the keratinic fibers treated using the agent to be not only temporarily structured, but also dyed at the same time. This can be particularly desirable when only a temporary coloration is desired, for example, with conspicuous “fashion” colors which can be removed from the keratinic fibers simply by washing.
Substantive dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are compounds known by the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57:1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2′-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1-(2′-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4-(2′-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2′-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2′-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and salts thereof, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. It is preferred to use cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred in this context are:

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, and Basic Violet 14;
(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, and Basic Brown 17; and
(c) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as recited in European Patent Application No. 998 908, particularly in claims 6 to 11.

Dyes also known as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c). Cationic substantive dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor® are likewise very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes.
Agents according to the present invention according to this embodiment contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount from 0.001 to 20 wt %, based on total agent.
It is preferred that agents according to the present invention be free of oxidizing dye precursor products. Oxidizing dye precursor products are divided into developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen, or by coupling with one or more coupler components.
Agents according to the present invention can be formulated in any form usual for styling agents, for example, as solutions that can be applied onto the hair as a hair lotion or as a pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels, or also surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for application to the hair.
Hair creams and hair gels generally contain structuring agents and/or thickening polymers which impart the desired consistency to the products. Structuring agents and/or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount from 0.1 to 10 wt %, based on total product. Quantities from 0.5 to 5 wt %, particularly 0.5 to 3 wt %, are preferred.
Agents according to the present invention are preferably packaged as a pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam, or aerosol foam.
Here, agents according to the present invention are packaged in a delivery apparatus that is either a pressurized-gas container additionally filled with a propellant (“aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
Pressurized-gas containers by which a product is distributed through a valve as a result of the internal gas pressure of the container are “aerosol containers.” A “non-aerosol container” is, conversely to the “aerosol” definition, a vessel under standard pressure by which a product is distributed by mechanical action by a pump system.
Agents according to the present invention are particularly preferably packaged as an aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
Propellants suitable according to the present invention include N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂, air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane, and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof are preferred.
In a preferred embodiment, the aforesaid alkanes, mixtures of the aforesaid alkanes, or mixtures of the aforesaid alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as the only propellant. The invention also expressly includes, however, concurrent use of chlorofluorocarbon propellants, particularly fluorocarbons.
For a given spray apparatus, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be adjusted by the quantitative ratio between the propellant and the other ingredients of the preparations.
The amount of propellant used varies as a function of the specific composition of the agent, the packaging used, and the desired type of product (e.g., hair spray or hair foam). When conventional spray apparatuses are used, aerosol foam products contain propellant preferably in amounts from 1 to 35 wt %, based on total product. Quantities from 2 to 30 wt %, particularly from 3 to 15 wt %, are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger quantities of propellant. Here, the propellant is preferably used in an amount from 30 to 98 wt %, based on total product. Quantities from 40 to 95 wt %, particularly 50 to 95 wt %, are particularly preferred.
Aerosol products can be manufactured in usual fashion. All ingredients of the particular agent except for the propellant are introduced into a suitable pressure-tight container. The latter is then sealed with a valve. Lastly, the desired amount of propellant is introduced using conventional techniques.
Isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant for foaming gel-type agents in a two-chamber aerosol container and is incorporated into agents according to the present invention and packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. Packaged in the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container is at least one further propellant different from isopentane that builds up in the two-chamber aerosol container a higher pressure than the isopentane. Propellants of the second chamber are preferably chosen from N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂, air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (e.g., propane, n-butane, isobutane), and mixtures thereof.
A preferred embodiment is aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays containing the agent according to the present invention described previously and at least one propellant.
Preferred agents and propellants of the aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to the statements already made above.
A second subject of the invention is use of agents according to the present invention for temporary deformation of hair and/or for hair care.
Agents according to the present invention and products containing these agents, particularly aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays, are notable in particular in that they impart a very strong, durable hairstyle hold to the treated hair, even though the hair remains flexible. If the agent is packaged as hair foam, a stable, fine-pored, and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed onto the hair evenly and without dripping.
A third subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, particularly human hair, wherein, using a delivery apparatus, an agent according to the first subject of the invention is foamed into a foam and the resulting foam is applied onto the keratin-containing fibers.
It is preferred that a shape is imparted to the keratin-containing fibers and that the shape is fixed in place by the agent of the first subject of the invention.
Those discharge apparatuses recited earlier (see above) are considered preferred according to the present invention.
A fourth subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, particularly human hair, wherein, using a delivery apparatus, an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied as a spray onto the keratin-containing fibers.
It is preferred that a shape is imparted to the keratin-containing fibers, and that the shape is fixed in place by the agent of the first subject of the invention.
Those discharge apparatuses recited earlier (see above) are considered preferred according to the present invention.
The Examples that follow are intended to explain the subject matter of the present invention without in any way limiting it.

