EP1786382A1

EP1786382A1 - Extracts as structuring agents

Info

Publication number: EP1786382A1
Application number: EP05777600A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Gabriele Weser; Marlene Henke
Original assignee: Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2004-08-26
Filing date: 2005-08-16
Publication date: 2007-05-23
Also published as: WO2006021349A1; DE102004041572A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a papaya and/or pineapple extract (A) in cosmetic agents for restructuring keratin fibres and for smoothing hair.

Description

"Extracts as structurants"

The invention relates to the use of an extract which can be obtained from papaya and / or pineapple, alone or in combination with other active ingredients for the restructuring of keratinic fibers and corresponding cosmetic methods.

The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. Apart from the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:

For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and Kupplerkom¬ components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components. The oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results. For naturally acting dyeings but usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading. If the dyes formed or used directly in the course of color formation have significantly different fastnesses (eg UV stability, perspiration fastness, wash fastness, etc.), then Over time, there will be a noticeable and therefore undesirable color shift. This phenomenon occurs more frequently when the hairstyle has hair or hair zones of different degrees of damage. An example of this is long hair, in which the hair tips exposed for a long time to all sorts of environmental influences are usually much more damaged than the relatively newly regrown hair zones.

For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, after such treatments, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from an increased splitting rate.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed in order to reduce the expense of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers. These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. Thus, hair care products are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.

There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that the use of extracts obtained from papaya and / or pineapples can significantly restructure the internal structure of fibers, in particular keratinic fibers. Structural strengthening, that is to say restructuring in the context of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are characterized for example by an improved gloss, improved grip and easier combing. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity. A successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber. A detailed description of the determination of the melting range of hair can be found in DE 196 173 95 A1 Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it has proved to be preferred according to the invention to produce the extracts exclusively from the fruits of the plant.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.

Furthermore, the plant extracts according to the invention may contain at least one preservative. According to the invention preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl and propyl paraben and mixtures thereof, as are commercially available under the name Phenonip ^® for example.

A first object of the present invention is therefore the use of an extract (A), which is obtained from papaya and / or pineapple, in cosmetic agents as active ingredients for the restructuring of fibers.

According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

A second object of the present invention is the use of an extract (A) obtained from papaya and / or pineapple in hair styling cosmetics.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several extracts (A). Extracts (A) are present in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0, 1% by weight up to 5% by weight.

According to a first embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it may be preferable to incorporate the extract (A) directly into a dyeing or tinting agent, that is to use the extract (A) in combination with dyes and / or dye precursors.

As such, oxidation dye precursors of the developer (B1) and coupler type (B2), natural and synthetic direct dyes (C) and precursors of naturally occurring dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups can be used ,

As oxidation dye precursors of the developer type (B 1) are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, located in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, Diaminopyridinderivate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy -2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis (2-hydroxy 5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1, 3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino -2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 1, 10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 931 or US Pat WO 94/08970 such. B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2 , 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine. As the coupler type oxidation dye precursors (B2), m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-di amino-1-methylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2- Methyl 1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-i-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7- Dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4- tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3 , 4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methyl resorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Disperse Orange 3, Basic Orange 31, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, Basic Red 51, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds and 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Hydroxyethyl 2-nitro toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Directly acting dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root.

It is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the inventive hair colorants, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.

With regard to the dyes which can be used in the hair-dyeing and tinting compositions according to the invention, reference is expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Chapter 7 (pages 248-250, direct dyes) and Chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors), published as Volume 7 of the series "Dermatology" (Editor: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), published by Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, and the European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials ", published by the European Community, available in disk form from the Federal Association of German industrial and commercial companies for pharmaceuticals, health products and personal care registered association, Mannheim, reference is made. For example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes. Preferably, such indoles and indolines are used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole dihydroxyindole.

The indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the Hydrochlori- de, sulfates and hydrobromides, are used.

When dye precursors of the indoline or indole type are used, it may be preferable to use them together with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Among the α-aminocarboxylic acids, in turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.

Both the oxidation dye precursors and the substantive dyes and the precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

Hair dyes, especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group. The use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.

