WO1997002006A1 - Preparation pour le traitement des fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Preparation pour le traitement des fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1997002006A1
WO1997002006A1 PCT/EP1996/002732 EP9602732W WO9702006A1 WO 1997002006 A1 WO1997002006 A1 WO 1997002006A1 EP 9602732 W EP9602732 W EP 9602732W WO 9702006 A1 WO9702006 A1 WO 9702006A1
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Prior art keywords
preparation according
anionic
acid
preparation
hair
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PCT/EP1996/002732
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Manuela Ehlert
Dieter Goddinger
Detlef Hollenberg
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Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Publication of WO1997002006A1 publication Critical patent/WO1997002006A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations which contain a special setting combination of active ingredients.
  • the human hair is treated in various ways with hair cosmetic preparations. This includes, for example, cleaning the hair with shampoos and shower preparations and bleaching, dyeing and shaping hair with waving agents, tinting agents and styling preparations.
  • hair cosmetic preparations for example, cleaning the hair with shampoos and shower preparations and bleaching, dyeing and shaping hair with waving agents, tinting agents and styling preparations.
  • the hair structure can be adversely affected.
  • impairments are evident, for example, in poor wet and dry combability, an increased electrostatic charge, increased brittleness or insufficient strength of the hair, and in more serious cases in split, i.e. split hair. In many cases, this also worsens the external appearance of the hairstyle.
  • a known way of alleviating abuses is to subject the hair to post-treatment with appropriate active ingredients, mostly cationic surfactants, which may be combined with other substances. Inadequate strength of the hair can be counteracted, for example, with special hair setting agents or hair sprays.
  • active ingredients mostly cationic surfactants, which may be combined with other substances.
  • Inadequate strength of the hair can be counteracted, for example, with special hair setting agents or hair sprays.
  • the hair cosmetician tries to avoid such additional treatment steps and instead to provide products which carry out both the actual hair treatment and the aftertreatment in one application step.
  • the cosmetic chemist tries to find new effects of known cosmetic components, for example synergistic effects of several known components, and to make them usable for use.
  • the invention thus relates to preparations for treating ceramic fibers, in particular human hair, which comprise a combination of active substances
  • the anionic homopolymers are preferably composed of an unsaturated C3-C6 carboxylic acid.
  • Preferred C3-C6 carboxylic acids are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid.
  • Methacrylic acid and especially acrylic acid are very particularly preferred monomers for the anionic homopolymers.
  • the homopolymers A can be used both in non-crosslinked form and in crosslinked form.
  • crosslinked polymers are understood to mean the reaction products of the polymeric polycarboxylic acids with polyhydric alcohols, in which some of the carboxyl groups react with these alcohols to form ester bonds.
  • the anionic homopolymers in crosslinked and uncrosslinked form, can be used both in the free acid form and in completely or partially neutralized form.
  • customary bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, in particular sodium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanoiamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol and 2-aminobutanol can be used.
  • Sodium hydroxide, ammonia, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred neutralizing agents.
  • the neutralization can be carried out according to the invention both with a base and with a base mixture. When choosing a base mixture, it may be preferred to use a mixture of ammonia and the above-mentioned alkanolamines.
  • Compounds of this type are, for example, under the names Carbopol R 934, Carbopol R 934P, Carbopol R 940 (Carbopol ETD 2001), Carbopol 941 (CarbopolR ETD 2050), Carbo ⁇ ol R 950, Carbopol R 980, Carbopol R 981, Carbopol R ETD 2020, Hostacerin R PN 73 and 3V Sigma PNC R 400 available.
  • the homopolymers A are preferably present in the preparations according to the invention in an amount of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Quantities of 0.4 - 5% by weight have proven to be particularly effective.
  • anionic copolymer B Another mandatory component of the preparations according to the invention is an anionic copolymer B. These copolymers are built up from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • the anionic monomer of the copolymers preferably contains a -C00 "or -S ⁇ 3 ⁇ group as the anionic group.
  • Preferred anionic monomers with a -C00 "group are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acrylamido (Cl-C4) alkylcarboxylic acids, maleic acid and maleic acid mono (Cl-C4) alkyl esters and their physiologically compatible salts.
  • the physiologically compatible salts the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, ammonium and alkanolammonium salts, in particular sodium, potassium and magnesium salts and ammonium salts, are preferred.
