Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/899—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing sulfur, e.g. sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
  • A45D40/08—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks with provision for sieves or shaping parts for sticks ends
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8123—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a halogen; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. PVC, PTFE
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
  • A45D2200/15—Temperature
  • A45D2200/155—Heating or cooling means, i.e. for storing or applying cosmetic products at a predetermined temperature
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
  • A45D40/18—Casings combined with other objects
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
  • A45D40/20—Pencil-like cosmetics; Simple holders for handling stick-shaped cosmetics or shaving soap while in use
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
  • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

• Cosmetic heating treatment method involving a structuring agent
• the present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of human keratin materials and more particularly the skin and / or lips.
• the lipstick appeared at the beginning of the last century, has today prevailed and is recognized by users as the mode of application plebiscite makeup of their lips. This mode of application offers users a choice in terms of lip coverage and color diversity.
• this dosage form must also meet the requirements of a mechanical part to ensure the sliding and holding of the stick during application and prevent it from breaking and secondly , transfer qualities to ensure a comfortable application and a sufficient deposit and good quality on the lips.
• the object of the invention is precisely to propose a new mode of make-up and / or care making it possible to satisfy all the aforementioned requirements.
• a method of makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of human keratinous materials, in particular the skin, the lips or the nails in which - it brings about contact or the vicinity of a heating device an outer surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition so as to heat said piece locally so as essentially to soften only said outer surface and to lower the dynamic coefficient of friction, and then apply the outer surface of the composition thus heated to the region to be treated, said solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 4% by weight of at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, organophilic clays, hydrophobic fumed silicas and guar gums. alkylated, hydrophobic celluloses, block copolymers and mixtures thereof, said composition being different of a composition defined as follows, the quantities being expressed as a percentage by weight:
• the subject of the present invention is a process for making and / or non-therapeutic care of non-fibrous human keratinous materials, in particular the skin, its mucous membranes or nails, comprising the steps of: bringing into contact or in the vicinity of a heating device an outer surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition so as to heat said piece locally so as essentially to soften only said outer surface and to lower the dynamic coefficient of friction and apply then the outer surface of the composition thus heated on the region to be treated, said solid cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one structuring agent chosen from waxes, organophilic clays, hydrophobic fumed silicas, alkylated guar gums, hydrophobic celluloses, block copolymers and mixtures thereof, and at least 10% by weight of glossy oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil being a hydrocarbon or silicone oil with a molecular mass greater than 400 g
• the method is a makeup process.
• the softened outer surface is brought into direct contact with the region to be treated, and in particular with keratin materials.
• solid especially at ambient temperature (for example 20 ° C.) means a composition of high consistency which retains its shape during storage, in particular which does not flow under its own weight.
• the outer surface may be defined as the end thereof.
• the process according to the present invention is such that the composition is in the form of a rod, in particular with a diameter greater than or equal to 8 mm.
• the method according to the present invention is such that the composition is a lipstick. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below.
• the invention relates to a kit comprising:
• a heating device for locally heating a surface of a piece of said composition.
• the piece of composition can be permanently in contact with or near the heating device and it can be activated prior to the application of the composition, to raise the temperature of the outer surface of the piece of composition.
• the composition piece is brought into contact with or near the heater for use only for application of the composition.
• the invention can be used to heat the surface, just before application, for example the top of the bevel of a lipstick rod made with a composition according to the invention, to allow the deposit, and this same if the rod contains compounds unsuitable for a satisfactory cold application, these compounds providing increased performance in terms of strength and / or gloss.
• the composition used according to the invention has a coefficient of dynamic friction sensitive to temperature, greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25 ° C., better still greater than or equal to 0.6 at 25 ° C. C.
• the solid composition advantageously has a hardness greater than or equal to 80 Nm -1 at 20 ° C., better still greater than or equal to 100 Nm -1 , or even 120 Nm -1 at 20 ° C., which makes the rod resistant to the mechanical plane and allows its packaging for example in a conventional case comprising two parts that can rotate relative to each other to move the rod.
• the dynamic coefficient of friction may be, at the temperature at which the composition is heated, less than or equal to 0.45, better to 0.4.
• the dynamic coefficient of friction that is greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25 ° C. can thus become, for example, less than or equal to 0.45 at 45 ° C., that is to say reach a value comparable to certain reds at known lips intended for application at 25 ° C.
• the invention can be applied to a product stick comprising a quantity of texturing agent such that its application cold and / or without heating is difficult, almost impossible or unpleasant.
• the application after heating becomes possible, with comfort performance or even brightness in view of the presence of the oils it contains particularly advantageous.
• the product can be heated in various ways, for example by being exposed to infrared radiation or radio radiation.
• the product can be further heated by blowing hot air, being exposed to ultrasonic vibrations or by heat transfer in contact with or near a hot surface, which for example bears radially against the outer surface, particularly end of the stick.
• the hot surface may also bear axially against the outer surface, in particular the end of the stick.
• the hot surface may have a shape of bevel, inverted cone or concave hollow, including spherical.
• the outer surface of the product may be heated to a temperature Tf greater than or equal to 40 ° C., or even greater than 45 ° C. or even greater than 50 ° C.
• the outer surface may be heated to a temperature Tf of between 40 ° C. and 95 ° C., more preferably 45 ° C. to 85 ° C., more preferably 45 ° C. to 75 ° C.
• the temperature of the application surface, especially the end of the stick, should not cause a risk of burning at the time of application. This is why a waiting time between the moment when the end is heated and the application to the keratin materials may possibly be necessary.
• the temperature difference between the heated outer surface and the portion of the product which remains solid may be greater than or equal to 5 ° C., better still greater than or equal to 15 ° C. or 20 ° C., at least at the beginning of the application, even greater than 30 ° C.
• the heater may be housed in a closure cover of the carrier, so as to allow the outer surface with the hood to be in place on the carrier.
• the heating device can also be housed elsewhere than in a closure cap of the support.
• the heating device can be housed in a housing on which the support can be engaged so that heating can take place when the support is engaged in the housing, in particular a housing having an opening in which the piece of solid product can to be engaged, preferably without the entire support being disposed inside the housing.
• the heating device may be integral with the packaging and application device.
• the heater may be arranged to engage the outer surface.
• the heating device may be arranged to be traversed by the piece of product, including a hot surface of annular shape.
• the heater may include control means to allow the user to control its operation. This control means may comprise a switch present on the support or on a closure cover of the support.
• the heater may include an electrical resistor for heating a surface that can contact or be near the application surface.
• the heating device may comprise an infrared emitter arranged to subject the application surface to infrared light in order to heat it, and a radio-frequency emission means for raising the temperature of the outer surface, a blower to blow hot air on the outer surface or a source of ultrasound to warm the outer surface.
• the heating device may also comprise at least two components capable of producing, when mixed, an exothermic reaction.
• the piece of product may be rod-shaped and the outer surface defined by the end of the stick.
• the heating device may comprise a source of electrical energy comprising one or more batteries or accumulators.
• the heater may include a user operated electric generator.
