EP1675564A1 - Agent containing valerian - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions for cleaning surfaces, containing a valerian extract for soothing the skin of the user during application of said compositions.

Description

 "Containing Valerian"

The invention relates to compositions containing valerian and the use of these compositions for cleaning and maintaining surfaces such as glass, porcelain, wood, leather, fibers and in particular keratin fibers and skin.

Today, consumers come into contact with means for cleaning and maintaining a wide variety of surfaces in a variety of ways, for example when wiping the floor, doing dishes, washing clothes, but also during personal cleaning, showering or washing hair. All of these agents contain surfactants or emulsifiers as essential ingredients that support cleaning performance. The repeated and frequent exposure, in particular of the skin surface of the user of such agents, leads to irritation symptoms such as a burning or itching or tension states of the skin as well as to skin roughness and skin dryness.

Cosmetics for the care and maintenance of the natural functions of skin and hair are becoming increasingly important. Among other things, the changed consumer habits and fashion trends contribute to this. For example, the intensive use of tanning salons has a lasting impact on the structure of skin and hair by UV light. These impairments are shown on the skin and hair, for example, by a loss of elasticity.

In addition, extensive physical activity during leisure leads to frequent intensive cleaning of the skin and hair. As a result, the protective film made of sebum, which is continuously produced by the numerous sebaceous glands, or the sebum production of the sebum glands themselves can be severely impaired. As a result, oily skin and hair appear. The already described tension states on the skin, such as burning and itching, should also be mentioned here. Fashion trends with current colors for "make-up", lipsticks for coloring the lips and mascara as well as hair coloring and waving agents all contribute to impairing the natural condition of skin and hair when the skin is stressed and hair is stressed. It is therefore not surprising if the proportion of consumers with sensitive, less elastic, brittle and irritated skin and hair that is impaired in combability, shine, elasticity, brittleness and maximum tensile strength increases sharply.

There has been no shortage of attempts to remedy these abuses. Among other things, Emulsions for skin care are further optimized in terms of their irritant potential by selecting suitable emulsifiers. Mild surfactants are used to clean the skin and hair so as not to put additional strain on the skin and hair. Refatting substances are used to avoid stimulating sebum production during cleaning. UV protection agents and vitamins such as vitamin E are said to reduce the adverse effects of UV light. Protein hydrolyzates are used to balance the internal structure of the skin and hair. With plant and algae extracts, for example, the moisture balance of skin and hair can be influenced.

Furthermore, cosmetic active ingredients are increasingly used in agents for cleaning and maintaining surfaces such as glass, porcelain, leather, textiles, floors of all kinds in the household and in trade, in order not to put additional strain on the skin of the user of such products. Hand dishwashing detergents with nourishing additives such as proteins or lipid-replenishing substances are available on the market.

However, there is still a need for agents which contain surfactants or emulsifiers which are distinguished by a reduction in the undesirable effects on the skin and hair. It has now been found that the use of valerian extracts as an active ingredient in agents for cleaning and maintaining surfaces shows surprisingly good properties. By using valerian, the undesirable effects such as burning or itching of the skin, feelings of tension etc. occur Users of these funds no longer. Furthermore, it has been found that the use of valerian in these agents completely eliminates the need for preservatives or at least the amount of preservatives can be reduced.

A first object of the invention is therefore agents for the care and cleaning of surfaces containing conventional constituents, in particular surfactants and emulsifiers, characterized in that valerian extract is contained as the active ingredient.

Valerian is a plant that has been known and cultivated since ancient times. Valerian is used in numerous preparations in homeopathy and pharmacy. The numerous known effects of valerian include both sedating and activating effects. Valerian also shows cell toxic properties. Another very well-known property is the bitter taste. Valerian ingredients can be used as bitter substances and are used to stimulate the appetite. Furthermore, the taste of medicines and foods can be modified with valerian.

As examples of the pharmaceutical use of valerian, reference is made to US 20030096865 AI. An extraction method for producing a valerian extract from the root of the valerian can be found, for example, in US 20030017110 AI. The use of valerian as a flavoring is described for example in EP 1077034 AI.

However, none of the abovementioned documents contain the slightest reference to the present invention.

Valerian extracts are well-known herbal extracts. These extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves and / or roots and / or stems or stems of the plant. In principle, all methods known to those skilled in the extraction field can be used for the production. In particular, valerian can be extracted with solvents, in particular water, steam and alcohols, but also particularly gently with supercritical CO ₂ or other supercritical fluids. Mixtures of water, steam and alcohols can also be used as extractants for the production of the valerian extract. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water. Valerian extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The present invention also encompasses the teaching that, although not necessarily preferred, the known valerian ingredients can be used alone or in mixtures instead of the valerian extract. In the event that ingredients of the valerian extract are used, these are preferably iridoids, in particular valtrate and valepotriate, sesquiterpenes such as in particular valeranone, terpene alkaloids such as, for example, actinidine, and valerian oil and tannins. The sole use of valeric acid is not preferred according to the invention. If valeric acid is used in accordance with the teaching of the present invention, then at least one further essential constituent of the valerian is also used. According to the invention, valerian extract is also understood to be valerian oil obtained from the valerian plant in other ways.

According to the invention, the valerian extract can be used both in pure and in dilute form. If it is used in dilute form, it usually contains about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in its extraction.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use both the valerian extract and additionally at least one further ingredient of the valerian extract in the agents according to the invention. The valerian extract is used in the agents in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 3% by weight.

Another mandatory component of the present invention are surfactants and / or emulsifiers. The term surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in “H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CB2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- linear alpha olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE -A-3725 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-3723 354, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (VI),

O R29 (θCH2CH ₂ ) _n -O - P - OR30 (VI) OX in the R preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ³⁰ for hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) “R ²⁹ or X , n stands for numbers from 1 to 10 and X stands for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³¹ R ³² R ³³ R ³⁴ , with R ³¹ to R ³⁴ independently of one another representing a Ci to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (VII) R ³⁵ CO (AlkO) "SO ₃ M (VII) in the R ³⁵ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 C atoms, alk represents CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n represents numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M represents a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,

- Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (VIII), CH2θ (CH2CH2θ) _χ - COR36 CHO (CH ₂ CH2θ) yH (VIII) CH2θ (CH2CH2θ) _z - SO3X in R ³ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms , x, y and z in total stand for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulated with sulfuric acid trioxide. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VIII) are preferably used in which R CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates are described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE-Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990).

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(_)

- or -SO ₃ "group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium- glycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is that among the L CI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine known fatty acid amide derivative.

Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-

Alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylammopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide end-capped with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ³⁷ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ³⁸⁾ _w OR ^39, (IX) in which R ³⁷ CO represents a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{38 represents} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{39 represents} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, fatty acid-N-alkylglucamides,

Alkyl polygycosides according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals are R Mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective processing of these compounds.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

essentially from C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups,

essentially from C ₁₂ and C ₁ alkyl groups,

- essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or

- essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or

- consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as the sugar building block Z. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8 are very particularly preferred.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used in accordance with the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

The alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These connections are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Examples of such alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When so-called "oxo alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. In contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

These surfactants are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a preferred embodiment, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof can be preferred.

Cationic surfactants of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines can also be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammomum chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. cetyl trimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltri- methyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammom ^'monium chloride and Tricetylmethyl- ammonium chloride, as well as under the FNCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 imidazolium compounds known. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ^® , Dehyquart ^® and Armocare ^® . The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

The alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The cationic surfactants are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.