  • Preferred anionic monomers with a -S ⁇ 3 ⁇ group are the acrylamido- (Cl-4) -alkylsulfonic acids and their physiologically tolerable salts.
  • the physiologically compatible salts the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, ammonium and alkanolammonium salts, in particular the sodium, potassium and magnesium salts and ammonium salts, are preferred.
  • Acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid and its salts are particularly preferred anionic monomers for the anionic copolymers B.
  • the anionic copolymer B contains at least one nonionic co-monomer.
  • Preferred nonionic comonomers are acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylic acid (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ester, vinyl alcohol and vinyl alcohol (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ether.
  • Acrylamide is a particularly preferred non-ionic co-monomer.
  • copolymers B used according to the invention preferably contain at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 70% by weight, of nonionic monomers.
  • copolymer B according to the invention are, for example
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers available, for example, under the trademark Luviflex R (BASF).
  • a preferred polymer is the vinyl pyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers available under the name Luviflex R VBM-35 (BASF).
  • Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold R strong (BASF), and methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / t-butyl acrylate terpolymer, which are sold under the name Luvimer R 100P (BASF) become.
  • Copolymers B which consist of, have proven particularly suitable according to the invention
  • Copolymers which consist only of the two monomers acrylamide and acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically tolerable salt of this acid have proven to be particularly suitable in many cases.
  • Such a polymer in the form of the sodium salt is sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel R 305 as a compound with iso-paraffin and an ethoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • copolymers B are preferably present in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-2% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.3-2% by weight, based on the overall preparation
  • the preparation according to the invention is a hair treatment agent.
  • the other components of the preparation according to the invention then depend on the type of hair treatment composition.
  • the active ingredient combination according to the invention can be an essential active principle of the special hair treatment agent; the combination of active ingredients can also in medium are incorporated, which primarily serve another purpose, such as cleaning or tinting the hair.
  • the formulations according to the invention include all known types of hair treatment compositions, such as Hair shampoos, hair rinses, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair waves, permanent waving agents and hair colorants.
  • Hair treatments and hair conditioning agents are preferred forms of the agents according to the invention, in particular those agents which are applied to the hair in the morning in order to give the hair a certain firming for the rest of the day.
  • the preparations according to the invention can contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known in such compositions.
  • the preparations contain at least one surfactant, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proven advantageous to select the surfactants from the nonionic surfactants.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group.
  • B a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.
  • Such connections are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil
  • alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids have become preferred nonionic surfactants 4 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R0- (Z) x are selected as nonionic surfactants. These connections are characterized by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. L-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention may contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are produced from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds.
  • Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z.
  • Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used.
  • sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allos, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are very particularly preferred.
  • alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -CO ⁇ ( ⁇ ) - or -S ⁇ 3 ( ⁇ ) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 1-6 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N- Alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-l8 _Ac y ⁇ sarcos ⁇ n *
  • ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethy1ammonium chloride.
  • the quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil R -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaterium-80).
  • Alkylamidoamines in particular fatty acid amidoamines such as stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, which is available under the name Tego Amid R S 18, are characterized not only by a good conditioning action, but also by their good biodegradability.
