WO2003035018A1 - New use of sugar surfactants and fatty acid partial glycerides in colouring media - Google Patents

Abstract

Through the use of a new combination of actives substances, composed of sugar surfactants, partial glycerides and a colouring component, it is possible to substantially improve the colouring strength of said colouring component as well as the structure of fibres which are treated with said combination.

Description

 "New use of sugar surfactants and fatty acid partial glycerides in color-changing agents"

The invention relates to the use of an active ingredient combination of sugar surfactants and fatty acid partial glycerides and certain color-changing components in agents for treating fibers, in particular keratinic fibers.

Today human hair is treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include cleaning the hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and cures, as well as bleaching, dyeing and shaping the hair with colorants, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

Preparations for tinting and coloring hair are an important type of cosmetic products. They can be used to shade the natural hair color slightly or more according to the wishes of the person concerned, to achieve a completely different hair color or to cover up undesirable shades, such as shades of gray. Depending on the desired color or durability of the dyeing, conventional hair colorants are formulated either on the basis of oxidation dyes or on the basis of substantive dyes. Combinations of oxidation dyes and direct dyes are often used to achieve special shades.

Good dyes are characterized by high color strength. Good sweat, wash and light fastness are also desired. They should also be safe from a toxicological and dermatological perspective. It is also advantageous if the substances have a high solubility in various base formulations. Colorants based on oxidation dyes lead to brilliant and lasting shades. However, they require the use of strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide solutions. This can damage the hair to be colored. This damage must then be countered with appropriate care products. In addition, skin contact with these colorants can cause undesirable reactions in very sensitive individuals.

Colorants based on direct dyes can do without oxidizing agents and can be formulated at pH values in the range of the neutral point. A major disadvantage of colorants based on direct dyes is the poor fastness to washing of the dyeings obtained. In many cases, the ability of the dye molecules to draw onto the hair and the shine of the dyed hair are also not entirely satisfactory.

Better coloring results can be achieved if the substantive dyes are used together with oxidizing agents. This increases the absorptive power of the direct dyes on the hair. At the same time, however, the hair to be dyed can be damaged.

Dark blonde or lighter hair is essentially suitable for lightening procedures, the so-called bleaching procedures. The basics of the bleaching process are known to the person skilled in the art and can be found in relevant monographs, e.g. by K.H. Schrader, basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1989, Dr. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, or W. Umbach (ed.), Kosmetik, 2nd edition, 1995, Georg. Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York.

For bleaching human hair - especially for highlighting - usually solid or pasty preparations with solid oxidizing agents are mixed with a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution immediately before use. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed out again after a certain exposure time. The bleaching agents that are on the market today cannot yet be regarded as optimal. The degree of lightening or coloring leaves something to be desired, and the oxidative weakening of the hair structure when using the usual bleaching agents is undesirable.

The preparations mentioned - the bleaching agents and the coloring agents, the latter on the basis of direct dyes - are referred to hereinafter as "color-changing agents". The color-technical performance of these products means both the lightening performance of the bleaching agents and the increased lift capacity of the direct dyes Both agents contain a color-changing active ingredient (C) as the essential active component. In the case of the bleaching agents, solid peroxo compounds are used as color-changing active ingredients (Cl). The direct-dyeing colorants contain the direct-acting dye as color-changing active ingredient (C2).

EP 0 655 905 B1 discloses the use of alkyl glycosides in colorants. DE-OS 199 190 89 describes hair color preparations with sugar surfactants and fatty acid partial glycerides which strengthen the hair structure and are well tolerated by the dermatology. However, no information on increasing the lightening performance and the structural strengthening of the hair when used in bleaching agents is disclosed.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that the use of the active ingredient combination according to the invention consisting of sugar surfactants and fatty acid partial glycerides significantly increases the color performance and, at the same time, the structure of the fiber, in particular the keratinic fiber, can be strengthened.

A first object of the present invention is therefore the use of an active ingredient combination (W) a) at least one sugar surfactant (A) selected from the group formed by alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides (AI) and fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides (A2), and b) at least one fatty acid partial glyceride (B) c) a color-changing component (C) selected from the group of solid peroxo compounds (Cl) and / or the group of direct dyes (C2) to increase the dyeing performance and simultaneous structural strengthening of fibers, in particular keratin fibers, in color-changing agents.