• the heating device may comprise means for heating the piece of composition to a predetermined temperature, despite wear of said piece.
• This means may comprise an elastically deformable member, which provides contact or a constant separation between the outer surface to be heated and the heating device, compensating for the wear of the piece of composition.
• These means may also include, where appropriate, a temperature sensor that adjusts the heating power, for example increase if the outer surface is further away from the heat source.
• a temperature sensor that adjusts the heating power, for example increase if the outer surface is further away from the heat source.
• the product S whose dynamic coefficient of friction is to be evaluated is cut at one end with a 250 ⁇ m diameter tungsten wire by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min and perpendicular to its longitudinal axis so as to have a flat contact surface parallel to the sliding surface W.
• a normal force Fn is applied to the sliding surface W by means of a weight.
• This weight is such that the pressure exerted on the surface of the product S in contact with W is 7.9 ⁇ 10 -3 MPa
• the product may be in the form of a cylindrical rod of revolution.
• the stick In the case where the cross section of the rod is not circular, the stick is slid in the direction of the minor axis of its section, moving the major axis parallel to itself.
• the coefficient of friction is defined as the ratio of the tangential force
• the tangential force Ft then decreases to generally reach a more stable regime.
• the coefficient of friction is a dimensionless quantity, a function of the two surfaces in contact and the conditions of contact.
• the sliding surface is defined by the artificial skin, reference "BIO SKIN Plate Black K275" from MACREPOS, of width equal to or greater than that of the section of the stick.
• the artificial skin is placed on a support that can be heated to the temperature at which it is desired to measure the coefficient of dynamic friction.
• the artificial skin thus heated for example at 45 ° C., if the measurement is to be carried out at 45 ° C., is applied to the stick initially at a temperature of 25 ° C.
• the surface temperature of the artificial skin can be controlled. with an optical thermometer.
• the dynamic friction coefficient of a composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.6 or 0.7 or 0.8, at 25 0 C.
• the coefficient of dynamic friction at 25 0 C compositions according to the invention may be less than or equal to 5.
• the stick may have a diameter of 12.7 mm at its area of contact with the sliding surface, but other values are possible, ranging for example from 7 mm to 50 mm.
• compositions considered according to the invention are relatively hard at room temperature and, under the action of heat, become sufficiently soft to be applicable.
• the hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread” method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. 250 ⁇ m diameter by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. Hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by the wire on the stick at 20 ° C., this force being measured by means of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from Indelco-Chatillon. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged.
• the average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter in meters.
• the hardness at 20 ° C. of examples of composition according to one aspect of the invention is greater than 80 Nm "1 in particular greater than 100 Nm, preferably greater than 120 Nm " 1 .
• a composition of the invention is cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable, ie contains a physiologically acceptable non-toxic medium that can be applied to the lips of humans.
• cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch, suitable for use in cosmetics.
• composition according to the invention contains at least one structuring agent.
• structuring agent is meant a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the composition incorporating it.
• the structuring agent makes it possible in particular to obtain a composition that can present a texture ranging from fluid to solid textures.
• a structuring agent or mixture of structuring agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 4 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 4 to 30% by weight.
• the process according to the invention is particularly advantageous for the application of a composition comprising from 4 to 25% by weight of structuring agent (s).
• the structuring agent according to the invention is chosen from: - the waxes,
• alkyl guar gums (with C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP-A-708114;
• - block copolymers in particular resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of at least one ethylenic group monomer, such as polymers sold under the name Kraton ®, and - mixtures thereof.
• it is selected from waxes, fumed silica, organophilic clays, block copolymers such as Kraton ® and mixtures thereof.
• the structuring agent is a mixture of pyrogenic waxes and silicas and / or organophilic clays.
• the wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
• 0 C can go up to 200 0 C and in particular up to 120 0 C.
• the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.
• the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.
• the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of
• the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
• the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
• Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes (such as the one sold under the reference Microwax HW by Paramelt), paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes such as those sold under the name Performalene 500-L and Performalene 400 by New Phase Technologies, the waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis.
• waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains there may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
• isomerized jojoba oil such as the partially hydrogenated trans-isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50 ®, sunflower oil hydrogenated and hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, and tetrastearate di- (trimethylol-l, l, l propane) sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company HETERENE.
• silicone waxes C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE
• fluorinated waxes C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE
• a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, can be used.
• Such a wax is especially sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P ® ", “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® “ and “Kester Wax K 80 P ® “, and “Kester Wax K 82 H ® " by the company Koster Keunen.
• microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350 ® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the micro synthetic wax such as that sold under the name MicroEase 114S ® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 ® and 310 ® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that sold under the name micro Care 325 ® by the company mICRO POWDERS, the micro waxes of polyethylene such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ®, 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetraf micro waxes luoroethylene such as those sold under the names Microslip 519 ®
• inorganic lipophilic gelling agents there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company
• fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic surface whose particle size is less than 1 micron. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica.
• a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
• the hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
• Silicas thus treated are named "Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8 th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812 ® by Degussa,
• Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8 th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972 ® , and Aerosil R974 ® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 ® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ® by CABOT.
• the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are for example cellulose derivatives such as ethyl cellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel ® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six, particularly two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated alkyl chain or not, such as guar gum alkylated with alkyl chains to C 6, and in particular C 1 to C 3 and mixtures thereof.
• cellulose derivatives such as ethyl cellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel ® by Dow Chemical
• galactomannans comprising from one to six, particularly two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated alkyl chain or not, such as guar gum alkylated with alkyl chains to C 6, and in particular C 1 to C 3 and mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based block copolymer also called block copolymer, preferably a block copolymer which is soluble or dispersible in a liquid fatty phase.
• block copolymer also called block copolymer, preferably a block copolymer which is soluble or dispersible in a liquid fatty phase.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534.
• the copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 0 0 C, preferably less than or equal to -20 0 C, more preferably less than or equal to -40 0 C.
• the glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 0 C and 20 0 C, especially between 100 0 C and 0 0 C.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin.
• the olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer.
• ethylenic carbide monomers especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene. .
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.
• block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.
• the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks.
• diblock copolymer preferably hydrogenated
• Diblock polymers are sold under the name Kraton ® G 170 IE by Kraton Polymers.
• triblock copolymer preferably hydrogenated
• styrene, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers.
• Triblock polymers are sold under the names Kraton Gl 650 ®, Kraton ® G 1652, Kraton ® D1101, Kraton ® Dl 102, Kraton Dl 160 ® by the company Kraton Polymers.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.
• the structuring agents considered according to the invention are most generally required when the compositions they structure, comprise at least one oil which is particularly sought to control the migrant character to ensure contour makeup (s). ) net (s) on the keratin material considered.
• a composition according to the present invention may contain at least one oil.
• oil means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 10 5 Pa).
• a composition according to the invention may comprise an oil content (s) ranging from 5 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 5 to 60% by weight and from preferably from 5 to 50%.
• a composition according to the present invention may comprise less than 20% by weight of fluid oil as defined below, in particular less than 10% by weight or less than 5% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition or is free of fluid oil.
