EP1901707A1 - Hair or skin treating agent containing an extract of an oleaceae family plant - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair of skin treating agent containing at least one type of extract of an oleacea family plant. The use of said one or several extracts for treating hairs or the skin is also disclosed.

Description

Agent for the treatment of hair or skin containing an extract of plants belonging to the family Oleaceae

Description:

The present invention relates to an agent for the treatment of the hair or the skin, containing at least one extract from plants belonging to the family of the Oleaceae. Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of one or more such extracts for the treatment of the hair or the skin.

The Oleaceae (olive tree plants) are a medium-sized, almost world-wide family, with (depending on the delimitation) about 20-30 genera and about 400-700 species. They are one of the basal groups within the derived order Lamiales (= Scrophulariales). Most Oleaceae are trees or shrubs, although the largest genus, jasmine, also includes a variety of spreizklimmender to winding forms. Among the most economically significant representatives of the Oleaceae is the real olive tree, or olive tree, Olea europaea.

Depending on the distribution area, olive trees bloom from the end of April to the beginning of June. The vierzähligen blooms consist of four petals and four sepals, which surround the stamens and the stamp and stand on panicles, which carry between 10 and 40 blooms. If the tree is stressed by dryness or lack of nutrients about six weeks before flowering, the yield decreases because the number of flowers is reduced and flowers do not come to fruit. Most varieties are self-pollinated, with cross-pollination usually increasing the yield. However, some varieties are dependent on cross-pollination and need a genetically diverse copy for pollination. The flower is pollinated by the wind. The olive tree is an evergreen plant, meaning that it does not lose its foliage at any time of the year. The small leaves are greyish green on top and silvery shiny and gray colored on the underside. They are narrow and run pointedly forward (lancet-like). At the bottom, they have small hairs, called star hairs or star-shaped dandruff, which protect the tree from dehydration by catching water escaping from the stomata and adding it to the leaf again.

From a fruit after fertilization the fruit is formed: olive. It is a core fruit with a hard core surrounded by soft pulp. The color of the unripe olives is green, that of the ripe black or violet / brown. The most productive is the tree after about 20 years. The average composition of an olive is: water 50%, oil 22%, sugar 19.1%, cellulose 5.8%, proteins 1, 6%. The olive is a Mediterranean stone fruit. It is raw because of their bitterness not edible, but after repeated immersion in water, in which the Bitter substances are flushed out, edible. Black olives are fully matured green (olive) olives. The olive tree is used in several ways:

• Economically important is above all the fruit, the olive, which can be further processed and used as food. Directly from the tree, the olive is barely edible because of its bitterness. It is put into a brine that removes the bitter substances, and is often used in Mediterranean cuisine in bread, ragouts, salads and sauces.

• Likewise, olive oil is pressed from it, the healthiest known edible oil. It is used for frying and cooking and also in cosmetics. Industrially, the olives for the oil are either picked by hand or shaken down with the machine, chopped, mixed with water and hydraulically pressed, partly (depending on the purpose) also extracted with chemical solvents or thermal processes. On the other hand, top qualities for the kitchen are obtained with gentler methods, preferably the drip method, in which only the weight of the fruit is pressed without further pressure on the fruit. Then the oil is separated from the water in the centrifuge.

• Because of its wood, which is processed into furniture or utensils.

• As a medicinal plant, especially because of its leaves, which have a soothing and sleep-inducing effect, strengthening the immune system and lowering cholesterol levels. The oil is healthy because of the high content of monounsaturated fatty acids and has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system and lipid metabolism and reduces the risk of diabetes or cancer.

The human skin with its appendages is a very complex organ composed of a variety of different cell types. Every living cell of this organ is able to respond to signals of its internal and external environment. These reactions of the cells are realized by an orderly regulation on gene and protein level, so that the metabolism of skin cells and their appendages is not static but very dynamic. However, the reactions of the skin and / or its appendages to environmental changes should not be considered as reactions of isolated isolated cells. Rather, each cell is integrated into a complex communication network. This network includes e.g. the communication between cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages, signal molecules, e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.

The aging process is a fundamental biological process found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly, the human skin is affected by this phenomenon. Skin aging is a progressive process leading to a loss of skin homeostasis. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects as a "genetically controlled program" are responsible for the exogenous factors environmental influences such as UV light.

The skin of old age differs in different points from youthful skin. These are not only externally visible changes, effects of aging are to be detected at the cellular level, molecular genetic level and protein level. It has various biological characteristics, as shown by biopsied specimens (US Patent 6,630,516,).

At the cellular level, skin aging is characterized by a reduction in metabolic activity and by a 30-50% reduction in epidermal and dermal renewal rates. Histologically, the basal membrane (dermal-epidermal junction) flattened, resulting in a decreased nutrient transfer into the epidermis empties. Stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis are thinner in old age, associated with a decrease and structural change of the components of the extracellular matrix. The number of epidermal Langerhans cells and mast cells decreases, which contributes to a higher sensitivity. The aging skin is characterized by a reduced sebum production and a reduced sweating capacity. Alteration of these morphometric parameters with increasing age is accompanied by changes in biochemical and molecular biological parameters in the skin. Examples include enzyme activities that can be seen in connection with the remodeling of the extracellular matrix of the dermis. They increase in age to twice their activity. This effect is u.a. attributed to an increased expression of collagenase at the molecular biological level and as the cause of the changes in the extracellular matrix. It could be caught by increased production of connective tissue material. In fact, however, a decrease in the production of connective tissue material in the group with the oldest subjects is observed by more than 50%. The regression of the connective tissue in old age is thus not counteracted.

All these changes in the skin structure and skin physiology lead to a dry, wrinkled and flaccid, sometimes hyperpigmented appearance.

