EP2490658A1

EP2490658A1 - Composition for shaping keratin fibres containing starches modified with propylene oxide

Info

Publication number: EP2490658A1
Application number: EP10771422A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Matthias Schweinsberg; Ralf RÖNISCH; Mathias Schriefers; Lydiane Huet; Carine Dogan; Thorsten Knappe
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-10-22
Filing date: 2010-10-21
Publication date: 2012-08-29
Also published as: WO2011048172A2; US20120207694A1; US20120328532A1; EP2490657B1; EP2490656B1; EP2490659B1; EP2490653B1; EP2490656A1; WO2011048178A1; WO2011048175A1; US20120207693A1; WO2011048172A3; EP2490659A1; US8603447B2; WO2011048177A1; EP2490653A2; EP2490657A1; WO2011048176A1; US20120213724A1; US20120207692A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic products for temporarily deforming keratin fibres, containing, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one starch modified with propylene oxide and having an average molecular weight (weight average) of between 50 and 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of between 4 and 6 wt. % (in relation to the weight of the starch modified with propylene oxide), said products enabling a hairstyle with a strong hold and high flexibility. Said starches modified with propylene oxide are based on renewable raw materials. In this way, effective styling products for hair can be provided, without having to exclusively use fixing polymers of fossil fuels.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR FORMING KERATIN FIBERS

CONTAINING STRENGTH MODIFIED WITH PROPYLENE OXIDE

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one propylene oxide-modified starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6 wt .-% (relative on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).

Temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes, however, are usually not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The synthetic polymers commonly used in temporary shaping agents are prepared from corresponding synthetically available monomers. Said monomers are derived from fossil materials such as petroleum by conversion to the corresponding polymer building blocks i.a. gained under the expense of energy.

As part of a more sustainable approach to nature as a habitat and with the

Resources, it is desirable to use for cosmetic products only those cosmetic raw materials, with the least possible use of energy from so-called

renewable raw materials are accessible. However, a reduction in quantity or even an exchange of said synthetic polymers can be made only if the replacement has the desired properties for the intended use and the keratin-containing fibers ensure a sufficient, stable hold form.

Furthermore, the replacement polymers on a natural basis, the bounce and

Suppleness of the fixed in the form, keratin-containing fibers. The formation of visible to the naked eye polymer particles on the keratin fibers must be avoided. Furthermore, the keratin-containing fiber must not look dull, but should of course shine.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a shape-fixing, cosmetic composition which effects an improved or equivalent shape fixation and does not have the aforementioned disadvantages. It should be possible to dispense partially or as completely as possible with the use of synthetic polymers based on fossil raw materials.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for temporary

Forming keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one propylene oxide-modified starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6 Wt .-% (based on the weight of propylene oxide modified starch) has. These agents have excellent parameters in hair application. The said strength can be almost without the use of heat at a maximum of 30 ° C by mere mixing in the

incorporate agents according to the invention.

According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

Starch is a reserve carbohydrate which is stored by many plants in the form of usually 1 to 200 μιη large starch granules (granules) in different plant parts, e.g. in tubers or roots, cereal seeds, fruits and in the marrow. A propylene oxide-modified starch which can be used according to the invention can be derived from starch from potatoes, maize, rice, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, barley, rye, beans, sweet potatoes, maranta or manioc , Particularly pronounced effects according to the invention are achieved by corresponding tapioca starch modified with propylene oxide or potato starch modified with propylene oxide or by mixtures of the two aforementioned starches. It is very particularly preferred according to the invention as

to use corresponding propylene oxide modified starch with propylene oxide modified potato starch.

Starch belongs to the family of homoglycans and is a polycondensation product of D-glucose. In this case, starch consists of three structurally different polymers of d-glucopyranose, namely amylose, amylopectin and a so-called intermediate fraction. Higher plants contain 0 to 45 wt .-% amylose based on the dry matter.

The intermediate fraction, also referred to as abnormal amylopectin, is structurally related between the amylose and the amylopectin. The amounts specified for amylopectin in this application include the intermediate fraction.

It is inventively preferred if the modified propylene oxide with a starch

Amylose content of less than 25 wt .-%, in particular less than 20 wt .-%, - in each case based on the wipe of said starch - has. It was found that particularly suitable for achieving the effect of the invention is a starch containing 17 to 22 wt .-% amylose and 78 to 83 wt .-% amylopectin.

Amylose consists of predominantly linear α-1, 4-glycosidically linked d-glucose, M _r 50000-150000. The resulting chains form double helices in the starch.