• the composition is free of any oil and in particular of fluid oil and gloss oil as defined below.
• fluid oil designates an oil having a molecular mass of less than 400 g / mol, and in particular ranging from 100 to 390 g / mol.
• This oil can be volatile or not.
• This oil can be hydrocarbon or silicone.
• volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).
• non-volatile oil means an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 " mmHg (0.13 Pa).
• a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 2% or even less than 1% of volatile oil or is completely free of volatile oil.
• volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes in the form of Cs-Ci 6 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffms) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the names Isopar or permetyl derivatives, C 6 -C 6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
• volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes in the form of Cs-Ci 6 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffms) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pent
• volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by Shell, can also be used; volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
• volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane; synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms
• the liquid alcohol at room temperature branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol as marketed under the commercial reference Eutanol G ® by Cognis;
• fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; carbonates; - acetates; citrates; silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); and their mixtures.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• a composition according to the invention may contain at least one glossy oil.
• brilliant oil according to the invention is understood to mean a hydrocarbon or silicone oil with a molecular mass greater than 400 g / mol or even
• this glossy oil may have a molar mass ranging from 400 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular from 650 to 10,000 g / mol and more particularly ranging from 650 to 5,000 g / mol.
• a composition comprises a sufficient amount of glossy oil (s) to provide at least one gloss-like makeup performance.
• a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of oil (s)) brilliant (s) ranging from 0 to 20%, for example from 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition.
• This shiny oil can be polar or apolar.
• This glossy oil is advantageously an oil chosen from high molecular weight oils having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from 500 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular from 500 to 8000 g / mol and more particularly from 550 to 7500 g / mol. g / mol.
• the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6.
• the gloss oil is preferably a non-volatile oil.
• lipophilic polymers such as:
• diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of the general formula HO-R1C-OCO-f1 -COO-R4VOH, in which:
• R 1 represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid
• R 2 is a radical of hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid
• h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleyl dimer diols sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the tradename Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and DD -DA7 ® ,
• the hydrocarbon glossy oil may also be a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride oligomer and saturated diacid.
• Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid.
• a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride such as hydrogenated castor oil
• the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain unsaturation, namely carbon-carbon double bond.
• the term "diacid” means a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions -COOH.
• the diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids.
• the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers.
• saturated diacids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid. .
• the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) diacid:
• R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms
• R 2 represents an alkyl group saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched comprising for example 1 to 12 carbon atoms
• R 1 preferably represents a group - (CH 2 ) D-, where n can vary from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12;
• R 2 preferably represents a group - (CH 2 ) m CH 3, where m can vary from 0 to 11 and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9;
• Xi is a linear or branched alkylene group such as, for example, a linear alkylene group - (CH 2 ) X -, where x can vary from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15. When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8.
• the average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12.
• the oligoester hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization.
• the glossy oil may also be an oil chosen from silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name
• silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name
• it is a hydrocarbon oil.
• a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase, for example at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 60% by weight, in particular at least 70% by weight, or even at least 80% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• This phase may contain, in addition to at least one oil as defined above, at least one pasty compound.
• the term "pasty” is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction. and a solid fraction.
• the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
• the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
• the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
• the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form.
• the pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
• the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 0 C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999.
• DS C differential scanning calorimeter
• the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
• the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it exhibits at 23 ° C., consisting of a liquid fraction and a liquid fraction. solid fraction.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound.
• the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
• the heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
• the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
• the pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: i) lanolin and its derivatives, ii) polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, iii) polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, iv) vinyl polymers, in particular:
• alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group
• homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups and v) liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more several C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50 diols, vi) esters, vii) and mixtures thereof.
• esters of an oligomeric glycerol in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the form of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, especially as sold under the trademark Softisan 649 ® by the company Sasol,
• non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,
• esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic acid and of a hydroxylated aliphatic ester may result from the esterification of a) a monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic aliphatic acid, and b) a hydroxylated aliphatic ester, especially a hydroxy carboxylic acid ester.
• diol dimer and diacid dimer esters if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl especially sold under the trade name Plandool-G ® by the company Nippon Fine Chemical,
• RISOCAST-D AL sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO
• hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN 0IL or a mixture thereof.
• the content of pasty compound can range from 5 to 90% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% by weight, or even in certain embodiments from 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise other compounds in particular as defined below. It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention.
• compositions may also comprise at least one polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding.
• Polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting via hydrogen bonds
• the polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and better still ranging from 8% to 45% by weight, for example ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding may belong to the following two families: 1) polymers comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or
• polymers comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
• polymer means a compound having at least
• repeating units in the sense of the invention a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, bearing hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms. which can be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These motifs further include each of one to several non-pendant heteroatoms in the polymeric backbone. These heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus and silicon atoms and their combinations, optionally associated with one or more oxygen atoms.
• these groups are chosen from amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof.
• polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference ; in particular resins of polyamides (in particular comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 the content of which is incorporated by reference; silicone polyamide resins as described in the EP application
• organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one carboxyl group, and preferably organopolysiloxanes comprising at least two carboxyl groups, per unit.
• Such polymers comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding are described in particular in applications EP-A-1400234, the contents of which are incorporated by reference and are described in more detail below.
• the polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding is a silicone polyamide.
• the silicone polyamides are preferably solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention may be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for instance those described in documents US Pat. No. 5,874,069, US Pat. No. 5,919,441, US Pat. No. 6,051,216 and US Pat. No. 5,981,680.
• the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: (1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or
• polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
• the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose amide units are arranged in the polymer chain.
• the silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula I:
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain a or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, C 6 -C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups; at C 4 , the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms,
• X which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,
• Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl groups Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl, Ci to C3 amino and alkyl Ci to C 6, or
• Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
• T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a chosen trivalent atom; from N, P and Al, and - R 8 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide groups, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide which may or may not be bound to another polymer chain,
• n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.
• 80% of the R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. In another embodiment, 80% of the R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , of the polymer are methyl groups.
• Y represents a group chosen from: a) C 1 to C 20 , preferably C 1 to C 10 , linear alkylene groups, b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise rings and unsaturated C 3 to C 56 unsaturations, c) C 6 -C 6 cycloalkylene groups; d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 40 alkyl groups; e) C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having from 1 to 5 amide groups; C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamines, and g) polyorganosiloxane chains of the formula:
• R 4, R 5, R 7, R 7, T and m are as defined above.
• the silicone polyamides may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):
• R, 10 represents a group as defined above for R and R, or represents the group of formula -XG "-R, 12 in which X are as defined above for formula (I) and R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 50 hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms; and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or phenyl optionally substituted by one or several alkyl groups in C 4, and G "represents -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) -.
• R 11 represents the group of formula -XG "-R 12 in which X, G" and R 12 are as defined above, mi is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and m 2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
• the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II).
• the copolymer may also be formed of several units of formula (II), in which at least one of R 4 , R 6 , R 10 , R 11 , mi and m 2 is different in at least one of the units.
