EP1947225B1 - Procédé pour la fabrication d'un tricot élastique indémaillable - Google Patents

Procédé pour la fabrication d'un tricot élastique indémaillable Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1947225B1
EP1947225B1 EP07425005A EP07425005A EP1947225B1 EP 1947225 B1 EP1947225 B1 EP 1947225B1 EP 07425005 A EP07425005 A EP 07425005A EP 07425005 A EP07425005 A EP 07425005A EP 1947225 B1 EP1947225 B1 EP 1947225B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
thread
elastic
fabric
rigid
threads
Prior art date
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Application number
EP07425005A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1947225A1 (fr
Inventor
Laura Calissoni
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Carvico SpA
Original Assignee
Carvico SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
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First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=38324138&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP1947225(B1) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Application filed by Carvico SpA filed Critical Carvico SpA
Priority to AT07425005T priority Critical patent/ATE431867T1/de
Priority to DE602007001146T priority patent/DE602007001146D1/de
Priority to EP07425005A priority patent/EP1947225B1/fr
Priority to JP2007330636A priority patent/JP2008169537A/ja
Priority to RU2007147580/12A priority patent/RU2464365C2/ru
Priority to ARP070105937A priority patent/AR064568A1/es
Priority to AU2008200023A priority patent/AU2008200023A1/en
Priority to CA002618314A priority patent/CA2618314A1/fr
Priority to KR1020080001251A priority patent/KR20080064740A/ko
Priority to CNA2008100019746A priority patent/CN101215757A/zh
Priority to BRPI0800304-1A priority patent/BRPI0800304A/pt
Priority to ZA200800013A priority patent/ZA200800013B/xx
Priority to US11/970,418 priority patent/US20080172850A1/en
Priority to MX2008000006A priority patent/MX2008000006A/es
Publication of EP1947225A1 publication Critical patent/EP1947225A1/fr
Priority to HK08110095.5A priority patent/HK1118876A1/xx
Publication of EP1947225B1 publication Critical patent/EP1947225B1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/06—Non-run fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is a method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric of the type specified in the preamble of Claim 1 and a fabric obtained with said method as set out in claim 10.
  • fabrics are produced from a plurality of threads arranged according to particular periodic geometries that enable mutual link of said threads and formation of stitches.
  • the characteristics of the fabrics are thus determined by the geometries of the weaves, by the type of the threads, and finally by the dimensions of the individual stitches.
  • non-run elastic fabrics are produced from a plurality of knitted threads that develop in a single direction, referred to as warp.
  • Said fabrics are made up of a plurality of different types of threads, in particular substantially rigid threads and substantially elastic threads.
  • Non-run elastic fabrics are used for different applications and in particular for garments or clothes, such as swimsuits, garments for practising sports activities, underwear and so forth.
  • a classic fabric of the type referred to is, for example, the so-called “charmeuse” obtained via the weave of an elastic thread and a rigid thread according to a combination of tricot and double tricot weaves, which bestows elasticity and a high-quality appearance upon the fabric.
  • EP-A-1 281 798 describe a similar elastic fabric realized by a combination of four different threads, two elastic threads and two rigid threads.
  • the fabrics in question are industrially produced by purposely designed warpknitted machines, with loom of a warp/weft type, which comprise a system for conveying and movement of the threads, which are inserted through the eyelets of purposely provided perforated elements, referred to as "thread guides", and fall on one or more rows of needles, arranged transversely with respect to the direction of the threads.
  • the thread guides and the needles are moved with reciprocating movements, whilst the threads are moved with a continuous motion.
  • the threads present a vertical and descending continuous motion
  • the thread guides, which move the threads further present a longitudinal and transverse reciprocating motion
  • the needles, set underneath the thread guides and interacting with the threads moved by the weft takers present a reciprocating vertical motion.
  • swimsuits produced with known fabrics do not constitute a sufficient barrier to sand, which can penetrate between the stitches and pass through the fabric. Furthermore, they do not present a high resistance to chemical agents, in particular to chlorine compounds, which are frequently used in swimming pools and running water.