The human organism is constantly exposed to oxidative processes. Endogenous, natural metabolic processes in every cell are an important source of oxidatively active substances. Mitochondria, as well as enzymatic processes, produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) ₁ such as superoxide, hydroperoxides and hydroxy radicals. Exogenous environmental factors such as smoke, smog, UV radiation, but also nutrition are a major cause of oxidative stress. Against these sources protects the organism by a number of systemic antioxidants. He sometimes produces it himself, sometimes they have to be taken in as essential vitamins with food. The antioxidants protect macromolecules (structural proteins, lipid membranes, DNA) from damage or destruction by reactive oxygen species.

In the non-stressed organism there is a firm balance between produced oxidants and protective antioxidants. Under certain conditions, this balance can be However, be disturbed (smoke, UV radiation). An organ, a cell depleted of antioxidants, the oxidative processes gain the upper hand and damage macromolecules. Photoaging is one of the known effects of such imbalance between oxidants and antioxidants in human skin.

Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is a key molecule in the energy balance of living cells, as it is the source of cellular responses. This energy requires the skin and its appendages for biochemical syntheses and transport processes so that metabolic processes and cellular structures can be optimally maintained and renewed, e.g. during repair processes or in the hair cycle.

Within a cell, ATP is produced in the mitochondria. The electron transport on the inner membrane causes superoxide radicals, which are converted into peroxides by dismutation and subsequently react to hydroxyl radicals. In the course of a cell's life, radicals are constantly being produced which, by their reactivity, damage proteins and nucleic acids of the mitochondria, and thus impair their function themselves. The performance of mitochondria in gaining energy in old age therefore decreases significantly.

It is known to use olive oil obtained from the fruits of the olive tree in cosmetic products.

However, the provision and use of a well-tolerated leaf extract of plants belonging to the family of the oleaceae capable of exhibiting antioxidant properties, stimulation of ATP production in keratinocytes and dermal papilla cells with simultaneous protection against oxidative damage, and hitherto unknown Combining the promotion of collagen synthesis, and thus to combat an important cause of stressed skin or aging skin and to stimulate the energy production in the hair root.

The present invention therefore relates to an agent for the treatment of the hair or the skin, containing an extract of plants belonging to the family of the Oleaceae.

Preferably, the plants belonging to the family Oleaceae are selected from plants of the genera Abeliophyllum, Chionanthus, Comoranthus, Dimetra, Fontanesia, Forestiera, Forsythia, Fraxinus, Haenianthus, Hesperelaea, Jasminum, Ligustrum, Menodora, Myxopyrum, Nestegis, Noronhia, Noteiaea. Nyctanthes, Olea, Osmanthus, Phillyrea, Picconia, Priogymnanthus, Schrebera and Syringa, especially among plants of the genus Olea.

Preferred plants are the plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae selected from plants of the species or subspecies Abeliophyllum distichum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. eburneum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. lilacinum, Chionanthus filiformis, Chionanthus ramiflorus, Chionanthus retusus, Chionanthus virginicus, Comoranthus madagascariensis, Comoranthus minor, Dimetra craibiana, Fontanesia phillyreoides, Fontanesia phillyreoides subsp. fortunei, forestiera acuminata, forestiera eggersiana, forestiera neo-mexicana, forestiera segregata, forestiera segregata var. pinetorum, forsythia europaea, forsythia giraldiana, forsythia japonica, forsythia japonica var. saxatilis, forsythia nakaii, forsythia ovata, forsythia suspensa, forsythia viridissima, forsythia koridis var. koreana, forsythia x intermedia, forsythia sp. Fraxinus americana, Fraxinus angustifolia, Fraxinus anomala, Fraxinus biltmoreana, Fraxinus chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis var. Rhynchophylla, Fraxinus cuspidata, Fraxinus cuspidata var. Macropetala, Fraxinus dipetala, Fraxinus excelsior, Fraxinus excelsior var. Diversifolia, Fraxinus greggii, Fraxinus latifolia Fraxinus longicuspis, Fraxinus mandshurica, Fraxinus nigra, Fraxinus ornus, Fraxinus oxyphylla, Fraxinus pallisae, Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. Aucubaefolia, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. Subintegerrima, Fraxinus platypoda, Fraxinus quadrangulata, Fraxinus rynchophylla, Fraxinus syriaca, Fraxinus texensis, Fraxinus diminous, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides var. dimorpha, Haenianthus incrassatus, Haenianthus salicifolius, Haenianthus salicifolius var. obovatus, Hesperelaea palmeri, Jasminum abyssinicum, Jasminum attenuatum, Jasminum elegans, Jasminum floribundum, Jasminum fluminense, Jasminum frut icans, Jasminum humile, Jasminum lanceolarium, Jasminum leratii, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum multiflorum, Jasminum nervosum, Jasminum nitidum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum odoratissimum, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum polyanthum, Jasminum sinense, Jasminum suavissimum, Ligustrum acutissimum, Ligustrum compactum, Ligustrum ibota, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum massalongianum, Ligustrum obtusifolium, Ligustrum ovalifolium, Ligustrum sempervirens, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum vulgare, Menodora africana, Menodora integrifolia, Menodora scabra, Myxopyrum nervosum, Myxopyrum smilacifolium, Myxopyrum smilacifolium var. Confertum, Nestegis apetala, Nestegis cunninghamii, Nestegis lanceolata , Nestegis sandwicensis, Noronhia emarginata, Noteiaea longifolia, Noteiaea microcarpa, Noteiaea punctata, Nyctanthes aculeata, Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, Olea brachiata, Olea capensis, Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata, Osmanthus americanus, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus heterophyllus, Osmanthus insularis, Osmanthus rigidus, Osmanthus sp. Reeves 12, Phillyrea angustifolia, Phillyrea latifolia, Phillyrea media, Picconia excelsa, Priogymnanthus apertus, Priogymnanthus hasslerianus, Schrebera alata, Schrebera mazoensis, Syringa amurensis, Syringa emodi, Syringa julianae, Syringa komarowii, Syringa meyeri, Syringa microphylla, Syringa microphylla x Syringa meyeri , Syringa oblata, Syringa patula, Syringa pekinensis, Syringa pinnatifolia, Syringa pubescens, Syringa reflexa, Syringa reticulata, Syringa tigerstedtii, Syringa villosa, Syringa vulgarii, Syringa wolfii and Syringa yunnanensis, especially among plants of the species or subspecies Olea brachiata, Olea capensis , Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata and especially preferred among plants of the species Olea europaea.