• (II) may be the same or different from each other.
• a silicone polyamide comprising in addition at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane and thiourea groups. , oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations.
• copolymers may be block polymers, block polymers or graft polymers.
• the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:
• the alkylene groups may also be substituted by at least one member selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, one to three C1-alkyl groups at C40, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three alkyl groups
• Y may also represent:
• R 8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain
• T represents a group of formula
• a, b and c are independently integers ranging from 1 to 10 and R is a hydrogen atom or a group as defined for R 4, R 5, R 6 and R 7.
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C 1 -C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H group. 5 , n-CsHy or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
• the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (I) or (II).
• the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to formula (III):
• the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.
• the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys.
• the polymer can meet the formula IV:
• R 4 to R 7 , X, Y, Hi 1 , m 2 , n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y.
• the various units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.
• the silicone polymer may also consist of a graft copolymer.
• the silicone-containing polyamide may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups.
• Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
• the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains.
• the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above.
• the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
• a copolymer of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon polyamide ie a copolymer comprising units of formula (I) or (II) and hydrocarbon polyamide units.
• the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.
• the composition comprises at least one polyamide / polydimethylsiloxane polymer, in particular a polymer of general formula (I) having an index m with a value greater than 50, in particular greater than 75, in particular between 50 and 200, and for example with about 100.
• the silicone polyamide of formula (I) has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
• X and Y independently represent a group selected from linear alkylene groups -C 20, preferably C 10 -C.
• the polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in application WO 2003/106614.
• the first composition may contain, in place of the silicone polyamide, a polyorganosiloxane polymer containing two or more urethane and / or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or pendant groups.
• the polymers comprising at least two urethane and / or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula:
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents -O- or -NH-, so that: -U- C - -NH -
• O corresponds to a urethane or urea group.
• Y may be a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group optionally substituted by a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group.
• a - (CH 2 ) O- group is used.
• the polymer constituting the silicone polymer may be formed of silicone urethane and / or silicone-urea units of different length and / or constitution, and may be in the form of random or random block or block copolymers.
• silicone polyamides of formula (I), (II) or (III) polyurethanes or silicone polyureas having patterns of different length and structure, in particular length patterns, may be used in the invention. different by the number of silicone units.
• the polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C.
• they Preferably, they have a transition temperature of solid state in the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130 ° C. and better still from 80 ° C. to 105 ° C.
• the silicone polyamide may be present in the first composition in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and better ranging from From 8% to 45% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight of the total weight of said composition.
• the polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding is a weight average molecular weight polymer of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon repeat units. provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference ; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657, the content of which is incorporated by reference,
• the polymer according to the invention is a non-deformable solid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
• the term "functionalized chains” is intended to mean an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, groups whose fluorinated or perfluorinated groups are ester.
• the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains may be substituted at least partially by fluorine atoms.
• the hydrocarbon-repeating units comprise at least one nitrogen atom, in particular not during. These units also advantageously comprise a carbonyl group.
• the heteroatom units are in particular amide units forming a polyamide backbone, carbamate and / or urea units forming a polyurethane, polyurea and / or polyurea-urethane backbone. Preferably, these units are amide units.
• the pendant chains are linked directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymeric backbone. This polymer may comprise between the hydrocarbon units of the oxyalkylenated units.
• this polymer of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 40 to 98% of fatty chains relative to the total number of units with hetero atoms and fatty chains and better still from 50 to 95%.
• the nature and proportion of the heteroatom units is a function of the nature of the fatty phase and is in particular similar to the polar nature of the fatty phase.
• the higher the heteroatom units are polar and in high proportion in this polymer, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms the more this polymer has affinity with polar oils.
• the more the units with hetero atoms are not very polar or even apolar or in a low proportion, the more this polymer has affinity with apolar oils.
• This polymer is advantageously a polyamide.
• the invention also relates to a composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyamide polymer having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone, having amide repeating units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal chain having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these amide units.
• the pendant fatty chains are bonded to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of this polymer.
• the fatty chains of this polyamide represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and better still from 50 to 95%.
• this polymer, and in particular this polyamide, of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 (in particular ranging from 1,000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000.
• This polymer and in particular this polyamide, is unsaturated in water, especially at 25 ° C. In particular, it does not contain an ionic group.
• Preferred polymers which can be used in the invention include polyamides branched by pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and especially from 12 to 68 atoms. of carbon, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the polyamide backbone by at least one linking group, in particular an ester group.
• these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer backbone and in particular the polyamide backbone.
• Other linking groups that may be mentioned include ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiurea and thiourethane groups.
• These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms (having in particular from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) with an amine chosen from diamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (especially from 2 to 36 carbon atoms).
• the diacid is preferably a dimer derived from ethylenically unsaturated fatty acid having at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid.
• the diamine is preferably ethylene diamine, hexylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine.
• the triamine is, for example, ethylene triamine.
• a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 24, and more preferably from 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms.
• n denotes an integer number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups;
• R 1 is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and especially 4 to 24 carbon atoms;
• R 2 is independently at each occurrence a C 4 to C 42 hydrocarbon group provided that 50% of the R 2 groups are a C 30 to C 42 hydrocarbon group;
• R3 independently represents an organic group having at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and
• R 4 represents at each occurrence independently a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R 3 or another R 4 such that the nitrogen atom to which R 3 is bonded together and R 4 is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R 4 - N-R 3, with at least 50% of the R 4 representing a hydrogen atom.
• the terminal fatty chains optionally functionalized within
• ester groups of formula (I), which are part of the terminal and / or pendant fatty chains within the meaning of the invention, represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and better still from 20 to 35%.
• n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and better still greater than 2.
• R 1 is a C 12 to C 22 and preferably C 16 to C 22 alkyl group.
• R 2 can be a C 10 to C 42 hydrocarbon (alkylene) group.
• at least 50% and more preferably at least 75% of the R 2 are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms.
• the other R 2 groups are hydrogenated C 4 to C 19 and even C 4 to C 2.
• R 3 represents a C 2 to C 36 hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylene group and R 4 represents a hydrogen atom.
• R3 represents a hydrocarbon group in
• the hydrocarbon groups may be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups.
• the alkyl and alkylene groups can be linear or branched groups, saturated or not.
• the polymers of formula (I) are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) in which n is 0, that is to say a diester.
• polymers comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding that may be used in the compositions according to the invention
• mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. are sold respectively as 80% gel (active ingredient) in a mineral oil and 100% (active ingredient). They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C.
• These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 di-acid condensed on ethylene diamine, with a weight average molecular weight of approximately 6000.
• the terminal ester groups result esterification of the remaining acid termini with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also referred to as cetylstearyl alcohol).
• polystyrene resins As a polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting by hydrogen bonding that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of the polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including the compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amino groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary units being fused by an amide bond.
• polyamide resins include those marketed under the brand Versamid ® by General Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the trademark Onamid ®, in particular Onamid S or C.
• These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000.
• weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000.