Amylopectin contains in addition to the a-1, 4-linkages described for amylose also in an amount of 4 to 6% a-1, 6 bonds as branching sites. The average distance between the branching sites is about 12 to 17 glucose units. The molecular weight of 10 ⁷ to 7 ^■ 10 ⁸ corresponds to about 10 ⁵ glucose units, making amylopectin to the largest

Biopolymers heard. Said branches are distributed throughout the molecule such that a tuft structure with relatively short side chains develops. Two of these side chains form each a double helix. Due to the many branching points amylopectin is relatively soluble in water.

A starch modified with propylene oxide is understood according to the invention to mean a reaction product of a starch with propylene oxide. Such a reaction product comprises at least one ormel (I),

(I)

wherein at least one radical R, R 'or R "is a group of the formula with n> 0

and a maximum of 2 of the radicals R, R ', R "represents a hydrogen atom A bond marked in the formulas of this application corresponds to a free valency of the corresponding structural unit Prior to modification by means of propylene oxide, the starch may have been subjected to various physical or chemical processes, such as heat treatment, shearing, thermal, acid hydrolysis, oxidative or enzymatic cleavage, etc.

It is preferred according to the invention if the starch modified with propylene oxide is not present in the composition according to the invention in the form of individual starch granules (granules). For this purpose, the starch granules are disrupted, e.g. released by heat or shear and the corresponding polysaccharide molecules from the composite. The released

Polysaccharide molecules are modified after or before release with propylene oxide.

In a preferred embodiment, the propoxylated starch is gelatinized. If an aqueous suspension of starch is heated or compressed, a tangential swelling of the bodies at a critical temperature or pressure is observed with loss of birefringence, change in the X-ray structure and abrupt increase in the viscosity of the solution. This phenomenon is called gelatinization.

The novel propylene oxide-modified starches are present in the agent according to the invention in a molecular weight distribution. The molecular weight distribution was determined experimentally by means of gel filtration chromatography against dextran. An important feature of the invention is the weight-average molecular weight of the propylene oxide-modified starches present in the composition according to the invention. That said

Weight average is an average molecular weight which is the total weight of the molecules different molecular weight and not just the number of molecules. For the statistical calculation of the weight average, first the "weight fraction"

W \ = (Λ / | Mi) / [Σ (/ νϊ Mi)]

Are defined. This indicates the proportion by weight of macromolecules in the sample, which consists of; ^'

Segments (eg monomer building blocks) of mass M, exist and occur in the sample N-ma \. For the weight-average molecular weight M _w = Σνν, M, it holds true

M _w = [Σ (/ νϊ M ² i)] / [Σ (/ νϊ Mi)].

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain those propylene oxide-modified starches which have an average molecular weight (weight average) of from 100 to 2000 kDa, in particular from 500 to 1800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the propylene oxide-modified starch is uncrosslinked. Crosslinking of the propylene oxide-modified starch is present when the linear or branched polysaccharide macromolecules of the starch covalently through a

Crosslinking agents are linked to form a three-dimensional, insoluble and only swellable polymeric network. Native strength is generally considered uncrosslinked and, if networking is desired, requires artificial networking

Synthetic chemistry. Such artificial crosslinking can be carried out with crosslinking agents such as epichlorohydrin. (Propylene oxide modified) starches which do not have such crosslinking are uncrosslinked.

To obtain a lower molecular weight, e.g. from 100 to 400 kDa, or 200 to 300 kDa, are said strengths of a mechanical cleavage, an enzymatic cleavage (in particular with alpha-amylase, beta-amylase, glucoamylase or debranching enzymes), an acid hydrolysis cleavage (especially with hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or

Phosphoric acid), thermal cleavage or reaction with oxidizing agents (such as periodate, hypochlorite, chromic acid, permanganate, nitrogen dioxide, hydrogen peroxide or organic percarboxylic acid, preferably with hydrogen peroxide). Kneaders, extruders, stator / rotor machines and / or agitators are suitable for the mechanical splitting of the starch.

The oxidative cleavage by means of hydrogen peroxide is preferred. For this purpose, for example, the propylene oxide-modified starch is added to water, heated to 50 to 70 ° C, added hydrogen peroxide and stirred at 70 to 85 ° C for 2 to 5 hours.