The active ingredient combination (W) used according to the invention improves the color performance of color-changing agents, that is to say the brightening and / or the color absorption of direct dyes and the structure, on artificial fibers such as polyesters and natural fibers such as cotton and in particular keratin fibers.

According to the invention, keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.

The active ingredient combination (W) according to the invention contains a sugar surfactant (A) as the first mandatory component.

According to a first embodiment (AI), the sugar surfactant is an alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside. These sugar surfactants are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I)

R'O-ΓGJ _P (D

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature here is the review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Issue 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer, and above all that Can assume values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronalcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C ₉ / π-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. AI- are preferred kyloligoglucoside based on hardened C _{12 /} ι coco alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.

According to a second embodiment (A2) of the invention, the sugar surfactant is a fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (II),

R ² CO-N R ³ - [Z] (II)

in which R CO stands for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798 and international patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (III):

R ² CO-N R ³ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH (IH)

Glucamides of the formula (LT) in which R ^{3 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ² CO are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides the acyl residue of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (HI) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C _12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred. The polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The sugar surfactant is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-5% by weight are particularly preferred.

The second mandatory component of the active ingredient combination according to the invention are fatty acid partial glycerides. These fatty acid partial glycerides are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. When using technical products, small quantities of triglycerides may still be present due to the manufacturing process. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (TV)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ⁴

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ⁵ (IV)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ⁶

in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents one Acyl radical and at least one of these groups represents hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) represents 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. R ⁴ preferably represents an acyl radical and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represents} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, pahnitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid , Elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.

The fatty acid partial glyceride is preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, in particular 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total agent.

The teaching according to the invention also includes embodiments in which the active ingredient combination contains several sugar surfactants and / or several fatty acid partial glycerides.

In a first embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, a solid peroxo compound is contained as the mandatory coloring component (Cl). The selection of this peroxo compound is in principle not subject to any restrictions; Typical peroxo compounds known to the person skilled in the art are, for example, ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxydisulfate, sodium peroxydisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxydiphosphate, percarbonates such as magnesium percarbonate, peroxides such as barium peroxide as well as perborates, urea peroxide and melamine peroxide. Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. The peroxydisulfates are particularly preferred, in particular combinations of at least two peroxydisulfates.

The peroxo compounds are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 20-80% by weight, in particular in amounts of 40-70% by weight.

A second embodiment of the teaching according to the invention contains direct dyes as the mandatory coloring component (C2). Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable direct dyes are those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis- (ß- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2 '-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-l, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2- Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Directly occurring dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten tree bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.

With regard to the direct dyes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, reference is also expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7 (pages 248-250; direct dyes) as volume 7 of the “Dermatology” series (publ. Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, as well as the "European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials", published by the European Community, available in diskette form from the Federal Association of German Industrial and Commercial Enterprises for medicines, health products and body care products eV, Mannheim.

The substantive dyes are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

The teaching according to the invention naturally also includes designs in which both solid peroxo compounds (Cl) and direct dyes (C2) are contained are. These can be bleaching agents, for example, which contain direct dyes for shading the blond tone.

Color-changing agents, especially if the color change is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide and or solid peroxo compounds, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, i.e. H. adjusted to pH values in the range from about 2 to 11. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, silicates, in particular metasilicates, and also alkali phosphates, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine as well as alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, -hydroxycarbonates and -metasilicates. Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are particularly preferred in this group. The use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.

In a preferred embodiment, at least two different alkalizing agents can be contained in the preparations according to the invention. Mixtures of a silicate and a hydroxy carbonate may be preferred.

The bleaching agents according to the invention preferably contain alkalizing agents in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, in particular 1-25% by weight.

If the color change takes place in the course of an oxidative process, customary oxidizing agents, such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or its adducts with urea, melamine or sodium borate, can be used. It is also possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for producing oxidizing per compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of oxidizing agents present, or also enzymes are used which transfer electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

The preparation of the oxidizing agent is then expediently mixed with the preparation with the direct dyes immediately before use. The resulting ready-to-use preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 4 to 11. It is particularly preferred to use the color-changing agents in a weakly alkaline environment. The application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After an exposure time of approximately 5 to 45, in particular 15 to 30, minutes, the color-changing agent is removed by rinsing off the hair to be changed in color. There is no need to rinse with a shampoo if a strong surfactant carrier has been used.