• these polyamides can be referred to US-A-3,645,705 and US-A-3,148,125. More specifically, Versamid ® 930 or 744 are used.
• polyamide resins such as those described in US-A-5,783,657 and US-A-5,998,570.
• the polymer present in the composition according to the invention advantageously has a softening temperature greater than 65 ° C. and up to 190 ° C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature ranging from 70 to 130 ° C. and better still 80 to 105 ° C.
• compositions may also comprise at least one additional polymer.
• compositions according to the invention may contain an additional polymer, which may or may not be film-forming.
• polymeric film a polymer capable of forming alone or in the presence of an auxiliary filtering agent, a macroscopically continuous deposition on keratin materials.
• the composition can comprise an aqueous phase and the additional polymer may be present in this aqueous phase. In this case it will preferably be a dispersion polymer or an amphiphilic or associative polymer.
• aqueous dispersion polymers can be used: Ultrasol 2075 from Ganz Chemical, Daitosol 5000AD from Daito Kasei, Avalon UR 450 from Noveon, DYNAMX from National Starch, Syntran 5760 from Interpolymer, Acusol OP 301 from Rohm & Haas, Neocryl A 1090 from Avecia.
• Neocryl XK-90 ® The acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90 ®, Neocryl A-1070 ®, Neocryl A-1090 ®, Neocryl BT-62 ®, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl ® A-523 ® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432 ® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD ® or Daitosol 5000 SJ ® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 ® by the company Interpolymer, Soltex OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trade name Joncryl ® by the company Johnson Polymer, or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981 ® and Neorez R-974 ® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure
• amphiphilic or associative polymers polymers having one to several hydrophilic moieties which render them partially soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic moieties through which the polymers associate or interact.
• the following associative polymers can be used: Nuvis FX1100 from Elementis, Aculyn 22, Aculyn 44, Aculyn 46 from Rohm & Haas, Viscophobe DB1000 from Amerchol.
• Diblock copolymers consisting of a hydrophilic block (polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol) and a hydrophobic block (polystyrene, polysiloxane, can also be used.
• the composition may comprise an oily phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this oily phase.
• the polymer may then be in dispersion or in solution.
• non-aqueous dispersions of lipo-dispersible thermoplastic polymer in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles in one or more silicone and / or hydrocarbon oils and which can be stabilized at their surface by at least one stabilizing agent, in particular a block polymer, grafted or statistical
• a stabilizing agent in particular a block polymer, grafted or statistical
• acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomère PAP ® from Chimex
• polymeric polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
• radical-forming polymeric polymer is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
• the radical-type polymeric polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic, especially acrylic polymers.
• Vinyl-based polymer polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.
• ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
• the acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl (meth) acrylates. preferably C 1 -C 20 , (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of hydroxy C 2 -C 6 alkyl.
• the film-forming polymer may be chosen from block and random polymers and / or copolymers comprising in particular polyurethanes, polyacrylics, silicones, fluorinated polymers, butyl gums, copolymers of ethylene, natural gums and polyvinyl alcohols and their mixtures.
• Vinyl-based polymer polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers.
• vinyl esters examples include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
• Styrenic monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
• film-forming polycondensates mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.
• the polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their polyurethanes. mixtures.
• the polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by poly-condensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.
• the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer).
• the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil.
• a fat-soluble polymer mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms) an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group); .
• vinyl ester copolymers the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbon
• copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl.
• crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl.
• liposoluble polymeric polymers of vinyl ester copolymers and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester, in particular vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate, an ⁇ olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, or an allylic or methallyl ester.
• fat-soluble liposoluble polymers of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
• liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of vinyl polylaurate. , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.
• the liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2 232 303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
• Liposoluble polymeric polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical, for example. ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.
• the composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.
• composition according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer with an organic structure whose melting point is greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
• the total amount of semicrystalline polymer (s) represents from 0.1 to 45% of the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.5 to 40%, for example from 1 to 35% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1 to 20%, or from 3 to 30%, 5 to 30%, or even 15 to 30%. Preferably, it represents from 2% to 10% by weight of the composition.
• the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.
• the term "semicrystalline polymer” is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular for melting.
• the crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.
• the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone
• this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences;
• the semicrystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type.
• the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone
• the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
• organic compound or "organic structure” means compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination.
• the melting temperature of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C.
• the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and less than 70 ° C.
• the semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), the melting point of which is greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
• the values of melting point correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 0 C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).
• the semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.
• the semicrystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point.
• the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.
• chain or crystallizable block is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature.
• a chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer.
• a sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
• the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.
• the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.
• Semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains are homo or copolymers.
• the semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequential or multisequenced. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.
• the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
• the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:
• homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain (s),
• polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,
• copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis.
• the semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:
• polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis,
• the one or more side chains or crystallizable blocks are hydrophobic.
• homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.
• homo- or co-polymers are of any kind as long as they have the conditions indicated below with in particular the characteristic of being soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase, by heating above their melting temperature. They can result from: - the radical polymerization of one or more monomers with double (s) reactive bond (s) or ethylenic vis-à-vis a polymerization, namely a vinyl group, (meth) ) acrylic or allylic.
• the crystallizable units (chains or sequences) of the semicrystalline polymers according to the invention come from monomer (s) with a sequence (s) or crystallizable chain (s), used for the manufacture of semi-crystalline polymers.
• These polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer (s) which may be represented by the formula X: M with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, C representing a crystallizable group, and S representing a spacer
• Crystallizable "-SC” chains may be aliphatic or aromatic, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated.
• C represents in particular a linear or branched or cyclic (CH 2 ) D group, with n being an integer ranging from 12 to 40.
• n being an integer ranging from 12 to 40.
• C is a linear group.
• S and C are different.
• the crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise hydrocarbon alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. These include aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably these are C14-C24, preferably C16-C22 alkyl chains. When it is fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chains, they comprise at least 11 carbon atoms of which at least 6 carbon atoms are fluorinated.
• the crystallizable hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated chains as defined above are borne by a monomer which may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
• Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylene groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene), a hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth) acrylamide, a alkyl (meth) acrylamide, an N, N-dialkyl (meth) acrylamide, for example NN-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer carrying at least one carboxylic acid group; such as (meth) acrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric or carboxylic acid anhydride groups such as maleic anhydride, and
• Y is a non-polar monomer it may be a branched or cyclic linear alkyl (meth) acrylate ester, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or alkyl substituted styrene. in
• C 1 -C 10 such as ⁇ -methylstyrene, a vinyl-unsaturated polyorganosiloxane macromonomer.
• alkyl is meant within the meaning of the invention a saturated group including Cs to C 24 , except express mention.
• the semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, including -C 4 -C 24, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and mixtures thereof.
• the crystallizable side chain semi-crystalline polymer (s) have a weight average molecular weight Mw ranging from 5,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 800,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, of still preferably from 100,000 to 200,000.
