WO2010000608A1 - Agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins un composé spécial de bétaïne et au moins un polymère filmogène et/ou renforçateur - Google Patents

Agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins un composé spécial de bétaïne et au moins un polymère filmogène et/ou renforçateur Download PDF

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WO2010000608A1
WO2010000608A1 PCT/EP2009/057421 EP2009057421W WO2010000608A1 WO 2010000608 A1 WO2010000608 A1 WO 2010000608A1 EP 2009057421 W EP2009057421 W EP 2009057421W WO 2010000608 A1 WO2010000608 A1 WO 2010000608A1
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polymers
hair
formula
film
composition according
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PCT/EP2009/057421
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2010000608A9 (fr
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Burkhard Müller
Pamela Kaftan
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority to EP09772308A priority Critical patent/EP2291169A1/fr
Publication of WO2010000608A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010000608A1/fr
Publication of WO2010000608A9 publication Critical patent/WO2010000608A9/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one specific betaine compound with at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, the use of these agents for temporary deformation and / or care keratin inconveniencer fibers and aerosol hair foams based on these agents.
  • all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer may preferably be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • the most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent.
  • the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.
  • styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. To name in particular Moisture resistance, low tack and a well-balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling middle I should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types. In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents.
  • the polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • the polymers when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.
  • a first object of the present invention is an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • the protonated form is obtained, for example, by acidification of a solution of the compounds of the above formula (I) with mineral acids such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid and / or with organic acids such as citric acid or tartaric acid.
  • mineral acids such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid
  • organic acids such as citric acid or tartaric acid.
  • particularly preferred agents which contain betaine compounds of formula (I) are those in which R 1 is a (C 6 to C 10 ) -alkyl group, in particular a (C 8 to C 10 ) -alkyl group.
  • betaine compounds of the formula (I) are particularly preferably used when, according to formula (I), R 2 and R 3 are a methyl group.
  • Betaine compounds having the formula (I) are for example sold under the trade designation Tego betaine ® 810 (as an aqueous solution of 35 wt .-% of active substance with the INCI name caprylic / Capramidopropyl Betaine) from Evonik.
  • the betaine compounds of the formula (I) are preferably in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.02% by weight to 2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition in which means are included.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which, if compounds of the formula (II) or their protonated forms are contained,
  • R 4 is an alkyl group having more than 10 carbon atoms carbon atoms
  • R 5 and R 6 independently of one another are a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, the weight ratio of the compounds of the formula (I) to the compounds of the formula (II) is at least 0.2; more preferably at least 0.5; most preferably at least 1; most preferably at least 2.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably present as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as pump foam or even more advantageously as aerosol foam.
  • the following preferred viscosity adjustment proves to be particularly advantageous in the context of packaging as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as pump foam or even more advantageously as aerosol foam.
  • the inventive composition preferably has a viscosity of not more than 10,000 mPa s, preferably of at most 5000 mPa s, particularly preferably of a maximum of 2500 mPas (both measured at 2O 0 C with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 10 rpm).
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of a foam.
  • the agent according to the invention contains, in addition to the previously defined betaine compounds of the formula (I), at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin. According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • the so-called curl retention test is often used.
  • composition of the invention preferably comprises at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, most preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention and / or setting polymers. If differing preferred quantities have been specified below, the latter are considered to be even more preferred amounts.
  • compositions which contain, in addition to the previously defined betaine compound, at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which is selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers (in particular homopolymers of the group) N-vinylpyrrolidones, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate), nonionic cellulose derivatives, starch and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic Copolymers of the 3- (C 1 -C 6 ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethyl
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 4 ) acyl group
  • Hydrogen atom R '" represents a linear or branched (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -
  • Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide , Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers from (Ci to C 3 ) alkyl groups are selected.
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (d- to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a
  • agents are therefore particularly preferred according to the invention, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 2 ) alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
  • nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable for use as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (e.g., under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® AQUALON) and Natrosol ® - Types (Hercules) are distributed.
  • cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (e.
  • composition according to the invention additionally comprises as nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (CeIM) in which
  • R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group or a group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, in which
  • R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of R is a previously defined (Ci to C 6 ) - alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH 2 -CHR 1 - (O-CH 2 -CHR 1 -) m OH, n is an integer greater than zero.
  • Such celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (CeIM) are preferably present in the agent according to the invention which, according to the formula (CeIM) as the radical R, independently of one another, is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an isopropyl group, a group.
  • Particularly preferred agents include those celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (CeIM), according to which R is independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a group -CH 2 CHMe- (O-CH 2 CHMe) q -OH, where q is a is an integer, with the proviso that at least one of R represents a methyl group and at least one of R represents a group -CH 2 CHMe- (O-CH 2 CHMe) q -OH.
  • CeIM structural element of the formula
  • An especially preferred suitable cellulose of formula (CEIM) is the hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder) under the trade name Tegocel ® from Evonik example, as Tegocel ® HPM, Tegocel ® HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, white powder), Tegocel ® fluid HPM 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) and Tegocel ® fluid HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pre-swollen hydroxypropyl methylcellulose).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprising the celluloses having at least one structural unit of the previously defined formula (CeIM) in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5 , 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt.%, In each case based on the weight of the composition.
  • CeIM previously defined formula
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently represent a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl group, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Monomer units as well as nonionic monomer units are particularly preferably suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers.
  • suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers.
  • Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following
  • R 2 is a methyl group
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, m is 2 or
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X "of the formula (M1) are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions Preferred are halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a highly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (Ethnichem), for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH are commercially available.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of multiply olefinically unsaturated compounds.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (M9) as non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid alkyl esters CI_ 4-C- ⁇ - 4 -alkyl.
  • nonionic monomers preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid alkyl esters CI_ 4-C- ⁇ - 4 -alkyl.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be used as in the case of the homopolymers above described, be networked.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • Copolymers of quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate and methacrylate are particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers.
  • agents which are particularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a), at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or its protonated form
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ', R "and R” independently of one another represent a (Ci to C 2 o) -alkyl group
  • X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, n is 1 or 3.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, Tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • agents which are particularly preferred contain, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a), at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or its protonated form
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from the group of the cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 ® by the company National Starch.
  • Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore serve those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing agents
  • agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are considered to be particularly preferred
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M11)
  • R is a (Ci to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group), and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Including vinylpyrrolidone / I ⁇ 'inyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium chloride copolymers are (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium 16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat HM 552 ® (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium copolymers (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H- imidazolium Terpolynner (such as that with the INCI Designation Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care or Luviquat ® Hold (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidon
  • cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • Chitosans include, for example, chitosans.
  • Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention.
  • agents are therefore very particularly preferred according to the invention, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one betaine compound of the formula (I) or their protonated form
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 2 ) alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another denote a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from chitosan and its derivatives.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.
  • Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and a Have ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
  • Suitable chitosan are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ® NB / commercially 101 freely available.
  • Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis)
  • the chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • suitable temporary cationic polymers are also those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M 1-1) to (M 1-8)
  • the group of polymers of vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer applies copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ® SF-40 (ISP)),
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a .35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / P / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)), vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer,
  • INCI name VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-IO (ISP)
  • ISP Styleze CC-IO
  • (b2) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer.
  • the above-defined preferred embodiments with regard to the structure or amount of the betaine compound of the formula (I) and the amounts which are preferably suitable and also representatives of the polymers (b1) and (b2) apply to this embodiment.
  • the agents of this embodiment are also preferably present as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, in particular as pump foam or even more advantageously as aerosol foam
  • compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -SO 3 ' groups and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • an inventively amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • Amphomer ® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • zwitterionic polymers have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.
  • preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A () (ZI)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
  • R 6 -CH CR 7 -COOH (Z-II) in which R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (Z-I) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A () is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate -Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (Z-II).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (Z-II) for the stated polymers.
  • Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.
  • the monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, wherein as alkylating reagents methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable.
  • alkylating reagents methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable.
  • the quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.
  • those monomers of formula (ZI) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups.
  • the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).
  • Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • At least one anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • anionic polymers are selected from the group which is formed from copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (such as, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60 wt % dispersion in isopropanol-water), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ® Soft having an acid number of 84 to 105 under the INCI name Acrylates copolymer in an approximately 20 to 30 wt.
  • copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid such as, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60 wt % dispersion in isopropanol-water
  • copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid
  • Polyurethane with at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as it is available under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI -% dispersion in water).
  • Term Polyurethane-1 is sold by the company BASF SE).
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one further surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle.
  • the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes, each of which is different from the betaine compounds of formula (I).
  • the surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
  • the additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one nonionic surfactant. In this case, it is again preferable to use such agents according to the invention for achieving the object, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
  • the agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular of from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to a linear or branched (especially linear) fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene oxide in particular of from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to a linear or branched (especially linear) fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50 which are marketed as Eumulgin ® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ® CS 50 (Cognis).
  • R 1 represents a (C 4 to C 12 ) -alkyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen Alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E 1-11)
  • R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (EMI) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  • R 8 CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide ether carboxylic acids, condensation products of C 8 -C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamid
  • Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 - C 8 - sarcosine.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and Cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11.
  • the pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
  • the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling.
  • a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes. Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone.
  • These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group.
  • those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess and Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.).
  • the raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin.
  • sericin holds this double thread together.
  • Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.
  • Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin eg.
  • soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda) , hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.
  • the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
  • the inventive panthenol preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
  • these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.
  • UV filters By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation.
  • at least one UV filter is added to the agent.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • the UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5% by weight are preferred.
  • the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. These dyes may be nonionic or cationic.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
  • Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency.
  • Structural and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably packaged as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol show m, particularly preferably as pump foam or in particular aerosol foam.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container") filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container
  • aerosol container an additional compressed gas container
  • non-aerosol container is defined as a container under normal pressure, which is used to distribute a product by mechanical action through a pumping system.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged as aerosol hair foam.
  • the agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
  • Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
  • blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam.
  • aerosol foam products contain the propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant.
  • the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred aerosol containers preferably comprise
  • At least one storage container containing the agent according to the invention At least one storage container containing the agent according to the invention
  • valve which is fastened to the lid (cup) of the storage container, - If appropriate, a dip tube, which faces the inside of the storage container and is connected to the valve and
  • Aerosol foam or aerosol spray are preferably made of aluminum,
  • Tinplate glass or polyvinyl chloride made, in particular aluminum.
  • the inside of the aerosol container which comes into contact with the agent according to the invention, is again preferably provided with an internal protection. They are preferably suitable for this purpose
  • Interior protective lacquers such as epoxy phenolic lacquers, as described for example by the company Hoba
  • valves of the aerosol containers are preferably made of aluminum, tinplate or stainless steel
  • valves Represents material of the valves.
  • the valves can in turn be provided in particular with the aforementioned inner protective materials, in particular on the inner side, which comes into contact with the agent according to the invention.
  • valve has a stem which is movably mounted in the valve.
  • the shaft is of cylindrical shape.
  • the shaft in turn preferably has an inner diameter of 1.0 to
  • the valve may have a dip tube attached to the valve.
  • the dip tube in turn preferably has one
  • a preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol foams containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant.
  • Preferred agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam according to the invention, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above.
  • Particularly suitable for foam applications are aerosol containers comprising such valves which are commercially available as product 522983 PV10697, product 541100 PV11394 or product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way.
  • all constituents of the respective agent with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve.
  • the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
  • isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated in the compositions according to the invention is and is assembled in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container.
  • at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane.
  • the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.
  • a second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.
  • the compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair foams, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair foam, a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.
  • a third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.
  • inventive styling agents A to H were prepared according to the following table.
  • Ci 8 with 25 units of ethylene oxide ethoxylated Ci 6 -, Ci 8 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Ceteareth- 25) (BASF)
  • the formulations A to C were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the formulations D and E were each filled into an aerosol container, which fulfills the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the formulations F to H were each filled into an aerosol container which fulfills the following technical parameters: aluminum storage container with valve product 541100 PV11394 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the respective aerosol containers were filled with a propellant mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.
  • Each of the formulas A to H was tested on a test person on the hair. For this purpose, a sufficient amount of foam was added to the palm of the hand from the aerosol can and massaged into the hair. The hair was then styled and shaped. The resulting hairstyle had a perfect fit and the hair was cared for.

