EP2451530A2 - Agent pour fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins une cellulose spéciale et au moins un polymère supplémentaire filmogène et/ou fixateur - Google Patents

Agent pour fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins une cellulose spéciale et au moins un polymère supplémentaire filmogène et/ou fixateur

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Publication number
EP2451530A2
EP2451530A2 EP09772307A EP09772307A EP2451530A2 EP 2451530 A2 EP2451530 A2 EP 2451530A2 EP 09772307 A EP09772307 A EP 09772307A EP 09772307 A EP09772307 A EP 09772307A EP 2451530 A2 EP2451530 A2 EP 2451530A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
polymers
hair
composition according
chr
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP09772307A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Burkhard Müller
Pamela Kaftan
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2451530A2 publication Critical patent/EP2451530A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one specific cellulose with at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, the use of these agents for temporary deformation and / or care keratin inconveniencer fibers and aerosol hair foams based on these agents.
  • all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component.
  • Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
  • hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • compositions for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers also referred to below as styling agent
  • styling agent The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent.
  • the hairstyle is essentially determined by the type and amount of used but may also be an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent.
  • styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broad in properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.
  • the polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • the polymers when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.
  • Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold or by a high care effect and in particular excellent handling during application to the keratin fibers has.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) -alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, where R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C 1 to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
  • such celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention which, according to formula (I), as R independently of one another, is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an isopropyl group, a group.
  • Particularly preferred agents include those celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (I), according to which R is independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a group -CH 2 CHMe- (O-CH 2 CHMe) q -OH, where q is a is an integer, with the proviso that at least one of R represents a methyl group and at least one of R represents a group -CH 2 CHMe- (O-CH 2 CHMe) q -OH.
  • a very particularly preferably suitable cellulose is hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose sold under the trade name Tegocel ® from Evonik example, as Tegocel ® HPM 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder), Tegocel ® HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder), Tegocel ® fluid HPM 50 (INCI Name: Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) and Tegocel ® fluid HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose) is sold.
  • Tegocel ® HPM 50 INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder
  • Tegocel ® HPM 4000 INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprising the celluloses having at least one structural unit of the formula (I) defined above in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably of 0.05% by weight to 5 , 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt.%, In each case based on the weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention in all its embodiments, preferably have a viscosity of at most 10,000 mPas, preferably not more than 5000 mPas, particularly preferably of a maximum of 2500 mPas (both measured at 2O 0 C with a Brookfield viscometer, Spindle 5, 10 rpm).
  • this preferred viscosity adjustment proves to be particularly advantageous as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as a pump foam or even more advantageously as an aerosol foam.
  • Pumping and in particular aerosol foams which are produced from the agents according to the invention have a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam over a longer period of time, which can be dispensed excellently and can be uniformly distributed in the hair simply and without running down.
  • the agent according to the invention contains, in addition to the previously defined celluloses, at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • film-forming and / or setting polymers additionally contained in the composition according to the invention are, by definition, different from the polymers having at least one structural unit of the previously defined formula (I).
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • composition of the invention preferably comprises at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, most preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention. If differing preferred quantities have been specified below, the latter are considered to be even more preferred amounts.
  • compositions which contain, in addition to the previously defined betaine compound, at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which is selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers (in particular homopolymers of the group) N-vinylpyrrolidones, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate), nonionic cellulose derivatives, starch and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic Copolymers of 3- (C 1 -C 6 ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylam
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -acyl group
  • R "and R” independently represent a (Ci to C 7 ) -alkyl group or a
  • R '" represents a linear or branched (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -
  • Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide , Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers from (Ci to C 3 ) alkyl groups are selected.
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units wherein
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
  • agents are therefore particularly preferred according to the invention, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) -alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, where R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C 1 to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
  • the already defined preferred representatives of the celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra) are also preferred.
  • the viscosity of the agent according to the invention previously defined as preferred also applies as preferred (vide supra) for the particular embodiments mentioned above.
  • nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable for use as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (e.g., under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® AQUALON) and Natrosol ® - Types (Hercules) are distributed. If cellulose derivatives which have a strongly thickening action are used, care should again be taken in the context of a preferred embodiment as foam that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion of the agents according to the invention is observed.
  • cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) -alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, wherein
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (Ci to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
  • component (a) with the cationic polymers (b) keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, surprisingly (in addition to the outstanding properties in terms of manageability, the hairstyle content and the achieved volume) undergo improved care.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Homopolymers of the general formula (M 1) described above in which R 2 is -H or -CH 3 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are independently selected from (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl-, (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkenyl or (C 2 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X "is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting in Substantially suitable monomeric units which are listed in formula (M 1) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferably suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R 2 is a methyl group, R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, m is 2 or 3.
  • physiologically acceptable counterions X 'of the formula (M 1) are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, Methosulfationen and organic ions such as Lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions into consideration. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • the already defined preferred representatives of the celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) are also preferred.
  • the viscosity of the agent according to the invention previously defined as preferred also applies as preferred (vide supra) for the particular embodiments mentioned above.