If the actual hair dyes are formed in the course of an oxidative process, it is possible to use conventional oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate. However, oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes which contain electrons are also used from geeig¬ Neten developer components (reducing agent) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ^° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

In particular with hair which is difficult to dye, the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, the product is then rinsed and, if desired, shampooed again. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors is intended to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention by fatty substances (D) can be further increased. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters, and thus a mixture of represent different fatty alcohols. Such substances are for example under the names Stenol ^® , eg Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® , z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^®, ^® Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^®, ^® Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^®, ^® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used.

The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:

- vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The as commercial products compounds available 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18- alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2- ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinaf caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelaat, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate,

neopentylglycol, - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

- fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (II),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹ I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (II)

I CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic , Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%. The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions used in the invention is usually 0.5-75 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Also advantageous as the combination of the active ingredient (A) with surfactants (E) has been found. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention comprise surfactants. The term "surfactants" is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH Weinheim, 1994". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms in ^'the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkane sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, linear alpha-olefin with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Blends of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (III),

O

Il R4 _(OCH2 CH2) _n -O ^~ P - OR 5

OX

(III) in the R ^{4 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{5 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ⁴ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ⁶ R ⁷ R ⁸ R ⁹ , where R ⁶ to R ⁹ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,

- sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (IV) R ¹⁰ CO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M (IV) in the R ¹⁰ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (V)

CH 2 θ (CH 2 CH 2 θ) χ COR 1 CHO (CH 2 CH 2 θ) y H (V)

CH2O (CH2CH2O) _z - SQ3X

in which R ¹¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total O or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal , Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (V) are used in which R ¹¹ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE-A1 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),

Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044,

- condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their Derivaten.welche are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - Types ,

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^ or -SO ₃ ⁹ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for forming internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

- Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or O to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- With a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol Propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those under the sales names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis) available types,

C ₁₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated Rizi¬ nusöl,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (VI) R ¹² CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ¹³⁾ OR ¹⁴ _W (VI)

in the R ¹² CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ¹³ for hydrogen or methyl, R ¹⁴ for linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w for numbers of 1 to 20, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with Zuckerfettsäure¬ ester,

Addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (VII), R ¹⁵ O- [G] _P (VII) in R ¹⁵ for an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature is here on the review by Biermann et al. in Starch / Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995). The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (VII) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and is present here For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl- and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and having a fraction of less than 6 wt .-% C. ₁₂ alcohol verun¬ be cleaned and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can furthermore also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on ge härtetem C _{12 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (VIII), R 17

R ¹⁶ CO-N- [Z] (VIII)

in the R ¹⁶ CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{17 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798, and International Patent Application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H.Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (IX): R ¹⁷ OH OH OH

I I l

R ¹⁶ CO-N-CH ₂ -CH-CH-CH-CH-CH ₂ OH (IX)

I

OH

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (IX) in which R ^{17 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ¹⁶ CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or whose technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamides of formula (IX), by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid, or C ₁₂ / i ₄ coconut oil fatty acid or a corresponding Derivative can be obtained. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the preparation of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the particular raw material are obtained.

In the case of surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products having a "normal" homolog distribution and those having a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydrides and hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates obtained as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

Cationic surfactants (E6) of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines can likewise be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such Pro¬-products are sold for example under the trademark Stepantex ^®, Dehyquart ^® and Armocare ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A compound of this group of substances which is particularly suitable according to the invention represents under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available Stearamidopropyl- dimethylamine.

The cationic surfactants (E6) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention by emulsifiers (F) can be increased. Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form OΛ / V emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O

- Emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

- Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred, - mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, in the Han¬ del available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated zincbenzene oil,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,

- sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

- Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g., soybean beans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® ^® PGPH)

- Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents used according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

As further advantageous, it has been shown that polymers (G) can support the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention are therefore added to polymers. where both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers have been shown to be effective.