Furthermore, the formation of the color change can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ are particularly suitable. In principle, the metal ions can be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, the formation of the color change can be accelerated and the color shade can be influenced in a targeted manner.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the active ingredient (W) according to the invention can be further increased by fatty substances (D). Fats are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic Waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

Linear and or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids (DI). Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleinsäure, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.

The amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.

The fatty alcohols (D2) which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃ o-, preferably o-C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂ - carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list being exemplary and should not have a limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also suitable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , for example Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® , for example Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^® , for example Lorol ^® C8, Lorol ^® C14, Lorol ^® C18, Lorol ^® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^® , Crodacol ^® , e.g. Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^® , Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or to buy Isocarb ^® 24. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.

Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walnut, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes (D3). Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. The amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1

- 20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:

- vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the like liquid portions of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n -Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentene-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, pahnitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, elaoleic acid, linoleic acid, elaoleolic acid, Behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaololyl alcohol, elaolyl alcohol, elaolyl alcohol Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol triesters caprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl oleates (Cetiol ^® ), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V ).

- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 -ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

The amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight. -%.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5

35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

The combination of the active ingredient (W) with surfactants (E) has also proven to be advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention contain surfactants. The term surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which are both bear negative as well as a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.

All anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-3926 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (El-I),

O

II

R ^ OCHzCH ^ _n - O - p - OR ² (El-I)

OX

in R ¹ preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical with 8 to 30

Carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen, a radical (C ^ C ^ O ^ R ¹ or X, n for

Numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or

NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another representing hydrogen or a Cl to C4 hydrocarbon radical, is sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1 -II)

R ⁷ CO (AlkO) "SO ₃ M (EI-IT) in R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 C atoms, alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (EI-III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸ I CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z - SO ₃ X (El -IH)

in which R ⁸ CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates which are suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulas with sulfuric acid trioxide with sulfuric acid trioxide or their sulfuric acid adducts with sodium sulfate trichloride. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (El-in) are preferably used, in which R CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE- Al 42 04 700 or from AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),

Amidether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044,

- condensation products from C ₈ - C ₃ o - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, such as, for example, the Lamepon ^® types, Gluadin ^® types, Hostapon ^® KCG or the Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycer disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one in the molecule carry a -COO ^(_) - or -SO ^"5 group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl- N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylamino-ethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal ones Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-

Alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such connections are, for example

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide end-capped with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 C- Atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

C ₁₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

- polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

- alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I)

in the R ^! CO represents a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R represents hydrogen or methyl, R represents linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as, for example, the polysorbates,

- sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

- adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

The alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These connections are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide are reacted using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. In contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention , Cationic surfactants (E5) of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines can also be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammomumchloride, dialkyldimethylammomumchloride and trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, eg cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammomumchloride, distearyldimethylammomum chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride and lauryldimethylammonium chloride, nium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dimethyl oxypropyldialylamine. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ^® , Dehyquart ^® and Armocare ^® . The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

The alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred. Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof can be preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the action of the active compound combination (W) according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

- Adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group, -C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular with glycerol,

- Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms, - sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and which are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

- phospholipids. These include primarily the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

- polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

- Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total composition.

The compositions according to the invention can preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 5 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Smttgart, New, in Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz) York, (1997), page 1764. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 5-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.

It has also proven to be advantageous that polymers (G) can support the action of the active compound mixture (W) according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, polymers are therefore added to the compositions used according to the invention, with both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven to be effective. Cationic polymers (G1) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" means those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups Polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a Cl-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (Gl-I),

R ¹

- [CH ₂ -C-] "X ^" (Gl-I)

I CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴

in which R ^{1 =} -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from Cl-4-alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (Eq-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, those are according to the invention preferred, for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ stands for a methyl group R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ stand for methyl groups m has the value 2.

As physiologically compatible counterions X ^" come, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate , Tartrate and acetations into consideration. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (memacryloyloxyemyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ether of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene -polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (Gl-I) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C _1-4 alkyl acrylate and C _M alkyl alkyl ester as nonionogenic monomer units. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers can also be crosslinked. An inventively preferred copolymer is the crosslinked acrylamide-Memacryloyloxyethyltrimemylammom ^'monium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® . The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,

cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

(S)

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat 50,

cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia ^® Guar and Jaguar ^® ,

- polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized Trimethylsilylamo- dimethicone), Dow Coming ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modi fied silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone ), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80),

- Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

- Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, vinylpyπ'olidone-dimemylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

- And the known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain. Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Likewise usable according to the invention are the copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, as are available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are.