  • Quaternary ester compounds so-called “esterquats”, such as the products Dehyquart R AU-46, Dehyquart R F-30 and Dehyquart R F-75, as well as the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyl sold under the trademark Stepantex R are also very readily biodegradable dialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates.
  • An example of a quaternary sugar derivative that can be used as a cationic surfactant is the commercial product Glucquat R 100, according to the CTFA nomenclature a "lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride".
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
  • a "normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained by converting fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • preparations according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants, they preferably contain them in amounts of 0.01-1.5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains a water-insoluble oil.
  • Water-insoluble oils are understood to mean those organic liquids which are less than 1% by weight soluble in water at 20 ° C.
  • Oils which can be used according to the invention are, for example, paraffin oils based on saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, squalane, squalene, cholesterol fatty acid esters, Lanolin and the wool wax alcohols melting below 60 ° C and their lower (1-10 E0) ethoxylates.
  • Paraffin oils based on linear and in particular methyl-branched hydrocarbons have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain the water-insoluble oils in amounts of 0.01-8% by weight, based on the overall preparation.
  • the water-insoluble oil in amounts above 4% by weight, based on the overall preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention additionally contain a hair-conditioning active ingredient.
  • Preferred hair conditioning agents can be the cationic surfactants already listed above.
  • siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to be those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • Another group of hair-conditioning active ingredients are cationic polymers.
  • the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention contain cationic groups within the polymer structure. These groups can be part of the polymer chain; however, they can also be located in side chains which are connected to a main chain via intermediate links. Common cationic groups contain quaternary nitrogen or phosphorus atoms. Groups with quaternary nitrogen atoms are preferred. The quaternary nitrogen atoms can be 4 different or partly the same Bear substituents, as well as be part of a ring system. Preferred cationic groups are ammonium and imidazolinium groups.
  • the polymers are composed of compounds which, in addition to at least one cationic group, contain at least one polymerizable group and are free of anionic groups.
  • the polymerizable group is preferably a vinyl group.
  • cationic polymers in which the main polymer chain is composed, for example, of glycosides or has a protein character.
  • cationic copolymers which, in addition to the cationic monomers, also contain at least one nonionic monomer.
  • Suitable nonionic monomers are, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, methacrylamide, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate.
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone is a particularly preferred nonionic monomer.
  • a number of cationic polymers suitable for hair care are known to the person skilled in the art and are available as commercial products.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives as are commercially available under the names Celquat R and Polymer JR R.
  • the compounds Celquat H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR R 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • quaternized guar derivatives as are commercially available under the names Cosmedia Guar R and Jaguar R.
  • Preferred guar derivatives are, for example, Cosmedia Guar R C-261 and Jaguar R C 13-S.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and methacrylate such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, and vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers.
  • vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate and vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat R 734, Gafquat R 755 and Gafquat R HS100.
  • Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with vinyl imidazolium methochloride such as those offered under the name Luviquat R.
  • Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid are examples of such cationic polymers.
  • Cationically derivatized silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone) will), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil R -Quat 3270 and 7232 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane, quaterium-80).
  • Cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates which can be obtained, for example, by reacting alkaline, acidic or enzymatically hydrolyzed proteins with glycidyltrialkylammonium salts or 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salts, are also cationic polymers for the purposes of this invention.
  • the proteins which serve as starting materials for the protein hydrolyzates can be of animal or vegetable origin. Typical starting materials are keratin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, milk protein, wheat protein, silk protein and almond protein.