Cationic polymers (G1) are polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C ₄ -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (X), R ¹⁸

I - [CH ₂ -O] _n X- (X)

I

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ¹⁹ R ²⁰ R ²¹

wherein R ^{18 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ^{21 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (X) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹⁸ is a methyl group R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Examples of suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X- are halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, Citrate, tartrate and acetate ions into consideration. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, PolyCmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such Polymer¬ are dispersions under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 Trideceth-6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene - ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (X) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

- cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

- cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosme- dia ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,

- polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone ), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt), diquatemäre polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (Dimethyldiallylammo- niumchlorid-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers,

- Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

- vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers as among the Be¬ drawings Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 offered,

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

- as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers, the voltages among the Bezeich¬ Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) mers known Poly. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 it ¬ are available. Further inventively preferred cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB /.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey Deri¬ derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are understood to mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products called: Cocodimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropylpltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurydimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyze d SiIk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silica, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention are anionic polymers which Have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as sole or co-monomer have been found to be particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the abovementioned substances. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a contains nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the activity of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO contain ^" - or -SO ₃ ^' groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is sold under the Be¬ drawing Amphomer ^® available acrylic resin which is a copolymer of ethyl methacrylate tert-butylamino, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monoethylenically mers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Published Application 47,714, European Laid-Open Publication 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369. Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (XI), R ²² -CH = CR ²³ -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ²⁴ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ A ^H (XI) in the R ²² and R ²³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (XII), R ²⁷ -CH = CR ²⁸ -COOH (XII) in which R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers is expressly made to the content of German Patent Application 39 29 973 reference. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ²⁴ , R ²⁵ and R ^{26 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxy sulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each VinylpyrrolidonΛ / inylacetat copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as sold, for example, under the trademarks Culminal ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON). shellac

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydi- alkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B1.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The polymers (G) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H) may be present in the preparations used according to the invention. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both plant and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold. Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

The protein hydrolysates or their derivatives are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active compounds (A) by UV filter (I) can be increased. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of the present invention suitable UV filters are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N ₁ N ₁ N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsuIfat, 3,3,5-Tπmethyl-cyclohexyl xylsalicylat (Homosalate ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine (Phenylbenzimi- dazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis ^ -dimethyl-oxo-bicyclo-P, .alhept-i-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and their salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1 , 3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoyl- methane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS , Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®) , 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-Methylbenzyli- dene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-B enylidene-camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazole 4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1, 1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic benzoic acid-menthyl ester ( menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydropyran droxybenzophenon (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-benzophenone ( Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-natrium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2. 1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2 Oxobrom-3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2 , 4,6-Tri- anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers de s N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxo-3-ylidene-methyl] -benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particular preference according to the invention is given to 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethylene compounds. Hanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) - D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect on such water-soluble compounds, which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. For the purposes of the invention, water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ^° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. In principle, this group can be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is protected by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino group. function, is replaced. Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters,

- diphenylacrylic acid ester,

- cinnamic acid ester,

Salicylic acid ester,

Benzimidazoles and

o-aminobenzoic acid ester. Structural parts U, which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide, are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^" , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -} _4- alkyl groups, R ³ is a Ci_ ₂₂ alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the compounds obtainable as commercial products, cinnamic acid amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (incarnate). quat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually contained in quantities of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent, in the compositions used according to the invention. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The effect of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Also advantageous has been the combination of the active ingredient (A) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) proved.

According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

- Vitamin Bi (thiamine)

- Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

- Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). In the context of this group, the panthenol and / or pantoiactone is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

- Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cfl-imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

The agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Finally, the effect of the active ingredient (A) can also be increased by the combined use with other plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, Sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meri¬ stem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if, in addition to the active ingredient (A) of the invention, penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are included. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

The active ingredient (A) according to the invention can in principle be added directly to the colorant, the corrugating agent or the fixation. However, the application of the restructuring agent to the keratinic fiber can also take place in a separate step, either before or after the actual dyeing or corrugating done. Separate treatments, optionally also days or weeks before or after the hair treatment, for example by dyeing or waves, are encompassed by the teaching according to the invention. Preferably, however, the application of the active ingredient according to the invention can be carried out after the corresponding hair treatment such as dyeing or waves, in particular in the corresponding hair treatment compositions.

The term dyeing process comprises all processes known to those skilled in the art, in which a colorant is applied to the hair, which may have been moistened, and left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed or left completely on the hair. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. K. H. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced that reflect the relevant knowledge of the expert.