The compulsory surfactant and / or emulsifier components according to the invention also include the emulsifiers defined as follows: emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase as well as the proportion of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example: addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular with glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with methylglucoside Fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred, mixtures of alkyl - (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil, partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms, sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from mushrooms and yeasts. Phospholipids. These are understood above all to mean the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soybeans). Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH), linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention can preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, in the Römpp Lexicon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz). (1997), page 1764, contain the definitions listed. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention. Among the types of emulsifiers mentioned, the emulsifiers which contain no ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the molecule can be very particularly preferred.

In a preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, the effect can be increased further using polymers. Polymers are understood to mean both natural and synthetic polymers which can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" means those polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups Polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (IS),

R 18

- [CH ₂ -C-] "X ^" (HJ) I CO-O- CH ^ _m -NVR ^ R ²¹

in which R = -H or -CH ₃ , R, R and R are independently selected from C _1- alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic Anion and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (DI) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: - R 1 R stands for a methyl group - R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ²¹ stand for methyl groups - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the L CI-

Designation Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer content, other components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available. Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (JS) as non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C _1-4 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C _1-4 alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers can also be crosslinked. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, - canonized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names cos media ^® guar and Jaguar ^®, - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80), - polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic ure. The products commercially available under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammomum chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are available under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers of the calculations under the designations Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. Likewise usable according to the invention are the copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, such as those available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are.

Other cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^®. , Hydagen® ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially CMF. chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available. Their preparation is, for example, in DE 44 40 625 AI and described in DE 1 95 03 465 AI. Chitosans which are particularly suitable have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 '10 ⁵ to 5 "10 ⁶ (g / mol).

To prepare preparations according to the invention, the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids. Mineral acids such as e.g. Hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid as well as organic acids, e.g. low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids are suitable. Higher molecular weight alkylsulfonic acids or alkylsulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can also be used, provided that they have the required physiological tolerance. Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt form are e.g. Acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Glycolic acid or lactic acid is used.

The anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be present in whole or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

Particularly preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, for example, under the name Rheothik ^®! 1-80 is commercially available. Within this embodiment, it may be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7), has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.

Also, as a compound with isohexadecane and sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 Polysorbate-80 sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers have proven effective as in the present invention particularly.

Also preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially. Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. A maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially available under the name Stabileze ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as a component to increase the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule Contain ^" - or -SO ₃ ^" groups, and summarize those polymers which contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic and represents their simple esters.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2 104 091, European Patent Application 47 714, European Patent Application 217 274, European Patent Application 283 817 and German Patent Application 28 17 369.

Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another

(a) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (IV),

R ²² -CH = CR ²³ -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ²⁴ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ A ^w (TV) in which R ²² and R ²³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ independently of one another represent alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^ is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (V),

R ²⁷ -CH = CR ²⁸ -COOH (V) in which R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

According to the invention, these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers, reference is expressly made to the content of German laid-open specification 39 29 973. Polymers in which monomers of type (a) are used, in which R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ^{26 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(_) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate, Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.

In a third variant, the agents according to the invention can also contain nonionic polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers include: vinyl pyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).

- Shellac

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF). Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 Bl.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.

According to the invention, the term polymer is also understood to mean special preparations of polymers such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is known, for example, from EP 466 986 B1. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 μm are particularly suitable. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the Trademark Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) commercially. Other polymer powders, e.g. based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are available with a particle size of 2 - 10 μm (90%) and a specific surface area of approx. 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris) available. Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or also silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powder.

The polymers are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the effect can be further increased by using protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).

According to the invention, protein hydrolyzates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana), Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Kerasol ^® (Croda) sold.

According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g. B. soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and Wheat protein. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). The silk proteins sericin and fibroin and their derivatives can be very particularly preferred.

Although the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, which have otherwise been obtained, can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae , or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. The protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is frequently carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammomumhalogeniden. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. As typical Examples of the inventive cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are under the INCI - ^th names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington , DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HC1, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxy propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzedoxymedylated Hydrolyzated Hydrolyzed Silicon Protein , Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protem / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedoyroxy Hydroxy Hydroxy Hydroxy Hydroxy Hydroxy Hydroxy, Hydroxy , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimo nium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen Hydragenized, Quagen Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. The plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.

The agents used according to the invention contain the protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the active ingredient according to the invention can be further optimized by means of fatty substances. Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids. Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, galeoacheneic acid, elenachearic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred. The amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.

Saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ carbon atoms can be used as fatty alcohols. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list is intended to be exemplary and not limiting. The fatty alcohols, however, derive from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also suitable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , for example Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® , for example Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^® , for example Lorol ^® C8, Lorol ^® C14, Lorol ^® C18, Lorol ^® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^® , Crodacol ^® , e.g. Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^® , Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or to buy Isocarb ^® 24. Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as those commercially available under the names Corona ^® , White Swan ^® , Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® , can also be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight. Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walnut, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n -Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid constituents used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, arenachic acid, araoleic acid, araoleic acid, araoleic acid, araelostic acid, elaostelic acid, elaoleic acid, elaostic acid, elaostic acid Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of that Fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol - nyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, olerlerucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl oleates (Cetiol ^® ), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 -ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glyceryl carbonate or dicaprylic carbonate Cetiol ^® CC),

- Mono, - di- and tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerin, such as Monomuls ^® 90-018, Monomuls ^® 90-L12 or Cutina ^® MD.

The amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1

- 20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 - 15% by weight based on the total agent. The total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 6-45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has been shown that the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be increased if it is combined with hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other generally suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The amount of the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the composition, preferably 0.1-10% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.

The combination of the active ingredient with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives has also proven to be advantageous.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. According to the invention, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include

• Vitamin B _\ (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

• Vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

• Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol) and its precursor pantolactone. Within this group, panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, cationically derivatized panthenols and pantolactone. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.

• Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. The compound (3aS, 4S, 6ai?) - 2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-rf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid is designated as vitamin H, but for which the trivial name biotin has now become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Finally, the effect of the active ingredient can also be increased by the combined use with plant extracts.

These extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guide to the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

According to the invention, the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat , Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, pickled hake, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred. The extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, are particularly preferred. Rosemary, birch, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, harrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.

Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention.

It has furthermore been found that the action of the active ingredient according to the invention can be further increased in the compositions according to the invention in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups. Examples of such amino compounds are ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these amines can also be in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids are used, such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are used together with the active ingredient according to the invention in ratios of 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3 and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.

In addition to the active ingredient which is absolutely necessary according to the invention and the further preferred components mentioned above, these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example:

- Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and layered silicates such as. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn soaps,

- structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

- perfume oils,

- dimethyl isosorbide,

- cyclodextrins,

Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,

active ingredients that improve fiber structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,

quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolime ^* um methosulfate,

- defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for coloring the agent,

- anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol, Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,

- other substances for adjusting the pH, such as, for example, α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids,

- active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

- cholesterol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

- ceramides. Ceramides are understood to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,

- pigments,

- Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cytamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

- antioxidants,

- deoxy sugar,

- plant glycosides,

- Polysaccharides such as fucose or rhamnose.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. B. the monograph by Kh. Schrader, basics and recipes of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

For the preparation of these preparations are, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the Teaching of phase inversion, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, single or multi-phase shake mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. These are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous alcohol basis. Lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used as the alcoholic component. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the alcohol / water mixture, can be preferred bases according to the invention. The pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, values from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH. Food acids are usually used as acids. Edible acids are those acids that are taken in as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Preparations remaining on the skin and hair have proven to be particularly effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. Remaining on the skin and hair according to the invention are understood to mean those preparations which are not rinsed off or rinsed out of the skin or from the hair again in the course of the treatment after a period of a few seconds to an hour with the aid of water or an aqueous solution , Rather, the preparations remain on the skin or hair until the next wash. According to a preferred embodiment for use on the hair, these preparations are formulated as a hair treatment or hair conditioner. The preparations according to the invention in accordance with this embodiment can be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after this exposure time has expired; however, as stated above, they are preferably left on the hair. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before using a cleaning agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as color protection for the subsequent applications.