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Abstract

L’invention concerne un agent de traitement de fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux humains, contenant dans un support cosmétiquement acceptable (a) au moins un composé de bétaïne de la formule (I) ou sa forme protonée, R1 étant un groupe alkyle (en C4 à C12), R2 et R3 étant indépendamment l’un de l’autre un groupe alkyle (en C1 à C4), et (b) au moins un polymère filmogène et/ou renforçateur. L’invention concerne également l’utilisation de l’agent pour la déformation temporaire des cheveux et les soins capillaires, en particulier comme mousse de coiffage.
PCT/EP2009/057421 2008-07-01 2009-06-16 Agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins un composé spécial de bétaïne et au moins un polymère filmogène et/ou renforçateur WO2010000608A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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EP09772308A EP2291169A1 (fr) 2008-07-01 2009-06-16 Agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins un composé spécial de bétaïne et au moins un polymère filmogène et/ou renforçateur

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DE200810030661 DE102008030661A1 (de) 2008-07-01 2008-07-01 Mittel für keratinhaltige Fasern, enthaltend mindestens eine spezielle Betainverbindung und mindestens ein filmbildendes und/oder festigendes Polymer
DE102008030661.4 2008-07-01

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WO2010000608A9 WO2010000608A9 (fr) 2010-05-14

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DE102010041267A1 (de) * 2010-09-23 2012-03-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern
EP2724713A1 (fr) * 2012-10-26 2014-04-30 Basf Se Gel capillaire clair et transparent

Citations (8)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1995013788A1 (fr) * 1993-11-18 1995-05-26 The Procter & Gamble Company Agent moussant destine a des compositions cosmetiques qui doivent laisser une mousse
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