Other cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^®. CMF, Hydagen ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are commercially available.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. The protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Such cationic ones are preferred Protein hydrolysates, the underlying protein portion of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-cUoro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^ft Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HC1, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Ca be, hydroxypropyltrimomum hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, hydroxyproypltrimonium hydrolyzed silk, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydroxypropyltrimonoxydehydroxide, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzate Hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloxysilicate, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzedumum Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimomum Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimomum Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedium Vegetable Protein, Colleate Methyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active compound combination (W) according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Aionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

Particularly preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, for example, under the name Rheothik ^®! 1-80 is commercially available. In this embodiment, it may be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the crosslinking agents used preferably being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Cι ₃ -Cι ₄ -isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7), has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.

The sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Also preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. A networked with 1,9-decadiene Maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is commercially available under the name Stabileze QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the effect of the active ingredient combination (W) according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule ^' - or -SO ₃ ^" groups, and summarized such polymers that contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of ethyl methacrylate tert-butylamino, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2 104 091, European Patent Application 47 714, European Patent Application 217 274, European Patent Application 283 817 and German Patent Application 28 17 369.

Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another

(a) Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C "H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^Θ (G3- I) in which R and R independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and

A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-JT) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

According to the invention, these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers, reference is expressly made to the content of German laid-open specification 39 29 973. Those polymers in which monomers of type (a) are used, in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{w is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion, are very particularly preferred ; Acrylamido-propyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.

In a further embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpvrrolidon / Vinylester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropylcellulose, as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON).

- Shellac

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as for example polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxy groups. - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B1.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.

The polymers (G) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H) may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates is also understood to mean total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids. According to the invention, polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are furthermore to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. According to the invention, protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana), CoUapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Kerasol ^® (Croda) sold.

According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), Hydrolupin ^® (Croda), Hydrosesame ^® (Croda), Hydrotritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

The protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the active ingredient combination (W) can be increased by UV filters (I). The structure and physical properties of the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, their absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl-salicylate (homosalates ), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb ^® MET, Neo Helioρan ^® BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan ^® Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-l-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and their salts, l- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789, Eusolex ^® 9020), α- (2-oxobom-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2- ethylhexyl ester (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid -2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX , Escalol ^® 557, Neo Helioρan ^® AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb ^® S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) - D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p -carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi) - 1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxobom -3-ylidenmethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), l, -diphenylacrylonitrile acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-Aminoben- menthyl zoate (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Heliopan ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-2; UvinuI ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'- dimethoxy-benzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid-2'-ethylhexyl ester. 4-Amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimemyl-4- (2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone are preferred , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3, 3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo- [2.2. 1] hept-l-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, l- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione, α- (2- Oxobom-3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamate -2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2 , 4,6-tri-anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-oxi) -l, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N- { (2 and 4) - [2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. According to the invention, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) are very particularly preferred -propane- 1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and 3 - (4 '-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preferred UV filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it was found that in structurally similar UV filters, the water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity compared to those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. Within the scope of the invention, water-insoluble are UV filters which do not dissolve in water at more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature. be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays. In principle, this group can be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function. is replaced. Connections from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example

- substituted benzophenones,

p-aminobenzoic acid ester,

- diphenylacrylic acid esters,

- cinnamic acid esters,

- salicylic acid esters,

- benzimidazoles and

o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - and in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the structural part U, also depending on the structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. In principle, this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) χ-N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^" , in which x stands for an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another stand for d. -Alkylgruppen, R stands for a Cι _-22 - alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^" for a physiologically acceptable anion. Within the framework of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each for a methyl group and R ³ either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18 , Carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyl-tximethylammonium chloride (Incrocat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl-dimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-dimethylammonium tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610), which are available as commercial products.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In this embodiment, the combination tion of at least one water-insoluble UN filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.

The effect of the active compound combination (W) according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen is one to three

to C alkyl groups. The sodium salt is very particularly preferred. The amounts used in the agents according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.