Particularly preferably, the extract from plants belonging to the family Oleaceae is obtained from the leaves of the plants, in particular by an extraction method described in EP-B-0 730 830, to which reference is hereby made in its entirety.

The agent according to the invention very particularly preferably contains an extract which has a high content of antioxidants, in particular of oleuropein.

The content of oleuropein in the extract is preferably in the range from 10 to 30% by weight, in particular from 15 to 28% by weight, particularly preferably from 18 to 26% by weight. Such an extract is for example from the company Emil Flachsmann AG, Rütiwisstrasse, 8820 Wädenswil, Switzerland, http://www.flachsmann.ch. available under article number 0085943.

The agent according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, in particular L-camitine and / or creatine.

Advantageously, various effects of skin aging can be influenced by the broad spectrum of action of the extract from Olea europaea with only one extract.

The antioxidant properties of the extract protect the skin from oxidative environmental influences.

The stimulation of collagen synthesis leads to an increased build-up of connective tissue, the structure of which decreases with age, thus promoting the firmness of the skin.

By stimulating ATP production, the skin and its appendages receive the energy they need to build new structures, for example.

The extract from Olea europaea has antioxidant properties against the formation of hydroxy radicals. Compared with superoxides, it has better properties than the water-soluble standard substance vitamin C.

The extract from Olea europaea has only a very low cytotoxicity.

The treatment of the hair or the skin with the composition according to the invention is intended in particular to effects that are selected by revitalizing hair, stimulating the hair Energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing keratin synthesis, maintenance or promotion of homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma, skin sarcoma.

Particularly noteworthy here is the influence of keratin synthesis, since hair keratins play an important role in hair growth, they are involved as cellular structural proteins in the construction of hair and nails. To date, 16 genes of the human hair keratin family have been identified (hHa1, hHa2, hHa3-1, hHa3-ll, hHa4, hHa5, hHa6, hHa7, hHaδ, hHb1, hHb2, hHb3, hHb4, hHb5, hHbδ, K6irs). Keratin production is particularly coupled to the growth phase of the hair (anagen), in the regression phase (catagen) there is a significant decrease in keratin production. In addition, the hair keratins also play a role in various genetic diseases, such as monilethrix. Due to pure point mutation in the keratin genes hHb1 and hHbθ Monilethrix leads to an irregular, brittle hair structure. In addition, there is a disturbed anchoring of the hair shaft in the follicle. Since the hair structure depends essentially on the composition of the hair keratins, it is possible to influence the hair structure by influencing the composition of these specific proteins on a biological level.

By treating head hair with a hair or skin treatment agent of the present invention, for example a suitable formulation hair tonic, the amount of ATP in the treated follicles can be significantly increased compared to a placebo formulation. The treatment with an agent according to the invention in a rinse-off formulation likewise leads to a significant increase in the ATP content in plucked hair follicles. Thus, the biologically active part of the hair is provided significantly more ATP as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes, so that metabolic processes and cellular structures can be optimally maintained and renewed.

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates, preferably cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually gives a protein hydrolyzate with a Molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and cited: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiC, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltri Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurydimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hy Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin , Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silica, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Although the composition according to the invention can in principle remain on the hair, the agent is preferably rinsed out after an exposure time of 10 seconds to 60 hours. This Rinsing can be done with pure water or a commercially available shampoo. Action times of 1 to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.

The composition according to the invention may additionally contain in addition a further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these active substances ,

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, Isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate. The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl- , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are also preferred substituents. The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce, or are capable of, repair processes in the tissue, eg collagen synthesis, via the release of growth factors To bind the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (e.g. Calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used For the substitution of Gly, the following are suitable according to the invention: Ala, Leu and He The inventively preferred amino acids which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. B. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn, or citrulline Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripotide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, the z. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the designation SYN ^® - COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides via IMPAG), His-Ala-Om N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which may substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). The preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (He). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Name Matrixyl is available from the company Sederma, furthermore N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are VaI-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapep tide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincienc or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem) , Hexapeptide-2 (e.g., melanostatine-DM vo n Vincience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapep tide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp (hexapeptide- 7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred optional amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistin from exsymol). Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The composition according to the invention particularly preferably contains further agents for promoting collagen synthesis, in particular Matrixyl ™ and Matrixyl ™ 3000. Matrixyl ™ and Matrixyl ™ 3000, available, for example, from Sederma, are mixtures of modified peptides derived from the so-called matrikines. Matrikines are peptide fragments of up to 20 amino acids resulting from the proteolysis of matrix proteins such as collagen or elastin. These fragments act as autocrine and paracrine messengers and affect cell proliferation and connective tissue neoplasm. The peptide combinations of Matrixyl ™ and Matrixyl ™ 3000 lead to increased collagen synthesis in in vitro studies (in the case of Matrixyl ™ 3000 + 258% collagen type I). In vivo, both peptide combinations show a reduction in wrinkles both in depth and number. In vitro tests showed that the enhancement of Collagen I synthesis with Matrixyl® is three times greater than with Vitamin C; and at collagen IV over 50% larger.

Regardless of the exact course of the treatment, it has proven to be advantageous to apply the agent according to the invention at a temperature of 20 to 55 ⁰ C, in particular from 35 to 40 ⁰ C, apply.

With regard to the way in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the hair, there are no fundamental restrictions.

The agent according to the invention particularly preferably comprises further agents for altering or nuancing the color of the hair of the head: apart from the hair-bleaching agents which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of natural hair dyes, essentially three types of hair dye are used in the field of hair coloring significant:

For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. This is Dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable change in shade or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much faster.