The content of propylene oxide of starch affects the hairstyle and hairstyle flexibility, as well as the stability of the cosmetic products. It has surprisingly been found that optimum application parameters are obtained when the propylene oxide-modified starch, based on the weight of said starch, has the propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight. The propylene oxide content can be determined, for example, after carrying out a Hodges cleavage with the method according to DIN EN 13268. Furthermore, it has been found that such cosmetic compositions are outstandingly suitable for the purposes of the invention in which the propylene oxide-modified starch is dissolved in a 43% strength by weight solution in water (ie a 43% strength by weight aqueous solution). has a viscosity in the range of 150 to 1500,000 mPa s (Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 U / min). Excellently suitable propylene oxide-modified polysaccharides have viscosities of from 3000 to 200,000 mPa.s, in particular from 10,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, very particularly preferably from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s (measured in each case under the abovementioned conditions).

It is preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic agent is the propylene oxide-modified polysaccharide in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 2 wt .-% to 6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition contains.

The agents according to the invention preferably comprise foams or gels as cosmetic carriers and are therefore preferably present as foam or gel. With the said strengths can be achieved an excellent consolidation. Furthermore, the gels prepared with said starches additionally achieve a soft transparency.

Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention obey at least one of the following embodiments A) to R):

A):

Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.

B):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.

C):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

D): Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

E):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

F):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

G):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified tapioca starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6 weight percent (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.

H) :

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified tapioca starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) having.

I):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified tapioca starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 Wt .-% - aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).

J):

Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of the propylene oxide-modified starch) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43 wt .-% aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).

K):

Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt .-% aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).

L):

Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of the propylene oxide-modified starch) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43 wt .-% aqueous solution, Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rev / min).

M):

Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified potato starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).

N):

Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked, propylene oxide-modified potato starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch). O):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

P):

human hair comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

Q):

human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 3000 to 200,000 mPas (in 43 wt.% aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

R):

human hair comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one uncrosslinked propylene oxide modified potato starch having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1000 kDa, a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight (based on the weight of the propylene oxide modified starch ) and a viscosity of 10,000 to 100,000 mPas (in 43% by weight aqueous solution, Brookfield Viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 rpm).

In the context of the abovementioned embodiments, of course, mutatis mutandis the respective features of the agent according to the invention characterized as preferred, in particular the quantities used, apply.

In addition to the modified with propylene oxide starch (in particular to those with

Propylene oxide modified according to embodiments A) to R)) contains the Cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one polymer selected from film-forming polymers or setting polymers. In this way, for example, a fine-tuning of the deformation result and the care of the fibers can be achieved. These additional polymers are different from the propylene oxide modified starches and may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic, or temporarily cationic (preferably nonionic, permanent cationic, or temporarily cationic).

According to the invention, polymers are understood as meaning compounds which are made up of a large number of molecules in which one or more types of atoms or

Atomic groupings (so-called constitutive units, basic building blocks or

Repeating units) are repeatedly lined up and have a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol. The polymers are obtained by polyreaction, the latter being synthetic (i.e., synthetic) or natural.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner.

Under film-forming polymers continue to be understood as those polymers which in

Application in 0.01 to 20 wt .-% - aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solution capable of depositing on the hair a transparent polymer film.

Hair-setting polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

The additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives. In general, such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.

Of these, among the cationic cellulose derivatives are those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants. Among these cationic celluloses are in turn such cationic celluloses the INCI name Polyquaternium-4, which are sold, for example, under the names Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 from the company National Starch.

Also suitable are those additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-VI) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M-V)

wherein

R and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, A and A ² independently of one another represent a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or

Butane-1, 4-diyl,

RR ²² , RR ³³ , RR ⁵⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (M-VI) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Suitable compounds are, for example, as

Copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1, under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 1 1 PN (BASF SE),

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl chloride with Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^®, ^® Styleze W-20 (ISP)

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) - methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28-32 wt .-% active substance in ethanol-water mixture) (company ISP)

available in the stores. As in the context of the invention particularly preferably usable additional film-forming and / or setting polymers selected from cationic polymers containing at least one structural unit having a permanently cationized nitrogen, continue to serve such cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers containing at least one element of the formula (M1)

"(M1)

wherein R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,

and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the component are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

In turn, it is preferred according to the invention if in the cosmetic agent according to the invention additionally as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer of this embodiment, at least one copolymer (b1) is included, which comprises in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M-l)

wherein R is a (Ci to C ₄ ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (b1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (b1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and

in particular 20 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M1) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol% and in particular 80 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-I) · It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M1) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (b1) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1) where R "= methyl and (III) and can be represented by the general formula (polyl)

^{CH; 3} (polyl)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M1) and of the formula (M-1) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) used a chloride ion, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) is a methosulfate used, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) or at its place, cosmetic agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b2) starting from

) as additional structural units structural units of the formula (M-II) have

(M-II).

