EP1850686A2 - Vetement de dessus - Google Patents

Vetement de dessus

Info

Publication number
EP1850686A2
EP1850686A2 EP06707182A EP06707182A EP1850686A2 EP 1850686 A2 EP1850686 A2 EP 1850686A2 EP 06707182 A EP06707182 A EP 06707182A EP 06707182 A EP06707182 A EP 06707182A EP 1850686 A2 EP1850686 A2 EP 1850686A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jacket
lining
outer garment
regions
pants
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP06707182A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Wolfgang Bopp
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Meatex Gestao De Empresas & Comandita
Original Assignee
Meatex Gestao De Empresas & Comandita
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Meatex Gestao De Empresas & Comandita filed Critical Meatex Gestao De Empresas & Comandita
Publication of EP1850686A2 publication Critical patent/EP1850686A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/02—Jackets
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/10—Impermeable to liquids, e.g. waterproof; Liquid-repellent
    • A41D31/102—Waterproof and breathable
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2300/00—Details of garments
    • A41D2300/20—Inserts
    • A41D2300/22—Elastic inserts

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an outer garment, in particular a jacket or trousers, according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • Outerwear usually has an outer fabric and a body lining.
  • the outer fabric is usually made of wool. It is becoming increasingly common to add a stretch component, preferably spandex, Lycra and / or natural stretch in the lower percentage range, to the material of the outer fabric in order to achieve a comfortable fit.
  • the body lining faces the wearer and optionally covers an intermediate lining.
  • the body lining is supple and smooth to avoid sticking the garment to the garment and to facilitate hatching.
  • Modern body linings are wash cloths and wear-resistant blended fabrics viscose / synthetics with good moisture transport or pure synthetics, especially polyester.
  • Washing wafers are lining wicks made of viscose filaments, which were removed by synthetic resin equipment, the crease susceptibility and tendency to shrink to a residual shrinkage of 1%. The ability to transport moisture is reduced.
  • All known for classic outerwear pieces Fats have in common that they have a good slip on underneath worn laundry (eg shirts, blouses) and are inelastic. This has the disadvantage, in particular, in the case of outer clothing pieces having an elastic outer material which has a stretch component, that ' the lining can not participate in the strains arising during the movements of the wearer in exactly the same way as the upper material and therefore acts as a' brake '. This reduces the wearing comfort. Therefore, it was previously in outerwear with an outer fabric that has a stretch of elastane, Lycra or natural stretch, not use the stretching effect properly.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift DE-OS 2 054 783 discloses such a suit.
  • the lining material can also be designed partially elastic there.
  • the elasticity of the lining material can be influenced by the arrangement of certain areas in a total area. To form special areas of the outer garment with elastic lining material is not disclosed. It is also not obvious to the skilled person, because with the elastic material, a "tight cut" should be compensated to achieve a close-fitting silhouette, while maintaining the usual usual freedom of movement.
  • the placement and size of the elastic lining is not specifically defined in this prior art, but only comprehensively detected, ie that exemplary regular patterns of elastic lining material are disclosed that offer no indication of placement and size of the elastic lining and therefore in contrast to
  • the invention can also give no stimulus to form certain areas elastic, in order to make the best possible use of the effectiveness of an elastic insert and to increase the movement comfort for certain movements.
  • U.S. Patent No. 4,141,082 to Nakazawa et al. Discloses a wash suit.
  • the fabrics, including the lining material, have a low shrinkage during washing, so that the suit can maintain its shape during washing.
  • an outerwear item in particular a Sacko or trousers specify, which has a high level of comfort, is easy to put on and conveys the visual impression of a classic outerwear pieces.
  • an outerwear piece in particular a jacket or pants, is specified with an outer fabric which has a stretch component and a lining fabric which is arranged on the side of the outer clothing piece facing the wearer of the outer clothing piece, wherein the lining material is at least partially formed of an elastic and breathable outer material.
  • the lining material may be formed in first regions of a first material and be formed in second regions of a second material which is formed of an elastic and breathable outer material.
  • the invention relates to an outer garment, in particular a jacket or pants, with an outer fabric, which has a stretch component, and a Lining material arranged on the side of the outer garment facing the wearer of the outer garment, wherein the lining material is formed in first regions of a first material and in second regions of a second material which differs from the first material, wherein the second Material is elastic and breathable.
  • the second material may be water vapor permeable and water droplet repellent.
  • the lining material thus has two different materials, which are arranged in different areas and can be optimally adapted to the respective task in these areas.
  • These areas are preferably the shoulder and elbow areas of the outer garment.
  • the stretching effect of the outer fabric can be fully passed, ie the outer garment is almost completely free in activity of the body.