Finally, another dyeing process has received much attention recently. In this method, precursors of the natural hair dye melanin are applied to the hair; These then form naturally-analogous dyes in the course of oxidative processes in the hair. Such a process with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as dye precursor has been described in EP-B1-530,229. In particular, multiple use of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, it is possible to reproduce natural hair color to people with graying hair. The coloration can be carried out with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant, so that no further oxidizing agents must be used. In individuals with originally medium blond to brown hair, the indoline can be used as the sole dye precursor.

The composition of the usable dyeing or tinting agent is not subject to any principal

Restrictions.

As a dye (precursor) e can

Developer and coupler type oxidation dye precursors,

Natural and synthetic direct dyes and

• Precursors of naturally occurring dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups are used.

As developer-type oxidation dye precursors, there are usually primary aromatic amines having another para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p - phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy -2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis (2-hydroxy-5 - aminophenyl) methane, 1, 4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1, 3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2 - (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1, 10-bis (2,5-bis) diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 and WO 94/08970 such. B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

As the coupler type oxidation dye precursors, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3

Hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5 -Amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-

Hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol,

1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2 , 4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1, 3

Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3

Bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino

3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-

Diamino-1-methylbenzene,

Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-

Chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,

Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,

Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7

Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-

dihydroxynaphthalene,

Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,

Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,

Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,

Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-

Amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4- Chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1, 4-bis- (β- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino 6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Direct dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alcano root.

It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the hair dye, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the Dyeing or other reasons, such. As toxicological, must be excluded.

With regard to the dyes which can be used in the hair-dyeing and tinting compositions, reference is expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Chapter 7 (pages 248-250, direct dyes) and chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors), published as Volume 7 of the series "Dermatology" (Editor: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), published by Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, and the "European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials", Issued by the European Community, available in disk form from the Federal Association of German industrial and commercial enterprises for pharmaceuticals, health products and personal care registered association, Mannheim, reference is made.

For example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes. Preferably, such indoles and indolines are used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of a Etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and also N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole. dihydroxyindole.

The indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used.

When using dye precursors of the indoline or indole type, it may be preferable to use them together with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the α-aminocarboxylic acids. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.

Hair dyes, especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group. The use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.

If the formation of the actual hair colors takes place within the framework of an oxidative process, conventional oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition of Products are used on urea, melamine or sodium borate. However, oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation by means of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of oxidizing agents present. Thus, the enzymes (enzyme class 1: oxidoreductases) can transfer electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ^° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The Nachwaschen with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

Especially with hair that is difficult to dye, the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and nachshampooniert if desired. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors is intended to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced. For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (known as phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays , Aerosols and foam aerosols. These are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis. As alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol / water, may be preferred bases according to the invention. The pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Usually, acids are used as acids. By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

In addition to the inventively mandatory extract of plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, the agent may in principle contain all other known to those skilled in such cosmetic means components.

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid poly glycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yl oligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and Polysorbate. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution. anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhy- droxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat, ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines,

N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / inyl acrylate copolymers,

Polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic,

Karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g.

Methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and

Derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic

Hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,

Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether , Di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n Undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-

Hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.

Butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,

Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose , Fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,

Almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil and phospholipids, for example soya lecithin,

Egg lecithin and cephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, - Other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and ß-hydroxycarboxylic acids

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,

Thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants.

The composition of the invention may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, for example in a shampoo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used. However, in a hair tonic, the skilled person can also largely or completely dispense with the use of surfactants.

It has proven advantageous in individual cases to select the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on

Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

Particular preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides in which R ¹ consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore prefer to use this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.

The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁹ or -SOa ^ 'group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl- carboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are to be understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 -acylsarcosine.

According to the invention, the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N ₁ N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred. With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

Another object of the present invention is the use of extracts from plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, to revitalize hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing the Keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion of homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma.

Particularly preferred is the use of the extract according to the invention for the vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles and hair thickening.

Another object of the present invention is a method for revitalizing hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing the keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion of the homeostasis of the hair follicle or Treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma, characterized in that an inventive agent on the hair or applying the skin.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:

Description of the extract

The extract of leaves of Olea europaea is an ethanolic extract. In the special case, it is an extract of 80% ethanol, which was obtained in a patented process (EP-B-0 730 830) from Flachsmann (article number 0085943). The patented process has a particularly gentle effect on contained antioxidants such as oleuropein. Accordingly, the extract contains high amounts of oleuropein (18-26%).

Example 1 :

Determination of the antioxidative potential against hydroxyl radicals (liposome peroxidation):

As a measure of the antioxidant capacity of the olea europaea extracts, their ability to prevent lipid peroxidation in liposomes was determined. For this purpose, a 0.2% by weight liposome suspension of soya lecithin in phosphate buffer was prepared. Lipid peroxidation was initiated by addition of an iron (II) ascorbate complex (10 mM Fe (II) SO4, 50 mM ascorbate). The incubation was at 37 ° C for 45 min. carried out. The final product of lipid peroxidation is malonaldehyde, which is quantified by a color reaction with thiobarbituric acid (photometric determination of the malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid complex at 532 nm). To determine the antioxidant capacity of the Olea europaea extract, this was added to the incubation mixture in different concentrations before the addition of the iron (II) ascorbate complex. The concentration (in μg / ml) at which the lipid peroxidation was reduced by 50% (= LDL50) was determined in comparison with the determination without addition of plant extract. That the lower the indicated concentration of LDL50, the higher the antioxidative capacity of the investigated Olea europaea extract. The reference substances used were the antioxidants Lipochroman-6, Trolox, BHT, tocopherol and methyl catechol.

Determination of the antioxidant potential against superoxides (chemiluminescence, ACW)

The antioxidant potential with respect to superoxides is determined with the aid of chemiluminescence methods and measured with a measuring instrument from Jenanalytics.

