Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
  • A45D2/12—Hair winders or hair curlers for use parallel to the scalp, i.e. flat-curlers
  • A45D2/127—Hair winders or hair curlers for use parallel to the scalp, i.e. flat-curlers with a wrapping strip, e.g. flexible
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
  • A45D7/04—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a method of hair shaping, whereby for the winding of the hair on curlers a curler in form of a sheet is used, which serves also as an end-wrap, and whereby the sheet is provided at least partially with at least one superabsorbent polymer in non-swollen form.
• winding bodies are required besides the use of a reducing agent and oxidizing agent.
• a method of shaping hair whereby a end-wrap containing a superabsorbent polymer and a winding body are used, is disclosed in EP 1 302 124 A .
• the hair is rolled up along its longitudinal axis from the ends of the hair to the roots close to the scalp.
• the curlers used conventionally in the hairdresser salon have some disadvantages: They display a rigid shape and because of this, when the hair relaxes by the effect of the reducing agent, the tension on the hair is either reduced or completely lost. On the other hand it is well known that the duration and elasticity of the curl can be improved by keeping the hair under tension during the reshaping process.
• Another goal of the invention is to provide a method which allows to keep tension on the hair during the whole duration of waving process.
• the hair structure should be less damaged, and the lengths and ends should, despite tighter windings, be given a comparable wave radius to the roots close to the scalp.
• the inventors have surprisingly found that the tension on the hair wound on the curlers can be automatically increased during the hair waving process and all other disadvantages discussed above are avoided, when a method according to the invention is used.
• Either a non-permanent or a permanent shaping composition may be used for carrying out the method of the invention.
• a non-permanent shaping composition it may be applied in addition to step (iv) of the method also before step (i), whereby the majority, preferably more than 2/3 of the non-permanent shaping composition, is applied to the hair in step (iv).
• the non-permanent shaping composition preferably comprises 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, of a hair fixing polymer, e. g.
• PVP/VA copolymer native zein; a homopolymer of acrylic acid, crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythriol; CTFA: OCTYLACRYLAMIDE/ACRYLATES /BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (Amphomer ® of National Starch); vinylpyrrolidone/styrene-copolymer; CTFA: QUATERNIUM-79 HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN; and vinylpyrrolidone/vinylacetate-copolymer.
• the amout of solvent, selected from water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and the mixture thereof, in the non-permanent shaping composition is from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably 70% by weight to 95% by weight of the composition.
• a curling-sheet besides its actual function, namely that as a curler, serves as end-wrap and as carrier for the superabsorbent polymer and ensures targeted effectiveness, particularly at the hair ends.
• the superabsorbent polymer is present in non-swollen form, it is thus virtually anhydrous and is not in the form of a gel.
• the curling-sheet either consist of a superabsorbent polymer in non-swollen form or of any other foil material known per se for this purpose as carrier, whereby paper, fabric, felt, nonwoven or plastic being preferred, and this other foil material is provided at least partially with at least one superabsorbent polymer in non-swollen form.
• End-foils for permanent waving are known per se; usually, ends-papers made of wet-strength paper, e.g. long-fibre paper, tissue paper or Japan paper, are used. Instead of paper, it is also possible to use alternative materials such as, for example, nonwoven material or nonwoven fabric, cotton fabric, fabric mixtures of synthetic fibres with natural fibres and other absorbent materials, or else polymer films. Further suitable natural or synthetic materials are polyester, acetate, cotton, nylon, orlon, silk, polypropylene, viscose, wool, polyamide and polyethylene. In case the curling-sheet does not consist of a superabsorbent polymer, than the sheet material is provided at least partially with at least one superabsorbent polymer in non-swollen form.
• the superabsorbent polymers are known through their use as absorbents for liquids, for example in nappies. These are polymers or hydrophilic copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or graft copolymers of starch and acrylic acid, where the polymers may be present in neutralized or partially neutralized form as salts. They are formed by polymerization with partial crosslinking with suitable crosslinkers of ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or alkali metal salts thereof. Such polymers and their preparation are described widely; for example, reference is made to EP-A 0 312 952 , DE-A 44 18 818 and EP-A 0 441 507 . US-A 5121762 describes a water-soluble or water-swelling ends-foil made of superabsorbent polymer (Fiebersorb ® SAF), on which an ammonium thioglycolate resin solution is dispersed.
• superabsorbent polymer
• the superabsorbent polymers are characterized by their large water absorption capacity and their large water retention capacity. They are commercially available in powder or granule form. Suitable superabsorbent polymers are, for example, AQUA-KEEP ® D (Elf Atochem S.A.), Sanwet ® IM 7015 (BASF AG), Sanwet ® 3746-5 (BASF AG), Hysorb ® E1290-00 (BASF AG) or Hysorb ® E 1291-00 (BASF AG).
