WO2014095166A2 - Compositions pour la mise en forme de fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Compositions pour la mise en forme de fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014095166A2
WO2014095166A2 PCT/EP2013/073681 EP2013073681W WO2014095166A2 WO 2014095166 A2 WO2014095166 A2 WO 2014095166A2 EP 2013073681 W EP2013073681 W EP 2013073681W WO 2014095166 A2 WO2014095166 A2 WO 2014095166A2
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formula
weight
polymer
composition according
weight ratio
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PCT/EP2013/073681
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German (de)
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WO2014095166A3 (fr
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Diane Metten
Bernd Richters
Rene Scheffler
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2014095166A2 publication Critical patent/WO2014095166A2/fr
Publication of WO2014095166A3 publication Critical patent/WO2014095166A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • compositions for shaping keratinic fibers are used.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers.
  • these cosmetic compositions in a cosmetic carrier contain a combination of at least one chitosan compound, at least one specific cationic polymer with imidazolinium residues and polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer.
  • Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component.
  • Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
  • hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
  • the most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent.
  • the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.
  • styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect.
  • synthetic polymers In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers.
  • the polymers when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, which is characterized by a high degree of hold and manages with a reduced amount of setting polymers. Furthermore, the agent should simultaneously have a flexible hold and show a high care performance.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer,
  • R is a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and - at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  • keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • polymers are understood as meaning compounds which are composed of a large number of molecules in which one or more types of atoms or atomic groups (so-called constitutive units, basic building blocks or repeating units) are repeatedly arranged next to one another and which has a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol have.
  • the polymers are obtained by polyreaction, the latter being synthetic (i.e., synthetic) or natural.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.
  • chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • bases Preferably used are those having a weight average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt% in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and have an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.
  • chitosans in addition to the chitosans as typical biopolymers, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as, for example, quaternization products) or alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable as derivatives of chitosan for the purposes of the invention.
  • cationically derivatized chitosans such as, for example, quaternization products
  • alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable as derivatives of chitosan for the purposes of the invention.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as chitosan at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, Pyrrolidoncarboxylic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric or mixtures of these acids.
  • This neutralization product can be prepared, for example, in an aqueous medium by adding chitosan and the corresponding organic carboxylic acid.
  • Suitable chitosans are, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% of active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% of glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight of 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available commercially.
  • Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% of active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% of glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol Cognis)
  • the chitosans or their derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.04% by weight to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.17% by weight to 0.75% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
  • compositions of the invention are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • the cationic polymer ii) comprises at least one polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M1 -a) additionally a structural element of the formula (M2)
  • these cationic polymers ii) again serve all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic polymers ii) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1), in particular according to formula (M1-a)) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M2).
  • the cationic polymers ii) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (M2) or formula (M1 - a) and (M2) in the polymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • Polyquaternium-16 N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
  • BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Style , Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ® Luviquat.RTM ® HM 552
  • Polyquaternium-16 is a very particularly preferred cationic polymer ii) according to the invention.
  • the said cationic polymers ii) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2% by weight to 1.8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.7 wt .-% to 1, 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
  • the agent according to the invention necessarily contains polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer as component iii). It is inventively preferred to select the polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers having a K value (1 wt .-% solution of PVP, Brookfield at 23 ° C) in water from 20 to 100.
  • K value is a parameter which can be easily determined from the relative viscosity by means of viscosity measurements of polymer solutions for the characterization of polymers.
  • Preferred polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers are available under the trade name Luviskol ® K 30, Luviskol ® K 80, Luviskol ® K 85, Luviskol ® K 90, respectively, by BASF SE.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer is preferably present in a total amount of from 0.02% by weight to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.08% by weight to 0.38% by weight, most preferably from 0, 12 wt .-% to 0.29 wt .-%, in the inventive composition.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer,
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and ii) at least one cationic polymer, based on the cationic polymer,
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic Carboxylic acid,
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and ii) polyquaternium-16
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair contained in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent i) in a total amount of from 0.04% by weight to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.17% by weight to 0.75% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.87% by weight, of at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) in one Total amount from 0.2 wt .-% to 1, 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1, 5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.7 wt .-% to 1 , 3% by weight, of at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer,
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair contained in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent i) in a total amount of from 0.04% by weight to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.17% by weight to 0.75% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.87% by weight, of at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and ii) in a total amount of 0.2 wt .-% to 1, 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 1, 5 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.7 wt % to 1.3% by weight of at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer,
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair contained in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent i) in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0 , 17% by weight to 0.75% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% to 0.87% by weight, of at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and ii) in a total amount of from 0.2% to 1, 8%, more preferably from 0.5% to 1, 5%, most preferably from 0.7% to 1% 1.3 wt.% Of at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer,
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair contained in a cosmetic carrier in each case based on the total weight of the agent i) in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0 , 17% by weight to 0.75% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% to 0.87% by weight, of at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and ii) in a total amount of from 0.2% to 1, 8%, more preferably from 0.5% to 1, 5%, most preferably from 0.7% to 1% 1, 3 wt .-%, Polyquaternium-16 and
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • compositions of the invention contain their active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, alcoholic cosmetic carrier or a aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier, alcoholic cosmetic carrier or a aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier.
  • such carriers are, for example, lotions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, creams, gels, foams, pomades, waxes or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • it is a water-containing cosmetic carrier or an aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier of the inventive composition contains water, so that the inventive composition at least 50 wt .-% water - based on the weight of the total composition - contains.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol or 1, 3-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one further fixing polymer.
  • the additional setting polymers of this embodiment of the composition according to the invention are different from the chitosan (derivatives) and the said cationic polymers ii) and polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer.
  • the setting polymers may be preferably nonionic, amphoteric or cationic charged, preferably nonionic or cationically charged.
  • Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner.
  • Film-forming polymers furthermore include those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the additional setting polymers are preferably in an amount of 0 wt .-% to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular from 0 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 to 0.25 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention contains no further fixing polymers. This again applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra).