According to further embodiments, however, the agents according to the invention can also be, for example, cleansing agents for skin and hair, such as shampoos, makeup removers, facial cleansers, nourishing agents for skin and hair, such as douches, day creams, night creams, face masks, or firming agents for the skin Act hair such as hair setting agents, foam setting agents, styling gels and hair dryer shafts, permanent shaping agents such as permanent wave and fixing agents, and in particular pretreatment agents or rinses used in the course of a permanent wave process or dyeing process.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, it can be preferred if the agents are present as a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are also understood to be so-called “PIT” emulsions. In principle, these emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present as an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion at room temperature. When these systems are warmed up, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (usually referred to as phase inversion temperature or “PIT”), which convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions when heated further. O / W emulsions are formed, which, however, also at room temperature as microemulsions with an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular with a particle diameter of about 100-300 nm, available. Details regarding these very stable, low-viscosity systems, for which the term “PIT emulsions” has become generally accepted, can be found in a large number of publications, for which the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Sei 58, 119-149 (1995).

According to the invention, those micro- or “PIT” emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of approximately 200 nm.

The microemulsions according to the invention can be prepared, for example, by first determining the phase inversion temperature of the system by heating a sample of the emulsion prepared in the customary manner and using a conductivity meter to determine the temperature at which the conductivity decreases sharply. The decrease in the specific conductivity of the O / W emulsion initially present generally decreases over a temperature range of 2 to 8 ° C from originally more than 1 mS / cm to values below 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range. After the phase inversion temperature range is thus known, the emulsion, initially produced as usual, from the oil component, nonionic emulsifier, at least parts of the water and, if appropriate, further components can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then cooled and optionally add other components as well as the remaining water. Alternatively, the microemulsion can also be produced directly at a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The microemulsion thus produced is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature.

In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient is used in agents for dyeing keratin fibers. In principle, the active ingredient according to the invention can be added directly to the colorant. The application is preferably carried out of the active ingredient on the dyed keratin fiber, but in a separate step either directly after the actual dyeing process or in separate treatments, if appropriate also days or weeks after the dyeing process.

The term dyeing process includes all processes known to the person skilled in the art, in which a dye is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a period of between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed out or left entirely on the hair. In this context, it is expressly referred to the known monographs, e.g. B. Kh. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referring to the corresponding knowledge of the expert.

As already mentioned above, it is also possible, although less preferred, to incorporate the active ingredient directly into the coloring or tinting agent within the framework of the teaching according to the invention.

The composition of the dye or tint is not subject to any principle

Limitations.

Can as a dye (intermediate)

Oxidation dye precursors of the developer and coupler type,

• natural and synthetic direct dyes and

• Precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups are used.

Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine are usually used as oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - 2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4, 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis- (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino -2 - ((diethylamino) methyl) phenol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2nd -hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) - 1, 4.7, 10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 such as. B. 4,5-diamino-l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used as oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy -4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol , 5- (2'-Hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino ) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4- diaminoρhenoxy) propane, l-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis- (2- hydroxyethylamino) -l-methylbenzene and l-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diamino benzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diamino benzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-l-methylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino -2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3.5 diamino-2,6-dimethoxy,

Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1, 2, 3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

- Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as l-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, l-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and l- (2'-hydroxyethyl ) -amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,

Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroammophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable direct dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99 , HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2 -nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3- nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-l-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Directly occurring dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten tree bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.

It is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, further components may be present in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, must be excluded.

With regard to the dyes which can be used in the hair dyeing and toning agents according to the invention, reference is also expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7 (pages 248-250; direct dyes) and chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors), published as Volume 7 of the "Dermatology" series (ed .: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, and the "European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials."", published by the European Community, available in diskette form from the Federal Association of German Industry and Commerce for Medicinal Products, Health Care Products and Personal Care Products, Mannheim. For example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically tolerable salts are used as precursors of nature-analogous dyes. Those indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups can carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group. 5,6-Dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline as well as 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Of particular note within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially that 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5 6-dihydroxyindole.

The h dolin and hidol derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for. B. the hydrochloride, sulfates and hydrobromides, are used.

When using dye precursors of the indoline or indole type, it may be preferred to use these together with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, especially α-amino carboxylic acids and ω-amino carboxylic acids. Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the α-aminocarboxylic acids. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride. Hair colorants, in particular if the coloring is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually set to slightly acidic to alkaline, ie to pH values in the range from about 5 to 11. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine as well as alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are particularly preferred in this group. The use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.

If the actual hair colors are formed as part of an oxidative process, customary oxidizing agents, such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or its adducts with urea, melamine or sodium borate, can be used. However, oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the only oxidizing agent can be preferred. It is also possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for producing oxidizing per compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of oxidizing agents present, or also enzymes which release electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) Transmit atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

The preparation of the oxidizing agent is then expediently mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately before dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the Range from 6 to 10. It is particularly preferred to use the hair dye in a weakly alkaline environment. The application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After an exposure time of about 5 to 45, in particular 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is rinsed off the hair to be dyed. Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a carrier with a high surfactant content, e.g. B. a coloring shampoo was used.

In the case of hair that is difficult to dye, the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if necessary after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, rinsing is then carried out and, if desired, re-shampooing. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors is intended to bring about better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, air oxidation is initially aimed for, the agent applied preferably having a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated postoxidation, the use of acidified peroxidisulfate solutions as the oxidizing agent can be preferred.

Furthermore, the formation of the color can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ are particularly suitable. In principle, the metal ions can be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, the formation of the coloring can be accelerated and the color shade can be influenced in a targeted manner. The active ingredient combination according to the invention can also be used in products for cleaning surfaces such as glass, porcelain, plastic, textiles, leather, lacquer or wood. The active ingredient is particularly suitable, for example, for use in manual and machine dishwashing detergents, glass cleaners, bathroom and toilet cleaners, and floor cleaners and care products.

Another object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for cleaning and maintaining surfaces.

Another object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for cleaning and care of the skin or keratin fibers.

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight.

1. Deodorant roll-on

Component Chemical name LNCI name% by weight Methocel ^® E4M Premium Hydroxypropyl Hydroxypropyl 0.8 EP (DOW) Methylcellulose Methylcellulose Water 49.2 HYDAGEN ^® HCMF Chitosan Chitosan 0.2 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merk) Glycolic acid Glycolic acid 0 , 08 water ad 100 ethanol 25.0 Herbasol extract valerian 0.5 CETIOL ^® HE (Cognis) polyol fatty acid ester PEG -7 glyceryl 3.0 cocoate

, Deodorant - pump spray component chemical name INCI declaration% by weight o ethanol 40.0 HYDAGEN ^® CAT triethyl citrate triethyl citrate 2.0 water ad 100 valerian extract (extracted with CO ₂ 3.0) vitamin E 1.0 HYDAGEN ^® DCMF chitosan chitosan 0.1 glycolic acid (Merk) Glycolic acid 0.04 pH 4.0 , After shave cream

Ingredient Chemical name L CI declaration% by weight

EMULGADE ^® SE mixture of glyceryl stearate (and) 4.0

(Cognis) partial glycerides, ceteareth-20 (and) fatty alcohols, ceteareth-12 (and) wax esters and cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated (and) cetyl palmitate fatty alcohols

LANETTE ^® O Cetylstearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0

(Cognis)

MYRITOL ^® 312 caprylic / caprylic / capric 3.0

(Cognis) Capric Acid Triglyceride Triglycerides

CETIOL ^® PGL hexyldecanol (and) 7.0

(Cognis) Hexyldecyl Laurate DC ^® 190 (Dow Dimethicone 0.5

Corning)

GLUADLN ^® AGP partial hydrolyzate from hydrolyzed wheat 0.5

(Cognis) wheat protein

Allantoin 0.1

Panthenol (50%) 0.5

Water ad 100

Valerian extract 0.5 ethanolic

CETIOL ^® PGL hexyldecanol (and) 1.0

(Cognis) Hexyldecyl Laurate

KOH, 20% Potasium Hydroxide 0.5

HYDAGEN ^® B Bisabolol 0.2

(Cognis)

Ethanol 10.0 Moisturizer with vitamin E.