  • a highly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (Ethnichem), for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH are commercially available.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers of quaternized derivatives of the dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate and / or copolymers of quaternized derivatives of the dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylamide are particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (M 1) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1. 4- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C- ⁇ - 4 -alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers, in where the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, strength nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92 are commercially available as approximately 50%.
  • agents which are particularly preferred are those which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, wherein R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C 1 to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ', R "and R” independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 20 ) -alkyl group
  • X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, n is 1 or 3.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • agents which are particularly preferred are those which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, wherein R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C 1 to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and (B) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from the group of cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 ® by the company National Starch.
  • Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M11)
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.
  • agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are considered to be particularly preferred
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, wherein R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group is m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (Ci to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH means that n means an integer greater than zero, and
  • R is a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • the already defined preferred representatives of the celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) are also preferred.
  • the viscosity of the agent according to the invention previously defined as preferred also applies as preferred (vide supra) for the particular embodiments mentioned above.
  • Including vinylpyrrolidone / i-vinyl-S-methyl-I H-imidazolium chloride copolymers are (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552 (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care (BASF SE) / ), vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care or Luviquat ® Hold (BASF SE)), vinyl
  • cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • Chitosans include, for example, chitosans.
  • Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention.
  • agents according to the invention are therefore very particularly preferred, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, wherein R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C 1 to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.
  • chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • bases Preferably For example, those types having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5,000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content are used of less than 0.3% by weight.
  • chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers
  • cationically derivatized chitosans such as, for example, quaternization products
  • alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable for the purposes of the invention.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
  • chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
  • Suitable chitosan are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ® NB / commercially 101 freely available.
  • Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis)
  • the chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the already defined preferred representatives of the celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) are also preferred for this embodiment of the invention.
  • the previously defined preferred viscosity of the agent according to the invention is also considered to be preferred for this embodiment (vide supra).
  • suitable temporary cationic polymers are also those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M 1-1) to (M 1-8) (M 1-4)
  • n 1 or 3.
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (available under the trade name Gaffix ® VC 713 ISP)), Vinylpyrrolidon ⁇ / inylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ® SF-40 (ISP)),
  • ISP Aquaflex ® SF-40
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)), Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylnethacrylannicl-copolynner (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)), as a preferred list for selection.
  • INCI name vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer
  • alcohol lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)
  • Formula (I), (b1) at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing
  • (b2) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer.
  • compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -SO 3 ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • an inventively amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • Amphomer ® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • zwitterionic polymers have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.
  • preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N ( + ) R 3 R 4 R 5 A " ( Z ) )
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R, R and R independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A "is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),
  • R 6 -CH CR 7 -COOH (Z-II) in which R ° and R 'are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (Z-I) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A () is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate -Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (Z-II).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (Z-II) for the stated polymers.
  • Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.
  • the monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents.
  • the quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.
  • those monomers of the formula (Z-I) are used, which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (Z-I) in which R, R ⁇ and R ⁇ are methyl groups.
  • the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).
  • Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.
  • the amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • At least one anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • anionic polymers are selected from the group which is formed from copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (such as, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60 wt % dispersion in isopropanol-water), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ® Soft having an acid number of 84 to 105 under the INCI name Acrylates copolymer in an approximately 20 to 30 wt.
  • copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid such as, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60 wt % dispersion in isopropanol-water
  • copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid
  • Polyurethane with at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as it is available under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI -% dispersion in water).
  • Designation Polyurethane-1 is sold by BASF SE).
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle.
  • the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes.
  • the surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
  • the additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.
  • agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) -alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, where R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C 1 to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants.
  • Preparations with excellent Properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene oxide in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide
  • linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50 which are marketed as Eumulgin ® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ® CS 50 (Cognis).
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, wherein R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , an ethyl group or an n-
  • Propyl group is m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (Ci to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH means that n means an integer greater than zero, and
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen Alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (EMI)
  • R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (EMI) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  • R 8 CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide ether carboxylic acids, condensation products of C 8 -C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also the cocoacyl aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamid
  • Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 acylsarcosine.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11.
  • the pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
  • the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling.
  • auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