The combination of the active ingredient combination (W) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.

The group of substances designated as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. According to the invention, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

- Vitamin B _\ (thiamine)

- Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

- Vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The compounds of the vitamin Bs type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.

- Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-f] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the trivial name biotin has now become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Finally, the effect of the active ingredient mixture (W) can also be increased by the combined use with plant extracts (L).

These extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guide to the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent (TKW), Frankfurt.

According to the invention, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, white dome, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, mallow, meadow foam, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, hake, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

The extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, are particularly preferred. Rosemary, birch, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, harrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

The extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.

Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention.

In addition, it can prove to be advantageous if, in addition to the active substance mixture (W) according to the invention, penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are present. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the sense of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can additionally support the color performance of the active substance combination (W). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preferred are saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, very particularly preferred are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids in the sense of the invention can have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. For the purposes of the invention, preference is given to carboxylic acids with several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups can be present in whole or in part as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention can of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, C1-C8-alkyl, C2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C2-C8 aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, arnino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C1-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyl, amino and carboxy groups. Substituents in the α position are particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino gmppen, where the amino function can optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, propelic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid - acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoyl acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, bicarboxylic acid, Dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-

Carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentane tricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazole carboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of is formed by compounds of the general formula (NI),

in the Z stands for a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n for a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y for a COOH group and the other for hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids which formally form from the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) by the addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring. Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) are known in the literature. A manufacturing process can be found, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,753,968.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. A polyunsaturated fatty acid will usually be used as the dicarboxylic acid component. The linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred. As the monocarboxylic acid component, in particular acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid preferred. Diels-Alder reactions usually produce mixtures of isomers in which one component is present in excess. According to the invention, these isomer mixtures can be used just like the pure compounds.

In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water can also be used according to the invention to form the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results from the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-l-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids themselves according to the invention, which have been exemplified above, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application are also to be understood as the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, ethyl- and -hydroxyethylammonium salts. Within the scope of the invention, however, it is very particularly preferred to use alkaline reacting amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids are used. For formulation reasons, it may furthermore be preferred to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and in this case in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxydi, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with the active ingredient combination (W). It has been shown here that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 carbon atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxy polycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.

Furthermore, it has proven to be beneficial in the context of the invention if polyhydroxy compounds (O) are used together with the active substance combination (W) according to the invention. Polyhydroxy compounds in the sense of the invention are understood to mean all substances which meet the definition in Römpp's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxy groups. For the purposes of the present invention, this includes in particular: Polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, such as trimethylolpropane,

- carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugar and their salts,

- In particular monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, as well as protected by customary -OH - and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or Acyl groups as well as in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

- aminodeoxy sugar, deoxy sugar, thio sugar, these also in the form of

Aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, as well as protected by usual and in the

Literature known -OH - and -NH - protecting groups, such as the

Triflate groups, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups and also in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

Among these, very particularly preferred are monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH - and -NH - protecting groups, such as the

Triflatgmppe, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well as in the form of

Methyl ether and as a phosphate ester,

Furthermore, very particularly preferred are oligosaccharides with up to 50 monomer units, these also being in the form of aldoses, ketoses and or or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protective groups known in the literature, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or Acyl groups as well as in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters can be present.

Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, Gulose, Idose, Talose, Fmctose, Sorbose, Psicose, Tegatose, Deoxyribose, Glucosamine, Galactosamin, Rhamnose, Digitoxose, Thioglucose, Saccharose, Lactose, Trehalose, Maltose, Cellobiose, Melibiose, Gestiobiose, Rutinoseriaffin. Furthermore, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature, such as Beyer-Walter, Textbook of Organic Chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section in, pages 393 and the following.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as ice-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers.

The polyols (O) are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight .% contain up to 10% by weight.

To shade the color-changing agents, in addition to the active ingredient combination (W), the following can also be used as the dye (preliminary product):

• Developer and coupler type oxidation dye precursors and

• Precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups are used.

Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heteroeyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine are usually used as oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4 -Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis- (4- aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) methyl) phenol, bis- (2-hydroxy -5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) -2-propanol, 4-amino -2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) - 1, 4.7, 10- tetiaoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 such as e.g. B. 4,5-diamino-l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetiaammopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used as oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy -4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-

Trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3 - (Diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5-

(methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, l , 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, l-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane , 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -l-methylbenzene and l-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-l-methylbenzene,

Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6 -Dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2.6 Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxydaphynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,

Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzomorpholine,

Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1, 2,3, 4-tetiahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,

Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, l-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, l-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,

Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors to be uniform compounds. Rather, the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, may contain minor components in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, must be excluded.

With regard to the oxidation dye precursors which can be used in the color-changing agents according to the invention, reference is also expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors), published as Volume 7 of the "Dermatology" series (Ed .: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, and the "European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials", published by the European Community, available in disk form from the Federal Association of German Industry and Commerce for Medicines, Reformed Products and Personal Care Products, Mannheim.

For example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically tolerable salts are used as precursors to nature-analogous dyes. Those indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups can carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group. 5,6-Dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline as well as 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Of particular note within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially that 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5 6-dihydroxyindole.

The indoline and indole derivatives in the color-changing agents used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for. B. the hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides, are used.

When using dye precursors of the indoline or indole type, it may be preferred to combine them with at least one amino acid and / or at least one Use oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular α-amino carboxylic acids and ω-amino carboxylic acids. Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the α-aminocarboxylic acids. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, in particular in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.

In addition to the active ingredient mixture (W) which is mandatory according to the invention and the further preferred components mentioned above, these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,

- Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol,

hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

- perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,

- Symmetrical and asymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as Di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether, Fatty alcohols, especially linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- monoesters from C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols with 6 to 24 C atoms,

active ingredients that improve fiber structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fmctose, fructose and lactose,

- conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil as well

Phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,

- Quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylanridoethyl-2-allcylinύdazolinium methosulfate,

- defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for coloring the agent,

- anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol,

- active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

- cholesterol,

- consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

- fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

- fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

- opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,

- pigments,

- Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cytamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

- antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. B. referred to the above monograph by Kh. Schrader. The color-changing agents according to the invention preferably contain the active ingredient combination according to the invention in the composition of the respective bleaching or coloring agents and are used with them directly in the bleaching or dyeing process on the hair.

The term bleaching or dyeing process encompasses all processes known to the person skilled in the art in which a color-changing agent is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or rinsed out with a surfactant or left entirely on the hair. In this context, it is expressly referred to the known monographs, e.g. B. Kh. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referring to the corresponding knowledge of the expert.

There are no fundamental restrictions with regard to the manner in which the active ingredient combination according to the invention is applied to the keratin fiber, in particular human hair, in order to increase the color performance. The formulations of these preparations include, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions based on the teaching of phase inversion, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Suitable aerosols and foam aerosols. The pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 5 and 11, values from 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH. Food acids are usually used as acids. Edible acids are understood to mean those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. A second subject of the invention are agents for intensifying the lightening of bleached fibers, in particular keratin fibers, which are a combination of

- a sugar surfactant (A),

- a fatty acid partial glyceride (B) and

- Contain a solid peroxo compound (C 1).

With regard to further components of these agents, reference is made to what has been said above.

A third subject of the invention are agents for intensifying the dyeing of fibers, in particular keratin fibers, which can be achieved with direct dyes, which are a combination of

- a sugar surfactant (A),

- a fatty acid partial glyceride (B) and

- Contain a direct dye (C2).

Finally, a fourth object of the invention is a method for increasing the color performance of a color-changing agent and / or the structural strengthening of fibers treated with this agent, in particular keratin fibers, in which an agent containing an active ingredient combination as used in one of claims 1 to 16 is used. is applied to the fibers and rinsed out again after a contact time of 5 to 45 minutes.

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight.

1. Proof of effectiveness

a) Evidence of color performance (brightening):

The cream bases of the compositions listed in the following table were prepared using conventional methods. The ingredients were mixed together in succession with heating and homogenization and chilled.

