EP1901707A1 - Mittel zur behandlung des haares oder der haut, das einen extrakt aus pflanzen enthält, die der familie der oleaceae angehören - Google Patents
Mittel zur behandlung des haares oder der haut, das einen extrakt aus pflanzen enthält, die der familie der oleaceae angehörenInfo
- Publication number
- EP1901707A1 EP1901707A1 EP06753698A EP06753698A EP1901707A1 EP 1901707 A1 EP1901707 A1 EP 1901707A1 EP 06753698 A EP06753698 A EP 06753698A EP 06753698 A EP06753698 A EP 06753698A EP 1901707 A1 EP1901707 A1 EP 1901707A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- fraxinus
- hair
- olea
- syringa
- jasminum
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an agent for the treatment of the hair or the skin, containing at least one extract from plants belonging to the family of the Oleaceae. Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of one or more such extracts for the treatment of the hair or the skin.
- the small leaves are greyish green on top and silvery shiny and gray colored on the underside. They are narrow and run pointedly forward (lancet-like). At the bottom, they have small hairs, called star hairs or star-shaped dandruff, which protect the tree from dehydration by catching water escaping from the stomata and adding it to the leaf again.
- olive From a fruit after fertilization the fruit is formed: olive. It is a core fruit with a hard core surrounded by soft pulp. The color of the unripe olives is green, that of the ripe black or violet / brown. The most productive is the tree after about 20 years. The average composition of an olive is: water 50%, oil 22%, sugar 19.1%, cellulose 5.8%, proteins 1, 6%. The olive is a Mediterranean stone fruit. It is raw because of their bitterness not edible, but after repeated immersion in water, in which the Bitter substances are flushed out, edible. Black olives are fully matured green (olive) olives. The olive tree is used in several ways:
- olive oil is pressed from it, the healthiest known edible oil. It is used for frying and cooking and also in cosmetics. Industrially, the olives for the oil are either picked by hand or shaken down with the machine, chopped, mixed with water and hydraulically pressed, partly (depending on the purpose) also extracted with chemical solvents or thermal processes. On the other hand, top qualities for the kitchen are obtained with gentler methods, preferably the drip method, in which only the weight of the fruit is pressed without further pressure on the fruit. Then the oil is separated from the water in the centrifuge.
- the oil is healthy because of the high content of monounsaturated fatty acids and has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system and lipid metabolism and reduces the risk of diabetes or cancer.
- the human skin with its appendages is a very complex organ composed of a variety of different cell types. Every living cell of this organ is able to respond to signals of its internal and external environment. These reactions of the cells are realized by an orderly regulation on gene and protein level, so that the metabolism of skin cells and their appendages is not static but very dynamic. However, the reactions of the skin and / or its appendages to environmental changes should not be considered as reactions of isolated isolated cells. Rather, each cell is integrated into a complex communication network. This network includes e.g. the communication between cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages, signal molecules, e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.
- signal molecules e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.
- the aging process is a fundamental biological process found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly, the human skin is affected by this phenomenon. Skin aging is a progressive process leading to a loss of skin homeostasis. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects as a "genetically controlled program" are responsible for the exogenous factors environmental influences such as UV light.
- the skin of old age differs in different points from youthful skin. These are not only externally visible changes, effects of aging are to be detected at the cellular level, molecular genetic level and protein level. It has various biological characteristics, as shown by biopsied specimens (US Patent 6,630,516,).
- skin aging is characterized by a reduction in metabolic activity and by a 30-50% reduction in epidermal and dermal renewal rates. Histologically, the basal membrane (dermal-epidermal junction) flattened, resulting in a decreased nutrient transfer into the epidermis empties. Stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis are thinner in old age, associated with a decrease and structural change of the components of the extracellular matrix. The number of epidermal Langerhans cells and mast cells decreases, which contributes to a higher sensitivity. The aging skin is characterized by a reduced sebum production and a reduced sweating capacity.