  • a care material for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives.
  • silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone.
  • These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group.
  • those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess and Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.).
  • the raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin.
  • sericin holds this double thread together.
  • Silk consists of 70 - 80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.
  • Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin eg.
  • soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda) , hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.
  • the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
  • the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
  • the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
  • these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.
  • UV filters By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation.
  • at least one UV filter is added to the agent.
  • the inventively preferred UV filters can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p- Aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • the UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5% by weight are preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably made up as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam, particularly preferably as pump foam or in particular aerosol foam.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container") filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container
  • aerosol container an additional compressed gas container
  • non-aerosol container is defined as a container under atmospheric pressure, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of a mechanical action through a pumping system.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged as aerosol hair foam.
  • the agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
  • Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
  • blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam.
  • aerosol foam products contain the propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant.
  • the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred aerosol containers preferably comprise
  • At least one storage container containing the agent according to the invention At least one storage container containing the agent according to the invention
  • valve which is fastened to the lid (cup) of the storage container, - If appropriate, a dip tube, which faces the inside of the storage container and is connected to the valve and
  • Aerosol foam or aerosol spray are preferably made of aluminum,
  • Tinplate glass or polyvinyl chloride made, in particular aluminum.
  • the inside of the aerosol container which comes into contact with the agent according to the invention, is again preferably provided with an internal protection. They are preferably suitable for this purpose
  • Interior protective lacquers such as epoxy phenolic lacquers, as described for example by the company Hoba
  • valves of the aerosol containers are preferably made of aluminum, tinplate or stainless steel
  • valves Represents material of the valves.
  • the valves can in turn be provided in particular with the aforementioned inner protective materials, in particular on the inner side, which comes into contact with the agent according to the invention.
  • valve has a stem which is movably mounted in the valve.
  • the shaft is of cylindrical shape.
  • the shaft in turn preferably has an inner diameter of 1.0 to
  • the valve may have a dip tube attached to the valve.
  • the dip tube in turn preferably has one
  • a preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol foams containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant.
  • Preferred agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam according to the invention, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above.
  • Particularly suitable for foam applications are aerosol containers comprising such valves which are commercially available as product 522983 PV10697, product 541100 PV11394 or product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way.
  • all constituents of the respective agent with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve.
  • the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
  • isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container.
  • isopentane made up of different blowing agent, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than isopentane.
  • the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.
  • a second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.
  • the compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair foams, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair foam, a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.
  • a third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.
  • inventive styling agents A to J were prepared according to the following table.
  • hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 25% by weight of active substance on hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of preswollen hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) (Evonik)
  • Copolymer of 2,5-furandione with 2-methyl-1-propene, ethyl ester, reaction products with N, N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine and polyethylene-polypropylene glycol 2-aminopropyl methyl ether copolymer in the form of an imidated poly ( isobutylene-co-maleic anhydride polymer with CAS number: 497926-97-3) (about 30% by weight of active substance, INCI name: polyimide-1) (ISP)
  • the formulations A to D were each filled in an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the formulations E to G were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the formulations H to J were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 541100 PV11394 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the respective aerosol containers were filled with a propellant mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.
  • Each of the formulations A to J was tested on a test person on the hair. For this purpose, a sufficient amount of foam was added to the palm of the hand from the aerosol can and massaged into the hair. The hair was then styled and shaped. The resulting hairstyle had a perfect fit and the hair was cared for.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent pour traiter des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux humains, comprenant, dans un vecteur cosmétiquement acceptable (a): au moins une cellulose présentant au moins un élément structural de formule (1), dans lequel les restes R désignent indépendamment les uns des autres, un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle (C1 à C6) ou un groupe -CH2-CHR1-(O-CH2-CHR1-)mOH, R1 désignant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe méthyle, un groupe éthyle ou un groupe n-propyle, m désignant un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à zéro, à condition qu'au moins l'un des restes R désigne un groupe alkyle (C1 à C6) susmentionné et qu'au moins l'un des restes R désigne un groupe -CH2-CHR1-(O-CH2-CHR1-)mOH susmentionné, et n désignant un nombre entier supérieur à zéro; et (b) au moins un polymère supplémentaire filmogène et/ou fixateur. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation dudit agent, en particulier sous forme de mousse pour cheveux, pour une mise en forme temporaire des cheveux et pour un soin capillaire,.
EP09772307A 2008-07-01 2009-06-16 Agent pour fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins une cellulose spéciale et au moins un polymère supplémentaire filmogène et/ou fixateur Withdrawn EP2451530A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200810030660 DE102008030660A1 (de) 2008-07-01 2008-07-01 Mittel für keratinhaltige Fasern, enthaltend mindestens eine spezielle Cellulose und mindestens ein zusätzliches filmbildendes und/oder festigendes Polymer
PCT/EP2009/057420 WO2010000607A2 (fr) 2008-07-01 2009-06-16 Agent pour fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins une cellulose spéciale et au moins un polymère supplémentaire filmogène et/ou fixateur

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2451530A2 true EP2451530A2 (fr) 2012-05-16

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EP09772307A Withdrawn EP2451530A2 (fr) 2008-07-01 2009-06-16 Agent pour fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins une cellulose spéciale et au moins un polymère supplémentaire filmogène et/ou fixateur

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2451530A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102008030660A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2010000607A2 (fr)

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WO2013048779A1 (fr) * 2011-09-29 2013-04-04 Rohm And Haas Chemicals Llc Composition de soin personnel et procédés dans lesquels de la méthylcellulose à basse température de gélification est utilisée
EP2724713A1 (fr) * 2012-10-26 2014-04-30 Basf Se Gel capillaire clair et transparent
DE102016223395A1 (de) 2016-11-25 2018-05-30 Beiersdorf Ag Haar-Schaumfestiger mit pflegender Wirkung
DE102021206450A1 (de) 2021-06-23 2022-12-29 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Haarschaumfestiger enthaltend ein natürliches Styling-Polymer

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WO2010000607A3 (fr) 2012-10-04
DE102008030660A1 (de) 2010-01-07
WO2010000607A2 (fr) 2010-01-07

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