• the composition according to the invention As a specific example of usable semi-crystalline polymer in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made Intelimer ® products from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) . These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains and have the above formula X. These are (C 10 -C 30) alkyl polyacrylates, which are particularly suitable as semi-crystalline polymers that can be included in a composition according to the present invention. These The polymers may in particular have a molecular weight ranging from 15,000 to 500,000, preferably from 100,000 to 200,000.
• the semicrystalline polymers may especially be those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911 and more particularly of the copolymerization:
• the semicrystalline polymers may in particular be semi-crystalline crystalline pendant chain polymers containing fluorinated groups as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-01/19333.
• Semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP as described in US-A-5 519 063 or EP-A-550 745 can also be used.
• Semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP, as described in US-A-5, 519,063 and EP-A-0 550 745, may also be used. more especially those described in Examples 3 and 4, hereinafter, of polymer preparation.
• polymers which are soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase by heating above their melting point M.sub.p are especially block copolymers consisting of at least two sequences of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.
• the polymer carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone may be chosen from block copolymers of olefin or cycloolefin with a crystallizable chain such as those resulting from the sequential polymerization of: cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (ie say bicyclo (2,2,1) heptene-2), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene,
• copoly (ethylene / norbornene) blocks and terpolymers (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene norbornene), blocks It is also possible to use those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 ⁇ -olefins in C 2 -C 16 and better still in C 2 -C 12 such as those mentioned above and in particular the block bipolymers of ethylene and of 1 octene.
• the polymer carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone may be chosen from copolymers having at least one crystallizable block, the rest of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may, in addition, have two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature.
• the preferred copolymers are those which have at both room temperature, a crystallizable block and a lipophilic amorphous sequence sequentially distributed. Mention may be made, for example, of polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks:
• polyester type such as poly (alkylene terephthalate), or polyolefin type such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes.
• Amorphous and lipophilic sequence such as amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefins) such as poly (isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene).
• crystallizable block and amorphous block copolymers mention may be made of: ⁇ ) poly ( ⁇ -caprolactone) -b-poly (butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in article D6 "Melting behavior of poly (-caprolactone) -block-polybutadiene copolymers" of S Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999).
• ⁇ ) block or multiblocked hydrogenated poly (butylene terephthalate) -b-poly (isoprene) block copolymers cited in article D7 "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B.
• the polyester polycondensates may be chosen from aliphatic polyesters. Their molecular mass is preferably greater than or equal to 200 and less than or equal to 10,000, and more preferably greater than or equal to 300 and less than or equal to 5000, preferably greater than or equal to 500 and greater than or equal to
• the polyester polycondensates are in particular chosen from polycaprolactones.
• the polycaprolactones may be chosen from homopolymers of ⁇ -caprolactones. Homopolymerization can be initiated with a diol, especially a diol having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as diethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol.
• polycaprolactones especially those marketed under the name CAPA 240 (mp 68 ° C. and molecular weight 4000), 223 (mp 48 ° C. and molecular weight 2000), 222 ( melting point of 48 ° C. and molecular weight of 2000), 217 (melting point of 44 ° C. and molecular weight of 1250), 2125 (melting point of 45 ° C. and molecular weight of 1250), 212 (melting point of 45 ° C. and molecular weight of 1000), 210 (melting point of 38 ° C. and molecular weight of 1000), 205 (melting point of 39 ° C. and molecular weight of 830) by SOLVAY, PCL-300, PCL-700 by UNION CARBIDE.
• CAPA 240 mp 68 ° C. and molecular weight 4000
• 223 mp 48 ° C. and molecular weight 2000
• 222 melting point of 48 ° C. and molecular weight of 2000
• 217 melting
• CAPA 2125 can be used, the melting point of which is between 35 and 45 ° C. and the molecular weight of which is equal to 1250.
• the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked when the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the fatty phase by heating above their melting point. It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It can also be a physical crosslinking which can then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer such as dipolar interactions between ionomers carboxylates, these interactions being in small amounts and carried by the polymer backbone; or at a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks carried by the polymer.
• the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according to the invention are uncrosslinked.
• the semicrystalline polymer of the composition of the invention may also be a metallocene-catalyzed polymer, such as those described in US Patent 2007/0031361, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.
• These polymers are copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, that is to say by polymerization at low pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.
• the weight average mass (Mw) of these copolymers obtained by metallocene catalysis described in this document is less than or equal to 25,000 g / mol, it ranges, for example, from 2,000 to 22,000 g / mol and better still from 4,000 to 20,000 g / mol. 000 g / mol.
• the number average mass (Mn) of these copolymers obtained by metallocene catalysis described herein is preferably less than or equal to 15,000 g / mol, it ranges, for example, from 1,000 to 12,000 g / mol, and better still from 2 to 000 to 10,000 g / mol.
• the polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight average mass Mw to the number average mass Mn.
• the polydispersity index of the copolymers is between 1.5 and 10, preferably between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 3 and better still, between 2 and 2.5.
• the copolymers can be obtained in a known manner from ethylene and / or propylene monomers, for example by metallocene catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571 882, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.
• the ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis can be unmodified or "polar" modified (polar modified, that is, modified so that they have polar groups).
• the polar-modified copolymers can be prepared in a known manner from homopolymers and unmodified copolymers such as those described above by oxidation with oxygen-containing gases, such as air, or by grafting with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or derivatives of these acids.
• the copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene prepared by polarized and especially preferred metallocene catalysis are modified polymers so that they exhibit hydrophilic properties.
• hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride, acrylate, methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), etc.
• Homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride or acrylate are particularly preferred.
• polymers of polypropylene modified with maleic anhydride marketed by Clariant or polypropylene-ethylene copolymers
• maleic anhydride such as those marketed by Clariant under the name LicoCare as LicoCare PP207 LP3349, LicoCare CM401 LP3345, LicoCare CA301 LP 3346, and LicoCare CA302 LP 3347.
• a polished polymer having a low degree of crystallinity, preferably less than 40%.
• compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise a silicone resin.
• the term "resin” means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional.
• the term “silicone resins” is also referred to as “silicone resins” or “siloxane resins”.
• a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
• silicone resins also called siloxane resins or silicone resins
• MDTQ silicone resins
• the letter "M” represents the monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
• the letter “D” signifies a Difunctional unit R1R2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms
• T represents a trifunctional unit of formula RlSi ⁇ 3 / 2.
• R 1, namely R 1, R 2 and R 3 represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a group hydroxyl.
• the letter "Q" signifies a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
• silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and the number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain , the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.
• silicone resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, silicone resins of the MQ, T type or MQT type can be used, for example.
• solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type that may be mentioned are those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, under the name “KF-7312J” by the company Shin -Etsu, "DC 749", “DC 593” by the company
• silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units
• T type silicone resins By way of example of T type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes may further comprise Si-OH end groups.
• the polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, for example those marketed:
• Resin MK polymer comprising repeating units CH 3 SiO 3/2 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g / mol, or
• MOT resins As a resin comprising MQT units, those known from US 5,110,890 are particularly known.
• MQT resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr).