- the human organism is constantly exposed to oxidative processes. Endogenous, natural metabolic processes in every cell are an important source of oxidatively active substances. Mitochondria, as well as enzymatic processes, produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) 1 such as superoxide, hydroperoxides and hydroxy radicals. Exogenous environmental factors such as smoke, smog, UV radiation, but also nutrition are a major cause of oxidative stress. Against these sources protects the organism by a number of systemic antioxidants. He sometimes produces it himself, sometimes they have to be taken in as essential vitamins with food. The antioxidants protect macromolecules (structural proteins, lipid membranes, DNA) from damage or destruction by reactive oxygen species.
- ROS reactive oxygen species
- Adenosine triphosphate is a key molecule in the energy balance of living cells, as it is the source of cellular responses. This energy requires the skin and its appendages for biochemical syntheses and transport processes so that metabolic processes and cellular structures can be optimally maintained and renewed, e.g. during repair processes or in the hair cycle.
- ATP is produced in the mitochondria.
- the electron transport on the inner membrane causes superoxide radicals, which are converted into peroxides by dismutation and subsequently react to hydroxyl radicals.
- radicals are constantly being produced which, by their reactivity, damage proteins and nucleic acids of the mitochondria, and thus impair their function themselves. The performance of mitochondria in gaining energy in old age therefore decreases significantly.
- the present invention therefore relates to an agent for the treatment of the hair or the skin, containing an extract of plants belonging to the family of the Oleaceae.
- the plants belonging to the family Oleaceae are selected from plants of the genera Abeliophyllum, Chionanthus, Comoranthus, Dimetra, Fontanesia, Forestiera, Forsythia, Fraxinus, Haenianthus, Hesperelaea, Jasminum, Ligustrum, Menodora, Myxopyrum, Nestegis, Noronhia, Noteiaea. Nyctanthes, Olea, Osmanthus, Phillyrea, Picconia, Priogymnanthus, Schrebera and Syringa, especially among plants of the genus Olea.
- Preferred plants are the plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae selected from plants of the species or subspecies Abeliophyllum distichum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. eburneum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. lilacinum, Chionanthus filiformis, Chionanthus ramiflorus, Chionanthus retusus, Chionanthus virginicus, Comoranthus madagascariensis, Comoranthus minor, Dimetra craibiana, Fontanesia phillyreoides, Fontanesia phillyreoides subsp.
- fortunei forestiera acuminata, forestiera eggersiana, forestiera neo-mexicana, forestiera segregata, forestiera segregata var. pinetorum, forsythia europaea, forsythia giraldiana, forsythia japonica, forsythia japonica var. saxatilis, forsythia nakaii, forsythia ovata, forsythia suspensa, forsythia viridissima, forsythia koridis var. koreana, forsythia x intermedia, forsythia sp.
- Fraxinus americana Fraxinus angustifolia, Fraxinus anomala, Fraxinus biltmoreana, Fraxinus chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis var. Rhynchophylla, Fraxinus cuspidata, Fraxinus cuspidata var. Macropetala, Fraxinus dipetala, Fraxinus excelsior, Fraxinus excelsior var.
- Subintegerrima Fraxinus platypoda, Fraxinus quadrangulata, Fraxinus rynchophylla, Fraxinus syriaca, Fraxinus texensis, Fraxinus diminous, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides var. dimorpha, Haenianthus incrassatus, Haenianthus salicifolius, Haenianthus salicifolius var.
- the extract from plants belonging to the family Oleaceae is obtained from the leaves of the plants, in particular by an extraction method described in EP-B-0 730 830, to which reference is hereby made in its entirety.
- the agent according to the invention very particularly preferably contains an extract which has a high content of antioxidants, in particular of oleuropein.
- the content of oleuropein in the extract is preferably in the range from 10 to 30% by weight, in particular from 15 to 28% by weight, particularly preferably from 18 to 26% by weight.