The term "corrugating process" encompasses all processes known to the person skilled in the art in which a corrugating agent is applied to the hair, which may have been moistened and wound on curlers, and this is left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then is rinsed with water or a surfactant-containing agent, then a permanent wave fixation is applied to the hair and this left for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes on the hair and then rinsed with water or a surfactant-containing agent. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. K. H. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced that reflect the relevant knowledge of the expert.

With regard to the manner in which the active substance according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fiber, in particular human hair, there are no fundamental restrictions. For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (known as phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, Sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. The pH of these preparations can in principle be from 2 to 11 lie. It is preferably between 5 and 11, values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. In the context of the invention, the use of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention is also particularly preferred for adjusting the pH. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

The use of the active ingredient (A) in preparations remaining on the hair has proven to be effective and may therefore represent a preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention. According to the invention, hair-remaining preparations are understood as meaning those preparations which are not rinsed out of the hair within the framework of the treatment after a period of a few seconds to one hour with the aid of water or an aqueous solution. Rather, the preparations remain until the next shampooing, i. usually more than 12 hours, on the hair.

According to a second preferred embodiment, the active ingredient (A) is used in preparations such as hair conditioners or hair conditioners. The preparations according to this embodiment can be rinsed off after expiry of this exposure time with water or an at least predominantly aqueous agent; however, they may be left on the hair as stated above. It may be preferable to apply the preparation to the hair prior to the application of a cleansing agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as a structural protection for the following applications.

According to further preferred embodiments, the active ingredient (A) but also in cleaning agents such as shampoos, nourishing agents such as rinses, strengthening agents such as hair fixatives, mousses, styling gels and hair drier, permanent deformation agents such as perming and fixing and in particular in the context of a permanent wave process or dyeing process used pre-treatment or rinsing. In addition to the inventively mandatory restructuring active ingredient and the other preferred components mentioned above, these preparations may in principle contain all other known to those skilled in such cosmetic products components.

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic polymers, for example vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and Dex¬ trine, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,

symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 and 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether,

Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms,

Monoesters of C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, conditioning active ingredients such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well

Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

- active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol, cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetrating substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,

- Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cystine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

- antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. For example, the above monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

A third aspect of the present invention is a process for the restructuring of fibers, in particular keratin fibers, in which an agent containing the active ingredient (A) or one of the above-described active ingredient combinations, is applied to the fibers, wherein the agent, if desired, after a contact time of Rinsed again for 1 to 45 minutes.

A fourth object of the present invention is a process for hair straightening, in particular keratinic fibers, in which an agent containing the active ingredient (A) or one of the above-described active ingredient combinations, is applied to the fibers, wherein the agent, if desired, after a contact time of 1 to Rinsed again for 45 minutes. Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

1. Proof of effect

1.1 Pretreatment

Strands from the company Alkinco (0.5 g, code 6634) were mixed with a Texapon NSO solution

(10% active substance) pre-cleaned and then subjected to a conventional permanent wave treatments with the commercial product PoIy Lock-Normal Perm. As part of this perming treatment, the fibers were exposed in a first step for 40 minutes at room temperature to the reducing solution (containing 7.9% by weight thioglycolic acid, 2 g reduction solution per 1 g tress), rinsed with pure water for 90 seconds and then at room temperature for 10 minutes fixed (oxidation solution containing 2.6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide, 2 g reduction solution per 1 g tress). After the oxidative treatment, the fibers were rinsed and dried.

1.2 Aftercare

The strands were each at room temperature for 15 minutes in a 0.5% aqueous

Solution of the respective active ingredient dipped. Each strand of hair was then air-dried (leave-on) or rinsed with clean water for 30 seconds (rinse-off).