  • Said fabrics moreover present long drying times, once again on account of their large thickness.
  • known elastic fabrics have an inhomogeneous elasticity in width and in length and a reduced resistance to "pilling", i.e., to a physical process that leads to the formation of small irregular balls of fibre on the surface of the fabrics.
  • the technical task underlying the present invention is to devise a non-run elastic fabric capable of substantially overcoming the drawbacks referred to.
  • an important purpose of the invention is to produce a non-run elastic fabric having a high resistance to chemical agents and to mechanical stresses.
  • Another important purpose of the invention is to obtain a non-run elastic fabric with a high degree of fineness.
  • a further purpose of the invention is to obtain a non-run elastic fabric with a reduced mass per unit surface.
  • Last but not least aim of the invention is to obtain a fabric that will present a homogeneous elasticity in any direction.
  • EP-A-1 443 135 describes an elastic fabric realized by a combination of only an elastic thread and a rigid thread disposed according to a combination of two tricot weaves disposed side by side. Said fabric solve only partially the said drawbacks and does not solve the last drawback described.
  • the fabric according to the invention is designated as a whole by 1.
  • warp knitting machines type having at least two rows of weft takers.
  • Said machines are of a known type, marketed, for example, by the German firm LIBA Maschinenfabrik GmbH under the name of Copcentra.
  • said machines comprise a system for conveying and moving the threads, appropriately on beams, which are inserted in two bars of perforated weft takers and conveyed to a bar of needles.
  • the two thread guide bars are arranged one at the front and one at the rear, and can be moved with rectilinear reciprocating motion in a longitudinal direction and in a transverse direction.
  • each thread guide bar Moreover conveyed to each thread guide bar are threads of one and the same type, whilst to the two different bars there can be conveyed selectively two different types of threads.
  • the threads fall then in a position corresponding to the needles, around which they can form open or closed stitches.
  • the movement of the thread-conveying system, the reciprocating movement of the needles, and the reciprocating longitudinal movement of the thread guide bars always remain substantially constant, irrespective of the type of weave, whilst the reciprocating transverse movement of the thread guide bars is regulated according to the type of fabric. Said movement enables in fact the threads to pass around one or the other needle and form open or closed stitches.
  • the fabric 1 is produced using two different types of threads: a substantially rigid thread 2 and a substantially elastic thread 3.
  • substantially rigid is a thread having a percentage stretch lower than 20% of the total length
  • substantially elastic is a thread having a percentage stretch higher than 80% of the total length
  • the rigid thread 2 is made of materials of a known type; for example, it may be a polyamide multifilament thread; alternatively, it may be made of polyester, polypropylene or some other material.
  • the elastic thread 3 is made of elastic material of a known type, in particular elastomeric polymers, for example, polyurethane. It moreover has appropriately a titre comprised between 22 and 60 dTex and more appropriately between 33 and 44 dTex.
  • the ratio between the linear density expressed in dTex of the rigid threads 2 and elastic threads 3 is appropriately comprised between 0.5 and 0.9.
  • the rigid threads 2 are arranged on the conveying system and on the eyelets of the front thread guide bar; each thread guide of the front bar is traversed by a rigid thread 2.
  • the elastic threads 3 are arranged on the conveying system and on the eyelets of the rear thread guide bar; each weft taker of the rear bar is traversed by an elastic thread 3.
  • the threads 2 and 3 are arranged according to weaves determined by the reciprocating movement of the two thread guide bars.
  • each of which represents a needle in a temporary position of its own.
  • the needles are arranged in horizontal rows (hereinafter “ranks") and vertical rows (hereinafter “lines”).
  • the lines are in actual fact defined by the periodic movement of the threads and of the needles themselves, whereas the ranks are defined by the horizontal positioning of the needles themselves, so that a line of needles represents the periodic positioning of one and the same needle, whilst each rank represents a plurality of different needles.