- Such an extract is for example from the company Emil Flachsmann AG, Rütiwisstrasse, 8820 Wädenswil, Switzerland, http://www.flachsmann.ch. available under article number 0085943.
- the agent according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, in particular L-camitine and / or creatine.
- various effects of skin aging can be influenced by the broad spectrum of action of the extract from Olea europaea with only one extract.
- the antioxidant properties of the extract protect the skin from oxidative environmental influences.
- the stimulation of collagen synthesis leads to an increased build-up of connective tissue, the structure of which decreases with age, thus promoting the firmness of the skin.
- the extract from Olea europaea has antioxidant properties against the formation of hydroxy radicals. Compared with superoxides, it has better properties than the water-soluble standard substance vitamin C.
- the extract from Olea europaea has only a very low cytotoxicity.
- the treatment of the hair or the skin with the composition according to the invention is intended in particular to effects that are selected by revitalizing hair, stimulating the hair Energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing keratin synthesis, maintenance or promotion of homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma, skin sarcoma.
- pathological conditions of the skin such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis,
- Keratin production is particularly coupled to the growth phase of the hair (anagen), in the regression phase (catagen) there is a significant decrease in keratin production.
- the hair keratins also play a role in various genetic diseases, such as monilethrix. Due to pure point mutation in the keratin genes hHb1 and hHb ⁇ Monilethrix leads to an irregular, brittle hair structure. In addition, there is a disturbed anchoring of the hair shaft in the follicle. Since the hair structure depends essentially on the composition of the hair keratins, it is possible to influence the hair structure by influencing the composition of these specific proteins on a biological level.
- the amount of ATP in the treated follicles can be significantly increased compared to a placebo formulation.
- the treatment with an agent according to the invention in a rinse-off formulation likewise leads to a significant increase in the ATP content in plucked hair follicles.
- the biologically active part of the hair is provided significantly more ATP as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes, so that metabolic processes and cellular structures can be optimally maintained and renewed.
- composition according to the invention may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates, preferably cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
- the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
- cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
- the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
- the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
- the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and cited: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiC, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Coco
- the agent is preferably rinsed out after an exposure time of 10 seconds to 60 hours. This Rinsing can be done with pure water or a commercially available shampoo. Action times of 1 to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.
- composition according to the invention may additionally contain in addition a further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these active substances ,
- the monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, Isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylgluta
- the C 2 -C 24 -acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl- , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical.
- C 8 -C 18 acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are also preferred substituents.
- the physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.
- amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids.
- the oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified.
- amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce, or are capable of, repair processes in the tissue, eg collagen synthesis, via the release of growth factors To bind the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts.
- TSP-1 thrombospondin I
- TGF-ß tissue growth factor
- N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (e.g. Calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine ( ⁇ -Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg.
- acetyl-citrullyl-arginine eg Exsy-algins of exsymol
- Tyr-Arg dipeptide-1
- Val-Trp dipeptide-2
- Asn Phe Asp-Phe
- N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His N-acetyl-Ty
- N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component
- the tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu 2+ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used
- the substitution of Gly the following are suitable according to the invention: Ala, Leu and He
- the inventively preferred amino acids which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g.
- Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn, or citrulline
- Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripotide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, the z.
- N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides.
- Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.
- Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma.
- the Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z.
- the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg.
- at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary.
- the substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below.
- Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which may substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.
- the preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He).
- the preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine.
- the preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.
- ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (He). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.
- ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.
- ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.
- N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Name Matrixyl is available from the company Sederma, furthermore N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition).
- N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are VaI-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g.
