WO2012055665A2 - Agents pour fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Agents pour fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012055665A2
WO2012055665A2 PCT/EP2011/066950 EP2011066950W WO2012055665A2 WO 2012055665 A2 WO2012055665 A2 WO 2012055665A2 EP 2011066950 W EP2011066950 W EP 2011066950W WO 2012055665 A2 WO2012055665 A2 WO 2012055665A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
formula
structural unit
hair
copolymer
weight
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PCT/EP2011/066950
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012055665A3 (fr
Inventor
Thorsten Knappe
Helga Flodrop Van
Anna Henschel
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012055665A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012055665A2/fr
Publication of WO2012055665A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012055665A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions for use on keratin fibers, as well as the use of these agents for temporary deformation and / or care keratin-containing fibers.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hair and in the temporary transformation keratin braver fibers to the temporary deformation of hair into a hairstyle.
  • this viscosity must remain stable, especially during storage and during application.
  • the salts of perspiration on the skin surface often have a viscosity-reducing effect. Without a stable product viscosity, the gel or cream runs down the hair or drips from the hands during the application.
  • Temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • the most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. Is the keratinic fibers human? Hair, one speaks of strong hairstyle or the high degree of hold of the styling agent.
  • the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.
  • styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect.
  • a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types. In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents.
  • the polymers when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff. Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of strong grip on the one hand and flexible grip on the other. To impart a strong hold, the fixing polymer must adhere well to the keratinous fiber and form a sufficiently hard film. However, the resulting polymer film is not intended to give the hair tactility of a board, but to allow the fibers a degree of flexibility without losing the imprinted styling of the hair (hairstyle).
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, which can be applied well with the hands, is characterized by a high degree of hold and still gives the fibers flexibility and no Filmpiaken forms.
  • a first subject of the present invention are therefore agents for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (II I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV),
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Examples of (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.
  • the properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when present in gel form. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.
  • the copolymer (a) has a charge density of the cationic charge of 0.8 meq / g at a pH of 7.
  • R according to formula (I I) is a methyl group.
  • R '' according to formula (I I) represents a hydrogen atom It is preferred according to the invention if R "according to formula (IV) is a methyl group.
  • a copolymer (a) which is particularly preferred according to the invention comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (11-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (II I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1),
  • the agents according to the invention contain a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylimidazole, N-methyl-N'-vinylimidazolium chloride and methacrylic acid as copolymer (a) according to the invention.
  • copolymer (a) which is denoted by the INCI name Polyquaternium-86 is present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.
  • Such copolymers are sold, for example, by the company BASF under the tradename Luvigel ® Advanced in the form of a white powder.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain the copolymers of feature (a) in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 4 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • inventive compositions as polyol (b) contain at least one at 25 ° C and 1013 mbar liquid polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon skeleton of the polyols (b) according to the invention is preferably aliphatic.
  • the preferred aliphatic polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups in turn preferably has a hydrocarbon skeleton having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the agent according to the invention contains, as polyol (b), at least one aliphatic polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups which is liquid at 25 ° C. and 1013 mbar.
  • the preferred liquid at 25 ° C and 1013 mbar aliphatic polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups in turn preferably has a hydrocarbon skeleton having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred polyols also have a chemical structure which is composed exclusively of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and oxygen atoms and a (in particular aliphatic) hydrocarbon skeleton, to which at least three hydroxy groups bind.
  • oxygen atoms bind only as hydroxy groups (-OH) and / or as ether functionalities (-O-) to the hydrocarbon backbone.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably comprise at least one said polyol (b) selected from glycerol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,3,3-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, 1, 2,5-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 1, 2,3-hexanetriol, 1, 2,4-hexanetriol, 1, 2,5-hexanetriol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2,3, 4-hexanetriol, 2,3,5-hexanetriol, 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, trimethylolpropanol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, xylitol, mannitol, gluconolactone, glucuronic acid, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, hydroxyethylsorbitol, Phytantriol, hydroxypropylphenyltriol, lact
  • copolymers (a) and the polyols (b) according to the invention preferably in a weight ratio [copolymer (a) to polyol (b)] of 1 to 5 to 5 to 1, in particular from 1 to 3 to 1, 5 to 1, all particularly preferably from 1 to 1, 5 to 1 to 1, used.
  • a weight ratio [copolymer (a) to polyol (b)] of 1 to 5 to 5 to 1, in particular from 1 to 3 to 1, 5 to 1, all particularly preferably from 1 to 1, 5 to 1 to 1, used.
  • Particularly good effects according to the invention were obtained when (in particular within the aforementioned proportions) the amount by weight of copolymer (a) does not exceed the amount by weight of polyol (b).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise the polyols (b) in an amount of from 0.3% by weight to 30.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.6% by weight to 18.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 1, 0 to 5.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
  • copolymers (a) and the polyols (b) are particularly preferred according to the invention to use the copolymers (a) and the polyols (b) in the preferred amounts (vide supra), with the proviso that the preferred weight ratio of copolymer (a) to polyol (b) (vide supra) is maintained ,
  • copolymers (a) in an amount of 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, the polyols (b) in an amount of 0.6 to 18 wt .-% in the agent with the proviso that the weight ratio of copolymer (a) to polyol (b) is in the range of 1 to 3 to 1.5: 1.
  • the copolymers (a) in an amount of 1, 4 to 2.0 wt .-%
  • the polyols (b) in an amount of 1, 4 to 3.0 wt .-% in the