Further particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they additionally contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b2) which contains at least one

Structural unit according to formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit according to formula (Ml) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M-II)

Again, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (Ml) and (M-II) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-% , preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the

Copolymers (b2) exclusively from structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (M-1) and (M-II)

el (poly2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidon / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol% and in particular 40 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol% and in particular 60 mol%

Structural units according to formula (M-II).

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) and / or (b2) or at its point, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise copolymers (b3) which act as structural units as film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer Structural units of the formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units. Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (b3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (Ml) and at least a structural unit according to formula (M-VII) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M-VIII)

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b3) result not only in polymer units which result from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (III), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) into the copolymer, not more than 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (b3) are exclusively from structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M-1), (M-VII), a formula (poly3)

CH

³ (Poly3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (M-1), (M-VII) and (M-VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidonA / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (M- I) and 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol%

Structural units of the formula (M-VII) and 20 to 40 mol%, preferably 25 to 35 mol% and in particular 29 mol% of structural units of the formula (M-VIII).

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M1), the following are preferred:

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)),

VinylpyrrolidonA inylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat Hold ^® (BASF SE)),

Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H- imidazolium copolymer (such as sold under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme (with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 BASF SE)), as well as mixtures of these polymers.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as additional film-forming and / or setting polymer at least one film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer.

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15.0% by weight .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention. Again, the film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymers are preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed

Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,

nonionic copolymers of isobutene,

nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.

Here, a combination of film-forming nonionic and / or strengthening nonionic polymers is preferred, comprising at least one nonionic copolymer of the

Maleic anhydride and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

Means comprising as film-forming nonionic and / or setting nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed from

Copolymer of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether,

polyvinylpyrrolidone,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18

Carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (Ci to C ₄₎ alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄₎ - alkyl acrylamide,

or mixtures of these polymers are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

In this case, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40 ,

Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE. Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain, as nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer, at least one copolymer (n1) containing at least one structural unit of formula (M-I) and at least one structural unit of formula (M-VII ) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M-VII) contains

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if, in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) into the copolymer, these copolymers have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the

Copolymers (n1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) and can be represented by the general formula (poly4)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (I), (VII) and (VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

A particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

Furthermore, according to the invention, those pulverulent compositions which additionally comprise at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III) are suitable.

R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

X ^{1 represents} an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A is a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl

R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group.

In this case, it is particularly preferred if the above nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer is selected from at least one polymer which fulfills at least one or more of the following features:

R is a methyl group,

X ¹ stands for a group NH,

A is ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,

R ² and R ³ , independently of one another, represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl).

Particularly preferably, the additional nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer of this embodiment is at least one polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III-8),

A most preferred additional nonionic film-forming and / or

Nonionic setting polymer of this embodiment is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and Ν, Ν-dimethylaminiopropylmethacrylamide, which is sold for example with the INCI name VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer, for example under the trade name Styleze 'CC 10 from ISP. In one embodiment, those cosmetic agents containing at least one additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are preferred, provided that all of these additional polymers are polysaccharide-based polymers. These additional polymers are, of course, different from the propylene oxide modified polysaccharides. Again, preference is given to all other polymers of the cosmetic composition according to the invention selected from xanthan, dehydroxanthan, alginate, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, starch, chitosan or mixtures.

The additional filbildenden and / or setting polymers are preferably in an amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 2.5 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of By means of, included.

To improve the effects according to the invention, the further addition of at least one compound of the formula (II) is preferably suitable,

HO-CH ₂ - (CHOH) _n -CH ₂ -OH (II)

wherein n is an integer from 1 to 4.

The agents according to the invention are particularly effective if they contain glycerol and / or sorbitol as compounds of the formula (II).

Furthermore, an amount used of the compounds of formula (II) in the range of 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 7 wt .-% proved to be advantageous.

It has been found preferable to additionally use at least one nonionic surfactant. These surfactants can according to the invention already have emulsifying effect.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , Addition products of 2 to 20 units glycerol to linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, to linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those under the sales designations Dermofeel ^® G 10 LW (Straetman's Chemical Products) available types,

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon -atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis), Ci2-C _o-3 Fettsäurenriono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 , Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

Of these, in turn, such nonionic surfactants are particularly preferably suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, which are selected from

Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol to linear or branched

Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

Addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol to linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the above formula (E4-II), mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants.