The bleaching was carried out in a mixture of the formulations from Table 1 designated with Cream 1 and Cream 2 in a ratio of 5: 4 with a 12% hydrogen peroxide dispersion and 1.1 g of solid ammonium peroxodisulfate. The contact time on the hair of the Fa. Klugmann 6622D, type "Medium Blonde", was at 25 ° C After completion of Blondierprozesses 30 minutes. Was the hair is rinsed with an aqueous solution consisting of 1.0 wt.% Texapon ^® NSO , pH 6-7, and then dried Each strand of hair was measured at eight points using a color measurement system from Datacolor, and the sample to be measured was fixed in a clamping device on the spectrophotometer, the reflectance values over the range of visible light from 390 - 700 nm measured at a distance of 10 nm and processed by a computer The computer program determined the standard color values according to the CIE system in accordance with DIN 5033. The value L * is the relative brightness of the strand of hair before and after treatment with the respective composition. The larger this value, the more the hair was lightened. The Zusa marked with "V" was used as standard mmensetzung. The values of the four mixtures A to D can be found in Table 2. b) Evidence of the hair structuring effect using HP-DSC:

The strands were immersed at a temperature of 23 ° C. for 10 minutes in a 1% aqueous solution of the respective active ingredients at a pH of 3, which was adjusted with sodium hydroxide solution or hydrochloric acid. Each strand of hair was then rinsed with clear water for 1 minute, dried and left to stand for 16 hours.

The following melting points K _D shown in Table 2 were determined by means of a DSC analysis (Perkin Elmer DSC-7). A precise description of the method can be found, for example, in DE 196 173 95 AI

Table 1:

Table 2: Results

All values are the results of a triple determination. As can be clearly seen from the values, the brightening performance of the formulations with the active ingredient combination according to the invention is significantly increased. At the same time, the structure of the strands of hair is significantly strengthened.

Claims

claims

1. Use of an active ingredient combination (W) consisting of: a) at least one sugar surfactant (A) selected from the group formed by alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides (AI) and fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides (A2), b) at least one fatty acid partial glyceride (B) and c) at least one color-changing component (C), selected from the group of solid peroxo compounds (Cl) and / or the group of direct dyes (C2) for increasing the color performance of color-changing agents and or structural strengthening the fibers treated with these agents, in particular keratin fibers.

2. Use according to Anspmch 1, characterized in that the agent containing the active ingredient combination (W) additionally contains a polymer.

3. Use according to claims 2, characterized in that the polymer is a cationic or amphoteric polymer.

4. Use according to Anspmch 3, characterized in that the cationic polymer is selected from homopolymers of the general formula (I),

R ⁸

- [CH ₂ -C-] _n X- (I)

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _t -NR ^ R ¹¹ in which R ⁸ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ and R ^{11 are} independently selected from C - alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (I) and nonionic monomer units.

5. Use according spoke 3, characterized in that the cationic polymers are selected from the group consisting of

- cationized cellulose derivatives,

- cationized guar derivatives,

- cationized honey and

- Cationic alkyl polyglycosides is formed.

6. Use according spoke 2, characterized in that the polymer is an anionic polymer.

7. Use according spoke 6, characterized in that the anionic polymer has carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.

8. Use according spoke 7, characterized in that the anionic polymer contains 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as a monomer, wherein the sulfonic acid group can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammomum salt.

9. Use according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the anionic polymer is a copolymer of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.

10. Use according spoke 9, characterized in that the anionic polymer is a copolymer which consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group entirely or partly as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

11. Use according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the agent containing the active ingredient combination (W) further contains a protein hydrolyzate or a derivative of a protein hydrolyzate.

12. Use according spoke 11, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate or derivative of the protein hydrolyzate is of vegetable origin.

13. Use according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the agent containing the active ingredient combination (W) further contains a surfactant.

14. Use according to Anprach 13, characterized in that the surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

15. Use according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the agent containing the active ingredient combination (W) further contains a vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor or a derivative thereof.

16. Use according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the agent containing the active ingredient combination (W) further contains a plant extract.

17. Means for intensifying the lightening of bleached fibers, in particular keratin fibers, which are a combination of

- a sugar surfactant (A),

- a fatty acid partial glyceride (B) and

- Contain a solid peroxo compound (C 1).

18. Means for intensifying the dyeing of fibers, in particular keratin fibers, which can be achieved with direct dyes, which are a combination of

- a sugar surfactant (A),

- a fatty acid partial glyceride (B) and

- Contain a direct dye (C2).

19. A method for increasing the color performance of a color-changing agent and / or the structural strengthening of fibers treated with this agent, in particular keratin fibers, in which an agent containing an active ingredient combination as used in one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to the fibers and after an exposure time of 5 to 45 minutes.