US1513066A - of gloversville - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 28 .1924. v 1,513,066 f P. H. QUICK WARP KNIT FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. 26, 1922 hues of silk etented Get. 28, 1924.

E E FD? "STATES PATENT orrice.

PAUL H. QUICK, 0F GLOV'ERSVILLE, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOB T0 KINGSBO'RO SILK MILLS, I

INC., OF GLOVERSVILLE, NEW YORK.

WARP KNIT FABRIC AND METHOD OF -MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed December 26, 1922. Serial No. 609,093.

To all 'w/mm it may concewt:

Be it known that I, PAUL H, QUICK, a

provements in and relating to the manufac- Lure of jersey knit silk fabric of the kind commonly known in the trade as glove silk,

which as ordinarily made consists of two sets of silk threads knit looped and lapped upon the needles of a uvo-beaxmtwo guidebar Tricot or fast warp knitting machine. This glove silk fabric, among its other uses, is en'iployed'in the manufacture of cut silk hosiery, and is a very satisfactory material for making the leg portions of thin silk hosiery. It is not, however, satisfactory for use in making the foot and heel portions of hosiery, as it lacks the necessary thickness, stren h and durability to give good service an long wear. For this reason hosiery made entirely of glove silk fabric, while desirablebecause of its comfortable feel to the foot and fine appearance on the leg, does not possess the long wearing qualiosiery having foot and heel portions made of some thicker, Stronger nd more durable material.

One object of my invention is to provide an improved love silk fabric of materially increased thic ness, strength and durability, and which is highly suita Is for satisfactory use in makin the foot and heel'portions of hosiery an for other general purposes where the use of an even surfaced cloth of heavy texture is desired.

Another ob'ect of the invention is toprovide a knit silk fabric which is madeof silk threads strengthened by the tlddlil'lml of threads of a stronger material, butwhlch, upon its face, will have the appearance of being made wholly of silk, and which 1s not limited to the use above stated, but is also suitable for use for many other urposes where a silk effect is desired coup ed with long wear, as in the manufacture of corsets, brassieres, underwear, mens soft collars, shirts, etc.

Still another object of the inventionis to provide a fabric of the character described which, while knitted, will have the appearance of a woven fabric.

Still another ob'ect of the invention is to provide a metho of making such a fabric, whereby the same may be made on a Tricot or fast warp knitting machine.

In the drawing,

Figure 1 is a view of parts of a knitting machine involved in carrying out my process and showing the arrangement for the action of the knitting mechanism on the threads.

Figure 2 isa view of a portion of fabric made in accordance with my invention, the loops being spread and exaggerated in size to show the mode of arrangement and relai tion thereof.

Referring now more particularly to big ure 1 of the drawing, 1 and 2 represent the usual beams or spools of a Tricot or fast warp knitting machine, from which pass the front and rear threads 3 and 4:: commonly employed in the production of jersey knit fabrics. These threads extend from the beams 1 and 2 over spring tension bars 5 and (i to and through the e es 7 and 8 of guide bars 9 and 10. 11 is t e usual presser bar, 12 the barbed needle, 13 the needle bar, and 1-1 the needle bar guide or sinker. In the ordinary operation of a Tricot or fast warp knittin machine threads 3 and 4 only are employer, which are linked or looped and lapped upon the needles and manipulutcd by the cooperating parts of the machine to produce an elastic knitted fabric which is uniform in weight, thickness and appearance throughout. For theproduction of my new fabric, however, I supply the machine with an added or third beam 15 and tension bar 16,.and also a'third guide bar 17 provided with a guide eye 18, such added parts being employed for the introduction, in a novel manner, of a third thread 19 which extends from the beam 15 over the bar 16 andthrough the aide eye for introduction with the threacs 3 and 4 into the fabric in the manner hereinafter specified. At 20 is shown the completed knitted fabric whichwinds upon the cloth roll 21.

In the method of making my improved fabric, the threads 3, 4 and 19 are constantly supplied from the beams 1, 2 and 15 to the knitting mechanism and the threads 3 and 4 are knitted together so as to form an u per fabrics.

laid therebetween and interlaced therewith as an intermediate warp so as to produce a fabric which is of increased thickness, strength and weight smooth and even surfaced and of uniform thickness, strength andweight throughout. Furthermore, the said threads 3, 4 and 19 are so associated as to form a fabric having certain novel char acteristic featuresfrom the standpoint of structure and appearance adapting it particularly for the purposes for-which it is designed, as will hereinafter more fully appear.