Principle:

The strength of the chemiluminescence obtained in an untreated aqueous sample its maximum V _max after a fixed time t _min = t _non h _a n _de i _t - The addition of anti-oxidants so that luminol be intercepted by UV formed ROS, only the energy in chemiluminescence if the antioxidant potential of the test substance is exhausted. V _max is reached at a later time t _Probβ . To compare the individual antioxidants with each other, the concentration c (μg / ml) is determined which is needed to reach t _sample = 3 xt _min . The lower this concentration, the better the antioxidant potential of the substance.

Table 1: Determination of the antioxidant potential, LDL50 [μg / ml] and ACW [ng / ml]

nl: not soluble in this test system

The extract from Olea europaea has antioxidant properties against the formation of hydroxy radicals. It has slightly better properties compared to superoxides than the water-soluble standard substance vitamin C (Table 1)

Example 2:

collagen synthesis

Execution:

To prepare the dermis model, fibroblasts were first sown on a matrix consisting of collagen, chitosan and glucosaminoglucan. After a 28-day cultivation period of the

Fibroblasts were started with systemic treatment.

The treatment was carried out by adding the test substances or the positive control to the medium. Treatment was done every two days, i. three times within 6 days.

In addition, untreated cultures were carried.

methods:

collagen synthesis

The measuring method is based on the particularly high content of proline and hydroxyproline in

Collagen molecules and on the incorporation of radioactive 3H-proline during the

Collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin model. For the last 24 hours of culture, 5 μCi / ml of 3H-proline was added. At the end of the test, this was present in the matrix Collagen specifically degraded collagen, precipitated the remaining protein and the incorporated activity in the supernatant (collagen) and in the precipitate (non-collagen proteins) measured. By determining the incorporated radioactivity in the collagen compared to the non-collagenous proteins, the percentage of collagen in the total protein can be determined.

Collagen [%] = DPM collagen

DPM collagen + 5.4 X DPM non-collagen proteins

The extract from Olea europaea increased the collagen synthesis of the fibroblasts dose-dependent compared to the untreated control to a maximum of 148%. By comparison, the positive control vitamin C at a concentration of 44 μg / ml induced collagen synthesis to 144%. The extract from Olea europaea thus shows a comparable biological effect. (Table 2)

Table 2: Influence of the test substances on the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts [% (sd)]

Example 3

Determination of cytotoxicity

To check the extent to which the cell cultures were affected by possible cytotoxic effects of the test substances, the vitality of the was tested by a dye test, the MTT test.

The MTT test provides information about cell proliferation and cytotoxicity. In the test, the metabolic activity of living cells is determined. The exact performance of the assay is described in J. Immunol. Methods 65, 55, 1983 (T. Mosmann), which is incorporated herein by reference. The tetrazolium salt 3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MIT) is enzymatically reduced in living cells and converted to a blue, water-insoluble formazan salt. This formazan salt is extracted and quantified photometrically. The color intensity of the formazan salt solution can be correlated with the number of living cells or with the vitality of a tissue in the examined sample. Table 3: Vitality of cell cultures as a function of different concentrations of Olea europaea extract (% [standard deviation])

From the available data, an MTT50 value of about 2900 μg / ml can be determined. This value shows a very low cytotoxicity of the Olea europaea extract (Table 3).

Example 4:

Detection of stimulation of ATP synthesis in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and dermal papilla cells by an extract according to the invention. The extract according to the invention was tested in vitro on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and on dermal papilla cells for its stimulating effect on intracellular ATP synthesis.

ATP detection method

The intracellular ATP content is measured by bioluminometric measurements with a luciferase assay. For this, the cell cultures are disrupted by means of an extraction buffer and the cell lysate is treated with a commercially available luciferase reagent. The resulting bioluminescent light is detected by means of a luminescence meter and is directly proportional to the amount of ATP present in the lysate.

Experimental Procedure

Preparation of the extract solutions for testing on the model

The tests were carried out with dilute solutions of various extracts. To prepare the test solutions, the extracts were diluted with the nutrient medium solution used for culturing the keratinocytes or dermal papilla cells (KGM nutrient medium from Cell Systems or Chang D Medium from Irvine Scientific) and homogenized. The test solutions contained the extracts in different concentrations.

Preparation of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and incubation with the extract solutions

The experiments were carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK P 135 from Cell Systems). These are primary keratinocytes. After culturing the cells in the KGM culture medium, the cells were seeded in 96-well microtiter plates with a density of approximately 2000 cells per well. After three days, the culture medium was exchanged for the various extract-containing test solutions.

In each series of experiments, untreated, ie extract-free, incubated cell cultures were carried and analyzed. The incubation of the primary keratinocytes with the individual test solutions was then carried out for 6 hours in a CO 2 incubator at a temperature of 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO 2. At the end of each incubation period, the ATP content of the cells was analyzed (see below). After 24 hours of incubation, the vitality (cell proliferation / metabolism) of the cultures was determined by means of the MTT test.

Carrying out ATP measurements on keratinocytes

After each incubation period, the control or test solutions were removed from the keratinocytes by gentle washing. Subsequently, 60 μl of a lysis buffer were pipetted into each well. The microtiter plates were then shaken for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lysis buffer consisted of an aqueous solution of 10 mM TRIS (2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol), 1 mM EDTA, 100 mM NaCl, 5 mM M9C12 and 1% by weight Nonidet P 40 ( ethoxylated fatty alcohol, Shell).

The ATP determinations were made using the ATPLite ™ -m assay (Packard). The test principle of this assay is based on the fact that Photinus pyralis luciferase catalyzes a reaction in which D-luciferin is converted to oxyluciferin in the presence of ATP. In this reaction, green light is emitted which can be measured with a luminometer. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.

To determine the ATP content in keratinocytes, 50 μl of the cell lysate were pipetted into a black luminometer microtiter plate, admixed with 50 μl luciferase reagent from the ATPLite ™ -m assay kit and, after a further 10 min incubation in the dark, inserted into the luminometer, which detects the occurring bioluminescence at room temperature. The calibration of the luminometer was carried out by bioluminescence measurements with ATP. The standard solutions were in the concentration range from 1, 6 - 10-9 to 1, 0 - 10 - 6 mol ATP / I. The equation of the calibration line was used to calculate the ATP concentration in the cell lysates.