Part of chemical name INCI - Declaration% by weight

EMULGADE ^® PL mixture of cetearyl glucoside 5.0

68/50 alkyl polyglycoside and (and) cetearyl alcohol cetylstearyl alcohol

LANETTE ^® E powder sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.25

(Cognis)

CUTΓNA ^® GMS Glycerin Monostearate Glyceryl Stearate 2.0

(Cognis)

MYRITOL ^® 312 caprylic / caprylic / capric 5.0

(Cognis) Capric Acid Triglyceride Triglycerides

CETIOL ^® LC (Cognis) Capryl / Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 5.0 Capric acid esters of saturated fatty alcohols C 12 - C 18

EUTANOL ^® G 16 2-hexyldecanol hexyldecanol 2.0

(Cognis) (Guerbet alcohol)

Copherol ^® F 1300 RRR (α) Tocopherol Tocopherol 1.0

(Cognis)

Wacker Siliconoil AK Dimethicone 0.5

350 (Wacker)

Valeranon 0.5

Glycerin 86% 3.0

D-panthenol USP 0.5

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, Sp.TE, 4 rpm, 150000 with Helipath Rich night care ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight

EMULGADE ^® PL 68/50 Mixture of cetearyl glucoside 3.0 alkyl polyglycoside and (Cognis) (and) cetearyl alcohol cetylstearyl alcohol

LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 CETIOL ^® J 600 (Cognis) liquid wax ester oleyl erucate 4.0 CETIOL ^® V (Cognis) oleic acid decyl ester decyl oleate 4.0

CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-Octyl Ether Dicaprylyl Ether 4.0 MYRITOL ^® 318 (Cognis) Capryl / Caprylic / Capric 3.5 Capric Acid Triglyceride Triglyceride Baysilon ^® M 350 (Bayer) Dimethicone 0.5 COPHEROL ^® F 1300 RRR- (α) -Tocoρherol Tocopherol 1.0 (Cognis) water ad 100 glycerin 86% 3.0 Carbopol ^® 981 2% carbomer 10.0 KOH 20% 0.3 LIPOCUTLN ^® (Cognis) Aqua (and) lecithin 5.0 (and) Cholesterol (and) Decetyl Phosphate

Valepotriate 0.2

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, Sp.TE, 4 rpm, with Helipath 137500

All Purpose cream

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight

DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly 12 polyglyceryl poly 12 4.5

(Cognis) hydroxystearate hydroxystearate

MYRITOL ^® 331 (Cognis) Cocoglycerides 5.0

CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0

Valerian oil 1.0

Chamomile extract 1.0

Panthenol 0.5

Zinc stearate (Bärlocher) Zinc stearate 1.0

Glycerin (86%) 5.0

MgSO ₄ . 7 H ₂ O 0.5

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4 rpm, with Helipath approx. 200000

Rich w / o cream

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight

DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly 12 polyglyceryl poly 12 3.0

(Cognis) hydroxystearate hydroxystearate

LAMEFORM ^® TGI triglycerol diisostearate polyglyceryl-3 3.0

(Cognis) diisostearates

Beeswax 8100 (Beeswax Cera Alba 3.0

Kahl & Co.)

Zincum ^® N 29 (from zinc stearate Zinc Stearate 1.0

Baerlocher)

CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 3.0

CETIOL ^® LC (Cognis) Capryl / Capric Acid Coco 6.0 from saturated Caprylate / Caprate fatty alcohols C 12 - C 18

Myritol ^® 312 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8.0 capric triglyceride

Almond Oil Almond Oil 8.0

Herbasol extract valerian 1.0

Copherol ^® F 1300 RRR () -Tocoρherol Tocopherol 1.0

(Cognis)

Glycerin 5.0

MgSO ₄ x 7H ₂ O 1.0

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4 rpm, with Helipath 150000 , Naturally toning day cream

Component Chemical name ESO - Name% by weight

EMULGADE ^® SE mixture of partial glycerides, glyceryl stearate (and) 6.0

(Cognis) fatty alcohols, wax esters Ceteareth-20 (and) and ethoxylated Ceteareth-12 (and) fatty alcohols Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

CUTLNA ^® MD mixture of mono- and glyceryl stearate 2.0

(Cognis) Diglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid

CETIOL ^® MM myristyl myristate myristyl myristate 1.0

(Cognis)

MYRITOL ^® 312 caprylic / capric caprylic / capric 5.0

(Cognis) triglycerides

CETIOL ^® SN (Cognis) ester of a branched cetearyl isononanoate 5.0 fatty acid with saturated fatty alcohols C 16 - C 18

CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0

Grape Seed Oil Grape Seed Oil 0.5

Copherol ^® 1250 RRR - (α) tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0

(Cognis)

Valerian extract (with 2.0

Water vapor extracted)

Eusolex ^® 8020 (Merck) 4 isopropyl dibenzoylmethane 1.0

Vitamin A palmitate 0.2

Titanium dioxide 1.0

Talc 1.0

Glycerin 86% 5.0

Water ad 100

KOH, 20% Potasium Hydroxide 0.3

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4

Rpm, with Helipath 287500 pH 6-7

9. Lipstick constituent Chemical name INCI name% MYRITOL ^® 318 (Cognis) Capryl / Caprylic / Capric 14.0 Capric acid triglyceride triglyceride MYRITOL ^® PC (Cognis) Propylene glycol octanoate / Propylene glycol 6.0 decanoate dicaprylate / Dicaprate EUTANOL ^® G ( Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 17.0 (Guerbet alcohol) Candelilla wax Candelilla cera 7.0 Carnauba wax Carnauba cera 5.5 Beeswax 8100 (Kahl) Cera alba 6.5 GENEROL ^® 122 N Refined Soybean Soybean (Glycine Soy) 2.5 (Cognis) Sterol MONOMULS ^® 90 L 12 Molecularly Distilled Glyceryl Laurate 3.0 (Cognis) Lauric Acid Monoglyceride DEHYMULS ^® PGPH Polyglycerol Poly- 12- Polyglyceryl-2 4.0 (Cognis) hydroxystearate Dipolyhydroxystearate Castor oil Ricinus communis 18.0 Valerian extract (from the 1.0 root) Color pigments 2.0 HYDAGEN ^® CMF Chitosan solution Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 (Cognis) COPHEROL ^® F 1300 RRR- (α) -Tocopherol Tocopherol 2.0 (Cognis)