  • the hydrolysis produces mixtures of substances with molar masses in the range from approximately 100 to approximately 50,000 Daltons.
  • Usual average molecular weights are in the range from about 500 to about 5000 daltons.
  • the cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates advantageously contain one or two long alkyl chains with 8 to 22 C atoms and correspondingly two or a short alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred.
  • Preferred protein derivatives are substances of the formula (II)
  • R 4 stands for the side chains of the amino acids of the protein
  • R 1 and R2 independently of one another for alkyl chains with 1 to 4 C atoms
  • R3 for an alkyl chain with 8 to 22 C atoms.
  • Lamequat R L (chemical factory Grünau). It has the structure
  • R stands for the side chains of the amino acids of the collagen.
  • a name analogous to CTFA is lauryldimonium hydroxypropylamino hydrolyzed collagen.
  • Polymeric condensation resins of polyols and polyamines such as, for example, polyglycol-polyamine condensation resins, which are known under the CTFA name PEG-15 Cocopolyamine.
  • the product Polyquart R H 81 (Henkel) is commercially available, for example.
  • Another group that can be used as hair-conditioning active ingredients in preparations according to the invention are nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidones such as those sold under the name Luviskol R (BASF).
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidones are preferred nonionic polymers in the context of the invention.
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol R (BASF).
  • Luviskol R VA 64 and Luviskol R VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, as are sold, for example, under the trademark Culminal R and Benecel R (AQUALON).
  • phospholipids for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, can also be used as hair-conditioning active ingredients.
  • the hair-conditioning active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid
  • Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and xanthan gum, protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, Perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
  • Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, dyes,
  • Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, other substances for adjusting the pH, active ingredients such as panthenol, nonionic and cationic derivatives of panthenol such as the compound sold under the name Panthequat R , allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins Sunscreen
  • Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and fatty alcohols, fatty acid alkanolamides,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, EDETA, NTA and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex,
  • Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, and antioxidants, direct dyes, so-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye precursors,
  • Reducing agents such as Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate.
  • the agents which can be used according to the invention can be formulated as a solution, lotion, emulsion, microemulsion, cream or gel.
  • the formulation as a solution, emulsion or microemulsion with a water content of 50 to 90% by weight, based on the total agent, can be preferred.
  • the agents can be packaged in the form of foam aerosols.
  • Both the formulation with a liquefied gas as a blowing agent and in the form of so-called pump sprays are possible, in which the pressure required for spraying is built up by mechanical pumping. Nitrogen, air, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, isobutane, pentane and dimethyl ether are preferred blowing agents.
  • chlorofluorocarbons and chlorinated hydrocarbons are excellent propellants with regard to the aerosol properties achieved, their use as propellants in the agents according to the invention is less preferred due to the known ozone problem.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair.
  • the invention also relates to a method for treating hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair and remains there.
  • the invention also relates to a method for treating hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair and rinsed out again after an exposure time (0.5 to 40 minutes).
  • a 15 cm long strand of hair (Alkinco 6634, strand weight: 2 g) was treated with 0.3 g of the preparation to be examined and wound on a glass tube with an outer diameter of 2.0 cm, fixed and dried.
  • a measure of the stability of the curl obtained after pulling out the glass tube is the curl retention value, which is defined as [(ll x ) / (ll 0 )] * 100%, where 1 is the length of the strand of hair (15 cm) 1 0 is the length of the lock of hair immediately after drying and l x the length of the lock of hair after storage in a drying cabinet for an hour at constant conditions (25 ° C., 60% relative atmospheric humidity).
  • polyacrylic acid sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) (3V SIGMA) 2 compound made from a copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid sodium salt, isoparaffin and dodecyl alcohol + 7 EO (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C13-14-isoparaffin (and) Lauret-7) ( SEPPIC).
  • HOECHST dimethyldistearylammonium chloride
  • HENKEL dimethyldistearylammonium chloride