Preparation of normal human dermal papilla cells, incubation with extract solutions and ATP measurement

To determine the ATP activity in dermal papilla cells, they are precultured in a suitable manner to obtain their specific properties, as described in DE10162814, and transferred to a 48-well cell culture dish. The olive leaf extract was treated for 6 hours against an untreated control. Subsequently, the cells were lysed for 5 min on a shaker with in each case 100 μl / well of a lysis buffer contained in the test kit. The cells were then incubated for a further 5 min with in each case 100 .mu.l / well with the supplied substrate solution on the shaker and then transferred to the reaction mixture in a black microtiter plate. After an incubation time of 10 min in the dark, the luminescence was measured.

The extract from Olea europaea increased the ATP production of keratinocytes compared to the untreated control by a maximum of 42%. (Table 4)

The extract from Olea europaea increased the ATP production of the dermal papilla cells compared to the untreated control by a maximum of 37%. (Table 5)

Table 4: Influence of the test substances on the ATP production of keratinocytes in% (standard deviation)

Table 5: Influence of the test substances on the ATP production of dermal papilla cells in% (standard deviation)

Example 5:

Increase in keratin synthesis

The hair structure is essentially dependent on the composition of specific hair-specific structural proteins, the hair keratins. By influencing the composition of these specific proteins, it is possible to influence the hair structure on a biological level.

The expression of various hair keratins in the organotypic model can be examined by means of a quantitative real-time PCR method. To carry out the PCR, the RNA is first isolated from the organotypic models using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair keratins and which serves to amplify the desired gene segments, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significant.

To investigate keratin synthesis, organotypic models with different concentrations of leaf extract from Olea europea were systemically treated for 6 h and 24 h. The leaf extract from Olea europea increased the gene expression of hair keratins hHa3-l and hHa4 in the organotypic model compared to the untreated control after 24 hours of application by a maximum of 5.6. (Table 6)

Table 6: Influence of Olea europea on hair keratin synthesis

6 h 24 hHa3-l hHa4 HHa3-l HHa4 untreated 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0 1, 0

Olea 0.005% -1, 6 -1, 5 5.6 3.9

Olea 0.01% 2.1 2.2 2.3 3.3

Formulation Examples: Example 6:

hair conditioner

Olea extract 2.0

Eumulgin® B2 ¹ 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart® A-CA ² 2.0

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.5

Phenonip® ³ 0.8

Water ad 100 PH = 7.0

¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)

² trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 25% active in water, INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride)

³ -hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid-butyl ester-phenoxyethanol mixture (about 28% active ingredient, INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA)

Example 7:

hair conditioner

Olea extract 1, 0

Eumulgin® B2 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart®L 80 ⁵ 2.0

Gluadin WQ 0.5

Gluadin WLM 0.2

Pantolactone 1, 0

Subtilisin or papain 1, 0

Citric acid 0.4

Phenonip® 0.8

Water ad 100 PH - 7.0 ⁵ bis (Cocoylethyl) -hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium methosulfate (about 76% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (HENKEL)

Example 8:

hair conditioner

Olea extract 2.0

Isopropyl myristate 0.50

Paraffin Liquidum 0.50

Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5

Eumulgin B 2 * 0.40

Citric acid 0.20

Propylparaben 0.20

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.30

Methylparaben 0.20

Dehyquart F 75 2.0 * Eumulgin B 2 = Ceteareth-20

Example 9:

Hair Conditioner (rinse off)

Olea extract 4.0

Dehyquart® F75 ⁷ 4.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 1, 5

Dehyquart® A-CA 4.0

Salcare®SC 96 0.5

Gluadin WQ 1, 0

Gluadin WLM 1, 0

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.2

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip® 0.8

Water ad 100

PH = 7.0

⁷ fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester mixture (INCI name:

Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol) (HENKEL) Example 10:

Hair Conditioner (rinse off)

Olea extract, 2.0

Dehyquart® L80 4.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 6.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 2.0

RewoquatOW 75 ⁹ 2.0

Sepigel®305 0.5

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.5

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip® 0.8

Water ad 100

PH = 7.0

⁹ l-methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amido ethyl imidazolinium methosulfate (about 75%)

Active ingredient in propylene glycol; INCI name: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol) (WITCO)

Example 1 1:

Hair cure (remaining on the hair)

Olea extract 3.0

Dehyquart® F75 0.3

Salcare®SC 96 5.0

Dow Corning®200 Fluid, 5 cSt. ¹⁰ 1, 5

Gafquat®755N ¹¹ 1, 5

Biodocarb® ¹² 0.8

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.5

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100 PH = 7.0

10

Polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone) (DOW CORNING) ¹¹ dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, with diethylsi active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF) ¹² 3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GREENING)

Example 12:

Hair cure (remaining on the hair)

Olea extract 3.0

Sepigel®305 5.0

Dow Corning®Q2-5220 5 cSt. ¹³ 1, 5

Genamin®DSAC ¹⁴ 0.3

Phenonip® 0.8

Gluadin WQ 0.5

Gluadin WLM 0.8

Pantolactone 1, 0

Subtilisin or papain 0.8

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100 PH = 7.0

¹³ Silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol) (DOW CORNING)

¹⁴ Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

Example 13:

conditioner

Olea extract 2.0

Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00

Propylparaben 0.20

Stearamidopropyldimethylamines 1, 50

Dehyquart F 75 ^* 3 1, 50

Paraffin Liquidum 1, 00

Quaternium-87 in propylene glycol 1, 50

Isopropyl myristate 2.00

Cutina GMS ^* 1, 00

Methylparaben 0.20

Water ad 100

Citric acid 0.45

Dehyquart A CA * 2 5.00

Rheocare CTH (E) 0.50

Polymer JR 400 0.20 Pantolactone 0.20

Nicotinic acid amide 0.10

Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.40

D-panthenol 75% 0.20

Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 1, 50

Perfume 0.20 * 1 Cutina GMS = Glyceryl Monostearate * 2 Dehyquart A CA = Cetrimonium Chloride * 3 Dehyquart F 75 = Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate

Example 14:

Shampoo:

Olea extract 1, 5

LAURETHSULFATE 25% 40

CITRIC ACID 0.1

SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5

DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE 6.0

SALICYLIC ACID 0.1

HYDROTRITICUM WQ 1, 0

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.2

CETIOL HE 0.5

PERFUME 0,4

NACL 0.5

WATER AD 100

Example 15:

Shampoo:

Olea extract 2.0

LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 25,0

CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.3

TIMIRON 0,5

SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5

PANTHENOL 75 L 0.2

EUPERLAN PK 3000 8.0

PLANTACARE 818 UP 2.0

UVINUL MS40 1, 0

SALICYL ACID 0.2

AJIDEW NL-50 2.0

CUTINA HR GROUNDED 0.5

CETIOL HE 1, 0

CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.03

JAGUAR EXCEL 0,3

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.5

SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3

WATER ad 100

Example 16:

Shampoo:

Olea extract 2.0

LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE DILUTION) 50

CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0,4

ARLYPON F 0.5

ANTIL171 0.3

WHEAT PROTEIN HYDROLYZATE CATIONISED 1, 5

SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5

EUPERLAN PK 3000 6.0

COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 45% 5.0

SALICYL ACID 0.2

SILSOFT A-858 0.3

Gluadin WQ 1, 0

Gluadin WLM 1, 0

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.2

CUTINA HR 0.2

CETIOL HE 1, 0

WATER ad 100

Example 17:

Shampoo:

Olea extract 2.0

Preferences. Laurethsulf.25% alk.Ver. 40,00

Citric acid 0.15

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7,00

Na benzoate 0.50

Salicylic acid 0.20

Perfume 0.15

Sodium chloride 1, 50

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

Polymer JR 400 0.30 Example 18:

Haarstylinqqel:

Olea extract 2.5

SALTED WATER ad 100

SYNTHALES K 0,6

NEUTROL TE 0,5

GLYCERIN DAB 9, 86.5 8,00

ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLED 96 VOL% FLS 30,00

Gluadin WQ 0.5

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 1, 0

Subtilisin or papain 0.2

POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL 2.00

PVP / VA W-635 6,50

CREMOPHOR RH 40 1, 00

PERFUME 0,50 PH = 7,0

Example 19:

Hairspray:

Olea extract 2.0

AMPHOMER 3.00

LUVISKOL VA 37 16,00

AMP AMINO METHYL PROPANOL 100 0.60

ISOPROPYLMYRISTATE 0.12

Gluadin WQ 0.5

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.2

Subtilisin or papain 1, 0

PERFUME 0,20

SALTED WATER ad 100

ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% FLS 67,50 PH = 7,0 Example 20:

Hair Tonic:

Olea extract 2.0

SALTED WATER ad 100

PANTHENOL 75 0.1

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.5

CARBOPOL 0.1

NEUTROL TE 0.10

ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% 30.0

PH = 7.0

Example 21:

Hair Tonic:

Olea extract 2.0

D-panthenol 75% 0.20

Allantoin 0.10

Perfume 0.25

Water, demineralized ad 10C

Cremophor A25 * 0.200Oi

Ethanol 96% 35.00

^* Cremophor A25 ^* = Ceteareth-25

Example 22:

Example formulation hair tonic:

Recipe Verum:

30% ethanol (cosmetic)

2% liposomes PC (Lipoid SL80, Supplier Lipoid)

2% Olea extract (Supplier: Loncha)

66% water Example formulation hair shampoo:

Olea extract 2.0

LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 25,0

CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.3

TIMIRON 0,5

SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5

PANTHENOL 75 L 0.2

EUPERLAN PK 3000 8.0

PLANTACARE 818 UP 2.0

UVINUL MS40 1, 0

SALICYL ACID 0.2

AJIDEW NL-50 2.0

CUTINA HR GROUNDED 0.5

CETIOL HE 1, 0

CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.03

JAGUAR EXCEL 0,3

Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Pantolactone 0.5

Subtilisin or papain 0.5

SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3

WATER ad 100

Example 23:

a) Oil-in-water emulsions

a1.

a2.

a3.

a4

a5.

a6.

a7.

b) water-in-oil emulsions

b1.

c) cleaning preparations

d.

c2.

d. Water-in-silicone emulsions

d1.

All figures are in weight percent (w%).

Information on the substances used in the examples:

Gluadin WQ

Cognis Germany GmbH,

AQUA (WATER), LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN,

ETHYLPARABLES, METHYLPARABES

Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ, (3- (dodecyldimethylammonio) -2-hydroxypropyl), chlorides about 30-35% content

Gluadin WLM

Cognis Germany GmbH

Wheat protein hydrolyzate in H2O

INCI declaration [INCI] HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN

Salary about 20-24% Salcare SC 96

Ciba

INCI declaration [INCI] POLYQUATERNIUM-37, PROPYLENE GLYCOL

Dicaprylate / dicaprate,

Salary about 50%

Cetiol HE

Cognis Germany GmbH

Coconut monoglyceride ethoxylated (7 EO)

INCI declaration [INCI] PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

Sepigel 305

Seppic (Interorgana)

INCI declaration [INCI] POLYACRYLAMIDE, C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, LAURETH-7

Salary about 45-50%

Euperlan PK 3000

Cognis Germany GmbH

INCI declaration [INCI] GLYCOL DISTEARATE, GLYCERINE, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL

BETAINE

Plantacare 818 UP

Cognis Germany GmbH

C8-16 alkylpolyglucoside

* NLP

COCO-GLUCOSIDE, AQUA (WATER)

Aiidew NL 50

Ajinomoto

Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid sodium salt

Na-PCA

SODIUM PCA

Uvinul MS 40

BASF

Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid * 2-BENZOPHENONE-4 Arlypon F