10. Cold wave fixation, component Chemical name INCI name,% by weight DEHYTON ^® K Real betaine. Fatty acid amide cocamidopropyl 6.0 derivative with betaine structure (Cognis) betaines (approx. 32%) NUTRILAN ^® H protein partial hydrolyzate (approx. Hydrolyzed collagen 5.0 (Cognis) 36%) LAMEQUAT ^® L canonized laurimony 3.0 (Cognis) protein hydrolyzate ( 36%) hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen hydrogen peroxide 7.5 35% Keltrol T xanthan gum 15.0 (1% swelling) water ad 100 valerian oil 1.0 PH value 3.5 11. Cold wave fixation, emulsion-like Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight DEHYQUART ^® C 4046 Mixture of ester quat, cetearyl alcohol (and) 3.0 _(right fatty alcohol and dipalmitoylethyl ° non-ionic emulsifier hydroxyethylmomum methosulfate ( and) Ceteareth-20 water ad 100 TURPINAL ^® SL (Cognis) Etidronic Acid 0.3 Hydrogen Peroxide (35%) Hydrogen Peroxide 7.5 PLANTACARE ^® 2000 C 8 - C 16 - Decyl Glucoside 1,0 UP (Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside valerian extract (whole 0, 5 plant) pH value 2.7 viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVT, 23 ° C, Sp.TC, 10 rpm 3600

12. sprayable hair treatment, leave-on component chemical name INCI - name weight% MONOMULS ^® 60-35 C hydrogenated palm hydrogenated palm 1,24 (Cognis) glycerides glycerides EUMULGΓN ^® BI polyoxyethylene-12-ceteareth-12 2,76 ( Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol CETIOL ^® S (Cognis) hydrocarbon dioctylcyclohexane 9.0 CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) di-n-octyl ether dicaprylyl ether 9.0 Dow Corning DC 345 ^® , cyclomethicone 2.0 (Dow Corning) valerian oil 2.0 water ad 100 GLUADLN ^® WQ canonized laurimony 2.85 (Cognis) wheat protein hydrolyzate hydroxypropyl (approx. 31%) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PLANTACARE ^® 2000 C 8 - C 16 Decyl Glucoside 1.00 UP (Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside (approx.

Viscosity mPas <100

13. Leave-on hair treatment ingredient Chemical name INCI - Name wt.% DEHYQUART ^® F 75 mixture of esterquat distearoylethyl 0.7 (Cognis) and fatty alcohol hydroxyethylmomum methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly-12-polyglyceryl-2 1 , 0 (Cognis) hydroxystearate dipolyhydroxystearate LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 EUTANOL ^® G (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 0.2 (Guerbet alcohol) CETIOL ^® J 600 (Cognis) liquid wax ester Oleyl Erucate 0 1 PLANTACARE ^® 1200 C 12 - C 16 Lauryl Glucoside 2.5 UP (Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside (approx. 50%) valerian oil 1.0 water ad 100 GLUADIN ^® W 40 partial hydrolyzate from hydrolyzed wheat 2.0 (Cognis) wheat (approx. 40%) protein panthenol (50%) 0.7 pH value 4 viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF 23 ° C, spindle 5, 10 rpm 6800 4. Leave-on hair treatment

Component Chemical name LNCI - Name% by weight

Sepigel ^® 305 (Seppic) Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 3.0 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7

COMPERLAN ^® KD coconut fatty acid diethanol cocamides DEA 2.0

(Cognis) amide

Valerian oil 0.7

Water ad 100

PLANTACARE ^® 1200 C 12 - C 16 Lauryl Glucoside 0.5

UP (Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside (approx. 50%)

CETIOL ^® J 600 (Cognis) liquid wax ester oleyl erucate 0.5

Copherol ^® 1250 RRR () - Tocopherol 0.2

(Cognis) tocopheryl acetate GLUADIN ^® ALMOND partial hydrolyzate from Hydrolyzed Sweet 3.0 (Cognis) almonds (approx. 22%) Almond Protein GLUADIN ^® WQ cationized laurdimonium 0.8 (Cognis) wheat protein hydrolyzate hydroxypropyl (approx. 31%) hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Ethanol 10 , 0

pH 7

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 6700 5. Hair conditioner Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight DEHYQUART ^® C 4046 Mixture of esterquat, cetearyl alcohol (and) 4.0 (Cognis) fatty alcohol and dipalmitoylethyl nonionic hydroxyethylmomum emulsifier methosulfate (and) cetearetfώO CETIOL ^® SN (Cognis) ester a branched cetearyl isononanoate 1.0 fatty acid with saturated fatty alcohols C 16 - C 18 GLUADIN ^® ALMOND partial hydrolyzate from Hydrolyzed Sweet 2.1 (Cognis) almonds (approx. 22%) Almond protein valerian extract 1.5 water ad 100

PH value 3.5 viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4000

16.Hair treatment

Ingredient Chemical name LNCI name% by weight Dehyquart ^® L 80 (Cognis) mixture of esterquat dicocoylethyl 0.9 and propylene glycol (approx. Hydroxyethylmomum 75%) methosulfate (and) propylene glycol LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol 3, 5 MONOMULS ^® 60-35 C Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Hydrogenated Palm 1.0 (Cognis) Glycerides EUMULGLN ^® B 2 Polyoxyethylene-20-Ceteareth-20 0.8 (Cognis) Cetylstearyl Alcohol COSMEDIA ^® GUAR Guarhydroxypropyl-Guar Hydroxypropyl 0.3 C 261 (Cognis) trimethyl-ammonium trimonium chloride chloride valerian extract (extracted with 2.0 propylene glycol, water) water ad 100 pH 3.5

17. Hair mask constituent Chemical name INCI name% by weight DEHYQUART ^® F 75 hybrid of esterquat distearoylethyl 3.0 (Cognis) and fatty alcohol hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 CUTINA ^® GMS (Cognis) glycerol monostearate glyceryl stearate 1.0 EUMULGΓN ^® B 2 polyoxyethylene-20-ceteareth-20 1.5 (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol valerian oil 1.0 NUTRILAN ^® KERATIN partial hydrolyzate from hydrolyzed keratin 5.0 W (Cognis) keratin (approx. 20%) panthenol 0.8 aloe vera gel 2.0 water ad 100

PH value 3-4 18. Intensive hair treatment

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight DEHYQUART ^® L 80 mixture of esterquat dicocoylethyl 2.5 (Cognis) and propylene glycol (approx. Hydroxyethylmonium 75%) methosulfate (and) propylene glycol CUTLNA ^® GMS (Cognis) glycerol monostearate glyceryl stearate 0. 5 LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) Cetylstearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 HYDAGEN ^® HSP Trimethylolpropane- 0.5 (Cognis) Hydroxymethylstearate- Ether Herbasol Extract Valerian 3.0 LAMESOFT ^® PO 65 Mixture of Coco-Glucoside (and) 2.5 (Cognis ) Alkyl polyglycoside and glyceryl oleate fatty acid monoglyceride water ad 100 pH 3.5 viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4400

19. Hair tip fluid constituent Chemical name INCI name Weight% HYDAGEN ^® HCMF Chitosan powder Chitosan 0.4 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merck) Glycolic acid 0.2 Glycerin 86% 55.0 Tylose ^® H 100,000 YP 0.4 (maximum ) GLUADIN ^® R (Cognis) partial hydrolyzate from hydrolyzed rice protein 4.0 rice (approx. 27%) (and) hydrolyzed vegetable protein panthenol 50% 1.0 ethanol 10.0 water ad 100 pH 4.5

20. Leave-on hair milk

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight DEHYQUART ^® L 80 mixture of dicocoylethyl 2.0 (Cognis) finishing agent and hydroxyethylmomum propylene glycol (approx. Methosulfate (and) 75%) propylene glycol LAMESOFT ^® PO 65 mixture of coco glucoside (and ) 2.0 (Cognis) alkyl polyglycoside and glyceryl oleate fatty acid monoglyceride valerian oil 0.5 water ad 100 pH 3.5