- Collasyn 6VY from TPI myristoyl hexapep tide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincienc or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem) , Hexapeptide-2 (e
- hexapeptide-4 e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)
- hexapeptide-5 e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI
- myristoyl hexapep tide-5 e.g Collasyn 614VY from TPI
- myristoyl hexapeptide-6 eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI
- Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp hexapeptide- 7
- hexapeptide-8 eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI
- myristoyl hexapeptide-8 eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI
- hexapeptide-9 eg Collaxyl from Vincience
- hexapeptide-10 eg, Collaxyl from Vincience
- hexapeptide-10 eg, Colla
- An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z.
- Vinci 01 by Vincience Pentadecapeptide-1.
- Another preferred optional amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistin from exsymol).
- Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.
- the composition according to the invention particularly preferably contains further agents for promoting collagen synthesis, in particular Matrixyl TM and Matrixyl TM 3000.
- Matrixyl TM and Matrixyl TM 3000 available, for example, from Sederma, are mixtures of modified peptides derived from the so-called matrikines.
- Matrikines are peptide fragments of up to 20 amino acids resulting from the proteolysis of matrix proteins such as collagen or elastin. These fragments act as autocrine and paracrine messengers and affect cell proliferation and connective tissue neoplasm.
- Matrixyl TM and Matrixyl TM 3000 lead to increased collagen synthesis in in vitro studies (in the case of Matrixyl TM 3000 + 258% collagen type I). In vivo, both peptide combinations show a reduction in wrinkles both in depth and number. In vitro tests showed that the enhancement of Collagen I synthesis with Matrixyl® is three times greater than with Vitamin C; and at collagen IV over 50% larger.
- the agent according to the invention at a temperature of 20 to 55 0 C, in particular from 35 to 40 0 C, apply.
- composition according to the invention is applied to the hair, there are no fundamental restrictions.
- the agent according to the invention particularly preferably comprises further agents for altering or nuancing the color of the hair of the head: apart from the hair-bleaching agents which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of natural hair dyes, essentially three types of hair dye are used in the field of hair coloring significant:
- oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
- dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. This is Dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable change in shade or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much faster.
- composition of the usable dyeing or tinting agent is not subject to any principal
- developer-type oxidation dye precursors there are usually primary aromatic amines having another para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
- Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p - phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy -2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-amino
- Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
- coupler type oxidation dye precursors m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used.
- coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3
- Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-
- Chlororesorcinol 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene
- Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
- Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7
- Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
- Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
- Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-
- Coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4- Chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
- Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
- Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1, 4-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino 6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzo
- Direct dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alcano root.
- the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes it is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the hair dye, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the Dyeing or other reasons, such. As toxicological, must be excluded.
- indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
- such indoles and indolines are used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
- These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of a Etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
- Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
- N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and also N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole. dihydroxyindole.
- indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg.
- hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used as the hydrochlorides.
- amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
- Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
- a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
- Hair dyes especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11.
- the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
- Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
- monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
- ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
- oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition of Products are used on urea, melamine or sodium borate.
- oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred.
- enzymes the enzymes being used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of oxidizing agents present.
- the enzymes enzyme class 1: oxidoreductases
- Oxidases such as tyrosinase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
- the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair.
- the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium.
- the application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed.
- the Nach Warren with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.
- the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and nachshampooniert if desired.
- the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
- an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10.
- the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.
- the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
- metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
- Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
- the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
- Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
- emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (known as phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays , Aerosols and foam aerosols.
- alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
- Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol / water, may be preferred bases according to the invention.
- the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred.
- acids are used as acids.
- By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
- citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.
- Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
- the agent may in principle contain all other known to those skilled in such cosmetic means components.
- auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid poly glycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yl oligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and Polysorbate.
- nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
- anionic surfactants in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumg
- N-alkyltaurines N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group
- nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / inyl acrylate copolymers
- Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic,
- Derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic
- Hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,
- Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
- Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether , Di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n Undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-
- Fatty alcohols in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose , Fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,
- Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
- Light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, -
- Other substances for adjusting the pH such as ⁇ - and ß-hydroxycarboxylic acids
- Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,
- Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
- Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
- Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
- Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,
- Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
- Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
- composition of the invention may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.