1.3 Proof of the hair-structuring effect by means of HP-DSC

By means of a DSC analysis (Perkin Elmer DSC-7 RSe), the following melting points shown in Table 1 were determined. A detailed description of the method can be found for example in DE 196 173 95 A1 Table I:

2. Application examples

The following formulations were prepared:

2.1 Hair Conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Lamesoff PO 65 0.5

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 2.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 1 0

Citric acid 0.4

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Pyridoxine 1, 0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 0.5

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

2.2 Hair Conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart ^® L 80 0.4

Lamesoft ^® PO 65 1, 5

Cosmedia® guar ^® C 261 1.5

Promois® ^® MEECH-Q 3.0

Citric acid 0.4

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 1, 0

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100 2.3 conditioner

Dehyquart ^® F75 4.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1, 5

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0

Lamesoft ^® PO 65 1 0

Salcare ^® SC 96 ^• 1, 5

Lactic Acid 2.5

Hydrofruit Bromelaine EXT HG 0.5

Amisafe-LMA-60 ^® 1, 0

Gluadin® ^® W 20 3.0

Germall ^® 115 1 0

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

2.4 hair cure

Dehyquart ^® L80 2.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 6.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2,0

Rewoquat ^® W 75 2.0

Cosmedia Guar C261 ^® 0.5

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Sepigel ^® 305 3,5

Honeyquat ^® 50 1 0

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.5

Gluadin® ^® W 20 3.0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 1, 0

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100 2.5 conditioner

Dehyquart ^® F75 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 1, 5

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. 1, 5

Gafquat 755N ^® 1.5

Glyceric acid 1.5

Hydrofruit Bromelaine EXT HG 0.5

Biodocarb ^® 0.02

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100

2.6 shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 40.0

Dehyton ^® G 6.0

Polymer JR ^400® 0.5

Cetiol ^® HE 0.5

Ajidew ^® NL 50 1.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 3.0 PO

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.5

Gluadin ^® W 20 0.5

Panthenol (50%) 0.3

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 2.0

Vitamin E 0.1

Vitamin H 0.1

Citric acid 0.5

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Perfume 0.4

NaCl 0.5 water ad 100 2.7 shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 43.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 2.5 PO

Euperlan ^® PK 3000 1, 6

Arquad ^® 316 0.8

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3

Gluadin WQ ^® 4.0

Lactic acid 0.5

Hydrofruit Bromelaine EXT HG 3.0

Glucamate DOE 120 ^® 0.5

Sodium chloride 0.2 water ad 100

2.8 shampoo

Texapon ^® N 70 21 0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 8.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 3.0 PO

Gluadin ^® WQ 1, 5

Cutina ^® EGMS 0.6

Honeyquat 50 ^® 2.0

Ajidew NL ^® 50 2.8

Aritil ^® 141 1 3

Hydrofruit Bromelaine EXT HG 0.5

Sodium chloride 0.2

Magnesium hydroxide ad pH 4.5

Water ad 100 2.9 shampoo

Texapon ^® K 14 S 50.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Plantacare® ^® 818 UP 4.5

Lamesoft ^® PO 65 ^'2.0

Polymer W37194 0.6

Cutina ^® AGS 2.0

D-panthenol 0.5

Glucose 1.0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 1, 0

Salicylic acid 0.4

Sodium chloride 0.5

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Water ad 100

2.10 coloring cream

Ci _2- ₈ fatty alcohol i 1, 2

Lanette ^® O 4.0

Eumulgin ^® B 2 0.8

Cutina ^® KD 16 2.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 4.0 PO

Sodium sulfite 0.5

L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5

Ammonium sulfate 0.5

1, 2-propylene glycol 1, 2

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85

2-methylresorcinol 0.14

6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42

Cetiol ^® OE 0.5

Honeyquat ^® 50 1 0

Ajidew NL ^® 50 1 2

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1, 0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 1.0

Ammonia 1, 5

Water ad 100

2.11 Developer Dispersion for Dyeing Cream 12.

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 2.1

Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0

Turpinal SL ^® 1, 7

Latekoll ^® D 12.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 2.0 PO

Gluadin WQ ^® 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 1 0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 0.5

Citric acid 0.8

Water ad 100 2.12 tinting shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® N 70 14.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Akypo RLM 45 ^® NV 14.7

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 3.0 PO

Polymer W37194 0.3

Cremophor ^® RH 40 0.8

Hydrofruit Bromelaine EXT HG 1, 0

Dye Cl. 12,719 0.02

Dye Cl. 12,251 0.02

Dye Cl. 12 250 0.04

Dye Cl. 56 059 0.03

Preservation 0.25

Perfume oil q.s.