21. Pump spray fixer

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight HYDAGEN ^® HCMF Chitosan powder Chitosan 1.0 (Cognis) glycolic acid (Fa. Merk) 0.4 Herbasol extract valerian 0.5 PLANTACARE ^® 1200 C 12 - C 16 fatty alcohol lauryl glucoside 0.2 UP (Cognis) hollycoside (approx. 50%>) GLUADLN ^® WQ Cationized Laurdimonium 1,0 (Cognis) wheat protein hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hydrolyzate wheat protein ethanol 40.0 water ad 100

PH value 4.0

22. Foam setting agent

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight HYDAGEN ^® HCMF Chitosan powder Chitosan 0.4 (Cognis) glycolic acid (Merck) glycolic acid 0.2 Herbasol extract valerian 1.0 DEHYQUART ^® A cetyltrimethylammonium cetrimonium chloride 1.0 (Cognis) - chloride (approx. 25%) GLUADIN ^® W 40 partial hydrolyzate from hydrolyzed wheat 2.0 (Cognis) wheat (approx. 40%) protein water ad 100 23. Styling wax

Ingredient Chemical name INCI - Name% CUTL A ^® MD (Cognis) mixture of mono- and glyceryl stearate 5.0 diglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid EUMULGΓN ^® BI polyoxyethylene-12-ceteareth-12 1.0 (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol CETIOL ^® V (Cognis) oleic acid decyl ester decyl oleate 5.0 paraffin oil 10.0 HYDAGEN ^® HCMF chitosan powder chitosan 0.8 (Cognis) glycolic acid (Merck) 0.4 valerian oil 1.0 vitamin E 0.5 water ad 100

24. 2-in-l shampoo constituent Chem: name INCI - name wt.% TEXAPON ^® N 70 sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12.0 (Cognis) with 2 mol EO (approx. 70%) DEHYTON ^® PK 45 fatty acid amide Derivative with cocamidopropyl 2.5 (Cognis) betaine structure (approx. 45%) PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 3.0 (Cognis) glycoside (approx. 50%) LAMESOFT ^® PO 65 Coco-Glucoside ( and) Coco-Glucoside (and) 3.0 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate COSMEDIA ^® GUAR C Guarhydroxypropyltri- Guar Hydroxypropyl 0.3 261 N (Cognis) methylammonium Chloride Trimom ^' um Chloride EUPERLAN ^® PK 1200 Liquid dispersion of Coco -Glucoside (and) 5.0 (Cognis) Pearlescent Glycol Distearate (and) substances and auxiliaries Glycerin sodium chloride 1.2 Herbasol extract valerian 0.3 Euxyl ^® K 400 (Schülke & 0.1 Mayr) water ad 100 pH 5.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RFT, 23 ° C, column 4, 10 rpm 6300

25. Conditioning shampoo constituent Chemical name INCI name Weight% TEXAPON ^® N 70 sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10.0 (Cognis) with 2 mol EO (approx. 70%) PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol coco glucoside 4.0 (Cognis) glycoside (approx. 50%) DEHYTON ^® K (Cognis) fatty acid amide derivative Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.0 with betaine structure (approx. 30%) LAMESOFT ^® PO 65 Coco-Glucoside (and) Coco Glucoside (and) 1.5 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate EUPERLAN ^® PK 3000 Liquid dispersion of glycol distearate (and) 3.2 AM (Cognis) pearlescent Laureth 4 (and) substances and Cocamidopropyl Betaine amphoteric surfactant Herbasol extract valerian 1, 5 Polymer JR ^® 400 Polyquaternium 10 0.3 (Amerchol) sodium chloride 1.5 water ad 100 pH 5.5 viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 8500

26. Baby shampoo, without preservative Component Chemical name INCI name Weight% water ad 100 polymer ^® JR 400 polyquaternium 10 0.4 (Amerchol) TEXAPON ^® K 14 S sodium lauryl myristyl ether sodium myreth 11.0 special 70% (Cognis) sulfate ( 70%) sulfates DEHYTON ^® PK 45 fatty acid amide derivative cocamidopropyl 5.0 (Cognis) with betaine structure (approx. betaines 45%) PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 5.0 (Cognis) glycoside (approx. 50%) LAMESOFT ^® PO 65 Coco-Glucoside (and) Coco-Glucoside (and) 5.0 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate Herbasol Extract Valerian 5.0 Sodium Chloride 1.8

PH 5.5 viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 3900 7. Pearlescent care shampoo

Ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight

TEXAPON ^® NSO sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 29.0

(Cognis) (approx. 28%)

PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol coco glucoside 5.0

(Cognis) glycoside (approx. 50%)

TEXAPON ^® SB 3 KC sulfosuccinic acid disodium laureth 3.8

(Cognis) ester based on a sulfosuccinate alkyl polyglycol ether, di-Na salt (approx. 40%)

HYDAGEN ^® HSP Trimethylolpropane- 0.5

(Cognis) hydroxymethyl stearate ether

EUPERLAN ^® PK 3000 Liquid dispersion of glycol distearate (and) 3.0

AM (Cognis) pearlescent Laureth-4 (and) substances and Cocamidopropyl Amphotensid Betaine

Herbasol extract valerian 2.0

NaCl ad 100 water

PH 5.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4100

8. Cream hair color constituent Chemical name INCI name Weight% Lanette ^® O (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 17.0 CUTINA ^® AGS (Cognis) ethylene glycol distearate Glycol Distearate 1.5 EUMULGIN ^® B2 Polyoxyethylene-20-Ceteareth-20 3.0 (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol EUMULGLN ^® B1 polyoxyethylene-12- ceteareth-12 3.0 (Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol EUMULGIN ^® 05 polyoxyethylene-5-oleth-5 1.0 (Cognis) oleylcetyl alcohol eumulgin ^® O10 (Cognis) polyoxyethylene-10-oleth- 10 1.0 oleyl cetyl alcohol COMPERLAN ^® KD coconut fatty acid diethanol cocamides DEA 5.0 (Cognis) amide water ad 100 DEHYQUART ^® L 80 mixture of esterquat dicocoylethyl 1.5 (Cognis) and propylene glycol hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) propylene glycol propylene glycol 5.0 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85 2-methylresorcinol 0.14 6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42 valerian oil 1.0 sodium sulfite 0.6 EDTA tetrasodium EDTA 0.2 ammonia, 28% 5.0 29. Foam bath constituent Chemical name INCI name% by weight TEXAPON ^® NSO sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 27.0 (approx. 28%) PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol coco glucoside 9.0 glycoside (approx. 50%) DEHYTON ^® PK 45 Real betaine, fatty acid cocamidopropyl 4.0 amide derivative with betaine betaine structure (approx. 45%) GLUADIN ^® W 40 partial hydrolyzate from Hydrolyzed Wheat 4.0 wheat protein Herbasol extract valerian 1.0 sodium chloride sodium chloride 0.3 water ad 100

30. Cleansing milk ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight EMULGADE ^® SE Mixture of partial glyceryl stearate (and) 6.0 (Cognis) glycerides, fatty alcohols, Ceteareth20 (and) wax esters and ethoxy-Cetearethl2 (and) lated fatty alcohols Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate EUTANOL ^® G (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 7.0 (Guerbet alcohol) valerian oil 2.0

CETIOL ^® 868 (Cognis) isooctyl Octyl Stearate 8.0 3.0 Glycerol 86% Carbopol ^® carbomer 981/2% 10.0 (Goodrich) swelling NaOH 10% 0.8 water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle. 5, 10 rpm 8,000