  • the blank spaces between the lines are numbered with natural numbers from zero to four and represent the positions in which the thread guides arrange the threads.
  • the thread guides can arrange the threads in a circle around a needle so as to form a closed stitch, or according to a non-closed path, so as to form an open stitch.
  • the fabric 1 is obtained starting from a basic portion, which includes a rigid thread 2, represented by a solid line, and an elastic thread 3, represented by a dashed line.
  • the two threads 2 and 3 of a basic portion are arranged in phase; i.e., in each rank they are always arranged on the same needle. Furthermore, the threads 2 and 3 are appropriately always arranged parallel, i.e., they always follow the same identical path and compose on the same needle one and the same type of closed or open stitch.
  • the two threads 2 and 3 are arranged according to a weave having a periodicity of four stitches, in which three consecutive stitches are obtained on different needles.
  • consecutive are meant non-skipped needles.
  • Said weave can comprise closed or open stitches; in particular, of the four stitches envisaged, the closed stitches can vary in number from zero to four, whilst the remaining stitches will be open.
  • Illustrated in Figures 1a-1c is a weave in which closed stitches are envisaged, alternating with open stitches, and in particular the closed stitches are set on the two lateral needles of the three needles.
  • Said weave is defined by a movement of the two front and rear thread guide bars, which occurs in parallel to enable the described parallel arrangement of the threads 2 and 3, in a position corresponding to the spaces from 1 to 0 in a first rank, from 1 to 2 in a second rank, from 2 to 3 in a third rank, and from 2 to 1 in the fourth rank.
  • Illustrated in Figures 2a-2c is a weave in which closed stitches are envisaged, alternating with open stitches, and in particular the closed stitches are set on the central needle.
  • Said weave is defined by a parallel movement of the front and rear thread guide bars in positions corresponding to the spaces from 0 to 1 in a first rank, from 2 to 1 in a second rank, from 3 to 2 in a third rank, and from 1 to 2 in the fourth rank.
  • the density of needles per inch is comprised between 40 and 44.
  • Said density of needles and weft takers determines the size of the stitches, and consequently the number of stitches of the fabric and the surface density of stitches.
  • the density of needles per unit of measurement is thus a parameter useful for identifying rapidly a fundamental characteristic of a fabric.
  • the method described can be produced also on different types of knitting machines, provided that the characteristics of the basic portion, of the threads that make it up, and of the surface density of stitches remain the same.
  • the invention achieves important advantages.
  • the solution of using two threads 2 and 3 arranged in phase or in parallel means that the elastic threads 3 do not work in phase opposition and do not cross the rigid threads 2 themselves.
  • the fabric 1 maintains a high resistance also in the presence of sodium hypochlorite precisely by virtue of the practically absent mechanical wear.
  • the basic portion of the weave presents a number of vertical stitches very close to the number of horizontal stitches, and hence a substantially square shape.
  • the above characteristics can lead to manufacturing fabrics 1 that are very fine and light.
  • fabrics 1 are produced having a mass per unit area of 160 g/m 2 , a thickness comprised between 0.25 and 0.80 mm and approximately 50% less than that of the classic charmeuse, with a duration equal to or longer than non-run elastic fabrics of a known type.
  • the fabrics 1 moreover enable, precisely by virtue of their fineness, an excellent coverage and resistance to sand.
  • the fineness described of the stitches that produce the fabrics 1 is such as to prevent sand or other particles from penetrating between the stitches of the fabric or passing through it.
  • the fineness itself moreover enables rapid drying of the fabric 1 and a pleasant sensation to the touch, seeing that the fabric 1 is perceived as a second skin instead of as a foreign body.
  • the fabric 1 moreover has a high transpirability and thus enables optimal dispersion of heat.
  • the fabric 1 moreover has an elasticity that is homogeneous in every direction by virtue of the particular weave of fibres.
  • the fabric 1 has proven very resistant to pilling and curling, i.e., the tendency to roll up and curl. In fact, in appropriate tests dedicated to the two characteristics listed, the fabric 1 always yielded excellent results. n which said thread guide bars are set one at the front and one at the rear and in which said rigid thread (2) is set on said front bar.