Eutanol ^® G 0.3

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1, 0

Honeyquat ^® 50 1 0

Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5

Water ad 100

2.13 Cream duration wave-well cream

Plantacare® ^® 818 UP 5.0

Thioglycolic acid 8.0

Turpinal SL ^® 0.5

Ammonia (25%) 7.3

Ammonium carbonate 3.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Guerbet Alcohol 4.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 3.0

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 0.5

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100 2.14 Fixing solution for cream duration 13

Plantacare ^® 810 UP 5.0 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0

Lamesoft ^® PO 65 1 0

Potassium bromate 3,5

Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3

Citric acid 0.2

Merquat ^® 550 0.5

Hydagen HCMF ^® 0.5

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 0.5

Gluadin WQ ^® 0.5

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100

2.15 Hair styling gel Desalinated water ad 100

Synthalen ^® K 0.6 Neutral ^® TE 0.5 glycerol DAB 9 86.5 8.00 30.00 ethyl alcohol Gluadin ^® WQ 1, 0 Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 1, 5 Polyethylene glycol 2.00 PVP / VA W-635 6 50 Cremophor ^® RH 40 1, 00 perfume 0.50 pH = 7.0 2.16 Hairspray Amphomer ^® 3.00

Luviskol ^® VA 37 16.00

2-amino-2-methylpropanol 0.60

Isopropyl myristate 0.12

Hydrofruit Bromelaine EXT HG 0.5

Gluadin ^® WLM 2.0

Pantolactone 0.5

Perfume 0.20

Desalinated water ad 100

Ethyl alcohol 67.50 pH = 7.0

2.17 Haartonic Desalination water ad 100

Panthenol 0.1 75 Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 10.5 Gluadin ^® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 2.5 Carbopol ^® 0.1 Neutral ^® TE 0.10 Ethyl alcohol 30.0 pH = 7.0

2.18 hair wax

Desalinated water ^'to 100

Neutral ^® TE 0.1

Paraffin oil Dm 9 8.0

Eumulgin ^® 05 2.00

Crodafos ^® N3 Acid 3,00

Sorbitol 10.0

Glycerol 0.5

Butanediol 3,5

Hydrofruit Bromelaine ^® EXT HG 3,5

Abil ^® B 8843 0.3

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Perfume 0,5

Antara ^® 430 2.5

2.19 Hair Conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.5

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.5

Cetyl ester 0.5

Isopropyl myristate 0.3

Paraffin oil Dab 9, 35cp 0,5

Citric acid 0.2

Genamine CTAC 1, 5 p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.4 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.3

Phenoxyethyl alcohol • 1, 0

Papaya Fruit HPG ^® 1, 5

Desalinated water ad 100 2.20 hair conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.5

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.5

Cetyl ester 0.5

Isopropyl myristate 0.3

Paraffin oil Dab 9, 35cp 0,5

Citric acid 0.2

Genamin ^® CTAC 1.5 p-hydroxybenzoic acid Methylester 0.4 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.3

Phenoxyethyl alcohol 1, 0

Hydro Fruit Bromelaine ^® HG EXT 0.5

Desalinated water ad 100

3. List of used commercial products

The commercial products used in the examples are defined as follows:

Abil ^® B 8843 polyether-polysiloxane (INCI name:

PEG-14 Dimethicone) (Degussa)

Ajidew ^® NL50 sodium salt of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (about 48-52%

Active substance content; INCI name: Sodium PCA) (Ajinomoto)

Akypo RLM 45 NV ^® lauryl alcohol ~ 4.5-EO-acetic acid-sodium-salt (at least 22%

Active substance content; INCI name: sodium laureth-5 carboxylates) (Chem-Y)

Amisafe LMA-60 ^® (INCI name: hydroxypropyl Arginine lauryl / myristyl

Ether HCl) (Ajinomoto)

Amphomer ^® INCI name: Otylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National Starci)

Antara ^® 430 vinylpyrrolidone styrene copolymer (about 38-41% solids in

Water; INCI name: styrene / VP copolymer) (ISP)