• the average particle size of the dry polymers is preferably 5 to 850 ⁇ m. However, particular preference is given to relatively small particle sizes of 200 ⁇ m or below.
• the absorption capacity for demineralized water measured in accordance with the method "Centrifuge Retention Capacity Determination for Superabsorbent Samples” Edna Doc. 87/RS7/037; Absorbency II 441. 1-99, is preferably at least 20 g/g.
• the preparation of the curling-sheet with the superabsorbent polymer is described here by way of representation for all suitable materials, such as, for example, a paper, a fabric, a nonwoven or a foil, using the example of the curling-sheet.
• the curling-sheet can be supplied in different ways with the superabsorbent polymer.
• One way is the homogeneous application of finely distributed polymer particles to the surface of the curling-sheet.
• An alternative preparation variant consists in integrating the superabsorbent polymer into the paper matrix of the paper without coating the surface.
• the curling-sheet according to the invention can be produced, for example, by applying the pulverulent superabsorbent polymer to the surface of the sheet in a manner known per se for pulverulent substances (e.g. spray application, roller application method "gravure coating").
• the production can be carried out by firstly washing and drying the surface of the carrier (sheet).
• the pulverulent superabsorbent polymer is then suspended in a nonaqueous liquid, in particular an alcohol.
• the carrier is then immersed into the stirred suspension on one or more sides.
• the well-wetted carrier sheet is then removed from the suspension.
• the curling sheet (carrier + superabsorbent polymer) is dried.
• Another production option consists in applying superabsorbent and also non-superabsorbent polymers (e.g. crosslinked or crosslinkable homopolymers or copolymers) to the carrier material (paper, nonwoven, foil, fabric etc.) and only subsequently crosslinking the polymers with suitable crosslinkers (e.g. glyoxal, etc.) on the carrier surface.
• superabsorbent and also non-superabsorbent polymers e.g. crosslinked or crosslinkable homopolymers or copolymers
• suitable crosslinkers e.g. glyoxal, etc.
• Production may also take place by firstly washing the surface of the carrier sheet, e.g. made of fabric, with water and then uniformly applying 10 to 20 g of pulverulent superabsorbent polymer to the surface on the wet carrier sheet. Finally, the curling sheet (carrier + superabsorbent polymer) is dried on a glass plate overnight at 40 to 100°C, preferably 60 to 80°C, in a drying cabinet and, if appropriate, rolled smooth.
• carrier sheet e.g. made of fabric
• the curling sheet carrier + superabsorbent polymer
• Another production variant consists of a sandwich-like combination in which the superabsorbent polymer is embedded between two foil layers, in particular two paper layers (this last variant refers specifically to the use of paper as carrier material).
• adhesion of the superabsorbent polymer to the surface or within the paper matrix of the curling sheet takes place with the help of thickeners or gel formers.
• suitable thickeners for this purpose are, for example, carboxyvinyl polymers, in particular polyacrylates, such as, for example, the various carbopol grades, also polyglycols, cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and alginates and carrageenan.
• nonionic cellulose ethers such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, e.g. Culminal (nonionic cellulose ether, Aqualon), Viscotran (methylcellulose, Aqualon) or Aquacoat ECD (ethylcellulose, FMC Corporation).
• thickeners or gel formers are expediently processed in the form of the aqueous gels.
• the use concentration of these materials for producing the gels is 0.1 to 10% by weight.
• the aqueously swollen gel is applied to the ends-foil or the ends-paper preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 20 mg per square centimetre area of the ends-foil or ends-paper.
• the preferably pulverulent superabsorbent polymer is then applied to the surface of the ends-foil or ends-paper, or it is integrated into the paper matrix, in an amount of from 0.05 to 500 mg per square centimetre area of the ends-foil or ends-paper, preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 50 mg per square centimetre area of the ends-foil or ends-paper, particularly preferably in an amount of from 0.3 to 10 mg per square centimetre area of the ends-foil or ends-paper.
• Pretreatment with the gel causes the particles of the superabsorbent polymer to stick to the surface and/or in the paper matrix of the curling sheet and gives rise to a durable bond which withstands the mechanical stresses of application.
• the curling sheet can of course, together with the superabsorbent polymer, comprise all additives which are known and customary for hair-treatment compositions.
• these are, for example, wetting agents or emulsifiers from the classes of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surface-active surfactants, such as ethoxylated or nonethoxylated fatty alcohol sulphates, alkylbenzenesulphonates, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, alkylbetaines; humectants, such as, for example, 1,2-pentanediol, perfume oils; opacifiers, such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate; pearlizing agents, such as, for example, a mixture of fatty acid monoalkylolamide and ethylene glycol distearate; bactericidal and fungicidal active ingredients, such as, for example, 2,4,4-trichloro-2-hydroxydiphenyl ether or methylch
• citric trialkyl esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tricapryl citrate, tri-C 12-13 -alkyl citrate and tri-C 14-15 -alkyl citrate, and perfume oils; photoprotective agents, oxidizing agents, antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, antidandruff active ingredients; fatty alcohols, shine-imparting agents, vitamins, betaine
• the abovementioned additives are used in the amounts customary for such purposes.