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one consolidating nonionic polymer as additional strengthening polymer.
  • the strengthening nonionic polymers may in turn be selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed
  • An agent which comprises, as a consolidating nonionic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed
  • Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® VA 37, Luviskol ® VA 55, Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.
  • Such agents according to the invention are again preferred, based on the total weight of the agent total amount of additional copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, inclusive 0 wt .-% to 1, 0 wt .-%, particularly preferably including 0 to 0.5 wt .-%, are included. This applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra).
  • the agent of the invention no copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate. This in turn applies in particular in combination with one of the embodiments (A) to (H) (vide supra).
  • the compositions of the invention may contain as additional strengthening polymer at least one cationic, setting polymer.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • a cationic setting polymer suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M5) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M6)
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ', R "and R” independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 30 ) -alkyl group
  • X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group
  • n 1 or 3.
  • At least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (M2) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) and, if appropriate, at least one structural unit of the formula (V) is suitable as a preferably suitable cationic fixing polymer.
  • R and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • a and A 2 are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • R 7 is a (C 8 to C 30 ) alkyl group.
  • an inventive means as the above suitable cationic setting polymer at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (M2), at least one structural unit of formula (M3), at least one structural unit of formula (III) and at least a structural unit of the formula
  • R and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • X 1 and X 2 independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • a and A 2 are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • R 7 is a (C 8 to C 30 ) alkyl group
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, Tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55), which is available, for example, under the trade name Styleze W 10 or W 20 (W 10: 10 wt .-% of active substance or W 20: 20 wt .-% of active substance, in each case in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.
  • Dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ® 300 (28-32 wt .-% active ingredient in ethanol-water mixture) of the Company ISP is distributed.
  • the cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives are preferably suitable as setting polymers.
  • Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 ® by the company National Starch.
  • inventive agents are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c1), the at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M2) and at least one structural unit of formula ( M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)
  • the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M2), (M4) and (M12) in the copolymer a maximum of 5 wt. -%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c1) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1-a), (M2), (M4) and (M 12).
  • component (c1) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® Supreme available.
  • cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8)
  • those copolymers are preferred which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M6),
  • n 1 or 3.
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)
  • ISP Styleze CC-10
  • At least one surfactant in particular at least one cationic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic surfactant
  • surfactants can according to the invention already have emulsifying effect.
  • the additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • At least one zwitterionic surfactant may be added to the compositions according to the invention.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) - or - S0 3 ⁇ _) group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - C 2 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts .
  • suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acy
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,
  • nonionic surfactants are particularly preferably suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, which are selected from
  • the nonionic surfactants are preferably in a total amount of 0.005 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition, in the inventive composition.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably present as foam.
  • the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device which either represents an additional compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container
  • aerosol container an additional compressed gas container
  • non-aerosol container is defined as a container under normal pressure, with the aid of which a product is distributed by mechanical action through a pumping or squeezing system.
  • the agents according to the invention are present as aerosol foam in an aerosol container.
  • the agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
  • the embodiments (A) to (H) are considered to be preferably suitable, in an aerosol container with at least one propellant compound, compositions for providing an aerosol foam.
  • compositions according to the invention which are in the form of an aerosol product, can be prepared in a customary manner.
  • all constituents of the composition according to the invention with the exception of the blowing agent, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
  • suitable propellants are for example selected from N 2 0, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures.
  • alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
  • Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.
  • the quantities of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
  • aerosol foam products When conventional aerosol containers are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the propellant in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container.
  • at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane.
  • the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.
  • a second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention for the temporary reshaping and / or shape fixing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.
  • a third object of the invention is a method for the temporary transformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers.
  • the keratinic fibers are not rinsed and left on the fiber after the action of the cosmetic compositions of the first subject of the invention.
  • Cosmetic agent for the temporary transformation of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair contained in a cosmetic carrier i) at least one chitosan or its derivative and ii) at least one cationic polymer comprising, based on the cationic polymer, at least one structural unit of the formula (M1)
  • R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and - at least one structural unit of the formula (M2)
  • the ingredients i), ii) and iii) in a total amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-% are included and
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 1 characterized in that at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid is present as chitosan compound.
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 2 characterized in that the organic carboxylic acid is selected from lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 1 to 3 characterized in that the chitosan compounds in a total amount of 0.04 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, in particular preferably from 0, 17 wt .-% to 0.75 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.3 wt .-% to 0.87 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 4 characterized in that cationic polymer ii) at least one polymer is contained, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1-a) additionally comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M2)
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 6, characterized in that the cationic polymers ii), in each case based on the cationic polymer, contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% Structural units of the formula (M1), (in particular of the formula (M1-a)) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol% and in particular 80 mol% of structural units of the formula (M2).
  • Cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 7, characterized in that the cationic polymer ii) is polyquaternium-16.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of items 1 to 9, characterized in that based on the total weight of the agent, the polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymer in a total amount of 0.02 wt .-% to 0.9 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, From 08 wt .-% to 0.38 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.12 wt .-% to 0.29 wt .-%, is contained.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 10 characterized in that based on the total weight of the agent additional strengthening polymers in a total amount of 0 wt .-% to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular of 0 wt. % to 0.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 to 0.25 wt .-%, are included.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 1 1, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant.
  • the conditioned tress was carefully removed from the Teflon cylinder.
  • the resulting loop an annular structure of hair stabilized in shape by the formed polymer film, was clamped in the gripper attached to the load cell and lowered to just above the bottom plate of an AMETEK LF Plus universal tester manufactured by AMETEK Precision Instuments Europe GmbH, product group Lloyd.
  • the entire measurement was done in climate chamber under constant climatic conditions at 21 ° C and 50% relative humidity.
  • the measurement started with the start of a pre-load of 0.07 N at a speed of 30 mm min- 1, and then the loop was compressed by 8 mm at a speed of 60 mm min- 1 necessary force is measured. After the characteristic force F max has been recorded at the maximum deformation of 8 mm, the strand is relieved to 60 mm min "1 so that it lifts 10 mm from the bottom plate, from here the next cycle begins by again setting the preload of 0.07 N and the strand is then compressed by 8 mm, at the same speeds as described above.
  • the measurement of a loop comprises a total of 10 cycles.
  • the polymer combination E1 according to the invention provides (despite the use of a total of a smaller amount of fixing polymers) with 4.1 1 a significantly better stiffness of the hairstyle content than the non-inventive formulation V1.