  • the lining material is formed of a common body lining which is pliable and smooth so as to prevent the garment from sticking to the garment and to facilitate hatching.
  • it gives the impression of a well-known classic outer garment and avoids the undesirable impression of casual clothing. Since the outerwear provides increased freedom of movement, the wearer is more likely to sweat. Because of the breathability of the lining fabric, the resulting liquid can be better transported away, while at the same time there is protection against water from the outside.
  • the first material of the lining fabric can have good slip resistance on underwear worn under the outer garment and high crease resistance.
  • the first material may be inelastic.
  • the first material may preferably comprise wash liquor, viscolin, a wear-resistant blended fabric viscose / synthetics, pure synthetics, polyester or feed taffeta.
  • the second regions may comprise the shoulder region.
  • the second areas may include the upper chest area and / or the shoulder blade area.
  • the second regions may comprise the upper region of the front parts in the region of the sleeve extension.
  • the second regions may comprise the upper region of the back parts of the lining material in the region of the sleeve neck.
  • the second regions may comprise an edge around the sleeve neck which extends at least a major part and preferably all the way around the sleeve neck.
  • the edge around the sleeve neck in the back part has a width of at least 4 cm and in the region of the front part a width of at least 3 cm, wherein preferably a continuous transition is formed.
  • the second regions may comprise the elbow regions of the sleeves.
  • the elbow regions in the region of the elbow can have a width of at least 3 cm.
  • the elbow region may extend annularly over the entire circumference of the sleeve, wherein preferably the width in the region of the elbow is greater than the width in the region of the arm bend.
  • the stretch component of the outer fabric may be at least 2% and preferably at least 3%.
  • the outer fabric can have as stretch component an elastane, Lycra and / or natural stretch component.
  • the stretch component of the lining material in the second regions can be at least 2% and preferably at least 3%.
  • an intermediate lining material may be provided between the outer fabric and the lining material.
  • the outer garment may be a blazer, a suit jacket, a ladies blazer, a men's blazer, a business jacket, or part of a formal wear.
  • the invention also relates to a jacket with the above-mentioned features of an outer garment according to the invention.
  • the outerwear piece may in particular be a pair of pants in which the second areas comprise thigh areas of the trouser legs.
  • second regions can be arranged substantially on the front sides of the thigh regions of the trouser legs.
  • the outerwear piece can be in particular a pair of pants which has a stretch waistband.
  • the elastic waistband may have an outer waistband with increased waistband lining and an elastic insert.
  • the outerwear piece can be, in particular, a pair of trousers, which preferably has an elastic waistband, in particular with the abovementioned features, wherein pocket bags with an oblique cut are advantageously provided.
  • the use of an oblique cut has the advantage that the elasticity of the Bundansatznaht is not limited, especially in a Dehnbund. The invention will be described in more detail below with reference to an exemplary embodiment shown in FIGS.
  • Fig. 1 shows a schematic representation of a fabric with the lining turned out jackets according to the invention from the front.
  • Fig. 2 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with the lining fabric facing outward from behind.
  • Fig. 3 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with the outer fabric turned outward from the front.
  • Fig. 4 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig.l with the outer fabric turned outward from behind.
  • Fig. 5 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with turned-out lining material, wherein the elongation in the region of the elbow is shown schematically with arrows, in the event that the wearer an arm angled.
  • Fig. 6 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with turned-out lining fabric, wherein the elongation of the lining material in the region of the shoulder blades is shown schematically with arrows, in the event that the carrier raises the arms.
  • Fig. 7 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with turned out lining material, wherein the elongation of the lining fabric in the region of the shoulder blades is schematically shown with arrows, in the event that the carrier bends down.
  • Fig. 8 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with turned out lining material, wherein the elongation of the lining material is shown in the region of the shoulder blades, in the event that the carrier crosses the arms behind the back.
  • FIG. 9 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of FIG. 1 with the lining material turned outwards, the lining insert being hatched in the shoulder region and the moisture transport being shown schematically from the inside to the outside.
  • Fig. 10 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with outwardly turned outer fabric from the front and a corresponding view from behind, the arrangement of the lining insert in the shoulder area hatched and the water repellency is shown schematically.
  • FIG. 11 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of FIG. 1 with the lining material turned outwards in the unfolded state to explain the position of the lining insert in the shoulder area in the trunk lining.
  • FIGS. 11A to 11H show views corresponding to FIG. 11 for explaining the dimensions of the lining insert in the shoulder area.
  • Fig. 12 shows a schematic representation of the jacket of Fig. 1 with outwardly facing lining material for explaining the dimensions of the lining insert in the elbow region.