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations destinées au traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, qui contiennent une combinaison de substances constituées d'un homopolymère anionique A et d'un copolymère anionique B, avec au moins un comonomère non ionogène. Ces préparations ont un effet fixateur. Grâce à l'invention, on peut donc formuler des produits de traitement capillaire ayant de fortes propriétés fixatrices, qui ne contiennent aucun des composants de fixateurs habituels.
PCT/EP1996/002732 1995-07-03 1996-06-24 Preparation pour le traitement des fibres keratiniques WO1997002006A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE1995123596 DE19523596A1 (de) 1995-07-03 1995-07-03 Zubereitung zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern
DE19523596.7 1995-07-03

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1997002006A1 true WO1997002006A1 (fr) 1997-01-23

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PCT/EP1996/002732 WO1997002006A1 (fr) 1995-07-03 1996-06-24 Preparation pour le traitement des fibres keratiniques

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DE (1) DE19523596A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1997002006A1 (fr)

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EP1321129A1 (fr) * 2001-12-21 2003-06-25 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Gel pulvérisable pour cheveux
US7771710B2 (en) 2003-06-26 2010-08-10 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Powdered polymer, method for its preparation, and use as a thickener

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US6172019B1 (en) * 1999-09-09 2001-01-09 Colgate-Palmolive Company Personal cleanser comprising a phase stable mixture of polymers
WO2001035922A1 (fr) * 1999-11-19 2001-05-25 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau latex inverse et utilisation en cosmetique
FR2810883B1 (fr) 2000-06-28 2006-07-28 Seppic Sa Nouveaux latex inverses autoinversibles sur des esters d'acides gras, compositions cosmetiques, dermocosmetiques, dermopharmaceutiques ou pharmaceutiques en comportant
US6696067B2 (en) * 2001-04-12 2004-02-24 Ondeo Nalco Company Cosmetic compositions containing dispersion polymers
US6569413B1 (en) * 2001-04-12 2003-05-27 Ondeo Nalco Company Hair fixative composition containing an anionic polymer
FR2861397B1 (fr) 2003-10-22 2006-01-20 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau latex inverse concentre, procede pour sa preparation et utilisation dans l'industrie
FR2879607B1 (fr) 2004-12-16 2007-03-30 Seppic Sa Nouveaux latex inverse concentre, procede pour sa preparation, et utilisation dans l'industrie
DE102005020704A1 (de) * 2005-05-02 2006-11-09 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetikum für die Frisurgestaltung
DE102007053951A1 (de) 2007-11-09 2009-05-14 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Stylingmittel mit hohem Haltegrad bei Feuchtigkeit
FR2950060B1 (fr) 2009-09-11 2011-10-28 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau polymere en poudre, procede pour sa preparation et utilisation comme epaississant
FR2959746B1 (fr) 2010-05-06 2012-06-15 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau latex inverse auto-inversible, son utilisation comme agent epaississant dans une composition cosmetique
FR2986004B1 (fr) 2012-01-25 2014-03-14 Seppic Sa Nouveau polymere epaississant reduisant le caractere collant des formules cosmetiques a base de glycerine
FR2987361B1 (fr) 2012-02-29 2014-07-18 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau polymere d'acrylate de silicone et de methacrylate de trifluoro-ethyle, preparation et utilisation en cosmetique
FR2987839B1 (fr) 2012-03-08 2014-05-09 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau polymere d'acrylate de silicone et d'acide acrylique epaississant et reduisant le caractere collant des formules cosmetiques a base de glycerine
FR2992323B1 (fr) 2012-06-25 2015-07-03 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveau latex inverse auto-inversible exempt de tensioactif, son utilisation comme agent epaississant dans une composition cosmetique
FR3011464B1 (fr) 2013-10-07 2015-11-20 Snf Sas Utilisation en cosmetique de polymeres obtenus par polymerisation en emulsion inverse basse concentration avec un faible taux de monomeres neutralises
FR3024736B1 (fr) 2014-08-06 2016-08-26 Snf Sas Utilisation dans des compositions detergentes de polymeres obtenus par polymerisation en emulsion inverse basse concentration avec un faible taux de monomeres neutralises
WO2017151848A1 (fr) * 2016-03-03 2017-09-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Procédé pour laver les cheveux à l'aide d'une composition de soin capillaire à faible ph

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FR2710263A1 (fr) * 1993-09-21 1995-03-31 Oreal Composition, notamment cosmétique, comportant une émulsion de type huile-dans-l'eau .
US5474712A (en) * 1995-01-10 1995-12-12 Citra Science, Ltd. Livestock conditioning shampoo

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FR2710263A1 (fr) * 1993-09-21 1995-03-31 Oreal Composition, notamment cosmétique, comportant une émulsion de type huile-dans-l'eau .
US5474712A (en) * 1995-01-10 1995-12-12 Citra Science, Ltd. Livestock conditioning shampoo

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1321129A1 (fr) * 2001-12-21 2003-06-25 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Gel pulvérisable pour cheveux
US7771710B2 (en) 2003-06-26 2010-08-10 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Powdered polymer, method for its preparation, and use as a thickener

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