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Abstract

Produits cosmétiques destinés à la mise en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques, notamment de cheveux humains, contenant, dans un excipient cosmétique, i) au moins un chitosane ou son dérivé, ii) au moins un polymère cationique comprenant, relativement au polymère cationique, au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M1), dans laquelle R représente un groupe alkyle (C1 à C4), notamment un groupe méthyle, et au moins un motif constitutif de formule (M2), et (iii) un homopolymère de polyvinylpyrrolidone, dans la mesure où, relativement au poids total du produit, les constituants i), ii) et iii) représentent une quantité totale de 0,5 à 3,0 % en poids, notamment de 0,5 à 2,5 % en poids, et le rapport pondéral des constituants i) et ii) se situe dans une fourchette de rapport pondéral de 1 à 5 à 1 à 1, de préférence de 1 à 3 à 1 à 1, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 2,5 à 1 à 1,5, et le rapport pondéral des constituants ii) et iii) se situe dans une fourchette de rapport pondéral de 10 à 1 à 2 à 1, de préférence de 6 à 1 à 4 à 1, plus préférentiellement de 5,5 à 1 à 4,5 à 1. Ces produits cosmétiques, malgré une quantité réduite de polymère fixateur, confèrent une tenue remarquable, en particulier lorsqu'ils sont appliqués sur les fibres kératiniques sous forme de mousse.
PCT/EP2013/073681 2012-12-20 2013-11-13 Compositions pour la mise en forme de fibres keratiniques WO2014095166A2 (fr)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20180028429A1 (en) * 2016-07-26 2018-02-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mixture of active ingredients for hairstyling compositions
GB2557388A (en) * 2016-07-07 2018-06-20 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Mixture of active ingredients for hairstyling compositions

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19805434C2 (de) * 1998-02-11 2000-02-03 Wella Ag Haarbehandlungsmittel mit fluorierten Säuren und Polymeren
DE102010055814A1 (de) * 2010-12-23 2012-06-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Zusammensetzungen zur Formgebung keratinischer Fasern

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2557388A (en) * 2016-07-07 2018-06-20 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa Mixture of active ingredients for hairstyling compositions
US20180028429A1 (en) * 2016-07-26 2018-02-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mixture of active ingredients for hairstyling compositions

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