Anti- ^® 141 Polyoxyethylenpropylenglykoldioleat (about 40%

Active substance content; INCI name: Propylene Glycol, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (Goldschmidt)

Arquad ^® 316 Tri-C ₁₆ -alkylmethylammoniumchlorid (about 86-90%

Active substance content; INCI name: Tricetylmonium Chloride) (Akzo Nobel) Biodocarb ^® 3-iodo-2-n-proinyl butylcarbamate (INCI name: lodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) (Milker & Grüning)

Carbopol ^® Polyarcylsäure (INCI name: Carbomer) (Noveon) Cetioϊ ^® HE Kokosmonglycerid with about 7.3 EO units (INCI name: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) (Cognis)

Cetiol ^® OE dioctyl (INCI name: dicaprylyl) (Cognis)

Cosmedia Guar C 261 ^® Guarhydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid (min. 93%

Solid; INCI name: Guar

Hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides) (Cognis Corporation Cosmedia)

Cremophor ^® RH40 hydrogenated castor oil with 40-45 EO units (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF) Crodafos ^® N3 Acid Polyoxethylenoleylether-3-EO-phosphate (INCI

Title: Oleth-3 Phosphate) (Croda) Cutina ^® AGS ethylene glycol distearate (INCI name: Glycol Distearate) (Cognis) Cutina EGMS ^® ethylene glycol plant-based (INCI name: Glycol Stearate) (Cognis) Cutina ^® KD 16 C ^ - ₁₈ -fatty acid diglyceride-potassium mixture (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate SE) (Cognis) Dehyquart ^® A-CA trimethyl hexadecyl ammonium chloride (approximately 24 -26% of active substance; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium Chloride) (Cognis )

Dehyquart ^® F75 fatty alcohols Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfat--dialkyl-mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (Henkel) Dehyquart ^® L80 bis (Cocoylethyl) -hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium methosulfate (approximately 76% active ingredient in propylene glycol; INCI lots: Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Propylene glycol) (Henkel) Dehyton ^® GN (2-hydroxyethyl) -

N (kokosamidoethyl) carboxymethylglycinat sodium salt (approximately 39-31% active substance content; INCI name: Aqua (Water) Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) (Cognis) Dehyton ^® CN, N-dimethyl-N- (C8-18- cocamidopropyl) ammoniumaceto-betaine (about 30% active ingredient; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)

Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid polydimethylsiloxane (INCI designation: Dimethicone) (Dow Corning) Eumulgin B2 ^® cetylstearyl alcohol with about 20 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis) Eumulgin ^® 05 oleyl-cetyl alcohol with about 5 EO units based on plants (INCI name: Oleth-5) (Cognis) Euperlan ^® PK3000 approx. 60-64% solids; INCI name: Glycol Distearate, Glycerol, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)

Eutanol ^® G 2-octyldodecyl alcohol (INCI name: Octyldodecanol) (Cognis) Gafquat ^® 755 dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (ca. 19% solids in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)

Genamin ^® CTAC trimethyl hexadecyl ammonium chloride (approximately 28-30% active substance content in water; INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (Clariant) ^® Germall 115 N, N 'methylenebis [N' - [1- (hydroxymethyl) -2,5-dioxo 4- imidazolidinyl] urea (INCI name: imidazolidinyl Urea) (ISP) Giuadin ^® W20 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 20% solids; INCI name:. Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat protein, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben ) (Cognis)

Gluadin ^® WLM wheat protein hydrolyzate (about 21-24% solids, INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (Cognis) Gluadin ^® WQ wheat protein hydrolyzate (about 31-35% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, ethylparaben, methylparaben) (Cognis)

Glucamate ^® DOE 120 methylglucoside dioleate with approx. 120 EO units (INCI name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) (Chemron)

Honeyquat ^® 50 INCI name: hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey) (Arch Personal Care Products) Hydagen® ^® HCMF deacetylated chitin (INCI name: chitosan) (Cognis)

Hydrofruit Bromelaine ¹⁸ INCI Name: Water, Propylene Glycol, Bromelain, EXT HG Phenoxyethanol, Parabens (Groupe Soliance)