• the weight percentages given below refer to the amount of superabsorbent polymer.
• the surface-active substances, the conditioning constituents such as combability-improving substances and the care substances are in each case used in an amount of from 0.1 to 20 per cent by weight, the UV absorbers in concentrations of in total 0.1 to 5 per cent by weight, the perfume oils, anti-grease active ingredients, plant extracts, vitamins and vitamin derivatives, pH stabilizers, antidandruff active ingredients, and the bactericidal or fungicidal substances in an amount of in total 0.1 to 10 per cent by weight and the preservatives and dyes in an amount of in each case 0.01 to 5 per cent by weight.
• the permanent shaping agents that can be used in the process described herein are those that are based on typical hair keratin-reducing materials such as, for example, salts of sulfuric acid or certain mercapto compounds, particularly salts or esters of mercapto carboxylic acids.
• the permanent shaping composition contains the keratin-reducing compounds in the quantities typical for restructuring, for example, the ammonium salts of mercaptoacetic acid or thiolactic acid or cysteine, in a concentration of from 6 to 12 percent by weight.
• the pH value of the alkaline permanent shaping composition is generally 7 to 10, wherein the pH is preferably set with ammonia, monoethanolamine, ammonium carbonate, or ammonium hydrogen carbonate.
• esters of mercapto carboxylic acids are used such as, for example, monothioglycol acid glycol esters or -glycerin esters, with mercapto acetamides or 2-mercaptopropionic acid amides being preferred, in a concentration of from 2 to 14 percent by weight; or the salts of the sulfuric acid, for example, sodium, ammonium, or monoethanol ammonium sulfite, in a concentration of from 3 to 8 percent by weight (calculated as SO 2 ).
• the hair keratin-reducing compound used be the salt or the derivative of a mercapto carboxylic acid. It is especially preferred that the keratin-reducing compound be selected from mercaptoacetic acid, cysteine, and thiolactic acid, or salts thereof.
• bulking and penetration agents for example, urea, polyvalent alcohols, ether, melamine, alkali or ammonium thiocyanate, isopropanol, imidazolidine-2-on, 2-pyrrolidone, and 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone can be added to the permanent shaping composition in a concentration of about 0.5 to 50 percent by weight, or preferably 2 to 30 percent by weight.
• the permanent shaping composition also contains the disulfide of a hair keratin-reducing compound (thiol), particularly dithioglycolate.
• the preferred quantity for use is 2 to 20 wt%, or preferably 3 to 10 wt%, wherein the ratio between the hair keratin-reducing compound and the disulfide is preferably 2 : 1 to 1 : 2, or particularly 2 : 1 to 1 : 1.
• the amout of water in the permanent shaping composition is from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably 70% by weight to 95% by weight, of the composition.
• the hair is, if necessary, rinsed with water, and then fixed with an oxidative agent.
• the fixing composition is used in a quantity of about 50 to 200 g (1.76 to 7.05 oz) depending on hair thickness.
• Any oxidizing agent that has been used before in fixing agents can be used for the fixation.
• oxidizing agent are potassium bromate, sodium bromate, sodium perborate, dehydroascorbic acid, hydrogen peroxide, and urea peroxide.
• the concentration of the oxidizing agent varies depending on application time (normally 1 to 40 minutes, or preferably 5 to 20 minutes) and application temperature (25 to 50° C (77 °F to 122 °F)). Normally, oxidizing agents are used in a concentration of about 0.5 to 12.0% by weight in the aqueous fixing agents.
• the fixing agents can obviously contain other materials, for example, weak acids or peroxide stabilizers.
• the shaping composition used with the method according to the present invention and the fixing agent can be present in the form of an aqueous solution or an emulsion, as well as in a thickened form on an aqueous basis, particularly as a cream, gel, or paste.
• the fixation be in low viscosity liquid form.
• the fixing agent be an oxidation agent-containing, liquid preparation with a viscosity of from 1 to 100 mPa • s at 25 degrees Celsius (77 °F), wherein viscosity of from 1 to 10 mPa • s at 25 degrees Celsius (77 °F) is especially preferred.
• the viscosity values are based on measurements with a Haake rotational viscometer, type VT 501, at a shear speed of 64.5 per second.