- a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used.
- anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used.
- the skilled person can also largely or completely dispense with the use of surfactants.
- Suitable anionic surfactants in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example
- Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group
- Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
- the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
- Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
- oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
- the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
- these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
- the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
- R 1 consists essentially of C 8 and C 10 alkyl groups, essentially of C 12 and C 14 alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 to C 16 alkyl groups or essentially of C 12 - to C 16 alkyl groups.
- sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
- sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
- Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
- Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
- the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
- the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
- this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
- alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
- zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO 9 or -SOa ⁇ 'group in the molecule.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl- carboxymethylglycinat.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
- ampholytic surfactants are to be understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are.
- ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12-18 -acylsarcosine.
- the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
- Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
- cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
- the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
- Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
- Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
- Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
- alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
- An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
- the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
- both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
- "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
- Another object of the present invention is the use of extracts from plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, to revitalize hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing the Keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion of homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma.
- pathological conditions of the skin such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyo
- the extract according to the invention for the vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles and hair thickening.
- Another object of the present invention is a method for revitalizing hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing the keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion of the homeostasis of the hair follicle or Treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma, characterized in that an inventive agent on the hair or applying the skin.
- pathological conditions of the skin such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, icht
- the extract of leaves of Olea europaea is an ethanolic extract. In the special case, it is an extract of 80% ethanol, which was obtained in a patented process (EP-B-0 730 830) from Flachsmann (article number 0085943).
- the patented process has a particularly gentle effect on contained antioxidants such as oleuropein. Accordingly, the extract contains high amounts of oleuropein (18-26%).
- the concentration (in ⁇ g / ml) at which the lipid peroxidation was reduced by 50% was determined in comparison with the determination without addition of plant extract. That the lower the indicated concentration of LDL50, the higher the antioxidative capacity of the investigated Olea europaea extract.
- the reference substances used were the antioxidants Lipochroman-6, Trolox, BHT, tocopherol and methyl catechol.
- the antioxidant potential with respect to superoxides is determined with the aid of chemiluminescence methods and measured with a measuring instrument from Jenanalytics.
- V max is reached at a later time t Prob ⁇ .
- the extract from Olea europaea has antioxidant properties against the formation of hydroxy radicals. It has slightly better properties compared to superoxides than the water-soluble standard substance vitamin C (Table 1)
- fibroblasts were first sown on a matrix consisting of collagen, chitosan and glucosaminoglucan. After a 28-day cultivation period of the
- Fibroblasts were started with systemic treatment.
- the treatment was carried out by adding the test substances or the positive control to the medium. Treatment was done every two days, i. three times within 6 days.
- the measuring method is based on the particularly high content of proline and hydroxyproline in
- Collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin model For the last 24 hours of culture, 5 ⁇ Ci / ml of 3H-proline was added. At the end of the test, this was present in the matrix Collagen specifically degraded collagen, precipitated the remaining protein and the incorporated activity in the supernatant (collagen) and in the precipitate (non-collagen proteins) measured. By determining the incorporated radioactivity in the collagen compared to the non-collagenous proteins, the percentage of collagen in the total protein can be determined.
- the extract from Olea europaea increased the collagen synthesis of the fibroblasts dose-dependent compared to the untreated control to a maximum of 148%.
- the positive control vitamin C at a concentration of 44 ⁇ g / ml induced collagen synthesis to 144%.
- the extract from Olea europaea thus shows a comparable biological effect. (Table 2)
- the vitality of the was tested by a dye test, the MTT test.
- the MTT test provides information about cell proliferation and cytotoxicity. In the test, the metabolic activity of living cells is determined. The exact performance of the assay is described in J. Immunol. Methods 65, 55, 1983 (T. Mosmann), which is incorporated herein by reference.
- the tetrazolium salt 3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MIT) is enzymatically reduced in living cells and converted to a blue, water-insoluble formazan salt. This formazan salt is extracted and quantified photometrically. The color intensity of the formazan salt solution can be correlated with the number of living cells or with the vitality of a tissue in the examined sample.