31. All-purpose cleaner

Ingredient Chemical name% by weight GLUCOPON ^® 215 CS UP alkyl polyglycoside 3.5 (Cognis) DEHYDOL ^® O4 DEO fatty alcohol ethoxylate 1.7 (Cognis) citric acid 9.6 acetic acid 2.4 Herbasol extract valerian 3.0 water ad 100 pH value 2.0-2.5

32. Hand dishwashing detergent component Chemical name% by weight C 13/17 alkanesulfonate alkanesulfonate C 13/17 (approx. 60%) 19.5 TEXAPON ^® N 70 (Cognis) lauiyl ether sulfate, Na salt (approx. 9.0 70%) DEHYTON ^® K (Cognis) fatty acid amide derivative with 13.3 betaine structure approx. 30%> D, L-3,3-GLUCOPON ^® 600 CS UP alkyl polyglucoside approx. 50% 14.0 (Cognis) Ethanol 5.0 Herbasol extract valerian 0.5 water ad 100 pH 5-6

33. Fabric softener ingredient Chemical name% by weight DEHYQUART ^® AU 56 Esterquat (Cognis, approx. 80%) 16.7 Calcium Chloride (25%) 0.5 Herbasol extract valerian 0.65 Water ad 100

34. Floor cleaner constituent Chemical name% by weight DEHYPON ^® LS 54 fatty alcohol alkoxylate 7.0 (Cognis) DEHYPON ^® LT 104 fatty alcohol alkoxylate, 2.0 (Cognis) end group capped butyl diglycol 10.0 Na-cumene sulfonate (40%) 3.0 valerian extract 0 , 3 water ad 100 pH 6.5-7.5

35. Hair conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3.3 Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart ^® A-CA ² 2.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 ³ 1.0

Citric acid 0.4

Gluadin ^® WQ ⁴ 2.0

Valerian oil 0.5

^Phenonip®5 0.8

Water ad 100

¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)

² trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride approx. 25% active substance (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)

³ N, N, N-trimethyl-2 [(methyl-l-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -ethanaminium chloride homopolymer (50% active substance; INCI name: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprilate dicaprate (and ) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) (ALLIED COLLOIDS)

⁴ Cationized wheat protein hydrolyzate approx. 31% active substance (INCI name: Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)

⁵ Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid-butyl ester-phenoxyethanol mixture (approx. 28% active substance; INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA)

36. Hair conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3.3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart ^® L 80 ⁶ 0.4

Cosmedia Guar ^® C 261 ⁷ 1.5

Promois® ^® Milk-CAQ ⁸ 3.0

Valerian oil 0.5 Citric acid 0.4

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

⁶ bis (cocoylethyl) hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate (approx. 76% active substance in propylene glycol; INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (COGNIS)

• η guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; ESO Name: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride (COGNIS)

⁸ INCI name: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein (SEIWA KASEI)

37. Hair treatment

Dehyquart ^® F75 ⁹ 4.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.0

Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1.5

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 1.5

Amisafe-LMA-60 ^®10 1.0

Gluadin ^® W 20 ¹¹ 3.0

Valerian oil 0.5

Sericin 0.5

Fibroin 0.3

Pantolactone 0.3

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

⁹ fatty alcohol-methyltriethanola monium methyl sulfate dialkyl ester mixture (INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)

¹⁰ INCI name Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl EtherHCl (Ajinomoto) ¹¹ Wheat protein hydrolyzate (20% active substance in water; INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydrolized Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (COGNIS)

38. Hair Treatment

Dehyquart ^® L80 2.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 6.0

Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2.0

Rewoquat ^® W 75 ¹² 2.0

Valerian oil 0.5

Cosmedia Guar C261 ^® 0.5

Sepigel ^® 305 ¹³ 3.5

Honeyquat ^® 50 ¹⁴ 1.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 2.5

Gluadin ^® W 20 3.0

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

12 l-methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (approx. 75% active substance in propylene glycol; INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol) (WITCO)

13 copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) (SEPPIC)

14 INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (BROOKS)

39. Hair treatment

Dehyquart ^® F75 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 1.5

Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. ¹⁵ 1.5

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5 Gafquat ^® 755N ¹⁶ 1.5

Biodocarb ^® 0.02

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100

¹⁵ polydimethylsiloxane (LNCI name: Dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)

16 dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (19% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF)

17 3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butyl carbamate (LNCI name: iodopropynyl butyl carbamate) (MLLKER & GRÜNLNG)

40. Hair treatment

Sepigel ^® 305 5.0

Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 ¹⁸ 1.5

Promois ^® Milk Q ¹⁹ 3.0

Polymer P 1 according to DE 3929173 0.6

Valerian extract (extracted with CO ₂ ) 0.5

Genamin ^® DSAC ²⁰ 0.3

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100

1 o silicone glycol copolymer (LNCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol) (DOW CORNING)

19 LNCI name hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein approx. 30% active substance (SEIWA KASEI)

20 Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (LNCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

41. Shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO ²¹ 40.0 Dehyton ^® G ²² 6.0

Polymer JR 400 ^®23 0.5

Cetiol ^® HE ²⁴ 0.5

Ajidew ^® NL 50 ²⁵ 1.0

Gluadin ^® WQT ²⁶ 2.5

Valerian oil 0.5

Gluadin ^® W 20 0.5

Panthenol (50%) 0.3

Vitamin E 0.1

Vitamin H 0.1

Citric acid 0.5

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Perfume 0.4

NaCl 0.5

Water ad 100

²¹ sodium lauryl ether sulfate approx. 28% active substance (INCI - name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

²² INCI name: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate approx. 30% active substance (COGNIS)

²³ quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (LNCI - - designation: Polyquaternium- 10) (UNION CARBIDE)

²⁴ polyol fatty acid esters (LNCI - designation: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) (COGNIS)

²⁵ Sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid (AJLNOMOTO) LNCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheal t Protein (COGNIS)

42. Shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 43.0

Dehyton ^® K ²⁷ 10.0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP ²⁸ 4.0

Euperlan ^® PK 3000 ²⁹ 1.6 Arquad ^® 316 ³⁰ 0.8

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3

Gluadin WQ ^® 4.0

Glucamate ^® DOE 120 ³¹ 0.5

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Valeric acid 0.3

Sodium chloride 0.2

Water ad 100

27 LNCI - designation: cocamidopropyl betaine approx. 30% active substance (COGNIS) 28 C 12 - C 16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active substance (LNCI - designation: lauryl glucoside) (COGNIS)

29 Liquid dispersion of pearlescent substances and amphoteric surfactant (approx. 62% active substance; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth- 4 (and) Cocoamidopropyl Betaine) (COGNIS)

30 tri-C-alkylmethylammonium chloride (AKZO)

31 ethoxylated methyl glucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleates) (AMERCHOL)

43. Shampoo

Texapon ^® N 70 ³² 21.0 Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 8.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 1.5

Cutina ^® EGMS ³³ 0.6

Honeyquat ^® 50 ³⁴ 2.0

Ajidew ^® NL 50 2.8

Antil ^® 141 ³⁵ 1.3

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Sodium chloride 0.2

Magnesium hydroxide ad pH 4.5

Water ad 100 ³² sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 mol EO approx. 70% active substance (LNCI - name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

³³ ethylene glycol monostearate (approx. 25-35%) monoesters, 60-70% diesters; LNCL Name: Glycol Stearate) (COGNIS)

34 LNCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (approx. 50%> active substance) (BROOKS)

3 ₅ Polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40% active substance; LNCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMLDT)

44. Shampoo

Texapon ^® K 14 S ³⁶ 50.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Plantacare ^® 818 UP ³⁷ 4.5

Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6

Cutina® AGS ³⁸ 2.0

D-panthenol 0.5

Glucose 1.0

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Salicylic acid 0.4

Sodium chloride 0.5

Gluadin ^® WQ 2.0

Water ad 100

³⁶ sodium lauryl myristyl ether sulfate approx. 28% active substance (LNCI - name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

³⁷ C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active substance (LNCI - designation: Coco Glucoside) (COGNIS)

³⁸ ethylene glycol stearate (approx. 5-15% o monoester, 85-95%) diester; LNCI - designation: Glycol Distearate) (COGNIS)

45. Hair treatment

Celquat ^® L 200 ³⁹ 0.6 Luviskol ^® K30 ⁴⁰ 0.2

D-panthenol 0.5

Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6

Dehyquart ^® A-CA ⁴¹ 1.0

Gluadin ^® W 40 ⁴² 1.0

Natrosol ^® 250 HR ⁴³ 1.1

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Gluadin ^® WQ 2.0

Water ad 100

39 quaternized cellulose derivative (95%> active substance; CTFA name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT NATIONAL)

40 polyvinylpyrrolidone (95% active substance; CTFA name: PVP) (BASF) 41 cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (LNCI - name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)

42 partial hydrolyzate from wheat approx. 40% active substance (LNCI - name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)

43 hydroxyethyl cellulose (AQUALON)

46. Coloring cream

Lanette ^® O ⁴⁴ 4.0

Eumulgin ^® B 2 0.8

Cutina ^® KD 16 ⁴⁵ 2.0

Sodium sulfite 0.5

L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5

Ammonium sulfate 0.5

1,2-propylene glycol 1,2

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85

2-methylresorcinol 0.14 6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42

Cetiol OE ^{® 46} 0.5

Valerian oil 0.5

Honeyquat 50 ^® 1.0

Ajidew ^® NL 50 1.2

Gluadin ^® WQ 1.0

Ammonia 1.5

Water ad 100

⁴⁴ Cetylstearyl alcohol (LNCI - name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

⁴⁵ Self-emulsifying mixture of mono- / diglycerides of higher saturated fatty acids with potassium stearate (LNCI - designation: Glyceryl Stearate SE)

(Cognis)

⁴⁶ di-n-octyl ether (LNCI - designation: dicaprylyl ether) (COGNIS)

47. Developer dispersion for coloring cream 12.

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 2.1

Hydrogen peroxide (50%>) 12.0

Turpinal ^® SL ⁴⁷ 1.7

Latekoll ^® D ⁴⁸ 12.0

Valerian oil 0.5

Gluadin ^® WQ 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 1.0

Water ad 100

⁴⁷ l-hydroxyethane-l, l-diphosphonic acid (60% active substance; LNCI - name: Etidronic Acid) (COGNIS)

⁴⁸ acrylic ester-methacrylic acid copolymer (25% active substance) (BASF)

The coloring cream had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair.

48. Tint shampoo Texaρon ^® N 70 14.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Akypo ^® RLM 45 NV ⁴⁹ 14.7

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0

Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3

Cremophor ^® RH 40 ⁵⁰ 0.8

Dye C.I. 12 719 0.02

Dye C.I. 12 251 0.02

Dye C.I. 12 250 0.04

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Dye C.I. 56,059 0.03

Preservation 0.25

Perfume oil q.s.

Eutanol ^® G ⁵¹ 0.3

Gluadin ^® WQ 1.0

Honeyquat 50 ^® 1.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5

Water ad 100

⁴⁹ Lauryl alcohol + 4.5 ethylene oxide-acetic acid sodium salt (20.4%> active substance) (CHEM-Y)

⁵⁰ castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (LNCI - designation: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF)

⁵¹ 2-octyldodecanol (Guerbet alcohol) (LNCI - designation: octyldodecanol) (COGNIS)

When washing the hair with this tinting shampoo, it gets a shiny, light blonde shade.

49. Cream permanent wave

Well cream

Plantacare ^® 810 UP ⁵² 5.0

Thioglycolic acid 8.0 Turpinal ^® SL 0.5

Ammonia (25%>) 7.3

Ammonium carbonate 3.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0

Guerbet alcohol 4.0

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Salcare ^® SC 96 3.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 2.0

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100

⁵² Cg-C ^ _Q -alkyl glucoside with degree of oligomerization 1.6 (approx. 60% active substance) (COGNIS)

fixing

Plantacare ^® 810 UP 5.0 hardened castor oil 2.0

Potassium bromate 3.5

Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3

Citric acid 0.2

Herbasol extract valerian 0.5

Merquat ^® 550 ⁵³ 0.5

Hydagen ^® HCMF ⁵⁴ 0.5

Gluadin ^® WQ 0.5

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100

⁵³ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (8%> active substance; LNCI - designation: Polyquarternium 7) (MOBIL OLL)

⁵⁴ Chitosan powder (LNCI - name: Chitosan) (COGNIS) 50. Facial Toner 50.1 50.2 50.3

Pluronic ^® L 64 ⁵⁵ 3.0 4.0 5.0

Herbasol extract valerian 0.25 0.25 0.25

Dipropylene glycol 10.0 10.0 10.0

Emulsifier TD9 / PEG40HCO ⁵⁶ 0.5 0.5 0.5

Perfume 0.2 0.2 0.2

Zn gluconate 0.05 0.07 0.10

Hydagen ^® CMF ⁵⁷ 3.5 6.0 9.5

Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

⁵⁵ EO-PO-EO block polymer (EO = 40% by weight), OHZ = 39.1

⁵⁶ Trideceth 9 and PEG40 hydrogenated castor oil

⁵⁷ Solution of chitosan (approx. 1% by weight) in a 0.4% aqueous glycolic acid solution

51. Hydrogels 51.1 51.2

Pluronic ^® L64 3.0 3.0

Methocel ^® E4M 0.3 0.20 ⁵⁸

Valerian oil 0.25 0.25

Dipropylene glycol 10.0 10.0

Emulsifier TD9 PEG40HCO 0.5 0.50

Fragrance 0.2 0.20

Cu gluconate 0.05 0.10

Hydagen CMF ^® 3.5 8.0

Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 ad 100

⁵⁸ methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose (DOW)

52. Skin Emulsions (O / W) Gluadin Almond 0.3 0.3

Emulgade ^® SE ⁵⁹ 8.0 8.0

Cutina ^® MD-A ⁶⁰ 1.5 1.5

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 1.5 1.5

Myritol ^® 318 ⁶¹ 10.0 10.0

2-ethylhexyl stearate 5.0 5.0

Dimethylpolysiloxane (350 at) 1.0 1.0

Controx ^® KS ⁶² 0.05 0.05

PHB propyl ester 0.2 0.2

PHB methyl ester 0.2 0.2

Valerian oil 0.5 0.25

1,2-propylene glycol 3.0 3.0

Hydagen® ^® CMF 3.0 8.0

Cu gluconate 0.04 0.10

Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 Ad 100

⁵⁹ Mixture of: Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Palmitate (COGNIS)

⁶⁰ glyceryl stearate (COGNIS)

⁶¹ Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (COGNIS)

⁶² Tocopherol and Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides Citrate (COGNIS)

Claims

Patent claim

1. Composition for cleaning and care of surfaces containing valerian extract and surfactants and / or emulsifiers.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that polymers are additionally contained.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that a compound selected from the group of vitamins and their precursors is additionally contained.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the vitamin or its precursor vitamin E and or at least one vitamin of the B group is selected.

5. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 4 for cleaning and care of surfaces.

6. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for cleaning and care of the skin or keratin fibers.

7. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to avoid stressful conditions of the skin when using the compositions.