• a non-woven fleece Sawaloom 06615SO16 needle punched nonwoven including 50% of the super-absorbent fibre PP/30% CV/20% SAP 180g/m 2 , having a thickness of 3 mm, is cut into a sheet with the dimensions length 120 mm and width 70 mm. This curling sheet is folded along the longitudinal axis around the hair tips in the way as with an end wrap.
• the hair is wound up by hand or by the aid of a clip without the use of curlers, just using and the curling sheet as the curler.
• the curl is fixed with a clip, e.g. Wella Creative Shaper ® .
• a conventional permanent waving composition of the formula below is evenly distributed onto the rolled hair.
• the curling sheet which serves as a as the curler, is swelling by absorption of the aqueous liquid and produces tension on the hair wound on it.
• the permanent waving composition is left on the hair for 15 min, and a hood-type infrared radiator is used at a temperature of 40 °C.
• the hair is than rinsed with lukewarm water.
• the rolled up hair is then treated with 80 g of the following fixing agent: Liquid fixing agent 4.00 g hydrogen peroxide, 50% aqueous solution 0.10 g salicylic acid 0.20 g disodium hydrogen phosphate 0.15 g o-phosphoric acid 1.00 g castor oil, oxyethylated with 35 mol ethylene oxide 0.10 g vinylpyrrolidone/styrene-copolymer 0.10 g perfume oil balance to 100 g water
• Natural hair of 25 cm length on the left side of the head are wound with commercial paper end-wraps on curlers with 30 mm diameter (Wella Creative Shaper No.23). On the right side the hair was wound on curling sheets of example 1. Than the hair on both sides of the head was treated as disclosed in example 1.
• the hair treated with the curling sheets according to the invention showed a more even curl from the tip to the roots compared to the hair on the left side, treated conventionally. No overcurling at the tips was noticed. The hair on the right side moreover showed a more natural and well-groomed look.
• a non-woven fleece Sawaloom 06615SO16 needle punched nonwoven including 50% of the super-absorbent fibre PP/30% CV/20% SAP 180g/m 2 , having a thickness of 3 mm, is cut into a sheet with the dimensions length 120 mm and width 70 mm. This curling sheet is folded along the longitudinal axis around the hair tips in the way as with an end wrap.
• the curling sheet which serves as the curler, is swelling by absorption of the aqueous-alcoholic liquid and produces tension on the hair wound on it.
• the hair spray composition is left on the hair for 15 min, during which treating period a hood-type infrared radiator is used at a temperature of 40° C. Thereafter the curlers are removed and the hair is combed to a hairstyle.
• the hair shows excellent elasticity and long-lasting wave.
• Conditioning and Setting Lotion 8.00 g PVP/N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid copolymer diethylsulfate (CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-11) 2.50 g CTFA: QUATERNIUM-79 HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 0.50 g cetyl alcohol 0.10 g perfume oil balance to 100 g water
• the curling sheet which serves as the curler, is swelling by absorption of the aqueous liquid and produces tension on the hair wound on it.
• the hair spray composition is left on the hair for 12 min, during which treating period a hood-type infrared radiator is used at a temperature of 42 °C. Thereafter the curlers are removed and the hair is combed to a hairstyle.
• the hair shows excellent elasticity and long-lasting wave.
• Spray Hair Gel 0.30 g homopolymer of acrylic acid, crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythriol (CTFA: CARBOMER) 8.00 g vinylpyrrolidone/vinylacetate-copolymer 2.00 g glycerine 0.12 g triethanolamine 0.10 g polyethylene glycol derivative of the mono and diglycerides of palm kernel oil with an average of 45 moles of ethyleneoxide (CTFA: PEG-45 PALM KERNEL GLYCERIDES) 0.20 g methylparabene 0.10 g perfume oil balance to 100 g water
• the curling sheet which serves as a curler, is swelling by absorption of the aqueous liquid and produces tension on the hair wound on it.
• the hair spray composition is left on the hair for 20 min, during which treating period a hood-type infrared radiator is used at a temperature of 39 °C. Thereafter the curlers are removed and the hair is combed to a hairstyle and dryed.
• the hair shows excellent elasticity and long-lasting wave.

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• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Hair Curling (AREA)
• Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)

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Publications (2)

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• 2006
  • 2006-06-19 AT AT06012480T patent/ATE446693T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2006-06-19 DE DE602006010046T patent/DE602006010046D1/de active Active
  • 2006-06-19 EP EP06012480A patent/EP1869992B1/en not_active Not-in-force
• 2007
  • 2007-06-19 JP JP2009514978A patent/JP2009539543A/ja active Pending
  • 2007-06-19 US US11/820,385 patent/US20080011315A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2007-06-19 MX MX2008016025A patent/MX2008016025A/es not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2007-06-19 WO PCT/IB2007/052356 patent/WO2007148286A2/en active Application Filing
  • 2007-06-19 CN CN2007800229790A patent/CN101472498B/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related

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