- Table 3 Vitality of cell cultures as a function of different concentrations of Olea europaea extract (% [standard deviation])
- an MTT50 value of about 2900 ⁇ g / ml can be determined. This value shows a very low cytotoxicity of the Olea europaea extract (Table 3).
- NHEK normal human epidermal keratinocytes
- dermal papilla cells by an extract according to the invention.
- the extract according to the invention was tested in vitro on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and on dermal papilla cells for its stimulating effect on intracellular ATP synthesis.
- the intracellular ATP content is measured by bioluminometric measurements with a luciferase assay. For this, the cell cultures are disrupted by means of an extraction buffer and the cell lysate is treated with a commercially available luciferase reagent. The resulting bioluminescent light is detected by means of a luminescence meter and is directly proportional to the amount of ATP present in the lysate.
- the tests were carried out with dilute solutions of various extracts.
- the extracts were diluted with the nutrient medium solution used for culturing the keratinocytes or dermal papilla cells (KGM nutrient medium from Cell Systems or Chang D Medium from Irvine Scientific) and homogenized.
- the test solutions contained the extracts in different concentrations.
- the experiments were carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK P 135 from Cell Systems). These are primary keratinocytes. After culturing the cells in the KGM culture medium, the cells were seeded in 96-well microtiter plates with a density of approximately 2000 cells per well. After three days, the culture medium was exchanged for the various extract-containing test solutions.
- NHEK P 135 normal human epidermal keratinocytes
- the lysis buffer consisted of an aqueous solution of 10 mM TRIS (2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol), 1 mM EDTA, 100 mM NaCl, 5 mM M9C12 and 1% by weight Nonidet P 40 ( ethoxylated fatty alcohol, Shell).
- the ATP determinations were made using the ATPLite TM -m assay (Packard).
- the test principle of this assay is based on the fact that Photinus pyralis luciferase catalyzes a reaction in which D-luciferin is converted to oxyluciferin in the presence of ATP. In this reaction, green light is emitted which can be measured with a luminometer. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.
- ATP content in keratinocytes 50 ⁇ l of the cell lysate were pipetted into a black luminometer microtiter plate, admixed with 50 ⁇ l luciferase reagent from the ATPLite TM -m assay kit and, after a further 10 min incubation in the dark, inserted into the luminometer, which detects the occurring bioluminescence at room temperature.
- the calibration of the luminometer was carried out by bioluminescence measurements with ATP.
- the standard solutions were in the concentration range from 1, 6 - 10-9 to 1, 0 - 10 - 6 mol ATP / I.
- the equation of the calibration line was used to calculate the ATP concentration in the cell lysates.
- ATP activity in dermal papilla cells are precultured in a suitable manner to obtain their specific properties, as described in DE10162814, and transferred to a 48-well cell culture dish.
- the olive leaf extract was treated for 6 hours against an untreated control.
- the cells were lysed for 5 min on a shaker with in each case 100 ⁇ l / well of a lysis buffer contained in the test kit.
- the cells were then incubated for a further 5 min with in each case 100 .mu.l / well with the supplied substrate solution on the shaker and then transferred to the reaction mixture in a black microtiter plate. After an incubation time of 10 min in the dark, the luminescence was measured.
- the hair structure is essentially dependent on the composition of specific hair-specific structural proteins, the hair keratins. By influencing the composition of these specific proteins, it is possible to influence the hair structure on a biological level.
- the expression of various hair keratins in the organotypic model can be examined by means of a quantitative real-time PCR method.
- the RNA is first isolated from the organotypic models using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription.
- the subsequent PCR reaction which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair keratins and which serves to amplify the desired gene segments, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal.
- the fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
- the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significant.
- organotypic models with different concentrations of leaf extract from Olea europea were systemically treated for 6 h and 24 h.