Claims (14)

  1. Procédé pour la production d'une étoffe élastique indémaillable, sur métiers à tisser avec métier de type indémaillable ayant deux barres à passettes et une barre à aiguilles, consistant à prédisposer un fil rigide (2) sur l'une desdites barres à passettes et un fil élastique (3) sur l'autre desdites barres à passettes, et caractérisé par le fait qu'il consiste également à disposer ledit fil rigide (2) et ledit fil élastique (3) en phase entre eux, et selon une armure ayant une périodicité de quatre mailles dont trois mailles consécutives sont obtenues sur trois aiguilles consécutives différentes.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, où ledit fil rigide (2) et ledit fil élastique (3) sont disposés parallèlement entre eux.
  3. Procédé selon les revendications 1 ou 2, où lesdites aiguilles sont prédisposées sur ladite barre à aiguilles avec une densité comprise entre 32 et 44 aiguilles par pouce.
  4. Procédé selon la revendication 3, où lesdites aiguilles sont prédisposées sur ladite barre à aiguilles avec une densité comprise entre 40 et 44 aiguilles par pouce.
  5. Procédé selon une ou plusieurs des revendications précédentes, où est prédisposé une armure présentant une maille fermée alternée à une maille ouverte.
  6. Procédé selon une ou plusieurs des revendications précédentes, où ledit fil rigide (2) est prédisposé avec une densité linéaire comprise entre 22 et 44 dTex.
  7. Procédé selon une ou plusieurs des revendications précédentes, où ledit fil élastique (3) est prédisposé avec une densité linéaire comprise entre 33 et 44 dTex.
  8. Procédé selon une ou plusieurs des revendications précédentes, où ledit fil rigide (2) et ledit fil élastique (3) sont prédisposé avec un rapport entre les densités linéaires compris entre 0,5 et 0,9.
  9. Procédé selon une ou plusieurs des revendications précédentes, où lesdites barres à passettes sont placées l'une à l'avant et l'autre à l'arrière et où ledit fil rigide (2) est placé sur ladite barre avant.
  10. Étoffe réalisée à partir d'une portion de base, composée d'un fil rigide (2) et d'un fil élastique (3) disposés en phase entre eux et caractérisée par le fait que ledit fil rigide (2) et ledit fil élastique (3) sont également disposés selon une armure Atlas avec une périodicité de quatre mailles.
  11. Étoffe selon la revendication 10, où ledit fil rigide (2) et ledit fil élastique (3) sont disposés parallèlement entre eux.
  12. Étoffe selon les revendications 10 ou 11, où ledit fil rigide (2) est prédisposé avec une densité linéaire comprise entre 22 et 44 dTex.
  13. Étoffe selon une ou plusieurs des revendications de 10 à 12, où ledit fil élastique (3) est prédisposé avec une densité linéaire comprise entre 33 et 44 dTex.
  14. Étoffe selon une ou plusieurs des revendications de 10 à 13, où ledit fil rigide (2) et ledit fil élastique (3) sont prédisposés avec un rapport entre les densités linéaires compris entre 0,5 et 0,9.
EP07425005A 2007-01-05 2007-01-05 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un tricot élastique indémaillable Active EP1947225B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (15)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT07425005T ATE431867T1 (de) 2007-01-05 2007-01-05 Verfahren zur herstellung eines elastischen, maschenfesten textils
DE602007001146T DE602007001146D1 (de) 2007-01-05 2007-01-05 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines elastischen, maschenfesten Textils
EP07425005A EP1947225B1 (fr) 2007-01-05 2007-01-05 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un tricot élastique indémaillable
JP2007330636A JP2008169537A (ja) 2007-01-05 2007-12-21 非伝線弾性質布地製造方法
RU2007147580/12A RU2464365C2 (ru) 2007-01-05 2007-12-24 Способ производства непроницаемого эластичного трикотажа
ARP070105937A AR064568A1 (es) 2007-01-05 2007-12-27 Procedimiento para la fabricacion de un tejido elastico indesmallable
AU2008200023A AU2008200023A1 (en) 2007-01-05 2008-01-02 Method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric
CA002618314A CA2618314A1 (fr) 2007-01-05 2008-01-03 Methode de fabrication d'un tissu elastique indemaillable
KR1020080001251A KR20080064740A (ko) 2007-01-05 2008-01-04 올풀림이 없는 탄성 직물의 제조방법
CNA2008100019746A CN101215757A (zh) 2007-01-05 2008-01-04 用以制造不抽丝弹性织物的方法
BRPI0800304-1A BRPI0800304A (pt) 2007-01-05 2008-01-04 método para a fabricação de um tecido elástico à prova de desfiadura e tecido obtido
ZA200800013A ZA200800013B (en) 2007-01-05 2008-01-04 Method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric
US11/970,418 US20080172850A1 (en) 2007-01-05 2008-01-07 Method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric
MX2008000006A MX2008000006A (es) 2007-01-05 2008-01-07 Procedimiento para la fabricacion de un tejido elastico indesmalable.
HK08110095.5A HK1118876A1 (en) 2007-01-05 2008-09-11 Method for manufacturing a non-run elastic fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP07425005A EP1947225B1 (fr) 2007-01-05 2007-01-05 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un tricot élastique indémaillable