Cognis Germany GmbH

Lauromacrogol JP 12 (Pharmacopoeia of Japan)

^* NLP

C12-14 fatty alcohols ethoxylated (2.5 EO)

LAURETH-2

Antil 171

Goldschmidt (Degussa)

Polyol fatty acid esters

PEG-18 GLYCERYL OLEATE / COCOATE

Svnthalen K Synthalen KD (old) 3V Sigma polyacrylic acid CARBOMER

Cremophor RH 40

BASF

Perfume C 041

Castor oil, hardened, ethoxylated (45 EO)

PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR 0IL

Neutrol TE

BASF

Tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine ^* N, N, N ¹ , N ', - edetol

TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE

Claims

claims

1. A hair or skin treatment composition containing at least one extract of plants belonging to the family Oleaceae.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae are selected from plants of the genera Abeliophyllum, Chionanthus, Comoranthus, Dimetra, Fontanesia, Forestiera, Forsythia, Fraxinus, Haenianthus, Hesperelaea, Jasminum, Ligustrum , Menodora, Myxopyrum, Nestegis, Noronhia, Noteiaea, Nyctanthes, Olea, Osmanthus, Phillyrea, Picconia, Priogymnanthus, Schrebera and Syringa, especially among plants of the genus Olea.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, are selected from plants of the species or subspecies Abeliophyllum distichum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. eburneum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. lilacinum, Chionanthus filiformis, Chionanthus ramiflorus, Chionanthus retusus, Chionanthus virginicus, Comoranthus madagascariensis, Comoranthus minor, Dimetra craibiana, Fontanesia phillyreoides, Fontanesia phillyreoides subsp. fortunei, forestiera acuminata, forestiera eggersiana, forestiera neo-mexicana, forestiera segregata, forestiera segregata var. pinetorum, forsythia europaea, forsythia giraldiana, forsythia japonica, forsythia japonica var. saxatilis, forsythia nakaii, forsythia ovata, forsythia suspensa, forsythia viridissima, forsythia koridis var. koreana, forsythia x intermedia, forsythia sp. Fraxinus americana, Fraxinus angustifolia, Fraxinus anomala, Fraxinus biltmoreana, Fraxinus chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis var. Rhynchophylla, Fraxinus cuspidata, Fraxinus cuspidata var. Macropetala, Fraxinus dipetala, Fraxinus excelsior, Fraxinus excelsior var. Diversifolia, Fraxinus greggii, Fraxinus latifolia Fraxinus longicuspis, Fraxinus mandshurica, Fraxinus nigra, Fraxinus ornus, Fraxinus oxyphylla, Fraxinus pallisae, Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. Aucubaefolia, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. Subintegerrima, Fraxinus platypoda, Fraxinus quadrangulata, Fraxinus rynchophylla, Fraxinus syriaca, Fraxinus texensis, Fraxinus diminous, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides var. dimorpha, Haenianthus incrassatus, Haenianthus salicifolius, Haenianthus salicifolius var. obovatus, Hesperelaea palmeri, Jasminum abyssinicum, Jasminum attenuatum, Jasminum elegans, Jasminum floribundum, Jasminum fluminense, Jasminum frut icans, Jasminum humile, Jasminum lanceolarium, Jasminum leratii, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum multiflorum, Jasminum nervosum, Jasminum nitidum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum odoratissimum, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum polyanthum, Jasminum sinense, Jasminum suavissimum, Ligustrum acutissimum, Ligustrum compactum, Ligustrum ibota, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum massalongianum, Ligustrum obtusifolium, Ligustrum ovalifolium, Ligustrum sempervirens, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum vulgaris, Menodora africana, Menodora integrifolia, Menodora scabra, Myxopyrum nervosum, Myxopyrum smilacifolium, Myxopyrum smilacifolium var. confertum, Nestegis apetala, Nestegis cunninghamii, Nestegis lanceolata, Nestegis sandwicensis, Noronhia emarginata, Noteiaea longifolia, Noteiaea microcarpa, Noteiaea punctata, Nyctanthes aculeata, Nyctanthes arbortristis, Olea brachiata, Olea capensis, Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata, Osmanthus americanus, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus heterophyllus, Osmanthus insularis, Osmanthus rigidus, Osmanthus sp. Reeves 12, Phillyrea angustifolia, Phillyrea latifolia, Phillyrea media, Picconia excelsa, Priogymnanthus apertus, Priogymnanthus hasslerianus, Schrebera alata, Schrebera mazoensis, Syringa amurensis, Syringa emodi, Syringa julianae, Syringa komarowii, Syringa meyeri, Syringa microphylla, Syringa microphylla x Syringa meyeri , Syringa oblata, Syringa patula, Syringa pekinensis, Syringa pinnatifolia, Syringa pubescens, Syringa reflexa, Syringa reticulata, Syringa tigerstedtii, Syringa villosa, Syringa vulgarii, Syringa wolfii and Syringa yunnanensis, especially among plants of the species or subspecies Olea brachiata, Olea capensis , Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata and especially preferred among plants of the species Olea europaea.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract from plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, is obtained from the leaves of the plants, in particular by an extraction method described in EP-B-0 730 830.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains an extract of plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, which has a high content of antioxidants, in particular to oleuropein.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the content of oleuropein in the extract extract from plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, in the range of 10 to 30% by weight, in particular 15 to 28% by weight, particularly preferably 18 to 26% by weight.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises means for promoting collagen synthesis, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and / or N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys Palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains means for changing or nuancing the color of the hair of the head.

9. Use of extracts from plants belonging to the family Oleaceae, in particular extracts as defined in any one of claims 2 to 8, for the vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, Hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion of homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma.

10. Procedure for revitalizing hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influencing keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion of homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle ; Treatment of pathological conditions of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma, characterized in that an agent according to the definitions in one of Claims 2 to 8 applies to the hair or the skin.