- the leaf extract from Olea europea increased the gene expression of hair keratins hHa3-l and hHa4 in the organotypic model compared to the untreated control after 24 hours of application by a maximum of 5.6. (Table 6)
- Polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone) (DOW CORNING) 11 dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, with diethylsi active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF) 12 3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GREENING)
- Salary about 20-24% Salcare SC 96
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Abstract
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DE102005030460A DE102005030460A1 (de) | 2005-06-28 | 2005-06-28 | Mittel zur Behandlung des Haares oder der Haut, das einen Extrakt aus Pflanzen enthält, die der Familie der Oleaceae angehören |
PCT/EP2006/004705 WO2007000214A1 (de) | 2005-06-28 | 2006-05-18 | Mittel zur behandlung des haares oder der haut, das einen extrakt aus pflanzen enthält, die der familie der oleaceae angehören |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP1901707A1 true EP1901707A1 (de) | 2008-03-26 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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EP06753698A Ceased EP1901707A1 (de) | 2005-06-28 | 2006-05-18 | Mittel zur behandlung des haares oder der haut, das einen extrakt aus pflanzen enthält, die der familie der oleaceae angehören |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1901707A1 (de) |
DE (1) | DE102005030460A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2007000214A1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (14)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP2246098A1 (de) | 2009-04-27 | 2010-11-03 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Färbemittelzusammensetzung |
WO2011003695A1 (en) * | 2009-07-10 | 2011-01-13 | Unilever Plc | Hair treatment compositions |
FR2968552B1 (fr) * | 2010-12-14 | 2012-12-28 | Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale | Utilisation cosmetique d'un extrait de manne de frene |
CN102631417B (zh) * | 2011-02-12 | 2014-03-19 | 南京农业大学 | 一种止血中药提取物及其制备方法 |
CN102631418B (zh) * | 2011-02-12 | 2014-07-23 | 南京农业大学 | 一种消炎、镇痛中药提取物及其制备方法 |
KR20150010778A (ko) * | 2012-05-14 | 2015-01-28 | 바이오코젠트, 엘엘씨 | 섬유아세포 붕괴의 방지 |
KR101689700B1 (ko) * | 2014-08-06 | 2016-12-26 | 대구한의대학교산학협력단 | 이팝나무 종자 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부 노화 관련 퇴행성 질환의 예방 및 치료용 화장료 조성물 |
EP3411012A4 (de) | 2016-02-04 | 2019-08-28 | Alastin Skincare, Inc. | Zusammensetzungen und verfahren für invasive und nicht-invasive prozedurale hautpflege |
KR101956426B1 (ko) * | 2016-04-26 | 2019-03-11 | 괴산군 | 미선나무 추출액을 이용한 탈모방지용 샴푸 조성물 |
AU2018309058B2 (en) | 2017-08-03 | 2023-02-16 | ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. | Compositions and methods for ameliorating skin laxity and body contour |
WO2019028214A1 (en) * | 2017-08-03 | 2019-02-07 | Zivmas Llc | COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR PROMOTING HAIR GROWTH |
WO2020028694A1 (en) | 2018-08-02 | 2020-02-06 | ALASTIN Skincare, Inc. | Liposomal compositions and methods of use |
KR102318606B1 (ko) * | 2021-03-31 | 2021-10-29 | 주식회사 뉴앤뉴 | 박달목서 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 항산화용 화장료 조성물 |
CN115721588A (zh) * | 2022-11-12 | 2023-03-03 | 贵州省轻工业科学研究所 | 一种含小叶女贞、火龙果茎提取物和丝瓜组织液的中药组合物及其在护肤品中的用途 |