Hydrofruit Papaine ^® INCI name: Water, Propylene Glycol, Papain, EXT HG Phenoxyethanol, Parabens (Groupe Soliance)

Lanette ^® O Ci -i ₆ ₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis) Lamesoft PO65 ^® alkylpolyglucoside monoglyceride mixture (about 65- 70% solids; INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (Water )) (Cognis)

Latekoll ^® D Acrylic acid ester Copolymer.containing carboxyl groups; (about 24- 26% solids in water) Luviskol ^® VA37 vinylpyrrolidone vinyl acetate copolymer (30:70) (about 48-52% solids in i-propanol; INCI name: VP / VA Copolymer, Isopropyl Alcohol) (BASF) Merquat ^® 550 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride acrylamide copolymer (about 8.1-9.1% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) (Ondeo-Nalco) Neutral ^® TE N, N, N ', N', - tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl ) -ethylenediamine (INCI name: Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine) (BASF) Papaya Fruit HPG ¹⁸ (about 5-9.9% Carica papaya in propylene glycol and water, preserved with parabens, INCI name: Carica papaya L.) (Alban Muller industry) Phenonip ^® hydroxybenzoate-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester-Hydroxybenzoesäurepropylester- hydroxybenzoate-phenoxyethanol mixture (about 28% active substance; INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben,

Propylparaben, butylparaben) (Nipa)

Plantacare ^® 818UP C8-14-alkylpolyglucoside (about 51-53% Akticsubstanzgehalt INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Plantacare® 1200 UP C12-16-fatty alcohol-1,4-glucoside (about 50 -53%

Active substance content; INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis)

Polymer JR ^® 400 quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (Amerchol) Polymer ^® W 37194 about 20wt .-% of active substance content in the water; INCI name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer (Stockhausen)

Promois ^® Milk casein hydrolysates quaternized Q (INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein) (Interorgana) PVP / VA W-635 vinyl pyrrolidone vinyl acetate copolymer (Ca.48-52% solids in water; INCI name: VP / VA Copolymer) (ISP)

Rewoquat W75 ^® l-methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-talgfettsäureamidoethyl- imidazolinium methosulphate (75% active ingredient in propylene glycol; INCI name: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol) (WITCO)

Salcare ^® SC 96 about 50% active ingredient content; INCI name: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol

Dicaprylates / dicaprate, PPG-1 trideceth-6 (CIBA)

Sepigel ^® 305 about 45-49% solids; INCI name: polyacrylamides amides, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7) (Seppic) Synthalen ^® K polyacrylic acid (ca. 89% active substance content; INCI name: Carbomer) (3V Sigma) Texapon ^® K 14 S-sodium Laurylmyristylethersulfat Salt (about 68% to 73% active ingredient content ^' , INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (Cognis) Texapon.RTM ^® N70 lauryl ether sulfate, sodium salt (about 70-73% active substance;

INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis)

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO lauryl ether sulfate, sodium salt (about 27.5% of active substance;

INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis)

Turpinal ^® SL 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (about 58 - 61%

Active substance content; INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia)

Claims

claims

1. Use of an extract (A), which is obtained from papaya and / or pineapple, in cosmetic agents for the restructuring of keratinic fibers.

2. Use of an extract (A), which is obtained from papaya and / or pineapple, in cosmetics for hair straightening.

3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with polymers (G) is used.

4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with surfactants (E) is used.

5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with fatty substances (D) is used.

6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (H) is used.

7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with UV filters (J) is used.

8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with oxidation dye precursors (B) is used.

9. Use according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the compound (A) in combination with substantive dyes (C) is used.

10. A process for the restructuring of fibers, in particular keratinic fibers, characterized in that an agent containing an active substance or. an active ingredient combination according to any one of claims 1 to 8, is applied to the fibers, wherein the agent is optionally rinsed again after an exposure time of 1 to 45 minutes.

11. A method for hair straightening, in particular keratinic fibers, characterized in that an agent containing an active substance or. an active ingredient combination according to any one of claims 1 to 8, is applied to the fibers, wherein the agent is optionally rinsed again after an exposure time of 1 to 45 minutes.