  • FIG. 12A is a view corresponding to Fig. 12 for explaining the dimensions of the lining cloth in the area of the upper arm and the forearm.
  • FIG. 13 shows a schematic representation of a trouser according to the invention with outwardly turned lining material for explaining the dimensions of the lining insert in the thigh area.
  • FIG. 14 shows a schematic representation of a trouser according to the invention with a stretch waistband.
  • FIG. 15 shows a schematic perspective view of the schematic production of a trouser according to the invention.
  • Fig. 16 shows pattern for pocket bag a pants according to the invention.
  • Fig. 1 shows a schematic representation of a fabric with the fabric 20 turned outward jacket 1 from the front.
  • Fig. 2 shows the jacket shown in Fig. 1 with outwardly turned lining material from behind.
  • the lining fabric 20 is essentially formed by a lining which is characterized by a smooth surface that slides well on a shirt fabric.
  • Such lining materials are commonly used in men's sakos and ladies blazers and are for example washing wafers and wear-resistant blended fabrics viscose / synthetics with good moisture transport or pure synthetics, in particular 100% polyester.
  • Lining material from one of these lining materials known for classic jackets is arranged in the area of the forearm lining 21A, 21B, the upper arm lining 23A, 23B, the front part lining 26A, 26B and the back part lining 27A, 27B. It is also possible to provide different of these known materials in different areas.
  • an expansion of the jacket, which the lining material 20 must join, occurs during the movement.
  • one respective feed insert elbow lining 22A, 22B, elastic and preferably breathable
  • These lining inserts have a lining material that is elastic and the expansion of the outer fabric 10 of the jacket 1 participates.
  • Corresponding feed inserts are inserted into the lining 20 as shoulder forward lining 24A, 24B, shoulder back lining 25A, 25B. It is particularly preferred to use as the material for the feed inserts sold under the registered trademark 3XDRY ® fabric. So far, 3XDRY ® has not been used as a lining material, but only as an outer fabric, for example for shirts.
  • the inner pockets 29 usually provided in jackets are provided in a manner known to those skilled in the art.
  • Figures 3 and 4 show the jacket shown in Figures 1 and 2 with outwardly turned outer fabric from the front or from behind.
  • the outer fabric 10 has two sleeves which cover the lower arm area IIA, IIB and the upper arm area 13A, 13B.
  • the outer fabric On the front side, the outer fabric has two front parts 16A, 16B with a shoulder front region 14A or 14B, under which lining inserts (shoulder front lining 24A or 24B) are arranged.
  • the outer fabric On the back side, the outer fabric has two back parts 17A, 17B which comprise a shoulder back region 15A or 15B, under which lining inserts (shoulder back lining 25A or 25B) are arranged.
  • a collar 18 of outer fabric 10 At the neckline, a collar 18 of outer fabric 10 is arranged.
  • In the front region pockets 19 are arranged in a manner known to those skilled in the art.
  • Fig. 5 shows the jacket shown in Figures 1 to 4 with outwardly turned lining fabric 20, wherein the resulting during the movement of the elbow elongation of the feed insert in the region of the elbow of the wearer (elbow lining 22A) is schematically illustrated with arrows. If the Bearer of the jacket bent the arm, there is an expansion, which is in the elbow area from outside to inside, ie in the direction of the arm crook less. The length of the arrows schematically illustrates the relative elongation of the liner.
  • the lining in the region of the elbow can accommodate the movement of the wearer and the stretch of the elastic fabric 10 in bending and stretching the elbow ,
  • the lining material 20 no longer brakes the freedom of movement, but the freedom of movement is limited by the elasticity of the outer fabric 10.
  • Fig. 6 shows a schematic representation of the in the figures
  • Fig. 7 shows a view corresponding to Fig. 6 for explaining the movement of the lining insert in the shoulder region, when the carrier bends down. At the same time, the back bulges and the distance of the back width widens.
  • Fig. 8 shows the jacket shown in Figures 1 to 7 with outwardly turned lining fabric 20 for explaining the relative elongation of the lining insert in the shoulder region when the wearer of the jacket with his arms crossed behind his back. This changes the distance of the arm attachment and the breast width.
  • the arrows in the area of the feed inserts indicate the relative size change of the feed inserts.
  • the jacket In the area of the upper body, the jacket is flexible due to the elastic lining inserts and adapts to the movement of the wearer.
  • the lining fabric 20 thus no longer brakes the freedom of movement, but the freedom of movement is limited by the elasticity of the outer fabric 10.
  • FIG. 9 shows a schematic side view of the jacket shown in FIGS. 1 to 8 with the lining material 20 turned outwards, wherein the front sleeve in FIG. 9 is not shown for the sake of clarity, whereas the rear sleeve is shown in dashed line in the hidden area.
  • the shoulder front lining 24A and the shoulder back lining 25A are elastic and preferably also breathable. These two characteristics distinguish the material of the lining inserts from the materials previously known for classic jackets for lining materials.
  • the formation of lining inserts made of elastic and breathable lining has the advantage that the moisture that the body gives off, can be transported away from the body and the jacket inside, especially in the underarm area, remains dry. This results in an increased wearing comfort.
  • FIG. 10 shows schematic representations of the jacket shown in FIGS. 1 to 9 with outwardly turned outer fabric 10 from the front or from behind.