The nonionic surfactants are preferably in an amount of 0.005 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition, in the inventive composition.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one plant extract. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from Produce flowers and / or leaves of the plant. Suitable plant extracts are obtained by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation. According to the invention are especially the extracts of bamboo, linseed, water lily, green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut - nuts, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. The additional plant extract is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular from 0, 1 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic product.

It is inventively preferred - especially when the agent according to the invention is formulated as a cream - that the cosmetic agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one oil phase.

According to the invention, an oil phase is understood as meaning a phase which is liquid at 20 ° C. and dissolves at 20 ° C. to less than 1 g in 100 g of water.

The oil phase preferably has a viscosity of up to 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II +, 20 ° C., 20 revolutions per minute, spindle no. 1).

In a preferred embodiment, the oil of the oil phase is selected from at least one oil of the group that is formed

vegetable oils,

animal oils,

Esterölen,

Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C ₆ - to C ₂ 2 fatty acids with glycerol.

Preferred vegetable oils are selected from at least one member of the group formed from amaranth oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sesame oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.

Preferred ester oils are selected from esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Mono, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol which are preferably usable as oil in the oil phase are in particular the triglyceride esters of capric and caprylic acids (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), for example obtainable as a commercial product Cognis under the name myritol ^® 312th

The additional oil phase is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.

Also suitable are agents according to the invention which additionally contain at least one fatty substance.

According to the invention, a fatty substance is understood as meaning those compounds which are soluble at less than 1 g at 20 ° C. in 100 g of water.

Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from at least one fatty substance of the group which is formed from candelilla wax, shea butter, carnauba wax, beeswax, coconut fat, d ₂ to C ₂ o fatty acids (in particular palmitic acid, stearic acid)

The additional fatty substance is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 35% by weight, in particular from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. contain. The agents according to the invention contain their active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, alcoholic cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. For the purpose of temporary hair shaping, such carriers are, for example, lotions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, creams, gels, foams, pomades, waxes or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol or 1, 3-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

As a conditioner, a cationic surfactant can be used. Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines are preferred. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. However, since the addition of surface-active substances can have a negative effect on the hydrophobic properties of the hydrophobized silica and thus on the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the amount of nourishing surfactant must be carefully matched to the overall composition. Preferably, the addition of surface-active constituents is dispensed with.

As a care substance, at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives can furthermore be used.

According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. Particularly preferred are vitamins belonging to the B group or to the vitamin B complex, most preferably vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).

As a care substance, a series of carboxylic acids are also suitable. In the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids may in particular be advantageous. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

Further suitable care substances are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives, wherein the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, is preferred. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching according to the invention encompasses all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates.

Furthermore, lipids and oil bodies, for example vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and ester oils, enzymes and pearl extracts are suitable as a care substance.

By adding a UV filter, both the preparations themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It may therefore be advantageous to additionally add at least one UV filter to the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. An example is here 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb ^® S 5) mentioned.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic agent according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group. Also, the use of co-amino acids such as o> aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is possible.

A second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for the temporary reshaping and / or shape fixing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers.

It has proved to be preferred if the keratinic fibers are not rinsed and left on the fiber after the action of the cosmetic compositions of the first subject of the invention.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way. Examples

All amounts given in this example section are by weight unless otherwise specified. The following recipes have been provided:

Example 1 .1: "Hair foam"

Chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis)

² Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (

³ potato starch, propylene oxide content: 4% by weight of propylene oxide, viscosity: 64000 mPas, weight average molecular weight: 800 kDa

⁴ about 32-36% active ingredient, INCI name: Amodimethicone, Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning)

⁵ trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 24-26% active ingredient; INCI name:

Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium Chloride) (Cognis)

The respective formulation components except for the blowing agent were mixed and the mixture was filled into an aerosol container meeting the following technical parameters: aluminum

Storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH). The aerosol can was closed accordingly and fed the propellant. Example 1.2: "Hair gels"

Potato starch modified with 4.5% by weight of propylene oxide; average molecular weight 800 kDa, viscosity of a 43% by weight solution in water 64000 mPas

Copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid ester and beheneth-25-methacrylic acid ester (19-21% by weight of solid in water, INCI name: Acrylates / beheneth-25-methacrylate copolymer) (Rohm and Haas)

crosslinked copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid ester and steareth-20-methacrylic acid ester (28-33% by weight solids in water, INCI name: acrylates / steareth-20-methacrylate crosspolymer) (Rohm and Haas)

Copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid ester and palmeth-25-methacrylic acid ester (30-32% by weight of solid in water, INCI name: acrylates / palmeth-25-methacrylate copolymer) (3 V Sigma)

10

Copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic ester and palmeth-25-ltaconic acid ester (30% by weight solids in water, INCI name: Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer) (3 V Sigma)

Copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic ester and steareth-20-ltaconic acid ester (30% by weight solids in water, INCI name: acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer) (3 V Sigma)

Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylene glycol (Schülke & Mayr)

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (about 20% solids in water, INCI name: PVP) (BASF)

14

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (about 20% solids in water, INCI name: PVP) (BASF)

15

4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester + 25 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA) (BASF SE) 2.0 Impact Assessment

The following propylene oxide modified starches were used:

Table 1: propylene oxide modified starches

Tapioca starch modified with 4.5-5.5 wt .-% propylene oxide

7 tapioca starch modified with 9.5-10.5 wt .-% propylene oxide

8 tapioca starch modified with 19-21 wt .-% propylene oxide

In each case 5 wt .-% - strength polymer solutions of the respective hydroxypropyl HPS A to C, of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (Luviskol ^® K 85, BASF SE.) And polyvinyl pyrrolidonVinylacetat copolymer (PVP / VA) (Luviskol ^® 64 W NP, BASF SE) in water. Curl retention measurements were then performed on hair strands treated with it. For this purpose, hair strands were examined according to the procedure described under 3.0 of the High Humidity Curl Retention Determination (HHCR).

The following results were obtained:

Table 2: Lure retention in high humidity (HHCR)

The hair strands treated with the agent according to the invention had a hairstyle that was more resistant to atmospheric moisture. Better HHCR scores and better hairstyle hold were obtained by performing the analogous experiments with appropriately modified potato starch.

3.0 Carrying out the maintenance H to id ity Cu rl retention measurement

Standardized hair strands of the company Kerling (Art. No. 827560) of the hair type "European Natural, Color 6/0" of a length (L _max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 0.6 g used. For preparation, the strands were washed with a 12.5 wt .-% sodium laurethsulphat solution. The hair strands were dried overnight in a drying oven at 318K.

0.18 g of the compositions were applied to one strand of hair and massaged. The tress was then wound on a winder (Fripac-medis, 0 7mm, Art. No. D-1203) and dried overnight at room temperature.

The winder was carefully removed and the tress hung. The lengths of the curls were each measured (L ₀ ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they were stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 24 h and then measured again the lengths of the curls (L _t ).

Per test 5 test strands were treated and measured accordingly.

The high-humidity curl retention (HHCR) was calculated according to the following formula and for each composition the arithmetic mean was calculated from the HHCR values of the 5 test strands:

HCR = ^{Zmax ~ L} '

Claims

Patent claims

1. Cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one propylene oxide-modified starch having a weight-average molecular weight of 50 to 2500 kDa and a propylene oxide content of 4 to 6% by weight ( based on the weight of propylene oxide-modified starch).

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the propylene oxide modified starch is gelatinized.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the propylene oxide-modified starch is uncrosslinked.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to 3, characterized in that the propylene oxide-modified starch has an average molecular weight (weight average) of 100 to 2000 kDa, in particular from 500 to 1800 kDa, particularly preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa ,, has.

5. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the polysaccharide modified with propylene oxide in a 43 wt .-% - solution in water has a viscosity in the range of 150 to 1500,000 mPa s, preferably from 3000 to 200,000 mPa s, more preferably from 10,000 to 100,000 mPa s, most preferably from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa s, (Brookfield viscometer, spindle # 7 at 20 ° C and 20 U / min).

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the propylene oxide-modified starch is a propylene oxide-modified tapioca starch or a propylene oxide-modified potato starch or a mixture of both aforementioned starches.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the propylene oxide-modified starch in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, most preferably from 2 wt .-% to 6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition is included.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that further at least one additional polymer selected from film-forming polymers or setting polymers, is contained,.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that additionally at least one compound of the formula (II) is contained,

HO-CH ₂ - (CHOH) _n -CH ₂ -OH (II)

wherein n is an integer from 1 to 4.

10. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one propellant.

1 1. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for the temporary transformation and / or shape fixation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

12. A method for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the keratinic fibers.