  • the weight ratio of copolymer (a) to polyol (b) is in a range of 1 to 1.5 to 1 to 1.
  • the amounts and proportions of components (a) and (b) mentioned as being preferred also apply to the preferred copolymers (a) or to the polyols (b) characterized as being preferred.
  • the invention is characterized by the following very particularly preferred embodiments (A) to (F):
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation
  • (B) at least one at 25 ° C and 101 3 mbar liquid, aliphatic polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R is a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (11-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1),
  • (B) at least one at 25 ° C and 1013 mbar liquid, aliphatic polyol having at least 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer (c) in addition to the copolymer (a).
  • the latter is different from the copolymer (a) and the polyol (b).
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers. As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.
  • composition of the invention preferably comprises at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.
  • agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic setting polymer.
  • the additional film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention. If differing preferred quantities have been specified below, the latter are considered to be even more preferred amounts.
  • agents which in addition to the previously defined amphiphilic cationic polymers additionally contain at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, which is selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from
  • nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, in particular from
  • Homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1) in the to C 4 ) -alkyl, (CT to C 4 ) -alkenyl or (C 2 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X "is a physiologically acceptable organic or is inorganic anion,
  • anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as an additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ' is a (C 1 to C 4 ) acyl group
  • Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate , Alkylmethacrylat, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers from (C ⁇ to C 3 ) alkyl groups are selected.
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units
  • R ' represents a (C to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
  • Luviskol ® K 90 or Luviskol ® K 85 from BASF SE
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® VA 37, Lu
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymer is a non-ionic polymer selected from homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and / or from copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone.
  • Carbon atoms in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
  • Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with NN-DC ! to C 4 ) -alkylamino- (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkylacrylamide are very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the invention is characterized by the following very particularly preferred embodiments (G) to (L):
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R is a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation and (B) 0.3 wt .-% to 30.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.6 wt .-% to 1 8.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 5.0 %
  • B 0.3 wt .-% to 30.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.6 wt .-% to 1 8.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 5.0 %
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a physiologically acceptable cation
  • nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic setting polymer in particular polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (11-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1),
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (11-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-1),
  • nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic setting polymer in particular polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • polyvinylpyrrolidone in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight. %, most preferably from 1, 5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-% to use.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-C4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • a cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic one solidifying polymer containing at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)
  • R ', R "and R” independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 30 ) -alkyl group
  • X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, n is 1 or 3.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, as copolymers of with diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1 under the designations Gafquat® 440, Gafquat ® 734, Gafquat ® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 1 1 PN (company BASF SE) are commercially available.
  • Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1)
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
  • At least one copolymer (c1) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
  • the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 1 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).
  • the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers will, according to INCI Designated nomenclature as Polyquaternium-16 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552.
  • these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are available for example from BASF under the trade name Luviquat ® UltraCare.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units
  • compositions according to the invention are thus characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer at least one copolymer (c2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1 -a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one further structural unit according to formula (M7)
  • the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the structural units of the formula (M1 1 -a), (M6) and (M7) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c2) are based exclusively on structural units of the formulas (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 2)
  • component (c2) describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ® Hold by BASF ,
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1 -a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as structural units forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers which contain structural units as structural units of the formulas (M1 1 -a) and (M6), as well as further structural inhibitors from the group of the vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1 -a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M10) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)
  • the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1 -a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units contained in the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 1 -a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 3)
  • indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M1 1 -a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) may be randomly distributed in the molecule.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® Supreme available.
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1 -a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M12).
  • vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers such as Polyquaternium-16 ® with the INCI name under the trade names Luviquat style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552 (BASF SE)
  • vinyl pyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3 methyl-1H-imidazolium-copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ® (BASF SE)
  • vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H- imidazolium Terpolymer such as that with the INCI name Polyqua
  • cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention are likewise those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1 -8)
  • copolymers which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1 -8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10),
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)
  • ISP Styleze CC-10
  • compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 3 H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO contain " - or -S0 3 " groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or S0 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • the latter have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.
  • the amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can be made are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle.
  • the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes.
  • the surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
  • the additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.
  • the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • nonionic surfactants the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ( - ) or -SO 3 ( - ) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative
  • Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 2 -C 18 acylsarcosine.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers comprise water (preferably at least 10% by weight of water, in particular at least 50% by weight of water, in each case based on the total agent).
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1.
  • the pH range is particularly preferably between 2 and 8, very particularly preferably in the range from 4.5 to 6.5.
  • the pH values refer to the pH value at 20 ° C for the purposes of this document, unless otherwise stated.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of preferably 50,000 to 400,000 mPas, more preferably from 60,000 to 250,000 mPas (in each case at 20 ° C., Brookfield, spindle TE, Helipath, 5 rpm, measuring point at 60 seconds after the beginning of the measurement) ,
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
  • auxiliaries and additives are in particular to name additional care substances.
  • a care substance according to the invention preferably at least one silicone oil and / or at least one silicone gum is used.
  • Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • the agents contain the silicones or silicone gums preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the agent may optionally contain at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain panthenol.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1
  • compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
  • the agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
  • Agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the inventive compositions is usually 0.1
  • wt.% Based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes.
  • the agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Oxidation dye precursors are. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form under or under the influence of oxidants or of atmospheric oxygen
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
  • the agents according to the invention cream or as a gel (especially as a hair cream or hair gel), more preferably as a gel (especially as a hair gel), made up.
  • a gel is to be understood to mean a dimensionally stable, easily deformable and dispersed system which consists of a colloidally divided substance with long or highly branched particles and a liquid as dispersing agent. At least polymeric thickeners in the form of the copolymers (a) (vide supra) are used as long or highly branched particles.
  • compositions according to the invention of the embodiment as gel preferably have the viscosity values previously mentioned as preferred (vide supra).
  • a second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.
  • compositions of the invention and products containing these agents are characterized in particular by the fact that they give the treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold and the hair remains flexible. If the agent is formulated as a gel or hair gel, the result is a gel with a viscosity which is stable to salts. There is no appreciable reduction in viscosity on contact with the skin of the hands, i. The product can be spread evenly with your hands on the hair without running from the hands.
  • a third aspect of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.
  • the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape before, during or after the application of the agent according to the invention. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, in the context of the method according to the invention, not to rinse out the agent according to the invention from the keratin-containing fibers.
  • Formulations A and B had a stable viscosity compared to sweat and were storage stable. Each of Formulations A and B was each tested on a test person on the hair. For this purpose, a sufficient amount of gel was placed on the palm and distributed in the hair. The hair was then styled and shaped. The resulting hairstyle had a perfect flexible hold without the formation of film pimples.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques, notamment de cheveux humains, contenant dans un support cosmétique acceptable: (a) au moins un copolymère qui renferme au moins une unité structurale représentée par la formule (I), au moins une unité structurale représentée par la formule (II), au moins une unité structurale représentée par la formule (III) et au moins une unité structurale représentée par la formule (IV), R'' étant un groupe C1 à C4-alkyle, notamment un groupe méthyle, R étant un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle, R''' étant un atome d'hydrogène ou un équivalent d'un cation physiologiquement acceptable; et (b) au moins un polyol portant au moins 3 groupes hydroxy. Les agents selon l'invention sont particulièrement adaptés à la mise en forme temporaire de cheveux et aux soins des cheveux, notamment sous la forme d'une crème pour les cheveux ou d'un gel pour les cheveux.
PCT/EP2011/066950 2010-10-27 2011-09-29 Agents pour fibres kératiniques WO2012055665A2 (fr)

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DE201010043016 DE102010043016A1 (de) 2010-10-27 2010-10-27 Mittel für keratinhaltige Fasern
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013060679A1 (fr) * 2011-10-27 2013-05-02 Basf Se Utilisation comme agent de trempe de métaux d'une composition comprenant un polymère contenant du vinyl-lactame, un solvant et au moins un biocide ne contenant pas d'halogène
EP2724713A1 (fr) 2012-10-26 2014-04-30 Basf Se Gel capillaire clair et transparent

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FR2994388B1 (fr) * 2012-08-07 2014-09-05 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un polymere fixant particulier et au moins un polymere epaississant particulier

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DE19736906A1 (de) 1997-08-25 1999-03-04 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung von sulfatierten Fettsäurealkylenglykolestern
DE19756454C1 (de) 1997-12-18 1999-06-17 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Glycerincarbonat

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Title
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013060679A1 (fr) * 2011-10-27 2013-05-02 Basf Se Utilisation comme agent de trempe de métaux d'une composition comprenant un polymère contenant du vinyl-lactame, un solvant et au moins un biocide ne contenant pas d'halogène
EP2724713A1 (fr) 2012-10-26 2014-04-30 Basf Se Gel capillaire clair et transparent

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