  • the formation of the shoulder front chuck 24A, 24B or shoulder back lining 25A, 25B as a breathable material has the further advantage that the droplets coming from the outside moisture, for example in rain, not directly to the laundry (shirt) of the wearer and thus to the body of the Can reach carrier. Therefore remains The wearer of the jacket at least dry in the shoulder area, which increases the comfort.
  • Fig. 11 shows the jacket shown in Figures 1 to 10 in unfolded form to illustrate the position of the elastic lining insert in the lining fabric 20.
  • the area of the elastic lining insert is shown hatched.
  • the distance A from the collar 18 to the lower edge of the jacket is approximately twice the distance B.
  • the back length of the jacket 1 depends on the model, z. B. for a ladies blazer shorter or for a men's jacket longer, and further dependent on the clothing size.
  • Fig. HA shows preferred minimum dimensions of the elastic lining insert in the shoulder area, which is shown hatched.
  • the dashed lines indicated at A in the shoulder chest area should have a width of at least 3 cm.
  • the designated with dashed lines minimum areas in the shoulder back area should have a minimum width of 4 cm.
  • the elastic lining insert is formed only in the dashed areas.
  • the elastic lining insert is formed around the entire arm assembly. This has the advantage that also the underarm area is covered, where a breathability is desired.
  • Figures HB and HC illustrate the preferred minimum dimensions for the elastic shoulder insert in the area below the arm collar. Below the arm attachment it is preferred to provide an elastic insert with a minimum width (see arrows A) of 4.5 cm. It is possible, To provide lining inserts with larger dimensions. For example, up to 12 cm wide inserts can be provided.
  • Fig. HC partial view of the jacket
  • the value indicated by the arrows B is dependent on the size of the jacket and should preferably not be less than 4.5 cm.
  • the width of the elastic lining inserts in the back part or in the front part should each preferably be at least 5 cm. These preferred minimum widths are indicated by the arrows A and B in FIG.
  • Fig. 12 shows the elastic lining insert in the elbow area (elbow lining 22A).
  • the distance in the elbow area, marked with the arrows A is greater than the dimension of the elastic lining insert in the region of the arm bend, which is marked with the arrows B.
  • the distance in the elbow area, designated A should preferably be at least 3 cm. In the crook of the arm, the dimension indicated by the arrows B may be much smaller.
  • the lining insert is designed as a ring in the sleeve.
  • Fig. 12A illustrates the position of the elastic lining insert in the region of the elbow.
  • the position of the elastic lining insert depends on the size of the jacket and depends on the length B of the lower sleeve portion and the length A of the upper sleeve portion.
  • the Lengths A and B may vary with the model and the size of the jacket.
  • FIG. 13 illustrates the position of elastic lining inserts 122A, 122B in the region of the thigh of a pant 100 according to the invention.
  • the position of the elastic lining inserts 122A, 122B (thigh lining) depends on the size of the pants and depends on the length of the pant legs and the position of the knee area from.
  • the elastic liner inserts 122A, 122B extend just above the knee of the wearer.
  • the elastic liner inserts 122A, 122B are formed in the front chuck area.
  • the lining inserts shown and described in the exemplary embodiments are preferably formed of an elastic and breathable outer material.
  • the elastic waistband 110 has an outer waistband with an elevated waistband lining and an elastic insert.
  • FIG. 15 shows a schematic perspective view of the schematic production of a trouser 100 according to the invention.
  • the intermediate layer is not shown in this figure. It is firmly connected to the outer fabric of the federal government.
  • the pocket pouches and the pocket engagement with the schematically illustrated seam A are first fastened to the waistband approach. Then, the outer collar 111 is sewn on by means of the schematically illustrated seam B. Subsequently, the inner collar 112 is sewn to the waistband edge 113 by means of the schematically illustrated seam D. Finally, the covenant with the seam shown schematically C sewn through.
  • the seams A, B, C and D are executed with chain stitch.
  • Fig. 16 shows pattern pieces 130A, 130B, 130C and 130D, respectively, for pocket bags of a pair of trousers according to the invention.
  • the cut patterns 130A and 130B are for the pocket bag of a front pocket, while the cut patterns 130C and 130D are for the pocket bag of a rear pocket.
  • the respective larger pattern is for the part of the pocket bag which faces the wearer.
  • the arrows indicate the direction of the warp or weft threads of the material.
  • the person skilled in the art recognizes that the pocket bags are cut obliquely. This has the advantage that the elasticity of the collar seam is not restricted.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un vêtement de dessus, en particulier une veste ou un pantalon, comprenant une matière de dessus (10) qui présente un composant extensible, ainsi qu'une matière de doublure (20) qui se trouve sur la face du vêtement de dessus tournée vers le porteur de ce vêtement de dessus. Cette matière de doublure (20) est constitué d'une première matière dans des premières zones (21A, 21B, 23A, 23B, 26A, 26B, 27A, 27B) et d'une seconde matière, différente de la première matière, dans des secondes zones (22A, 22B, 24A, 24B, 25A, 25B).
EP06707182A 2005-02-22 2006-02-22 Vetement de dessus Withdrawn EP1850686A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102005008096A DE102005008096A1 (de) 2005-02-22 2005-02-22 Sakko
PCT/EP2006/001620 WO2006089737A2 (fr) 2005-02-22 2006-02-22 Vetement de dessus