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DE3901286A1 (de) * | 1989-01-18 | 1990-07-19 | Pearson & Co Gmbh & Co | Haartonikum mit pflanzlichen hypertonika |
JP2977648B2 (ja) * | 1991-07-19 | 1999-11-15 | 鐘紡株式会社 | 養毛化粧料 |
AU678929B2 (en) * | 1995-03-06 | 1997-06-12 | Frutarom Schweiz Ag | A process for the removal of undesired lipophilic contaminations and/or residues, which are contained in beverages or in vegetable preparations |
JPH1067674A (ja) * | 1996-06-19 | 1998-03-10 | Advanced Sukin Res Kenkyusho:Kk | 細胞外マトリツクスの異常蓄積抑制剤 |
IT1298283B1 (it) * | 1998-02-19 | 1999-12-20 | B & T S R L | Uso dell'estratto delle foglie di olea europea come antiradicalico |
FR2808191B1 (fr) * | 2000-04-28 | 2004-03-05 | Oreal | Extrait de vegetal de l'espece olea europaea comme inhibiteur de no-synthase et utilisations |
FR2811224B1 (fr) * | 2000-07-05 | 2002-08-23 | Clarins Laboratoires S A S | Composition cosmetique pour le soin des peaux sensibles |
FR2815852B1 (fr) * | 2000-11-02 | 2002-12-13 | Seporga Lab | Preparations cosmetiques ou dermo-pharmaceutiques contenant un melange d'enzymes, d'extrait de feuilles d'olivier, de jus de citron et de sucres hydrogenes |
FR2830195B1 (fr) * | 2001-10-03 | 2004-10-22 | Sederma Sa | Compositions cosmetiques et dermopharmaceutiques pour les peaux a tendance acneique |
FR2831441B1 (fr) * | 2001-10-25 | 2003-12-26 | Oreal | Utilisation cosmetique de derives de la dhea |
FR2831443B1 (fr) * | 2001-10-30 | 2005-02-11 | Oreal | Utilisation d'extraits vegetaux pour ameliorer la fonction barriere de la peau |
DE10154368A1 (de) * | 2001-11-06 | 2003-05-15 | Henkel Kgaa | Beta-Glucuronidase-Inhibitoren in Deodorantien und Antitranspirantien |
US6743449B2 (en) * | 2002-02-13 | 2004-06-01 | Skinceuticals, Inc. | Topical composition comprising olive leaf extract |
DE10213019A1 (de) * | 2002-03-22 | 2003-10-02 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Verwendung von Extrakten des Olivenbaumes als Antischuppenmittel |
DE10260955A1 (de) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-07-08 | Henkel Kgaa | Verwendung von Steroidsulfatase-Inhibitoren zur Verminderung von Haarausfall |
FR2855749B1 (fr) * | 2003-06-03 | 2005-08-19 | Silab Sa | Procede d'obtention d'un principe actif dote de proprietes de photoprotection, principe actif obtenu et compositions l'incluant |
EP1495798A1 (de) * | 2003-07-01 | 2005-01-12 | B & T S.r.l. | Emulgator aus der Natur |
BRPI0417884A (pt) * | 2003-12-30 | 2007-04-27 | Med Care S R L | composições compreendendo vitaminas e/ou derivados das mesmas, estabilizados com extrato de olea europea e/ou polìmeros de ioneno |
FR2864785B1 (fr) * | 2004-01-06 | 2006-02-10 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant un extrait de feuille d'olivier et un extrait d'eau de vegetation des olives |
EP1640041A3 (de) * | 2004-09-24 | 2006-05-24 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien | Kosmetische und dermatologische Zusammensetzungen zur Behandlung reifer oder lichtgeschädigter Haut |
-
2005
- 2005-06-28 DE DE102005030460A patent/DE102005030460A1/de not_active Ceased
-
2006
- 2006-05-18 EP EP06753698A patent/EP1901707A1/de not_active Ceased
- 2006-05-18 WO PCT/EP2006/004705 patent/WO2007000214A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See references of WO2007000214A1 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO2007000214A1 (de) | 2007-01-04 |
DE102005030460A1 (de) | 2007-01-04 |
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