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1947225A1 EP1947225A1 (fr) 2008-07-23
EP1947225B1 true EP1947225B1 (fr) 2009-05-20

Family

ID=38324138

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP07425005A Active EP1947225B1 (fr) 2007-01-05 2007-01-05 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un tricot élastique indémaillable

Country Status (15)

Country Link
US (1) US20080172850A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1947225B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2008169537A (fr)
KR (1) KR20080064740A (fr)
CN (1) CN101215757A (fr)
AR (1) AR064568A1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE431867T1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2008200023A1 (fr)
BR (1) BRPI0800304A (fr)
CA (1) CA2618314A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE602007001146D1 (fr)
HK (1) HK1118876A1 (fr)
MX (1) MX2008000006A (fr)
RU (1) RU2464365C2 (fr)
ZA (1) ZA200800013B (fr)

Cited By (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110685064A (zh) * 2019-11-05 2020-01-14 江南大学 一种经编仿单面毛呢面料及其制备方法

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EP2017380B1 (fr) * 2007-07-20 2009-05-20 Carvico S.p.A. Procédé pour la production des étoffes indémaillables
CN102154783A (zh) * 2011-04-19 2011-08-17 宁波三同编织有限公司 一种用于加工机械臂护套的布料
TR201815251T4 (tr) * 2013-02-23 2018-11-21 Mayer Textilmaschf Havlı kumaş üretimine yönelik yöntem, çözgülü örgü makinesi ve sürgü.
IT202200006929A1 (it) * 2022-04-07 2023-10-07 M I T I Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili S P A Tessuto indemagliabile elasticizzato a biodegradabilità accelerata.
CN115045036B (zh) * 2022-07-18 2024-05-07 泉州汇成针织有限公司 一种挡舌钢丝结构及具有该结构的针织机

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110685064A (zh) * 2019-11-05 2020-01-14 江南大学 一种经编仿单面毛呢面料及其制备方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2618314A1 (fr) 2008-07-05
BRPI0800304A (pt) 2008-08-19
JP2008169537A (ja) 2008-07-24
US20080172850A1 (en) 2008-07-24
EP1947225A1 (fr) 2008-07-23
CN101215757A (zh) 2008-07-09
ZA200800013B (en) 2008-09-25
DE602007001146D1 (de) 2009-07-02
MX2008000006A (es) 2009-02-23
AR064568A1 (es) 2009-04-08
KR20080064740A (ko) 2008-07-09
AU2008200023A1 (en) 2008-07-24
ATE431867T1 (de) 2009-06-15
HK1118876A1 (en) 2009-02-20
RU2464365C2 (ru) 2012-10-20
RU2007147580A (ru) 2009-06-27

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