• MQTPr MQT-propyl resins
• the MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (i) (Rl 3 SiO 1/2 ) a (ii) (R2 2 Si0 2/2 ) b with R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical
• the siloxane resin comprises the units:
• the siloxane resins that can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of:
• R1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of
• T propyl resin comprising at least 80 mole% of units (R 3 SiO 3/2) c
• R 3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than zero, with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the R 3 groups are propyl groups, where the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
• the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85.
• the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have been found to allow comfortable deposits.
• the siloxane resin when present, is present in the composition in a total solids content of resin ranging from 3% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from From 4% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 25% by weight.
• Coloring matters ranging from 3% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from From 4% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 25% by weight.
• compositions according to the invention may advantageously contain a coloring agent which may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.
• the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art.
• the dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.05 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• pigments is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.
• the pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. .
• inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate.
• a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS.
• the coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide.
• An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
• DPP diketo pyrrolopyrrole
• nacres it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
• the nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye.
• pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye.
• organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.
• the nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.
• nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), GoId 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the
• dye it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase.
• the liposo lubricating dyes may be chosen from Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow.
• the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
• stabilized means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
• this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and fibers, in particular interference.
• these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects.
• the particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, the particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of said particles.
• the metals that may be present in said particles mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys.
• Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
• Metal derivatives means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.
• Illustrative of these particles include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ® by Siberline and METALURE® ® by the company Eckart.
• the goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.
• Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: AlZSiO 2 ZAlZSiO 2 ZAl, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZAl 2 SiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 , and Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 , pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS 2 ZSiO 2 Zmica-oxide ZSiO 2 ZMoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZnUCa-OXV
• pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).
• these pigments may be the pigments with a silica structure, titanium oxide, tin oxide sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, pigments with a silica structure, and brown iron oxide sold under the name Xerona Indian Summer by the company Merck. and the pigments with a silica structureZincoxideZmicaZoxide of tin sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK.
• Pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.
• liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by CHENIX well as those sold under the name Helicone® ® HC by Wacker. Charge
• a composition according to the invention may comprise a filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 30%, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight, for example ranging from 0.1% to 15%, or from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• filler is understood to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
• the fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon ® ) (Orgasol ® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon ® ), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel ® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap ® from Dow Corning Corporation) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls ® , for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbon
• it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer.
• Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 ® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 ® from the company TOSHIKI. Additional usual cosmetic ingredients
• composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.
• any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.
• Examples of devices that make it possible, among other things, to implement a cosmetic treatment process comprising the steps of: a) heating an application surface of a mass of solid product, with the aid of an artificial source of heat located outside the product mass, in particular an application surface of a product stick, to bring it to a temperature greater than that of a portion of the product mass remote from the product mass; application surface and which remains solid during application, and b) apply the application surface thus heated to an area to be treated, including the skin or lips.
• FIG. 1 shows, schematically, in elevation, an example of packaging device and application made according to the invention
• Figure 2 FIG. 3 diagrammatically and partially shows the heating of the end of the rod by contact with a hot surface
• FIG. schematically and partially an embodiment of the heating member FIGS. 5 to 7 illustrate details of embodiments of heating element variants
• FIG. 8 schematically shows an alternative embodiment of the packaging and application device
• FIG. 9 is a schematic and partial section of FIG. device of Figure 8, after placement in the corresponding housing of the housing,
• FIG. 10 represents a rod and associated support means
• FIG. 11 represents in elevation an alternative embodiment of the conditioning and application device
• FIG. 12 is a longitudinal, partial and schematic section of the device of FIG.
• FIG. 13 is a longitudinal section, partial and schematic, of an alternative embodiment of the device
• FIG. 14 represents a variant of packaging of the product
• FIG. 15 previously described illustrates the measurement of the coefficient of friction. dynamic.
• the device 1 of packaging and application shown in Figure 1 comprises a base portion 2 which supports a mass of product according to the invention being in the form of a rod S product, and a cover 3 which can be fix on the base part 2 to close the device 1 in the absence of use.
• the base portion 2 can be of any known type to move the rod S as and when consumption.
• the base portion 2 comprises for example two parts 5 and 6 rotatable relative to each other, and a mechanism for transforming the relative rotation of the two parts 5 and 6 in an axial displacement along the longitudinal axis X of the S.
• the stick S is for example worn, within this mechanism, by a cupule
• the cover 3 comprises a heating device 10 which allows the end 11 of the stick S to be warmed up before it is applied to the keratin materials, for example the skin or the lips.
• the heating device 10 can accommodate an electrical source that is not visible, for example containing one or more batteries or accumulators, and a heating element comprising, for example, an electrical resistance powered by the electrical source.
• an electrical source that is not visible
• a heating element comprising, for example, an electrical resistance powered by the electrical source.
• suitable heaters are disclosed in US 2007 / 0,286,665 A1, for example.
• the heating member is arranged to raise the temperature of a heating surface 13 which, in the example of FIGS. 1 and 2, can come into contact with the rod S, as illustrated in FIG. 3, in order to raise the temperature of the distal end 11 thereof.
• the heating device 10 may comprise a switch 14 allowing the user to start or stop the heating device 10, as well as an operating indicator, for example a light which lights up when the surface heating 13 is being heated.
• the heating device 10 may optionally comprise any means for regulating the temperature of the heating surface 13 so that it does not exceed a predefined value.
• the heating surface When the heating surface is inaccessible to the user, a higher heating temperature but compatible with the product can be accepted. On the other hand, when the heating surface 13 can be contacted by the user, a temperature not exceeding 65 ° C. is preferred.
• the heating device 10 may also, if appropriate, include a timer which allows the end 11 of the rod S to be warmed up only for a predefined period, in order to avoid premature wear of the source of electrical energy and / or avoid wearing the entire stick at an excessive temperature.
• the heating device 10 may advantageously comprise any suitable sensor for triggering the operation of the heating only in case of effective contact of the heating surface with the end 11 of the stick S.
• the heater 10 may comprise a contact pressure sensor between the heating surface 13 and the rod S, and allow heating of the heating surface 13 only in the event of proven contact with the stick S .
• the heating surface 13 may be defined for example by a contact piece 20, for example axially movable along the axis X relative to the body 22 of the heating device 10 against the return action of an elastic return member 23, such as for example a spring housed inside the contact piece 20, as illustrated in FIG. 4.
• an elastic return member 23 such as for example a spring housed inside the contact piece 20, as illustrated in FIG. 4.
• FIG. 4 shows a heating device comprising an electrical resistance 25 plated in the bottom of the contact piece 20, so as to be as close as possible to the heating surface 13.
• the contact piece 20 may, for example include a good heat conducting metal, with a small wall thickness, so as to have a low thermal inertia.
• the contact piece 20 may for example comprise aluminum.
• the heating surface 13 can be given any shape adapted to the geometry of the end 11 of the rod, for example a bevelled shape substantially complementary to the shape of the end 11 of the rod S, as illustrated in FIGS.