EXAMPLES

Unless otherwise defined, the quantitative indications are measured as percentage by weight. The following formulations of Tables 1 and 2 were manufactured:

TABLE 1

A	B	C	D	E	F	G	H	I

HPS 1¹	4.0	5.0	4.5	3.0	6.0	3.5	5.5	6.5	5.0
PVP/VA²	—	—	—	5.0	—	—	4.0	—	—
Polyvinylpyrrolidone	—	—	—	—	0.5	—	1.0	—	—
Polyquaternium-4	0.5	0.2	—	0.2	—	—	0.8	—	—
Polyquaternium-55	—	—	—	—	—	1.0	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-11	—	1.5	—	—	2.0	—	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-69	2.0	—	—	—	—	0.3	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-68	—	—	2.0	—	—	—	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-16	—	—	—	—	1.0	—	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-46	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	8.0
Styleze CC-10	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	1.0	—
Cetyltrimethyl-	0.2	0.2	0.2	0.1	0.2	0.1	0.1	0.2	0.2
ammonium chloride
Ethanol	10.0	—	—	15.0	—	10.0	—	—	5.0

Water	to 100

TABLE 2

J	K	L	M	N	O	P	Q	R

HPS 2³	4.0	5.0	4.5	3.0	6.0	3.5	5.5	6.5	5.0
PVP/VA²	—	—	—	5.0	—	—	4.0	—	—
Polyvinylpyrrolidone	—	—	—	—	0.5	—	1.0	—	—
Polyquaternium-4	0.5	0.2	—	0.2	—	—	0.8	—	—
Polyquaternium-55	—	—	—	—	—	1.0	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-11	—	1.5	—	—	2.0	—	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-69	2.0	—	—	—	—	0.3	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-68	—	—	2.0	—	—	—	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-16	—	—	—	—	1.0	—	—	—	—
Polyquaternium-46	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	8.0
Styleze CC-10	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	1.0	—
Cetyltrimethyl-	0.2	0.2	0.2	0.1	0.2	0.1	0.1	0.2	0.2
ammonium chloride
Ethanol	10.0	—	—	15.0	—	10.0	—	—	5.0

Water	to 100

¹Potato starch modified with propylene oxide (propylene oxide content: 10.0 wt %; viscosity: 64,000 mPa · s; weight average range: 700 to 900 kDa)
²Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
³Potato starch modified with propylene oxide (propylene oxide content: 5.0 wt %; viscosity: 64,000 mPa · s; weight average range: 700 to 900 kDa)

Formulations A to R were each placed into an aerosol container that meets the following technical parameters: aluminum reservoir container with valve (product 522983 PV10697 of the Precision company (Deutsche Päzisions-Ventil GmbH).
The aerosol container was filled with a propellant gas mixture of propane/butane (47 wt % propane, 50 wt % butane, 3 wt % isobutane), yielding a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.
All the formulations, after use on the hair, produced an increase in volume as well as an outstandingly flexible hairstyle hold. The hair received very good care. The formulations were applied as a high-volume aerosol foam that breaks significantly only while being used on the hair.

Claims

1. Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier:

at least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide, and

at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer.

2. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified nonionic starch is a nonionic tapioca starch modified with propylene oxide, a nonionic potato starch modified with propylene oxide, or a mixture thereof.

3. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified nonionic starch is present in an amount from 0.1 wt % to 10 wt %, based on total weight of the agent.

4. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified nonionic starch has, in a 43-wt % aqueous solution, a viscosity in a range from 150 to 1,500,000 mPa·s, based on Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at 20° C. and 20 rpm.

5. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified nonionic starch has an average molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa.

6. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified nonionic starch has a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, based on total weight of the modified starch.

7. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified nonionic starch is at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide.

8. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymers are present in an amount of from 0.1 wt % to 20.0 wt %, based on total weight of the agent.

9. Agent according to claim 1 further comprising at least one additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural element of formula (M1)

wherein

R″ is a (C₁to C₄) alkyl group, and

further comprising at least one further cationic and/or nonionic structural element.

10. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymers are chosen from at least one cationic quaternized cellulose derivative.

11. Agent according to claim 1 further comprising at least one additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (M5), at least one structural unit of formula (V), and optionally at least one structural unit of formula (VI)

wherein

R¹and R⁴are, mutually independently, a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

A¹and A²are, mutually independently, an ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl, or butane-1,4-diyl group,

R², R³, R⁵, and R⁶are, mutually independently, a (C₁to C₄) alkyl group,

R⁷is a (C₈to C₃₀) alkyl group.

12. Agent according to claim 1 further comprising at least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer.

13. Agent according to claim 12, wherein the at least nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer is chosen from:

polyvinylpyrrolidone, and

copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms.

14. Agent according to claim 1, wherein the agent is in the form of an aerosol foam or aerosol spray.