By reference to Figure 1 it will be seen that the threads 3 and '4 feed from the beams 1 and 2 through the eyes 7 and 8 of the guide bars 9 and 10, which guide bars move from right to left, in opposite directions, and lap or loop the threads on the needles in the usual way for making jersey In producing a silk faced fabric in accordance with my invention the threads 3 and 4 are silk threads, which, for convenience of description, may be termed front and rear silk threads, While the threads 19, which, for convenience of description, may be termed backing threads, may be of wtton, linen or wool, or any material suitable for giving increased strength and durability to the knitted silk fabric. The thread loops 4'are arranged or spaced in adjacent single rows or wales and have a single needle traverse between sucessive needles in the knitting action, while the thread loops 3 are arranged two rows or wales apart, measured with relation to the rows of threads 4, and have a two needle traverse between. alternately arranged needles in the knitting action, in which they jump from one needle to another across an intervening needle. The distance traversed b the threads 3 accord- I ingly in the formation of its threads loops requires a greater amount of silk feed (about one third more) than that required by the threads 4. The threads 3 in the knit are thrown over toward the. front and form the major portion of the face surface of. the fabric, the remainder of which is completed by the threads 4, and this excess of silk on the face side of the fabric covers and conceais all portions of'the threads 19 at the front, thus giving at the front of the-fabric the appearance of a fabric made entirely of silk throughout. Inintroducing the backing thread 19 the guide 17 on its descent carries the thread down against the back of the needle, between the portions of the threads 3 and 4 at such side of the needle, said thread 19 thence extending across or lapping the needle and passing to the front thereof and finally between the threads 3 and 4 at the point where the thread loops are closed to form the completed fabric 20. In this operation the thread 19 has a two needle traverse like the thread 3 so that said thread 19 will give anexcess of material In'so introducing the backing threacl'19 it will be observed, by reference to Figure 2, that the threads 19 are not linked or looped and knitted in with the threads 3 and 4, but are laid in between the threads 3 and 4, passing zig-zag fashion back and forth between alte'rnate rows of the loops of threads 3 and 4 and across an intermediate row of said thread loops. Also that at the points of intersection or bends of the zigzag thread stretches 19, the threads 19 pass through the loops of threads 3 and 4 and are thereby bound and held in position in the fabric. The arrangement described throws the binder threads 19, over at the rear of the silk threads 3 and 4 so that the threads 19 form the major portion of the rear surface of the fabric, the remainder of said surface-being made up by portions of the threads 4. In other words, by this method I inlay a third warp 19 complete between an upper warp 3 and a lower warp 4 by a regular traverse of said warp 19 around two needles, while the upper and lower" warps are knitted to form a regular tricot fabric over such third or intermediate warp. In the completed fabric, therefore, the silk threads 3, in entirety, and the major portions of the silk threads 4 form the front surface of the fabric, which is entirely of silk, while the backing threads 19, in entirety, and minor portions of the threads 4, form the rear surface of the fabric which is composed almost entirely of the thread material of greater strength and durability. As an example of'the composition of the back of the fabric it may be assumed that the threads 4 and 19 are of different and contrasting colors, in which event the-predominating color of the hack of the fabric will be that'of the threads 19, fiecked by the color of the portions of the threads 4 which show at the rear.

A fabric thus made will have all the appearance at the front of being made entirely of silk, while it will be thickened, strength ened and rendered of greatly increased durability by the backing threads, which, by reason of their bein thrown entirely to the rear, will serve their statedfunction without detracting from the effect and a pearance to be given to the face of the, abric. When used as foot and heel portions in the manufacture of cut-silk stockings, 'whose body portions are made of thin jersey silk, my improved fabric will furnish thick, strong and durable foot and heel portions having the appearance of being made of the same material as the stocking body and noise which, if desired, may be of a color or pattern to accord therewith. By reason also of the fact that a quite hvy appearance of silk is presented at the. front, a semblance of heavy silk goods is furnished, and, as the threads 19 extend throughout the fabric, which is of uniform weight, thickness and strength, a substitute for elastic all-silk material is provided which is suitable for use for many purposes, as in the manufacture of gloves, corsets, brassires, underwear, mens soft collars, shirts, and for all purposes where an all-silk efiect is desired coupled with long wearing qualities. A valuable feature of the product, constructed and made according to the method described, is that while the fabric is a knit fabric, it has every appearance in texture'of being a fine quality woven fabric, whereby its qualifications for many and various uses is increased. This fabric will also stand stretching (finishing) and preserve its shape better than ordinary 'ersey knit goods.

Having thus fully escribed my invention, I claim:

1. The herein-described warp fabric consisting of two sets of looped silk threads respectively of single traverse and of double traverse, and a third set of threads of greater strength and durability than said silk threads, the silk threads being arranged to form upper and lower warps and the third threads intermediate warps laid between said upper and lower warps, said intermediate Warp threads being inlaid in double traverse arrangement between the upper and lower warps and held by one set of the silk warps, the silk warps being knit to produce a regular tricot fabric over the intermediate warps.

2. The herein-described warp fabric comprising a jersey knit fabric structure made up of two sets of looped silk body threads, respectively of single traverse and of double traverse, the material of the double traverse body threads being in excess of the material of the single traverse body threads and arranged to mainly form the face of the fabric, and a backing thread of a material of,

greater strength and durability than the out, said fabric being smooth surfaced on both sides and presenting a solid silk fabric appearance at the front thereof and a reinforcing surface mainly constituted by the backing threads at the rear thereof.

3. The method of producing a jersey knit warp fabric of increased weight, strength and thickness, from two warp beams and two coacting guides two silk body threads to certain needles, looping together said threads by the action of the needles and associated parts of the knitting mechanism while causm one body thread to have a back and forth singl traverse and the other body thread to have a back and forth dowble traverse, thereby formin a plain jersey knit fabric structure of which the double traverse silk threads mainly form the front-having added silk material in excess of the silk material contained b supplying f om a third beam and a ooacting third guide a backin thread of greater strength and durability than the silk threads and lapping said backing threads via a back and forth zig-zag double traverse around two needlesrwithout passage therethrough and inlaying the same between the silk threads throughout the entire area'of the formed fabric, so as to cause said backing threads to be held by portions of the single traverse silk threads and to be disposed so. as to form with such portions of said silk threads the back of the fabric.

In testimony whereof I afix my signature.

PAUL QUICK.

which consists in supplylng' the single traverse silk threads,-

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