• the device 1 may comprise means of indexing in rotation of the base part 2 and the cover 3, so as to not allow the fixing the cover 3 on the base portion 2 only in a predefined angular orientation between the two, in which the heating surface 13 can come into application in a predefined manner, compatible with its geometry, against the rod S.
• the stick S which is for example a lipstick stick, may have a section of between 0.1 and 5 cm 2 , or even between 0.15 and 1 cm 2 , and the device 1 can be used by lighting first. the heating device 10 and then waiting for the time required for the end 11 of the rod which defines the application surface is brought to the desired temperature.
• the heating may for example be indicated by the indicator light 15, which may for example go from a continuous ignition state signaling the start of the device to a flashing ignition or change color when the temperature is reached.
• Other methods for indicating the ignition state may be employed without departing from the scope of the invention.
• the base portion 2 can be separated from the cover 3 and the user can apply the product of the stick on the lips or other keratin materials.
• the softening of the product at the end 11 of the stick ensures a comfortable application, a good transfer to the lips with a thick deposit and possibly shine upon application.
• the application is done without using an applicator.
• only the composition, and more precisely the softened surface is put in direct contact with the region to be treated.
• the body of the rod S is at room temperature or at a slightly higher temperature, but insufficient to compromise the mechanical strength necessary to withstand the mechanical forces generated by the application.
• the device 1 can be used in a similar way to make up the skin, the stick can then be of larger section, if necessary.
• the heating device may not be incorporated in a cover 3 of the conditioning device, but may be present in a housing 40 separate from the packaging device of the stick S, as illustrated in FIGS. 8 and 9.
• the housing 40 can house an electrical source and / or comprise a connection means to an electrical source, for example the mains via a low-voltage transformer.
• the housing 40 may also include start-up means 41, such as for example an on / off switch, and one or more lights 42 and 55 to signal the power up and / or the end of the warm-up. .
• the housing 40 has an opening 46 in which the base portion 2 can be introduced at least partially, as illustrated in FIG. 9, in order to bring the end 11 of the stick close to a heating means 50 present in the housing 40.
• the opening 46 is for example of section adapted to one of the parts of the base part, so that the engagement of the base part in the housing brings the end 11 of the stick into a predefined position, at least in two directions of space, relative to the heating means.
• the housing 40 may include any suitable sensor 51 for detecting the establishment of the base portion 2 of the housing 40 and possibly the positioning of the rod relative to the heating means. Heating of the end of the stick S can take place by conduction, in contact with a hot surface, as described above.
• the heating means comprises a heating surface which can be brought to the appropriate temperature by any heating means, for example an electrical resistance.
• Heating of the end of the stick can still be carried out without contact, for example by IR radiation and / or convection, and / or by vibration and / or radio-electric radiation, or any other source providing heat.
• the housing 40 may comprise any suitable sensor, in particular an optical sensor, capable of evaluating the distance between the end 11 of the stick and the heating means 50, in order to allow it to start up only when when a predefined distance is respected and / or in order to adjust the heating power as a function of the distance between the heating means and the end of the stick S.
• any suitable sensor in particular an optical sensor, capable of evaluating the distance between the end 11 of the stick and the heating means 50, in order to allow it to start up only when when a predefined distance is respected and / or in order to adjust the heating power as a function of the distance between the heating means and the end of the stick S.
• the heating means 50 may be a heating system by emitting infrared radiation towards the end 11 of the stick, for example by means of a halogen or incandescent lamp, or by blowing hot air towards the end 11.
• the end 11 of the stick S may be further heated by exposure to radio-frequency radiation, for example microwaves, focused at the end 11 of the stick S.
• the end 11 of the stick S may be heated by ultrasonic vibrations.
• the heating device 60 comprises a heating means 62 which is integral with the base part 2 and which can comprise, as illustrated, a ring-shaped heating element 62, which can The heating member 62 is for example of section greater than or equal to that of the stick S.
• the heating device 60 may comprise, for example, a control member 64 on which the user can press to trigger the operation of the heating member 62.
• the heating member 62 may comprise, for example, a heating resistor that allows the heating element to be heated. by conduction, convection and / or radiation (for example infrared, microwaves ...) the end 11 of the stick S.
• the heating member 62 may also participate in the application of the product associated with the rod S and may for this purpose have an upper face 70 of suitable shape, for example beveled.
• the user can bring the end 11 of the stick to the heating member 62 and trigger the heating by pressing the control member 64.
• the heating device may comprise a light indicator 72 signaling to the user the operation of the heating member 62.
• the user can then interrupt the heating when he visually observes that the end 11 of the rod has changed in appearance due to the temperature rise, for example has become glossy.
• the user can then possibly, at this moment, move the end 11 a little more upwards so as to facilitate the application of the product, without contact with the heating member 62.
• the user can proceed to the application of the product with contact not only of the stick S but also of the heating member 62 on the lips or the skin. If necessary, the surface of the heating member 62 that can contact the skin may be flocked or have a textured surface appearance facilitating application.
• the stick S passes through a heating member 62 defining an opening 76 of narrowed section relative to the body section of the stick.
• the softening of the rod S in contact with the heating member 62 may thus be accompanied, in this example, by a deformation of the rod through the heating member 62. This may increase the accuracy of application of the product. and to prevent the rod S can be advanced relative to the heater 62 until sufficient softening is achieved.
• the outer surface of the heater 62 may be tapered, as shown in FIG. 13, to reduce the contact area between the treated region and the heater 62.
• FIG. 14 represents an alternative embodiment in which the mass of product S associated with the stick S is supported by a rod 200, and is suitable for example for a single use.
• the application surface 202 is heated by being brought into contact with or near a hot surface, for example by introducing it into a housing provided with a heating means such as the housing previously described with reference to FIGS. 8 and 9.
• phase D The pigments of phase D are ground in phase A.
• Phase C phase is added by stirring with Rayneri until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• phase E mother-of-pearl and perfume
• EUTANOL G marketed by the company COGNIS
• SOFTISAN 649 marketed by SASOL
• PLANDOOL-G marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL
• PERFORMALENE 500-L from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES
• INTELIMER IPA 13 -1 marketed by the company AIR PRODUCTS AND
• V ⁇ ROSIT R 912 (oojti Ic Ic Ic Ic Ic Ic IcUUUUUU 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) NIK DFGUSbA
• TIPAQUE PF-671 marketed by the company ISHIHARA SANGYO
• the hardness at 20 0 C of the stick is 187 Nm "1 .
• the bevel of the composition is brought into contact with a hot source at 60 ° C. for 10 seconds and then applied to the lips:
• the application is more pleasant compared to the application carried out at room temperature as outlined above.
• the deposit is thick very bright with good gloss hold.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Treatments Of Macromolecular Shaped Articles (AREA)
• Processing And Handling Of Plastics And Other Materials For Molding In General (AREA)

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• 2008
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  • 2009-07-22 KR KR1020117003853A patent/KR20110034018A/ko active Application Filing
  • 2009-07-22 WO PCT/FR2009/051479 patent/WO2010010306A2/fr active Application Filing
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  • 2009-07-22 WO PCT/FR2009/051478 patent/WO2010010305A2/fr active Application Filing
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