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1850686A2 true EP1850686A2 (fr) 2007-11-07

Family

ID=34609722

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06707182A Withdrawn EP1850686A2 (fr) 2005-02-22 2006-02-22 Vetement de dessus

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1850686A2 (fr)
DE (3) DE102005008096A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2006089737A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014043621A1 (fr) * 2012-09-14 2014-03-20 Abc Global, Llc Costume confortable léger
JP6447994B2 (ja) * 2014-12-22 2019-01-09 公立大学法人 滋賀県立大学 女性用背広上衣

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB447023A (en) * 1934-11-28 1936-05-11 Frank Jones Improvements in or relating to garments
DE2054783A1 (de) * 1970-11-06 1972-05-10 Greiff Werke Gustav Winkler KG Bamberg, 8600 Bamberg Sakko
US4141082A (en) * 1976-10-29 1979-02-27 Toray Textiles Inc. Wash-and-wear coat
US4868928A (en) * 1987-10-21 1989-09-26 W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc. Windproof weather-resistant lined garment material
US5740551A (en) * 1996-06-10 1998-04-21 W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc. Multi-layered barrier glove
DE29815135U1 (de) * 1998-08-24 1999-12-30 Schoeb Gerd Hose mit elastischem Hosenfutter
GB2399277A (en) * 2004-02-25 2004-09-15 Mark Richard Southcott A showerproof or waterproof blazer or suit style jacket

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO2006089737A2 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2006089737A2 (fr) 2006-08-31
WO2006089737A3 (fr) 2007-01-04
DE102005008096A1 (de) 2006-08-24
DE202006020658U1 (de) 2009-05-28
DE202005003978U1 (de) 2005-05-19

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